Climbs 110
Rocktype Grit (quarried)
Altitude 50m a.s.l
Faces W

Mad monk © chris horrocks

Crag features

Mostly good quality quarried gritstone. Can be sandy in places. Some fantastic routes equal to peak classics. Mohammed the Mad.... is unmissable at VS 4c as is Splash Arete at VDiff. Flick of the Wrist and End of Time are superb and tricky E2s. Generally the routes have a bold feel to them; protection can be sparse and the fixed gear is often poor. The quarry does not deserve the poor reputation it seems to have despite the steady influx of summer visitors. There is also some very good but limited bouldering.

Bouldering topo available here: http://www.vimeo.com/groups/UKBouldering/files

Approach notes

No problems. Owned by Council which is happy to let climbers in.

Beware of Dog Muck near belay stakes.


Watch for local kids chucking stones from the tops.

Guidebooks

Western Grit

The 2009 edition of the award-winning guidebook to Staffordshire, Kinder, Bleaklow, Chew, Lancashire and Cheshire areas covered with photo-topos and descriptions.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Lancashire Rock (2016)
Lancashire Bouldering (2014)
Lancashire Rock (1999)

Out of print:
Hi all, I was climbing at Denham quarry on Tuesday and accidently left a ball-nut slider and a couple of wild country classic nuts at the base of Mohammed the Mad Monk. Although it might not seem like a big loss, being a student it would be great if somebody had pick them up and could get in touch. I am local to the Preston area and climb in the quarries regularly so could offer a belay as a reward!! Cheers
Jay Hartford - 02/Jun/16
Did a new route here yesterday: The route starts the same as Mad Karoo and Time until it gains the ledge at 3 meters. Then goes direct up the main wall 1 meter left of Time, climbing on thin crimps until it reaches the break (protection) and then continues direct to the finish of Mad Karoo. I have named the route ‘Bout Time and graded it at E3 5c. I lead the route yesterday (19/06/11) with Adrian Wright. We are both members of the LC&CC. Simon Holden
Simon Holden (LCandCC) - 20/Jun/11
My local crag and one of my favourite in lancashire, the climbs round the pool area are the best although bold. Dries quickly (the area's you want dry) in about an hour with sun, perfect for an evenings climbing! Only a small detour from the M6 so if your heading south a perfect place for a quick climb. Must do routes are Mohammed, Splash Arete, Concave Wall, Time, End of Time, Flick of the Wrist, Main Break and Step in the Clouds.
joe.91 - 14/Nov/10
Was here April 2008 on a cold Thurs night, the Council have done a clean up and overall it's lloking ok here
PDL - 20/May/08
when we were there recently (april 2007) on a lovely sunny day we had to contend with a guy with a petrol powered remote controlled car, a young lad skidding about on a scrambler and worst of all a group of kids pouring a container of oil down one climb, leaving an oil slick all the way down the rock and into the pool which was still visible a couple of weeks later. i still think its a great little quarry with a good variation of climbs but is in danger of being ruined by the saturday night cider crew and those who like to make as much noise as possible for recreation.
gjh1978 - 27/Apr/07
Mind the dog poo, but yea potentially as good as Parbold, take from that what you will, Splash Arete is a nice climb and the concave wall is ok once you have done it, think its a place where you have to form your own opinion of. Some nice climbing but only for on the way to wiltons or anglezarke
