Disused limestone quarry, good quality, quick-drying rock. Wide selection of good single-pitch routes (upto 20 metres).
Follow the A494 Mold bypass towards Ruthin as far as the village of Gwernymynedd. Carry on up the hill to the Rainbow garage and turn left immediately before the garage heading towards the Owain Glyndyr pub. Turn right at the pub and carry on for about a quarter of a mile to a bungalow on the right and, 100 metres furether on, a farm on the left. Just after the bungalow there is a dirt track on the right. Park on the side of the road and walk through a gate and up the muddy track passing some farm buildings on the left; through another gate and into a field where the Main wall of the quarry comes into view.
The crag lies on private land with no public right of access beyond the approach path whcih is a public right of way, however following recent work between the landowner and the BMC - the access ban has now been lifted. But it is imperative that permission is obtained from the land owners at the cottage before the access path and that all gates are kept shut and dogs are under very close control (i.e. kept on a short lead).
Last update: 19/05/2016
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This Clwyd Limestone Rockfax covers virtually all of the sport and trad climbing available in and around the Clwydian hills as well as the very best trad and sport climbs at the outlying Pandy Outcrop, Llanymynech Quarry and Pontesford Rocks.
I live about 5 mins from the crag. The farmers a really nice guy and is normally pottering about outside his house. His dogs friendly too and quite often trots upto the gate with us. I'd agree that its a great place for beginners. Was up there just last week with the missus and it rained as we left home. by the time we'd got there it was dry :-) Plenty of stakes if you want them. jaswa - 26/Oct/08
Not as nice as it sounds, the rock isn't as fun to climb on as Pothole, but it would still be a good venue for picnicking on a sunny, fresh day. Fiend - 19/Oct/05
What has happened to 'Rise to the equation E2 5c".
I can't find it on these pages.
Julian Wedd - 07/Jun/05
yes there are stakes now there never used to be it was the odd tree and thorne bush when i was a lad!!! ashaw - 21/Mar/05
Route descriptions for Maeshafn, Devils Gorge and Pot Hole Quarry here:
http://www.loggerheads.biz/climb1.htm soph - 21/Mar/05
Very pleasant crag, good for picnics, good routes to.good range of grades Mirf - 03/Oct/04
Trees to tie on to?? There's loads of (newly-placed?)stakes and good routes. William - 05/Oct/03
Brilliant crag for beginners: loads of trees at the top to tie off to. However, it\'s a wet grassy slope down to the crag edge - do not forget to tie on. allan shaw - 26/Mar/02