Climbs 105
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 390m a.s.l
Faces W

Crag features

The huge rampart of Craig Arthur looms impressively over the upper end of the Eglwyseg Valley. At around 40m it is by far the tallest of all the cliffs along the escarpment. The quality and length of the routes - both trad and sport - makes it a crag of national importance, with a number being multi-pitch offerings, adding a welcome dimension to the area that is otherwise dominated by shorter single-pitch climbs. The crag is mostly vertical but frequently crossed by horizontal bands of overhangs, especially in its upper reaches, making for some very exciting finishes. The rock is mainly composed of good-quality weathered white and grey sheets, seamed with some strong crack and flake lines. Some of the less frequented lines still have loose sections and can be a little vegetated. The crag's location is both spectacular and beautiful with expansive views above a base clear of vegetation. Its scree slope shelves away steeply making the exposure felt from the first moves on most routes. Many of the routes, both trad and sport, rely on fixed protection from pegs, threads and bolts although a full rack and double ropes are also required for the trad lines. A clip-stick may be useful as a number of the initial bolts on the sport climbs are fairly high.

Approach notes

Park carefully, and approach as for World's End and walk a further 50m down the road from the ford to a closed gate and a stile on the left side of the road; this marks the Offa's Dyke Pathway. Follow the paththrough the large pineforest and exit from it. Continue by following the trail alongside a rickety old fence, until after about 10 minutes, the corner of a large pine forestis reached, and the edge of Craig Arthur comes into view on the left on the hillside above. Follow the path up the scree slope to the left end of the crag. Please note that the cliffs are off bounds for long periods over the spring-summer for rare nesting birds.
There is no car by the footpath as mentioned in the Clwyd Rock guide book. The only close carpark is the one mentioned above used for Worlds end.

Access Advice

The whole Eglwyseg escarpment is both a Site Of Special Scientific Interest and an European designated Special Area Of Conservation. This means that any deliberate or reckless damage or disturbance to the features of the site (inc. to nesting birds, vegetation clearance or drilling) could be regarded as a criminal act.

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 15 February to 14 May

Reason: Nesting Birds

2017 -  applies from the route  "Black & Blue"  to the far south side of the crag ("Freshly Dug") inclusive - all routes between and including these routes are restricted from Feb 15th until July 31st. Look out for marker posts on the cliff base to confirm the restrictions.   All routes on the right hand side of Nemesis wall sector and all of Dawn Buttress sector are affected by this restriction.

Update May 15th 2017 - it appears that the  birds have failed to nest this year and the restriction has been lifted early.

 

 

 

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

Clwyd Limestone

This Clwyd Limestone Rockfax covers virtually all of the sport and trad climbing available in and around the Clwydian hills as well as the very best trad and sport climbs at the outlying Pandy Outcrop, Llanymynech Quarry and Pontesford Rocks.
More info
More Guidebooks:
www.sportsclimbs.co.uk (1995)
Clwyd Rock (1993)

