Climbs 123
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 141m a.s.l
Faces W

Warton Crag Upper © chris taylor

Crag features

Good short routes, and some superb bouldering in the V1 to V7 range with one hard (V11) traverse.

Approach notes

This crag is very hard to find the first (or even the second or third) time. It is best reached from the highest point on the Warton to Crag Foot road (GR SD487724). There is a five bar gate (memorial sign on wall adjacent) on the NE side of the road with a small parking spot about 80 metres NW. Follow the track through the gate till it peters out near two old baths. Ignore path continuing to a prominent gate in the same line. Instead, bear right towards a fence about 100m away. From the fence corner go left up a grassy sward to cross a stile through another barbed wire fence. The path leads quickly to a rocky outcrop (bit of wall visible on your right). Go right above the outcrop and contour for about 80m to find a small but well-worn path through dense scrub on your left. This path emerges soon on more open terrain. Bear left and head through some scruffy scrub to find the crag skulking in some trees.

Someone's been moving s%&t around at Warton, like they own the place. Please don't. I noticed someone has moved rocks around at Pinnacle Crag. Ok... So, now the path everyone uses is covered in big blocks, but no big deal - it was already uneven. However, up in the woods, there's a short crag with a couple of old bolts. Someone cut down a tree and used it and some earth to build themselves a flat landing. That tree was one of very few Lancaster Whitebeam left - a rare and endangered species of tree, that some oaf boulderer numpty, probably wearing a fluorescent beany, has made even rarer and more endangered through their ignorance. We don't care about you're "amazing send"; we do care about you f***ing the place up. So, if you can't do the route without destroying trees and plants and paths, don't f****ng climb the route! And, if you want to do some "crag maintenance", try talking to the ranger and the BMC first, rather than screwing around with no knowledge.
C Witter - 24/Jul/16
I've found the Aviary Walls, and the other small buttresses. From the Pinnacle, head downhill, into the woods, about a 2 or 3min walk. There are a few climbs that are good (e.g. Cutting Edge, VS) but, apart from the well-frequented Black Buttress, everything's a bit overgrown, especially at the top.
C Witter - 12/May/16
Did anyone find Aviary Wall? I missed it when I went for a half-hearted search. I went past plum buttress to the Pinnacle. Then I carried on, climbed over a barbed wire fence, went some way before ending up in a big grassy opening surrounded by briars, with a tiny (4ft) outcrop at the top. Any clues much appreciated!
C Witter - 22/Jul/15
does anyone know the climb between deadwood crack and lone tree gully. It is a really nice climb up the rib with good gear on small wires.
daviesxxx - 16/Jun/11
In between the dross there are some great lines worth seeking out on Plum Buttress. Good winters afternoon venue.
lozzer - 11/Dec/04
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Stile Buttress
2 Stile Corner M 6
3 Free Stile
-
HS 4b * 47
4 Jaywalk HVS 5a 3
5 Beacon Lighter
-
HVS 5a 24
