Climbs 365
Rocktype Conglomerate
Altitude 1600m a.s.l
Faces all

Amazing. © Matt K Kelley Photography

Crag features

A glorious conglomerate sandstone canyon offering routes of all lengths and difficulties. Variety of feature and hue of rock abound.
The Bastille is the first crag on the left as you enter, right on the road.
Wind Tower and Whale's Tail are just opposite, with lots of classic easy/moderate routes.
The great central cliff is known as the Redgarden Wall.
The West Ridge is to the west of Redgarden.
For Supremacy follow the dirtroad past The Bastille for about half a mile.
The current guide book lists 14 crags and 1500+ routes.

Approach notes

South from Boulder or north from Golden on CO 93, then west on CO 170. Drive through Eldorado Springs, then into Eldorado Canyon State Park. The park is day use only. Entry lis currently $8 per car, or a one year Colorado State Parks pass is available for $70. Closures of various climbs may be in effect from time to time to protect nesting raptors. These closures are posted at the entrance as well as on the park website, http://cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/Parks/eldoradocanyon

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  The Bastille
2 March of Dimes
-
5.10c * 4
3 Werk Supp
-
5.9 ** 7
4 Marie Antoinette
-
5.9  
5 Northcutt Variant 5.11a 6a ** 9
6 Bastille Crack
-
5.8 *** 18
7 Outer Space
-
5.10c 5b *** 6
8 Wide Country 5.11b 6a *** 2
9 X-M 5.10c 5b,5b, *** 3
10 The Northwest Corner 5.11a 6a *** 2
11 Rain
-
5.10d * 1
12 Hair City
-
5.9 ** 6
13 West Face
-
5.11a ** 6
14 West Arete
-
5.8 *  
15 West Side 5.6 *  
16 Blind Faith
-
5.10a * 6
17 Breakfast In Bed
-
5.8 *  
18 Out to Lunge 5.10a 5b **  
19 SUNSET BOULEVARD
-
E3 ** 1
  The Bastille
21 March of Dimes 5.10c 5c * 3
22 Werk Supp 5.9 5a, 5b ** 10
23 Marie Antoinette 5.9 1
24 Northcutt Variation 5.10d 6a ** 4
25 Bastille Crack 5.7 4c *** 37
26 Wide Country 5.11b 6a, 6a *** 8
27 Outer Space 5.10b 5b, 5b *** 10
28 The Northwest Corner
-
5.11a 6a *** 3
29 X-M 5.10b 5b,5b, ** 5
30 Rain 5.10b * 2
31 West Buttress 5.10b 5c ** 13
32 Hair City 5.9 *** 9
33 West Face
-
5.10d 5c * 3
34 West Arete
-
5.8 * 2
35 West Side 5.6 * 1
36 Blind Faith 5.10a *** 6
37 Breakfast In Bed 5.8 *  
38 Out To Lunge 5.9 ** 3
39 Neon Lights 5.11b 1
40 Voodoo
-
5.8  
41 Serengheti Spaghetti
-
5.10b  
42 Nursery Cryme
-
5.10d  
43 Tarzan
-
5.10c  
44 Direct North Face 5.11a *** 1
  The Rotwand
46 Kinnder Rooten 5.9 *  
  Wind Tower
48 Wind Ridge 5.6 6
49 Wind Ridge (direct start)
-
5.8 *** 6
50 Tagger
-
5.10c *** 5
51 Calypso
-
5.6 3
52 Calypso / Reggae Combination
-
5.8 ** 6
53 King's X
-
5.10d ** 2
54 Blackjack
-
5.10c 1
55 Recon
-
5.4 5
56 The Yellow Traverse and Metamorphosis
-
5.9 ** 2
  Southwest Face of Wind Tower
58 Tigger 5.6 ** 1
59 Breezy
-
5.5 * 4
60 Wind Ridge
-
5.6 *** 11
61 Recon 5.5 ** 6
62 Tigger Plus 5.8 ** 1
63 Across The River From Butt Hair 5.8  
64 Tagger 5.10c 5c * 5
65 Calypso
