Climbs 97
Rocktype Rhyolite
Altitude 994m a.s.l
Faces N

Y Gribin in the rain - Why would you want to be anywhere else? © Migsy

Crag features

Clean, rough rock of excellent quality. Good selection of middle grade routes in a mountain setting. Mainly multi-pitch routes to 125 metres.

Approach notes

From beside Llyn Bochlwyd, after the steep approacg to the Cwm, the cliff can be seen amongst the high surrounding ridges. Avoid the steep screes below the cliff by making use ofthe track to Bwlch Tryfan and cutting across the hillside.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


North Wales Climbs

North Wales Climbs covers the best climbing from the whole of this huge and varied area. The book is modelled on the very popular West Country Climbs which set a new standard for selected climb guidebooks back in 2010. It contains all the routes from the 2010 publication North Wales Classics and many more routes and areas, with expanded descriptions and much bigger photo-topos. The book covers all the major mountain crags from Llanberis Pass, to Cloggy; and from Ogwen to the Carneddau. It also includes the Llanberis Slate quarries, Tremadog, the Moelwyns, the Gwynant Valley, Mid-Wales, Gogarth and the North Coast Limestone.
More info

North Wales Classics

A significant addition to the Rockfax stable; North Wales Classics is a pocket-sized guide packs in hundreds of superb routes throughout the mountains of Snowdonia. From Tremadog to Tryfan, and everywhere in between, the book covers mid-grade routes on the best crags and features top-notch photo-topos and inspirational action shots taking you where you want to go.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Ogwen (2010)
North Wales Rock (2006)
Ogwen and Carneddau (1993)

Out of print:
Penglog buttress ??
Sy Finch - 10/Jan/12
Would like to add Penglog Buttress
Neil Watson - 24/Aug/11
Sorry - meant 620 metres - by the contour lines
glyn28 - 04/Jan/06
Altitude unknown? Is is not 994 metres?
glyn28 - 04/Jan/06
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1Glyder Fach Summit
summit 1091
2Nant BochlwydI/II *5
3The Chasm Face
3 ***120
4Shark Buttress
3 ***56
 Bristly Ridge 
6Bristly Ridge
1 ***956
7Bristly RidgeII 2/3 ***250
 Penglog Buttress 
9Firebird Ridge
VD 1
10Balti Blues
S 4a 4
11Balti Boulevard
VD 5
 East Buttress 
13Square ChimneyS  
14Square Chimney ButtressS 1
15Square Chimney ButtressV 6 *2
16Dancing QueenIV 5 *6
17Honey, HoneyIV 5 * 
18Mama MiaIV 5 * 
19Oblique Buttress DirectVS 4c  
20Oblique ButtressS *11
21Oblique GullyVD 1
22Oblique Gully (winter)V 6 **2
23QuixoteE4 6a **2
24GryngoletHVS 5a  
25Errant RouteS 4a  
26Arch GullyD 1
27Arch Gully (Winter)
V 6 ***10
28Out to Lunch
E3 5c *1
29Slab RouteVD **48
30The Spiral VariantD 8
31Arch ChimneyHS 4b  
32Arch Chimney (Winter)V 6 **2
33Main Gully
1 **78
34Main Gully
III 3/4 *31
35Main Gully Ridge
3 ***68
36Direct RouteVS 4c ***450
37The Winter FinishVD 10
38Gibson's Chimney
VS 4c 16
39Brown's CornerHVS 5b  
40The Tombstone CrackHS 4b * 
41The Left-Hand CrackVS 5a *7
42The Right-Hand CrackHVS 5b *15
43Hodgkin's VariationS *15
E1 5c **6
45Glyder Crack
E6 6b **1
46KayaE7 6b **1
47The SentinelE8 6c * 
48The Watchtower
E3 5c *3
49Lot's WifeVS 4c *84
50Lot's Wife/Left-hand CrackVS 5a **1
51Lot's GrooveHVS 5b ***113
52Chasm RouteVD **165
53Corkscrew CrackS 1
54Chasm CrackVS 4c 3
55Chasm RibS *1
56Senile Saunter
E3 5c **1
57Chasm ChimneyD 6
58Girdle Traverse of East Buttress
HS 4b  
59Lot's ChildVS 4c 1
60Main Gully RidgeM 8
61The Upper SectionIII 1
 Alphabet Slabs 
63AlphaVS 4b *64
64BetaM 26
65GammaS 4a *134
66DeltaD *60
S 5
68East Gully ArĂȘteD 79
69East GullyS 4
 Gable Buttress 
71Close To MeE3 6a *1
72Get CloseHVS 5a **16
E4 6a **3
74The Hollow Men
E2 5c *2
 Hawks Nest Buttress 
76Hawk SlabVD 1
77The Last PretenderE2 5c *2
78Hawk's Nest ArĂȘteVS 4c ***128
79Slim ChanceE1 5c *3
80Hawk's Nest ButtressS 4b *45
81Needle's Eye ClimbVD *10
82Shark Pinnacle (Hawks Nest Buttress Scramble)
M 23
83Groove Route
 Little Buttress 
85Back DoorVD  
86Wristy Business
E3 5c *2
87Little ButtressS 1
88Lower Dolmen RibD 1
 Dolmen Buttres 
90Route IID **11
91Route IIV 6 ***1
92Druid RouteS  
93Y Gododdin
HS * 
94Route 1VD  
95Dolmen RidgeM ***310
 West Buttress 
97Central Gully
II/III *24
99Intermitten Gully
100Hyperbolic Slab
101Gully of the WindsI 7
 Castell y Gwynt 
103Castell y Gwynt
summit 61
104Lila's Chocolate FeastIII 4 *1
105Col Gully
I 26

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