Climbs 101
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude Tidal
Faces SW

Ali contemplating the hard bit on Pleasure Dome (E3 5c), Stennis Head, Pembroke © Jamie Moss

Crag features

The glorious and easily-accessed venue of Stennis Head has long been the place for beginners and experienced climbers alike, with its steady scramble-in approach, tempting spread of grades and terrific fused limestone - the only thing wrong with Stennis Head is the fact that it's on the wrong side of the dreaded red flag! The classics here include Hercules (HVS), Manzoku (E1) and the aspirational mega-route Pleasure Dome (E3 ) - quite possibly the best E3 in the land. Add to this the long, diagonal slash of Myola (HS), the hanging grooves of Stuntsman's Buttress, the Dream of White Horses-esque traverse of Riders on the Storm (HVS) and the outlying corner gem of Bludgeon (HVS), and you have a recipe that goes down well on just about every visit.

Approach notes

Tidal on a handful of routes below the main cliff.

Restricted Access

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 1 August

Reason: Nesting Birds

There may be a temporary restriction on the route 'Hercules' due to nesting chough - look for on site signs and avoid this route if chough activity around the hole in the brown pillar adjacent to the first half of the route.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

Pembroke

The famous Pembroke Rockfax has returned with this glorious full-colour version packed with classic routes and all the wonderful features that you have come to expect from Rockfax. It is now twice the size of the old 1995 book and has some of the biggest and clearest photo-topos that have ever been published in a UK guidebook.
More info

Deep Water

Mike Robertson's award winning Deep Water guide, covering DWS on the English South Coast, Pembroke, Scotland and throughout the world.
More info
Just looked in my 1986 guide FA list. I noted 'supersedes Topless Woman and Stennis Grey'.
jon - 27/May/14
Loundsy, re your comment on Topless Woman: > this route appears in the 1982 supplement, but is not in subsequent guides. It climbs the area to the right of Hercules, possibly taking similar ground to Flash. (I'm not sure this route exists? surely its not climbed often) Flash does indeed supersede Topless Woman. I was on my own at Stennis Head one day when Nipper H and Martin Crocker appeared. I'd not met Martin before and Nipper introduced him as: 'The Bristol hot-shot'. I said 'I thought that was you, Nipper'. He replied 'So did I!' Anyway, Nipper made short work of Flash, a route that quite a few folk had tried, and Martin and I followed. My hazy memory is that there was possibly another route somewhere there that didn't have a lower section and that Flash may coincide with that too?
jon - 27/May/14
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Myola
2 Leap of Faith
-
E4 6a  
3 Life jacket E6 6b **  
4 Sea Empress Strikes Back
-
E5 6a  
5 Blind Magic E1 5b * 9
6 Bed Rock E2 5c *  
7 Myola HS 4b *** 426
8 Myopia VS 4c * 90
9 Once in a Lifetime
-
E1 5a  
  Stuntsman's
11 Oversight S 4a * 34
12 Birds eh!
-
S 4a  
13 Two Men and a Scrote HVS 5a 3
14 Big Sea Running E1 5b * 28
15 Traction Action E3 5c * 9
16 Evil Knievel
-
E4 6b  
17 The Stuntman's Revenge
-
E4 6b  
18 Stuntsman E2 5b * 29
19 Heady Kidd
-
E3 5b  
20 The Dog's a Whore
-
E4 5c  
21 The Sadist Dietician's Route for the Criminally Obese
-
E4 6a 1
22 Dog in the Piano
-
E6 6b  
23 A Waking Dream
-
E4 6a  
24 Out of my mind E5 6a *** 7
  Stuntsman's Wall
26 One Man and a Scrote
-
E4 6a  
27 Dodging the Issue
-
E2 5b  
28 The Fast Show
-
E2 5c  
29 Jessie's Diet
-
E1 5b  
30 Job of Work
-
S 4a  
31 Suit You Sir
-
VS 4c  
32 A Corker
-
E3 5b  
33 Tidal Threats
-
VS 4c  
  Riders on the Storm
35 Bloody Knee
-
VS 5a  
36 Sinister Sister
-
E2 5b  
37 Pugwash
-
HVS 5a * 11
38 Cut-Throat
-
E2 5c * 3
39 Mind the Dawes
-
E1 5b  
40 Riders on the Storm HVS 5a *** 731
41 Lucky Find HVS 5a * 7
42 Middle C HVS 5a ** 17
43 Big C E1 5a * 11
44 Reincarnation
-
E2 5b  
45 C++ HVS 5a * 41
46 Painted Head
-
VS 4c 27
47 The Anvil Chorus
-
HVS 5a  
  Manzoku
49 The Digit Counter Falls HVS 5b 31
50 North Corner VD 282
51 North Corner Variation Start S 4a 34
52 Highland Fling HS 4b * 847
53 Quickstep VS 4b * 880
54 Limbo VS 4c * 873
55 Dire Straits E2 5c * 129
56 World War III Blues HVS 5b 237
57 Headucation E3 5c * 3
58 Plankwalk E5 6b * 10
59 Hercules HVS 5a ** 797
60 Flash E4 6a ** 45
61 Trevor's Route
-
E6 6b  
62 The Second Coming of the Messiah
-
E5 6b  
63 Stennis Elbow E2 5c * 83
64 Manzoku E1 5b *** 999
65 Man Alive
-
E2 5b  
66 Cool for Cats E1 5b *** 820
67 Sten Gun
-
E3 6a  
  Pleasure Dome
69 Anyone for Stennis E2 5b * 126
70 Loco Dementia E3 6a * 33
71 The Stennis Inquisition
-
E2 5c  
72 Stennis Pillar HVS 5a * 71
73 Tigger's Traverse
-
HVS 4c  
74 Gold Fever E2 5c 3
75 Diagnosis E4 6a *  
76 Mean Streak E5 6a ** 29
77 The Great Elmyra E5 6c *  
78 Pleasure Dome E3 5c *** 361
79 Stennis the Menace / The Great Elmyra E6 6c *** 3
80 Stennis the Menace E6 6b *** 4
81 Grey English Morning E5 6b *** 16
82 Grey English Wimpout E2 5b ** 4
83 Walk on the Wild Side E3 5c ** 4
84 Superbrat E2 5c * 2
  Stennis Arête
86 Stennis Chimney S * 119
87 Maelstrom Chimney S 4a * 53
88 Stennis Arête HS 4b ** 242
89 Spank
-
E5 6a  
90 Fetish E5 6b * 9
91 Merchant of Stennis E3 5c ** 58
92 Man o'War
-
E3 5c  
93 Bludgeon HVS 5a ** 342
94 Mistaken Identity E1 5b * 24
95 Big Wave E3 6a * 8
96 White Snake
-
E1 5b 9
97 The Lamb Lies Down on Broadway
-
HVS 5b 6
98 Kanda Bongo Man HVS 5a 12
99 JK Mouth of the South
-
E1 5a  
100 Battle Galleons
-
HVS 5b 6
101 Goblin Teasmade E1 5b 5
102 Foaming at the Mouth E2 5c * 4
103 Spit it Out
-
E3 5c 2
104 Talking Dirty
-
E1 5b 6
105 Mouthing Off VS 4c 8
106 Don't Speak with Your Mouth Full
-
S 5
107 The Watching Scrote
-
S 4a  
108 Old Master's Wall
-
E1 5a  

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