Climbs 98
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude Tidal
Faces SW

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Nick Gillet on Wishful Thinking © henry castle

Crag features

This prominent headland has a series of fine routes on very compact grey rock. For years it has had a well-deserved reputation for desperate hard routes. Even the regrading of most of the old E3s up to E4s in 1995 didn't do much to change this fact!

As with most headlands which project out into the sea, this one can be windy and cold. Avoid it in rough seas. Contrary to the impression given in the old guide, The Castle is affected by tides.

Deep Water Solos - Most recently, the East Face has seen many of its routes ascended in DWS style, as a big tide will bring the security of deep water below many of the routes - the cruxes can be as low as 6m above the ocean. 

Approach notes

Tidal in most parts, some routes only accessible at low tide.

 

 

Access Advice

Night firing normally occurs on Tues & Thurs but can alternate to Mon & Wed.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 1 August

Reason: Nesting Birds

The restriction applies to all of the East Blowhole. (Routes; 'The Crystal Ozone', to 'Chiaroscuro' ). The West, South and East Faces are not affected by this restriction.

The route "White Knight" on the Landward face is restricted due to nesting Choughs.  This restriction has been lifted early on June 26th for 2019

 

 

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Android and iOS devices.


Guidebooks

Pembroke

This new app version of the Pembroke Rockfax has been significantly updated with 350 extra routes, new geo-located maps and updates to the existing information. The print guide from 2009 had 650 routes and this new app package has nearly 1000! The update includes many easier routes plus extra lines at the main crags covered in the book. It also has extensive deep water soloing coverage with the majority of the crags from Mike Robertson's 2007 Deep Water book added to the mix.
More info

Pembroke

This book from 2009 covers all the classic routes on the most popular crags of Pembroke. It covers the beautiful slab climbing around St. David's and all the best crags of Range East and the Lydstep areas, as far as Mother Carey's Kitchen. The range and variety of routes is enough to keep any climber happy; from those leading moderate grades keen to have a look for the first time, all the way to those who have developed lifelong obsessions for the place!
More info
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  West Face
2 Swelter
-
E1 5a 3
3 Sobers VS 4c 2
4 Amnesia VS 4c 5
5 Garfield VS 4c 24
6 Time and Tide
-
HS 4b 35
7 Lifeboat Drill
-
VS 4b 30
8 Spink VS 5a * 35
9 Caribbean Cruise
-
S 4a * 16
10 Normal, the World's Cutest Kitten S 4a 9
11 Thornback
-
HS 4a 3
12 Odie VS 4b 5
13 Pina Colada
-
S 4a  
14 Black Russian
-
S 1
15 Nursery Fizz D 1
16 Between the Sheets S 4b 2
17 White Lady S 4a 8
  Southwest Face
19 Sarsparilla Sunset HVS 5a ** 61
20 Over and Out HS 4b  
21 Tequila Sunrise E1 5b 7
22 Kate
-
VS 4c 15
Climb name Grade
23 Decree Nisi
-
HS 4a 9
24 Too Little HVS 5a * 112
25 Too Short HVS 5a 2
26 Seulement HVS 5a * 20
27 Rizla HVS 5a * 6
28 Atmospheric Tent HVS 5a * 53
29 Atmospheric Tent Direct
-
E1 5c 18
30 Calamity Jane E3 6a 2
31 Abseil Groove S 4a * 48
32 Davy Crocket HVS 5a * 97
33 Acropolis E3 5c 1
34 The Saga Lout *
-
E1 5b * 1
  South Face
36 Too Much Pressure E1 5a ** 358
37 Out for the Count E4 6a *** 97
38 Under the Influence E4 6a *** 127
39 Throne of Blood E7 6c *  
40 Over the Hill E4 6a ** 47
41 Cripple Creek E2 5a 1
42 Downward Bound E4 6a *** 108
43 Heat of the Moment E5 6b *** 15
44 Chasing Shade E5 6b ** 3
Climb name Grade
45 Vista E2 5c * 26
  East Face
47 Bastille HVS 5a  
48 Kramer vs Kramer E1 5b * 11
49 Daze of the Weak E6 6b *  
50 Anniversary Waltz E3 5c ** 14
51 Barbecuing Traditions E5 6b ** 1
52 Critical Masses E4 6a ** 9
53 Vengeance E4 6a **  
54 Dead Choughed E6 6b *** 1
55 Trapdoor E2 5b * 7
56 Black Man Ray E4 6a ** 2
57 Wishful Thinking E1 5b *** 131
58 Tragedy and Mystery E4 6a ** 11
59 African and White
-
E4 6a **  
  The Landward Face
61 White Knight E3 5c  
62 Brother Beyond E3 5c 2
63 Portcullis HVS * 4
64 Heat Treatment E5 6a ** 6
65 Hot, Ready and Panting E5 6a **  
66 Lone Archer E4 5c 5
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer dannyboy83