UKC

Climbs 109
Rocktype Slate
Altitude 450m a.s.l

Long way above the last bolt © mr mills

Crag features

Five minutes' walk (if that) from the road. Many pleasant slab routes at E2-E4, with sparse bolts (4 bolts in 25m). Also some worrying lower-grade trad routes: rock and finishes may be loose or fragile.

Approach notes

Mind the fence after parking on the roundabout.

Access Advice

Please avoid damaging fences - use the stiles provided. Historically there were access problems here, partially as a result of liability concerns and also due to damage to fences, but these appear to be resolved at this time.

A large block has fallen off the route Septugenarian in early 2017 making this route very unstable and dangerous - further rock-fall may occur here!

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 15 February to 30 May

Reason: Nesting Birds

For 2018 - the Ravens are nesting late and apear to be succesfully nesting directly above the finish of Gnat Attack with young chickc reported in the nest in early May.  Although not a formally agreed restriction, please avoid climbing Gnat Attack until late May. 

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

North Wales Climbs

North Wales Climbs covers the best climbing from the whole of this huge and varied area. The book is modelled on the very popular West Country Climbs which set a new standard for selected climb guidebooks back in 2010. It contains all the routes from the 2010 publication North Wales Classics and many more routes and areas, with expanded descriptions and much bigger photo-topos. The book covers all the major mountain crags from Llanberis Pass, to Cloggy; and from Ogwen to the Carneddau. It also includes the Llanberis Slate quarries, Tremadog, the Moelwyns, the Gwynant Valley, Mid-Wales, Gogarth and the North Coast Limestone.
More info
More Guidebooks:
North Wales Slate (2018)
Llanberis Slate (2011)
North Wales Rock (2006)
Slate (1992)
The Slate Wiki
The first bolt on Septuagenarian is now missing but you can use a small cam just above this if required.
jeff - 19/May/13
Had a nervous lower-off after seconding Septuagenarian this weekend. Had heard the right-hand lower-off bolt was quite loose, but the left-hand one also wobbled a millimetre or so...
dgb - 14/May/12
Yes this is definitely Biggles Flies Undone to which you refer. It even says in the slate guide that it's been claimed many times, or something to that effect. Besides, there's no way in hell that it's 6a!!! As well as the good peg (not bolt) 1/3rd of the way up, there's plenty of other gear to make this a perfectly safe E1 5b at most.
Tom Last - 26/Feb/10
From: chilli07 Climb: Septuagenarian overhang still has alot of loose rock on it and some sharp bits ... o, and my mates blood!!! the first bolt just past this is loose, didnt have a wrench to fix it so be aware
remus - 12/Jan/10
This crag is Blast Shelter crag, which is described in the guide. The route with the peg (not bolt) is Biggles Flies Undone (E1 5b), and is listed on the Bus Stop Quarry page.
NickD - 03/Nov/08
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Wizz Bang to Bosch Stop
2 First Stop 5a * 1066
3 Septuagenarian 6a 1137
