Climbs 108
Rocktype Grit (quarried)
Altitude 50m a.s.l
Faces W

Mad monk © chris horrocks

Crag features

Mostly good quality quarried gritstone. Can be sandy in places. Some fantastic routes equal to peak classics. Mohammed the Mad.... is unmissable at VS 4c as is Splash Arete at VDiff. Flick of the Wrist and End of Time are superb and tricky E2s. Generally the routes have a bold feel to them; protection can be sparse and the fixed gear is often poor. The quarry does not deserve the poor reputation it seems to have despite the steady influx of summer visitors. There is also some very good but limited bouldering.

Bouldering topo available here: http://www.vimeo.com/groups/UKBouldering/files

Approach notes

No problems. Owned by Council which is happy to let climbers in.

Beware of Dog Muck near belay stakes.


Watch for local kids chucking stones from the tops.

Guidebooks

Western Grit

The 2009 edition of the award-winning guidebook to Staffordshire, Kinder, Bleaklow, Chew, Lancashire and Cheshire areas covered with photo-topos and descriptions.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Lancashire Rock (2016)
Lancashire Bouldering (2014)
Lancashire Rock (1999)

Out of print:
Hi all, I was climbing at Denham quarry on Tuesday and accidently left a ball-nut slider and a couple of wild country classic nuts at the base of Mohammed the Mad Monk. Although it might not seem like a big loss, being a student it would be great if somebody had pick them up and could get in touch. I am local to the Preston area and climb in the quarries regularly so could offer a belay as a reward!! Cheers
Jay Hartford - 02/Jun/16
Did a new route here yesterday: The route starts the same as Mad Karoo and Time until it gains the ledge at 3 meters. Then goes direct up the main wall 1 meter left of Time, climbing on thin crimps until it reaches the break (protection) and then continues direct to the finish of Mad Karoo. I have named the route ‘Bout Time and graded it at E3 5c. I lead the route yesterday (19/06/11) with Adrian Wright. We are both members of the LC&CC. Simon Holden
Simon Holden (LCandCC) - 20/Jun/11
My local crag and one of my favourite in lancashire, the climbs round the pool area are the best although bold. Dries quickly (the area's you want dry) in about an hour with sun, perfect for an evenings climbing! Only a small detour from the M6 so if your heading south a perfect place for a quick climb. Must do routes are Mohammed, Splash Arete, Concave Wall, Time, End of Time, Flick of the Wrist, Main Break and Step in the Clouds.
joe.91 - 14/Nov/10
Was here April 2008 on a cold Thurs night, the Council have done a clean up and overall it's lloking ok here
PDL - 20/May/08
when we were there recently (april 2007) on a lovely sunny day we had to contend with a guy with a petrol powered remote controlled car, a young lad skidding about on a scrambler and worst of all a group of kids pouring a container of oil down one climb, leaving an oil slick all the way down the rock and into the pool which was still visible a couple of weeks later. i still think its a great little quarry with a good variation of climbs but is in danger of being ruined by the saturday night cider crew and those who like to make as much noise as possible for recreation.
gjh1978 - 27/Apr/07
Mind the dog poo, but yea potentially as good as Parbold, take from that what you will, Splash Arete is a nice climb and the concave wall is ok once you have done it, think its a place where you have to form your own opinion of. Some nice climbing but only for on the way to wiltons or anglezarke
