Climbs 111
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude Tidal
Faces W

Cardiff University Mountaineering Club enjoying the thrills of sea cliff climbing in Pembrokeshire © Huw Mithan

Crag features

The prominent small headland with radar station at its summit provide a series of cliffs which give a number of fine climbs. The high concentration of lower and middle grade climbs, and its ease of access makes this a very popular area.

Approach notes

DO NOT belay on the fence of the radar installation at the top of the cliff. You and everyone else may be banned from the site: the Army takes this seriously.

Park at St Govans and walk west past Huntsman's Leap and Bosherston Head. Approach by abseil or long walk round.

Access Advice

Please do not belay to the radar station fence or fence posts - this could jeopardize climbing at this site. Night firing normally occurs on Tuesday & Thursday but may also alternate to Monday & Wednesday.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

Pembroke

The famous Pembroke Rockfax has returned with this glorious full-colour version packed with classic routes and all the wonderful features that you have come to expect from Rockfax. It is now twice the size of the old 1995 book and has some of the biggest and clearest photo-topos that have ever been published in a UK guidebook.
More info
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Cyclops Eye Area
2 Cooler than August
-
S  
3 The Empty Quarter
-
HS 4b  
4 Hades
-
VS 4c  
5 Slip and Slide
-
VS 4c  
6 Hotter than July
-
E2 5b  
7 Unbelievable Stories
-
E2 5b **  
8 Telling Sories to the Sea
-
E2 5c *  
9 Kipper
-
E1 5b *  
10 Surform E4 5c  
11 Between the Pub and the Green Sea E1 5b * 1
12 New Route Fever
-
E3 5c  
13 Sharp Practice E1 5b 3
14 Bridge of Size
-
HVS 5a * 13
15 Size Isn't Everything
-
E3 6a  
16 Persuasion E1 5b * 7
17 A Stretch of the Imagination
-
E1 5b  
18 A Grand Day Out
-
HVS 4c ** 14
19 Yoiks
-
HVS 5a 5
20 Whoops
-
HVS 5a * 13
21 So Low
-
VS 4b 1
22 Low Velocity
-
E5 6b  
23 Whoopee
-
E1 5a * 6
24 Whoopee-variation
-
HVS 5a 3
25 Brochette
-
HVS 5a  
26 Tiamat 6a  
27 Fire and Sword 6b  
28 Aegir 6c  
29 Sea Serpent
-
E4 5c  
30 Little Mermaid 5c  
31 Spring Low 5a  
32 Generals 6c  
33 Sweet Chariot
-
HVS 5a  
34 Dunk
-
VS 4b  
35 Blazing Saddles
-
HVS 5b  
36 It's In the Bag Dad
-
E2 5b * 2
37 Saddle Sore
-
E2 5b  
38 Insecurity Blues
-
E2 5c ** 1
39 Stirrup Pump
-
HVS 5a  
40 Red Toupee
-
E2 5c  
41 Apes Ma
-
E3 6a  
42 Fast and Bulbous
-
E4 6a  
43 Timeslip
-
E3 5c * 1
44 Down Time 5c  
45 Sundown 6b  
46 New Labour
-
S 2
47 Leaning to the Left
-
HVS 5a 1
48 Spin Doctor
-
E1 5b 1
49 Orima
-
E2 5b 1
50 Barbed Wire Blues
-
E2 5b  
  The Main Cliff
52 Rimoa
-
E4 6a  
53 Illusion
-
HVS 5a 1
54 1988 Aktivator
-
E1 5b  
55 Clint Eastwood
-
E1 5b *  
56 Birdman of Alcatraz
-
VS 4c 1
57 Snap
-
E1 5b  
58 Evening Light
-
E5 6a *  
59 Underklingon
-
E5 6b  
60 Fluid Connection
-
E3 5c ***  
61 Rantum Scoot
-
E3 5b *  
62 Houlet's Chimney
-
HVS 4c  
  Blue Sky
64 Eaves Dripper HVS 4c ** 98
65 Blue Sky on the Right
-
VS 4c 6
66 Blue Sky VS 4b *** 873
67 Blue Lagoon E1 5b * 11
68 Red Alert
-
HVS 5a  
69 Landvetter VS 4b ** 93
70 Air Waves
-
VS 4b 1
71 The Fez
-
HVS 5a *  
  MOD Building
73 Mustapha Bindun
-
VS 4c 6
74 Haze VS 4b * 183
75 Sea Mist HS 4a ** 1513
76 Breaking Wind E1 5b 90
77 Sunset Boulevard HVS 5a * 203
78 Pink 'Un VS 5a ** 623
79 Broade
-
HS 4b * 66
80 Infra Red S * 419
81 Drystone
-
HS 4b 51
82 Wetstone S 4b * 485
83 Urchin S 4a * 529
84 Buff VD 360
85 Flake-Quake S 4a * 791
86 Fel Gŵyr D * 475
87 Forgotten Corner HVD * 450
88 Small Beginnings VD * 551
89 Nameless Wall HS 4b * 745
90 Follow the Chalk HS 4b * 360
91 No Hands VS 4b * 517
92 Smilin' Jugs
-
E3 5c  
93 Get on Lord E2 5b * 77
94 On the Cusp HVS 5a 16
95 Upon a Weather Beaton Cliff VS 4c 74
96 Final Groove D 54
97 Dapple Grapple HVS 5a * 24
98 Farewell My Brother VS 4c 5
99 Filmset Fantasy
-
HVS 5a * 14
100 A Friend Indeed
-
VS 4c 2
101 One's Company
-
VS 4c 2
  Below the Descent Ridge
103 Gorgeous Grey Groove
-
VS 4c * 66
104 George
-
HS 4b 13
105 Mickey
-
VS 4c 6
106 Stay Sharp 2
-
VS 4c 22
107 101
-
S 4a 52
108 Family Sandwich
-
HS 4b * 33
109 Rocky Rides in Style
-
HS 4b * 36
110 Smelly Nelly
-
HS 4b * 29
111 Never in Doust
-
S 4a 10
112 Big Girl's Blouse - Open Neck Variant
-
S 4a 12
113 Toddy
-
D 6
  The Tip
115 Assassination Run
-
E1 5b 1
116 First Time
-
HVS 5a 2
117 Sea Biscuit * VS 4b 2
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderators Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteers dannyboy83 and Luke90