-
5.6 * 15
66 Reggae 5.8 *** 3
67 The Bomb
-
5.3 ** 2
68 West Overhang
-
5.7 * 6
  South Face of Wind Tower
70 Lower Triagonal 5.9 *  
71 Yellow Traverse 5.9 * 2
72 Black Jack 5.9 1
73 Scotch 'N' Soda
-
5.11b 6a * 1
74 Kings X
-
5.10c ** 3
75 Southeast Chimney 5.3 **  
76 The Metamorphosis
-
5.8 ** 2
77 Disguise 5.9 ** 1
78 Left Out 5.8 **  
79 The Uplift 5.10b *  
  Hawk-Eagle Ridge
81 Dead On Arrival 5.11b 6a * 1
82 Cinch Crack 5.12d 6c ** 1
83 Tombstone 5.11a 5c * 2
84 Rush Buick 5.6 * 1
85 Self - Abuse 5.9 * 1
86 Roof's Way 5.10b ** 1
87 Stay Hungry
-
5.10b  
88 Devo
-
5.8  
89 Crystal Graze
-
5.8  
90 Howard Placebo
-
5.6  
91 Siberian Khatru
-
5.8  
92 Peter's Out 5.5  
  The Whale's Tale
94 East Face 5.1 * 1
95 Jack The Ripper 5.9 * 2
96 Spoof 5.9 * 2
97 Dihedral Two 5.8  
98 Dirty Sam 5.8  
99 West Dihedral
-
5.4 2
100 West Face, Left 5.2 ** 2
101 West Face, Right 5.3 **  
102 Clementine 5.2 *  
103 Kid's Climb 5.8 *  
104 Buffoon 5.10b  
  Red Garden Wall
106 Rewritten 5.7 *** 3
107 Over the shoulder stuff
-
5.10c * 2
108 The Yellow Spur 5.9 *** 22
109 C'est La Vie
-
5.9 ** 6
110 Bolting For Glory
-
5.10a ** 2
111 Touch And Go
-
5.9 ** 9
112 Ruper
-
5.8 *** 3
113 Green Spur
-
5.9 *** 5
114 Green Slab Direct
-
5.9 ** 3
115 Blackwalk
-
5.10c ** 4
116 Back in Black
-
5.11c *** 1
117 Pansee Savage
-
5.11b ** 1
118 Backtalk
-
5.10c ** 2
119 The Naked Edge
-
5.11b *** 6
120 Psycho
-
5.12c *** 1
121 Wasabe
-
5.12c ** 2
122 Evangeline
-
5.11c *** 3
123 T2
-
5.10d *** 5
124 West Face, Right 5.3 1
125 C'est La Mort
-
5.9 ** 3
126 Grandmother's Challenge 5.10c 5b ** 6
127 Rewritten
-
5.7 * 7
128 The Great Zot
-
5.7 * 3
129 Swanson Arete 5.5 ** 2
130 Icarus 5.6 ** 1
131 Washington Irving 5.6 * 3
132 Morning Thunder 5.9 * 2
133 Touch 'N' Go 5.9 5b *** 7
134 Anthill Direct
-
5.8 *** 8
135 Anthill Direct variations 5.10a 2
136 The Naked Edge 5.11b 5c,6a *** 12
137 Alice In Bucketland
-
5.8 ** 2
138 Upper Ruper
-
5.8 *** 2
139 Ruper
-
5.8 *** 4
140 The Bulge 5.7 ** 6
141 East Overhang 5.11b  
142 Balance of Terror 5.9 1
143 Genuine Risk
-
5.11a  
144 The Whittle Wall 5.7 **  
145 Shades of Gray
-
5.9  
146 Dessert 5.8 **  
147 Backtalk 5.10c 5c ** 1
148 Black Walk 5.10c 5c ** 2
149 A Breed Apart
-
5.11b 6a  
150 Night 5.10b *  
151 Tonight
-
5.9  
152 Pseudo Sidetrack 5.4 *** 2
153 The Anthill 5.5 ** 1
154 Whistle Stop
-
5.7 * 1
155 The Flakes
-
5.7 1
156 C'Est La Morte 5.9 5a * 3
157 C'Est La Vie 5.11b 6a/b ** 9
158 Desdichado 5.13c 6c **  
159 Le Boomerang 5.11c 6a ** 3
160 Genesis 5.12c 6c *** 1
161 Genesis 1974 version 5.11a 6a *** 6
162 Leviticus
-
5.12c 6b,  
163 Book of Numbers
-
5.13b *  
164 Redguard Route 5.7 ** 4
165 Redguard Route variations 5.9 1
166 Variation To The Lower Meadow 5.6 **  
167 Centaur
-
5.12d 6c *  
168 Diving Board 5.10d 5c ** 1
169 Bolting For Glory 6a+ * 1
170 Neurasthenia 5.11a 6a  
171 The Old Bad Aid Crack 5.10b * 1
172 Young, Good, Free Face 5.10d  
173 T-2 5.10c 5c *** 6
