Climbs 104
Rocktype Slate
Altitude 450m a.s.l

Long way above the last bolt © mr mills

Crag features

Five minutes' walk (if that) from the road. Many pleasant slab routes at E2-E4, with sparse bolts (4 bolts in 25m). Also some worrying lower-grade trad routes: rock and finishes may be loose or fragile.

Approach notes

Mind the fence after parking on the roundabout.

Access Advice

Please avoid damaging fences - use the stiles provided. Historically there were access problems here, partially as a result of liability concerns and also due to damage to fences, but these appear to be resolved at this time.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


North Wales Climbs

North Wales Climbs covers the best climbing from the whole of this huge and varied area. The book is modelled on the very popular West Country Climbs which set a new standard for selected climb guidebooks back in 2010. It contains all the routes from the 2010 publication North Wales Classics and many more routes and areas, with expanded descriptions and much bigger photo-topos. The book covers all the major mountain crags from Llanberis Pass, to Cloggy; and from Ogwen to the Carneddau. It also includes the Llanberis Slate quarries, Tremadog, the Moelwyns, the Gwynant Valley, Mid-Wales, Gogarth and the North Coast Limestone.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Llanberis Slate (2011)
North Wales Rock (2006)
Slate (1992)
The Slate Wiki
The first bolt on Septuagenarian is now missing but you can use a small cam just above this if required.
jeff - 19/May/13
Had a nervous lower-off after seconding Septuagenarian this weekend. Had heard the right-hand lower-off bolt was quite loose, but the left-hand one also wobbled a millimetre or so...
dgb - 14/May/12
Yes this is definitely Biggles Flies Undone to which you refer. It even says in the slate guide that it's been claimed many times, or something to that effect. Besides, there's no way in hell that it's 6a!!! As well as the good peg (not bolt) 1/3rd of the way up, there's plenty of other gear to make this a perfectly safe E1 5b at most.
Tom Last - 26/Feb/10
From: chilli07 Climb: Septuagenarian overhang still has alot of loose rock on it and some sharp bits ... o, and my mates blood!!! the first bolt just past this is loose, didnt have a wrench to fix it so be aware
remus - 12/Jan/10
This crag is Blast Shelter crag, which is described in the guide. The route with the peg (not bolt) is Biggles Flies Undone (E1 5b), and is listed on the Bus Stop Quarry page.
NickD - 03/Nov/08
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 bus stop wall 
2First Stop5a *881
3Septuagenarian6a 1008
4mud slide slim/Ferrero RocheHS 4a 247
5Whizz Bang6c *311
 Equinox Wall 
7GuillotineHVS 4c *94
8Wusty WoofE1 5c 24
9Fool's GoldE1 5c **1815
101000 Tons of Chicken ShitE5 6a *77
11Scare CityE6 6a **59
12Raisin Frumpsnoot7b+ *37
13Forsinain Motspur7c **39
14Forsinain Motspur Direct7c+ **2
15Forsinain Motspur Superdirect8a **1
16Beltane7b **138
17SolsticeHVS 5a **1531
18Solstice DirectE2 5c 107
19EquinoxVS 4c **1760
20Equinox DirectE1 5a *5
21Sterling SilverE2 5c **354
22Demolition DerbyE1 5a 9
23Bus Stop traverse R - Lf6C+ *5
24Bus Stop Traverse basicf5+ 5
25Bus Stop Traverse Finishf6B+ 2
26Dwr Daif6A+ *1
27Dwr Dai Lefthandf6A 1
28Little Aretef6A 1
 upper level 
30The Big Easy4a 269
31Jagged Face4a *281
32Finatic6c 34
33Jenga5a **205
34Bosch Stop Quarry6a+ *206
35Bish Bash Bosch6a+ *199
36Comfort Zone5a *357
 Macho Wall and Rippled Slab 
38Hasta La Vista Baby
E3 6a *4
39Race Against the Pump
7b **4
40Shoreline7c+ **1
41Geordie War Cry7a+ ***93
42Mildly MachoE5 6b ** 
 the rippled slab 
44Scarlet RunnerE4 5c ***174
45Scarlet Runner DirectE3 5c *63
46(unamed)V 6  
47Virgin on the RidiculousE4 6a *26
48MassambulaE2 5b **431
49MeltdownE4 6a *15
50Walking OutE5 6b *2
51Gnat AttackE1 5c **1037
52Blue HorizonS 5
53BreakdanceVS 4a 5
E4 6a 2
 butterfly slab 
56SkittlesV3 13
57The Casual PlanHVS 5b *8
58Casual ManE1 5b ***26
59Tiny Little ElephantsHS 4a **20
60Tiny little elephants (areteless eliminate)V0+ *3
61Nose Bleed SectionE4 6a **11
62Lepidopteristf7A **1
63A question of sanityf6A+ 1
 the short stuff 
65My Hovercraft is full of Eels6b+ *98
66Mini Bus Stop5c 134
67Fridge6b+ 29
68Freezer6b+ 49
 short stuff bouldering 
70Yee-haaf6B+ 1
71Fridge freezerf6A 1
72The big onef7A 2
73The flakes of wrathf4+ 3
74Too wide for wide boyzf5 1
75Lay off Prof!f5 *3
76Crab slabf6C *1
77Tobleronef3 1
78Slot machinef6A *4
79Reverso traversof7A 1
80Greenstone traversef6A+ 1
81Small not tallf3 1
 lone tree hole 
83So This is Living
E2 5a  
84Malice In WonderlandE2 5b 1
85As The Sun Sets In The West
E4 5c  
VS 4c 1
 blast shelter crag 
88Brazilianf6A 1
89Captain flash hardf6A *1
90Down and out.f6A+ 1
91Heraldryf5+ 1
92Heraldry directf5 1
93Not now darlingf6A 1
94Lost chancesf6B+ 1
95Pop to the topf6A 1
96Don't stop till you've poppedf6C 1
97Layback groovef3 *1
98Gladiatorf7A **1
99Biggles Flies UndoneE1 5b *234
100Reclaim Your MindE3 5c *1
101Stand to your Rights
VS 4c 6
102Silent Hammering
E2 6a 1
103The Heather PullXS 1
 unsorted/don't know where they are? 
105Slap stixV1 **12
106Scul p1f5+ 1
107Scul p2f6A+ 1
108Scul p3f6B+ 1
109Arb *V3 *1
110Hannibal *f5+ *1
111Calum's Route *8a+  
112Biggles aretef6C **1
113Biggles Breakoutf6B *1
114Biggles Breakout Directf7A+ **1
115Under the Flyf6B+ 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer chrisdavies