Climbs 214
Rocktype Rhyolite
Altitude 707m a.s.l
Faces N

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A summer evening beneath Cloggy © Nicholas Livesey

Crag features

Called "the best crag in the world" by Leo Houlding, Clogwyn Du'r Arddu (Cloggy) deserves a special place in the history of Welsh climbing. It has all-time classics in just about every grade, and is home to famed routes such as Indian Face and Master's Wall. Very long (up to 300m+), mostly serious, routes in an alpine setting. Some loose rock - an integral part in the Cloggy climbing experience.

Approach notes

Drive to Llanberis and go up the narrow road opposite the Royal Victoria Hotel. Park somewhere here - parking is no longer available at Hafodty Newidd as the farmer padlocks the gates. (Thanks for info, Bob Wightman.) You can drive past the Youth Hostel (turn up past the Spar shop) and park in small laybys after the tarmac. Don't block access. A path leads from this track, Bwlch Maesgwm, across the valley to just before Hafodty Newidd.

From Haftoy Newydd walk up the railway and the track until well past Half Way House, and where the track steepens, keep right along the miner's track which leads to the old copper mines, and continues as a small path contouring the cliff. Halfway House is now open for refreshments - though sadly not home-made lemonade, rather a strong trade in ice cream and Slush Puppies.

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Guidebooks

North Wales Climbs

North Wales Climbs covers the best climbing from the whole of this huge and varied area. The book is modelled on the very popular West Country Climbs which set a new standard for selected climb guidebooks back in 2010. It contains all the routes from the 2010 publication North Wales Classics and many more routes and areas, with expanded descriptions and much bigger photo-topos. The book covers all the major mountain crags from Llanberis Pass, to Cloggy; and from Ogwen to the Carneddau. It also includes the Llanberis Slate quarries, Tremadog, the Moelwyns, the Gwynant Valley, Mid-Wales, Gogarth and the North Coast Limestone.
More info