174 Fools Burn 5.10b  
175 King Tut
-
5.9  
176 Jules Verne 5.11a 6a,6a *** 4
177 Lene's Dream 5.11b * 1
178 The Clever Lever
-
5.12a 1
179 Private Idaho
-
5.12a 1
180 Guokatron
-
5.12c  
181 Kloeberdanz
-
5.11a * 4
182 Guenese
-
5.11c 6a ** 6
183 Fire and Ice
-
5.12a 6b ** 1
184 Psycho 5.12d **  
185 Downpresser Man 5.12b 6b * 1
186 Wasabe 5.12c 6b * 1
187 Evangeline 5.11b 6a * 4
188 Temporary Like Achilles 5.10b 5b ** 6
189 Scary Canary 5.12b * 1
190 Dangerous Aquaintances 5.11d  
191 Wisdom 5.11d ** 2
192 Le Toit
-
5.11b ** 2
193 True Confessions 5.10b  
194 Rosy Crucifixion 5.10c 5b *** 11
195 Wild Kingdom
-
5.11a ** 2
196 Predator
-
5.12b **  
197 Deception Passed 5.9  
198 Rover 5.11b *  
199 Grand Giraffe
-
5.9 *** 2
200 Art's Spar
-
5.10b * 2
201 Superslab 5.10c 5c,5c *** 9
202 Doub-Griffith Route 5.11c **  
203 Electric Aunt Jemima 5.10c  
204 Breakfast of Champions
-
5.10c 4
205 Captain Crunch
-
5.12d 6c  
206 The Slimy Spoon
-
5.8 *  
207 Velvet Hammer
-
5.9  
208 The West Face Of The Lower Ramp
-
5.1 * 1
209 Direct Start to Superslab 5.12c *  
210 Blow-Hard
-
5.9  
211 Vertigo Direct (Mr Olympia) 5.8 * 1
212 Mickey Mouse Die-Rect
-
5.11b 1
213 Vertigo 5.11b *** 6
214 Vertigo Direct Finish 5.11b 6a *** 4
215 Mickey Mouse Nail-Up
-
5.9 * 1
216 In Between 5.10b  
217 Pigeon Crack 5.8 * 1
218 Psychosis 5.10b ** 1
219 Neurosis
-
5.10b 1
220 Love Minus Zero
-
5.11c * 1
221 Le Void
-
5.11b 1
222 Avoid 5.8 *  
223 The Serpent
-
5.10c * 1
224 Upper Grand Giraffe
-
5.6 ** 1
225 The Italian Arete 5.9 **  
226 Chockstone Chimney
-
5.6 *  
227 Body Tremors 5.7 **  
228 Mellow_Yellow
-
5.12a *** 2
229 E.L. 100 5.7 **  
230 Exit Stage Left 5.3 * 1
231 The Dirty Deed
-
5.4 * 1
232 Green Spur 5.9 ** 6
233 Darkness Til Dawn 5.10a ** 5
234 Green Slab Direct
-
5.9 **  
235 The Colour of Pomegranates
-
5.12c  
236 Silver Raven
-
5.11c *  
237 The Grand Course 5.10a ** 2
238 Disappearing Act 5.11a 5c,6a **  
239 Lost In Space 5.7 * 1
240 Roof Wall
-
5.9 *  
241 Northumberland Crack 5.8 *  
  West Ridge
243 Pony Express 5.11a 6a ** 2
244 Mescaline
-
5.8 1
245 Dandi- Line
-
5.7  
246 Long John Wall 5.8 ** 2
247 Break On Thru 5.10c 5c *  
248 Sister Morphine
-
5.9 * 2
249 Sooberb 5.10c *  
250 Chianti
-
5.8 *  
251 The Mail Ridge 5.9 * 1
252 Handcracker 5.10a 1
253 Handcracker Direct
-
5.10d * 1
254 Dead Letter Department 5.8 * 1
255 Drug Abuse
-
5.9 1
256 Iron Horse
-
5.11a * 1
257 Zip Code 5.11b * 1
258 Air Mail 5.9 1
259 Cold Turkey 5.9 *  
260 Working Class Hero
-
5.9  
261 Highway 61
-
5.9  
262 Positively Fourth Street 5.9 5b *  
263 Lunar Lander
-
5.8  
264 Doctor Michael Solar 5.7  
265 Inverted V
-
5.8  
266 Pins And Needles
-
5.10d  
267 Crazy Fingers
-
5.12a *  
268 Foxtrot
-
5.11d *  
269 Parallels
-
5.11c *  
270 Lady Fingers
-
5.7  
271 River of Darkness
-
5.7  
272 White Lightning 5.10a 1
273 Terminal Velocity
-
5.11a 5c ** 1
274 Duh Dihedral 5.6 * 1
275 Fine Line
-
5.9 1
276 Pool of Blood 5.9 *  
