Climbs 102
Rocktype Rhyolite
Altitude 994m a.s.l
Faces all

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Y Gribin in the rain - Why would you want to be anywhere else? © Migsy

Crag features

Clean, rough rock of excellent quality. Good selection of middle grade routes in a mountain setting. Mainly multi-pitch routes to 125 metres.

Approach notes

From beside Llyn Bochlwyd, after the steep approacg to the Cwm, the cliff can be seen amongst the high surrounding ridges. Avoid the steep screes below the cliff by making use ofthe track to Bwlch Tryfan and cutting across the hillside.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

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Guidebooks

North Wales Climbs

North Wales Climbs covers the best climbing from the whole of this huge and varied area. The book is modelled on the very popular West Country Climbs which set a new standard for selected climb guidebooks back in 2010. It contains all the routes from the 2010 publication North Wales Classics and many more routes and areas, with expanded descriptions and much bigger photo-topos. The book covers all the major mountain crags from Llanberis Pass, to Cloggy; and from Ogwen to the Carneddau. It also includes the Llanberis Slate quarries, Tremadog, the Moelwyns, the Gwynant Valley, Mid-Wales, Gogarth and the North Coast Limestone.
More info

North Wales Classics

A significant addition to the Rockfax stable; North Wales Classics is a pocket-sized guide packs in hundreds of superb routes throughout the mountains of Snowdonia. From Tremadog to Tryfan, and everywhere in between, the book covers mid-grade routes on the best crags and features top-notch photo-topos and inspirational action shots taking you where you want to go.
More info
Penglog buttress ??
Sy Finch - 10/Jan/12
Would like to add Penglog Buttress
Neil Watson - 24/Aug/11
Sorry - meant 620 metres - by the contour lines
glyn28 - 04/Jan/06
Altitude unknown? Is is not 994 metres?
glyn28 - 04/Jan/06
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Glyder Fach
2 Glyder Fach Summit
-
summit 1450
3 Nant Bochlwyd I/II * 7
4 The Chasm Face
-
3 *** 146
  Bristly Ridge
6 Bristly Ridge
-
1 *** 1310
7 Bristly Ridge II 2/3 *** 317
  Penglog Buttress
9 Firebird Ridge
-
VD 4
10 Balti Blues
-
S 4a 5
11 Balti Boulevard
-
VD 6
  East Buttress
13 Square Chimney S  
14 Square Chimney Buttress S 1
15 Square Chimney Buttress V 6 * 2
16 Dancing Queen IV 5 * 6
17 Honey, Honey IV 5 *  
18 Mama Mia IV 5 *  
19 Oblique Buttress Direct VS 4c  
20 Oblique Buttress S * 13
21 Oblique Gully VD 1
22 Oblique Gully (winter) V 6 ** 3
23 Quixote E4 6a ** 2
24 Gryngolet HVS 5a  
25 Errant Route S 4a  
26 Arch Gully D 1
27 Arch Gully (Winter)
-
V 6 *** 17
28 Out to Lunch
-
E3 5c * 1
29 Slab Route VD ** 63
30 The Spiral Variant D 8
31 Arch Chimney HS 4b  
32 Arch Chimney (Winter) V 6 ** 3
33 Main Gully
-
1 ** 108
34 Main Gully
-
III 3/4 * 37
35 Main Gully Ridge
-
3 *** 68
36 Direct Route VS 4c *** 487
37 The Winter Finish VD 13
38 Gibson's Chimney
-
VS 4c 30
Climb name Grade
39 Brown's Corner HVS 5b  
40 The Tombstone Crack HS 4b *  
41 The Left-Hand Crack VS 5a * 10
42 The Right-Hand Crack HVS 5b * 18
43 Hodgkin's Variation S * 19
44 Deviation
-
E1 5c ** 7
45 Glyder Crack
-
E6 6b ** 2
46 Kaya E7 6b ** 2
47 The Sentinel E8 6c *  
48 The Watchtower
-
E3 5c * 7
49 Lot's Wife VS 4c * 79
50 Lot's Wife/Left-hand Crack VS 5a ** 1
51 Lot's Groove HVS 5b *** 107
52 Chasm Route VD ** 151
53 Corkscrew Crack S 1
54 Chasm Crack VS 4c 3
55 Chasm Rib S * 1
56 Senile Saunter
-
E3 5c ** 1
57 Chasm Chimney D 7
58 Girdle Traverse of East Buttress
-
HS 4b 1
59 Lot's Child VS 4c 1
60 Main Gully Ridge M 10
61 The Upper Section III 2
  Alphabet Slabs
63 Alpha VS 4b * 80
64 Beta M 30
65 Gamma S 4a * 153
66 Delta D * 71
67 Omega
-
S 5
68 Octogenarian VS 5a 1
69 East Gully ArĂȘte D 106
70 East Gully S 6
71 East Gully Scramble 1 * 9
  Gable Buttress
73 Close To Me E3 6a * 1
74 Get Close HVS 5a ** 19
75 Hyndsight
-
E4 6a ** 3
76 The Hollow Men
-
E2 5c * 2
Climb name Grade
  Hawks Nest Buttress
78 Hawk Slab VD 1
79 The Last Pretender E2 5c * 2
80 Hawk's Nest ArĂȘte VS 4c *** 114
81 Slim Chance E1 5c * 5
82 Hawk's Nest Buttress S 4b * 43
83 Needle's Eye Climb VD * 11
84 Shark Buttress (Shark Pinnacle) 3 *** 110
85 Groove Route
-
M  
  Little Buttress
87 Back Door VD  
88 Wristy Business
-
E3 5c * 2
89 Little Buttress S 1
90 Lower Dolmen Rib D 1
  Dolmen Buttres
92 Route II D ** 10
93 Route II V 6 *** 1
94 Druid Route S  
95 Y Gododdin
-
HS *  
96 Route 1 VD  
97 Dolmen Ridge M *** 442
  West Buttress
99 Central Gully
-
II/III * 30
100 Sidewalk VD  
101 Intermitten Gully
-
M  
102 Hyperbolic Slab
-
M  
103 Gully of the Winds I 8
  Castell y Gwynt
105 Castell y Gwynt
-
summit 411
106 Hard Frost D  
107 Crab Slab VD 1
108 Lila's Chocolate Feast III 4 * 5
109 Frost's Climb D * 2
110 East Face of the Gribin
-
VD  
111 False Route
-
S  
112 Idolent
-
HS  
113 Col Gully
-
I 36

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