Climbs 127
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 141m a.s.l
Faces W

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Warton Crag Upper © chris taylor

Crag features

Good short routes, and some superb bouldering in the V1 to V7 range with one hard (V11) traverse.

Approach notes

This crag is very hard to find the first (or even the second or third) time. It is best reached from the highest point on the Warton to Crag Foot road (GR SD487724). There is a five bar gate (memorial sign on wall adjacent) on the NE side of the road with a small parking spot about 80 metres NW. Follow the track through the gate till it peters out near two old baths. Ignore path continuing to a prominent gate in the same line. Instead, bear right towards a fence about 100m away. From the fence corner go left up a grassy sward to cross a stile through another barbed wire fence. The path leads quickly to a rocky outcrop (bit of wall visible on your right). Go right above the outcrop and contour for about 80m to find a small but well-worn path through dense scrub on your left. This path emerges soon on more open terrain. Bear left and head through some scruffy scrub to find the crag skulking in some trees.

Someone's been moving s%&t around at Warton, like they own the place. Please don't. I noticed someone has moved rocks around at Pinnacle Crag. Ok... So, now the path everyone uses is covered in big blocks, but no big deal - it was already uneven. However, up in the woods, there's a short crag with a couple of old bolts. Someone cut down a tree and used it and some earth to build themselves a flat landing. That tree was one of very few Lancaster Whitebeam left - a rare and endangered species of tree, that some oaf boulderer numpty, probably wearing a fluorescent beany, has made even rarer and more endangered through their ignorance. We don't care about you're "amazing send"; we do care about you f***ing the place up. So, if you can't do the route without destroying trees and plants and paths, don't f****ng climb the route! And, if you want to do some "crag maintenance", try talking to the ranger and the BMC first, rather than screwing around with no knowledge.
C Witter - 24/Jul/16
I've found the Aviary Walls, and the other small buttresses. From the Pinnacle, head downhill, into the woods, about a 2 or 3min walk. There are a few climbs that are good (e.g. Cutting Edge, VS) but, apart from the well-frequented Black Buttress, everything's a bit overgrown, especially at the top.
C Witter - 12/May/16
Did anyone find Aviary Wall? I missed it when I went for a half-hearted search. I went past plum buttress to the Pinnacle. Then I carried on, climbed over a barbed wire fence, went some way before ending up in a big grassy opening surrounded by briars, with a tiny (4ft) outcrop at the top. Any clues much appreciated!
C Witter - 22/Jul/15
does anyone know the climb between deadwood crack and lone tree gully. It is a really nice climb up the rib with good gear on small wires.
daviesxxx - 16/Jun/11
In between the dross there are some great lines worth seeking out on Plum Buttress. Good winters afternoon venue.
lozzer - 11/Dec/04
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Stile Buttress
2 Stile Corner M 8
3 Free Stile
-
HS 4b * 61
4 Jaywalk HVS 5a 8
5 Beacon Lighter
-
HVS 5a 32
6 Stile Ted Groove
-
VD 66
7 Simian
-
VD 80
8 Stile-ish Arete
-
S 4a 63
9 Which Way
