Climbs 42
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 538m a.s.l
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Stu on Spartan, Highball V1, Back Tor, Derwent Edge. © Stuart Brooks

Crag features

To the north of Dovestone Tor, the flagged path rises steadily up toward the conspicuous trig point on the rocky crest of Back Tor at 538m - a magnificent view point. There is worthwhile scrambling and bouldering all over the summit area, though the recognised routes are on a small west-facing outcrop just to the south. The rock is of good quality though it is green after rain. Also, extensive pools form under the crag, forming a potential SWS spot.

Approach notes

Back Tor is situated high above Ladybower Reservoir. There are two main approaches:

1) Cutthroat Bridge (50 mins walk). Park in the lay-by on the A57 above Cutthroat Bridge, or in the bigger pull-off further up the hill if this is full. From the bridge, pick up one of two paths up to the crest of the moor, where a right turn leads past some good bouldering, to the Tor.

2) Foulstone Delf near the Strines Inn (40 mins walk). Park on the bend opposite the gated track and follow it past the shooting lodge and up to the crest of the ridge, then turn left (south) onto the flagged path which leads to Dovestone Tor, Back Tor is to the right at the junction. WARNING - Both parking areas, especially Foulstone Delf are visited regularly by thieves. Leave nothing in your car.

Note there is no longer any parking at the start of the path just north of Strines. There is space for 4 or 5 cars 1km further north on the right-hand side of the road (Hall Lane, SK 227909).

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Guidebooks

Eastern Grit

Updated and expanded edition of the award-winning Peak Grit East. Covers all the best routes on the eastern Gritstone edges of the Peak District - Wharncliffe, Rivelin, Dovestone Tor, Bamford, Stanage, Burbage North, Higgar Tor, Burbage South, Millstone, Lawrencefield, Yarncliffe, Froggatt, Curbar, Baslow, Gardoms, Birchen, Chatsworth, Cratcliffe, Black Rocks
More info
More Guidebooks:
Burbage, Millstone and Beyond (2005)

Out of print:
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Back Tor summit
-
summit 39
  The Left End
3 Sidewall Scoop V3 7
4 Slanting Arete V4 6a ** 6
5 The Blob V5 6b 4
6 So Many Nipples, So Little Lime f7A 1
7 Sharp Rib V1 5b 3
8 Hoc V5 5b 4
9 Haec HS 4a 4
10 Hic
-
HVD 6
  Back Tor Buttress
12 Mertle VS 5b 7
13 Voice of the Turtle HVS 5b 10
14 Broggin Wall S 4a 46
15 Turtle Rib HVS 5a * 19
16 Turtle Chimney VD 12
Climb name Grade
17 Terrapin HS 4c * 29
18 The Bone Cruncher f7B * 2
19 ET f6A+ 15
20 Hoplite E4 6b * 2
21 Hoplite Start f5+ 5
22 Hueco Wall f6C 10
23 Eyes Without a Face f7A 6
24 Spartan E1 5c * 12
25 Rainbow f6A+ * 1
26 Tortoise HS 5b * 24
27 Hare HS 4b 6
28 Codfinger f6C+ 1
29 Grouse Related Nonsence VS 4c 5
  Back Tor Right-Hand
31 Slab Mantel f4+ 7
32 The Carving f3+ 8
Climb name Grade
33 Universal Squab V5 3
34 Interplanetary Cushat V6 1
35 Better Than A Guppy V5 1
36 The Wave V0+ 2
37 Muffin Top V3 3
38 Muffin Top-Up f6C 1
39 Longer than a Thursday * E1 6b+ *  
  Miles' Problems
41 Small but Big V3 6a 4
42 Small but Wild f7A+ 3
43 The B8 V6 6b 4
44 Back to Front V6 6b 4
  location tbc
46 Back Tor The Future
-
f8A *** 1
47 Back tor entry f6B+ 2
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Graeme Hammond