Climbs 207
Rocktype Rhyolite
Altitude 707m a.s.l
Faces N

A summer evening beneath Cloggy © Nicholas Livesey

Crag features

Called "the best crag in the world" by Leo Houlding, Clogwyn Du'r Arddu (Cloggy) deserves a special place in the history of Welsh climbing. It has all-time classics in just about every grade, and is home to famed routes such as Indian Face and Master's Wall. Very long (up to 300m+), mostly serious, routes in an alpine setting. Some loose rock - an integral part in the Cloggy climbing experience.

Approach notes

Drive to Llanberis and go up the narrow road opposite the Royal Victoria Hotel. Park somewhere here - parking is no longer available at Hafodty Newidd as the farmer padlocks the gates. (Thanks for info, Bob Wightman.) You can drive past the Youth Hostel (turn up past the Spar shop) and park in small laybys after the tarmac. Don't block access. A path leads from this track, Bwlch Maesgwm, across the valley to just before Hafodty Newidd.

From Haftoy Newydd walk up the railway and the track until well past Half Way House, and where the track steepens, keep right along the miner's track which leads to the old copper mines, and continues as a small path contouring the cliff. Halfway House is now open for refreshments - though sadly not home-made lemonade, rather a strong trade in ice cream and Slush Puppies.

Rockfax App

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Guidebooks

North Wales Climbs

North Wales Climbs covers the best climbing from the whole of this huge and varied area. The book is modelled on the very popular West Country Climbs which set a new standard for selected climb guidebooks back in 2010. It contains all the routes from the 2010 publication North Wales Classics and many more routes and areas, with expanded descriptions and much bigger photo-topos. The book covers all the major mountain crags from Llanberis Pass, to Cloggy; and from Ogwen to the Carneddau. It also includes the Llanberis Slate quarries, Tremadog, the Moelwyns, the Gwynant Valley, Mid-Wales, Gogarth and the North Coast Limestone.
More info

