Climbs 97
Rocktype Rhyolite
Altitude 994m a.s.l
Faces N

Y Gribin in the rain - Why would you want to be anywhere else? © Migsy

Crag features

Clean, rough rock of excellent quality. Good selection of middle grade routes in a mountain setting. Mainly multi-pitch routes to 125 metres.

Approach notes

From beside Llyn Bochlwyd, after the steep approacg to the Cwm, the cliff can be seen amongst the high surrounding ridges. Avoid the steep screes below the cliff by making use ofthe track to Bwlch Tryfan and cutting across the hillside.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


North Wales Climbs

North Wales Climbs covers the best climbing from the whole of this huge and varied area. The book is modelled on the very popular West Country Climbs which set a new standard for selected climb guidebooks back in 2010. It contains all the routes from the 2010 publication North Wales Classics and many more routes and areas, with expanded descriptions and much bigger photo-topos. The book covers all the major mountain crags from Llanberis Pass, to Cloggy; and from Ogwen to the Carneddau. It also includes the Llanberis Slate quarries, Tremadog, the Moelwyns, the Gwynant Valley, Mid-Wales, Gogarth and the North Coast Limestone.
More info

North Wales Classics

A significant addition to the Rockfax stable; North Wales Classics is a pocket-sized guide packs in hundreds of superb routes throughout the mountains of Snowdonia. From Tremadog to Tryfan, and everywhere in between, the book covers mid-grade routes on the best crags and features top-notch photo-topos and inspirational action shots taking you where you want to go.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Ogwen (2010)
North Wales Rock (2006)
Ogwen and Carneddau (1993)

Out of print:
Penglog buttress ??
Sy Finch - 10/Jan/12
Would like to add Penglog Buttress
Neil Watson - 24/Aug/11
Sorry - meant 620 metres - by the contour lines
glyn28 - 04/Jan/06
Altitude unknown? Is is not 994 metres?
glyn28 - 04/Jan/06
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1Glyder Fach Summit
summit 1102
2Nant BochlwydI/II *5
3The Chasm Face
3 ***128
 Bristly Ridge 
5Bristly Ridge
1 ***981
6Bristly RidgeII 2/3 ***251
 Penglog Buttress 
8Firebird Ridge
VD 1
9Balti Blues
S 4a 4
10Balti Boulevard
VD 5
 East Buttress 
12Square ChimneyS  
13Square Chimney ButtressS 1
14Square Chimney ButtressV 6 *2
15Dancing QueenIV 5 *6
16Honey, HoneyIV 5 * 
17Mama MiaIV 5 * 
18Oblique Buttress DirectVS 4c  
19Oblique ButtressS *12
20Oblique GullyVD 1
21Oblique Gully (winter)V 6 **2
22QuixoteE4 6a **2
23GryngoletHVS 5a  
24Errant RouteS 4a  
25Arch GullyD 1
26Arch Gully (Winter)
V 6 ***10
27Out to Lunch
E3 5c *1
28Slab RouteVD **48
29The Spiral VariantD 8
30Arch ChimneyHS 4b  
31Arch Chimney (Winter)V 6 **2
32Main Gully
1 **81
33Main Gully
III 3/4 *31
34Main Gully Ridge
3 ***68
35Direct RouteVS 4c ***455
36The Winter FinishVD 10
37Gibson's Chimney
VS 4c 17
38Brown's CornerHVS 5b  
39The Tombstone CrackHS 4b * 
40The Left-Hand CrackVS 5a *7
41The Right-Hand CrackHVS 5b *16
42Hodgkin's VariationS *15
E1 5c **7
44Glyder Crack
E6 6b **1
45KayaE7 6b **1
46The SentinelE8 6c * 
47The Watchtower
E3 5c *3
48Lot's WifeVS 4c *84
49Lot's Wife/Left-hand CrackVS 5a **1
50Lot's GrooveHVS 5b ***113
51Chasm RouteVD **172
52Corkscrew CrackS 1
53Chasm CrackVS 4c 3
54Chasm RibS *1
55Senile Saunter
E3 5c **1
56Chasm ChimneyD 6
57Girdle Traverse of East Buttress
HS 4b  
58Lot's ChildVS 4c 1
59Main Gully RidgeM 8
60The Upper SectionIII 1
 Alphabet Slabs 
62AlphaVS 4b *66
63BetaM 26
64GammaS 4a *135
65DeltaD *60
S 5
67East Gully ArĂȘteD 83
68East GullyS 4
 Gable Buttress 
70Close To MeE3 6a *1
71Get CloseHVS 5a **21
E4 6a **3
73The Hollow Men
E2 5c *2
 Hawks Nest Buttress 
75Hawk SlabVD 1
76The Last PretenderE2 5c *2
77Hawk's Nest ArĂȘteVS 4c ***136
78Slim ChanceE1 5c *4
79Hawk's Nest ButtressS 4b *45
80Needle's Eye ClimbVD *13
81Shark Buttress (Shark Pinnacle)3 ***87
82Groove Route
 Little Buttress 
84Back DoorVD  
85Wristy Business
E3 5c *2
86Little ButtressS 1
87Lower Dolmen RibD 1
 Dolmen Buttres 
89Route IID **11
90Route IIV 6 ***1
91Druid RouteS  
92Y Gododdin
HS * 
93Route 1VD  
94Dolmen RidgeM ***321
 West Buttress 
96Central Gully
II/III *24
98Intermitten Gully
99Hyperbolic Slab
100Gully of the WindsI 7
 Castell y Gwynt 
102Castell y Gwynt
summit 62
103Lila's Chocolate FeastIII 4 *1
104Col Gully
I 25

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