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UKClimbing Team

Climbs 47
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)

Faces SE

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Biceps Wall © Rog Wilko

Crag features

A fine little crag receiving sunshine for most of the day. Strenuous climbing on sound, rough rock - Cwm Eigiau formation sandstone - a nice change from the mainly Rhyolite crags elsewhere in the area. Best climbing to be had in the intermediate grades. Mainly multi-pitch to 30 metres.

Approach notes

Follow the access road to Ffynnon Llugwy as for Craig yr Ysfa to the leat or watercourse which traverses the hillside, and follow this leftwards (there is a sign saying no through access - everything to the North of the leat is access land) to a footbridge just before Afon Llugwy; then take a direct line to the boulder slopes below the crag, about 30 mins from the road.

On no account should the private road to the farm at Glan Llugwy be used. Moreover, the access road serves both the water authorities, farmer and the Mountain Rescue teams -- therefore, do NOT park in front of the locked access gate.

Rockfax App

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North Wales Climbs

North Wales Climbs covers the best climbing from the whole of this huge and varied area. The book is modelled on the very popular West Country Climbs which set a new standard for selected climb guidebooks back in 2010. It contains all the routes from the 2010 publication North Wales Classics and many more routes and areas, with expanded descriptions and much bigger photo-topos. The book covers all the major mountain crags from Llanberis Pass, to Cloggy; and from Ogwen to the Carneddau. It also includes the Llanberis Slate quarries, Tremadog, the Moelwyns, the Gwynant Valley, Mid-Wales, Gogarth and the North Coast Limestone.
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North Wales Classics

A significant addition to the Rockfax stable; North Wales Classics is a pocket-sized guide packs in hundreds of superb routes throughout the mountains of Snowdonia. From Tremadog to Tryfan, and everywhere in between, the book covers mid-grade routes on the best crags and features top-notch photo-topos and inspirational action shots taking you where you want to go.
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More Guidebooks:
Ogwen and Carneddau (1993)
A really pleasant mountain crag with a beautiful outlook and position. Walk in is relatively painless and the rock is lovely and rough. Well worth going up if you climb around VS.
The Pylon King - 24/Jun/07
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  West Buttress
2 Subsidiary Slab VS 4c 2
3 Sidewinder E2 6a 1
4 Dead Mouse Crack HVS 5a 2
5 Rodent Wall E1 5c 1
6 Button Up HVS 5b 1
7 Zip Wall HS 4b * 112
8 Zip Up / Red river E1 5b ** 7
9 Zip Groove VS 4b * 127
10 Unzipped E4 6a **  
11 Cracked Arete VS 4c *** 197
12 Zippo E3 5c * 4
13 Moss wall VS 13
14 Redstart E2 5c  
15 The Crawl Climb VD 6
16 Brexistential Crisis E3 5c *  
17 Crack and Corner VD 7
Climb name Grade
18 Blood Red Moon E1 5b  
19 Unnamed 1 HVS 5b  
20 Unnamed 2 E1 5b *  
21 Central Route VS 4b  
22 Macavity E4 6b *  
23 Macavity Variant E2 5c * 1
  East Buttress
25 Angle Gully S  
26 Tramline Traverse VD  
27 Clavicle E1 5b 1
28 The Wild Bunch E2 5c  
29 Pectoral Wall HVS 5a 9
30 The Regulators E1 5b *  
31 Carry on Cowboy E2 5c * 1
32 Temper E2 5c * 3
33 Triceps Roof E4 6a * 1
34 Biceps Wall VS 5a * 97
Climb name Grade
35 Funny Bone E1 5b * 5
36 Funny Bone Variation E2 5b 1
37 Laughing Matter E3 6a  
38 Knee Cap VS 4c 10
39 The Outlaws E1 5b * 1
40 Mitre VS 4b  
41 Jane (If she doesn't mind) S 6
42 Wisecrack E4 6a  
43 Right Chimney M 3
44 Wiley Coyote HVS 5b 1
45 The Man From God's Country VS 5a 2
46 Getaway HVS  
47 Young Guns *
E2 5c * 2
48 Turtle Recall *
E2 5c * 1
  Upper Tier
50 Pinnaclissimo S * 3
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Ron Rees Davies