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UKClimbing Team

Climbs 48
Rocktype Rhyolite

Faces S

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Ogwen Crack © mr mills

Crag features

This ;little frequented crag comprises an area of broken butresses and grass/scree filled gullies nearly 100m above the A5 on the slopes of Pen yr Ole Wen. It is the most accessible crag in the Carneddau.

Series of cliffs with extremely complex structure; climbing is good despite the occasional patches of friable rock. Plenty of space for new routing for those thus inclined. Rarely busy. Mainly multi-pitch routes to 80m.

Receives lots of sun so will dry quickly, but are exposed to any bad weather.

Approach notes

From the parking at Ogwen Cottage on the A5, cross the road and gain the hillside under the crag via the stile.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Android and iOS devices.


North Wales Climbs

North Wales Climbs covers the best climbing from the whole of this huge and varied area. The book is modelled on the very popular West Country Climbs which set a new standard for selected climb guidebooks back in 2010. It contains all the routes from the 2010 publication North Wales Classics and many more routes and areas, with expanded descriptions and much bigger photo-topos. The book covers all the major mountain crags from Llanberis Pass, to Cloggy; and from Ogwen to the Carneddau. It also includes the Llanberis Slate quarries, Tremadog, the Moelwyns, the Gwynant Valley, Mid-Wales, Gogarth and the North Coast Limestone.
More info

North Wales Classics

A significant addition to the Rockfax stable; North Wales Classics is a pocket-sized guide packs in hundreds of superb routes throughout the mountains of Snowdonia. From Tremadog to Tryfan, and everywhere in between, the book covers mid-grade routes on the best crags and features top-notch photo-topos and inspirational action shots taking you where you want to go.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Scrambles in Snowdonia (2002)
Ogwen and Carneddau (1993)
Route finding can be daunting at first, with I think 9 seperate buttresses. But once you find a landmark (No. 7 has 2 diamond-shaped roofs on it) it all falls into place. Very quiet, despite being in spitting distance of Ogwen Cottage. And you can watch the hordes trooping up the path to Idwal Slabs as you belay!
KeithW - 04/Nov/05
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Ogwen Pinacle
2 Pont Pen y Benglog Buttress D 4
  Buttress 1
  Buttress 2
  Buttress 3
6 Widdershins
VS 4c * 6
7 Apprentice's Route
HVS 4c * 2
8 Braich Ty Du Face Right-Hand Start 3 * 14
  Buttress 4
  Buttress 5
11 Pinnacle Ridge VD ** 357
12 Braich Ty Du Face 2 * 60
13 Pinnacle Ridge Route variation start * VS 4b * 2
  Buttress 6
15 Custodian's Creep
S 2
  Buttress 7
17 Decameron Rib VS 4b ** 33
18 Manic Monday E2 5c  
19 Temptation
VD 3
20 Patience
S 5
Climb name Grade
  Buttress 8
22 Route Two S ** 25
23 Cuckoo Groove HVS 4c * 14
  Buttress 9
25 Gargoyle S 2
26 Ogwen Crack E7 6c ** 1
27 Cluck's Nook HS 2
28 Alouette VS 1
  Winter Routes
30 Grugog Tower IV **  
31 Grugog Gully IV 4  
33 Ogwen Arete f4+ *** 11
34 Ogwen Arete LH f5+ ** 4
35 Renaissance Of The Small Hold V8 ** 6
36 Ogwen Wall f6B * 20
37 Slippy Arete f6B+ * 2
38 4B! f4+ 2
39 6B f6B 1
40 Lakeside Wall f5 ** 6
Climb name Grade
41 Lakeside Wall sds f6B ** 3
42 5a (Problem 25 NWB) f5 3
43 Not 5a f6B+ * 2
44 Three's a Crowd f7A+ * 4
45 Menage et Toi V6 ** 7
46 Ogwen roadside traverse f6C+ ** 2
47 Ogwen roadside traverse lefthand version. f6C ** 1
48 45 Rpm f7A * 1
49 Ogwen arete lefthand sds f6C * 1
50 Ogwen wall sds f6C 1
51 THFMP f4+ 5a  
52 Mr bo jangles f5+ *  
53 Moon pie f6A * 1
54 Ugly arete f5+ 5c  
55 Mr no jangles left hand f5+ *  
56 Ar Dan E2 5c **  
57 Dal dy Dir E3 5c **  
58 Daisy World E7 6c ** 1
59 Cellophane Rain E5 6a ** 1
60 Porcupine Ridge 2 * 2
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer wolf.leeb