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UKClimbing Team

Climbs 110
Rocktype Rhyolite
Altitude 892m a.s.l
Faces all

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Marti Hallett and Debbie Roberts on Rib and Slab (HS) at Pillar Rock (from the Lake District Climbs Rockfax). © Mark Glaister

Crag features

Pillar is a mountain in the western part of the English Lake District. Situated between the valleys of Ennerdale to the north and Wasdale to the south, it is the highest point of the Pillar group (some dozen fells clustered round it). At 892m (2,927 feet) it is the eighth-highest mountain in the Lake District. The fell takes its name from Pillar Rock, a prominent feature on the Ennerdale side, regarded as the birthplace of rock climbing in the district.

Pillar Rock is a large complex high mountain crag with a great history of classic routes - needs a reasonable dry spell. Thanatos/Electron (HVS), Tapestry (E4), Grooved Wall (VS), North Climb (S), NW Climb (MVS), Megaton (E1), Goodbye to All That (E1), Rib and Slab (HS), New West (VD), SW (MVS)etc, the list of real classics is endless, without even mentioning any of the 2 star routes.

Approach notes

Two and a half hour walk from Wasdale. Best bet is to mountain bike in from Ennerdale. Yes, it's a long way but the crag is superb and remote, so get to it people!

Once into the cirque, the approach path (from Ennerdale) very vague. Wasted a lot of time on walk in and walk out because of this. Fantastic crag though and well worth the journey!
MikeLell - 15/Sep/13
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Pillar
2 Pillar summit
-
summit 32
  Pillar Rock
4 Pillar Rock summit
-
summit 512
  High Man East Face
6 Far West Jordan Climb
-
VD 5
7 West Jordan Crack
-
VD 4
8 West Jordan Climb
-
D 3
9 Jordan Bastion
-
HS 4b 1
10 Central Jordan Climb
-
D 7
11 East Jordan Climb
-
MVS 4a  
12 East Jordan Wall
-
HS 4b  
13 Slab and Notch Climb M *** 152
14 Pillar Rock by Slab and Notch 3 *** 27
15 Pendlebury Traverse
-
M  
16 The Curtain and Arete
-
D 6
17 The Great Chimney
-
D 1
18 Kipper's Chimney
-
HS 4b *  
  Shamrock
20 Shamrock Buttress
-
VD 1
21 Harlequin Chimneys
-
D 1
22 Photon
-
MVS 4c * 6
23 Eros
-
E2 5b *** 10
24 Positron
-
MVS 4b 1
25 Electron
-
HVS 5a *** 38
26 Pauli Exclusion Principle
-
E3 5c ** 1
27 Vishnu
-
E2 5b 1
28 Thanatos
-
HVS 5b *** 44
29 Shamrock Tower
-
MVS 4b 9
30 Odin
-
HVS 5b 4
31 The Magic Rainbow
-
E1 5b *  
32 Necromancer
-
E1 5a ** 3
33 The Eightfold Way
-
HVS 5a 1
34 The Link
-
HVS 5a  
35 Walker's Gully
-
MVS 4c *** 7
36 Photogenic
-
E1 5b **  
37 Thanatos/Electron HVS 5b ***  
  Low Man North Face
39 pedestal Wall
-
S 4a 1
40 Side Slip
-
VS 4c  
Climb name Grade
41 Over the Hill
-
E1 5b  
42 Soliton
-
HVS 5a  
43 The Black Widow
-
E2 5c  
44 Tapestry E4 6a *** 6
45 Grooved Wall VS 5a ** 62
46 Sheol/CunningStunts/Tapestry E2 5c *** 1
47 Cunning Stunts
-
E2 5c * 5
48 Sheol
-
E2 5c ** 5
49 North-East Climb
-
MS * 10
50 Savage Gully
-
MVS 4b  
51 North Climb S 4a *** 89
52 Akhnaton
-
VS 4c 2
53 Klingsor
-
E2 5c *  
54 Patriarch of the Pillarites
-
E3 5c *  
55 Proton
-
HVS 5a  
56 Scylla
-
HVS 5a ** 13
57 Puppet
-
E2 5b * 3
58 Straits of Messina
-
E4 6a * 2
59 Megaton E1 5a *** 29
60 Roraima
-
E1 5b 1
61 Goodbye to All That E1 5b ** 9
62 Nor'-Nor'-West Climb
-
VS 4c * 13
63 Ximenes
-
HVS 5b * 6
64 North-West Climb VS 4b *** 91
65 Charybdis
-
HVS 5a ** 3
  Low Man West Face
67 Goth E1 5b ** 9
68 Gaul
-
HVS 5a ***  
69 The Hun
-
VS 4c * 3
70 Mirror, Mirror... E2 5b ** 4
71 The Terrorist
-
E2 5c  
72 The Appian Way HS 4b ** 41
73 Triton
-
VS 4c 1
74 Attila
-
HVS 5a  
75 Nook and Wall Climb
-
S 4c *  
76 The Devil's Entrance
-
MVS 4b 1
77 Thor
-
MVS 4b * 1
78 Err
-
VS 4b * 1
79 Ledge and Groove Climb
-
S 2
80 Lepton
-
HVS 5a  
Climb name Grade
81 Bosun
-
HVS 5b  
82 West Wall Climb HVD ** 28
83 The Devil's Exit
-
HVS 5a  
84 Strider
-
VS 4c *  
  High Man West Face
86 Pillar Rock, The Old West Route M *** 40
87 The Pulpit Route
-
VD 2
88 Gondor E2 5c ** 11
89 Gomorrah VS 4c ** 17
90 Gomorrah Ridge Variation VS 4c *** 3
91 Vandal HVS 5a ** 27
92 Sodom
-
VS 4b * 1
93 Cheekwooly S ** 2
94 Rib and Slab Climb HS 4b *** 204
95 Rib and Rib Climb
-
E1 5a ** 1
96 New West Climb VD *** 269
97 The South-West by West Climb VS 4b *** 3
98 South-West Climb
-
MVS 4b *** 49
99 Boot Strap
-
VS 4b 2
100 West Jordan Gully
-
S 1
101 The Girdle Traverse
-
VS 5a  
102 Pillar of Salt E1 5c ** 1
  Winter Routes
104 Harlequin Chimneys (winter)
-
V 6 ** 1
105 Photon Corner
-
IV 4  
106 Shamrock Chimneys
-
IV 4 *  
107 Walkers Gully
-
V 4  
108 Savage Gully
-
V 6 1
109 North East Climb (winter) V 6 *** 2
110 North West Climb
-
V 5 5
111 West Waterfall Gully IV 5 ** 6
112 The Old West (winter)
-
III * 20
113 Gomorrah (winter)
-
VII 7 **  
114 New West (winter)
-
IV 4 * 7
115 Tower Postern (winter)
-
VI 6 ** 2
116 Pisgah West Traverse M 8
117 East Pisgah Chimney Left M 2
118 Electron-Positron
-
VII 7 *** 1

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