Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Biceps Wall © Rog Wilko
A fine little crag receiving sunshine for most of the day. Strenuous climbing on sound, rough rock - Cwm Eigiau formation sandstone - a nice change from the mainly Rhyolite crags elsewhere in the area. Best climbing to be had in the intermediate grades. Mainly multi-pitch to 30 metres.
Follow the access road to Ffynnon Llugwy as for Craig yr Ysfa to the leat or watercourse which traverses the hillside, and follow this leftwards (there is a sign saying no through access - everything to the North of the leat is access land) to a footbridge just before Afon Llugwy; then take a direct line to the boulder slopes below the crag, about 30 mins from the road.
On no account should the private road to the farm at Glan Llugwy be used. Moreover, the access road serves both the water authorities, farmer and the Mountain Rescue teams -- therefore, do NOT park in front of the locked access gate.
|A really pleasant mountain crag with a beautiful outlook and position. Walk in is relatively painless and the rock is lovely and rough. Well worth going up if you climb around VS.|
The Pylon King - 24/Jun/07