Climbs 200
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 336m a.s.l

what's goin'on 7a © jolly

Crag features

A magnificent group of crags offering the visitor a great variety of climbing in all grades. Wall climbing, jamming cracks sport routes, lunatic fringe routes, and even some aid can all be had here.

Approach notes

Proceed along the Eglwyseg Valley road, as for World's End Crag, until a turning, signposted 'Panorama', appears on your right. Follow the roadaround to your left, and after about 600m you will come to a large layby on the right near a track, where you park. Walk down the road to the gate and follow the drive up to where it crosses a river bed. From this poind you can see the North Buttress high on the left skyline, the South Buttress directly in front, and towering above on the right, Monks Buttress.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

Clwyd Limestone

This Clwyd Limestone Rockfax covers virtually all of the sport and trad climbing available in and around the Clwydian hills as well as the very best trad and sport climbs at the outlying Pandy Outcrop, Llanymynech Quarry and Pontesford Rocks.
More info
More Guidebooks:
www.sportsclimbs.co.uk (1995)
Clwyd Rock (1993)

Out of print:
All area's updated and climbs now in order.
Luke Owens - 25/Jul/12
Seems a pretty good crag with plenty of variety. The Soho area is rather pleasant, further along things get more dramatic and the path probably warrants an E-grade...
Fiend - 19/Oct/05
Bit loose on North wall its like being under fire their is that much rock coming down from your partner
ashaw - 16/Aug/04
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Descent Area
2 Undercurrent E2 5c  
3 Smouldering Bouldering E3 6a  
4 Ye Old Cod Piece E3 5c  
5 Sweet Satisfaction HS 4b 1
6 Flighting HVS 5a  
7 Sayfari VD 6
8 Fingernail HVS 5a * 1
9 One Carlos E5 6b  
10 Franco HVS 5a  
  Sentinel Area
12 Tweak E1 5b  
13 Stoned Roman E1 5b  
14 Et Tu Brutus 6b+ * 2
15 Whilst Rome Burns 7a * 4
16 A Stab In The Back 7b *  
17 U Got Me Bugged 7a+ * 1
18 Bug Off 7b *  
19 Serengetti 7a *  
20 Lurking in the Long Grass 7a+ ** 1
21 Rays and Hail 7b+ *  
22 Ray of Hope 6c+ *  
23 Bennetto HS 4b 5
24 Sentinel E2 5c ** 22
25 The Cycle Path 7b **  
26 Freeway Madness E4 5c * 4
27 Highway Hysteria HVS 5a  
28 Soft Shoulder 6a * 2
29 Buffoon VS 4c  
30 Hard Shoulder 7b  
31 Polytextured Finish 6c+ 2
32 Bold Poly VS 4b 11
33 Sometimes Yes, Sometimes No E3 6a *  
34 A Dose of Barley Fever 6c+ * 2
35 Slippery Caramel 7a+ *  
36 Just a Treat 6a+ 1
37 Nesting Crack HVS 5a  
38 Monumental HS 4b 5
  Kinberg Area
40 The Burger King E3 6a *  
41 Kinberg VS 4c *** 165
42 Atlantic Traveller VS 4c ** 53
43 Osteophyte E5 6a **  
44 Bone Orchard E3 5c * 2
45 Unknown Feelings E2 5b ** 33
46 A Spaceman in the Whitehouse E4 6a 1
47 Space Ace E3 5c ** 5
48 Mitsuki Groove HVS 5a * 29
49 Non Stop E1 5c * 4
50 Smokey Bear E2 5b 2
51 Physical Transaction 7a  
52 Freely Slapping Upwards 7b  
53 Out of the Fire, Into the Furnace 7b  
54 Prickly Heat 7a ** 1
55 Pictures of Living E4 6a *  
56 Mr Wobbler E3 6a  
57 Dying Tonight 7a+ *  
58 Slap and Tickle 7a+ * 2
59 Wibbly Wobbly World 6c * 3
  Atmospheres Area
61 Funky Monkey Pie 7c+ *  
62 Killer Gorilla 7a+ ** 5
63 Killer Gorilla - Free
-
7c+ **  
64 Planet Claire 7b ***  
65 Atmospheres 7a *** 22
66 Atmospheres - Free 7c ***  
67 Private Idaho 7c ** 1
68 Generation of Swine 7b+ *** 1
69 Brain Box 7b+ **  
70 Aphrodizziness 7a * 3
71 Oxygen E3 6a ** 1
  Mental Transition Area
73 Eddie Waring Lives On 6c+ * 3
74 Demolition Man E4 6b *  
