Climbs 48
Rocktype Volcanic tuff
Altitude 2351m a.s.l
Faces W

Midway on Cupcake, Bear Crag, California. © jon

Crag features

This is a great crag which combines the style of climbing found at Owens River Gorge with the more column based climbing at, say, Frenchman's Coulée. Don't be put off by the left hand end of the crag (the first bit you get to), the crag just gets better and better - and bigger - the further you go. A 60m rope will probably do you, but a 70m removes any doubt... Take about 15 quickdraws - a quick look at the guide will tell you the maximum is 13, but it's nice to have a few extra to extend some on the longer pitches. Although the guide book says somewhere that the grades are similar to Owens, I found them to be about a letter grade harder.

The absence of stars on routes doesn't imply lack of quality, it simply means I haven't climbed them. Star ratings from 1 - 5 are in the guide.

Approach notes

From Mammoth, go over Minaret Summit to Reds Meadows. This requires an early start to beat the shuttle bus service in the summer - cars are banned after 7:00am or take the bus. After about mid September this no longer applies. From the parking follow the guidebook description. NOTE: The area was subject to a fire in the early 90s and there are still many burnt and rotting trees standing. These fall in windy weather and apart from being dangerous, change the footpath. At the time of writing (Oct 09), the small path joining the footpath to the stock trail starts 50m past the large boulder and not just left of it. After Boundary Creek the Crag Trail branches off left 100m after the creek and not 30 feet. This may well change this winter...

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  HIBERNATION CAVES
2 Arete Already 5.10c *  
3 Exappeal 5.10b  
4 Little Walt
-
5.11a  
  FIRE WALL
6 White Lightning
-
5.12a  
7 White African
-
5.11c  
8 Project 1
-
Project  
9 Smoked Cake
-
5.11a  
10 Serpico
-
5.12a 1
11 Texas Chainsaw Massacre
-
5.12b  
  THE TOMBSTONE
13 Dilate
-
5.11d  
14 Regurgitator 5.11b ** 1
15 Stairway to Heaven 5.10a *  
16 Perpetrator
-
5.12c  
17 Reanimator
-
5.11d 1
18 Sidearm
-
5.11d  
19 Tombstone - open project
-
Project  
20 To the Grave
-
5.12d  
21 Brain Dead
-
5.13b  
22 Tales from the Crypt
-
5.12c  
  UNENCHANTED FOREST
24 Project 2
-
5.1  
25 Barely Canadian 5.11c *  
26 Penetrator
-
5.12b  
27 Idiot Savant
-
5.12c  
  HUBER WALL
29 I Fly
-
5.13c  
30 Tension Tamer
-
5.13a  
31 Grain Tamer
-
5.12c  
32 Project 3
-
Project  
33 Project 4
-
Project  
  TEFLON WALL
35 Cone of Silence
-
5.12a  
36 Cable Guy 5.11d ***  
37 Cupcake 5.11c **  
38 Garden Route 5.11c ***  
39 Right Again 5.10d ***  
40 Hamster Style 5.11b ***  
41 Variation 5.11b **  
  THE COLUMNS
43 Mercy Buckets 5.12a **  
44 Flamed Thrower
-
5.12a  
45 Flying Circus
-
5.12c  
46 Chicks Dig It 5.11a ***  
47 Project 5
-
5.1  
48 Ashes to Ashes
-
5.11d  
49 Holy Smoke
-
5.11c  
50 Friendly Fire 5.11b ***  
51 Easy Rider
-
5.11c  
52 Stepping Stone
-
5.11d  
53 Project 6
-
Project  
  SOUTH BUTTRESS
55 Jagged Sky
-
5.12a  
56 Horizon X
-
5.11c  

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer jon