Altitude 70m a.s.l
'Bleep & Booster', Chapel Head Scar © Fraser
Chapel Head Scar is the finest limestone crag in Cumbria and stands comparison with the best on offer in the UK offering some superb hard sport routes set in one of the Lake District's least-travelled and quaintest corners. The crag is extensive but only around half of it is developed due to access considerations. What is developed is simply brilliant and gives routes of diversity and length all on beautifully structured buttresses. The three major sectors each have a distinct character, ranging from long technical wall climbs through to steep and pumpy tufas.
2013 Note: bird ban lifted early, open to climbing from May
2013 Note 2: The Android tree is no more so routes previously starting up this are now significantly harder!!!
Climbing is BANNED at Chapel Head Scar between February 1st and June 30th due to nesting Perigrines. Some years the ban is lifted early or not imposed at all. To check on the situation contact the BMC. If the signs on the boards at the Car Park and on the approach path say that climbing is closed then the ban is on.
There is also a no bolting or gardening agreement at Chapel Head (see BMC access information.
The final ban is on any climbing or developement at anytime to the left side of the Scar. The boundary is very clearly marked on the notice boards at the car-park, the approach path and at the base of the crag itself. Chapel Head is a very environmentally sensitive site and any infringement of the bans could easily lead to a total ban on all clmbing access.
The crag lies within a National Nature Reserve and is an important area of SSSI semi-ancient woodland with Special Protection Area (SPA) status. The Lake District National Park Authority (responsible for managing recreation at Chapel Head) and the BMC have worked closely together to develop the following good practice guidelines which should be followed by all climbers visiting the crag:
Dates: 1 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
The restriction is signed and applies to the whole crag.
The birds are regularly monitored and the restriction lifted early if it's not needed. However, it is worth bearing in mind that this is a very reliable site for peregrines and it unusual that they don't nest. If the birds fledge early or the nest fails, any update will be posted on this page as soon as we know about it.
|Anybody know campsites close to this crag?|
mrajyandy - 19/Aug/14
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer tomhull