Climbs 365
Rocktype Conglomerate
Altitude 1900m a.s.l
Faces all

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Amazing. © Matt K Kelley Photography

Crag features

As one of the world's finest and most famous climbing areas, Eldorado Canyon needs little introduction. It consists of steep, beautiful conglomerate sandstone walls of up to 700 feet high, in brilliant shades of gold and red. The rock quality is reminiscent of granite rather than the soft sandstone found throughout much of Utah and Arizona. 

Climbing in Eldorado Canyon can be odd and it requires some getting used to. It is primarily a traditional area, yet there is relatively little crack climbing. 

Eldo can be a very confusing place and it is helpful to at least look at a guidebook, such as Steve Levin's newest guidebook, Eldorado Canyon, A Climber's Guidebook, or Richard Rossiter's out of print, comprehensive Rock Climbing Eldorado Canyon. Fred Knapp's Classic Boulder Climbs is about a third the cost, and still has most of the best routes as well as other great routes around Boulder. 

Approach notes

South from Boulder or north from Golden on CO 93, then west on CO 170. Drive through Eldorado Springs, then into Eldorado Canyon State Park. The park is day use only. Entry lis currently $8 per car, or a one year Colorado State Parks pass is available for $70. Closures of various climbs may be in effect from time to time to protect nesting raptors. These closures are posted at the entrance as well as on the park website.