North Wales Classics

A significant addition to the Rockfax stable; North Wales Classics is a pocket-sized guide packs in hundreds of superb routes throughout the mountains of Snowdonia. From Tremadog to Tryfan, and everywhere in between, the book covers mid-grade routes on the best crags and features top-notch photo-topos and inspirational action shots taking you where you want to go.
More info
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  The Far Far East Buttress
2 Boomerang Gully
-
II 2
3 Boomerang Gully Direct
-
IV *  
4 Boomerang Left-hand
-
E2 5b * 1
5 Boomerang
-
E1 5b * 2
6 Soledad Brother
-
E1 5b  
7 Little Eastern
-
VS 4c  
8 Bywynog Chimney
-
E1 5b 2
9 Brwynog Chimney
-
V * 1
10 The Arete Start
-
IV  
11 The Key
-
E3 5c 1
12 Sinistra
-
E3 5b  
13 Woubits Left-hand
-
E3 6a * 5
14 Archaeopteryx
-
E5 6b *  
15 Woubits
-
E2 5b ** 30
16 Hazy Days
-
E4 6a ** 3
17 The Mostest
-
E2 5c ** 37
18 Luaka
-
E4 6a *  
19 Naddyn Ddu
-
E2 5c  
20 The Far East Girdle
-
E3 5c  
21 The Sceptre
-
E1 5c * 3
22 The Orb
-
VS 4c * 1
23 The Bauble
-
VS 4c  
24 Slurp
-
HVS 5a *  
25 The Republican
-
HVS 5a  
26 Silver Machine
-
VIII **  
27 Rumpelstiltskin
-
E2 5c  
28 Mostest Direct Start
-
E3 5c  
29 Mostest Direct Start
-
VI  
30 Chicane
-
E2 5b  
31 Stomach Traverse E2 5a  
32 Jublilee Climb
-
S *  
33 Jubilee Climb
-
V *** 8
34 Route 68
-
HVS 4c  
35 Land of Hope and Glory
-
E2 5c *  
36 Gormod E2 5b * 1
37 Human Touch
-
E4 6a * 1
38 Little Krapper
-
E3 5c * 8
39 Feeding Shmae
-
E4 6a ** 4
40 Camus
-
S 1
41 Camus
-
V * 2
42 East Gully
-
VD * 5
43 East Gully
-
IV ** 1
44 The Cwm Face E7 6c *** 4
  The Pinnacle
46 Beanland's
-
HVS 5a  
47 East Gully Wall
-
E1 5c 7
48 Death and The Maiden
-
E3 5c * 1
49 Shrike E2 5c *** 266
50 The Rumour
-
E2 5b 1
51 East Gully Groove
-
HVS 5b 22
52 The Axe E4 6a *** 144
53 Moonlight Shadow
-
E4 6a  
54 The Croak
-
E1 5b  
55 Easy Rider
-
HVS 5a * 4
56 Gargoyle HVS 5a 6
57 Aries
-
HVS 4c * 9
58 Margins of the Mind
-
E7 6c *** 1
59 It Will Be Alright on the Night
-
E7 6b ** 3
60 Psycho KIller
-
E6 6b ** 1
61 Octo E1 5b ** 99
62 The Hand Traverse E2 5c ** 67
63 Authentic Desire E7 6b ** 9
64 Shaft of a Dead Man
-
E7 6b *** 1
65 Fecundity Ridge
-
E7 6b **  
66 Desperate Straights
-
E4 6a  
67 Pinnacle Arete E2 5b ** 106
68 Taurus
-
E4 5c 5
69 Spillikin
-
E1 5b * 10
70 Vanishing Giraffes
-
E4 5c  
71 Guinevere
-
E2 5b 2
72 Pinnacle Flake
-
E2 5b * 26
73 The Spire
-
E3 5b 4
74 The Spire Direct
-
E4 5c ** 3
Climb name Grade
75 Virgo
-
E4 6a  
76 Direct Finish to the East Buttress
-
HS 4b ** 16
77 The Pinnacle Girdle
-
E3 5c *** 5
78 Jenga (an alternative finish to Pinnacle Arete) E2 5a 1
  The East Buttress
80 Sunset Crack VS 5a * 50
81 Llithrig E1 5c *** 284
82 Serth E2 5c ** 47
83 Serth Direct E3 6a ** 5
84 The Leech
-
E4 5c ** 9
85 Opening Bid
-
E5 6b * 2
86 Pistolero E5 6b *** 5
87 Capricorn
-
E2 5c ** 23
88 Pigott's Climb HVS 5a ** 122
89 Wall Variations
-
E2 5b 1
90 Trapeze
-
E5 6a * 3
91 The Sweeper
-
E2 5c * 11
92 Chimney Route
-
VS 4c * 30
93 Diglyph HVS 5b * 37
94 Daurigol E3 6a ** 60
95 Dinas in the Oven E7 6b **  
96 Cathedral Graffiti
-
E7 6b *  
97 Great Wall E4 6a *** 337
98 Face Mecca
-
E9 6c ***  
99 Womb Bits E5 6b *** 39
100 A Midsummer Night's Dream E6 6a *** 38
101 West Indian Face
-
E8 6b * 1
102 Spreadeagle
-
E4 5c * 3
103 Indian Face E9 6c *** 8
104 Master's Wall
-
E7 6b *  
105 The Rite of Spring E7 6b ***  
