UKC

Climbs 105
Rocktype Slate
Altitude 450m a.s.l

Long way above the last bolt © mr mills

Crag features

Five minutes' walk (if that) from the road. Many pleasant slab routes at E2-E4, with sparse bolts (4 bolts in 25m). Also some worrying lower-grade trad routes: rock and finishes may be loose or fragile.

Approach notes

Mind the fence after parking on the roundabout.

Restricted Access

Please avoid damaging fences - use the stiles provided. Historically there were access problems here, partially as a result of liability concerns and also due to damage to fences, but these appear to be resolved at this time.

A large block has fallen off the route Septugenarian in early 2017 making this route very unstable and dangerous - further rock-fall may occur here!

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 15 February to 30 April

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ravens nest directly above the routes Hasta La Vista Baby and Race Against The Pump. All three routes on Jenga Buttress on the Upper Levels are also restricted as they are level with and directly opposite the nest- Bish Bash Bosch, Bosch Stop Quarry, and Jenga.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

North Wales Climbs

North Wales Climbs covers the best climbing from the whole of this huge and varied area. The book is modelled on the very popular West Country Climbs which set a new standard for selected climb guidebooks back in 2010. It contains all the routes from the 2010 publication North Wales Classics and many more routes and areas, with expanded descriptions and much bigger photo-topos. The book covers all the major mountain crags from Llanberis Pass, to Cloggy; and from Ogwen to the Carneddau. It also includes the Llanberis Slate quarries, Tremadog, the Moelwyns, the Gwynant Valley, Mid-Wales, Gogarth and the North Coast Limestone.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Llanberis Slate (2011)
North Wales Rock (2006)
Slate (1992)
The Slate Wiki
The first bolt on Septuagenarian is now missing but you can use a small cam just above this if required.
jeff - 19/May/13
Had a nervous lower-off after seconding Septuagenarian this weekend. Had heard the right-hand lower-off bolt was quite loose, but the left-hand one also wobbled a millimetre or so...
dgb - 14/May/12
Yes this is definitely Biggles Flies Undone to which you refer. It even says in the slate guide that it's been claimed many times, or something to that effect. Besides, there's no way in hell that it's 6a!!! As well as the good peg (not bolt) 1/3rd of the way up, there's plenty of other gear to make this a perfectly safe E1 5b at most.
Tom Last - 26/Feb/10
From: chilli07 Climb: Septuagenarian overhang still has alot of loose rock on it and some sharp bits ... o, and my mates blood!!! the first bolt just past this is loose, didnt have a wrench to fix it so be aware
remus - 12/Jan/10
This crag is Blast Shelter crag, which is described in the guide. The route with the peg (not bolt) is Biggles Flies Undone (E1 5b), and is listed on the Bus Stop Quarry page.
NickD - 03/Nov/08
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  bus stop wall
2 First Stop 5a * 978
3 Septuagenarian 6a 1086
4 mud slide slim/Ferrero Roche HS 4a 284
5 Wizz Bang 6c * 322
  The Upper Level
7 The Big Easy 4a 291
8 Jagged Face 4a * 314
9 Finatic 6c 38
10 Comfort Zone 5a * 395
11 Bish Bash Bosch 6a+ * 222
12 Bosch Stop Quarry 6a+ * 231
13 Jenga 5a ** 236
  Equinox Wall
15 Guillotine HVS 4c * 93
16 Wusty Woof E1 5c 24
17 Fool's Gold E1 5c ** 1898
18 1000 Tons of Chicken Shit E5 6a * 76
19 Scare City E6 6a ** 54
20 Raisin Frumpsnoot 7b+ * 35
21 Forsinain Motspur 7c ** 41
22 Forsinain Motspur Direct 7c+ ** 3
23 Forsinain Motspur Superdirect 8a ** 2
24 Calum's Route * 8a+  
25 Beltane 7b ** 139
26 Solstice HVS 5a ** 1668
27 Solstice Direct E2 5c 114
28 Equinox VS 4c ** 1956
29 Equinox Direct E1 5a * 5
30 Sterling Silver E2 5c ** 367
31 Demolition Derby E1 5a 9
32 Bus Stop traverse R - L f6C+ * 5
33 Bus Stop Traverse basic f5+ 5
34 Bus Stop Traverse Finish f6B+ 2
35 Dwr Dai f6A+ * 1
36 Dwr Dai Lefthand f6A 1
37 Little Arete f6A 1
38 Problem 1 * VE ***  
Climb name Grade
  Macho Wall and Rippled Slab
40 Hasta La Vista Baby
-
E3 6a * 4
41 Race Against the Pump
-
7b ** 4
42 Shoreline 7c+ ** 1
43 Geordie War Cry 7a+ *** 62
44 Mildly Macho E5 6b **  
  the rippled slab
46 Scarlet Runner E4 5c *** 164
47 Scarlet Runner Direct E3 5c * 64
48 (unamed) V 6 1
49 Virgin on the Ridiculous E4 6a * 27
50 Massambula E2 5b ** 431
51 Meltdown E4 6a * 16
52 Walking Out E5 6b * 2
53 Gnat Attack E1 5c ** 1033
54 Blue Horizon S 5
55 Breakdance VS 4a 5
56 Crossville
-
E4 6a 2
  butterfly slab
58 Skittles V3 14
59 The Casual Plan HVS 5b * 10
60 Casual Man E1 5b *** 29
61 Tiny Little Elephants HS 4a ** 23
62 Tiny little elephants (areteless eliminate) V0+ * 4
63 Nose Bleed Section E4 6a ** 15
64 Lepidopterist f7A ** 1
65 A question of sanity f6A+ 1
  the short stuff
67 My Hovercraft is full of Eels 6b+ * 96
68 Mini Bus Stop 5c 141
69 Fridge 6b+ 28
70 Freezer 6b+ 51
  short stuff bouldering
72 Yee-haa f6B+ 1
73 Fridge freezer f6A 1
74 The big one f7A 2
75 The flakes of wrath f4+ 3
76 Too wide for wide boyz f5 1
77 Lay off Prof! f5 * 3
Climb name Grade
78 Crab slab f6C * 1
79 Toblerone f3 1
80 Slot machine f6A * 4
81 Reverso traverso f7A 1
82 Greenstone traverse f6A+ 1
83 Small not tall f3 1
  lone tree hole
85 So This is Living
-
E2 5a  
86 Malice In Wonderland E2 5b 1
87 As The Sun Sets In The West
-
E4 5c  
88 Wond
-
VS 4c 1
  blast shelter crag
90 Brazilian f6A 1
91 Captain flash hard f6A * 1
92 Down and out. f6A+ 1
93 Heraldry f5+ 1
94 Heraldry direct f5 1
95 Not now darling f6A 1
96 Lost chances f6B+ 1
97 Pop to the top f6A 1
98 Don't stop till you've popped f6C 1
99 Layback groove f3 * 1
100 Gladiator f7A ** 1
101 Biggles Flies Undone E1 5b * 247
102 Reclaim Your Mind E3 5c * 1
103 Stand to your Rights
-
VS 4c 8
104 Silent Hammering
-
E2 6a 1
105 The Heather Pull XS 1
  unsorted/don't know where they are?
107 Slap stix V1 ** 14
108 Scul p1 f5+ 1
109 Scul p2 f6A+ 1
110 Scul p3 f6B+ 1
111 Arb * V3 6a * 1
112 Hannibal * f5+ * 1
113 Biggles arete f6C ** 1
114 Biggles Breakout f6B * 1
115 Biggles Breakout Direct f7A+ ** 1
116 Under the Fly f6B+ 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer chrisdavies