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Due to the ongoing spread of Covid-19, please abstain from climbing outside.

At UKC we are all climbers and we understand the strong urge to be outdoors as the weather is finally improving, but we feel this is no longer socially acceptable. You can read our statement here.

We have suspended the UKC Logbooks Top Ascents and Conditions pages and we will no longer accept ascents dated from 23rd March onwards. You can still upload your historic ascents.

UKClimbing Team

Climbs 102
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude Tidal
Faces SW

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Ali contemplating the hard bit on Pleasure Dome (E3 5c), Stennis Head, Pembroke © Jamie Moss

Crag features

The glorious and easily-accessed venue of Stennis Head has long been the place for beginners and experienced climbers alike, with its steady scramble-in approach, tempting spread of grades and terrific fused limestone - the only thing wrong with Stennis Head is the fact that it's on the wrong side of the dreaded red flag!

The classics here include Hercules (HVS), Manzoku (E1) and the aspirational mega-route Pleasure Dome (E3) - quite possibly the best E3 in the land. Add to this the long, diagonal slash of Myola (HS), the hanging grooves of Stuntsman's Buttress, the Dream of White Horses-esque traverse of Riders on the Storm (HVS) and the outlying corner gem of Bludgeon (HVS), and you have a recipe that goes down well on just about every visit.

Approach notes

Tidal on a handful of routes below the main cliff.

Restricted Access

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 1 August

Reason: Nesting Birds

There may be a temporary restriction on the route 'Hercules' due to nesting chough - look for on site signs and avoid this route if chough activity around the hole in the brown pillar adjacent to the first half of the route.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Android and iOS devices.


Guidebooks

Pembroke

This new app version of the Pembroke Rockfax has been significantly updated with 350 extra routes, new geo-located maps and updates to the existing information. The print guide from 2009 had 650 routes and this new app package has nearly 1000! The update includes many easier routes plus extra lines at the main crags covered in the book. It also has extensive deep water soloing coverage with the majority of the crags from Mike Robertson's 2007 Deep Water book added to the mix.
More info

Pembroke

This book from 2009 covers all the classic routes on the most popular crags of Pembroke. It covers the beautiful slab climbing around St. David's and all the best crags of Range East and the Lydstep areas, as far as Mother Carey's Kitchen. The range and variety of routes is enough to keep any climber happy; from those leading moderate grades keen to have a look for the first time, all the way to those who have developed lifelong obsessions for the place!
More info