Why is The Bastille duplicated?
jon - 29/Apr/18
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  The Bastille
2 March of Dimes 5.10c 5c * 8
3 Werk Supp 5.9 5a, 5b ** 22
4 Marie Antoinette 5.9  
5 Northcutt Variation 5.10d 6a ** 19
6 Bastille Crack 5.7 4c *** 71
7 Wide Country 5.11b 6a, 6a *** 17
8 Outer Space 5.10b 5b, 5b *** 24
9 The Northwest Corner
-
5.11a 6a *** 11
10 X-M 5.10b 5b,5b, ** 10
11 Rain 5.10b * 10
12 West Buttress 5.10b 5c ** 21
13 Hair City 5.9 *** 20
14 West Face
-
5.10d 5c * 11
15 West Arete
-
5.8 * 3
16 West Side 5.6 *  
17 Blind Faith 5.10a *** 15
18 Breakfast In Bed 5.8 * 4
19 Out To Lunge 5.9 ** 4
20 Sunset Boulevard
-
E3 ** 3
21 Neon Lights 5.11b 1
22 Voodoo
-
5.8  
23 Serengheti Spaghetti
-
5.10b  
24 Nursery Cryme
-
5.10d  
25 Tarzan
-
5.10c  
26 Direct North Face 5.11a *** 3
27 Northwest Corner
-
5.11a 2
  The Rotwand
29 Kinnder Rooten 5.9 *  
  Wind Tower
31 Wind Ridge 5.6 20
32 Wind Ridge (direct start)
-
5.8 *** 9
33 Tagger
-
5.10c *** 5
34 Calypso
-
5.6 4
35 Calypso / Reggae Combination
-
5.8 ** 8
36 King's X
-
5.10d ** 2
37 Blackjack
-
5.10c 1
38 Recon
-
5.4 4
39 The Yellow Traverse and Metamorphosis
-
5.9 ** 1
  Southwest Face of Wind Tower
41 Tigger 5.6 ** 5
42 Breezy
-
5.5 * 8
43 Recon 5.5 ** 7
44 Tigger Plus 5.8 ** 1
45 Across The River From Butt Hair 5.8  
46 Tagger 5.10c 5c * 5
47 Calypso
-
5.6 * 19
48 Boulder Direct 5.5 *** 3
49 Reggae 5.8 *** 5
50 The Bomb
-
5.3 ** 5
51 West Overhang
-
5.7 * 9
  South Face of Wind Tower
53 Lower Triagonal 5.9 *  
54 Yellow Traverse 5.9 * 1
55 Black Jack 5.9  
56 Scotch 'N' Soda
-
5.11b 6a *  
57 Kings X
-
5.10c ** 2
58 Southeast Chimney 5.3 **  
59 The Metamorphosis
-
5.8 ** 1
60 Disguise 5.9 **  
61 Left Out 5.8 **  
62 The Uplift 5.10b *  
  Hawk-Eagle Ridge
64 Dead On Arrival 5.11b 6a *  
65 Cinch Crack 5.12d 6c **  
66 Tombstone 5.11a 5c * 1
67 Rush Buick 5.6 *  
68 Self - Abuse 5.9 *  
69 Roof's Way 5.10b **  
70 Stay Hungry
-
5.10b  
71 Devo
-
5.8  
72 Crystal Graze
-
5.8  
73 Howard Placebo
-
5.6  
74 Siberian Khatru
-
5.8  
75 Peter's Out 5.5  
  The Whale's Tale
77 East Face 5.1 * 2
78 Jack The Ripper 5.9 * 2
79 Spoof 5.9 * 1
80 Dihedral Two 5.8  
81 Dirty Sam 5.8  
82 West Dihedral
-
5.4 2
83 West Face, Left 5.2 ** 1
84 West Face, Right 5.3 ** 1
85 Clementine 5.2 *  
86 Kid's Climb 5.8 *  
87 Buffoon 5.10b  
  Redgarden Wall
89 Rewritten 5.7 *** 18
90 Over the shoulder stuff
-
5.10c * 2
91 The Yellow Spur 5.9 *** 29
92 C'est La Vie
-
5.9 ** 10
93 Bolting For Glory
-
5.10a ** 4
94 Touch And Go
-
5.9 ** 13
95 Ruper
-
5.8 *** 6
96 Green Spur
-
5.9 *** 6
97 Green Slab Direct
-
5.9 ** 3
98 Blackwalk
-
5.10c ** 5
99 Back in Black
-
5.11c *** 2
100 Pansee Savage
-
5.11b ** 4
101 Backtalk
-
5.10c ** 4
102 The Naked Edge
-
5.11b *** 8
103 Psycho
-
5.12c *** 2
104 Wasabe
-
5.12c ** 2
105 Evangeline
-
5.11c *** 4
106 West Face, Right 5.3 1
107 C'est La Mort
-
5.9 ** 3
108 Grandmother's Challenge 5.10c 5b ** 8
109 Rebuffat's Arete 5.7 *** 3
110 The Great Zot 5.8 * 6
111 Swanson Arete 5.5 ** 2
112 Icarus 5.6 ** 1
113 Washington Irving 5.6 * 4
114 Morning Thunder 5.9 * 1
115 Touch 'N' Go 5.9 5b *** 9
116 Anthill Direct
-
5.8 *** 11
117 Anthill Direct variations 5.10a 2
118 The Naked Edge 5.11b 5c,6a *** 11
119 Alice In Bucketland
-
5.8 ** 2
120 Upper Ruper
-
5.8 *** 4
121 Ruper
-
5.8 *** 5
122 The Bulge 5.7 ** 7
123 East Overhang 5.11b  
124 Balance of Terror 5.9 1
125 Genuine Risk
-
5.11a  
Climb name Grade
126 The Whittle Wall 5.7 ** 1
127 Shades of Gray
