Climbs 86
Rocktype Andesite
Altitude 1115m a.s.l
Faces all

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Sunset from Stob Coire nan Lochan © G.Robertson

Crag features

Defined by high steep ridges the Northeast corrie of Stob Coire nan Lochan is an idyllic spot with tall columnar cliffs an deeply cut gullies. Its height makes it one of the most reliable winter climbing spots in Glencoe and it offers excellent routes of all grades. A fair amount of loose rock and windslab avalanches on the lower slopes can be hazardous.

Approach notes

Cross the footbridge over the River Coe and plod up the path to the foot of the crags.

Approach time: 1.5 hours

Another confusion: Raeburn's Route and Ordinary Route (Central Buttress) are the same route.
Andy Moles - 30/Jan/10
There seems to be a bit of confusion on ukclimbing.com between Stob Coire nan Lochan (Glencoe) and Coire an Lochain (N. Cairngorms)in the links from photos in the Gallery section. This could lead to people walking up from the Clachaig looking for Savage Slit !
John Hawins - 14/Feb/04
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Bidean nam Bian - Stob Coire nan Lochan summit
-
summit 283
  Summit Buttress
3 Wandering Wombat II 14
4 Boomerang Gully Left-hand Finish
-
II * 52
5 Boomerang Gully II * 406
6 Boomerang Arête
-
III 40
7 Ordinary Route (Summit Buttress) IV 5 * 96
8 Yankee Go Home III 4
9 The Duel
-
IX 9 *** 5
10 En Garde IX 9 *** 2
11 Scabbard Chimney V 6 *** 218
12 Spectre V 6 * 54
13 Innuendo V 6 * 44
14 Langsam II * 24
15 Pearly Gates
-
I/II 26
16 The Tempest M9 *** 1
17 Broad Gully I * 642
18 Dorsal Arête (Summer) M * 5
19 Dorsal Arête (Winter) II *** 1523
20 Dorsal Arête Chimney Variation
-
IV 5 ** 45
21 Forked Gully Left-hand I * 141
22 Forked Gully Right-hand II 95
23 Seattle Grooves IV 5 2
24 Twisting Grooves IV 5 ** 78
25 Twisting Gully III 4 *** 532
26 Twisting Gully Right-hand IV 5 ** 61
27 Double Intendre
-
V 6 1
28 Langsam Variant IV 4 ** 1
29 Ordinary Route Direct Finish V 6 ** 1
  South Buttress
31 Moonshine VI 7 ** 2
32 Moonshadow IV 5 ** 42
33 Twisted VII 7 *** 4
Climb name Grade
34 Chimney Route VI 6 *** 71
35 Tilt (Summer)
-
VS 4c *** 12
36 Tilt (Winter) VI 7 *** 70
37 Inclination
-
VII 7 *** 16
38 Unicorn (Summer)
-
E1 5a *** 136
39 Unicorn (Winter) VIII 8 *** 18
40 Shadhavar (Summer)
-
E3 6a ***  
41 Shadhavar (Winter)
-
VIII 9 1
42 Scansor (Summer)
-
E2 5b ** 19
43 Scansor (Winter) IX 9  
44 Eggaschpili IX 9  
45 SC Gully III *** 379
46 SC Gully Direct IV * 14
47 SC Gully Variant IV 4 * 10
48 Micro Rib IV 5 * 3
49 Impulsive Inclination VIII 8 **  
  Central Buttress
51 Year of the Horse IX 9  
52 East Face Route
-
V 7 * 3
53 East Face Direct Direct VII 7 *** 12
54 Scrabble VIII 7 ** 5
55 Central Grooves (Summer)
-
VS 4c * 27
56 Central Grooves (Winter) VII 7 *** 66
57 Central Buttress
-
VII 7 *** 16
58 The Starting Blocks VII 8 *** 6
59 Tried and Tested VII 7 ** 2
60 Satyr IX 9 ** 3
61 Ordinary Route (Central Buttress), AKA Raeburn's Route
-
IV 4 ** 447
62 NC Gully II * 364
  North Buttress
64 Evening Citizen V 7 ** 41
65 Para Andy
-
VI 7 * 8
66 Intruder V 7 * 37
Climb name Grade
67 Crest Route V 7 *** 146
68 Tuberculosis VII 7 ** 1
69 Black Box IV 5 * 4
70 North Gully I/II 33
  Pinnacle Buttress
72 Pinnacle Buttress Groove II/III * 42
73 Raeburn's Route (Pedestal Variation)
-
IV 5 *** 22
74 The Struggler V 7 ** 1
  Right-hand Crag
76 False Pinnacle 2 1
77 Centre Route I  
78 Symphonic Variations II/III * 1
  The Pinnacle
80 The Arête M 4
81 West Wall Route D 1
82 West is Best VD * 1
83 The Short Side 1 3
84 The Surprise S * 1
85 East Wall Route D * 4
86 East Wall Semi-Direct D * 1
87 Pinnacle Gully (Winter) I 27
  Trafalgar Buttress
89 Hermann D 1
90 Piccolo VD * 1
91 Nelson's Slab D 2
92 The Hermit's Hole III * 2
93 Raeburn's Route IV 4 *** 3
94 Troglodyte III * 1
  Routes Added from Rockfax Book
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