Climbs 115
Rocktype Slate
Altitude 450m a.s.l

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Long way above the last bolt © mr mills

Crag features

Five minutes' walk (if that) from the road. Many pleasant slab routes at E2-E4, with sparse bolts (4 bolts in 25m). Also some worrying lower-grade trad routes: rock and finishes may be loose or fragile.

Approach notes

Mind the fence after parking on the roundabout. Looks like a recent rock fall has happened to the left of fools gold October 6th 2019

Access Advice

Please avoid damaging fences - use the stiles provided. Historically there were access problems here, partially as a result of liability concerns and also due to damage to fences, but these appear to be resolved at this time.

A large block has fallen off the route Septugenarian in early 2017 making this route very unstable and dangerous - further rock-fall may occur here!

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 15 February to 30 May

Reason: Nesting Birds

For 2018 - the Ravens are nesting late and apear to be succesfully nesting directly above the finish of Gnat Attack with young chickc reported in the nest in early May.  Although not a formally agreed restriction, please avoid climbing Gnat Attack until late May. 

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

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Guidebooks

North Wales Climbs

North Wales Climbs covers the best climbing from the whole of this huge and varied area. The book is modelled on the very popular West Country Climbs which set a new standard for selected climb guidebooks back in 2010. It contains all the routes from the 2010 publication North Wales Classics and many more routes and areas, with expanded descriptions and much bigger photo-topos. The book covers all the major mountain crags from Llanberis Pass, to Cloggy; and from Ogwen to the Carneddau. It also includes the Llanberis Slate quarries, Tremadog, the Moelwyns, the Gwynant Valley, Mid-Wales, Gogarth and the North Coast Limestone.
More info
More Guidebooks:
North Wales Slate (2018)
Llanberis Slate (2011)
North Wales Rock (2006)
Slate (1992)
The Slate Wiki
The first bolt on Septuagenarian is now missing but you can use a small cam just above this if required.
jeff - 19/May/13
Had a nervous lower-off after seconding Septuagenarian this weekend. Had heard the right-hand lower-off bolt was quite loose, but the left-hand one also wobbled a millimetre or so...
dgb - 14/May/12
Yes this is definitely Biggles Flies Undone to which you refer. It even says in the slate guide that it's been claimed many times, or something to that effect. Besides, there's no way in hell that it's 6a!!! As well as the good peg (not bolt) 1/3rd of the way up, there's plenty of other gear to make this a perfectly safe E1 5b at most.
Tom Last - 26/Feb/10
From: chilli07 Climb: Septuagenarian overhang still has alot of loose rock on it and some sharp bits ... o, and my mates blood!!! the first bolt just past this is loose, didnt have a wrench to fix it so be aware
remus - 12/Jan/10
This crag is Blast Shelter crag, which is described in the guide. The route with the peg (not bolt) is Biggles Flies Undone (E1 5b), and is listed on the Bus Stop Quarry page.
NickD - 03/Nov/08
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Wizz Bang to Bosch Stop
2 First Stop 5a * 1208
