Climbs 86
Rocktype Rhyolite

Faces E

Liquid dawn. North Wales © Tom Challands

Crag features

Old-school climbing, with long easy mountaineering routes, in a spectacular setting. The clean rock is almost always climbable, even in the wet. Long multi-pitch routes to 190 metres.

Approach notes

You really can't miss it, as you travel from the road from Capel Curig.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

North Wales Climbs

North Wales Climbs covers the best climbing from the whole of this huge and varied area. The book is modelled on the very popular West Country Climbs which set a new standard for selected climb guidebooks back in 2010. It contains all the routes from the 2010 publication North Wales Classics and many more routes and areas, with expanded descriptions and much bigger photo-topos. The book covers all the major mountain crags from Llanberis Pass, to Cloggy; and from Ogwen to the Carneddau. It also includes the Llanberis Slate quarries, Tremadog, the Moelwyns, the Gwynant Valley, Mid-Wales, Gogarth and the North Coast Limestone.
More info

North Wales Classics

A significant addition to the Rockfax stable; North Wales Classics is a pocket-sized guide packs in hundreds of superb routes throughout the mountains of Snowdonia. From Tremadog to Tryfan, and everywhere in between, the book covers mid-grade routes on the best crags and features top-notch photo-topos and inspirational action shots taking you where you want to go.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Ogwen (2010)
North Wales Rock (2006)
Ogwen and Carneddau (1993)

Out of print:
There are no comments from visitors to this crag.
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Scrambling routes
2 Tryfan summit summit *** 1704
3 Wrinkle Ridge 3 14
4 The North Ridge (Summer) 1 *** 1541
5 The North Ridge (Winter)
-
I/II *** 434
6 The South Ridge
-
1 ** 352
7 The Bochlwyd Horseshoe 1 *** 159
8 wrinkled tower
-
3 *** 86
9 West Face Route
-
3 28
10 Milestone Gully Approach
-
2 ** 56
11 Milestone Continuation
-
3 ** 43
12 South Gulley 2 * 10
13 South Buttress 3 * 21
14 Little Gully
-
1 16
  East Face
16 Beside the Index
-
VD  
17 Progressive Cracks
-
VD  
18 Index Climb
-
M 1
19 Bubbly Wall
-
HS 4b * 51
20 South Rib
-
M 26
21 Arête Climb
-
S 4b ** 104
22 Apex Route
-
VD 13
23 Crackerjack HS 4c * 8
24 South Chimney
-
M 1
25 Left Wall Way
-
S 9
26 Gashed Crag VD ** 828
27 South Gully Wall
-
VS 4c 1
28 The Temple
-
HVS  
29 Munich Climb HVS 5a ** 250
30 South Gully Rib
-
D 7
31 Stoat's Groove
-
VD  
32 South Gully (Winter) III 3 9
33 South Gully
-
M 81
34 Ghost Chimney
-
S 4a 3
35 The Wall
-
HS 4b * 21
36 Thomson's Chimney
-
HS 4b * 232
37 Innominate Wall VS 4c 1
38 Central Bypass
-
VD 13
39 Overlapping Ridge Route (First Pinnacle Rib) D ** 972
40 Pinnacle Rib Route D *** 1376
41 East Of Eden VS 5a 9
42 Crevassed Rib
-
HS 4b * 7
43 Northern Rib
-
D 10
44 Little & North Gullies 1 ** 159
45 Little Gully (Winter)
-
I/II 10
46 North Side Route
-
VS 4c * 3
47 North Gully
-
D 25
48 North Gully (Winter)
-
II/III 21
49 Pinnacle Route
-
D 38
50 Spillikin Wall
-
M  
51 Eighty-Foot Route
-
VD * 7
52 The Girdle Traverse
-
VS 4c 2
53 Terrace Wall Variant
-
VD * 17
54 Linear Climb
-
S 4a * 5
55 Long Chimney - The Right-Hand branch
-
S 4a 1
56 Long Chimney VS 4c 7
57 Beeline
-
VS 5a 1
58 Cheek
-
S 4
59 Scars Climb
-
HVS 5a ** 16
60 Spider Wall
-
HVS 5a  
61 Central Route
-
VS 5a ** 22
62 Gone to the Dogs
-
E3 5c  
63 Belle Vue Bastion VS 4c ** 442
64 Central Chimney
-
HVS 5a 1
65 The Flange
-
HVS 5a  
66 North Buttress Route D ** 312
67 North Buttress Route - Variation Start HS 4b 47
68 North Buttress Variant 2 * 68
69 Kirkus's Superdirect
-
VS 4c * 26
70 Grooved Arête HVD 4a *** 2893
71 Grooved Arête - Direct route from the Haven
-
S 8
72 Green Gully (Winter) III * 3
73 Green Gully
-
D 8
74 Yew Buttress Route
-
HS 4a 4
75 Mea Route
-
VD 1
76 Green Gully Buttress Route
-
D 3
77 Snowstorm
-
VS 5a 6
78 Nor' Nor' Groove 2 * 93
79 Nor' Nor' Gully
-
M 47
80 Nor' Nor' Gully (Winter) II 14
81 Nor' Nor' Buttress
-
D 79
82 Nor' Nor' Buttress - Enigma Variation
-
VS 4b 1
83 Nor' Nor' Buttress - Opus One
-
VD 2
84 Nor' Nor' Buttress Variation
-
3 71
85 Bastow Gully 2 37
86 Bastow Buttress
-
VD 39
87 Bastow Gulley (Winter) I 13
88 Bastow Buttress Variant
-
3 ** 122

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer BStar