Climbs 72
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 321m a.s.l
Faces W

Friction © Phil Ewels

Crag features

Disused limestone quarry, good quality, quick-drying rock. Wide selection of good single-pitch routes (upto 20 metres).

Approach notes

Follow the A494 Mold bypass towards Ruthin as far as the village of Gwernymynedd. Carry on up the hill to the Rainbow garage and turn left immediately before the garage heading towards the Owain Glyndyr pub. Turn right at the pub and carry on for about a quarter of a mile to a bungalow on the right and, 100 metres furether on, a farm on the left. Just after the bungalow there is a dirt track on the right. Park on the side of the road and walk through a gate and up the muddy track passing some farm buildings on the left; through another gate and into a field where the Main wall of the quarry comes into view.

Rockfax App

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Guidebooks

Clwyd Limestone

This Clwyd Limestone Rockfax covers virtually all of the sport and trad climbing available in and around the Clwydian hills as well as the very best trad and sport climbs at the outlying Pandy Outcrop, Llanymynech Quarry and Pontesford Rocks.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Clwyd Rock (1993)

Out of print:
I live about 5 mins from the crag. The farmers a really nice guy and is normally pottering about outside his house. His dogs friendly too and quite often trots upto the gate with us. I'd agree that its a great place for beginners. Was up there just last week with the missus and it rained as we left home. by the time we'd got there it was dry :-) Plenty of stakes if you want them.
jaswa - 26/Oct/08
Not as nice as it sounds, the rock isn't as fun to climb on as Pothole, but it would still be a good venue for picnicking on a sunny, fresh day.
Fiend - 19/Oct/05
What has happened to 'Rise to the equation E2 5c". I can't find it on these pages.
Julian Wedd - 07/Jun/05
yes there are stakes now there never used to be it was the odd tree and thorne bush when i was a lad!!!
ashaw - 21/Mar/05
Route descriptions for Maeshafn, Devils Gorge and Pot Hole Quarry here: http://www.loggerheads.biz/climb1.htm
soph - 21/Mar/05
Very pleasant crag, good for picnics, good routes to.good range of grades
Mirf - 03/Oct/04
Trees to tie on to?? There's loads of (newly-placed?)stakes and good routes.
William - 05/Oct/03
Brilliant crag for beginners: loads of trees at the top to tie off to. However, it\'s a wet grassy slope down to the crag edge - do not forget to tie on.
allan shaw - 26/Mar/02
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  The White Wall
2 Hot Tin Roof E4 6a  
3 Pant-y-Gyrdl Wall E1 5c 1
4 Haco E3 5b 5
5 Cyclops E2 5b 1
6 Flotta Arete HS 4a 14
7 Rama HS 4b 34
8 Muslim E1 5a 6
9 Running with the Wolf E2 5c ** 29
10 Pussyfooting E4 5c * 9
11 White Spring HS 4a 32
12 Odysseus HVS 5a 30
13 White Wall Traverse E3 5b  
14 Maeve E2 5c  
15 Wilkinson Sword Edge VS 4c * 28
16 The Green Wall E4 5c *  
17 Sita E2 5c *  
  Main Wall
19 Joker HVD 51
20 Thrutch HS 4b 42
21 Bumble Arete E1 5b 11
22 Jocca E1 5b * 28
23 Brewing Up With Les Williams E4 5c * 12
24 Moomba E4 6a  
25 Inspector Gadget E4 6a 5
26 Apex E1 5b 27
27 Layback on Me to Bumble Arete Traverse V3 5c 3
28 Layback on Me VS 4b * 202
29 Catfish Rising * VS 5a 2
30 Rambler S 4a * 335
31 Puppy Power VS 4b ** 370
32 Yobo HS 4b * 222
33 Flying Block E1 5b * 71
34 Royal Plume E2 6a * 19
35 The Minstrel E1 5b *** 259
36 Alex's Crack E5 6b * 6
37 Mathematical Workout E3 6a *** 60
38 Calculus to Flying Block Traverse V3 2
39 Calculus E4 5c * 24
40 The Secret E2 5c * 19
41 V8 traverse V8 1
42 The Corner E1 5b * 32
43 Cousin M E2 6b 10
44 Think a Moment E6 6b 1
45 Laxix E5 6a * 5
46 Knotty Problem E1 5b * 37
47 So She Did E3 5c  
48 Baraouche E2 5b 4
49 Pengrail E1 5b 26
50 Main Wall Girdle E3 5c  
51 Wandering Puppy * HS 4a ** 1
  The Amphitheatre
53 Gorilla Waltz
-
HVS 1
54 Blue Chrome HVS 5a 2
55 Das Bolt E1 5b 1
56 The Rasp E3 5c  
57 Itsu E3 5b  
58 Vulcer HVS 5a 5
59 Ram Jam E2 5c 4
60 HIDING IN THERE. E4 6a  
61 Elephant Crack S 4a 67
62 Dandy Lion HS 4b 56
63 Sling HS 4a * 206
64 Little Finger Jam HVS 5b 70
65 The Bulger HVS 5b * 82
66 Shattered Crack HS 4a ** 236
67 The Arete VS 5a * 92
68 Wanderer HS 4b * 67
69 formidable VS 1
70 slip HS  
71 Barouche
-
E2 5b * 2
72 Rise to the Equation
-
E2 5b  
73 Holly Tree Wall
-
VS 5
74 Yellow E1 5b * 1
75 Thunder and Lightning * HS 4a  
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Mark Riley