Deep Water

Mike Robertson's award winning Deep Water guide, covering DWS on the English South Coast, Pembroke, Scotland and throughout the world.
More info
Just looked in my 1986 guide FA list. I noted 'supersedes Topless Woman and Stennis Grey'.
jon - 27/May/14
Loundsy, re your comment on Topless Woman: > this route appears in the 1982 supplement, but is not in subsequent guides. It climbs the area to the right of Hercules, possibly taking similar ground to Flash. (I'm not sure this route exists? surely its not climbed often) Flash does indeed supersede Topless Woman. I was on my own at Stennis Head one day when Nipper H and Martin Crocker appeared. I'd not met Martin before and Nipper introduced him as: 'The Bristol hot-shot'. I said 'I thought that was you, Nipper'. He replied 'So did I!' Anyway, Nipper made short work of Flash, a route that quite a few folk had tried, and Martin and I followed. My hazy memory is that there was possibly another route somewhere there that didn't have a lower section and that Flash may coincide with that too?
jon - 27/May/14
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Myola
2 Leap of Faith
-
E4 6a  
3 Life Jacket E6 6b **  
4 Sea Empress Strikes Back
-
E5 6a  
5 Blind Magic E1 5b * 11
6 Bed Rock E2 5c * 3
7 Myola HS 4b *** 522
8 Myopia VS 4c * 114
9 Once in a Lifetime
-
E1 5a  
  Stuntsman's Buttress
11 Oversight S 4a * 38
12 Birds ehh!
-
S 4a  
13 Two Men and a Scrote HVS 5a 4
14 Big Sea Running E1 5b * 33
15 Traction Action E3 5c * 10
16 Evil Knievel
-
E4 6b  
17 The Stuntman's Revenge
-
E4 6b **  
18 Stuntsman E2 5b ** 32
19 Heady Kidd
-
E3 5b 1
20 The Dog's a Whore
-
E4 5c *  
21 The Sadist Dietician's Route for the Criminally Obese
-
E4 6a * 1
22 Dog in the Piano
-
E6 6b  
23 A Waking Dream
-
E4 6a *  
24 Out of My Mind E5 6a *** 9
  Stuntsman's Wall
26 One Man and a Scrote
-
E4 6a  
27 Dodging the Issue
-
E2 5b  
28 The Fast Show
-
E2 5c  
29 Jessie's Diet
-
E1 5b  
30 Job of Work
-
S 4a 1
31 Suit You Sir
-
VS 4c  
32 A Corker
-
E3 5b  
33 Tidal Threats
-
VS 4c  
  Southwest Face
35 Bloody Knee
-
VS 5a  
36 Sinister Sister
-
E2 5b  
37 Pugwash HVS 5a * 20
Climb name Grade
38 Cut-Throat
-
E2 5c * 7
39 Mind the Dawes
-
E1 5b  
40 Riders on the Storm HVS 5a *** 820
41 Lucky Find HVS 5a * 8
42 Middle C HVS 5a ** 21
43 Big C E1 5a * 12
44 Reincarnation
-
E2 5b 1
45 C++ HVS 5a * 43
46 Painted Head VS 4c * 45
47 The Anvil Chorus
-
HVS 5a  
  The Main Face
49 The Digit Counter Falls HVS 5b 38
50 North Corner VD 327
51 North Corner Variation Start S 4a 48
52 Highland Fling HS 4b * 1054
53 Quickstep VS 4b * 1099
54 Limbo VS 4c * 1161
55 Dire Straits E2 5c * 159
56 World War III Blues E1 5b 332
57 Headucation E3 5c * 7
58 Plankwalk E5 6b * 13
59 Hercules HVS 5a ** 1063
60 Flash E4 6a ** 52
61 Trevor's Route
-
E6 6b  
62 The Second Coming of the Messiah
-
E5 6b  
63 Stennis Elbow E2 5c * 104
64 Manzoku E1 5b *** 1261
65 Man Alive
-
E2 5b 3
66 Cool for Cats E1 5b *** 1027
67 Sten Gun
-
E3 6a  
  Pleasure Dome
69 Anyone for Stennis E2 5b * 142
70 Loco Dementia E3 6a * 41
71 The Stennis Inquisition
-
E2 5c  
72 Stennis Pillar HVS 5a * 106
73 Tigger's Traverse
-
HVS 4c  
74 Gold Fever E2 5c 3
Climb name Grade
75 Diagnosis E4 6a * 3
76 Mean Streak E5 6a ** 44
77 The Great Elmyra E5 6c *  
78 Pleasure Dome E3 5c *** 385
79 Stennis the Menace / The Great Elmyra E6 6c *** 4
80 Stennis the Menace E6 6b *** 4
81 Tom Stark
-
E8 6c  
82 Grey English Morning E5 6a *** 21
83 Grey English Wimpout E2 5c ** 4
84 Walk on the Wild Side E3 5c ** 7
85 Superbrat E2 5c * 2
  The South Buttress
87 Stennis Chimney S ** 144
88 Maelstrom Chimney HS 4b ** 74
89 Stennis ArĂȘte HS 4b ** 290
90 Spank
-
E5 6a  
91 Fetish E5 6a ** 9
92 Merchant of Stennis E3 5c ** 77
93 Man o'War
-
E3 5c  
94 Bludgeon HVS 5a ** 421
95 Mistaken Identity E1 5b * 36
96 Big Wave E3 6a * 9
97 White Snake E1 5b 11
98 The Lamb Lies Down on Broadway
-
HVS 5b 6
99 Kanda Bongo Man HVS 5a * 22
100 JK Mouth of the South
-
E1 5a  
101 Battle Galleons
-
HVS 5b 7
102 Goblin Teasmade E1 5b 6
103 Foaming at the Mouth E2 5c * 5
104 Spit it Out
-
E3 5c 3
105 Talking Dirty
-
E1 5b 6
106 Mouthing Off VS 4c 14
107 Don't Speak with Your Mouth Full
-
S 6
108 The Watching Scrote
-
S 4a 2
109 Old Master's Wall
-
E1 5a  

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