Please refrain from climbing outside

Due to the ongoing spread of Covid-19, please abstain from climbing outside.

At UKC we are all climbers and we understand the strong urge to be outdoors as the weather is finally improving, but we feel this is no longer socially acceptable. You can read our statement here.

We have suspended the UKC Logbooks Top Ascents and Conditions pages and we will no longer accept ascents dated from 23rd March onwards. You can still upload your historic ascents.

UKClimbing Team

Climbs 107
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 4m a.s.l
Faces SW

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Nick Gillet on Wishful Thinking © henry castle

Crag features

This prominent headland has a series of fine routes on very compact grey rock. For years it has had a well-deserved reputation for desperate hard routes. Even the regrading of most of the old E3s up to E4s in 1995 didn't do much to change this fact!

As with most headlands which project out into the sea, this one can be windy and cold. Avoid it in rough seas. Contrary to the impression given in the old guide, The Castle is affected by tides.

Deep Water Solos - Most recently, the East Face has seen many of its routes ascended in DWS style, as a big tide will bring the security of deep water below many of the routes - the cruxes can be as low as 6m above the ocean. 

Approach notes

Approach from St. Govan's in 20 mins.

Restricted Access

Night firing normally occurs on Tues & Thurs but can alternate to Mon & Wed.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 1 August

Reason: Nesting Birds

The restriction applies to all of the East Blowhole. (Routes; 'The Crystal Ozone', to 'Chiaroscuro' ). The West, South and East Faces are not affected by this restriction.

The route "White Knight" on the Landward face is restricted due to nesting Choughs.  This restriction has been lifted early on June 26th for 2019

 

 

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Android and iOS devices.


Guidebooks

Pembroke

This new app version of the Pembroke Rockfax has been significantly updated with 350 extra routes, new geo-located maps and updates to the existing information. The print guide from 2009 had 650 routes and this new app package has nearly 1000! The update includes many easier routes plus extra lines at the main crags covered in the book. It also has extensive deep water soloing coverage with the majority of the crags from Mike Robertson's 2007 Deep Water book added to the mix.
More info

Pembroke

This book from 2009 covers all the classic routes on the most popular crags of Pembroke. It covers the beautiful slab climbing around St. David's and all the best crags of Range East and the Lydstep areas, as far as Mother Carey's Kitchen. The range and variety of routes is enough to keep any climber happy; from those leading moderate grades keen to have a look for the first time, all the way to those who have developed lifelong obsessions for the place!
More info
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  West Face
2 The Final Cut
-
HVS 5b  
3 Sweat
-
E3 5c  
4 Swelter
-
E1 5a * 3
5 Gormenghast
-
HVS 5a  
6 Titus Groan
-
E1 5b  
7 Don't Be Afraid of the Dark
-
HVS 4c  
8 Dubious Diversions
-
E3 5c  
9 The Archer
-
HVS 5a  
10 Longbow
-
E1 5b *  
11 Crossbow
-
E2 5c *  
12 Lancet
-
HVS 5a  
13 Stag Night
-
E2 5c  
  Spink Wall
15 Knights in Tights
-
E2 5c  
16 Lean Machine Killing Machine
-
E2 5c  
17 Hamlet Moments
-
VS 4c  
18 Sobers
-
VS 4c 2
19 Amnesia
-
VS 4c 5
20 Garfield
-
VS 4c 24
21 Time and Tide
-
HS 4b * 35
22 Wait for No Woman
-
VS 4b  
23 Lifeboat Drill
-
VS 4c 30
24 Spink
-
VS 5a * 35
25 Caribbean Cruise
-
HS 4a * 16
26 The Cuter Cat
-
HS 4b  
27 Normal, the World's Cutest Kitten S 4a 9
28 Paddy Paws
-
E1 5b  
29 Thornback
-
HS 4a 3
30 Odie
-
VS 4b 5
  Southwest Face
32 Black Velvet
-
HVS 5a  
33 Pina Colada
-
S 4a  
34 Black Russian
-
S 1
35 Nursery Fizz S 1
36 Harvey Wallbanger
-
S  
37 Between the Sheets
-
S 4b 2
38 White Lady
-
S 4a 8
Climb name Grade
39 Tequila Sunrise
-
E1 5b 7
40 The Twilight Finish
-
E1 5c *  
41 Sarsparilla Sunset HVS 5a ** 61
42 The Saga Lout
-
E1 5b * 1
43 Over and Out HS 4b  
44 Kate
-
VS 4c 15
45 Decree Nisi
-
HS 4a 9
46 Anna
-
VD  
  South Face
48 Too Little HVS 5a * 112
49 Too Short HVS 5a 2
50 Seulement HVS 5a * 20
51 Rizla HVS 5a * 6
52 Atmospheric Tent HVS 5a * 53
53 Atmospheric Tent Direct
-
E1 5c 18
54 Calamity Jane E3 6a 2
55 Abseil Groove S 4a * 48
56 Davy Crocket HVS 5a * 98
57 Acropolis E3 5c 1
58 Too Much Pressure E1 5a ** 363
59 Out for the Count E4 6a *** 98
60 Under the Influence E4 6a *** 129
61 Throne of Blood E7 6c *  
62 Over the Hill E4 6a ** 48
63 Cripple Creek E2 5a 1
64 Downward Bound E4 6a *** 109
65 Heat of the Moment E5 6b *** 15
66 Chasing Shade E5 6b ** 3
67 Vista E2 5c * 26
  East Face
69 Bastille HVS 5a  
70 Kramer vs Kramer E1 5b * 11
71 Daze of the Weak E6 6b *  
72 Autonomy
-
E4 6b  
73 Anniversary Waltz E3 5c ** 14
74 Barbecuing Traditions E5 6b ** 1
75 Churasco 7a  
76 Critical Masses E4 6a ** 9
Climb name Grade
77 Eye Candy 6b+  
78 Aruba 7a  
79 Dead Choughed E6 6b *** 1
80 Vengeance E4 6a **  
81 Trap Door E2 5b * 7
82 Black Man Ray E4 6a ** 2
83 End of Apartheid 7a  
84 Attic Traumas
-
E4 6b  
85 Wishful Thinking E1 5b *** 132
86 Tragedy and Mystery E4 6a ** 11
87 Working with Fire and Steel
-
E6 6b *  
88 African and White
-
E4 6a **  
89 Fractures of the Deep
-
E5 6a **  
90 Humility not Hostility 6c  
91 Khartoum Characters 6c+  
92 Fade to Black
-
E5 6a *  
93 Rhapsody in Black
-
E5 6a *  
94 Crusader
-
E4 5c *  
95 Black Awareness
-
E6 6b *  
96 Black Knight
-
E4 6a *  
97 The Keep
-
E2 5b  
  The East Blowhole
99 The Crystal Ozone
-
E2 5a  
100 Ourobouros
-
E4 6a  
101 Chiaroscuro
-
E4 6a **  
  The Landward Face
103 Ali Baba 7a+ **  
104 White Knight
-
E3 5c  
105 Brother Beyond
-
E3 5c * 2
106 Portcullis HVS 5a * 4
107 Heat Treatment
-
E5 6a ** 6
108 Hot, Ready, and Panting
-
E5 6a **  
109 Lone Archer
-
E4 5c ** 5
110 The Girl in the Newsagent's Mate
-
E2 5c  
111 The Night of the Jellyfish 7a  
112 Back to the Future
-
HVS 4c  
113 Wombats
-
VS 4c  
114 The Girl in the Newsagent's
-
E1 5b  

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