Climbs 48
Rocktype Rhyolite
Altitude 400m a.s.l
Faces NW

Direct Route (HD), Milestone Buttress, Ogwen Valley © Steve Ashton

Crag features

Excellent rock, entirely solid, comprising both juggy thuggery and slippery slabbing. Often busy. Multi-pitch to 100 metres.

Approach notes

The final buttress as the North Ridge of Tryfan descends into the Ogwne Valley, just a few minutes up from the road.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

North Wales Climbs

North Wales Climbs covers the best climbing from the whole of this huge and varied area. The book is modelled on the very popular West Country Climbs which set a new standard for selected climb guidebooks back in 2010. It contains all the routes from the 2010 publication North Wales Classics and many more routes and areas, with expanded descriptions and much bigger photo-topos. The book covers all the major mountain crags from Llanberis Pass, to Cloggy; and from Ogwen to the Carneddau. It also includes the Llanberis Slate quarries, Tremadog, the Moelwyns, the Gwynant Valley, Mid-Wales, Gogarth and the North Coast Limestone.
More info

North Wales Classics

A significant addition to the Rockfax stable; North Wales Classics is a pocket-sized guide packs in hundreds of superb routes throughout the mountains of Snowdonia. From Tremadog to Tryfan, and everywhere in between, the book covers mid-grade routes on the best crags and features top-notch photo-topos and inspirational action shots taking you where you want to go.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Ogwen (2010)
North Wales Rock (2006)
Ogwen and Carneddau (1993)
Descent gully practically a waterfall after moderate rain the day before.
naath - 27/Apr/15
I would definitely expect to abseil down the descent gully just right of Pulpit Route. And it's about 50m...
MatthewV - 26/Apr/15
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Milestone Buttress Approach
-
3 *** 164
2 Milestone Gully Approach 2 ** 111
3 End of the Eclair E5 6a 1
  The Back of the Millstone
5 Hangman Gut
-
S  
6 Hangman's Wall
-
VS 4c 2
7 Korero
-
E6 6b *  
8 Bishop's Gut
-
VS 4c 7
9 En Passant
-
E1 5b * 2
10 Au Suivant
-
E3 6a *  
11 Cantilever Route
-
S 10
12 Holly Route
-
M 6
13 Postern Gate and Holly Crack
-
M 5
14 Gate Chimney
-
VD 6
15 The Lost Slab VS 4c  
16 Canopy Route
-
D 21
17 Vae
-
HS 4b 5
18 Boot Crack HVS 5a * 69
19 The Pals
-
HVS 5a 1
20 Rope Wall
-
VS 5a * 9
21 Bowline
-
VS 4c 8
22 Crazy Horse E3 6a ** 1
23 Soapgut
-
HS 4b ** 310
24 Soapgut - Chimney Route Finish HS 4b ** 68
25 Soapgut - Squint Start
-
HS 4a 4
26 Soap Opera E1 5c 1
27 Soap Crack and Rib
-
HVS 5b * 49
28 Wall Climb HS 4b * 146
29 Wall Climb - Direct Finish
-
VS  
  The Central Block
31 Chimney Route
-
HS 4a 84
32 The Tree of Man
-
E5 6b 1
33 The Ambassador E8 6c ***  
34 The Wrinkled Retainer E5 6c *** 3
35 Crosscut E2 5b ** 9
36 Rope Crack
-
S 2
  The Front of the Millstone
38 Ordinary Route
-
D 264
39 Superdirect HVS 5a *** 727
40 Direct Route VD *** 2300
41 Rowan Route D ** 1268
42 Pod Route S 5
43 Pulpit Route VD ** 1457
44 The Dictatorship of Shackistan HVS 5b 1
45 Little Gully Wall
-
HS 4b * 23
46 The Black Vegtable
-
HVS 5a  
47 The Sylvan Traverse M 2
48 Groovy ArĂȘte
-
E5 6a  
49 West Ridge 1 5
50 Milestone Continuation
-
3 ** 136
51 Ivy Chimney VD 1

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Big Lee