UKC

Climbs 8
Rocktype Limestone

Faces E

Traverse of Doom © na1

Crag features

The Cove is a small tidal cove with walls, caves, prows of limestone of variable quality, during nice weather it is commonly used for bouldering, picnicing, slacklining and generally lacking about.  In the last ten years, and not without some local controversy, it has been discreetly developed as a dry tooling bouldering venue.  

The rock is limestone with an abundance of pockets, varying in height up to 8m however the quality of rock detoriates with height.  There are several factors affecting climbing here; conditions, tide, weather and the height of the shingle. 

When dry and the shingle is low the bouldering is simply superb on vertical, overhanging or horizontal perfect limestone.  Unfortunatly, dry conditions are rare, requiring low tide, calm sea, off shore breeze and dry air. 

The rest of the time dry tooling wearing rock shoes or fruit boots has become more popular.
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Approach notes

Find the Grotto Pub on the Marsden seafront and head north towards South Shields. Where the houses on the left come closest to the road, park just short of the bus stop on the parking lane alongside the wide expanse of grass (The Leas). Head straight down to the coast. If you find a clifftop steel barrier fence, follow it to its northern end. The cove in question is the next one along after the fence ends. There is a concrete strip hiding a pipe running down the small headland that marks the south edge of The Cove.

The routes are described facing out to sea.

Guidebooks

There are a few more offerings on the next cove along - north. (North Cove) in particular - the detatched undercut block on the left
mark237 - 28/Aug/09
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Right Wall
2 Full Barrel Traverse M10 *** 1
  Prow
4 The Rite Arete f3+ 7
Climb name Grade
5 Prow Arete f2+ * 9
6 The Scoop f2 10
7 Traverse of doom M9 ** 5
8 The Prow M10 2
Climb name Grade
9 The Prow super low M11+ ***  
  Left Wall
11 The Easy Traverse M9 ** 3

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