Climbs 40
Rocktype Rhyolite

Faces S

Ogwen Crack © mr mills

Crag features

This ;little frequented crag comprises an area of broken butresses and grass/scree filled gullies nearly 100m above the A5 on the slopes of Pen yr Ole Wen. It is the most accessible crag in the Carneddau.

Series of cliffs with extremely complex structure; climbing is good despite the occasional patches of friable rock. Plenty of space for new routing for those thus inclined. Rarely busy. Mainly multi-pitch routes to 80m.

Receives lots of sun so will dry quickly, but are exposed to any bad weather.

Approach notes

From the parking at Ogwen Cottage on the A5, cross the road and gain the hillside under the crag via the stile.

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North Wales Climbs

North Wales Climbs covers the best climbing from the whole of this huge and varied area. The book is modelled on the very popular West Country Climbs which set a new standard for selected climb guidebooks back in 2010. It contains all the routes from the 2010 publication North Wales Classics and many more routes and areas, with expanded descriptions and much bigger photo-topos. The book covers all the major mountain crags from Llanberis Pass, to Cloggy; and from Ogwen to the Carneddau. It also includes the Llanberis Slate quarries, Tremadog, the Moelwyns, the Gwynant Valley, Mid-Wales, Gogarth and the North Coast Limestone.
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North Wales Classics

A significant addition to the Rockfax stable; North Wales Classics is a pocket-sized guide packs in hundreds of superb routes throughout the mountains of Snowdonia. From Tremadog to Tryfan, and everywhere in between, the book covers mid-grade routes on the best crags and features top-notch photo-topos and inspirational action shots taking you where you want to go.
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More Guidebooks:
Scrambles in Snowdonia (2002)
Ogwen and Carneddau (1993)
Route finding can be daunting at first, with I think 9 seperate buttresses. But once you find a landmark (No. 7 has 2 diamond-shaped roofs on it) it all falls into place. Very quiet, despite being in spitting distance of Ogwen Cottage. And you can watch the hordes trooping up the path to Idwal Slabs as you belay!
KeithW - 04/Nov/05
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Ogwen Pinacle 
2Pont Pen y Benglog ButtressD 3
 Buttress 1 
 Buttress 2 
 Buttress 3 
VS 4c *4
7Apprentice's Route
HVS 4c *1
8Braich Ty Du Face Right-Hand Start3 *12
 Buttress 4 
 Buttress 5 
11Pinnacle RidgeVD **342
12Braich Ty Du Face2 *35
 Buttress 6 
14Custodian's Creep
S 2
 Buttress 7 
16Decameron RibVS 4b **31
17Manic MondayE2 5c  
VD 3
S 5
 Buttress 8 
21Route TwoS **23
22Cuckoo GrooveHVS 4c *12
 Buttress 9 
24GargoyleS 2
25Menage et ToiV6 **5
26Renaissance Of The Small HoldV8 **2
27Ogwen CrackE7 6c **1
28Cluck's NookHS 2
29AlouetteVS 1
 Winter Routes 
31Grugog TowerIV 4/5 ** 
32Grugog GullyIV 4  

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