6 Stile Ted Groove
-
VD 52
7 Simian
-
VD 57
8 Stile-ish Arete
-
S 4a 51
9 Which Way
-
VD 38
10 Ming
-
S 4a 52
11 Wedgewood
-
VD 33
12 Weather Wear f7A+ * 1
13 Blunt Arete f6B 1
  Mounting Buttress
15 Mounting Block
-
S 4a * 32
16 Supination
-
VS 4c 23
17 Fading Light
-
HVS 5b 7
18 Inspired
-
S 4b 34
  Parson's Buttress
20 Far Flung VD 2
21 The Verger
-
VD 15
22 The Parson's Nose
-
VD 33
23 Bish's Tipple
-
S 4a 37
24 Plum Pudding f6B *** 2
  Plum Buttress
26 The Vine Line
-
HS 5b 26
27 Evolution f6A+ 6
28 Masters at Work f6B 18
29 Master of Prow f6C+ ** 1
30 Adora Kiora f6A  
31 Dihedral
-
VS 5a 14
32 Dihedral SDS f6A+ 16
33 Dihedral Traverse f6B+ 1
34 Yosemite Rib
-
VS 5a 12
35 Yosemite Rib Direct Start E3 6c 2
36 Debaser f7A+ ** 22
37 Debaser LH f7B * 11
38 The Plumbline
-
E3 6a ** 11
39 The Plumbline (Start) f7A * 10
40 Plumbase f7B * 3
41 The Plumbline Traverse f7A * 18
42 Low Traverse f6C 6c * 2
43 The Big Plum
-
HVS 5c * 44
44 The Big Plum Peach Finish HVS 5a * 9
45 Sugarfix f6C+ 18
46 Sugarfix SDS f7C ** 12
47 Lip Traverse f7A+ 1
48 E-Fix f7C * 10
49 Poison f7C+ * 10
50 Ebenezer Goode f8A ** 7
51 Goode Poison f8A 5
52 Voodoo People f7A+ ** 12
53 Voodoo People SS f7B ** 19
54 The Voodoo Fix f7C 2
55 Voodoo Magic f7C * 2
56 Hoodoo People f6C ** 42
57 Sulu People f6C+ 1
58 Lone Tree Variation
-
S 4b * 77
59 Lone Tree Groove
-
S 4a * 155
60 Nullarbor VS 5a * 11
61 Nullarbor SS f6B 8
62 Plum Buttress Girdle
-
HVS 5a * 7
  Deadwood Area
64 Deadwood Crack
-
VS 5a 56
65 Flake and Wall
-
S 4a 157
66 Wart
-
VD 50
67 Thrutch
-
VD 80
68 The Super Mario Traverse S 4b 6
69 The Morning After
-
VS 4c 96
70 Fine White Line
-
VS 4c 45
71 Herbert's Horror
-
HS 4a 15
72 The Mushroom
-
D 69
73 Twinkle Ginger Beard V0 2
  Left Walls
75 The Gremp
-
S 4a 53
76 Skutch
-
VD 57
77 The Grump
-
S 4a 26
78 Dollard
-
D 27
79 Orbit
-
VS 4c 7
80 Triplanetary
-
HS 4b 17
  The Pinnacle
82 Xtravaganza
-
f4+ * 5
83 Stu's Traverse f6C 3
84 Weakling's Wall
-
HS 4b 7
85 Gear Freak
-
f6C ** 6
86 Totally Focussed f7A * 19
87 Totally Focussed SS f7A+ * 18
88 The Pocket Problem f5+ * 8
89 The Crank
-
E3 6b * 1
90 The Graunch
-
VS 4c * 33
91 The Octagon f6A+ 1
92 Muscles Crack
-
HS 4b 41
93 The Monkey's Paw
-
HVS 5b * 8
94 Beastmaster f6C ** 28
95 Bumble Bee
-
S 4a * 5
96 Salita Silvestre VD 1
  Aviary Walls
98 Scoop Surprise
-
VD 4
99 Head Whip
-
VD 6
100 Bird Watcher
-
VS 5a * 4
101 The Ribulator
-
HS 4c 4
102 Cutting Edge
-
VS 4c * 2
103 Antler Wall
-
VD 3
104 Sheilgh's Wall
-
S 4a 2
  Black Buttress
106 Black Russian
-
E2 6a * 4
107 Black Sheep
-
HVS 5b 6
108 Black Magic f6A+ ** 22
109 Black Jack
-
E2 5c 7
110 Black Jack SS f6C * 4
111 Black Light f7B ** 10
112 Black Light standing start f7A * 11
113 White Light / Black Light Variation f7A+ ** 2
114 Black Edge
-
HS 4b 4
115 Black Hole f6C+ 5
116 Labyrinth f6C * 1
117 Beneath the Labyrinth f7B+ * 1
  Isolated Wall
119 Quarantine
-
HVS 5a * 1
120 Seclusion
-
HVS 5a  
121 Hermitage
-
VD 1
  Matterhorn Wall
123 Hornli
-
VD 1
124 Carrel
-
VD 1
125 Whymper
-
VS 5a *  
126 The Bigger Plum f7B+ ** 1
127 Three Amigos VS 4c * 1
128 Re-Stile S 2
129 Bramble VD 4
130 Stylophone VS 4c 1
131 Ronson Lighter HVS 5a * 3
132 Fargo HS 4b 1
133 Simian Direct S 4a 4
134 Orbituary VD 1

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