Climbs 200
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 336m a.s.l

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what's goin'on 7a © jolly

Crag features

A magnificent group of crags offering the visitor a great variety of climbing in all grades. Wall climbing, jamming cracks sport routes, lunatic fringe routes, and even some aid can all be had here.

Approach notes

Proceed along the Eglwyseg Valley road, as for World's End Crag, until a turning, signposted 'Panorama', appears on your right. Follow the roadaround to your left, and after about 600m you will come to a large layby on the right near a track, where you park. Walk down the road to the gate and follow the drive up to where it crosses a river bed. From this poind you can see the North Buttress high on the left skyline, the South Buttress directly in front, and towering above on the right, Monks Buttress.

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Guidebooks

Clwyd Limestone

This Clwyd Limestone Rockfax covers virtually all of the sport and trad climbing available in and around the Clwydian hills as well as the very best trad and sport climbs at the outlying Pandy Outcrop, Llanymynech Quarry and Pontesford Rocks.
More info
More Guidebooks:
www.sportsclimbs.co.uk (1995)
Clwyd Rock (1993)

Out of print:
All area's updated and climbs now in order.
Luke Owens - 25/Jul/12
Seems a pretty good crag with plenty of variety. The Soho area is rather pleasant, further along things get more dramatic and the path probably warrants an E-grade...
Fiend - 19/Oct/05
Bit loose on North wall its like being under fire their is that much rock coming down from your partner
ashaw - 16/Aug/04
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Descent Area
2 Undercurrent E2 5c  
3 Smouldering Bouldering E3 6a  
4 Ye Old Cod Piece E3 5c  
5 Sweet Satisfaction HS 4b 1
6 Flighting HVS 5a  
7 Sayfari VD 7
8 Fingernail HVS 5a * 1
9 One Carlos E5 6b  
10 Franco HVS 5a  
11 Alden * S 4a  
  Sentinel Area
13 Tweak E1 5b  
14 Stoned Roman E1 5b  
15 Et Tu Brutus 6b+ * 4
16 Whilst Rome Burns 7a * 5
17 A Stab In The Back 7b *  
18 U Got Me Bugged 7a+ * 1
19 Bug Off 7b *  
20 Serengetti 7a *  
21 Lurking in the Long Grass 7a+ ** 1
22 Rays and Hail 7b+ *  
23 Ray of Hope 6c+ *  
24 Bennetto HS 4b 5
25 Sentinel E2 5c ** 25
26 The Cycle Path 7b **  
27 Freeway Madness E4 5c * 4
28 Highway Hysteria HVS 5a  
29 Soft Shoulder 6a * 6
30 Buffoon VS 4c  
31 Hard Shoulder 7b 1
32 Polytextured Finish 6c+ 2
33 Bold Poly VS 4b 11
34 Sometimes Yes, Sometimes No E3 6a *  
35 A Dose of Barley Fever 6c+ * 6
36 Slippery Caramel 7a+ *  
37 Just a Treat 6a+ 4
38 Nesting Crack HVS 5a  
39 Monumental HS 4b 5
  Kinberg Area
41 The Burger King E3 6a *  
42 Kinberg VS 4c *** 167
43 Atlantic Traveller VS 4c ** 52
44 Osteophyte E5 6a **  
45 Bone Orchard E3 5c * 3
46 Unknown Feelings E2 5b ** 35
47 A Spaceman in the Whitehouse E4 6a 1
48 Space Ace E3 5c ** 8
49 Mitsuki Groove HVS 5a * 34
50 Non Stop E1 5c * 4
51 Smokey Bear E2 5b 3
52 Physical Transaction 7a  
53 Freely Slapping Upwards 7b  
54 Out of the Fire, Into the Furnace 7b  
55 Prickly Heat 7a ** 2
56 Pictures of Living E4 6a *  
57 Mr Wobbler E3 6a  
58 Dying Tonight 7a+ *  
59 Slap and Tickle 7a+ * 2
60 Wibbly Wobbly World 6c * 6
  Atmospheres Area
62 Funky Monkey Pie 7c+ *  
63 Killer Gorilla 7a+ ** 9
64 Killer Gorilla - Free
-
7c+ **  
65 Planet Claire 7b *** 2
66 Atmospheres 7a *** 28
67 Atmospheres - Free 7c ***  
68 Private Idaho 7c ** 5
69 Generation of Swine 7b+ *** 2
70 Brain Box 7b+ **  
Climb name Grade
71 Aphrodizziness 7a * 3
72 Oxygen E3 6a ** 1
  Mental Transition Area
74 Eddie Waring Lives On 6c+ * 3
