Climbs 18
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 341m a.s.l
Faces SE

Crag features

There are two crags in the Barnesmore gap area. The main crag (Biddy's Buttress with 14 climbs) is on the south east of the gap and the landowner has banned climbing and walking at this crag. The other crag (McDaid's Buttress) is on the other side of the road on the north west side of Barnesmore gap with 4 climbs recorded and no reported access restrictions.

Online guide see following link

Approach notes

NOTE: The owner, Mr Charlie McMenamin, has banned climbing (and walking) on Biddy's Buttress since 19/08/07. No known access restrictions for McDaid's Buttress on the other side of Barnesmore Gap.


Biddy's Buttress - South East side of Barnesmore Gap

There is no longer a bridge across the river, it was demolished as part of a road realignment. A Car Park is below the crag. Wade river, wellies usually adequate, then go up hillside.

McDaid's Buttress

This crag lies on the opposite side of Barnesmore Gap to Biddys Buttress. Two routes have been put up on the short but steep SW wall, which has a distinct curving crack in a smooth face. Park at the lay-by as for Biddys Buttress. Cross the road and slog up the steep heather slopes for about 10 mins. A short twin cracked wall lies roughly 400m to the north (right if your looking up at the McDaid's buttress) at roughly the same height. The small crag at the same height facing Ballybofey has yet to be climbed.


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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Biddy's Buttress
2 Hornbi Ridge S 4a * 1
3 Smut Ridge VS 4c  
4 Six-Five Special S 4a 1
5 The Fat Controller VS 4c  
6 Iron Horse VS 4b ** 5
7 Age of Excellence VS 4c *** 6
Climb name Grade
8 Jeppers Sleepers HS 4b 1
9 Head of Steam VS 4c ** 3
10 Locomotion S 4a *  
11 Narrow Gauge Cracks HS 4b  
12 Wee Shunt S 4a  
13 Owengarve Viaduct VS 4b  
14 Donegal Junction VS 4b *  
Climb name Grade
15 Biddy's Beard E1 5b  
  McDaid's Buttress
17 Keema Nan E1 5b *  
18 Road Kill E2 5c ***  
19 Riders in the Storm HVS 5a *  
20 Millennium Falcon VS 4c  

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