Climbs 68
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 150m a.s.l
Faces W

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Luke Owens - Green Bean - 6b+ © Luke Owens

Crag features

Two tiers of generally sound quality limestone, averaging about 10m in height.

For Quarry Wall:
Its situated on the right-hand side of the road if you approach from ruthin and is a couple of hundred yards from the pwll glas sign at the beginning of the village. The crag although one of the most roadside venues in the area does require a 10 min walk due to where you need to park. this should be either the large laybe on the left handside in the village itself or just the otherside of the bridge which leads to Llanfair dc.

Approach notes

Take the A494 from Ruthin south towards Bala for about 3 miles until you reach Pwllglas at a large lay-by on the left hand side. Park here and walk back towards Ruthin for about 100m to a turning on

the right. Follow this lane, passing a renovated mill, over an old railway bridge and past several houses until the road ends and a public footpath crosses the road, take the footpath on the right. When the footpath forks, take the path on the right until the escarpment can be seen on the left.

Please do not drive the car up the road, as parking there will cause annoyance to the owners of the houses, and thus potentially cause access problems.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

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Guidebooks

Clwyd Limestone

This Clwyd Limestone Rockfax covers virtually all of the sport and trad climbing available in and around the Clwydian hills as well as the very best trad and sport climbs at the outlying Pandy Outcrop, Llanymynech Quarry and Pontesford Rocks.
More info
More Guidebooks:
North Wales Bouldering (2017)
Clwyd Rock (1993)

Out of print:
Topo for bouldering at Butterfly wall can be found here... http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=550
Mark Riley - 25/Jan/12
Checked out the new bouldering with Mill today. Quality rock and problems. Psyched for getting back!
Luke Owens - 23/Jan/12
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Beast Wall
2 Beastie Boys 7a * 4
3 The Bloopers and Production No No's 8a * 2
4 The Wee Beastie 7c * 3
5 Green Bean 6b+ * 16
6 The Route VS 4c 1
7 The Rock Animal Leaves His Mark
-
E1 5b  
  Middle Wall
9 CCR 7a ** 16
10 Old Gunk's Grandad's Pastime 6c+ * 12
11 Runner Bean 6c+ ** 6
12 Summertime Blues 7a ** 7
13 Eating Words 6c+ ** 8
14 Smooth Wall Left 5c  
15 Smooth Wall Right 6a 1
16 Mind the Brambles HS 4b 2
17 2nd Line Of Bolts From The Left 6a+ 2
  Peg Wall
19 Ego Maniac HVS 5a 3
20 Return to the Trees E1 5b 1
21 Deuce Coupe E1 5b 1
22 The Nerd E1 5b * 1
  Butterfly Buttress
24 Vlinder 3c  
25 Papillon 5c  
26 Mariposa 6a  
Climb name Grade
27 Farfalla 6a  
28 Fritillary Flake 6c 20
29 The Butterfly Collector 7b ** 20
30 Float Like A Butterfly 7a ** 13
31 Sting Like a Bee 7c * 5
32 Metamorphosis 6b 23
33 Metamorphosis Direct 6b 5
34 Chrysalis 6c+ * 11
  Butterfly Buttress Bouldering
36 Three flappers f6C 7
37 Clocks Go Back sds f7A 4
38 Penniless sds f6C 4
39 6C sds f6C 5
40 Pity the Billionaire (Pre-Shelf Colapse) f6C 9
41 Pity the Billionaire f6C ** 3
42 Pity the Billionaire SDS f7A ** 7
43 Pity the Billionaire RH f6C * 6
44 Billionaires Bulge f7A  
45 Si's Bulge
-
f6C 1
46 Lead Rain f7B **  
47 Another Million f7A+ 4
48 Lickin' the Lollipop f6B 12
49 Lickin' the Lollipop sds f7A 1
50 Hobby's Start to TBC sds f7A 1
51 Hobby's Start to FF sds f6C 2
52 Andy's Start to FF sds f7A 2
Climb name Grade
53 Cassius Clay SDS f7A+ 3
54 One in a Million pt1 (The Cassius Clay low punch) f7B 1
55 Fritillary Flake f6A+ 23
56 The Butterfly Collector f6B 25
57 Simon's Start to The Butterfly Collector f7A 13
58 Simon's Start to FF sds f7A 7
59 One in a Million pt1 sds - trav f7B  
60 One in a Million to Lollipop f7A 1
61 Thriller in Manilla sds f6C 14
62 Rumble in the Jungle sds f6B+ 12
63 Sting like a Butterfly f7A+ 1
64 FF sit * f6C ** 1
65 TBC sit * f6C+ ** 1
  Lost Wall
67 Lost Cause 6c+ * 4
68 Lost Arrow 6b+ * 5
69 Lost Innocence 6c * 3
70 Lost Boys 6b+ ** 10
  QUARRY WALL
72 Fraxinus Excelsior 7c  
73 Apple Crumble 7b  
74 21 steps to Pigeon Street 6b *  
75 Catch the Pigeon 6a * 1
  Routes Added from Rockfax Book
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Luke Owens