-
VD 49
10 Tom's Crack S 4b 3
11 Ming
-
S 4a 68
12 Wedgewood
-
VD 47
13 Weather Wear f7A+ * 2
14 Blunt Arete f6B 2
15 Inverse Ape Eliminate * HS 4c 1
  Mounting Buttress
17 Mounting Block
-
S 4a * 41
18 Supination
-
VS 4c 26
19 Fading Light
-
HVS 5b 9
20 Inspired
-
S 4b 42
  Parson's Buttress
22 Far Flung VD 2
23 The Verger
-
VD 21
24 The Parson's Nose
-
VD 45
25 Bish's Tipple
-
S 4a 56
26 Plum Pudding f6B *** 3
27 Bashing the Bishop * VD  
  Plum Buttress
29 The Vine Line
-
HS 5b 31
30 Evolution f6A+ 9
31 Masters at Work f6B 20
32 Master of Prow f6C+ ** 3
33 Adora Kiora f6A  
34 Dihedral
-
VS 5a 19
35 Dihedral SDS f6A+ 19
36 Dihedral Traverse f6B+ 3
37 Yosemite Rib
-
VS 5a 14
38 Yosemite Rib Direct Start E3 6c 3
39 Debaser f7A+ ** 23
40 Debaser LH f7B * 11
41 The Plumbline
-
E3 6a ** 13
42 The Plumbline (Start) f7A * 13
43 Plumbase f7B * 3
44 The Plumbline Traverse f7A * 19
45 Low Traverse f6C 6c * 2
46 The Big Plum
-
HVS 5c * 49
Climb name Grade
47 The Big Plum Peach Finish HVS 5a * 9
48 Sugarfix f6C+ 24
49 Sugarfix SDS f7C ** 17
50 Lip Traverse f7A+ 1
51 E-Fix f7C * 13
52 Poison f7C+ * 11
53 Ebenezer Goode f8A ** 7
54 Goode Poison f8A 5
55 Voodoo People f7A+ ** 18
56 Voodoo People SS f7B ** 26
57 The Voodoo Fix f7C 2
58 Voodoo Magic f7C * 2
59 Hoodoo People f6C ** 50
60 Sulu People f6C+ 1
61 Lone Tree Variation
-
S 4b * 101
62 Lone Tree Groove
-
S 4a * 191
63 Nullarbor VS 5a * 13
64 Nullarbor SS f6B 9
65 Plum Buttress Girdle
-
HVS 5a * 8
66 The Prow * E3 6b 1
  Deadwood Area
68 Deadwood Crack
-
VS 5a 82
69 Flake and Wall
-
S 4a 200
70 Wart
-
VD 67
71 Thrutch
-
VD 106
72 The Super Mario Traverse S 4b 13
73 The Morning After
-
VS 4c 117
74 Fine White Line
-
VS 4c 62
75 Herbert's Horror
-
HS 4a 22
76 The Mushroom
-
D 78
77 Twinkle Ginger Beard V0 3
  Left Walls
79 The Gremp
-
S 4a 66
80 Skutch
-
VD 73
81 The Grump
-
S 4a 31
82 Dollard
-
D 31
83 Orbit
-
VS 4c 9
84 Triplanetary
-
HS 4b 24
  The Pinnacle
86 Xtravaganza
-
f4+ * 6
87 Stu's Traverse f6C 7
88 Weakling's Wall
-
HS 4b 7
89 Gear Freak
-
f6C ** 8
90 Totally Focussed f7A * 20
91 Totally Focussed SS f7A+ * 19
92 The Pocket Problem f5+ * 10
Climb name Grade
93 The Crank
-
E3 6b * 1
94 The Graunch
-
VS 4c * 36
95 The Octagon f6A+ 2
96 Muscles Crack
-
HS 4b 45
97 The Monkey's Paw
-
HVS 5b * 9
98 Beastmaster f6C ** 35
99 Bumble Bee
-
S 4a * 5
100 Salita Silvestre VD 1
  Aviary Walls
102 Scoop Surprise
-
VD 4
103 Head Whip
-
VD 6
104 Bird Watcher
-
VS 5a * 4
105 The Ribulator
-
HS 4c 4
106 Cutting Edge
-
VS 4c * 5
107 Antler Wall
-
VD 5
108 Sheilgh's Wall
-
S 4a 2
  Black Buttress
110 Black Russian
-
E2 6a * 5
111 Black Sheep
-
HVS 5b 7
112 Black Magic f6A+ ** 25
113 Black Jack
-
E2 5c 10
114 Black Jack SS f6C * 4
115 Black Light f7B ** 13
116 Black Light standing start f7A * 13
117 White Light / Black Light Variation f7A+ ** 4
118 Black Edge
-
HS 4b 4
119 Black Hole f6C+ 6
120 Labyrinth f6C * 1
121 Beneath the Labyrinth f7B+ * 1
  Isolated Wall
123 Quarantine
-
HVS 5a * 2
124 Seclusion
-
HVS 5a  
125 Hermitage
-
VD 1
  Matterhorn Wall
127 Hornli
-
VD 1
128 Carrel
-
VD 1
129 Whymper
-
VS 5a *  
130 The Bigger Plum f7B+ ** 1
131 Three Amigos VS 4c * 4
132 Re-Stile S 8
133 Bramble VD 8
134 Stylophone VS 4c 3
135 Ronson Lighter HVS 5a * 9
136 Fargo HS 4b 3
137 Simian Direct S 4a 6
138 Orbituary VD 3
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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