North Wales Classics

A significant addition to the Rockfax stable; North Wales Classics is a pocket-sized guide packs in hundreds of superb routes throughout the mountains of Snowdonia. From Tremadog to Tryfan, and everywhere in between, the book covers mid-grade routes on the best crags and features top-notch photo-topos and inspirational action shots taking you where you want to go.
More info
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  The Far Far East Buttress
2 Boomerang Gully
-
II 1
3 Boomerang Gully Direct
-
IV *  
4 Boomerang Left-hand
-
E2 5b * 1
5 Boomerang
-
E1 5b * 1
6 Soledad Brother
-
E1 5b  
7 Little Eastern
-
VS 4c  
8 Bywynog Chimney
-
E1 5b 1
9 Brwynog Chimney
-
V *  
10 The Arete Start
-
IV  
11 The Key
-
E3 5c 1
12 Sinistra
-
E3 5b  
13 Woubits Left-hand
-
E3 6a * 3
14 Archaeopteryx
-
E5 6b *  
15 Woubits
-
E2 5b ** 34
16 Hazy Days
-
E4 6a ** 2
17 The Mostest
-
E2 5c ** 38
18 Luaka
-
E4 6a *  
19 Naddyn Ddu
-
E2 5c  
20 The Far East Girdle
-
E3 5c  
21 The Sceptre
-
E1 5c * 3
22 The Orb
-
VS 4c * 1
23 The Bauble
-
VS 4c  
24 Slurp
-
HVS 5a *  
25 The Republican
-
HVS 5a  
26 Silver Machine
-
VIII **  
27 Rumpelstiltskin
-
E2 5c  
28 Mostest Direct Start
-
E3 5c  
29 Mostest Direct Start
-
VI  
30 Chicane
-
E2 5b  
31 Stomach Traverse E2 5a  
32 Jublilee Climb
-
S *  
33 Jubilee Climb
-
V *** 7
34 Route 68
-
HVS 4c  
35 Land of Hope and Glory
-
E2 5c *  
36 Gormod E2 5b * 1
37 Human Touch
-
E4 6a * 1
38 Little Krapper
-
E3 5c * 8
39 Feeding Shmae
-
E4 6a ** 4
40 Camus
-
S 1
41 Camus
-
V * 2
42 East Gully
-
VD * 5
43 East Gully
-
IV ** 1
  The Pinnacle
45 Beanland's
-
HVS 5a  
46 East Gully Wall
-
E1 5c 7
47 Death and The Maiden
-
E3 5c * 1
48 Shrike E2 5c *** 333
49 The Rumour
-
E2 5b  
50 East Gully Groove
-
HVS 5b 21
51 The Axe E4 6a *** 231
52 Moonlight Shadow
-
E4 6a  
53 The Croak
-
E1 5b  
54 Easy Rider
-
HVS 5a * 4
55 Gargoyle HVS 5a 5
56 Aries
-
HVS 4c * 8
57 Margins of the Mind
-
E7 6c *** 1
58 It Will Be Alright on the Night
-
E7 6b ** 3
59 Psycho KIller
-
E6 6b ** 1
60 Octo E1 5b ** 121
61 The Hand Traverse E2 5c ** 51
62 Authentic Desire E7 6b ** 6
63 Shaft of a Dead Man
-
E7 6b *** 1
64 Fecundity Ridge
-
E7 6b **  
65 Desperate Straights
-
E4 6a  
66 Pinnacle Arete E2 5b ** 83
67 Taurus
-
E4 5c 5
68 Spillikin
-
E1 5b * 9
69 Vanishing Giraffes
-
E4 5c  
70 Guinevere
-
E2 5b 2
71 Pinnacle Flake
-
E2 5b * 22
72 The Spire
-
E3 5b 4
73 The Spire Direct
-
E4 5c ** 3
74 Virgo
-
E4 6a  
75 Direct Finish to the East Buttress
-
HS 4b ** 14
76 The Pinnacle Girdle
-
E3 5c *** 4
  The East Buttress
78 Sunset Crack VS 5a * 43
79 Llithrig E1 5c *** 279
80 Serth E2 5c ** 33
81 Serth Direct E3 6a ** 2
82 The Leech
-
E4 5c ** 7
83 Opening Bid
-
E5 6b * 2
84 Pistolero E5 6b *** 5
85 Capricorn
-
E2 5c ** 15
86 Pigott's Climb HVS 5a ** 121
87 Wall Variations
-
E2 5b 1
88 Trapeze
-
E5 6a * 3
89 The Sweeper
-
E2 5c * 9
90 Chimney Route
-
VS 4c * 34
91 Diglyph HVS 5b * 29
92 Daurigol E3 6a ** 39
93 Dinas in the Oven E7 6b **  
94 Cathedral Graffiti
-
E7 6b *  
95 Great Wall E4 6a *** 376
96 Face Mecca
-
E9 6c ***  
97 Womb Bits E5 6b *** 25
98 A Midsummer Night's Dream E6 6a *** 25
99 West Indian Face
-
E8 6b * 1
100 Spreadeagle
-
E4 5c * 3
101 The Indian Face E9 6c *** 28
102 Master's Wall
-
E7 6b *  