Jimbo MSider - 08/Nov/06
Mohammed the Mad Monk of the Moorside and Splash Arrete are really good climbs for those who are just getting into there outdoor climbing.
Chris Rhodes - 17/Aug/05
Don\'t leave without climbing Mohammed (VS 4c), a classic route which is never too hard and has plenty of protection available.
Matthew Rushton - 14/Apr/02
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Pool Area
2 Ashimoto
-
D 13
3 Waldo
-
HS 4b 8
4 Short circuit
-
E1 5c * 1
5 One Man from Cairo
-
HVS 5b * 4
6 Gnomely
-
HVS 5a 5
7 Narrow Slab
-
D 18
8 Splash Arete VD ** 218
9 Last Day but One E3 5c * 4
10 Splashback E8 6b **  
11 Wet
-
VD 23
12 Damp
-
VS 4c 14
13 Acapulco
-
E2 5b 4
14 Dry
-
E1 5b, 4b * 3
15 Flick of the Wrist E2 6a ** 31
16 That's All it Takes E4 6b * 6
17 End of Time E2 5b ** 74
18 Time E1 5a ** 182
19 Mad Karoo HVS 5a * 140
20 'Bout Time E3 5c 4
21 Complete Streaker VS 4c *** 105
22 Concave Wall S 4a * 534
23 Bevel
-
VD 36
24 Vague Groove V1 5c 12
25 Crackpot V4 6b * 4
26 monk puzzle
-
HVS 5c, 4c 13
27 Pickpocket V1 5c 10
28 Pickpocket Direct V2 6a 11
29 Snatch f8A **  
30 Brittle Nerve
-
E3 6a  
31 Private Palpate
-
E4 6b 1
32 Timepiece HVS 5a * 25
33 Wall V2 5c 10
34 Mohammed the Morbid Mogul S 4a 166
35 Going For the One E2 5b 26
36 They Don't Sell Bolts at Glacier Sports E5 6b ** 3
37 Mohammed the Mad Monk of Moorside Home for Mental Misfits VS 4c *** 753
38 The Denham Traverse f7A+ *** 6
39 Mohammed Arete E1 5a * 57
40 Mohammed the Medieval Melancholic VS 4c * 284
41 Mick the Quilt
-
E4 6a  
42 Green Finger Crack
-
VS 4b 9
43 Cyclops
-
VS 5b 15
  Right Intermediate Area
45 Eric's Arete
-
E1 5b 1
46 Den Diedre
-
VD 7
47 Tower View
-
VD * 14
48 Tower Ridge
-
VD 6
49 Tower Groove
-
D 15
50 Tower Power S 6
51 Sea Of Slime VS 4b 3
52 Ledgeway
-
M 29
53 The Clangers
-
HS 4b 19
54 Notions Of Disposibility
-
E1 5c 1
55 Albert's Arete
-
D 12
56 Nuts
-
HS 4b 4
57 Pop
-
HVS 5a 5
58 Rivet
-
VS 4c 28
59 Fujari
-
E5 6c  
60 Janet
-
HVS 5a 1
61 Aviemore Arete S 20
62 Slabracadabra VS 5b 2
  Left Intermediate Area
64 Hough
-
VD 5
65 Curving Crack
-
D 10
66 Slanting Groove
-
D 15
67 Thin Finger Crack
-
VS 4c * 15
68 Groove And Wall
-
HS 4a 11
69 Low Rib
-
VD * 40
70 Finito
-
HVS 5a 1
  Far Intermediate Area
72 Abrasions and Lacerations
-
VS 5a 6
73 Sprain
-
VS 4c 5
74 Midget
-
VD 8
75 Nosey
-
VS 5b 5
76 The Ceaseless Tide
-
VS 5c * 5
77 Snap Derision f7B 6c ** 2
78 Fingerbore
-
VS 4c 6
  Central Buttress Area
80 The Edge
-
VD 88
81 Trigular
-
M 159
82 Extra
-
D 69
83 Intra
-
VD 104
84 Lintel
-
S 4a 73
85 Central Buttress
-
D 123
86 Central Buttress Direct VD * 180
87 Cuckoo's Nest HVS 5b * 11
88 The Layback
-
HVS 5a * 89
89 Dislocation
-
VD 33
90 Wings
-
E1 5c 1
91 Butterfly S 4a 17
92 Step in the Clouds
-
S 4b * 242
  Overhang Area
94 The Funny Farm
-
HS 4b * 113
95 There's A Ghost In My Acid House
-
E1 6a 2
96 Quasimodo steps into the Clouds E1 5b 2
97 Quasimodo
-
E1 5b 16
98 Super Indirectissima
-
A2 8
99 Screaming Meemies
-
E3 6a 4
100 Bullwoker/Toreador E3 6a ** 3
101 Eff Vee Tee
-
E4 6b  
102 Main Break HS 4a ** 185
103 Ganglion
-
VS 4a 8
104 Chronometer
-
HVS 5a 1
105 Crono-Logical
-
E2 5c 3
106 Jimmy Sideways
-
HVS 5a 1
107 Rockdancer
-
HVS 5a 1
108 Rocking Horse Droppings
-
S 4a 7
109 Little Monkey f6C 2
110 The arete f5+ 5
111 Easy Groove f3 7
112 Undercut Problem V8 * 1
113 Short Wall f5 3
114 Sandy Cave f5+ 3

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