Climbs 77
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 21m a.s.l
Faces N

The old man and the sea! © tomrainbow

Crag features

 

The deep water soloing (DWS) is excellent and is unrestricted so the season starts whenever you are brave enough.  The venue is less plagued by anglers rubbish than in previous years. Dave Henderson's website provides an excellent miniguide to the DWS here http://www.javu.co.uk/Climbing/Guides/DWS/BerryHeadQuarry/index.shtml

Two new sport routes have recently been added and are definitely the safest and amongst the best routes here.

Most of the trad climbs have been neglected since their first ascents and unless stated, an onsight attempt is not recommended. It is wise to abseil most routes before climbing them since the cliff has an unpleasant tendency to shed huge blocks and the gear placements fill up with soil and grass. Gardening whilst climbing is a particularly dangerous activity here and belayers are advised to stay out of the line of fire. If these warnings haven't put you off you can expect a most excellent adventure.

Paranoid (E1 5B) and  Yellow Rurties (E1 5a) have been recently checked (2014/15) and are ok for onsight attempts by experienced parties.


 


 

Approach notes

From north take A3022 to Brixham. Inside the town limits is an old white toll house - turn R (Monksbridge Rd) and follow signs for Berry Head, all the way to the car park by the Napoleonic Southern Redoubt. Walk along a road towards the cafe and coastguard station then fork left on a metalled road that leads back rightwards down into the quarry.

Access Advice

It is important that climbers wanting to deepwater solo on these crags MUST call Brixham Maritime Rescue Co-ordination Centre before starting. In 2009 climbers have caused a number of false call outs - this creates significant problems for the rescue service and may jepordise future access on the Nature Reserve. Brixham MRCC - (01803) 882 704

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Berry Head is becoming a mecca for deep water soloing, but it is also an important breeding site for many seabirds. Historically, access was completely restricted during breeding but thanks to the efforts of local climbers, the BMC and Torbay Coast and Countryside Trust, the restriction has been made variable. This means it will be lifted as soon as nesting has been completed. The variable restriction has been granted on the condition that the following is adhered to:

1) The Great Cave and pitch 1 of Rainbow Bridge is still covered by the restriction (1st March to 31st July) and NO ACCESS is permitted. This is because the birds frequent the large platform. The standard approach for Rainbow Bridge (and The Great Cave) crosses this platform and will disturb the birds so climbers must choose one of the following options: a) Abseil from the metal post en route to The Great Cave (just beyond a red access notice) to an in-situ thread at the end of pitch 1. b) Down-climb HVS rock just to the left (looking out) of the post. This is not recommended for those who don't know the route.

2) The final Terminal Zawn (pitch 11) is still restricted. A marker just before this shows the extent of the ban. Climbers should exit up VS territory above the marker.

3) Access restrictions still apply to the following: - White Rhino Tea Buttress (Barnacle Traverse Continuation) - The Oz Wall - The Ledges above the Oz wall, beyond the Terminal Zawn. - The Great Cave and Bismark Wall. Markers have been positioned at both ends of the "open" section and these will show whether or not you are allowed on the traverse. This can be checked by contacting the Berry Head Rangers office (01803 882619).

Please contact the ranger if you are confused about cliff accessibility. A few other considerations: If you fall into the sea (during the restricted nesting season) getting out is now much more problematical as you must NOT get out at the Great Cave ledge (doing so would disturb the nesting birds). Those concerned by this should opt to abseil in (see b) - doing this allows you to leave a rope through the in-situ thread at the base of the abseil to facilitate pulling out of the sea....or make the big swim to the ‘ Red Walls’ area.