4 mud slide slim/Ferrero Roche HS 4a * 318
5 Wizz Bang 6c * 351
  The Upper Level
7 The Big Easy 4b * 316
8 Jagged Face 4a * 348
9 Finatic 6c * 41
10 Comfort Zone 5a * 434
11 Bish Bash Bosch 6a+ * 245
12 Bosch Stop Quarry 6a+ * 258
13 Jenga 4c * 267
  Equinox Wall
15 Guillotine HVS 4c 97
16 Wusty Woof E1 5c 25
17 Fool's Gold E1 5c ** 2038
18 1000 Tons of Chicken Shit E5 6a * 80
19 Scare City E6 6a ** 57
20 Raisin Frumpsnoot 7b+ ** 35
21 Forsinain Motspur 7c *** 43
22 Forsinain Motspur Direct 7c+ * 3
23 Forsinain Motspur Superdirect 8a * 2
24 Jól 8a+  
25 Beltane 7b+ ** 146
26 Solstice HVS 5a ** 1799
27 Solstice Direct E2 5c ** 127
28 Equinox VS 4c ** 2136
29 Equinox Direct E1 5a 6
30 Sterling Silver E2 5c 383
31 Demolition Derby E1 5a 9
32 Bus Stop traverse R - L f6C+ * 5
33 Bus Stop Traverse basic f5+ 5
34 Bus Stop Traverse Finish f6B+ 2
35 Dwr Dai f6A+ * 1
36 Dwr Dai Lefthand f6A 1
37 Little Arete f6A 1
38 Problem 1 VE *** 1
39 The Bus Stop Bastard * f6A 2
40 Equinox Wall Girdle E6 6b **  
Climb name Grade
  Macho Wall
42 Hasta La Vista Baby E3 6a * 6
43 Race Against the Pump 7b ** 4
44 Shoreline 7c+ ** 1
45 Geordie War Cry 7a+ *** 62
46 Mildly Macho E5 6b *  
  Rippled Slab
48 Scarlet Runner E4 5c *** 172
49 Scarlet Runner Direct E3 6a * 66
50 Breakdance VS 4a 5
51 Buzz Stop E3 6a * 1
52 (unamed) V 6 1
53 Virgin on the Ridiculous E4 6a * 28
54 Massambula E2 5b ** 465
55 Meltdown E4 6a * 16
56 Walking Out E5 6b 2
57 Gnat Attack E1 5c ** 1098
58 Blue Horizon S 5
59 Crossville
-
E4 6a 2
60 Drivin' the Karma Bus * 6a+ ** 1
  butterfly slab
62 Skittles V3 14
63 The Casual Plan HVS 5b 11
64 Casual Man E1 5b 32
65 Tiny Little Elephants HS 4a 24
66 Tiny little elephants (areteless eliminate) V0+ * 4
67 Nose Bleed Section E4 5c 16
68 Lepidopterist f7A ** 1
69 A question of sanity f6A+ 1
  Short Stuff Wall
71 My Hovercraft is full of Eels 6b * 101
72 Mini Bus Stop 6a 151
73 Fridge 6b+ * 29
74 Freezer 6b+ 55
  short stuff bouldering
76 Yee-haa f6B+ 1
77 Fridge freezer f6A 1
78 The big one f7A 2
79 The flakes of wrath f4+ 3
80 Too wide for wide boyz f5 1
Climb name Grade
81 Lay off Prof! f5 * 3
82 Crab slab f6C * 1
83 Toblerone f3 1
84 Slot machine f6A * 4
85 Reverso traverso f7A 1
86 Greenstone traverse f6A+ 1
87 Small not tall f3 1
  Lone Tree Hole
89 So This is Living E2 5a  
90 Malice In Wonderland E2 5b 1
91 As The Sun Sets In The West E4 5c  
92 Wond VS 4c 1
  Blast Shelter
94 Brazilian f6A 1
95 Captain flash hard f6A * 1
96 Down and out. f6A+ 1
97 Heraldry f5+ 1
98 Heraldry direct f5 1
99 Not now darling f6A 1
100 Lost chances f6B+ 1
101 Pop to the top f6A 1
102 Don't stop till you've popped f6C 1
103 Layback groove f3 * 1
104 Gladiator f7A ** 1
105 Biggles Flies Undone E1 5b * 269
106 Reclaim Your Mind E3 5c 1
107 Stand to your Rights VS 4c 8
108 Silent Hammering
-
E2 6a 1
109 The Heather Pull XS 1
  unsorted/don't know where they are?
111 Slap stix V1 ** 14
112 Scul p1 f5+ 1
113 Scul p2 f6A+ 1
114 Scul p3 f6B+ 1
115 Arb * V3 6a * 1
116 Hannibal * f5+ * 3
117 Biggles arete f6C ** 1
118 Biggles Breakout f6B * 1
119 Biggles Breakout Direct f7A+ ** 1
120 Under the Fly f6B+ 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer chrisdavies