Climbs 83
Rocktype Granite
Altitude Tidal
Faces SW

Tony versus Mexican Pete (VS) © Kafoozalem

Crag features

Far from the madding commercialism of Land's End, if not physically. Some looseness in cracks and chimneys. Mostly single- and multi-pitch routes up to 130ft, grades below E1 but with some good harder ones.

Approach notes

Tidal on Lower Cliff and Helmet Buttress. Non-tidal on Green Face.

>From Land's End, follow the coast path to the SE for 0.75mi along the cliffs to a path leading out on the headland's crest.

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Guidebooks

West Country Climbs

West Country Climbs is a major Rockfax guide to one of the UK’s most celebrated, sunny and diverse climbing regions. The book is fashioned in Rockfax’s award-winning layout and design, and copiously illustrated with action photographs of the climbs and cliffs that reflect the quality and variety of climbing experiences to be had on offer in the UK’s most popular holiday destination - the West Country. This is a selected route and buttress guidebook which covers the best 900 routes from the crags listed below.
More info
Slightly tricky downclimb on the approach to The Lower Cliffon The Trough, just after The Squeeze. May be advisable to protect novice climbers.
Skip - 22/Sep/12
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Sloose Zawn
2 On the Loose
-
S 4a  
3 Loose Feelings
-
HS 4b  
4 Through the Looking-Glass
-
VD  
5 Smear on Sight
-
E4 5c  
6 Step on a Cloud
-
E3 5c  
7 Empty City
-
E1 5b  
8 Eye of the Owl
-
HVS 5a  
9 Star Turn
-
E3 5c  
  Main Area - Longships Ridge
11 Slagroom
-
S 4a 8
12 Loco Parentis
-
E1 5b 7
13 The Harp
-
VS 5a 3
14 Chopper Chimney
-
VD  
  Main Area - The Amphitheatre
16 Little Trapeze
-
VS 5a 3
17 Little Trapeze Right-hand
-
VD  
18 Exit Climb
-
D 2
19 Blood on the Rocks
-
VS 5a 1
20 Halfway House
-
HS 4b 1
21 Full House
-
S 4a  
22 Lesser Known Tunisians
-
S 4b 1
23 Big Ned
-
VD 1
24 One Inch Rock
-
S 4a 13
25 Whisky
-
VD  
26 Mr Married Goes for a Hike
-
HVS 5a  
27 Tower Direct
-
HS 4b 2
28 Twist Again Like Moira Did Last Summer
-
HVS 5a  
  Main Area - The Lower Cliff
30 Economist's Climb VD * 93
31 Racing Line
-
E6 6b  
32 A Pocket Full of Crystals
-
E3 5b 1
33 A Pocket Full of Quartz
-
HVS 4c 3
34 Hiroshima Mon Amour
-
HVS 5b  
35 Little Cracker S 4a 10
36 Nut Route
-
S 4a 60
37 Swiss Route
-
HS 4b 9
38 Towerful
-
VS 4c 3
39 Vietnamerica E1 5b 61
40 Zeke's Route HS 4b ** 146
41 King Crab Crack
-
VS 4c 4
42 Stone Boom E2 5c ** 103
43 Telegraph Road
-
E3 6a * 2
44 Cable Highway
-
E4 6b 1
45 Biceps Wall
-
VS 5a 5
46 Muscle Chimney
-
HS 4b 2
47 Sea Fury HVS 5b * 41
48 Immaculate Arete E4 6a *** 45
49 Immaculate Arete (direct start)
-
E4 6a *** 2
50 New Editions
-
E4 6b 1
51 Cain E4 6a *** 30
52 Nothing Much HVS 5b * 49
53 Friends VS 5a * 50
54 Wrist Climb HVD * 61
55 Bubble Wall
-
E5 6b 5
56 Bubble Wall (direct start)
-
E6 6c  
57 Pop!
-
E7 6c  
58 Rubber Neck
-
E3 5c  
59 Siân
-
VS 4c 8
60 Love Drives Me Crazy
-
VS 4c  
61 Dépêchez-Vous
-
VS 5a  
62 Ruby Nails
-
E3 5c * 6
  Helmet Buttress
64 Veedy
-
VS 4c * 4
65 Helmet Ridge Direct
-
VS 4b * 10
66 Saruman
-
HS 4b 1
67 Gandalf
-
S 4a  
68 Helmet Ridge
-
D 1
  The Green Face Area
70 Gig in the Sky
-
E2 5c * 2
71 Mr Haggis
-
HS 4b 6
72 Ella-phant
-
E1 5b  
73 Who Ya Gonna Call
-
E1 5b  
74 Amigos
-
E4 5c 1
75 The Green Face
-
S 4a * 24
76 Gringo VS 5a 2
77 Mexican Pete
-
VS 4c * 17
78 Bingo
-
E2 5c 1
79 Dago
-
VS 5a 1
80 Mister Fixit
-
HVS 5a  
81 Water-Man
-
S 4a  
82 Sandman
-
E3 5c  
83 Solar Explorer
-
E7 6b  
84 A Job for Life
-
E1 5b  
85 A Question of Time
-
E2 5c  
86 Beelzebub's Boobs
-
E1 5b  
87 Fragile Earth
-
E5 6b  
88 The Economist
-
VD *** 4
89 Granite Gorilla
-
E5 6a **  

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