Out of print:
All climbs now updated and arranged in order. A brilliant crag and a highlight of the Eglwyseg Valley.
Luke Owens - 09/Jun/12
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  La Chacal Area
2 Arthur's Pillar VS 4c 1
3 Kitten's Paws 6c+ 1
4 Monkeys Claws E3 5c  
5 Was it Stew 6c+ *  
6 The Fall and Decline E3 5c ** 13
7 Le Chacal E3 5c * 21
8 Front of House 7a ** 4
9 A Touch of Class E2 5b ** 13
10 Back Yard Holiday 6c+ * 4
11 Swelling Itching Brain 7b+ *  
12 One Continuous Picnic 7b ** 1
13 Three Dimensions E2 5b ** 12
14 Sugar Sweet 6c+ 2
15 Mon Miel 6c 1
16 A Bitter Pill 6b+ * 19
17 A Cunning Plan 6b+ * 26
18 The Marsh Flower 7a * 2
  Manikins of Horror Area
20 Legacy E1 5b 2
21 Stratagem E2 5b * 4
22 Manikins of Horror E3 5c *** 59
23 Swlabr Link E3 6a *  
24 Masquerade 7b+ ** 2
25 Dance of the Puppets 7b ** 10
26 Hand In Glove 7a * 3
27 Swlabr HVS 5b 3
  Digitron Area
29 Rubs and Tugs 7c *  
30 Eliminator E4 6b *** 2
31 Pi 8a ***  
32 California Highway Patrol 7c ** 1
33 Tito E2 5b * 18
34 About Time 7b ** 1
35 Pour Lulubelle E3 5c ** 4
36 Digitron E2 5c *** 156
37 Heaven or Hell E5 6b *** 1
  Ten Area
39 Beta Beware 6c+  
40 Omegod 6c+  
41 Alpha Track Etch 7b ** 3
42 Delta Force 6c+ ** 10
43 Badge E2 5c  
44 Keeping Secrets E5 6c *  
45 Walls have Ears 7b+ *  
46 Scary Fairy E3 6a *  
47 Ten 7b+ ** 4
48 Suite XV1 7a+ *  
49 Jungle Warfare HVS 5a  
50 When I was a Viking 6b 2
51 Ravenous 6b  
  Survival of the Fastest Area
53 Charlain E1 5b * 24
54 Now and Then E2 5c * 7
55 Charlotte's Web 6a+ 10
56 Crocodile Shoes 6b+ * 9
57 Dead Man's Creek 6c * 14
58 Punch and Judy E5 6b ** 10
59 Full Mental Jacket E5 6c **  
60 Survival of the Fastest E5 6a *** 28
61 Survival of the Fattest E5 6b * 1
62 Protect and Survive E6 6b ***  
63 Revival of the Latest 7a+ *  
  Nemesis Wall
65 Friday the Thirteenth E5 6a * 3
66 Oblivion (Pre Nov 2013) 7b *** 2
67 Oblivion E6 6b **  
68 Manic Mechanic E6 6b *** 1
69 Relentless 7b+ *** 7
70 Smokin' Gun E6 6c *** 1
71 Shootin' Blanks E6 6c ***  
72 Tres Hombres E6 6b ***  
73 Mercury Rising 7b+ *** 1
74 Steppin' Razor E5 6b *  
75 Marie Antoinette E5 6b *  
76 The Big Plop E3 6a  
77 Black and Blue 7b **  
  Rubberbandman Area
79 The Hoax HVS 5a  
80 Voie de Bart E4 6b  
81 Rubberbandman 7b * 2
82 Under My Thumb 6c+ * 21
83 Cold Finger E1 5a  
84 Chopper Squad E2 5b  
85 Accidents Will Happen E1 5c 1
86 Octopus HVS 4c  
87 Tranche de Vie 6a+ * 8
88 Finger Press 6c  
89 Thumbs Down 6c+ * 1
90 Let's See Those Fingers 6c * 4
91 All Fingers and Thumbs 6c * 4
92 Thumb Print 6a * 8
  Sunnyside Area
94 Scrapyard Things E1 5a  
95 Uncrossed 7a  
96 Those Stumbling Words 7a 6
97 Double Crossbones E3 5c * 2
98 Double Crossbones direct
-
E3 5c 2
99 Delaware Slide E4 6a ** 4
100 These Foolish Things 7a+ *** 47
101 Gates of the Golden Dawn E5 6b ** 2
102 The Deadly Trap E3 5c  
103 Sunny Side Up Mix 7b *** 19
104 Black Poppies 7b+ ** 1
105 Chilean Moon 7b *  
106 Acapella E5 6b 1
107 Acapulco 7a+ * 2
108 Chills of Apprehension E4 6a 1
109 Jam Spread 6b+ 1
110 Lemon Kerred E3 6b 1
111 Freshly Dug 6a 3
112 Craig Arthur Girdle E2 5c ***  

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Luke Owens