Climbs 85
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 70m a.s.l
Faces SW

'Bleep & Booster', Chapel Head Scar © Fraser

Crag features

Chapel Head Scar is the finest limestone crag in Cumbria and stands comparison with the best on offer in the UK offering some superb hard sport routes set in one of the Lake District's least-travelled and quaintest corners. The crag is extensive but only around half of it is developed due to access considerations. What is developed is simply brilliant and gives routes of diversity and length all on beautifully structured buttresses. The three major sectors each have a distinct character, ranging from long technical wall climbs through to steep and pumpy tufas.

2013 Note: bird ban lifted early, open to climbing from May

2013 Note 2: The Android tree is no more so routes previously starting up this are now significantly harder!!!

Approach notes

Climbing is BANNED at Chapel Head Scar between February 1st and June 30th due to nesting Periguines. Some years the ban is lifted early or not imposed at all. To check on the situation contact the BMC. If the signs on the boards at the Car Park and on the approach path say that climbing is closed then the ban is on.

There is also a no bolting or gardening agreement at Chapel Head (see BMC access information.

The final ban is on any climbing or developement at anytime to the left side of the Scar. The boundary is very clearly marked on the notice boards at the car-park, the approach path and at the base of the crag itself. Chapel Head is a very environmentally sensitive site and any infringement of the bans could easily lead to a total ban on all clmbing access.

Restricted Access

The crag lies within a National Nature Reserve and is an important area of SSSI semi-ancient woodland with Special Protection Area (SPA) status. The Lake District National Park Authority (responsible for managing recreation at Chapel Head) and the BMC have worked closely together to promote good practice at the crag - please respect the following: 1. No access to cliffs north of central gully. 2. Please do not remove ivy or damage trees along crag base. 3. Take all litter home with you. 4. There are no toilets at Chapel Head - please be discreet.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Northern Limestone : Yorkshire, Cumbria, Lancashire

Northern Limestone : Yorkshire, Cumbria, Lancashire covers some of the best limestone crags in the UK including the big three of Malham, Kilnsey and Gordale. Alongside these titans are numerous other destinations that offer both sport and trad climbing throughout the grades, ranging from the intimidating walls of Blue Scar and Trow Gill to the long lines of newly-developed low to mid-grade sport crags such as Moughton Nab and Giggleswick South. Trad climbing is also well catered for on the walls and escarpments at the likes of Trowbarrow Quarry, Twistleton Scar, Attermire Scar and Witches Quarry.
More info
Anybody know campsites close to this crag?
mrajyandy - 19/Aug/14
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Gully Wall 
2Cool Your Jets Mum6c 12
3La Flange en Decomposition6b *66
4Gully Wall6b *22
5Gully Wall Variation6b+ *16
6Gully Wall Direct
6c *6
7Winter Pincher6c+ 5
8Oddbods6c *12
9Strongbow6b+ *21
10Comedy Show6b 28
11The VeilVS 4b 6
 Moonchild Buttress 
13Yashmak6c 2
14The Heinous Penis6c *31
15Starshine6a 51
16Jelly Head7a *20
17Interstellar Overdrive6c+ ***182
18DuneE4 6a *1
19Cement Head7a+ **50
20Sun God6a 47
21Combat Plumber7a **22
22Zantom Phone7c+ ***4
23Phantom Zone7c ***55
24Phantom Zone Extension
7c ***25
25Stan Pulsar7b+ **8
26Surfing with the Alien8a *3
27Bleep and Booster7a **100
28MoonchildE4 6a **39
29Moonchild6c+ **1
30The Moon Loon ConnectionE4 6a ***4
61Calling Mr Hall8a **5
62Wargames7b+ ***120
63More Games7b ***11
64Stretchy Perineum7b+ ***16
65Perverted Start7b+ **7
66For When the Tree Falls7c 2
67AndroidE4 5c ***22
68Perverse Pepere7a **24
69A Song for Europe7b+ ***21
70For When Europe Falls7c ***1
71La Mangoustine Scatouflange7a+ ***45
72Witherslack Flange Finish7a+ *1
73Super Dupont7b+ ***47
74Super Duper Dupont7c ***44
75Prime Evil7c+ ***10
76Unrighteous Doctors7c+ ***11
77Doctor Evil8a ***18
78Tufa King Hard6c ***270
79Tufa King Far Finish7b+ **1
80Driller King6c **2
81Driller Killer7a+ **30
82Meeting People...7c **1
83Videodrome7b+ **8
84Warm Push6c *46
85Reefer Madness6c+ *52
86Doctor's Dilemma6c+ 13
87Cosmic Dancer7b **2
 unknown climbs 
89Cygnus X1
E1 5b 2

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