75 Demolition Man E4 6b *  
76 Mental Transition E4 6b *** 11
77 Through the Grapevine 7b ** 5
78 What's Goin' On 7a ** 23
79 Mercy Mercy Me 6b+ * 4
80 The Sinking, Shrinking, Shrimp E2 5c * 4
81 Spastic Spider E2 5c * 2
82 Spastic Spider Direct E2 6a  
83 Shy of Coconuts 7a *  
84 Candy 7b * 2
85 Lickin' Lollipops 7b * 9
  King of Fools Area
87 Condessa HVS 5a 1
88 Friction Factor E2 6a * 4
89 Fraction Fictor 7a  
90 Hard Fought E2 5b 1
91 Last Fandango E1 5b * 13
92 Wafer Way VS 4c * 18
93 Shasavaan E1 5b  
94 Foolish Pride E4 6b  
95 King of Fools E3 6a *  
96 Mainstay E3 6a * 1
97 Basket Case E3 6a  
98 Stress Test E4 6b  
99 The Soft Machine E5 6b *  
100 Vicious Circles E5 6b  
  Bagpus Area
102 Ornamental Art Mark 2 E5 6b  
103 Origami Today E4 6a  
104 Poison Letter E3 5c *  
105 Bagpus E5 6a *  
106 Baron Greenback E6 6a 2
107 Storm Rider E3 5c  
  Dangermouse Area
109 Centre Line VS 4c 10
110 Trophy HS 4b 17
111 Whispering Wall E2 5b 2
112 Dangermouse E5 6b ** 2
113 Baby Frogs with Dirty Little Lips E3 6a * 3
114 Just a Tad E1 5b 2
115 Obelisks Fly High HS 4a * 84
116 Unmegaladon 6c 3
117 Megalith HS 4a 22
  Frigorific Area
119 Transient HVS 5a 13
120 Pugilist HS 4a 20
121 Scaremonger HVS 4c 10
122 Lax M 11
123 Auto-De-Fe S 4a 36
124 Frigorific E1 5b 9
125 Centrefold HVS 5b * 18
126 Calefaction VS 4c 42
127 Exostosis HVS 5a * 28
128 Heloma Durum 6a+ 1
129 Swell VS 4c 14
130 Blister HVS 4c 6
  The Quick Tick Wall
132 Minnie Minor 6c  
133 Happy Slapper E4 6a * 1
134 Sister Moon E3 5c * 1
135 Unknown Crack VS 4b 3
136 Gilly Flower HVS 5b * 6
137 Waffle or Crack (ers) E2 5c ** 2
138 Toe Bitter E2 5c  
139 Flied Lice E1 5b 2
140 Crypt Tick HVS 5a * 28
Climb name Grade
141 Pig Pen E3 6a  
142 Winterhill E3 5c *  
143 Old Chipatti E3 6a * 1
144 El Crapitan HVS 5a 1
145 Pumpkin Seed E1 5b * 5
146 Lentil Man E1 5b * 4
147 Fingerbobs HVS 5b * 10
148 Celery Stick E1 5c * 1
149 Tindaloo Trots
-
E2 5c  
150 Short Trip VS 5a 1
151 Lay Me Back HS 4b 7
  Two Tier Area
153 Splitting Finger Crack E2 5b * 6
154 Pinfold Left-Hand VS 4b 9
155 Pinfold Right-Hand VS 4b 12
156 Wooly Ramble VS 4c 2
157 The Moving Finger E3 6a 1
158 Buster Bloodvessel E3 6a *  
159 Red Flag Day E3 6a ** 2
160 Thin White Line E5 6a **  
161 Progressions of Power E3 5c ** 18
162 Progressions of Power 2nd Pitch Variant HVS 5b ** 7
163 Gerald's Dilemma VS 4c * 37
164 Inglorious 6c * 1
165 Glorious Wobblegong E4 6b *  
166 Overhanging Crack E1 5b ** 32
167 Rock a Little E2 6a * 1
168 Pocket Rocket E4 6b  
169 G.M.B.H E3 6a * 4
170 E.C.V VS 4c ** 119
  Solo in Soho Area
172 Eagle's Nest Crack HS 4b 18
173 Dead or Alive VS 4b 17
174 Alive Not Dead VS 4c 15
175 Neon Knights E2 5b 11
176 Phallic Tower HVS 5a 16
177 Marnie HVS 4c * 44
178 Life of Dubious Virtue E4 6b *  
179 Y Corner HVS 5a * 131
180 Too Many Women E2 5c 3
181 Vacances Verticales E2 5c ** 64
182 Darling Rose E3 6b 3
183 Foot Loose and Fancy Free E1 5b 8
184 Marander E1 5a * 75
185 Russian Roulette E2 5b 5
186 Solo in Soho E3 6a *** 62
187 Alchemy E3 6a  
188 Devils Alternative HVS 5a * 97
189 Toccata VS 5a ** 170
190 Play to Kill E2 5c 2
191 Banana Splits E3 6a *  
192 Shoot to Thrill E7 6b ** 5
193 Midnight Special HVS 5b 13
  Monkshead Buttress
195 Hunky Monk 6c 2
196 The After Eights 7b+  
197 People Give Me the Eyes 7c **  
198 Yankee Doodle Dandy 7b+ * 2
199 I Feel Like a Wog 7b * 3
200 Too Monk to Funk 7c *  
201 Yo yo yo yo E3 6a  
202 Golly Gee 6b+ 9
203 Golly Gosh 6b+ 7
204 Indian Summer 6c  
205 Golly Wog 6c 3
206 Swiss Drum Roll E5 6b  
207 Progressions of Power (pitch 2) E2 5c ** 1
208 Brown Pants * HVS 5a  
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Luke Owens