75 Mental Transition E4 6b *** 10
76 Through the Grapevine 7b ** 5
77 What's Goin' On 7a ** 22
78 Mercy Mercy Me 6b+ * 3
79 The Sinking, Shrinking, Shrimp E2 5c * 4
80 Spastic Spider E2 5c * 2
81 Spastic Spider Direct E2 6a  
82 Shy of Coconuts 7a *  
83 Candy 7b * 2
84 Lickin' Lollipops 7b * 9
  King of Fools Area
86 Condessa HVS 5a  
87 Friction Factor E2 6a * 4
88 Fraction Fictor 7a  
89 Hard Fought E2 5b 1
90 Last Fandango E1 5b * 9
91 Wafer Way VS 4c * 16
92 Shasavaan E1 5b  
93 Foolish Pride E4 6b  
94 King of Fools E3 6a *  
95 Mainstay E3 6a * 1
96 Basket Case E3 6a  
97 Stress Test E4 6b  
98 The Soft Machine E5 6b *  
99 Vicious Circles E5 6b  
  Bagpus Area
101 Ornamental Art Mark 2 E5 6b  
102 Origami Today E4 6a  
103 Poison Letter E3 5c *  
104 Bagpus E5 6a *  
105 Baron Greenback E6 6a 2
106 Storm Rider E3 5c  
  Dangermouse Area
108 Centre Line VS 4c 9
109 Trophy HS 4b 15
110 Whispering Wall E2 5b 1
111 Dangermouse E5 6b ** 2
112 Baby Frogs with Dirty Little Lips E3 6a * 3
113 Just a Tad E1 5b 1
114 Obelisks Fly High HS 4a * 78
115 Unmegaladon 6c 2
116 Megalith HS 4a 21
  Frigorific Area
118 Transient HVS 5a 12
119 Pugilist HS 4a 18
120 Scaremonger HVS 4c 8
121 Lax M 9
122 Auto-De-Fe S 4a 29
123 Frigorific E1 5b 7
124 Centrefold HVS 5b * 18
125 Calefaction VS 4c 37
126 Exostosis HVS 5a * 26
127 Heloma Durum 6a+ 1
128 Swell VS 4c 13
129 Blister HVS 4c 6
  The Quick Tick Wall
131 Minnie Minor 6c  
132 Happy Slapper E4 6a * 1
133 Sister Moon E3 5c * 1
134 Unknown Crack VS 4b 3
135 Gilly Flower HVS 5b * 6
136 Waffle or Crack (ers) E2 5c ** 1
137 Toe Bitter E2 5c  
138 Flied Lice E1 5b 1
139 Crypt Tick HVS 5a * 29
140 Pig Pen E3 6a  
141 Winterhill E3 5c *  
142 Old Chipatti E3 6a * 1
143 El Crapitan HVS 5a 1
144 Pumpkin Seed E1 5b * 5
145 Lentil Man E1 5b * 3
146 Fingerbobs HVS 5b * 10
147 Celery Stick E1 5c *  
148 Tindaloo Trots
-
E2 5c  
149 Short Trip VS 5a 1
150 Lay Me Back HS 4b 7
  Two Tier Area
152 Splitting Finger Crack E2 5b * 6
153 Pinfold Left-Hand VS 4b 8
154 Pinfold Right-Hand VS 4b 12
155 Wooly Ramble VS 4c 2
156 The Moving Finger E3 6a 1
157 Buster Bloodvessel E3 6a *  
158 Red Flag Day E3 6a ** 2
159 Thin White Line E5 6a **  
160 Progressions of Power E3 5c ** 18
161 Progressions of Power 2nd Pitch Variant HVS 5b ** 4
162 Gerald's Dilemma VS 4c * 33
163 Inglorious 6c *  
164 Glorious Wobblegong E4 6b *  
165 Overhanging Crack E1 5b ** 25
166 Rock a Little E2 6a * 1
167 Pocket Rocket E4 6b  
168 G.M.B.H E3 6a * 3
169 E.C.V VS 4c ** 109
  Solo in Soho Area
171 Eagle's Nest Crack HS 4b 18
172 Dead or Alive VS 4b 17
173 Alive Not Dead VS 4c 15
174 Neon Knights E2 5b 9
175 Phallic Tower HVS 5a 15
176 Marnie HVS 4c * 34
177 Life of Dubious Virtue E4 6b *  
178 Y Corner HVS 5a * 110
179 Too Many Women E2 5c 1
180 Vacances Verticales E2 5c ** 57
181 Darling Rose E3 6b 3
182 Foot Loose and Fancy Free E1 5b 7
183 Marander E1 5a * 63
184 Russian Roulette E2 5b 4
185 Solo in Soho E3 6a *** 55
186 Alchemy E3 6a  
187 Devils Alternative HVS 5a * 81
188 Toccata VS 5a ** 150
189 Play to Kill E2 5c  
190 Banana Splits E3 6a *  
191 Shoot to Thrill E7 6b ** 6
192 Midnight Special HVS 5b 10
  Monkshead Butress
194 Hunky Monk 6c 2
195 The After Eights 7b+  
196 People Give Me the Eyes 7c **  
197 Yankee Doodle Dandy 7b+ * 2
198 I Feel Like a Wog 7b * 2
199 Too Monk to Funk 7c *  
200 Yo yo yo yo E3 6a  
201 Golly Gee 6b+ 8
202 Golly Gosh 6b+ 6
203 Indian Summer 6c  
204 Golly Wog 6c 3
205 Swiss Drum Roll E5 6b  
206 Progressions of Power (pitch 2) E2 5c ** 1
207 Brown Pants * HVS 5a  
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Luke Owens