Climbs 102
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 89m a.s.l
Faces S
Kate - Killer Queen © datoon
**UPDATED 4 JUNE 25**
CLIMBING IS NOW OFFICIALLY OPEN
From the 4 Jun 2025 climbing restrictions have been lifted in Warton Main Quarry. Beware that due to extensive cotoneaster removal over winter, there could be loose rock on some routes. I will update on here as I get round to checking areas.
Restrictions were in place due to ravens and peregrines nesting, but the peregrines didn't fledge this year. It is an offence under the Wildlife and Countryside act 1981 to disturb nesting peregrines. Police have been alerted to recent breaches and the peregrines are closely monitored.
For the avoidance of any doubt the restrictions are also lifted for all routes on the Terrace.
A intimidating crag with great potential and variety. Trad lines are best climbed by those with grades in hand, and not to push your grade. Even after cleaning/clearing work, loose rock should still be expected and protection treated with care.
Terrace Wall, the bolted upper tier, is popular and provides some enjoyable climbing in the lower grades with excellent views out over Morecambe Bay.
Main Wall appears loose, however has some good rock and amazing lines. Cleaning work began in Jul 2022 after the bird ban was completed. Currently all routes on the Deceptive Bends slab are as cleared as they can be.
Despite appearance, the far right of the Quarry is very loose and should only be climbed with extreme caution, some recently added bolted lines have yet to be checked, but have seen ascents.
Please provide any detail about loose rock & dodgy in-situ gear in your notes on here and we'll try and make an effort to check it out. Try and avoid unhelpful comments like 'needs a clean' as that is generally something that can be done yourself to benefit others.
1 minute walk in from the carpark inside the Quarry to the main wall.
10 minutes to the Upper Tier
Check BMC RAD for accurate information and DO NOT CLIMB DURING THE BAN.
The site is part of a Local Nature Reserve and the quarry floor below Main Wall provides an important orchid habitat - please avoid this area from April-June inclusive.
There is a bolting agreement for some agreed routes from Modern Wall rightwards, any future bolting development needs to be discussed with the local BMC access rep and potentially the landowner before any work.
The roof of the cave above Gouffle Connection is thought to be unstable, no monitoring is taking place.
Ravens and Peregrines have historically nested in the quarry - expect climbing restriction in nesting season (Spring). The quarry is monitored by 'Peregrine Watch' and the local access team has a good relationship with stakeholders - restrictions are generally lifted as soon as possible and signs posted on site.
No peregrines have nested in 2025 and Raven chicks have now fledged. Climbing restrictions have therefore been lifted.
Please be aware that none of the routes have been inspected/climbed since January 2025 when cotoneaster removal from the quarry face took place. As a consequence of the works there are areas of loose rock and a block containing a bolt (Rock Folly) fell off. Routes mainly affected are Rock Folly and Black Streak but other routes may have changed or have loose rock. Significant areas of loose rock were also noted by the contractor at the top of the crag. Caution should be excercised.
Lancashire County Council do not monitor any of the routes and climbers climb at their own risk.
Dates: 14 February to 4 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
During the nesting season each year, climbing in Warton Main is restricted for the whole quarry including the Terrace, to prevent disturbance of peregrines and other birds. Thank you for following the restrictions. The BMC has a good relationship with interested parties locally, birds are actively monitored and if fledging birds allow, the restrictions are lifted early.
The newly bolted routes to the right hand side of the quarry are both properly good on mostly sound rock. Get on them before they get polished! Somewhere in the region of 6a+ to 6b+. Props to whoever bolted them as they are really well done with excellent glue ins and lower off. Definitely better than the ones on terrace wall. MattRose22 - 03/Oct/22 |
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went to the upper tire today, routes are good fun and well bolted. Was better towards the right hand end, generally better rock. Star trek was good though. john lynch - 29/Dec/08 |
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