-
5.9  
128 Dessert 5.8 **  
129 Backtalk 5.10c 5c ** 2
130 Black Walk 5.10c 5c ** 1
131 A Breed Apart
-
5.11b 6a  
132 Night 5.10b *  
133 Tonight
-
5.9  
134 Pseudo Sidetrack 5.4 *** 2
135 The Anthill 5.5 **  
136 Whistle Stop
-
5.7 * 1
137 The Flakes
-
5.7 1
138 C'Est La Morte 5.9 5a * 3
139 C'Est La Vie 5.11b 6a/b ** 15
140 Desdichado 5.13c 6c **  
141 Le Boomerang 5.11c 6a ** 2
142 Genesis 5.12c 6c ***  
143 Genesis 1974 version 5.11a 6a *** 7
144 Leviticus
-
5.12c 6b,  
145 Book of Numbers
-
5.13b *  
146 Redguard Route 5.7 ** 3
147 Redguard Route variations 5.9  
148 Variation To The Lower Meadow 5.6 **  
149 Centaur
-
5.12d 6c *  
150 Diving Board 5.10d 5c **  
151 Bolting For Glory 6a+ * 3
152 Neurasthenia 5.11a 6a  
153 The Old Bad Aid Crack 5.10b *  
154 Young, Good, Free Face 5.10d  
155 T2 5.11a *** 13
156 Fools Burn 5.10b  
157 King Tut
-
5.9  
158 Jules Verne 5.11a 6a,6a *** 4
159 Lene's Dream 5.11b *  
160 The Clever Lever
-
5.12a  
161 Private Idaho
-
5.12a  
162 Guokatron
-
5.12c  
163 Kloeberdanz
-
5.11a * 3
164 Guenese
-
5.11c 6a ** 6
165 Fire and Ice
-
5.12a 6b **  
166 Psycho 5.12d **  
167 Downpresser Man 5.12b 6b * 1
168 Wasabe 5.12c 6b *  
169 Evangeline 5.11b 6a * 3
170 Temporary Like Achilles 5.10b 5b ** 7
171 Scary Canary 5.12b * 1
172 Dangerous Aquaintances 5.11d  
173 Wisdom 5.11d ** 1
174 Le Toit
-
5.11b ** 2
175 True Confessions 5.10b  
176 Rosy Crucifixion 5.10c 5b *** 17
177 Wild Kingdom
-
5.11a ** 1
178 Predator
-
5.12b **  
179 Deception Passed 5.9  
180 Rover 5.11b *  
181 Grand Giraffe
-
5.9 *** 4
182 Art's Spar
-
5.10b * 2
183 Superslab 5.10c 5c,5c *** 10
184 Doub-Griffith Route 5.11c ** 1
185 Electric Aunt Jemima 5.10c  
186 Breakfast of Champions
-
5.10c 3
187 Captain Crunch
-
5.12d 6c  
188 The Slimy Spoon
-
5.8 *  
189 Velvet Hammer
-
5.9  
190 The West Face Of The Lower Ramp
-
5.1 *  
191 Direct Start to Superslab 5.12c *  
192 Blow-Hard
-
5.9  
193 Vertigo Direct (Mr Olympia) 5.8 * 1
194 Mickey Mouse Die-Rect
-
5.11b  
195 Vertigo 5.11b *** 7
196 Vertigo Direct Finish 5.11b 6a *** 5
197 Mickey Mouse Nail-Up
-
5.9 * 1
198 In Between 5.10b  
199 Pigeon Crack 5.8 *  
200 Psychosis 5.10b **  
201 Neurosis
-
5.10b  
202 Love Minus Zero
-
5.11c *  
203 Le Void
-
5.11b  
204 Avoid 5.8 *  
205 The Serpent
-
5.10c *  
206 Upper Grand Giraffe
-
5.6 ** 1
207 The Italian Arete 5.9 ** 2
208 Chockstone Chimney
-
5.6 *  
209 Body Tremors 5.7 **  
210 Mellow_Yellow
-
5.12a *** 1
211 E.L. 100 5.7 **  
212 Exit Stage Left 5.3 *  
213 The Dirty Deed
-
5.4 * 1
214 Green Spur 5.9 ** 8
215 Darkness Til Dawn 5.10a ** 6
216 Green Slab Direct
-
5.9 ** 1
217 The Colour of Pomegranates
-
5.12c  
218 Silver Raven
-
5.11c * 1
219 The Grand Course 5.10a ** 3
220 Disappearing Act 5.11a 5c,6a ** 1
221 Lost In Space 5.7 *  
222 Roof Wall
-
5.9 *  
223 Northumberland Crack 5.8 *  
224 East Side 5.6 * 2
225 Mr Natural 5.8 *** 1
  West Ridge
227 Pony Express 5.11a 6a ** 1
228 Mescaline
-
5.8 2
229 Dandi- Line
-
5.7 1
230 Long John Wall 5.8 ** 3
231 Break On Thru 5.10c 5c * 1
232 Sister Morphine
-
5.9 * 1
233 Sooberb 5.10c * 1
234 Chianti
-
5.8 * 1
235 The Mail Ridge 5.9 *  
236 Handcracker Direct
-
5.10a * 5
237 Dead Letter Department 5.8 *  
238 Drug Abuse
-
5.9  
239 Iron Horse
-
5.11a *  
240 Zip Code 5.11b *  
241 Air Mail 5.9  
242 Cold Turkey 5.9 *  
243 Working Class Hero
-
5.9  
244 Highway 61
-
5.9  
245 Positively Fourth Street 5.9 5b * 2
246 Lunar Lander
-
5.8  
247 Doctor Michael Solar 5.7 1
248 Inverted V
