Climbs 50
Rocktype Granite

Faces SW

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Bermuda wall © Jim Crow

Crag features

Mostly single-pitch routes up to 130ft, with some ferociously hard ones. Most of the good routes are short and hard, such as Midnight Express (E1 5b), Devil's Meridian (E2 5c) and Bermuda Wall (E3 5c).

Approach notes

Tidal, accessible three hours either side of low tide.
>From the car park at St Levan Church (SW 381 223) turn L then walk back up the road for a few hundred m to the first houses. Take the footpath leading R towards the coast path. At the junction turn R and walk to the large boulders, and go L down a path to a leaning slab past a through-cave.

The path down to the through cave is very obvious and about 50m long. After that it's less obvious so make sure you start descending the grassy ramp soon, down a 2m chimney to easier scrambling. The approach with the "bad step" across the corner is quite an easy escape at low tide, but maybe not a good descent on a first visit.
Fiend - 11/Jul/15
The guidebook description (and the description on here mention a path). Although the through cave formed by the slab is distinctive, there's not really a path down to it, just a short vegetated slope. There is a smaller path running back left from the main footpath, but you have to ignore it and drop down lower. This has confused several people (including us on our first visit).
bpmclimb - 30/Apr/13
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Bermuda Wall
E3 5c *** 21
2 Devil's Meridian
E2 5c ** 23
3 Midnight Express
E1 5b ** 42
4 Geriatric
S 4a 17
5 Zip
VS 4c 13
6 Seamstress
E2 6a * 2
7 Redfish
HVS 5a 6
8 Phenocryst
HVS 5a 13
9 The Minstrel
D 4
10 Geriatric
S 4a 2
11 Sea Pink Slab
VD 6
12 Magaphone Chimney
S 4a  
Climb name Grade
13 Gentleman's Relish
S 4a 2
14 marconi crack
D 7
15 permanendo
HS 4a 2
16 megaphone chimney
S 4a 3
17 falling apart at the seams
HS 4b 1
18 devils meridian
E2 5c ** 3
19 panos
HS 4b 4
20 Layaway S 4a 3
21 Bandwagon E1 5b 4
22 Crack-a-goo-goo
E2 5b 2
23 Jamaica E3 6a 2
24 Buttons S 4a * 1
Climb name Grade
25 Macbate E2 5b 1
26 Jack E1 5b 1
27 Smoked Salmon E1 5b 1
28 Lost for Words E1 5b 1
29 Spot the difference * VS 4b 1
30 Video Breaks * E2 5c 1
31 False Illusions * E2 5c 1
32 The other one * E3 6a 1
33 Chicken Run * E5 6b 1
34 The vein strain * E6 6b 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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