Jimbo MSider - 08/Nov/06
Mohammed the Mad Monk of the Moorside and Splash Arrete are really good climbs for those who are just getting into there outdoor climbing.
Chris Rhodes - 17/Aug/05
Don\'t leave without climbing Mohammed (VS 4c), a classic route which is never too hard and has plenty of protection available.
Matthew Rushton - 14/Apr/02
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Pool Area
2 Ashimoto
-
D 13
3 Waldo
-
HS 4b 8
4 Short circuit
-
E1 5c * 1
5 One Man from Cairo
-
HVS 5b * 4
6 Gnomely
-
HVS 5a 5
7 Narrow Slab
-
D 19
8 Splash Arete VD *** 222
9 Last Day but One E3 5c * 4
10 Flick Direct f6C *  
11 Splashback E8 6b **  
12 Wet
-
VD 24
13 Damp
-
VS 4c 14
14 Acapulco
-
E2 5b 4
15 Dry
-
E1 5b, 4b * 3
16 Flick of the Wrist E2 6a ** 32
17 That's All it Takes E4 6b * 6
18 End of Time E2 5b ** 78
19 Time E1 5b ** 184
20 Mad Karoo HVS 5a * 142
21 'Bout Time E3 5c 4
22 Complete Streaker VS 4c *** 108
23 Concave Wall S 4a * 542
24 Bevel
-
VD 36
25 Vague Groove f6A+ 13
26 Crackpot f6B+ * 4
27 monk puzzle
-
HVS 5c, 4c 13
28 Pickpocket f5+ 10
29 Pickpocket Direct f6A 11
30 Snatch f8A ***  
31 Brittle Nerve E3 6a  
32 Private Palpate
-
E4 6b 1
33 Timepiece E1 5a * 27
34 Wall f5+ 11
35 Mohammed the Morbid Mogul S 4a 169
36 Going For the One E2 5b * 26
37 They Don't Sell Bolts at Glacier Sports E5 6b ** 3
38 Mohammed the Mad Monk of Moorside Home for Mental Misfits VS 4c *** 768
39 The Denham Traverse f7C *** 8
40 Mohammed Arete E1 5b * 58
41 Mohammed the Medieval Melancholic VS 5a ** 290
42 Mick the Quilt
-
E4 6a  
43 Green Finger Crack
-
VS 4b 9
44 Cyclops
-
VS 5b 15
45 Crap Pot f7A+ *  
  Right Intermediate Area
47 Eric's Arete
-
E1 5b 1
48 Den Diedre
-
VD 7
49 Tower View
-
VD * 14
50 Tower Ridge
-
VD 6
51 Tower Groove
-
D 15
52 Tower Power S 6
53 Sea Of Slime VS 4b 3
54 Ledgeway
-
M 30
55 The Clangers
-
HS 4b 19
56 Notions Of Disposibility
-
E1 5c 1
57 Albert's Arete
-
D 12
58 Nuts
-
HS 4b 4
59 Pop
-
HVS 5a 5
60 Rivet
-
VS 4c 28
61 Fujari
-
E5 6c  
62 Janet
-
HVS 5a 1
63 Aviemore Arete S 20
64 Slabracadabra VS 5b 2
  Left Intermediate Area
66 Hough
-
VD 6
67 Curving Crack
-
D 11
68 Slanting Groove
-
D 17
69 Thin Finger Crack
-
VS 4c * 15
70 Groove And Wall
-
HS 4a 11
71 Low Rib
-
VD * 41
72 Finito
-
HVS 5a 1
  Far Intermediate Area
74 Abrasions and Lacerations
-
VS 5a 6
75 Sprain
-
VS 4c 5
76 Midget
-
VD 8
77 Nosey
-
VS 5b 5
78 The Ceaseless Tide
-
VS 5c * 5
79 Snap Derision f7B 6c ** 2
80 Fingerbore
-
VS 4c 6
  Central Buttress Area
82 The Edge VD 91
83 Trigular M * 165
84 Extra D 72
85 Intra VD 108
86 Lintel S 4a 76
87 Central Buttress D 126
88 Central Buttress Direct VD * 185
89 Cuckoo's Nest HVS 5b 12
90 The Layback VS 4c 92
91 Dislocation
-
VD 33
92 Wings
-
E1 5c 1
93 Butterfly S 4a 16
94 Step in the Clouds S 4b * 246
  Overhang Area
96 The Funny Farm HS 4b * 115
97 There's A Ghost In My Acid House
-
E1 6a 2
98 Quasimodo steps into the Clouds E1 5b 2
99 Quasimodo E1 5b 16
100 Super Indirectissima
-
A2 8
101 Screaming Meemies E3 6a * 4
102 Bullwoker/Toreador E4 6a ** 3
103 Eff Vee Tee
-
E4 6b  
104 Main Break HS 4a * 190
105 Ganglion
-
VS 4a 9
106 Chronometer
-
HVS 5a 1
107 Crono-Logical
-
E2 5c 3
108 Jimmy Sideways
-
HVS 5a 1
109 Rockdancer
-
HVS 5a 1
110 Rocking Horse Droppings
-
S 4a 7
111 Little Monkey f6B+ * 2
112 The arete f5+ 6
113 Easy Groove f3 9
114 Undercut Problem f7B * 1
115 Short Wall f5 4
116 Sandy Cave f5+ 4

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