Climbs 84
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 150m a.s.l
Faces SW

Evening cloud inversion on the Solway seen from Clifton Crag, Dumfries-shire © Stephen Reid - Needle Sports

Crag features

Warm, dry, and sunny crag with good views over the Lakes and the Solway coast. Climbing is steep.

Approach notes

DO NOT ask for permission to climb at the farm before climbing. Please do not disturb the owner. Keep dogs on a lead when in the fields. BIRD BAN: In spring, peregrines often nest near The Main Area or Red Slab and these buttresses should be avoided at this time.

From most areas, the best approach is via the A710, S from Dumfries. 1.5mi N of the car park at Sandyhills Bay there is an narrow lane on the R (W) and some outcrops can be seen on the hillside to the N. The lane is signed variously to Southwick Cemetery, Nether Clifton and Clifton Farm. Follow the lane for about 1 mile to a small lay-by on the L just past Upper Clifton Farm, which is itself just beyond the cemetery.

A granite stile leads into a field. Walk straight across this (wellies advised), just to the left of the new farm buildings, to an angle in the far wall. A second stile is hidden some 15m to the right.

Cross the next field (keeping an eye out for the bull that sometimes lurks there) to a gate in the far corner, under Hollowstones Wall. [thanks Stephen Reid for info]

Guidebooks

Visited this surprisingly good crag on a day trip from Newcastle. Closer than half of the Lakes and better than half of the County. Unless I've improved massively overnight, the grades are of the 'sympathetic' variety. The bracken is unpleasant, so do your walking on the top.
Richard Alderton - 16/Apr/12
A nice crag, think along the lines of Rivelin or similar in the Peak. Some great routes but the grading really needs sorting out - when the guide says something is easy for the grade, think easy for the grade below that given, i.e. easy E1 is really easy HVS! Good for breaking into leading at a particular grade though.
Bob - 04/May/09
Excellent for a day out. Dirl Chimney is well worth its three-stars! Heading to Twin Cracks Buttress? We found it easier to walk along the top of the crag from Hollowstones Wall and descend (walk) immediately from above the farm house. The path along the bottom of the crag is lost in brambles and bracken at the present (16/07/2006).
K Wall - 17/Jul/06
Great place 2 learn to lead. Fantastic short routes on excellent rock with easy gear placements. Check out the Dirl Chimney (VS 4c ***).
camw - 29/Dec/05
Worth a visit. Some excellent middle grade routes and new bouldering developments. Go and do Wall Street....
GCW - 17/Oct/02
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Hollostones Wall
2 Sideshoot VS 4b 154
3 Sideshow E1 5b 23
4 Sidekick HS 4b * 172
5 Aquiline
-
E1 5b 27
6 Jeune Ecole S 4b ** 317
7 Overground
-
S 4b * 140
8 Outcast
-
HVS 5a 24
9 Infill E1 5b 3
10 Hollowstones chimney HS 4a * 45
  Dirl Chimney Area
12 Gramercy S 4a * 46
13 Dirl Chimney VS 4c *** 282
14 Monkey Business
-
HVS 5a 16
15 Lemur
-
E3 6a * 2
16 Gibbon in Wonderland
-
VS 5a ** 91
17 Blazing Apostles E1 5b ** 37
18 Tour de Force
-
VS 4c ** 103
19 Owl Cave
-
D 12
  Jigsaw Buttress
21 The Sucker
-
E1 5a 1
22 Lipstick
-
HS 4b * 38
23 Stiff Upper Lip
-
S 4a * 34
24 Lip Service Direct
-
VS 5a 17
25 Hotlips VS 4c ** 60
26 Labrum
-
E1 5a * 17
  Main Wall
28 Long Ears
-
HS 4b 12
29 Le Tour
-
VD 1
30 Le Coin
-
VD 2
31 Easy Street
-
VS 4b  
32 Bright Eyes
-
VS 4c 2
33 Long Ears/Liplet Direct combination
-
VS 4c ** 22
34 Liplet
-
S 4b ** 80
35 Ratten's Rest
-
HVS 5b * 30
36 Wall Street
-
E1 5b *** 153
37 The Groove
-
VS 4c 38
38 Novice Crack VS 4b * 41
39 Kenny's Chimney VS 4b * 15
40 The Arete
-
E2 5b *** 60
41 Elders Crack
-
VS 4b * 122
42 Muckle Knob
-
VD 15
43 The Esplanade D 12
44 Peguses HS 4b 6
45 Red Slab
-
VS 5a 11
46 D.I.Y. HVS 5a * 17
47 D.I.Y. Low Variation E1 5b * 1
48 Toddamundo E4 6a ** 1
49 Nebula
-
E1 5b 5
50 Crosswires
-
E1 5b 4
51 Fingerlust
-
E4 6a *** 8
52 Dulce Cour HVS *  
  Twin Cracks Buttress
54 Horner Corner
-
VD 8
55 Crawl Wall
-
VS 4c * 15
56 Wiggle
-
HVS 5b * 9
57 The Direct HVS 5a * 20
58 Crackshot HVS 5a * 12
59 Revolver
-
E1 5b * 10
60 Bullet
-
HVS 5a 14
61 Twin Cracks VS 4b ** 75
62 Clifton Pinnacle
-
S 4a 4
  Jugular Vein Buttress
64 The Pinnacles
-
S 4a 5
65 Essence of Giraffe
-
E1 5c  
66 Beyond the Terminator
-
E3 6a ** 2
67 Moonshine E2 5c *** 11
68 The Slash
-
HVS 5a ** 18
69 Slashshine
-
E1 5b ** 7
70 Jugular Vein
-
E1 5b *** 51
71 Loneliness of the long distance runner E4 6a  
72 Little Wall
-
E1 5a 2
73 Crack up
-
HS 4a 5
74 Sunset
-
VS 4c * 5
75 The Corner D 1
  Little Clifton
77 Gorilla Warfare
-
VS 5a * 2
78 Piece of Cake
-
VS 4c ** 3
  Bouldering
80 Quarter Knife f6B+ 1
81 Knife Direct f7A 1
82 Knife Party f7C **  
83 Half Knife f7B *  
84 Study Break f6B * 1
85 Trauma
-
f7B+ *  
86 Wall Problem f7B  
87 Paul's Dyno f6B+ ***  
88 Zillion Dollar Sadist f8A+ **  
89 Trauma Wall f7C+  
90 Dwarf Cave Traverse f6B  
91 6 Inches f6A  
92 Frictional Belief E2 5b **  

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