3 Septuagenarian 6a * 1156
4 mud slide slim/Ferrero Roche HS 4a * 363
5 Wizz Bang 6c * 394
  The Upper Level
7 The Big Easy 4b * 388
8 Jagged Face 4a * 442
9 Finatic 6c * 48
10 Comfort Zone 5a * 530
11 Bish Bash Bosch 6a+ * 300
12 Bosch Stop Quarry 6a+ * 313
13 Jenga 4c * 307
14 Easy Slab VD 1
  Equinox Wall
16 Guillotine HVS 4c 116
17 Wusty Woof E1 5c 28
18 Fool's Gold E1 5c ** 2278
19 1000 Tons of Chicken Shit E5 6a * 85
20 Scare City E6 6a ** 66
21 Raisin Frumpsnoot 7b+ ** 36
22 Forsinain Motspur 7c *** 47
23 Forsinain Motspur Direct 7c+ * 3
24 Forsinain Motspur Superdirect 8a * 3
25 Jól 8a+  
26 Beltane 7b+ ** 168
27 Solstice HVS 5a ** 1979
28 Solstice Direct E2 5c ** 163
29 Equinox VS 4c ** 2400
30 Equinox Direct E1 5a 15
31 Sterling Silver E2 5c 410
32 Demolition Derby E1 5a 9
33 Bus Stop traverse R - L f6C+ * 6
34 Bus Stop Traverse basic f5+ 5
35 Bus Stop Traverse Finish f6B+ 2
36 Dwr Dai f6A+ * 1
37 Dwr Dai Lefthand f6A 1
38 Little Arete f6A 1
39 Problem 1 VE *** 1
40 The Bus Stop Bastard f6A 3
41 Equinox Wall Girdle E6 6b ** 1
  Macho Wall
43 Hasta La Vista Baby E3 6a * 6
Climb name Grade
44 Race Against the Pump 7b ** 4
45 Shoreline 7c+ ** 1
46 Geordie War Cry 7a+ *** 66
47 Mildly Macho E5 6b *  
  Rippled Slab
49 Scarlet Runner E4 5c *** 192
50 Scarlet Runner Direct E3 6a * 72
51 Breakdance VS 4a 5
52 Buzz Stop E3 6a * 1
53 (unamed) V 6 1
54 Virgin on the Ridiculous E4 6a * 34
55 Massambula E2 5b ** 524
56 Meltdown E4 6a * 16
57 Walking Out E5 6b 3
58 Gnat Attack E1 5c ** 1190
59 Drivin' the Karma Bus 6a+ 1
60 Blue Horizon S 7
61 Crossville
-
E4 6a 2
  Hidden Slab
63 Bohemian Slabsody 7a * 2
64 Slabadabadoo 6c *  
  butterfly slab
66 Skittles V3 14
67 The Casual Plan HVS 5b 11
68 Casual Man E1 5b 32
69 Tiny Little Elephants HS 4a 24
70 Tiny little elephants (areteless eliminate) V0+ * 4
71 Nose Bleed Section E4 5c 17
72 Lepidopterist f7A ** 1
73 A question of sanity f6A+ 1
  Short Stuff Wall
75 My Hovercraft is full of Eels 6b * 112
76 Mini Bus Stop 6a 166
77 Fridge 6b+ * 35
78 Freezer 6b+ 61
79 Cooler 6a  
80 Gorillas in a twist 6a  
  short stuff bouldering
82 Yee-haa f6B+ 1
83 Fridge freezer f6A 1
84 The big one f7A 2
85 The flakes of wrath f4+ 3
86 Too wide for wide boyz f5 1
Climb name Grade
87 Lay off Prof! f5 * 3
88 Crab slab f6C * 1
89 Toblerone f3 1
90 Slot machine f6A * 4
91 Reverso traverso f7A 1
92 Greenstone traverse f6A+ 1
93 Small not tall f3 1
  Lone Tree Hole
95 So This is Living E2 5a  
96 Malice In Wonderland E2 5b 1
97 As The Sun Sets In The West E4 5c  
98 Wond VS 4c 1
  Blast Shelter
100 Brazilian f6A 1
101 Captain flash hard f6A * 1
102 Down and out. f6A+ 1
103 Heraldry f5+ 1
104 Heraldry direct f5 1
105 Not now darling f6A 1
106 Lost chances f6B+ 1
107 Pop to the top f6A 1
108 Don't stop till you've popped f6C 1
109 Layback groove f3 * 1
110 Gladiator f7A ** 1
111 Biggles Flies Undone E1 5b * 289
112 Reclaim Your Mind E3 5c 2
113 Stand to your Rights VS 4c 9
114 Silent Hammering
-
E2 6a 1
115 The Heather Pull XS 1
  unsorted/don't know where they are?
117 Slap stix V1 ** 14
118 Scul p1 f5+ 1
119 Scul p2 f6A+ 1
120 Scul p3 f6B+ 1
121 Arb V3 * 1
122 Hannibal f5+ * 3
123 Biggles arete f6C ** 1
124 Biggles Breakout f6B * 1
125 Biggles Breakout Direct f7A+ ** 1
126 Under the Fly f6B+ 1
127 Snap Fizzle Crack f5 2

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