Climbs 139
Rocktype Grit (quarried)
Altitude 125m a.s.l
Faces N

Think Millstone x 2, splitter cracks & an esoteric slant...... © Rich Kirby

Crag features

Hoghton Quarry is probably one of the best gritstone quarries in the north of England. It would certainly not look out of place next to Millstone Edge. However, in recent years, restricted access has meant that it is rather overgrown in places. That said, it is well worth a visit. Slabs, walls and roofs abound and there are still a couple of obvious aid routes knocking around, complete with ancient aid tat. The whole experience is wrapped up in a hidden venue which would probably be quite familiar to Robin Hood. Williness to clean a route and a keen sense of adventure are required by this crag, but those who persist will be totally rewarded.

Approach notes

Access is very restricted. Climbing is only available from the beginning of June until the end of July.

Monday - Thursday until 5pm.

Friday - Sunday until dusk.

Bird restrictions may apply so please check the BMC access database for up-to-date information.

Access is sensitive so please do not climb outside these times.

Access Advice

Following several years of negotiation with the landowner (the de Hoghton Estate), rock climbing is once again permitted at Hoghton Tower Quarry for BMC members. Please ensure you adhere to the following agreements or access could be lost:

  • The permitted climbing season runs from 1st June-31st August, Outside of these dates no access for climbing is allowed.
  • Peregrines often nest in the quarry and these permitted dates are likely to be further constrained by a climbing restriction whilst they are nesting - see the 'seasonal restrictions' section below for details.
  • Visiting times are limited, so please plan your climbing carefully: 0830-1730 Sunday to Tuesday and 0830-2100 Wednesday to Saturday.  
  • At the top of a route, descend to the left or right around the perimeter of the quarry - do not walk towards the Tower
  • No portable radios
  • Park considerately without causing any obstruction for local residents on Chapel Lane
  • Approach the quarry from the chapel, cross the railway bridge (towards Hoghton Tower) then go through the gate on the left immediately after the bridge. A muddy track then leads into the quarry. This avoids crossing the railway lines  

Remember that the continuation of climbing at Hoghton in future years depends upon our adherence to this agreement, so enjoy the fantastic climbing the crag has to offer and act responsibly.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

The restrictrion applies to the whole quarry and the progress of the birds will be monitored with restriction dates reviewed if the birds fledge early.

18/7/17 Mandarin cleaned and climbed today. In very good condition. Boedica cleaned and climbed too. Still wet in bottom 3rd and needs some traffic but all vegetation taken out. Get to it!
biscuit - 18/Jul/17
Went today. First time at hoghton, it is amazing! Def worth a visit!
D.botts87 - 10/Jun/13
We couldn't find a sensible walk-off so we abseiled which seems a sensible option. We had exactly the opposite experience to that of "r fizzle". The whole place was cleaner than expected and can only improve with a little traffic during the brief access windows.
chrishedgehog - 30/Jul/12
Very dirty and green. I don't think many people have visited this summer. Mandarin looks to be the cleanest route but was still extremely sandy and crumbly and covered in bird poo.
Rachel Slater - 26/Jul/12
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Lamentably Gentlemanly
-
E5 6b **  
2 Getting Rid of the Albatross
-
E6 6c ***  
3 The Wasp
-
HVS 5a ** 19
4 The Sting
-
HVS 5a 4
5 Goulash
-
E1 5b  
6 All Roads Lead to Rome
-
E5 6b *** 1
7 Boadicea
-
E2 5c *** 26
8 For God's Sake Burn it Down!
-
E4 6b *  
9 Every Face Tells a Story
-
HVS 5b ** 2
10 Thespis
-
HVS 4c, 4c * 6
11 Burning the Phoenix
-
E4 5b, 6a **  
12 Lady
-
HVS 4c, 5a * 2
13 Route One
-
VS 4b, 4c ** 17
14 Golden Delicious
-
E3 5c, 5c ***  
15 Golden Delicious Variation Start
-
E3 6a ***  
16 The Knickertwister
-
E5 6a, 6b **  
17 The Knickertwister Direct Start
-
E5 5c, 6b **  
18 On the Brink
-
E5 6a, 6b **  
19 Blind Eye
-
E5 6c *  
20 Let's Go Play
-
E5 6a *  
21 Ten Minute Traverse
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E3 5b, 5c ** 5
22 Mandarin
-
E2 5b,5b *** 87
23 Patella E2 5b  
24 Twin Spikes
-
VD 7
25 Groove and Ledge
-
S 4a 10
26 Blunt Arete
-
E1 5b 3
27 Slanting Crack
-
E1 5b * 4
28 Partnership
-
VS 4c 2
29 Main Overhang
-
A1 3
30 Cave Route
-
HS 4b, 4a ** 25
31 Rhododendron Buttress
-
E2 5c *** 39
32 Finger Traverse
-
VS 5b * 9
33 Pandora's Box
-
E1 6a 2
34 Bowker's Crack
-
VS 4c * 8
35 Speech Impediment
-
E2 6b 3
36 Cyclops
-
VS 4c 1
37 Wobbling Groove
-
HVS 5b 1
38 Easy Route
-
D 8
39 Easier Route
-
D 3
40 Overhanging Cack
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HVS 5b, 5a * 2
41 The Black Tripe Trip
-
E4 6b,6a 1
42 Drupe E1 5c 4
43 The Motorway
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M 2
44 Lookout Ridge
-
D 2
45 Ouzo
-
D 2
46 Strega
-
VD 2
47 Advocaat
-
S 4a 3
48 Kummel
-
S 4a 4
49 Tia Maria
-
VS 4c 9
50 Goldwasser
-
VS 4b * 15

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