Climbs 171
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 286m a.s.l

James Rushforth on "This way to Clitheroe" (E4 6a) at Trevor Quarry © James Rushforth

Crag features

Ten limestone walls and buttresses consisting of mainly sport climbing, the best of which are at Compact Wall and the steep side of the large main quarry. There are some lower grade trad routes on Railway Buttress. All routes at the Trevor area are single pitch up to 17 metres.

Approach notes

Follow the Eglwyseg Valley road from Llangollen until a turning, signposted 'Panorama' appears on the right. Follow this for a mile, ignoring a sire road dropping off to the right. Continue until a large layby is reached on the left. For Trevor Quarry, approach is made via the steep scree slope above the layby. For Compact Wall and Railway Buttress approach is made along the obvious incline for about 400m leading back up the valley and along a path at the foot of the quarries.

Note: further up the road from the layby there is a hairpin bend with a track leading to Trevor Quarry. Do not take vehicles up this route, since the farmer uses this area for sheep grazing.

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Guidebooks

Clwyd Limestone

This Clwyd Limestone Rockfax covers virtually all of the sport and trad climbing available in and around the Clwydian hills as well as the very best trad and sport climbs at the outlying Pandy Outcrop, Llanymynech Quarry and Pontesford Rocks.
More info
More Guidebooks:
www.sportsclimbs.co.uk (1995)
Clwyd Rock (1993)

