UKC

Climbs 113
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude Tidal
Faces W

Cardiff University Mountaineering Club enjoying the thrills of sea cliff climbing in Pembrokeshire © Huw Mithan

Crag features

The prominent small headland with radar station at its summit provide a series of cliffs which give a number of fine climbs. The high concentration of lower and middle grade climbs, and its ease of access makes this a very popular area.

Approach notes

DO NOT belay on the fence of the radar installation at the top of the cliff. You and everyone else may be banned from the site: the Army takes this seriously.

Park at St Govans and walk west past Huntsman's Leap and Bosherston Head. Approach by abseil or long walk round.

Access Advice

Please do not belay to the radar station fence or fence posts - this could jeopardize climbing at this site. Night firing normally occurs on Tuesday & Thursday but may also alternate to Monday & Wednesday.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

Pembroke

The famous Pembroke Rockfax has returned with this glorious full-colour version packed with classic routes and all the wonderful features that you have come to expect from Rockfax. It is now twice the size of the old 1995 book and has some of the biggest and clearest photo-topos that have ever been published in a UK guidebook.
More info
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Cyclops Eye Area
2 Cooler than August
-
S  
3 The Empty Quarter
-
HS 4b  
4 Hades
-
VS 4c  
5 Slip and Slide
-
VS 4c  
6 Hotter than July
-
E2 5b  
7 Unbelievable Stories
-
E2 5b **  
8 Telling Sories to the Sea
-
E2 5c *  
9 Kipper
-
E1 5b * 2
10 Surform E4 5c  
11 Between the Pub and the Green Sea E1 5b * 1
12 New Route Fever
-
E3 5c  
13 Sharp Practice E1 5b 4
14 Bridge of Size
-
HVS 5a * 11
15 Size Isn't Everything
-
E3 6a  
16 Persuasion E1 5b * 10
17 A Stretch of the Imagination
-
E1 5b  
18 A Grand Day Out
-
HVS 4c ** 15
19 Yoiks
-
HVS 5a 6
20 Whoops
-
HVS 5a * 14
21 So Low
-
VS 4b 2
22 Low Velocity
-
E5 6b  
23 Whoopee
-
E1 5a * 7
24 Whoopee-variation
-
HVS 5a 3
25 Brochette
-
HVS 5a  
26 Tiamat 6a  
27 Fire and Sword 6b  
28 Aegir 6c  
29 Sea Serpent
-
E4 5c  
30 Little Mermaid 5c  
31 Spring Low 5a  
32 Generals 6c  
33 Sweet Chariot
-
HVS 5a  
34 Dunk
-
VS 4b  
35 Blazing Saddles
-
HVS 5b  
36 It's In the Bag Dad
-
E2 5b * 2
37 Saddle Sore
-
E2 5b  
38 Insecurity Blues
-
E2 5c ** 1
39 Stirrup Pump
-
HVS 5a  
40 Red Toupee
-
E2 5c  
Climb name Grade
41 Apes Ma
-
E3 6a  
42 Fast and Bulbous
-
E4 6a  
43 Timeslip
-
E3 5c * 1
44 Down Time 5c  
45 Sundown 6b  
46 New Labour
-
S 2
47 Leaning to the Left
-
HVS 5a 1
48 Spin Doctor
-
E1 5b 1
49 Orima
-
E2 5b 1
50 Barbed Wire Blues
-
E2 5b  
51 Natural High *
-
E4 1
52 Chiropractor Crack *
-
E1 1
  The Main Cliff
54 Rimoa
-
E4 6a  
55 Illusion
-
HVS 5a 2
56 1988 Aktivator
-
E1 5b  
57 Clint Eastwood
-
E1 5b *  
58 Birdman of Alcatraz
-
VS 4c 1
59 Snap
-
E1 5b  
60 Evening Light
-
E5 6a *  
61 Underklingon
-
E5 6b  
62 Fluid Connection
-
E3 5c ***  
63 Rantum Scoot
-
E3 5b *  
64 Houlet's Chimney
-
HVS 4c  
  Blue Sky
66 Eaves Dripper HVS 4c ** 103
67 Blue Sky on the Right
-
VS 4c 7
68 Blue Sky VS 4b *** 918
69 Blue Lagoon E1 5b * 11
70 Red Alert
-
HVS 5a  
71 Landvetter VS 4b ** 78
72 Air Waves
-
VS 4b 1
73 The Fez
-
HVS 5a *  
  MOD Building
75 Mustapha Bindun
-
VS 4c 6
76 Haze VS 4b * 186
77 Sea Mist HS 4a ** 1481
78 Breaking Wind E1 5b 91
79 Sunset Boulevard HVS 5a * 200
80 Pink 'Un VS 5a ** 624
Climb name Grade
81 Broade
-
HS 4b * 69
82 Infra Red S * 428
83 Drystone
-
HS 4b 53
84 Wetstone S 4b * 500
85 Urchin S 4a * 550
86 Buff VD 366
87 Flake-Quake S 4a * 810
88 Fel Gŵyr D * 478
89 Forgotten Corner HVD * 462
90 Small Beginnings VD * 549
91 Nameless Wall HS 4b * 760
92 Follow the Chalk HS 4b * 383
93 No Hands VS 4b * 530
94 Smilin' Jugs
-
E3 5c  
95 Get on Lord E2 5b * 76
96 On the Cusp HVS 5a 17
97 Upon a Weather Beaton Cliff VS 4c 77
98 Final Groove D 57
99 Dapple Grapple HVS 5a * 33
100 Farewell My Brother VS 4c 8
101 Filmset Fantasy
-
HVS 5a * 19
102 A Friend Indeed
-
VS 4c 2
103 One's Company
-
VS 4c 2
  Below the Descent Ridge
105 Gorgeous Grey Groove
-
VS 4c * 75
106 George
-
HS 4b 15
107 Mickey
-
VS 4c 5
108 Stay Sharp 2
-
VS 4c 23
109 101
-
S 4a 60
110 Family Sandwich
-
HS 4b * 35
111 Rocky Rides in Style
-
HS 4b * 42
112 Smelly Nelly
-
HS 4b * 29
113 Never in Doust
-
S 4a 10
114 Big Girl's Blouse - Open Neck Variant
-
S 4a 12
115 Toddy
-
D 6
  The Tip
117 Assassination Run
-
E1 5b 1
118 First Time
-
HVS 5a 2
119 Sea Biscuit * VS 4b 2
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderators Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteers dannyboy83 and Luke90