Guidebooks

Deep Water

Mike Robertson's award winning Deep Water guide, covering DWS on the English South Coast, Pembroke, Scotland and throughout the world.
More info
The climbs are really good but the area needs a fishermen ban! ( the chavvy littering types at least) On a positive note, the area is home to a friendly but massive seal.
francois - 22/Jun/14
The DWS area is absolutely disgusting, litter and stagnant pools everywhere around the fishing areas. Lead by example and take your crap home. Still, the DWS routes are good fun!
Cheese Monkey - 14/Jul/11
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Quality Street V+ 4a ** 28
2 Milky Bar Kid
-
E1 5b 1
3 Back in Town
-
XS 5b  
  Arch Zawn
5 Wavewalker 7a * 13
6 Breathless 7a ** 3
7 Gothic 6c+ ** 8
8 Man in Black 6b+ * 2
9 Arch Zawn Chimney f4 1
10 Sea Worm HS 4b  
11 Stag Party S 4a * 1
12 Stag Party DWS 4c ** 1
13 Death by Jellyfish Variation 5b * 1
14 Death by Jellyfish 5b * 1
15 Rastus E1 5a * 1
16 Rastus (DWS) 5c ** 1
17 Close to the Edge 6a+ *** 2
18 Old Man's Ladder 6a+ *** 2
19 Stannah 6a * 2
20 Jockenese 6b * 2
21 And All Because.. 6a+ ** 11
22 Sunkiss
-
E2 5c 1
23 The Arch Zawn Traverse 6a+ * 25
  The Navigator Pinnacle
25 Crunchie 4a * 45
26 Loftgroover 5a ** 47
27 Pioneering Princess 7a 2
28 Rhythm of the night 7a ** 2
29 Deep House 6a+ * 1
30 Soul to Soul 5c * 2
31 Disco Babes from Outer Space 7a+  
32 Disco Babes from Outer Space Direct 7a+ * 1
33 M.C. Navigator 7a+ ** 11
  The Labyrinth Pinnacle
35 Austin's Left Hand 6a 6
36 Austin's powers 6a+ * 36
37 Brown Paper 6a+ * 8
38 Barefoot and the Hendersons 4a * 27
39 Labyrinth Pinnacle Traverse 6a+ * 44
40 Pigeon Street 6a+ * 6
41 Labyrinth VS 4c ** 10
42 Labyrinth Variation Start 6b+ *  
43 The Dulux Start 6b+ 1
44 Shady Lane 6b+ ** 7
45 T-Minus Ten 6c+ 6
  Main Quarry Face
47 Malteaser
-
HVS 5a  
48 Arncliffe
-
VS 4c 2
49 Graunching Gilbert
-
HVS 4c 1
50 Beggar's Banquet E3 5b 1
51 Equipoise 6c *** 3
52 Equipoise (old trad version) E4 6a *** 3
53 Porpoise
-
E5 6b  
54 Boo-bah Plost
-
HVS 5a 1
55 The Ripples of Power P1 5c 1
56 The Ripples of Power 6c 8
57 Paranoid E1 5b ** 6
58 The Good Boy Tufa Palace (P1) 5a 3
59 The Good Boy Tufa Palace 6b+ ** 8
60 Home Brew
-
HVS 4c 1
61 Helene's Rib E2 5b **  
62 Sunset Boulevard E5 6a ** 1
63 Burning Bridges E3 5c ** 2
64 Desparete E3 5c ** 1
65 Dust Devil
-
E1 5b  
66 Yellow Rurties E1 5a * 8
67 Clean Cut
-
E4 5c 1
68 Dirt Eater
-
E4 6a *  
69 Big Fish in a Little Sea
-
E6 6b ** 1
70 The Distant Dream of a Delinquent Teen
-
E4 6a  
71 Finding Nemo
-
E1 5c  
72 Opus Dei
-
E2 5b *  
  Quarry Bay 2
74 Foos Won't Moos
-
S  
75 Winterlude
-
VS 4c  
76 Salt
-
HS 1
  Quarry Bay 1
78 Semi-detatched
-
HVS 4c 1
79 Big Fun
-
VS 4c  
80 Caius
-
E1 5a 1
81 Butt Munch
-
E1 5a  
82 Freddie Freeloader
-
V0+ 5a 1
83 Hysoscella Sideways 7a * 2

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