Climbs 60
Rocktype Andesite
Altitude 800m a.s.l
Faces NE

Sunset from Stob Coire nan Lochan © G.Robertson

Crag features

Defined by high steep ridges the North-East corrie of Stob Coire nan Lochan is an idyllic spot with tall columnar cliffs an deeply cut gullies. Its height makes it one of the most reliable winter climbing spots in Glencoe and it offers excellent routes of all grades. A fair amount of loose rock and windslab avalanches on the lower slopes can be hazardous.

Approach notes

Cross the footbridge over the River Coe at 166566 and plod up the path to the foot of the crags in about 1 1/2 hours

Another confusion: Raeburn's Route and Ordinary Route (Central Buttress) are the same route.
Andy Moles - 30/Jan/10
There seems to be a bit of confusion on ukclimbing.com between Stob Coire nan Lochan (Glencoe) and Coire an Lochain (N. Cairngorms)in the links from photos in the Gallery section. This could lead to people walking up from the Clachaig looking for Savage Slit !
John Hawins - 14/Feb/04
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Summit Buttress
2 Wandering Wombat II 9
3 Boomerang Gully (Left exit)
-
II * 47
4 Boomerang Gully
-
II 380
5 Boomerang Arete
-
III 31
6 Ordinary Route (Summit Buttress)
-
IV 5 * 82
7 Yankee Go Home III 1
8 The Duel
-
IX 9 *** 3
9 Scabbard Chimney
-
V 6 *** 205
10 Spectre
-
V 6 * 52
11 Innuendo
-
V 6 33
12 Langsam II * 19
13 Pearly Gates
-
I/II 25
14 The Tempest M9 *** 1
15 Broad Gully
-
I 553
16 Dorsal Arete II *** 1388
17 Dorsal Arete M * 2
18 Dorsal Arete Chimney Variation
-
IV 5 ** 37
19 Forked Gully Left Hand I/II 124
20 Forked Gully Right Hand
-
II/III 82
21 Seattle Grooves IV 5 2
22 Twisting Grooves IV 5 ** 56
23 Twisting Gully
-
III 4 *** 575
24 Twisting Gully Right-Hand
-
IV 5 *** 51
25 Double Intendre
-
V 6 1
  South Buttress
27 Moonshine VI 7 ** 2
28 Moonshadow
-
IV 4 * 36
29 Twisted VII 7 *** 3
30 Chimney Route
-
VI 6 *** 79
31 Tilt
-
VS 4c *** 11
32 Tilt
-
VI 7 *** 74
33 Inclination
-
VII 7 *** 11
34 Unicorn
-
E1 5a *** 197
35 Unicorn VIII 8 *** 11
36 Shadhavar
-
E3 6a ***  
37 Shadhavar
-
VIII 9 1
38 Scansor
-
E2 5b ** 16
39 SC Gully
-
III *** 431
40 SC Gully Direct IV *  
41 SC Gully Variant IV 4 * 9
  Central Buttress
43 East Face Route
-
V 7 * 3
44 East Face Direct Direct
-
VII 7 *** 5
45 Scrabble VIII 7 ** 1
46 Central Grooves
-
VS 4c * 22
47 Central Grooves VII 7 *** 46
48 Central Buttress
-
VII 7 *** 8
49 The Starting Blocks VII 8 *** 3
50 Satyr IX 9 ** 1
51 Ordinary Route (Central Buttress), AKA Raeburn's Route
-
IV 4 ** 404
52 NC Gully
-
I/II 354
  North Buttress
54 Evening Citizen
-
V 7 * 17
55 Para Andy
-
VI 7 * 8
56 Intruder
-
VI 7 * 26
57 Crest Route
-
V 6 ** 106
58 Tuberculosis VII 7 ** 1
59 Black Box IV 5 * 3
60 North Gully I/II 31
  Pinnacle Buttress
62 Pinnacle Buttress Groove II/III * 42
63 Pinnacle Gully I 24
64 Raeburn's Route (Pedestal Variation)
-
IV 5 *** 18
65 The Struggler V 7 ** 1

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