Climbs 98
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 3m a.s.l
Faces SW

Nick Gillet on Wishful Thinking © henry castle

Crag features

This prominent headland has a series of fine routes on very compact grey rock. For years it has had a well-deserved reputation for desperate hard routes. Even the regrading of most of the old E3s up to E4s in 1995 didn't do much to change this fact!

As with most headlands which project out into the sea, this one can be windy and cold. Avoid it in rough seas. Contrary to the impression given in the old guide, The Castle is affected by tides.

Deep Water Solos - Most recently, the East Face has seen many of its routes ascended in DWS style, as a big tide will bring the security of deep water below many of the routes - the cruxes can be as low as 6m above the ocean. 

Approach notes

Tidal in most parts, some routes only accessible at low tide.



Restricted Access

Night firing normally occurs on Tues & Thurs but can alternate to Mon & Wed.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).



The famous Pembroke Rockfax has returned with this glorious full-colour version packed with classic routes and all the wonderful features that you have come to expect from Rockfax. It is now twice the size of the old 1995 book and has some of the biggest and clearest photo-topos that have ever been published in a UK guidebook.
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 West Face 
E1 5a 2
3Sobers *VS 4c 2
4AmnesiaVS 4c 3
5GarfieldVS 4c 18
6Time and Tide
HS 4b 37
7Lifeboat Drill
VS 4b 27
8SpinkVS 5a *31
9Caribbean Cruise
S 4a *17
10Normal, the World's Cutest KittenS 4a 9
HS 4a 3
12OdieVS 4b 3
13Pina Colada
S 4a  
14Black Russian
S 1
15Nursery FizzD 1
16Between the SheetsS 4b 2
17White LadyS 4a 9
18Sarsparilla SunsetHVS 5a 52
19Tequila SunriseE1 5b 7
VS 4c 14
21Decree Nisi
HS 4a 6
22Too LittleVS 4c *98
23SeulementHVS 5a *13
24RizlaHVS 5a *6
25Atmospheric TentHVS 5a *40
26Atmospheric Tent DirectE1 5c *14
27Abseil GrooveS 4a *40
28Davy CrocketHVS 5a *68
29AcropolisE3 5c 1
 South Face 
31Too Much PressureE1 5a ***268
32Out for the CountE4 6a ***70
33Under the InfluenceE4 6a ***93
34Throne of BloodE7 6c * 
35Over the HillE4 6a **32
36Cripple CreekE2 5a 1
37Downward BoundE4 6a ***85
38Heat of the MomentE5 6b ***9
39Chasing ShadeE5 6b ***3
40VistaE2 5c **21
 East Face 
42BastilleHVS 5a  
43Kramer vs KramerE1 5b *3
44Daze of the WeakE6 6b * 
45Anniversary WaltzE3 5c **14
46Barbecuing TraditionsE5 6b ** 
47Critical MassesE4 6a **3
48VengeanceE4 6a ** 
49Dead ChoughedE6 6b *** 
50TrapdoorE2 5b * 
51Black Man RayE4 6a **2
52Wishful ThinkingE1 5b ***123
53Tragedy and MysteryE4 6a **6
 The Landward Face 
55White KnightE3 5c  
56Brother BeyondE3 5c 2
57PortcullisHVS *3
58Heat TreatmentE5 6a **2
59Hot, Ready and PantingE5 6a ** 
60Lone ArcherE4 5c 4
61African and White *
E4 6a ** 
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer dannyboy83