Climbs 97
Rocktype Rhyolite
Altitude 994m a.s.l
Faces N

Y Gribin in the rain - Why would you want to be anywhere else? © Migsy

Crag features

Clean, rough rock of excellent quality. Good selection of middle grade routes in a mountain setting. Mainly multi-pitch routes to 125 metres.

Approach notes

From beside Llyn Bochlwyd, after the steep approacg to the Cwm, the cliff can be seen amongst the high surrounding ridges. Avoid the steep screes below the cliff by making use ofthe track to Bwlch Tryfan and cutting across the hillside.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

North Wales Climbs

North Wales Climbs covers the best climbing from the whole of this huge and varied area. The book is modelled on the very popular West Country Climbs which set a new standard for selected climb guidebooks back in 2010. It contains all the routes from the 2010 publication North Wales Classics and many more routes and areas, with expanded descriptions and much bigger photo-topos. The book covers all the major mountain crags from Llanberis Pass, to Cloggy; and from Ogwen to the Carneddau. It also includes the Llanberis Slate quarries, Tremadog, the Moelwyns, the Gwynant Valley, Mid-Wales, Gogarth and the North Coast Limestone.
More info

North Wales Classics

A significant addition to the Rockfax stable; North Wales Classics is a pocket-sized guide packs in hundreds of superb routes throughout the mountains of Snowdonia. From Tremadog to Tryfan, and everywhere in between, the book covers mid-grade routes on the best crags and features top-notch photo-topos and inspirational action shots taking you where you want to go.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Ogwen (2010)
North Wales Rock (2006)
Ogwen and Carneddau (1993)

Out of print:
Penglog buttress ??
Sy Finch - 10/Jan/12
Would like to add Penglog Buttress
Neil Watson - 24/Aug/11
Sorry - meant 620 metres - by the contour lines
glyn28 - 04/Jan/06
Altitude unknown? Is is not 994 metres?
glyn28 - 04/Jan/06
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Glyder Fach Summit
-
summit 1135
2 Nant Bochlwyd I/II * 5
3 The Chasm Face
-
3 *** 130
  Bristly Ridge
5 Bristly Ridge
-
1 *** 1000
6 Bristly Ridge II 2/3 *** 252
  Penglog Buttress
8 Firebird Ridge
-
VD 3
9 Balti Blues
-
S 4a 5
10 Balti Boulevard
-
VD 6
  East Buttress
12 Square Chimney S  
13 Square Chimney Buttress S 1
14 Square Chimney Buttress V 6 * 2
15 Dancing Queen IV 5 * 6
16 Honey, Honey IV 5 *  
17 Mama Mia IV 5 *  
18 Oblique Buttress Direct VS 4c  
19 Oblique Buttress S * 12
20 Oblique Gully VD 1
21 Oblique Gully (winter) V 6 ** 2
22 Quixote E4 6a ** 2
23 Gryngolet HVS 5a  
24 Errant Route S 4a  
25 Arch Gully D 1
26 Arch Gully (Winter)
-
V 6 *** 10
27 Out to Lunch
-
E3 5c * 1
28 Slab Route VD ** 57
29 The Spiral Variant D 8
30 Arch Chimney HS 4b  
31 Arch Chimney (Winter) V 6 ** 2
32 Main Gully
-
1 ** 88
33 Main Gully
-
III 3/4 * 29
34 Main Gully Ridge
-
3 *** 70
35 Direct Route VS 4c *** 485
36 The Winter Finish VD 10
37 Gibson's Chimney
-
VS 4c 19
38 Brown's Corner HVS 5b  
39 The Tombstone Crack HS 4b *  
40 The Left-Hand Crack VS 5a * 8
41 The Right-Hand Crack HVS 5b * 16
42 Hodgkin's Variation S * 15
43 Deviation
-
E1 5c ** 6
44 Glyder Crack
-
E6 6b ** 1
45 Kaya E7 6b ** 1
46 The Sentinel E8 6c *  
47 The Watchtower
-
E3 5c * 5
48 Lot's Wife VS 4c * 86
49 Lot's Wife/Left-hand Crack VS 5a ** 1
50 Lot's Groove HVS 5b *** 119
51 Chasm Route VD ** 180
52 Corkscrew Crack S 1
53 Chasm Crack VS 4c 3
54 Chasm Rib S * 1
55 Senile Saunter
-
E3 5c ** 1
56 Chasm Chimney D 8
57 Girdle Traverse of East Buttress
-
HS 4b  
58 Lot's Child VS 4c 1
59 Main Gully Ridge M 8
60 The Upper Section III 1
  Alphabet Slabs
62 Alpha VS 4b * 73
63 Beta M 29
64 Gamma S 4a * 144
65 Delta D * 66
66 Omega
-
S 5
67 East Gully ArĂȘte D 84
68 East Gully S 5
  Gable Buttress
70 Close To Me E3 6a * 1
71 Get Close HVS 5a ** 23
72 Hyndsight
-
E4 6a ** 3
73 The Hollow Men
-
E2 5c * 2
  Hawks Nest Buttress
75 Hawk Slab VD 1
76 The Last Pretender E2 5c * 2
77 Hawk's Nest ArĂȘte VS 4c *** 147
78 Slim Chance E1 5c * 4
79 Hawk's Nest Buttress S 4b * 36
80 Needle's Eye Climb VD * 11
81 Shark Buttress (Shark Pinnacle) 3 *** 90
82 Groove Route
-
M  
  Little Buttress
84 Back Door VD  
85 Wristy Business
-
E3 5c * 2
86 Little Buttress S 1
87 Lower Dolmen Rib D 1
  Dolmen Buttres
89 Route II D ** 8
90 Route II V 6 *** 1
91 Druid Route S  
92 Y Gododdin
-
HS *  
93 Route 1 VD  
94 Dolmen Ridge M *** 331
  West Buttress
96 Central Gully
-
II/III * 24
97 Sidewalk VD  
98 Intermitten Gully
-
M  
99 Hyperbolic Slab
-
M  
100 Gully of the Winds I 7
  Castell y Gwynt
102 Castell y Gwynt
-
summit 63
103 Lila's Chocolate Feast III 4 * 1
104 Col Gully
-
I 24

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