-
5.8  
249 Pins And Needles
-
5.10d  
250 Crazy Fingers
-
5.12a *  
Climb name Grade
251 Foxtrot
-
5.11d *  
252 Parallels
-
5.11c *  
253 Lady Fingers
-
5.7  
254 River of Darkness
-
5.7  
255 White Lightning 5.10a 2
256 Terminal Velocity
-
5.11a 5c **  
257 Duh Dihedral 5.6 * 1
258 Fine Line
-
5.9 1
259 Pool of Blood 5.9 *  
260 The Formula
-
5.11d 6a * 1
261 Kashmir
-
5.11d 1
262 Hang Ten
-
5.8  
263 Whiplash
-
5.10b  
264 Triptych
-
5.10c  
265 Tanqueray
-
5.11b  
266 Kubla Khan
-
5.11b  
267 Xanadu 5.9 5
268 Parlez Vous Hangdog
-
5.12b  
269 Purple Haze 5.9 * 1
270 Joke Crack
-
5.11b  
271 Chockstone 5.10b * 4
272 Knight's Move 5.7 *  
273 Jericho 5.11b  
274 Fading Light
-
5.9  
275 Muscular Dystrophy 5.10b 1
276 Bushwack Crack 5.8  
277 Sirens of Titan 5.9 *  
278 White lightning
-
5.10a ** 3
279 Laughing at the moon
-
5.10c *** 2
280 Prince Of Darkness
-
5.11a ** 3
281 Waterline 5.11b  
282 Roadside Attraction 5.10b 1
283 First Unknown
-
5.9  
284 Flyback
-
5.9  
285 Blues Power 5.12b  
286 Blind Mouse
-
5.8  
287 Wing Shot 5.11b  
288 Allosaur 5.9 5b * 4
289 The Initial Route 5.8 *  
290 Super Scooper 5.9 *  
291 Crow's Landing 5.10b  
292 Verschneidung Dihedral 5.6 * 5
293 Clear A Sill 5.9 *  
294 The White Rabbit
-
5.9  
295 Cruisin' For Burgers 5.10b 5c * 1
296 Cut The Cheese 5.9 **  
297 The Unsaid 5.9 * 3
298 Next To Nearly 5.10a 5c  
299 Sunshine Wall
-
5.8  
300 Weevil's Walk 5.10b *  
301 Kloof
-
5.11b  
302 Sequential
-
5.12a *  
303 Ignominity 5.9 * 1
304 Court Jester
-
5.10b  
305 The Human Factor
-
5.11d  
306 Quiet Desperation
-
5.11c  
307 Side Wall 5.11a *  
308 False Prophet
-
5.11d  
309 Practise Climb 101 5.10d 5c * 1
310 Bloke On The Side
-
5.9 1
311 Chick On The Side 5.9 * 1
312 Hyperspace Roundup
-
5.12d  
  Shirt Tail Peak/Potato Chip
314 Gambit 5.8 ** 4
315 The Mountaineers' Route 5.5 * 1
316 Tiger balm Arete
-
5.11b ** 1
317 The Potato Chip M  
318 Jabberwalk 5.8  
319 Moriarty's Revenge 5.10a *  
320 The Tail 5.9 *  
321 Missing Link
-
5.11a  
322 Mrs Clean Get's Down
-
5.11b 6a  
323 Cro Magnum
-
5.10a  
  Rincon Wall
325 Center crack 5.11a pg *** 2
326 Five Ten Crack 5.10a pg *** 6
327 Five eight crack 5.8 pg13 ** 4
328 Over The Hill
-
5.10b *** 6
329 Rinodina
-
5.9 *  
330 Rincon
-
5.11a 6a *** 5
331 Rincon pitch 1 variant 5.10b 5b * 2
332 Mind Over Matter
-
5.11b 6a *  
333 Thunderbolt/Raccoon Soup
-
5.11d 6a * 1
334 Concentric 5.10b  
335 Bat's Ass Dihedral
-
5.11b 6a  
336 What's My Line
-
5.11c *  
337 Ventura Highway
-
5.10d 5c+  
338 Kangaroo Tail 5.8  
339 Centre Route 5.11a 6a ** 2
340 Wendego 5.12a 6a/b ** 1
341 Climb Of The Century 5.11c 6a ** 3
342 Surf's Up
-
5.12d *  
343 Trident
-
5.10b  
344 Windy
-
5.10b *  
345 Aerospace 5.11b 6a * 2
346 Aerial Book 5.11a 5c,6a ** 2
347 Over The Hill 5.10c 5b,5c ** 6
348 Over And Out
-
5.7 * 3
349 Emerald City 5.8 * 3
350 Next - Inside - Corner 5.5  
  Cadillac Crag
352 Gonzo
-
5.8 ** 1
353 Never Cry Wolf (aka Heartbreaker) 5.11b ** 1
354 V3 5.9 *** 2
355 Twistoflex
-
5.8 ** 1
  South Boulder Peak
  Quartzite
358 Supremacy Crack 5.11b *** 2
  Cartoon Crag
360 Donald Duck
-
5.7  
361 Lazy
-
5.7  
362 Doc
-
5.3 1
363 Sneezy
-
5.5  
364 P.A. Pops Up again
-
5.5  
365 Dopey
-
5.4 1
366 Blind Man's View
-
5.5  
367 Sleepy
-
5.4 1
  Peanuts
369 Sunrider
-
5.11d *** 1
370 Forbidden Planet
-
5.11b *** 1
  Mickey Mouse Wall
372 Red Dihedral 5.12d *** 1
373 The Green Dihedral
-
5.7 *** 1

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