UKC

Climbs 100
Rocktype Limestone

Faces W

Me on San Antonio © mfisher

Crag features

Very pleasant situation - the routes are short (up to 6 metres) on superb rock (although it's fairly polished). A great place for a first climb and understandably popular with groups, although there is plenty of crag for everyone. The two main buttresses are 'South America' wall, with 3 fine VS 5as and 'Cyclops Wall'. There's a fingery 15 metre 6c/B9 eliminate traverse (marked by red dots) at the right hand end of the crag. Take a picnic! [Tom Briggs 6/02]

A great crag if you've got kids and non-climbers. It's not very high, and there are lots of lower grade climbs. The foot of the crag is in a valley, and the opposite side of the valley is basically a grassy bank, so it's sheltered.
karinbradbury - 31/May/09
Hidden gem, well worth a look.
steveri - 15/Jan/08
Excellent crag, on perfect rock, many short solos and slightly longer routes, and some bouldering.
Mike Binks - 03/Oct/05
really good crag to break your arm on!!!!!
tim edward - 04/Nov/03
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  South America Wall
2 Hanging Crack
-
D 257
3 Straight Crack
-
VD 353
4 Galapagos
-
D 311
5 West Coast
-
D * 484
6 Sendero Luminoso
-
HS 4b * 376
7 Argentina
-
VS 5a 103
8 Belize
-
VS 5a * 186
9 Sandinista
-
VS 5a * 136
10 American Dream V5 6b ** 20
11 San Miguel
-
VS 5a * 92
12 San Antonio
-
HVS 5a/b * 111
13 Pablo
-
S 275
14 Neruda VD 83
15 Crack Climb
-
VD 249
16 Mahout MS 51
17 Piranha * HVS 5c 1
  Cave Area
19 Top Notch D 55
20 Roof Window HS 4b * 36
21 Huttons 'Forgotten' Roof HVS 5b 5
22 Wrinkled Slab
-
VD * 230
23 The Flake
-
VD 193
24 Pot Belly
-
S 4b 155
25 The Barrier Roof
-
S 4a 171
26 Roof Route Left
-
VS 5a 73
27 Roof Route One
-
HVS 5b 54
28 Roof Route Two
-
VS 5a 34
29 Roof Route Three
-
E1 5c 56
30 Roof Route Four
-
VS 5a 75
31 Roof Traverse
-
V0+ 5b 18
32 Upper Traverse
-
V0+ 5b 16
33 Sinister Crack
-
VS 5a 90
34 Dexter Wall
-
HS 4c 98
35 Imitation Verdon M 42
  Sycamore Buttress
37 Sylvie
-
S 4b 138
Climb name Grade
38 Daphne
-
S 4a 143
39 Hebe
-
VD 130
40 Groove Line M 84
  Sunny Wall
42 Hedera Wall
-
D 114
43 Sunny Groove
-
D 120
44 T' Owd Man
-
VD * 146
45 T' Owd Trout
-
VD 123
  The Hollow
47 Hollow Slab
-
VD 63
48 Hollow Route
-
VD 62
49 Holloween
-
VD 64
50 The Crooked Man
-
S 4a * 101
  Ash Tree Wall
52 Ash Tree Slab
-
VD 96
53 The Chopping Block
-
VD 84
54 Cracked Groove
-
VD 106
55 Speedy Recovery
-
S 4a 120
56 The Ashes
-
D 96
57 Ash Gully
-
M 120
  Ronson Kirkby Area
59 Left Wall
-
VD 203
60 The Rib
-
HS 4b * 245
61 Wings
-
VD * 468
62 Pegasus
-
VS 5a * 359
63 Winged Traverse
-
VS 5a 92
64 Cyclops
-
HVS 6a ** 170
65 Medusa V1 5c * 18
66 medusa
-
VS 5a 25
67 Serpent
-
S 4a * 445
68 Ronson Kirkby
-
VD 344
69 Little Corner
-
VD 215
70 Concave Wall
-
VD 157
  Four Walls
72 First Wall Rib
-
VD * 186
73 Crackling
-
D 217
74 Smooth Rib
-
S 4a * 215
Climb name Grade
75 Second Wall
-
VD 178
76 Crazy Paving
-
D 188
77 Pedestal Crack
-
D 163
78 Third Wall Central
-
VD 162
79 Spike Route
-
HD 52
80 The Runnel
-
D * 186
81 Curving
-
HD ** 71
82 The Brown Streak * S 4a 2
83 Orange Crush * HS 4b * 1
84 Fourth Wall * none diff 1
  Ape Buttress
86 Primate
-
VS 5a * 106
87 Swamp Fever
-
HVS 5b 90
88 Malaria
-
HVS 5b 60
89 The Lemur's Tail
-
HS 4c * 122
90 Gibbon Take
-
V0 5a 55
91 No More Monkey Business
-
V0 5a 58
92 Chimp
-
HS 4c * 128
93 Gorilla Berengii
-
HS 4c * 221
94 Gorilla, Gorilla
-
VS 4c ** 237
95 Pithecanthropus Indirectus
-
VS 4c * 104
96 Pithecanthropus Erectus
-
HS 4b 119
  Nick's Traverse
98 Left Roof Crack (problem 2) V3 * 9
99 Nick's Traverse V7 4
100 The Cause V7 ** 16
101 Lay Back
-
VD 34
102 Raddled Slob
-
VS 5b 3
103 The Scoop f6B ** 22
104 Blastaway f7B+ ** 3
105 Dead Eyes f7A 8
106 Roof Crack f7A * 16
107 Frankie Knuckles V7 * 2
108 golden fleece
-
VS 5a 11
109 T'Owd Man
-
VD  
110 Sunny Wall * D 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Ollie Hensman-Crook