Climbs 43
Rocktype Rhyolite

Faces NE

Half way up in deep powder. © Adam T

Crag features

Nice crag to escape the crowds. Fine quality rock, with easy grade routes, multi-pitch to 100 metres.

Approach notes

Approach from Glan Dena at the east end of Llyn Ogwen (SH668606). There is ample parking along the main road. A track leads to Tal y Llyn farm. Just before the farm turn up right and walk along a wall to a stile. Go over this and then an initially faint path zigzags up the hillside west of Afon Lloer to a stone wall. After the wall the path eventually leads into the cwm, and so the llyn. The crag is beyond the llyn, as is a small flat area of ground on which to set up a nice little campsite for the weekend.

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Guidebooks

North Wales Climbs

North Wales Climbs covers the best climbing from the whole of this huge and varied area. The book is modelled on the very popular West Country Climbs which set a new standard for selected climb guidebooks back in 2010. It contains all the routes from the 2010 publication North Wales Classics and many more routes and areas, with expanded descriptions and much bigger photo-topos. The book covers all the major mountain crags from Llanberis Pass, to Cloggy; and from Ogwen to the Carneddau. It also includes the Llanberis Slate quarries, Tremadog, the Moelwyns, the Gwynant Valley, Mid-Wales, Gogarth and the North Coast Limestone.
More info

North Wales Classics

A significant addition to the Rockfax stable; North Wales Classics is a pocket-sized guide packs in hundreds of superb routes throughout the mountains of Snowdonia. From Tremadog to Tryfan, and everywhere in between, the book covers mid-grade routes on the best crags and features top-notch photo-topos and inspirational action shots taking you where you want to go.
More info
More Guidebooks:
North Wales Rock (2006)
Ogwen and Carneddau (1993)
Welsh Winter Climbs (1988)
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Summer Rock Climbs
2 Central Route
-
VD  
3 Hhier VS 4b 1
4 Good Egg
-
HVS 5a  
5 Moonrise S  
6 The Eastern Arete D 11
7 Kirkus's Route VS 5a *** 143
8 First Trinity Groove VD  
9 The Rib S * 38
10 Second Trinity Groove S  
11 Third Trinity Groove HVS 5a 1
12 Central Ridge VS 4b * 29
13 Grooved Ridge D 6
14 North Arete D * 32
15 Bivouac Buttress D 1
16 Slab Route II
-
VD  
17 Slab Route I
-
M 1
18 Chimney Buttress D  
19 Hale Bop
-
HVS 5a 1
  Summer Scrambles
21 Broad Gully Ridge
-
2 9
22 Craig Lloer Spur
-
3 * 61
  Winter Routes
24 Hourglass Gully
-
I 94
25 Broad Gully
-
I/II 226
26 Broad Gully Icefall V 5 * 8
27 Moonlighting
-
V 5 ** 3
28 Moongrooves
-
IV 4 * 7
29 Moonrise Direct
-
VI 7 **  
30 Moomin
-
IV 5  
31 Moonshine
-
IV 4 4
32 Left-hand Y Gully
-
II * 26
33 Don't Forget Your Sole III 5
34 Right-hand Y Gully
-
I/II 63
35 Eastern Arete (aka Craig Lloer Spur)
-
IV 4 * 2
36 Eastern Arete Direct
-
V 5 **  
37 First Trinity Groove
-
IV 4 ** 2
38 Third Trinity Groove VII 7 * 3
39 North Arete D * 2
40 The headwall
-
I 41
41 Col Gully
-
I 28
42 Moonflower V 6 ** 1
43 Equinox I 8
44 Grooved Ridge IV 5 * 2
45 Holy Trinity Direct V 6 * 2
46 Holy Trinity V 5 3

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