Climbs 115
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude Tidal
Faces W

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Cardiff University Mountaineering Club enjoying the thrills of sea cliff climbing in Pembrokeshire © Huw Mithan

Crag features

Saddle Head is one of the most popular locations in Pembroke because it contains the largest concentration of D to VS routes and many of them are classic sea cliff outings. Most of the routes follow short corners and walls above an accessible non-tidal platform and four of the routes listed here take wonderful long lines up the tall tidal buttress to the left of the platform.

Approach notes

Park at St Govans and walk west past Huntsman's Leap and Bosherston Head. Approach by abseil or long walk round.

DO NOT belay on the fence of the radar installation at the top of the cliff. You and everyone else may be banned from the site: the Army takes this seriously.

Restricted Access

Please do not belay to the radar station fence or fence posts - this could jeopardize climbing at this site. Night firing normally occurs on Tuesday & Thursday but may also alternate to Monday & Wednesday.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Android and iOS devices.


Guidebooks

Pembroke

This new app version of the Pembroke Rockfax has been significantly updated with 350 extra routes, new geo-located maps and updates to the existing information. The print guide from 2009 had 650 routes and this new app package has nearly 1000! The update includes many easier routes plus extra lines at the main crags covered in the book. It also has extensive deep water soloing coverage with the majority of the crags from Mike Robertson's 2007 Deep Water book added to the mix.
More info

Pembroke

This book from 2009 covers all the classic routes on the most popular crags of Pembroke. It covers the beautiful slab climbing around St. David's and all the best crags of Range East and the Lydstep areas, as far as Mother Carey's Kitchen. The range and variety of routes is enough to keep any climber happy; from those leading moderate grades keen to have a look for the first time, all the way to those who have developed lifelong obsessions for the place!
More info
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Cyclops Eye Area
2 Cooler than August
-
S  
3 The Empty Quarter
-
HS 4b  
4 Hades
-
VS 4c  
5 Slip and Slide
-
VS 4c  
6 Hotter than July
-
E2 5b  
7 Unbelievable Stories
-
E2 5b **  
8 Telling Sories to the Sea
-
E2 5c *  
9 Kipper
-
E1 5b * 2
10 Surform E4 5c  
11 Between the Pub and the Green Sea E1 5b * 1
12 New Route Fever
-
E3 5c  
13 Sharp Practice E1 5b 4
14 Bridge of Size
-
HVS 5a * 12
15 Size Isn't Everything
-
E3 6a  
16 Persuasion E1 5b * 10
17 A Stretch of the Imagination
-
E1 5b  
18 A Grand Day Out
-
HVS 4c ** 16
19 Yoiks
-
HVS 5a 6
20 Whoops
-
HVS 5a * 14
21 So Low
-
VS 4b 2
22 Low Velocity
-
E5 6b  
23 Whoopee
-
E1 5a * 7
24 Whoopee-variation
-
HVS 5a 3
25 Brochette
-
HVS 5a  
26 Tiamat 6a  
27 Fire and Sword 6b  
28 Aegir 6c  
29 Sea Serpent
-
E4 5c  
30 Little Mermaid 5c  
31 Spring Low 5a  
32 Generals 6c  
33 Sweet Chariot
-
HVS 5a  
34 Dunk
-
VS 4b  
35 Blazing Saddles
-
HVS 5b  
36 It's In the Bag Dad
-
E2 5b * 2
37 Saddle Sore
-
E2 5b  
38 Insecurity Blues
-
E2 5c ** 1
39 Stirrup Pump
-
HVS 5a  
40 Red Toupee
-
E2 5c  
Climb name Grade
41 Apes Ma
-
E3 6a  
42 Fast and Bulbous
-
E4 6a  
43 Timeslip
-
E3 5c * 1
44 Down Time 5c  
45 Sundown 6b  
46 New Labour
-
S 2
47 Leaning to the Left
-
HVS 5a 1
48 Spin Doctor
-
E1 5b 1
49 Orima
-
E2 5b 1
50 Barbed Wire Blues
-
E2 5b  
51 Chiropractor Crack
-
E1 1
52 Natural High
-
E4 1
  The Main Cliff
54 Rimoa
-
E4 6a  
55 Illusion
-
HVS 5a 2
56 1988 Aktivator
-
E1 5b  
57 Clint Eastwood
-
E1 5b *  
58 Birdman of Alcatraz
-
VS 4c 1
59 Snap
-
E1 5b  
60 Evening Light E5 6a * 2
61 Underklingon
-
E5 6b  
62 Fluid Connection
-
E3 5c ***  
63 Rantum Scoot
-
E3 5b *  
64 Houlet's Chimney
-
HVS 4c  
  Blue Sky
66 Eaves Dripper HVS 4c ** 121
67 Eaves Dripper Direct Finish HVS 5a ** 2
68 Blue Sky on the Right
-
VS 4c 18
69 Blue Sky VS 4b *** 897
70 Blue Lagoon E1 5b * 13
71 Red Alert
-
HVS 5a 2
72 Landvetter VS 4b ** 105
73 Air Waves
-
VS 4b 3
74 The Fez
-
HVS 5a * 2
  MOD Building
76 Mustapha Bindun
-
VS 4c 7
77 Haze VS 4b * 204
78 Sea Mist HS 4a ** 1733
79 Breaking Wind E1 5b 102
80 Sunset Boulevard HVS 5a * 216
Climb name Grade
81 Pink 'Un VS 5a ** 695
82 Broade
-
HS 4b * 73
83 Infra Red S * 477
84 Drystone
-
HS 4b 66
85 Wetstone S 4b * 586
86 Urchin S 4a * 636
87 Buff VD 423
88 Flake-Quake S 4a * 917
89 Fel Gŵyr D * 549
90 Forgotten Corner HVD * 528
91 Small Beginnings VD * 627
92 Nameless Wall HS 4b * 869
93 Follow the Chalk HS 4b * 461
94 No Hands VS 4b * 605
95 Smilin' Jugs
-
E3 5c 2
96 Get on Lord E2 5b * 91
97 On the Cusp HVS 5a 30
98 Upon a Weather Beaton Cliff VS 4c * 99
99 Final Groove D * 72
100 Dapple Grapple VS 5a * 63
101 Farewell My Brother HVS 5a 12
102 Filmset Fantasy VS 4c 30
103 A Friend Indeed VS 4c 4
104 One's Company HVS 5a 3
  Below the Descent Ridge
106 Gorgeous Grey Groove VS 5a * 101
107 George VS 4b * 20
108 Mickey VS 4c 8
109 Stay Sharp 2 VS 4c * 27
110 101 S 4a * 81
111 Family Sandwich HS 4b * 52
112 Rocky Rides in Style HS 4b * 64
113 Smelly Nelly
-
HS 4b * 33
114 Never in Doust
-
S 4a 13
115 Big Girl's Blouse - Open Neck Variant
-
S 4a 14
116 Toddy
-
D 8
  The Tip
118 Assassination Run
-
E1 5b 1
119 First Time
-
HVS 5a 2
120 Sea Biscuit VS 4b 2
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderators Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteers dannyboy83 and Luke90