Climbs 52
Rocktype Limestone

Faces SE

SO YOU THINK YOU REALLY CAN BAN ME YOU FUCKERS. DREAM ON! © Mark Davis

Crag features

Slabby climbing on variable quality rock. Single pitch routes to 50 metres. Protection generally reasonable; some pegs and bolts.

Approach notes

Quarry situated approx one mile west of Portishead. Follow B3124 westwards past some houses at a bend in the road. Do not park at the head of the gated entrance lane opposite; there is a layby 250m further up the road on the LHS. Keep the noise down as to not annoy the locals.

Update From BMC Website: (27/03/07) - Avon Wildlife Trust have now reopened the quarry following the scaling of loose rock in partnership with the BMC. The project involved removing a significant amount of loose rock around the large slab, resulting in some superficial marking to the slab - this should decrease in time.

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Guidebooks

West Country Climbs

West Country Climbs is a major Rockfax guide to one of the UK’s most celebrated, sunny and diverse climbing regions. The book is fashioned in Rockfax’s award-winning layout and design, and copiously illustrated with action photographs of the climbs and cliffs that reflect the quality and variety of climbing experiences to be had on offer in the UK’s most popular holiday destination - the West Country. This is a selected route and buttress guidebook which covers the best 900 routes from the crags listed below.
More info
More Guidebooks:
South West Climbs - Volume 1 (2012)
Avon and Cheddar (2004)

Out of print:
Microwave size block came off corner 'one rainy wish' to the left of the slab whilst I was climbing it. Looks like there's more loose rocks on the route
Zolly Whitaker - 10/Nov/14
Lots of very large break away rock on the small bolted wall.
Dan1898 - 20/Apr/14
It's actually just off the B3124 (not B3134 as the guide says). There is also now a rock netting at the top of the main slab which gives a good belay stance and anchor points (as well as protection from falling rocks :-))
wilsers - 09/Mar/14
Climbed here Jun 2011 Not as 'uninspiring' as I was expecting. Bit of a suntrap on the slab.
climbojimbo - 08/Jun/11
Climbed in late summer 2009, fence pole's up around area but no fence in place, may change in future. uninspiring but if your in the area why not?
puzo - 20/Jan/10
Been climbing here late 2007 and early 2008, no access problems. BMC website states site re-opened.
SteveCox - 09/May/08
The routes on the main slab are all still climbable (from BoS to Pharos). Not much change at all except less polish.
thomasadixon - 03/Jun/07
Looks like that official looking bloke has put in boulder catching nets. Nice big bolts holding it in. :P Looks like they have put in new bolts at the top of some of the easier climbs. Some of the rock still looks pretty unstable thou. Climb it and see...
srees2108 - 19/Mar/07
ARSE!
Queequeg - 01/Feb/07
RIP Portishead quarry! Looks like over the weekend there has been a HUGE landslide and alot of the rock has fallen in. Havn't had a close look as there was an official looking bloke climbing it and the were new padlocks on the metal gates, but as you can see from the photo alot of rock has fallen.
srees2108 - 30/Jan/07
There are big gates up but you can walk around them, just not ride a motorbike around them. We had no problems climbing there.
thomasadixon - 25/Aug/06
The quarry is closed at the moment by the management (can't remember the name). The reason given being disturbance by local lads on motorbikes. The sign muttered something about loose rock too in order to curtail climbers usage, but the fact of the quarry's looseness is well known (especially the Sharks Fin etc). Anyway, right or wrong we couldn't see why the behaviour of lads on motorbikes should reflect on climbers so we went in and got no trouble. A few of the locals saw us and didn't seem to mind. The sign also states that the BMC have been informed of the situation.
majormajormajormajor - 30/Jun/06
Routes left of the main slab = death. Sort of. Very loose anyway, much pulling of blocks onto each other.
Tamlyn - 17/Jan/06
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Drummers of Burundi 6c 65
2 Digit Pizzicato 6c+ 67
3 A Little Light Music 7b+ * 6
4 Photon
-
E1 5a 4
5 Zee Zee Top
-
E2 5b 1
6 Ballista
-
S 2
7 Mr Prickle
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VS 4b 4
8 Baby Bird
-
VS 4c 7
9 Bladder Ladder 7b * 10
10 Token Gesture E4 6a 13
11 More Please
-
E4 6a 1
12 No More Please
-
E5 6c 1
13 Exfo '92 7c+ * 2
14 Luring labia
-
E4 6a 2
15 L'Homme Absurd
-
7b+ 1
16 A Route for the People
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7a+ 4
17 Highway One E4 6a *** 110
18 Agenda 21
-
7b+ 1
19 Biggerballs
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E4 6b 1
20 Eartheye Corner
-
HS 4a 9
21 Split Personality
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HS 4a 1
22 Fallen Pillar Chimney
-
S 4a 22
23 Great White
-
E1 5b 4
24 One Rainy Wish
-
HS 4a * 130
25 Aphrodite E1 5c 5
26 The Brink of Solarity HVS 5a ** 728
27 Solus E3 5b/c 38
28 Sandbagging Simon E2 5b 59
29 Pickpocket HVS 5a ** 682
30 Approaching Maturity E2 5b * 328
31 The Baldest HVS 5a * 519
32 Pharos HS 4b * 860
33 The Arete
-
VD 215
34 Finesse
-
S 56
35 Retina Plexus
-
VS 4b 22
36 Central Pillar
-
VD 6
37 Panache
-
D 38
38 Bombast
-
S 30
39 Reggae in the Grass E2 5b 20
40 Heavy Cloud;Lots of Rain 6a+ 143
41 Stod MVS 4b 9
42 Small Minded; Long Winded 6a+ 50
43 Sugar Tip's 7a+ 28
44 Earth Eye Corner *
-
HS  
45 Mystery 7c Route *
-
7c * 4
46 Mystery 7a+ Route *
-
7a+ * 4
47 Mystery 6b Route *
-
6b * 4
48 Unknown * 7a+ 2
49 Another mystery 7a+ * 7a+ * 1
50 BTS *
-
6b+ * 1
51 Pubic Enemy number one *
-
E3 6a 3
52 Coalition *
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E2 5b  
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Paul Robertson