103 The Rite of Spring E7 6b ***  
104 The Arete Finish
-
E4 5c * 6
105 The Banyan Tree
-
E6 6b *  
106 Blancmange Sandwich
-
E4 6a * 1
107 Jelly Roll E2 5b *** 161
108 November E3 5c *** 78
109 Vember E1 5b *** 281
110 Medi
-
E5 6a 3
111 Curving Crack VS 4c ** 317
112 Curving Arete
-
E4 5c * 12
113 The Troach E2 5b *** 250
114 Purr-Spire Direct
-
E6 6b *** 3
115 The Purr-Spire
-
E5 6a ** 4
116 Pedestal Crack HVS 5a ** 140
117 The Organ Flagellator
-
E4 5c * 1
118 Scorpio E2 5b ** 74
119 Silhouette E2 5c *** 160
120 The Corner HVS 5b *** 220
121 Bold Man, Big Willie
-
E4 6a *  
122 The Shadow
-
E3 5c * 8
123 Mordor
-
E4 6a ** 27
124 Terrace Crack
-
VS 4c 11
125 The East Buttress Girdle
-
HVS 5a 3
126 Rupert Road
-
E6 6b *  
127 Eastern Terrace
-
M ** 50
128 Eastern Terrace
-
I/II ** 13
129 Eastern Terrace w/ Direct Start
-
IV ** 1
  Middle Rock
131 Moonshine HVS 5a  
132 Birthday Crack
-
HVS 5a * 4
133 Bridge Groove
-
E1 5a 1
134 Arete Alternative
-
E1 5b  
  The West Buttress
136 Prominus
-
E1 5a  
137 Adam's Rib
-
VS 4b 1
138 East Wall Climb
-
VD 1
139 Illegal Eagle
-
E3 5b  
140 Flintstone Wall
-
E1 5a  
141 Left Edge E1 5a * 33
142 The Boulder E1 5a *** 119
143 Gemini
-
E4 5c ** 3
144 The Boldest E4 5c *** 70
145 The Direct Finish (The Boldest) E3 5c ** 2
146 The Boulderer
-
E5 5c * 2
147 The Black Cleft E2 5c ** 7
148 The Black Cleft VII *** 16
149 Longland's Climb VS 4c ** 236
150 Sheaf VS 4c ** 143
151 Gecko Groove
-
E3 5b 13
152 Narrow Slab
-
HVS 4c * 18
153 Bow-shaped Slab
-
HVS 5a * 24
154 West Buttress Eliminate E3 5c *** 106
155 White Slab E2 5c *** 435
156 Sheaf Direct
-
E3 5c 4
157 The Arrow
-
E3 5b 1
158 Bow Right-hand
-
E3 5c * 9
159 Great Slab
-
VS 4c *** 349
160 Great Slab VS 4c *** 17
161 Great - Bow Combination HVS 5a *** 449
162 Quiver E5 6a *  
163 Moss Groove
-
HVS 4c 5
164 Central Rib
-
VS 4c 4
165 Syth
-
E2 5c 2
166 Going Straight
-
E2 5c *  
167 Western Terrace
-
II 11
168 Hidden Treasure
-
E4 5c ** 1
169 Mynedd E3 5b  
170 Lampard's Entry
-
E2 5b 1
171 Spartacus E2 5b  
172 Slanting Slab
-
E4 6a * 31
173 Gael E2 5b  
174 Fibrin E2 5b  
175 Bloodlust E2 5b  
176 Thrombin
-
E3 5b 1
177 Red Slab
-
VII *** 1
178 Bloody Slab E3 5b ** 60
179 Grovel
-
E2 5c 1
180 Syncope
-
E5 6a 1
181 Haemaglobin
-
E3 5c * 3
182 Diwedd Groove E2 5c 1
183 The Leastest
-
E1 5a 3
184 The West Buttress Girdle
-
HVS 5a * 2
185 The New Girdle E3 5c  
186 Giant's Trod
-
D 1
187 West End Icefall IV **  
  The Steep Band
189 Metamorphosis
-
VS 4c  
190 Beano
-
E4 6a 2
191 The Steep Band
-
HVS 5a * 2
192 Apollo
-
E4 5c  
193 Head for Heights
-
E5 6b ** 1
194 A Fistful of Pockets
-
E3 5c *  
195 Clog Dancing
-
E2 5c *  
  The Far West Buttress
197 The Far Out West Shuffle
-
VS 5b  
198 Farfallino
-
E2 5b ** 1
199 Slanting Chimney VS 4c *  
200 Slanting Groove
-
E1 5b *  
201 Wapentake
-
VS 4b  
202 Primitive Route
-
VD ** 38
203 Slab Climb Left-hand
-
S * 7
204 Slab Climb Right-hand HS 4b ** 106
205 Deep Chimney
-
VD ** 2
206 The Riddler
-
E5 6b **  
207 Sea of Cloud
-
VS 4c 3
208 Road of Ghosts
-
VS 4c  
209 Sun Dance
-
VS 4b  
210 Trick of the Light
-
E4 5c *  
211 White Rose Garland HS  
212 Seated Start E5 6b,6a  
213 The Ice-fall III 4,3 * 6
214 Tormented Ejaculation E8 7a  

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