Climbs 123
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 141m a.s.l
Faces W

Warton Crag Upper © chris taylor

Crag features

Good short routes, and some superb bouldering in the V1 to V7 range with one hard (V11) traverse.

Approach notes

This crag is very hard to find the first (or even the second or third) time. It is best reached from the highest point on the Warton to Crag Foot road (GR SD487724). There is a five bar gate (memorial sign on wall adjacent) on the NE side of the road with a small parking spot about 80 metres NW. Follow the track through the gate till it peters out near two old baths. Ignore path continuing to a prominent gate in the same line. Instead, bear right towards a fence about 100m away. From the fence corner go left up a grassy sward to cross a stile through another barbed wire fence. The path leads quickly to a rocky outcrop (bit of wall visible on your right). Go right above the outcrop and contour for about 80m to find a small but well-worn path through dense scrub on your left. This path emerges soon on more open terrain. Bear left and head through some scruffy scrub to find the crag skulking in some trees.

Someone's been moving s%&t around at Warton, like they own the place. Please don't. I noticed someone has moved rocks around at Pinnacle Crag. Ok... So, now the path everyone uses is covered in big blocks, but no big deal - it was already uneven. However, up in the woods, there's a short crag with a couple of old bolts. Someone cut down a tree and used it and some earth to build themselves a flat landing. That tree was one of very few Lancaster Whitebeam left - a rare and endangered species of tree, that some oaf boulderer numpty, probably wearing a fluorescent beany, has made even rarer and more endangered through their ignorance. We don't care about you're "amazing send"; we do care about you f***ing the place up. So, if you can't do the route without destroying trees and plants and paths, don't f****ng climb the route! And, if you want to do some "crag maintenance", try talking to the ranger and the BMC first, rather than screwing around with no knowledge.
C Witter - 24/Jul/16
I've found the Aviary Walls, and the other small buttresses. From the Pinnacle, head downhill, into the woods, about a 2 or 3min walk. There are a few climbs that are good (e.g. Cutting Edge, VS) but, apart from the well-frequented Black Buttress, everything's a bit overgrown, especially at the top.
C Witter - 12/May/16
Did anyone find Aviary Wall? I missed it when I went for a half-hearted search. I went past plum buttress to the Pinnacle. Then I carried on, climbed over a barbed wire fence, went some way before ending up in a big grassy opening surrounded by briars, with a tiny (4ft) outcrop at the top. Any clues much appreciated!
C Witter - 22/Jul/15
does anyone know the climb between deadwood crack and lone tree gully. It is a really nice climb up the rib with good gear on small wires.
daviesxxx - 16/Jun/11
In between the dross there are some great lines worth seeking out on Plum Buttress. Good winters afternoon venue.
lozzer - 11/Dec/04
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Stile Buttress 
2Stile CornerM 6
3Free Stile
HS 4b *46
4JaywalkHVS 5a 4
5Beacon Lighter
HVS 5a 25
6Stile Ted Groove
VD 52
VD 57
8Stile-ish Arete
S 4a 50
9Which Way
VD 36
S 4a 52
VD 32
12Weather Wearf7A+ *1
13Blunt Aretef6B 1
 Mounting Buttress 
15Mounting Block
S 4a *33
VS 4c 22
17Fading Light
HVS 5b 7
S 4b 34
 Parson's Buttress 
20Far FlungVD 2
21The Verger
VD 15
22The Parson's Nose
VD 33
23Bish's Tipple
S 4a 37
24Plum Puddingf6B ***2
 Plum Buttress 
26The Vine Line
HS 5b 25
27Evolutionf6A+ 6
28Masters at Workf6B 18
29Master of Prowf6C+ **1
30Adora Kioraf6A  
VS 5a 14
32Dihedral SDSf6A+ 16
33Dihedral Traversef6B+ 1
34Yosemite Rib
VS 5a 12
35Yosemite Rib Direct StartE3 6c 2
36Debaserf7A+ **22
37Debaser LHf7B *12
38The Plumbline
E3 6a **11
39The Plumbline (Start)f7A *10
40Plumbasef7B *3
41The Plumbline Traversef7A *17
42Low Traversef6C *2
43The Big Plum
HVS 5c *43
44The Big Plum Peach FinishHVS 5a *9
45Sugarfixf6C+ 18
46Sugarfix SDSf7C **14
47Lip Traversef7A+ 1
48E-Fixf7C *10
49Poisonf7C+ *10
50Ebenezer Goodef8A **7
51Goode Poisonf8A 6
52Voodoo Peoplef7A+ **12
53Voodoo People SSf7B **19
54The Voodoo Fixf7C 2
55Voodoo Magicf7C *2
56Hoodoo Peoplef6C **40
57Sulu Peoplef6C+ 1
58Lone Tree Variation
S 4b *76
59Lone Tree Groove
S 4a *151
60NullarborVS 5a *11
61Nullarbor SSf6B 8
62Plum Buttress Girdle
HVS 5a *7
 Deadwood Area 
64Deadwood Crack
VS 5a 54
65Flake and Wall
S 4a 155
VD 49
VD 77
68The Super Mario TraverseS 4b 6
69The Morning After
VS 4c 93
70Fine White Line
VS 4c 44
71Herbert's Horror
HS 4a 15
72The Mushroom
D 70
73Twinkle Ginger BeardV0 2
 Left Walls 
75The Gremp
S 4a 51
VD 57
77The Grump
S 4a 26
D 27
VS 4c 8
HS 4b 17
 The Pinnacle 
f4+ *4
83Stu's Traversef6C 2
84Weakling's Wall
HS 4b 7
85Gear Freak
f6C **5
86Totally Focussedf7A *19
87Totally Focussed SSf7A+ *17
88The Pocket Problemf5+ *8
89The Crank
E3 6b *1
90The Graunch
VS 4c *31
91The Octagonf6A+ 1
92Muscles Crack
HS 4b 39
93The Monkey's Paw
HVS 5b *8
94Beastmasterf6C **28
95Bumble Bee
S 4a *5
96Salita SilvestreVD 1
 Aviary Walls 
98Scoop Surprise
VD 4
99Head Whip
VD 6
100Bird Watcher
VS 5a *4
101The Ribulator
HS 4c 4
102Cutting Edge
VS 4c *2
103Antler Wall
VD 3
104Sheilgh's Wall
S 4a 2
 Black Buttress 
106Black Russian
E2 6a *4
107Black Sheep
HVS 5b 6
108Black Magicf6A+ **19
109Black Jack
E2 5c 6
110Black Jack SSf6C *3
111Black Lightf7B **10
112Black Light standing startf7A *10
113White Light / Black Light Variationf7A+ **2
114Black Edge
HS 4b 4
115Black Holef6C+ 5
116Labyrinthf6C *1
117Beneath the Labyrinthf7B+ *1
 Isolated Wall 
HVS 5a *1
HVS 5a  
VD 1
 Matterhorn Wall 
VD 1
VD 1
VS 5a * 
126The Bigger Plumf7B+ **1
127Three AmigosVS 4c *1
128Re-StileS 2
129BrambleVD 4
130StylophoneVS 4c 1
131Ronson LighterHVS 5a *3
132FargoHS 4b 1
133Simian DirectS 4a 3
134OrbituaryVD 1

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