106 The Arete Finish
-
E4 5c * 9
107 The Banyan Tree
-
E6 6b *  
108 Blancmange Sandwich
-
E4 6a * 2
109 Custard Pie E6 6b ***  
110 Jelly Roll E2 5b *** 157
111 Greek Fire E6 6b **  
112 November E3 5c *** 119
113 Vember E1 5b *** 244
114 Island E7 6b **  
115 Medi
-
E5 6a 4
116 New Balls Please E7 6b ***  
117 Curving Crack VS 4c ** 241
118 Curving Arete
-
E4 5c * 16
119 Dignitas E8 6b ** 1
120 The Troach E2 5b *** 265
121 Purr-Spire Direct
-
E6 6b *** 3
122 The Purr-Spire
-
E5 6a ** 4
123 Pedestal Crack HVS 5a ** 152
124 The Organ Flagellator
-
E4 5c * 1
125 Scorpio E2 5b ** 88
126 Silhouette E2 5c *** 174
127 The Corner HVS 5b *** 199
128 Bold Man, Big Willie
-
E4 6a *  
129 The Shadow
-
E3 5c * 12
130 Mordor
-
E4 6a ** 36
131 Terrace Crack
-
VS 4c 13
132 The East Buttress Girdle
-
HVS 5a 3
133 Rupert Road
-
E6 6b *  
134 Eastern Terrace
-
M ** 69
135 Eastern Terrace
-
I/II ** 12
136 Eastern Terrace w/ Direct Start
-
IV ** 1
  Middle Rock
138 Moonshine HVS 5a  
139 Birthday Crack
-
HVS 5a * 6
140 Bridge Groove
-
E1 5a 1
141 Arete Alternative
-
E1 5b  
  The West Buttress
143 Prominus
-
E1 5a  
144 Adam's Rib
-
VS 4b 1
145 East Wall Climb
-
VD 1
146 Illegal Eagle
-
E3 5b  
147 Flintstone Wall
-
E1 5a  
148 Left Edge E1 5a * 35
Climb name Grade
149 The Boulder E1 5a *** 99
150 Gemini
-
E4 5c ** 5
151 The Boldest E4 5c *** 102
152 The Direct Finish (The Boldest) E3 5c ** 11
153 The Boulderer
-
E5 5c * 2
154 The Black Cleft E2 5c ** 11
155 The Black Cleft VII *** 11
156 Longland's Climb VS 4c ** 288
157 Sheaf VS 4c ** 106
158 Gecko Groove
-
E3 5b 13
159 Narrow Slab
-
HVS 4c * 23
160 Bow-shaped Slab
-
HVS 5a * 30
161 West Buttress Eliminate E3 5c *** 121
162 White Slab E2 5c *** 409
163 Sheaf Direct
-
E3 5c 4
164 The Arrow
-
E3 5b 1
165 Bow Right-hand
-
E3 5c * 11
166 Great Slab VS 4c *** 251
167 Great Slab
-
VI ** 14
168 Great - Bow Combination HVS 5a *** 424
169 Quiver E5 6a *  
170 Moss Groove
-
HVS 4c 6
171 Central Rib
-
VS 4c 4
172 Syth
-
E2 5c 2
173 Going Straight
-
E2 5c *  
174 Western Terrace
-
II 14
175 Hidden Treasure
-
E4 5c ** 1
176 Mynedd E3 5b  
177 Lampard's Entry
-
E2 5b 1
178 Spartacus E2 5b  
179 Slanting Slab
-
E4 6a * 33
180 Gael E2 5b  
181 Fibrin E2 5b  
182 Bloodlust E2 5b  
183 Thrombin
-
E3 5b 1
184 Red Slab
-
VII *** 1
185 Bloody Slab E3 5b ** 43
186 Grovel
-
E2 5c 1
187 Syncope
-
E5 6a 1
188 Haemaglobin
-
E3 5c * 8
189 Diwedd Groove E2 5c 1
190 The Leastest
-
E1 5a 3
191 The West Buttress Girdle
-
HVS 5a * 2
192 The New Girdle E3 5c  
193 Giant's Trod
-
D 1
194 West End Icefall IV **  
  The Steep Band
196 Metamorphosis
-
VS 4c  
197 Beano
-
E4 6a 2
198 The Steep Band
-
HVS 5a * 4
199 Apollo
-
E4 5c 1
200 Head for Heights
-
E5 6b ** 1
201 A Fistful of Pockets
-
E3 5c *  
202 Clog Dancing
-
E2 5c *  
  The Far West Buttress
204 The Far Out West Shuffle
-
VS 5b  
205 Farfallino
-
E2 5b ** 2
206 Slanting Chimney VS 4c * 1
207 Slanting Groove
-
E1 5b * 1
208 Wapentake
-
VS 4b  
209 Primitive Route
-
VD ** 44
210 Slab Climb Left-hand
-
S * 7
211 Slab Climb Right-hand HS 4b ** 136
212 Deep Chimney
-
VD ** 2
213 The Riddler
-
E5 6b **  
214 Sea of Cloud
-
VS 4c 3
215 Road of Ghosts
-
VS 4c  
216 Sun Dance
-
VS 4b  
217 Trick of the Light
-
E4 5c *  
218 White Rose Garland HS  
219 Seated Start E5 6b,6a  
220 The Ice-fall III 4,3 * 6
221 Tormented Ejaculation E8 7a  

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