Out of print:
PLEASE TAKE CARE!!!! Was climbing at the newly developed crags to the left of Fudd Wall (11/04/14). Lots of loose stones and large boulders ready to and did fall down. A good afternoons climbing was spent in Wrexham A&E.
peterpeter - 13/Jun/14
Beware: a fridge-sized block between the last bolt and the lower off on "Dim Parcio" (DM walls area) is loose.
another_alex - 22/Jul/13
Went climbing here last weekend and it seemed that nearly all the belay stakes mentioned in the guide book at the main quarry walls were missing. Was this us being blind or have they been removed? You can now only do the two bolted routes as there is no where to belay from at the top...
Jack93 - 28/Jun/13
Did routes on the new lower offs for the first time this weekend and was rather worried by them: The bolts underneath are the same ones that have been 'replaced'. The trouble is many of these have over half of their material all ready worn away. Clue, So? and Who's Sam were particularly bad in this respect.
D Berry - 09/Jul/12
Very big than kyou to the people who renewed the lower offs, youve done us all a service! Well Done :-)
Joss - 04/May/12
Beware!! Crime Scene on Suspect walls has a dodgy lower off. One of the bolts had a loose nut. couldn't tighten it as didn't have the tools.
peetay - 27/Jun/10
Trevor is the ideal location for beginner to intermediate sport climbing. All newer route details can be found on the wiki site: http://trevorlimestone.wetpaint.com/
Joss - 03/Mar/10
Went to have a climb on Supsect Wall last weekend ( 7/5/06. Didn't have a guidebook so not entirely sure of the routes climbed, however, think they were Prime Suspect and Forensic Science. Found the bolts on the routes to be well thought out,in good quality rock and well positioned but the lower offs were very suspect. This being due to the nature of the rock they have been placed in. I would recommened that these lower off's are monitored very carefully and consider toping out and using the in-situ stakes.
Chris Wood - 14/May/06
some excellent low grade sport routes & some good 6a's for pushing your grade up.
G - 31/Mar/06
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  D M Wall
2 Co ed in the Coed 5a * 132
3 Maevanwy 6a * 149
4 Ogre in the Ogof 5a * 115
5 Scratching the Surface 5a * 110
6 Sgrech yr Hebog 5c ** 150
7 Raptor Rap 5a ** 87
8 Merlin Magic 5b * 92
9 Cwm buy a thrill 5c 61
10 Cwm,cwm, and cwm again (Now removed) 4a * 13
11 The Last Llath 5a 54
12 The Full Nine Llaths 5a 54
13 Dim Parcio 4a * 89
14 Welsh Fargo 5a * 80
15 Slow Araf Slow 6a * 75
  Over Yr Wall
17 Cwm over Yr 4a 45
18 Yr Yr Yr 6a+ 32
19 A rare bit of welsh 5c 35
20 Dai Laughing 5a * 38
21 Bath in the Taff 6a+ * 35
22 The Valley's Initiative 5b 28
23 Cwm all ye Faithful 5a 16
24 Cwms the Farmer 6b+ 10
25 Help, Help me Rhondda 6a+ 12
26 Do or Dai 6b 5
27 Cwms the Snow, Man! 5a 17
28 Free Wales 4a * 55
29 The Welsh Wizard 4c * 46
30 A Dim View of Things 6a 15
31 Canal Canol 5c * 21
32 Over Yr, On my Heddlu 5b 58
33 Christmas Gone Crackers 6a * 77
34 Adrafelin What 4c 66
35 Road to Nowhere VS 4b * 2
  The Fudd, Dog and Furry Walls
37 Fuddily Enough VS 2
38 Fudd For Thought 5b 57
39 All Fudd Up 6a * 142
40 Would I, Should I, Fudd I 6c * 69
41 Fudd Off 6b * 96
42 Elmer J. Fudd VS 4b * 71
43 The Fuddites 6b * 71
44 Betty Boo Rides Again VS 4c 22
45 Chocolate Fudd 6a+ 80
  DOG WALL
47 If I had all the money I'd spent on drink, I'd spend it on drink HVS 4c 26
48 Hot Dog 4a * 312
49 Dogmatic 6a * 53
50 Deputy Dog 4c * 197
51 Dogs of War 6a+ * 100
52 K9 5a * 164
  FURRY WALL
54 Crocs 5c 53
55 Crocs Face Climb 6a+ 12
56 Alligator's Crawl HVS 5a *  
57 Snakes in the Grass 6b * 62
58 No Reptiles 6a * 180
59 Super Furry Frogs 6a+ * 82
60 Horny Toad 6c 37
61 Hornier Toad 6b 45
62 Long-legged Lizard from Liverpool 6a * 190
  Compact Wall
64 Thorn in My Side VS 4b 12
65 Iron Curtain E2 5c 10
66 Bordering on Desire 6a+ ** 9
67 Borderline 6a+ *** 449
68 Margin of Error 6c ** 196
69 Traction Control 6c *** 228
70 Checkpoint Charlie 6b * 209
71 Lost Control 6b * 178
72 Over the Wall 6a+ * 250
73 Over the Wall with Checkpoint Charlie finish 6a * 57
74 The Great Escape 6a+ * 178
75 I Met a Man from Mars 6a+ 154
76 Boreholderline 6a 112
77 Pot Noodle, Don't Leave Home Without One VS 4b 18
78 Try to Understand, Understand?
-
6a+ 8
79 April Fool VS 4b 14
80 Left Handed Fool VS 4b 8
81 Catch the Pigeon 4c * 129
82 Prof Pat Pending 6a 49
83 Ant Hill Mob 5b 86
  Impact Wall
85 Full Impact 6c 47
86 Opening Impact 6b 29
87 Impaction 5a 111
88 Sudden Impact 4a * 264
89 Impact Imminent 6b * 74
90 No Evasion 5a 106
  Railway Buttress
92 Yummy Brummy 3+ 50
93 Dimmock Crack HVD 10
94 James the Red Engine S 3c 150
95 The Fat Controller S 4a * 166
96 The Boiler House S 37
97 Thomas the Tank Engine S 4a * 203
98 Ivor the Engine HS 4b 139
99 Puffing Billy HS 4b * 165
100 The Thin Controller VS 4a 71
101 Tims Filthy Finger (Now Removed) 5a 5
  Suspect Wall
103 Prime Suspect 4a 627
104 Innocence 5c * 559
105 Crime Scene 6b * 271
106 Suspectus 6a+ * 240
107 Suspect Device 6a+ * 149
108 Suspect Criminal 6b * 203
109 Under Suspicion 6b * 230
110 SND 4a * 203
111 Cluedo 5c * 490
112 Forensic Science 5a 570
113 Forever the Suspect 6a+ * 376
114 Haven't got a Clue 6a * 554
115 Proven Guilty 5c 449
116 Plea for Leniency 6a+ 172
117 No Remittal 6a 282
118 Dissapearing Act 5a * 270
119 Clue, So? 4c * 776
120 Amateur Sleuth 5c 283
121 Who's Sam 4a * 411
122 Sam's the Man 6b 35
123 A Leaf Out Of Sam's Book 6a+ 29
124 Sam Sam the Pan Man 6b 6
125 Sam Sam Alert 6a+ 24
  The Quarry
127 Quicksilver S 4a 54
128 Big Phlash VS 4a * 123
129 Long John Silver VS 4b * 77
130 Blue Flash VS 4b * 106
131 Gold Phlash VS 4b * 105
132 Big Splat HVS 4c * 74
133 My Route VS 4b 21
134 Dino VS 4b * 100
135 The Silver Line HVS 5a * 103
136 Line Bashing VS 4b 11
137 Any Which Way You Can E2 5b 18
138 Kyani Quatsi E2 5b 1
139 Planet Head E3 5c 2
140 Any Which Way E2 5b ** 128
141 Mud Slide Slim 6c ** 25
142 This Way to Clitheroe 6c ** 64
143 Clevor Trevor 6c ** 45
144 The Last Straw E3 5c * 17
145 Trabucco 6c+ * 45
146 White Smear E4 5c * 15
147 Amy E3 5c 2
148 Lingen VS 4b 93
149 Fling VS 4b 79
150 All Over Lancashire E3 5c 2

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