Climbs 91
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude Tidal
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Preposterous Tales © Dan Arkle

Crag features

Bosherston Head is the broad promontory between Huntsman's Leap and Saddle Head with huge solid faces on all sides. Despite this vast expanse of rock it has never been that popular mainly due to the intimidating nature of the climbing - you can't get a good view of it and the stuff you can see tends to be in the higher grades, plus the fact that we omitted the celebrated South Face from the last Rockfax guide. 

The most popular spot on the headland is the Keelhaul Wall; a fine compact wall of excellent rock with a quartet of class routes - Ghost Ship (E3), Intensive Scare (E2), Baker's Door (E1) and Keelhaul (E2). Next door is the dramatic leaning wall made infamous by the controversial route The Big Issue (E9) and adjacent to this is the stylish Ivory Tower (E2). Moving further round, the South Face is glorious, smacking of wild abseils, grand-scale adventure and seat-of-the-pants daring. This is partly because it's impossible to gain a decent view of your chosen route before engaging, and partly because this terrific hunk of rock is home to one of Pembroke's finest adventures - Preposterous Tales, going at the thoroughly unlikely (caving) grade of HVS, or the E2 we give it here! However, if you are really in search of emotional and soul-searching leads of E4 and above, on wonderful rock, giving you an experience which you will be talking about for years, then you need look no further than the Star Wars area.

Approach notes

Park at St Govans and walk west past Huntsmans Leap. Bosherston is the next headland.

Restricted Access

Superb crag with many different sections. The restriction affecting Star Wars - The Deerhunter has been lifted early for 2019.

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 1 August

Reason: Nesting Birds

Saeasonal restrictions not in place for 2019. Restriction to protect nesting Chough -‘Star Wars’ to ‘The Deerhunter’ inclusive THIS HAS BEEN LIFTED EARLY FOR 2019

 

 

 

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Android and iOS devices.


Guidebooks

Pembroke

This new app version of the Pembroke Rockfax has been significantly updated with 350 extra routes, new geo-located maps and updates to the existing information. The print guide from 2009 had 650 routes and this new app package has nearly 1000! The update includes many easier routes plus extra lines at the main crags covered in the book. It also has extensive deep water soloing coverage with the majority of the crags from Mike Robertson's 2007 Deep Water book added to the mix.
More info

Pembroke

This book from 2009 covers all the classic routes on the most popular crags of Pembroke. It covers the beautiful slab climbing around St. David's and all the best crags of Range East and the Lydstep areas, as far as Mother Carey's Kitchen. The range and variety of routes is enough to keep any climber happy; from those leading moderate grades keen to have a look for the first time, all the way to those who have developed lifelong obsessions for the place!
More info
Why not add something like `Don't miss the climbing here when dry fresh conditions prevail'. ahem-greasiness-ahem
Paz - 15/Apr/05
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Keelhaul
2 Grainne's Present
-
HS 4b 3
3 Explorer 1 S 4a 16
4 Ordinary Route
-
D 12
5 Hot and Tot
-
HS 4b 5
6 Olde Worde Climb
-
VS 4c 12
7 DEEsire HVS 5a * 9
8 Fifty Lashes, Mister Christian E4 6b ** 1
9 Ghost Ship E3 5c *** 122
10 Mutiny on the Bounty E6 6a ** 2
11 Man Overboard E5 6a ** 3
12 All Hands on Deck E5 6b *  
13 Intensive Scare E2 5c ** 119
14 Baker's Door E2 5b ** 204
15 Keelhaul E2 5c *** 335
16 I See No Ships E4 6b *  
17 The Burning Deck E2 5b *  
18 Springboard E1 5b * 40
  The Big Issue
20 Wage War E3 5c ** 2
21 Ocean Drive E6 6b ** 1
22 Punks in the Tea Room E5 6b ** 6
23 Pulling like a Tractor E6 6b ** 1
24 Pirate Punk
-
E8 6c  
25 The Big Issue E9 6c *** 6
26 The Big Softy E7 6c ***  
27 Crocodile E1 5a  
28 Witches Promise
-
E1 5b  
  Ivory Tower Area
30 The Golden Shower E4 5c  
31 Ivory Tower E2 6a ** 65
32 Agent Orange E3 6a * 5
33 Technically an Eliminate
-
E3 6a  
Climb name Grade
34 Cruel Garden
-
E1 5b 2
35 Perfumed Garden
-
E1 5b 1
36 Gone with the Wimp VS 4b ** 38
37 Off the Heel
-
E1 5c  
38 Off the Wrist E2 5b * 2
39 Sunny Corner HVS 5a *** 128
  South Face
41 Private Investigation
-
E3 5c  
42 Quoin HS 4a * 139
43 Rotating Knives, Yes!
-
E2 5b  
44 Poltergeist HVS 5a ** 220
45 Sub Lieutenant Bastard to You
-
E1 5b 3
46 Telekinesis HVS 5a * 110
47 High Life E1 5b ** 90
48 Preposterous Tales E2 5b *** 203
49 Preposterous Tales Extension 6c  
50 Fairytales 7a  
51 Shaggy Dog Stories
-
E3 5c  
52 Neurosis E2 5c * 4
53 Hydrophobia
-
E6 6b  
54 Frigid Digitis E2 5b * 7
55 Dayglow Saracen E2 5c * 5
56 Exogen E3 6a * 2
57 Wavelength E3 5c ** 23
58 Charlie Don't Surf
-
HVS 5a  
59 The Book HVS 5a * 6
60 Indecision
-
HVS 5a  
61 Dope without a Rope HVS 5a 18
62 Chakademus and Pliers E1 5b * 42
63 Warm Waves VS 4c * 83
64 Wensleydale HVS 5a * 4
65 Ocean Passage VS 4c ** 127
66 Trade Wind E4 6a * 2
Climb name Grade
67 Lundy Road E2 5b * 50
68 Solitaire
-
VS 4b * 29
69 The White Cleft
-
E2 5b * 1
70 Joybringer
-
VS 4b * 61
71 Stop Press
-
E4 6b  
72 The Wild Gene
-
HVS 5a  
73 Skid Mark
-
E2 5b  
74 Shark Fin
-
E2 5c * 10
75 Lute
-
HVS 5a 2
  East Face
77 Comes the Milkman
-
E2 5b  
78 Bosch and Pecks E4 6a  
79 Oggly Boggly
-
HVS 5b 1
80 Contradictionary
-
E5 6a  
81 Verb Crawler
-
E5 6b *  
82 Stumbling English
-
E5 6b *  
83 Thesaurus Rex
-
E6 6b **  
84 Scrabble Rouser
-
E5 6a *  
85 Mexican Lexicon
-
E5 6b  
86 Dictionary Dell
-
E3 5c  
87 Zounds
-
E1 5a 2
  Star Wars
89 Steeplechase E2 5b * 2
90 The Empire Strikes Back E6 6b ** 1
91 Luke Skywalker E5 6b *** 19
92 Star Wars E4 5c *** 226
93 Eat, Drink and Beat Gary E6 6b *** 1
94 Big in America E6 6b *** 8
95 Fax Wars
-
E6 6b ** 1
96 Insignificance E4 6a ** 3
97 The Deerhunter
-
HVS 5a  

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