Climbs 37
Rocktype Limestone

Faces all

The traverse from Split Ends © willbatho

Crag features

Steep limestone trad climbs on variable rock but it is generally sounder than it looks at first sight. Just take care topping out. It can be a suntrap in winter as well as summer and since it has east, west and south facing walls it is easy to follow the sun throughout the day. The fact some climbs are non tidal also helps extend a day out.

November 2014

7 new stakes (marked with orange string) were placed so it should be possible to belay on two stakes in most instances. Some loose rock was also removed and lots of routes checked.

Recommended climbs..

At VS - Saracen and Wings of a Dove (superb but perhaps HVS 4c)

At HVS - Berry Red Wall and Fowler's Dolly Mixture - classic subterranean excursions.

At E1 - Lady of Shame and Chuck Berry. Both are very steep and juggy.

At E2 - La Rage - a pumpy two pitch traverse requiring a proficient second

Man Bites Dog - an old school test piece. Very physical steep crack climbing.

At E3 - Infidelity and Up the Aunty are perfectly acceptable onsight propositions.

At E4 - Foaming at the Mouth (well protected with new threads 2014) and A drop in the Ocean are classic big overhangs.

New route info can be found here

Approach notes

Park as for Berry Head. Walk back along the access road to the car park and take a footpath on the L which soon emerges at the cliff top at a spectacular zawn. Follow it past a stone stile, past Cradle Rock and past a metal gate into the holiday camp on the R. 10 m further on take a path LW's which contours the slope and then curves left down a ridge toward the pinnacle of Durl Rock which is connected to the mainland by a tidal causeway.

Massive rockfall winter 2014/15 has greatly altered the chimney of Pigeon Post. The exit looks exciting.
Kafoozalem - 09/Feb/15
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 North Bay 
2Dooby Ducks Disco Bus
HVS 5b  
3HydrophobicsHVS 5a 4
4Gravity's Angel
E4 5c *1
5Dog Bites BackE1 5b 2
6Split EndsE1 5a *2
7Man bites dogE2 5b *4
8Star TrekkingE4 6a ** 
9La Rage
E2 5b *3
10Chuck Berry
E1 5b 2
11Berry Red WallHVS 5a **2
12Fowler's Dolly MixtureHVS 5a *1
13Lady of ShameE1 5b *17
14Lap it up
E2 5b 3
15Flange Pan
E2 5b  
16Foaming at the mouthE4 5c ***7
 Durl Rock 
18Bath Time
VS 4b 1
19Cot Death
VS 4c *1
20Foetal Attraction
HVS 4c  
21Cradle SnatcherHS 4b *3
22Lullaby BabyS 2
23ChiD 1
 South Bay 
25Pigeon PostHVS 4c  
26Wings of a Dove
VS 4c *3
27Rip Van Winkle
E2 5b 1
28Ripping Yarns
E3 5c 1
29A drop in the ocean
E4 6a ** 
30Pidgin English
E1 5b 1
31Monster MunchE6 6b * 
E1 5b *3
34Up the AuntyE3 5b 6
35InfidelityE3 5c 4
36Cod gives you a stiffy
E1 5b  
37Wheat crunchiesE6 6a * 
VS 4c 1
39Bouncing Babies
HVS 5a 1
40Paper TigerVS 4c 2

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