Climbs 171
Rocktype Limestone

James Rushforth on "This way to Clitheroe" (E4 6a) at Trevor Quarry © James Rushforth

Crag features

Ten limestone walls and buttresses consisting of mainly sport climbing, the best of which are at Compact Wall and the steep side of the large main quarry. There are some lower grade trad routes on Railway Buttress. All routes at the Trevor area are single pitch up to 17 metres.

Approach notes

Follow the Eglwyseg Valley road from Llangollen until a turning, signposted 'Panorama' appears on the right. Follow this for a mile, ignoring a sire road dropping off to the right. Continue until a large layby is reached on the left. For Trevor Quarry, approach is made via the steep scree slope above the layby. For Compact Wall and Railway Buttress approach is made along the obvious incline for about 400m leading back up the valley and along a path at the foot of the quarries.

Note: further up the road from the layby there is a hairpin bend with a track leading to Trevor Quarry. Do not take vehicles up this route, since the farmer uses this area for sheep grazing.

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Guidebooks

Clwyd Limestone

This Clwyd Limestone Rockfax covers virtually all of the sport and trad climbing available in and around the Clwydian hills as well as the very best trad and sport climbs at the outlying Pandy Outcrop, Llanymynech Quarry and Pontesford Rocks.
More info
More Guidebooks:
www.sportsclimbs.co.uk (1995)
Clwyd Rock (1993)

Out of print:
PLEASE TAKE CARE!!!! Was climbing at the newly developed crags to the left of Fudd Wall (11/04/14). Lots of loose stones and large boulders ready to and did fall down. A good afternoons climbing was spent in Wrexham A&E.
peterpeter - 13/Jun/14
Beware: a fridge-sized block between the last bolt and the lower off on "Dim Parcio" (DM walls area) is loose.
another_alex - 22/Jul/13
Went climbing here last weekend and it seemed that nearly all the belay stakes mentioned in the guide book at the main quarry walls were missing. Was this us being blind or have they been removed? You can now only do the two bolted routes as there is no where to belay from at the top...
Jack93 - 28/Jun/13
Did routes on the new lower offs for the first time this weekend and was rather worried by them: The bolts underneath are the same ones that have been 'replaced'. The trouble is many of these have over half of their material all ready worn away. Clue, So? and Who's Sam were particularly bad in this respect.
D Berry - 09/Jul/12
Very big than kyou to the people who renewed the lower offs, youve done us all a service! Well Done :-)
Joss - 04/May/12
Beware!! Crime Scene on Suspect walls has a dodgy lower off. One of the bolts had a loose nut. couldn't tighten it as didn't have the tools.
peetay - 27/Jun/10
Trevor is the ideal location for beginner to intermediate sport climbing. All newer route details can be found on the wiki site: http://trevorlimestone.wetpaint.com/
Joss - 03/Mar/10
Went to have a climb on Supsect Wall last weekend ( 7/5/06. Didn't have a guidebook so not entirely sure of the routes climbed, however, think they were Prime Suspect and Forensic Science. Found the bolts on the routes to be well thought out,in good quality rock and well positioned but the lower offs were very suspect. This being due to the nature of the rock they have been placed in. I would recommened that these lower off's are monitored very carefully and consider toping out and using the in-situ stakes.
Chris Wood - 14/May/06
some excellent low grade sport routes & some good 6a's for pushing your grade up.
G - 31/Mar/06
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Climbs at this crag

51Dogs of War6a+ *97
52K95a *157
 FURRY WALL 
54Crocs5c 48
55Crocs Face Climb6a+ 9
56Alligator's CrawlHVS 5a * 
57Snakes in the Grass6b *59
58No Reptiles6a *170
59Super Furry Frogs6a+ *78
60Horny Toad6c 38
61Hornier Toad6b 44
62Long-legged Lizard from Liverpool6a *188
 Compact Wall 
64Thorn in My SideVS 4b 10
65Iron CurtainE2 5c 10
66Bordering on Desire6a+ **9
67Borderline6a+ ***429
68Margin of Error6c **187
69Traction Control6c ***214
70Checkpoint Charlie6b *196
71Lost Control6b *163
72Over the Wall6a+ *237
73Over the Wall with Checkpoint Charlie finish6a *58
74The Great Escape6a+ *167
75I Met a Man from Mars6a+ 148
76Boreholderline6a 103
77Pot Noodle, Don't Leave Home Without OneVS 4b 16
78Try to Understand, Understand?
-
6a+ 8
79April FoolVS 4b 16
80Left Handed FoolVS 4b 7
81Catch the Pigeon4c *112
82Prof Pat Pending6a 43
83Ant Hill Mob5b 74
 Impact Wall 
85Full Impact6c 45
86Opening Impact6b 26
87Impaction5a 100
88Sudden Impact4a *248
89Impact Imminent6b *68
90No Evasion5a 100
 Railway Buttress 
92Yummy Brummy3+ 45
93Dimmock CrackHVD 8
94James the Red EngineS 3c 143
95The Fat ControllerS 4a *157
96The Boiler HouseS 35
97Thomas the Tank EngineS 4a *195
98Ivor the EngineHS 4b 133
99Puffing BillyHS 4b *156
100The Thin ControllerVS 4a 67
101Tims Filthy Finger (Now Removed)5a 5
 Suspect Wall 
103Prime Suspect4a 613
104Innocence5c *549
105Crime Scene6b *260
106Suspectus6a+ *228
107Suspect Device6a+ *143
108Suspect Criminal6b *200
109Under Suspicion6b *220
110SND4a *189
111Cluedo5c *476
112Forensic Science5a 556
113Forever the Suspect6a+ *368
114Haven't got a Clue6a *527
115Proven Guilty5c 425
116Plea for Leniency6a+ 158
117No Remittal6a 273
118Dissapearing Act5a *248
119Clue, So?4c *746
120Amateur Sleuth5c 275
121Who's Sam4a *390
122Sam's the Man6b 32
123A Leaf Out Of Sam's Book6a+ 18
124Sam Sam the Pan Man6b 5
125Sam Sam Alert6a+ 17
 The Quarry 
127QuicksilverS 4a 49
128Big PhlashVS 4a *113
129Long John SilverVS 4b *70
130Blue FlashVS 4b *96
131Gold PhlashVS 4b *97
132Big SplatHVS 4c *68
133My RouteVS 4b 21
134DinoVS 4b *93
135The Silver LineHVS 5a *99
136Line BashingVS 4b 9
137Any Which Way You CanE2 5b 18
138Kyani QuatsiE2 5b 1
139Planet HeadE3 5c 2
140Any Which WayE2 5b **124
141Mud Slide Slim6c **25
142This Way to Clitheroe6c **57
143Clevor Trevor6c **37
144The Last StrawE3 5c *17
145Trabucco6c+ *41
146White SmearE4 5c *14
147AmyE3 5c 2
148LingenVS 4b 92
149FlingVS 4b 76
150All Over LancashireE3 5c 2

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