Climbs 94
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 70m a.s.l
Faces SW

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'Bleep & Booster', Chapel Head Scar © Fraser

Crag features

Chapel Head Scar is the finest limestone crag in Cumbria and stands comparison with the best on offer in the UK offering some superb hard sport routes set in one of the Lake District's least-travelled and quaintest corners. The crag is extensive but only around half of it is developed due to access considerations. What is developed is simply brilliant and gives routes of diversity and length all on beautifully structured buttresses. The three major sectors each have a distinct character, ranging from long technical wall climbs through to steep and pumpy tufas.

2013 Note: bird ban lifted early, open to climbing from May
2013 Note 2: The Android tree is no more so routes previously starting up this are now significantly harder!!!

Approach notes

Climbing is BANNED at Chapel Head Scar between February 1st and June 30th due to nesting Perigrines. Some years the ban is lifted early or not imposed at all. To check on the situation contact the BMC. If the signs on the boards at the Car Park and on the approach path say that climbing is closed then the ban is on.
There is also a no bolting or gardening agreement at Chapel Head (see BMC access information.
The final ban is on any climbing or developement at anytime to the left side of the Scar. The boundary is very clearly marked on the notice boards at the car-park, the approach path and at the base of the crag itself. Chapel Head is a very environmentally sensitive site and any infringement of the bans could easily lead to a total ban on all clmbing access.

Access Advice

The crag lies within a National Nature Reserve and is an important area of SSSI semi-ancient woodland with Special Protection Area (SPA) status. The Lake District National Park Authority (responsible for managing recreation at Chapel Head) and the BMC have worked closely together to develop the following good practice guidelines which should be followed by all climbers visiting the crag:

  • No access to cliffs north of central gully.
  • Please do not remove ivy or damage trees along crag base.
  • Take all litter home with you.
  • There are no toilets at Chapel Head - please be discreet.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

The restriction is signed and applies to the whole crag.

The birds are regularly monitored and the restriction lifted early if it's not needed. However, it is worth bearing in mind that this is a very reliable site for peregrines and it unusual that they don't nest. If the birds fledge early or the nest fails, any update will be posted on this page as soon as we know about it.

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Guidebooks

Northern Limestone : Yorkshire, Cumbria, Lancashire

Northern Limestone : Yorkshire, Cumbria, Lancashire covers some of the best limestone crags in the UK including the big three of Malham, Kilnsey and Gordale. Alongside these titans are numerous other destinations that offer both sport and trad climbing throughout the grades, ranging from the intimidating walls of Blue Scar and Trow Gill to the long lines of newly-developed low to mid-grade sport crags such as Moughton Nab and Giggleswick South. Trad climbing is also well catered for on the walls and escarpments at the likes of Trowbarrow Quarry, Twistleton Scar, Attermire Scar and Witches Quarry.
More info
Anybody know campsites close to this crag?
mrajyandy - 19/Aug/14
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Gully Wall
2 Cool Your Jets Mum 6c 14
3 La Flange en Decomposition 6b * 98
4 Gully Wall 6b * 38
5 Gully Wall Variation 6b+ * 23
6 Gully Wall Direct
-
6c * 7
7 Winter Pincher 6c+ 5
8 Oddbods 6c * 14
9 Strongbow 6b+ * 31
10 Comedy Show 6b 31
11 The Veil VS 4b 4
  Moonchild Buttress
13 Burkini 5b * 8
14 Yashmak 6c 2
15 The Heinous Penis 6c * 38
16 Starshine 6a 146
17 Jelly Head 7a * 28
18 Interstellar Overdrive 6c+ *** 234
19 Dune E4 6a * 1
20 Cement Head 7a+ ** 67
21 Sun God 6a 98
22 Combat Plumber 7a ** 53
23 Zantom Phone 7c+ *** 12
24 Phantom Zone 7c *** 96
25 Stan Pulsar 7b+ ** 10
26 Surfing with the Alien 8a * 4
27 Bleep and Booster 7a ** 134
28 Moonchild E4 6a ** 43
29 Moonchild (Sport) 6c+ ** 97
30 The Moon Loon Connection E4 6a *** 7
31 War of the Worlds 7a ** 9
32 62 West Wallaby Street 7a+ * 26
33 War Hero 7a *** 214
Climb name Grade
34 Tricky Pricky Ears 7b *** 46
35 Tricky Lunatic 7a  
36 Lunatic E3 5c ** 22
37 Lunatic (Sport) 6c ** 7
38 Darth Vadar E5 6a 1
39 Darth Vadar (Sport) 7a+ ** 1
40 Maboulisme Merveilleux 7c+ ** 15
41 Not the full shilling 7b+ *** 1
42 War of the Pulsar's 7a ** 1
  Great Wall
44 The Route of All Evil 7a+ *** 52
45 The Route of All Evil Direct 7b *** 12
46 Eraser Head/The True Path 7b+ *** 31
47 Route of All Evil/The Borg (Linkup) 7a ** 3
48 Cyborg E2 5b * 17
49 Mid-air Collision/Flight Path 7b *** 64
50 The Borg 7a+ ** 24
51 The Omega Factor 6c 10
52 Barney Rubble 6c ** 2
53 Betty Rubble 6c ** 1
  The Great Buttress
55 Sad But True 6c+ 8
56 Half Life (Left Finish) 6c+ 9
57 Half Life Direct 6b+ * 29
58 Up Town 6c ** 82
59 Up Town (Left Finish) 6c+ 6
60 Atomic Bong
-
E1 5b 9
61 Chain Reaction
-
E3 5c 5
62 Witherslack Alice 6c * 85
63 Witherslack Town 6c *** 71
64 Shades of Mediocrity 7a * 109
65 Gilbert Cardigan 7a+ ** 105
66 Guloot Kalagna 7c ** 11
Climb name Grade
67 Electric Warrior 7b *** 96
68 Agent Provocateur 7c ** 1
69 Calling Mr Hall 8a ** 6
70 Wargames 7b+ *** 132
71 More Games 7b *** 17
72 More Games (Alternative) 7b+ **  
73 Stretchy Perineum 7b+ *** 19
74 Perverted Start 7b+ ** 6
75 For When the Tree Falls 7c 2
76 Android E4 5c *** 27
77 Android (Sport) 6c *** 1
78 Perverse Pepere 7a ** 36
79 A Song for Europe 7b+ *** 21
80 For When Europe Falls 7c *** 1
81 La Mangoustine Scatouflange 7a+ *** 48
82 Witherslack Flange Finish 7a+ * 1
83 Super Dupont 7b+ *** 64
84 Super Duper Dupont 7c *** 58
85 Prime Evil 7c+ *** 27
86 Unrighteous Doctors 7c+ *** 8
87 Doctor Evil 8a *** 22
88 Tufa King Hard 6c *** 359
89 Tufa King Far Finish 7b+ ** 2
90 Driller King 6c ** 3
91 Driller Killer 7a+ ** 31
92 Meeting People... 7c ** 1
93 Videodrome 7b+ ** 7
94 Warm Push 6c * 54
95 Reefer Madness 6c+ * 63
96 Doctor's Dilemma 6c+ 13
97 Cosmic Dancer 7b ** 2
  unknown climbs
99 Cygnus X1
-
E1 5b 2

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