Climbs 27
Rocktype Rhyolite
Altitude 222m a.s.l
Faces E

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Mike Wilson Close To The Edge © Stuart Wood

Crag features

A superb and impressive crag with a good selection of Extremes - Totalitarian (E1), Empire (E3), Medlar (E3/4), Blitzkreig (E4), Gates of Delirium (E4), Peels of Laughter (E5), Creation (E5) and Das Kapital (E6).

Das Kapital has been re-equipped with 3 new pegs and 2 new threads. An in situ wire helps to protect the tricky top pitch.

Medlar, now E4, is clean.

Close To The Edge at E3 is a great route; link the first 2 pitches together then lower off.

Empire has a new peg on the top pitch and a new belay after the first. The 1st pitch of Totalitarian will lead to it as the original 1st pitch is overgrown. Lower off is in situ at top of the crag above Empire.

Blitzkreig has been brushed clean and is equipped with a lower off at the top of the crag.

 

Many of the routes on the steep left hand side of the crag stay clean despite little traffic. 

 

Be wary of ticks on the approach and descent and it can get midgey so a head net is wise in the summer.

Anarchist is very vegetated with a copious amount of moss plus heather and other stuff especially in the lower pitches.

Approach notes

Seasonal Restrictions apply from the 1st March to the 30th June due to nesting birds. Park near the Thirlmere Dam, 15 minutes steeply uphill to the crag. Due to lots of large fallen trees in early 2018 the approach time is now greatly increased. Access was very duifficult in early July. The recommended public footpath through the trees was marked as closed and was almost impossible to navigate. The forestry track was also badly blocked in many places. The car park at the dam is designated as closed by United Utilities althopugh the gate was open.

Scary!
DaveR - 18/Dec/02
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Polytruk
-
E4 6b * 5
2 Anarchist
-
HS 4b ** 45
3 The Apocrypha
-
VS 5a 2
4 Creation
-
E5 6a ** 7
5 Stir Crazy
-
E1 5b 2
6 Empire E3 6a *** 57
7 Totalitarian E1 5c *** 204
Climb name Grade
8 Common Man
-
E2 5c * 7
9 Communist Convert
-
VS 4b ** 100
10 Blitzkrieg
-
E4 6a *** 18
11 The Gates of Delerium E4 6a *** 46
12 Close to the Edge E3 5c * 8
13 The Medlar E4 6a *** 35
14 Relayer
-
E4 6b * 4
Climb name Grade
15 Peels of Laughter
-
E5 6b *** 9
16 The Raven Traverse
-
VS 4c ** 4
17 The First Circle
-
E3 5c **  
18 Das Kapital E6 6b *** 5
19 Genesis
-
VS 8

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