277 The Formula
-
5.11d 6a * 1
278 Kashmir
-
5.11d  
279 Hang Ten
-
5.8  
280 Whiplash
-
5.10b  
281 Triptych
-
5.10c  
282 Tanqueray
-
5.11b  
283 Kubla Khan
-
5.11b  
284 Xanadu 5.9 2
285 Parlez Vous Hangdog
-
5.12b  
286 Purple Haze 5.9 * 1
287 Joke Crack
-
5.11b  
288 Chockstone 5.10b * 2
289 Knight's Move 5.7 * 1
290 Jericho 5.11b  
291 Fading Light
-
5.9  
292 Muscular Dystrophy 5.10b 1
293 Bushwack Crack 5.8 1
294 Sirens of Titan 5.9 *  
295 White lightning
-
5.10a ** 1
296 Laughing at the moon
-
5.10c *** 1
297 Prince Of Darkness
-
5.11a ** 1
298 Waterline 5.11b  
299 Roadside Attraction 5.10b 1
300 First Unknown
-
5.9  
301 Flyback
-
5.9  
302 Blues Power 5.12b 1
303 Blind Mouse
-
5.8  
304 Wing Shot 5.11b 1
305 Allosaur 5.9 5b * 3
306 The Initial Route 5.8 *  
307 Super Scooper 5.9 *  
308 Crow's Landing 5.10b  
309 Verschneidung Dihedral 5.6 * 3
310 Clear A Sill 5.9 *  
311 The White Rabbit
-
5.9  
312 Cruisin' For Burgers 5.10b 5c * 2
313 Cut The Cheese 5.9 **  
314 The Unsaid 5.9 *  
315 Next To Nearly 5.10a 5c  
316 Sunshine Wall
-
5.8  
317 Weevil's Walk 5.10b *  
318 Kloof
-
5.11b 1
319 Sequential
-
5.12a * 1
320 Ignominity 5.9 * 1
321 Court Jester
-
5.10b  
322 The Human Factor
-
5.11d  
323 Quiet Desperation
-
5.11c  
324 Side Wall 5.11a * 1
325 False Prophet
-
5.11d  
326 Practise Climb 101 5.10d 5c * 1
327 Bloke On The Side
-
5.9 1
328 Chick On The Side 5.9 * 1
329 Hyperspace Roundup
-
5.12d  
  Shirt Tail Peak/Potato Chip
331 Gambit 5.8 ** 3
332 The Mountaineers' Route 5.5 * 1
333 Tiger balm Arete
-
5.11b **  
334 The Potato Chip M 1
335 Jabberwalk 5.8  
336 Moriarty's Revenge 5.10a *  
337 The Tail 5.9 *  
338 Missing Link
-
5.11a  
339 Mrs Clean Get's Down
-
5.11b 6a  
340 Cro Magnum
-
5.10a  
  Rincon Wall
342 Center crack 5.11a pg *** 1
343 Five Ten Crack 5.10a pg *** 3
344 Five eight crack 5.8 pg13 ** 2
345 Over The Hill
-
5.10b *** 4
346 Rinodina
-
5.9 *  
347 Rincon
-
5.11a 6a *** 5
348 Rincon pitch 1 variant 5.10b 5b * 1
349 Mind Over Matter
-
5.11b 6a *  
350 Thunderbolt/Raccoon Soup
-
5.11d 6a * 1
351 Concentric 5.10b  
352 Bat's Ass Dihedral
-
5.11b 6a 1
353 What's My Line
-
5.11c *  
354 Ventura Highway
-
5.10d 5c+  
355 Kangaroo Tail 5.8  
356 Centre Route 5.11a 6a ** 2
357 Wendego 5.12a 6a/b ** 1
358 Climb Of The Century 5.11c 6a ** 2
359 Surf's Up
-
5.12d *  
360 Trident
-
5.10b  
361 Windy
-
5.10b * 1
362 Aerospace 5.11b 6a * 3
363 Aerial Book 5.11a 5c,6a ** 3
364 Over The Hill 5.10c 5b,5c ** 6
365 Over And Out
-
5.7 * 3
366 Emerald City 5.8 * 3
367 Next - Inside - Corner 5.5  
  Cadillac Crag
369 Gonzo
-
5.8 ** 2
370 Never Cry Wolf (aka Heartbreaker) 5.11b ** 1
371 V3 5.9 *** 2
372 Twistoflex
-
5.8 ** 1
  South Boulder Peak
  Quartzite
375 Supremacy Crack 5.11b *** 2
  Peanuts
377 Sunrider
-
5.11d *** 2
378 Forbidden Planet
-
5.11b *** 2
  Mickey Mouse Wall
380 Red Dihedral 5.12d *** 1
381 The Green Dihedral
-
5.7 *** 2

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