Climbs 70
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 321m a.s.l
Faces W

Friction © Phil Ewels

Crag features

Disused limestone quarry, good quality, quick-drying rock. Wide selection of good single-pitch routes (upto 20 metres).

Approach notes

Follow the A494 Mold bypass towards Ruthin as far as the village of Gwernymynedd. Carry on up the hill to the Rainbow garage and turn left immediately before the garage heading towards the Owain Glyndyr pub. Turn right at the pub and carry on for about a quarter of a mile to a bungalow on the right and, 100 metres furether on, a farm on the left. Just after the bungalow there is a dirt track on the right. Park on the side of the road and walk through a gate and up the muddy track passing some farm buildings on the left; through another gate and into a field where the Main wall of the quarry comes into view.

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Clwyd Limestone

This Clwyd Limestone Rockfax covers virtually all of the sport and trad climbing available in and around the Clwydian hills as well as the very best trad and sport climbs at the outlying Pandy Outcrop, Llanymynech Quarry and Pontesford Rocks.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Clwyd Rock (1993)

Out of print:
I live about 5 mins from the crag. The farmers a really nice guy and is normally pottering about outside his house. His dogs friendly too and quite often trots upto the gate with us. I'd agree that its a great place for beginners. Was up there just last week with the missus and it rained as we left home. by the time we'd got there it was dry :-) Plenty of stakes if you want them.
jaswa - 26/Oct/08
Not as nice as it sounds, the rock isn't as fun to climb on as Pothole, but it would still be a good venue for picnicking on a sunny, fresh day.
Fiend - 19/Oct/05
What has happened to 'Rise to the equation E2 5c". I can't find it on these pages.
Julian Wedd - 07/Jun/05
yes there are stakes now there never used to be it was the odd tree and thorne bush when i was a lad!!!
ashaw - 21/Mar/05
Route descriptions for Maeshafn, Devils Gorge and Pot Hole Quarry here:
soph - 21/Mar/05
Very pleasant crag, good for picnics, good routes to.good range of grades
Mirf - 03/Oct/04
Trees to tie on to?? There's loads of (newly-placed?)stakes and good routes.
William - 05/Oct/03
Brilliant crag for beginners: loads of trees at the top to tie off to. However, it\'s a wet grassy slope down to the crag edge - do not forget to tie on.
allan shaw - 26/Mar/02
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 The White Wall 
2Hot Tin RoofE4 6a  
3Pant-y-Gyrdl WallE1 5c 1
4HacoE3 5b 5
5CyclopsE2 5b 1
6Flotta AreteHS 4a 13
7RamaHS 4b 33
8MuslimE1 5a 6
9Running with the WolfE2 5c **31
10PussyfootingE4 5c *9
11White SpringHS 4a 28
12OdysseusHVS 5a 27
13White Wall TraverseE3 5b  
14MaeveE2 5c  
15Wilkinson Sword EdgeVS 4c *25
16The Green WallE4 5c * 
17SitaE2 5c * 
 Main Wall 
19JokerHVD 49
20ThrutchHS 4b 39
21Bumble AreteE1 5b 11
22JoccaE1 5b *26
23Brewing Up With Les WilliamsE4 5c *12
24MoombaE4 6a  
25Inspector GadgetE4 6a 5
26ApexE1 5b 26
27Layback on Me to Bumble Arete TraverseV3 3
28Layback on MeVS 4b *193
29Catfish Rising *VS 5a 2
30RamblerS 4a *321
31Puppy PowerVS 4b **357
32YoboHS 4b *213
33Flying BlockE1 5b *66
34Royal PlumeE2 6a *19
35The MinstrelE1 5b ***249
36Alex's CrackE5 6b *6
37Mathematical WorkoutE3 6a ***55
38Calculus to Flying Block TraverseV3 2
39CalculusE4 5c *22
40The SecretE2 5c *16
41V8 traverseV8 1
42The CornerE1 5b *32
43Cousin ME2 6b 10
44Think a MomentE6 6b 1
45LaxixE5 6a *5
46Knotty ProblemE1 5b *35
47So She DidE3 5c  
48BaraoucheE2 5b 4
49PengrailE1 5b 24
50Main Wall GirdleE3 5c  
51Wandering Puppy *HS 4a **1
 The Amphitheatre 
53Gorilla Waltz
54Blue ChromeHVS 5a 2
55Das BoltE1 5b 1
56The RaspE3 5c  
57ItsuE3 5b  
58VulcerHVS 5a 5
59Ram JamE2 5c 4
61Elephant CrackS 4a 62
62Dandy LionHS 4b 51
63SlingHS 4a *195
64Little Finger JamHVS 5b 67
65The BulgerHVS 5b *73
66Shattered CrackHS 4a **225
67The AreteVS 5a *87
68WandererHS 4b *64
69formidableVS 1
E2 5b *2
72Rise to the Equation
E2 5b  
73Holly Tree Wall
VS 5
74YellowE1 5b *1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Mark Riley