Climbs 48
Rocktype Rhyolite
Altitude 700m a.s.l
Faces N

A perfect evening on Carnedd Llewelyn © Nicholas Livesey

Crag features

Remote cliff with tedious approaches from any direction. Long mountaineering type routes. Climbers may wish to consider carrying pegs and hammers - some stances are hard to protect, and in-situ pegs may have rusted away. Difficult route-finding, and descent almost always hard and eventful. North-facing, almost always wet. Not the place for those seeking safe 'sport' climbing.

Routes to 250 metres.

Approach notes

'Easiest', as in least strenuous, approach from Gerlan (SH634665), above Bethesda. A narrow surfaced road leads to the uppermost bridge over Afon Llafar to Ty-slatters and the water treatment works, here is the start of the path. However, getting to this point involves some tricky navigation.

On entering Bethesda from the Ogwen Valley take the first turning on the right (SH626660); this is Braichmelyn. Continue along the road and over a bridge, then go steeply leftwards to a junction. Turn sharply right and continue along a narrow road to aPost Office and chapel; park here.

Walk along the farmland to where the road drops down to a small bridge over Afon Caseg. It then rises back up to reach a fork. Take the right hand path to reach the bridge over Afon Llafar. Cross this and then bear left to reach the water treatment works. A stile immediately right of the cates takes one around the water treatment works to a ruined farm and an ancient trackway leading over an ancient bridge to a stile. Marshy anclosures give access to open moorland and the mouth of the Cwm Llafar valley where a better track is attained. This follows the SW bank of the Afon Llafar to a point Beyond Llech Dhu, where it peters out alltogether. An ill-defined path then leads into the upper cwm. Boulder screes and water-logged ground provide options leading to the final steep incline.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


North Wales Winter

North Wales Winter covers the best and most reliable venues for winter climbing in North Wales including the classic gullies of the Trinity Face and the rarely-formed but absolutely essential ice climbs of Cascade and Central Icefall Direct in the Llanberis Pass. Also covered are the major ice lines of Cwm Idwal and the modern mixed climbs of Clogwyn Du and the huge cliff of The Black Ladders which rivals anything in Scotland and is home to long and committing adventures that give a full and tiring day out. This App version has all you need to find and assess the best routes whenever they are in 'nick'.
More info

North Wales Climbs

North Wales Climbs covers the best climbing from the whole of this huge and varied area. The book is modelled on the very popular West Country Climbs which set a new standard for selected climb guidebooks back in 2010. It contains all the routes from the 2010 publication North Wales Classics and many more routes and areas, with expanded descriptions and much bigger photo-topos. The book covers all the major mountain crags from Llanberis Pass, to Cloggy; and from Ogwen to the Carneddau. It also includes the Llanberis Slate quarries, Tremadog, the Moelwyns, the Gwynant Valley, Mid-Wales, Gogarth and the North Coast Limestone.
More info

North Wales Classics

A significant addition to the Rockfax stable; North Wales Classics is a pocket-sized guide packs in hundreds of superb routes throughout the mountains of Snowdonia. From Tremadog to Tryfan, and everywhere in between, the book covers mid-grade routes on the best crags and features top-notch photo-topos and inspirational action shots taking you where you want to go.
More info
The walk in to this place is something else- or at least it was the way we did it! Crossing the boulder fields towards the East was a test of endurance in itself, possibly harder because of the powder snow alowing you to fall though so easliy. And we crossed similar terrain coming down on the Western end. Phew! Not for the faint hearted!
Ander - 02/Mar/04
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Black Ladders Routes
3 Eastern Ridge M 10
4 Western Gully
S 5
6 Eastern Arete II/III 4
7 Eastern Gully III 3 ** 75
8 Playschool III 3 11
9 Playschool Right Arete Brian Cant Variation IV 4 ** 1
10 Pyramid Gully IV 5 ** 71
11 Jacob's Ladder
V 5 * 1
12 Pyramid Face Direct V 6 **  
13 Pyramid Buttress
IV * 4
14 Central Gully III 5 ** 39
15 The July Crisis V 5 * 4
16 Scimitar Hill V 5 **  
17 Yr Arianrhod VI 6 **  
18 Gallipoli V 5 ** 25
Climb name Grade
19 Hedd Wyn VII 6 *** 3
20 Pagan Daughter VI 6 * 1
21 Tora Bora VIII 8 *** 4
22 Anzac VI 6 *  
23 Passchendale V 5 *** 8
24 Passchendale Direct V 5 ** 9
25 Flanders VII 7 *** 9
26 Flanders Summer LIne VII 8 ** 2
27 Western Gully V 6 *** 57
28 Western Gully Direct Finish V 5 ***  
29 Ypres V 5 ** 4
30 Poppies VI 6 * 1
31 Bird song VI 6 **  
32 Arctic Fox V 5 ** 4
33 The Battle Of The Bulge VII 6 ** 2
34 Cannon Fodder VII 6 ** 1
35 Cannon Rib, VII, 6/7 VII 7 *** 2
36 The Polar Bear
VI 6 **  
Climb name Grade
37 The Somme V 6 *** 15
38 Post War
VI 5 *  
39 Scott Report
VII 7/8 *** 1
40 Sarajevo
VI 6 * 1
41 Trench Warfare VII 6 ***  
42 Forlorn Hope VI 5 * 2
43 Stari Most IV 5 * 2
44 Walking Wounded V 5 *  
45 Icefall Gully Left Hand
IV 4 ** 3
46 Icefall Gully IV 4 * 36
47 ATC
IV 4 * 1
48 Nightfall
49 Swerving The Follow Through
IV 5 * 1
50 The Maginot Line VI 7 ** 1
52 The King f7C+ * 1

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer TonyM