Climbs 98
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude Tidal
Faces SW

Nick Gillet on Wishful Thinking © henry castle

Crag features

This prominent headland has a series of fine routes on very compact grey rock. For years it has had a well-deserved reputation for desperate hard routes. Even the regrading of most of the old E3s up to E4s in 1995 didn't do much to change this fact!

As with most headlands which project out into the sea, this one can be windy and cold. Avoid it in rough seas. Contrary to the impression given in the old guide, The Castle is affected by tides.

Deep Water Solos - Most recently, the East Face has seen many of its routes ascended in DWS style, as a big tide will bring the security of deep water below many of the routes - the cruxes can be as low as 6m above the ocean. 

Approach notes

Tidal in most parts, some routes only accessible at low tide.

 

 

Access Advice

Night firing normally occurs on Tues & Thurs but can alternate to Mon & Wed.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 1 August

Reason: Nesting Birds

The restriction applies to all of the East Blowhole. (Routes; 'The Crystal Ozone', to 'Chiaroscuro' ). The West, South and East Faces are not affected by this restriction.

The route "White Knight" on the Landward face is restricted due to nesting Choughs.  This is lifted early from July 10th 2017.

 

 

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

Pembroke

The famous Pembroke Rockfax has returned with this glorious full-colour version packed with classic routes and all the wonderful features that you have come to expect from Rockfax. It is now twice the size of the old 1995 book and has some of the biggest and clearest photo-topos that have ever been published in a UK guidebook.
More info
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  West Face
2 Swelter
-
E1 5a 2
3 Sobers * VS 4c 2
4 Amnesia VS 4c 5
5 Garfield VS 4c 22
6 Time and Tide
-
HS 4b 35
7 Lifeboat Drill
-
VS 4b 29
8 Spink VS 5a * 31
9 Caribbean Cruise
-
S 4a * 16
10 Normal, the World's Cutest Kitten S 4a 9
11 Thornback
-
HS 4a 3
12 Odie VS 4b 3
13 Pina Colada
-
S 4a  
14 Black Russian
-
S 1
15 Nursery Fizz D 1
16 Between the Sheets S 4b 2
17 White Lady S 4a 9
18 Sarsparilla Sunset HVS 5a 55
19 Tequila Sunrise E1 5b 7
20 Kate
-
VS 4c 14
21 Decree Nisi
-
HS 4a 8
22 Too Little VS 4c * 99
23 Seulement HVS 5a * 15
24 Rizla HVS 5a * 6
25 Atmospheric Tent HVS 5a * 41
26 Atmospheric Tent Direct E1 5c * 14
27 Abseil Groove S 4a * 44
28 Davy Crocket HVS 5a * 73
29 Acropolis E3 5c 1
  South Face
31 Too Much Pressure E1 5a *** 295
32 Out for the Count E4 6a *** 76
33 Under the Influence E4 6a *** 102
34 Throne of Blood E7 6c *  
35 Over the Hill E4 6a ** 42
36 Cripple Creek E2 5a 1
37 Downward Bound E4 6a *** 94
38 Heat of the Moment E5 6b *** 13
39 Chasing Shade E5 6b *** 3
40 Vista E2 5c ** 21
  East Face
42 Bastille HVS 5a  
43 Kramer vs Kramer E1 5b * 7
44 Daze of the Weak E6 6b *  
45 Anniversary Waltz E3 5c ** 14
46 Barbecuing Traditions E5 6b ** 1
47 Critical Masses E4 6a ** 4
48 Vengeance E4 6a **  
49 Dead Choughed E6 6b ***  
50 Trapdoor E2 5b *  
51 Black Man Ray E4 6a ** 2
52 Wishful Thinking E1 5b *** 133
53 Tragedy and Mystery E4 6a ** 7
  The Landward Face
55 White Knight E3 5c  
56 Brother Beyond E3 5c 2
57 Portcullis HVS * 5
58 Heat Treatment E5 6a ** 2
59 Hot, Ready and Panting E5 6a **  
60 Lone Archer E4 5c 4
61 African and White *
-
E4 6a **  
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer dannyboy83