UKC

Climbs 66
Rocktype Andesite
Altitude 861m a.s.l
Faces NE

Sunset from Stob Coire nan Lochan © G.Robertson

Crag features

Defined by high steep ridges the North-East corrie of Stob Coire nan Lochan is an idyllic spot with tall columnar cliffs an deeply cut gullies. Its height makes it one of the most reliable winter climbing spots in Glencoe and it offers excellent routes of all grades. A fair amount of loose rock and windslab avalanches on the lower slopes can be hazardous.

Approach notes

Cross the footbridge over the River Coe at 166566 and plod up the path to the foot of the crags in about 1 1/2 hours

Another confusion: Raeburn's Route and Ordinary Route (Central Buttress) are the same route.
Andy Moles - 30/Jan/10
There seems to be a bit of confusion on ukclimbing.com between Stob Coire nan Lochan (Glencoe) and Coire an Lochain (N. Cairngorms)in the links from photos in the Gallery section. This could lead to people walking up from the Clachaig looking for Savage Slit !
John Hawins - 14/Feb/04
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Summit Buttress
2 Wandering Wombat II 13
3 Boomerang Gully (Left exit)
-
II * 53
4 Boomerang Gully
-
II 385
5 Boomerang Arete
-
III 36
6 Ordinary Route (Summit Buttress)
-
IV 5 * 85
7 Yankee Go Home III 3
8 The Duel
-
IX 9 *** 4
9 Scabbard Chimney
-
V 6 *** 205
10 Spectre
-
V 6 * 54
11 Innuendo
-
V 6 38
12 Langsam II * 24
13 Pearly Gates
-
I/II 26
14 The Tempest M9 *** 1
15 Broad Gully
-
I 605
16 Dorsal Arete II *** 1425
17 Dorsal Arete M * 2
18 Dorsal Arete Chimney Variation
-
IV 5 ** 42
19 Forked Gully Left Hand I/II 133
20 Forked Gully Right Hand
-
II/III 93
21 Seattle Grooves IV 5 2
22 Twisting Grooves IV 5 ** 69
23 Twisting Gully
-
III 4 *** 517
24 Twisting Gully Right-Hand
-
IV 5 *** 59
Climb name Grade
25 Double Intendre
-
V 6 1
26 Langsam Variant IV 4 ** 1
27 Ordinary Route (Direct Finish) *
-
V 6 **  
  South Buttress
29 Moonshine VI 7 ** 2
30 Moonshadow
-
IV 4 * 39
31 Twisted VII 7 *** 3
32 Chimney Route
-
VI 6 *** 66
33 Tilt
-
VS 4c *** 12
34 Tilt
-
VI 7 *** 63
35 Inclination
-
VII 7 *** 13
36 Unicorn
-
E1 5a *** 131
37 Unicorn VIII 8 *** 15
38 Shadhavar
-
E3 6a ***  
39 Shadhavar
-
VIII 9 1
40 Scansor
-
E2 5b ** 20
41 Scansor IX 9  
42 Eggaschpili IX 9  
43 SC Gully
-
III *** 373
44 SC Gully Direct IV * 14
45 SC Gully Variant IV 4 * 10
46 Micro Rib IV 5 *  
  Central Buttress
48 Year of the Horse IX 9  
Climb name Grade
49 East Face Route
-
V 7 * 3
50 East Face Direct Direct
-
VII 7 *** 10
51 Scrabble VIII 7 ** 5
52 Central Grooves
-
VS 4c * 24
53 Central Grooves VII 7 *** 57
54 Central Buttress
-
VII 7 *** 11
55 The Starting Blocks VII 8 *** 4
56 Satyr IX 9 ** 1
57 Ordinary Route (Central Buttress), AKA Raeburn's Route
-
IV 4 ** 428
58 NC Gully
-
I/II 353
  North Buttress
60 Evening Citizen
-
V 7 * 41
61 Para Andy
-
VI 7 * 8
62 Intruder
-
VI 7 * 37
63 Crest Route
-
V 6 ** 132
64 Tuberculosis VII 7 ** 1
65 Black Box IV 5 * 4
66 North Gully I/II 33
  Pinnacle Buttress
68 Pinnacle Buttress Groove II/III * 41
69 Pinnacle Gully I 26
70 Raeburn's Route (Pedestal Variation)
-
IV 5 *** 22
71 The Struggler V 7 ** 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Neil Adams