Climbs 89
Rocktype Limestone

Faces S

Kate - Killer Queen © datoon

Crag features

Recently bolted upper tier provides some enjoyable climbing.

The main quarry appears loose however has some good rock and lines.

Approach notes

1 minute walk in from the carpark inside the Quarry to the main wall.

10 minutes to the Upper Tier

Bird ban March - June.

Access Advice

The site is part of a Local Nature Reserve and the quarry floor below Main Wall provides an important orchid habitat - please avoid this area from April - June inclusive.

The agreed bolting programme on the Terrace Wall has been completed and the owners have requested no further bolting - please respect their wishes otherwise access could be threatened. 

NOTE: The roof of the cave left of Gouffle is thought to be unstable and is being monitored by Lancashire County Council. Please take care not to damage the rock or indicators which are measuring any movement. 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 18 February to 15 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

During the nesting season, climbing in Wharton Main is restricted across the whole quarry to prevent disturbance of nesting peregrines.

Went and had a look at this crag today, was a bit bizarre seeing 2 and 3 star routes totally filled with vegetation. Sort of wonder if these routes get many, if any, ascents? As brought up by others, rock also looks very dubious in certain spots
Alex Munnery - 17/Nov/13
went to the upper tire today, routes are good fun and well bolted. Was better towards the right hand end, generally better rock. Star trek was good though.
john lynch - 29/Dec/08
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Moon Ribber
-
VD 6
2 Moonshine
-
E2 5c  
3 Pipedream
-
HVS 5a 1
4 Paper Plane
-
E1 5a  
5 Papermoon
-
VS 4c * 1
6 Home James
-
VS 4b 1
7 Don't Spare the Horses
-
VS 4c 2
8 Raising the Blade
-
E3 5c  
9 Karlyn Returns
-
E4 6b 1
10 Come Here atherine
-
E1 6a  
11 The Gouffle Connection
-
VS 4b * 6
12 Vespers for the Dead
-
HVS 5a ** 8
13 Wart Berg
-
VS 4b, - 2
14 Dog Years
-
E2 5c *  
15 Mighty Fly
-
E5 6b **  
16 The Torture Garden
-
E6 6b **  
17 Oddballs
-
E4 5c  
18 Tight Sally
-
HVS 4a, 5a  
19 Slack Alice HVS 4c, 4b 2
20 Zero Tolerance 6a+ * 3
21 Rock Folly VS 4c 1
22 Killer Queen
-
E4 6a ** 4
23 Plastic Iceberg
-
E1 5b *** 24
24 Cosmic Debris
-
E1 5a5b5b 8
25 Saruman
-
E2 5b 1
26 The Real World
-
VS 4b 22
27 Deceptive Bends
-
E1 5b *** 30
28 The Third World
-
HVS 5a *** 53
29 Truly Scrumptious
-
E1 5a  
30 Dream World HVS 5a 1
31 Shake, Rattle and Roll E1 5b 1
32 Walking on Sunshine 5a * 13
33 Star Wars 5a 15
34 Sneck 5a * 8
35 Rubber Band S 4a 3
36 Melting Point 5a * 9
37 Bouquet of Barbed Wire S 4a * 1
38 Off the Sneck 4c 18
39 No Line 4c 12
40 Breakthrough 5c 14
41 Return of the Jedi
-
5a 17
42 Middle Way
-
5a 5
43 Red Bush
-
5a 4
44 Star Trek
-
5c ** 4
45 Black Streak VS 4c 1
46 Boiling Point 5b 2
47 Lost World 5c 3
48 Misplaced 5c 3
49 Ray of Hope 6a ** 1
50 Celestial Cyclone E3 5c *  

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