UKC

Climbs 63
Rocktype Andesite
Altitude 861m a.s.l
Faces NE

Sunset from Stob Coire nan Lochan © G.Robertson

Crag features

Defined by high steep ridges the North-East corrie of Stob Coire nan Lochan is an idyllic spot with tall columnar cliffs an deeply cut gullies. Its height makes it one of the most reliable winter climbing spots in Glencoe and it offers excellent routes of all grades. A fair amount of loose rock and windslab avalanches on the lower slopes can be hazardous.

Approach notes

Cross the footbridge over the River Coe at 166566 and plod up the path to the foot of the crags in about 1 1/2 hours

Another confusion: Raeburn's Route and Ordinary Route (Central Buttress) are the same route.
Andy Moles - 30/Jan/10
There seems to be a bit of confusion on ukclimbing.com between Stob Coire nan Lochan (Glencoe) and Coire an Lochain (N. Cairngorms)in the links from photos in the Gallery section. This could lead to people walking up from the Clachaig looking for Savage Slit !
John Hawins - 14/Feb/04
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Summit Buttress
2 Wandering Wombat II 12
3 Boomerang Gully (Left exit)
-
II * 53
4 Boomerang Gully
-
II 386
5 Boomerang Arete
-
III 36
6 Ordinary Route (Summit Buttress)
-
IV 5 * 85
7 Yankee Go Home III 3
8 The Duel
-
IX 9 *** 4
9 Scabbard Chimney
-
V 6 *** 203
10 Spectre
-
V 6 * 54
11 Innuendo
-
V 6 37
12 Langsam II * 24
13 Pearly Gates
-
I/II 26
14 The Tempest M9 *** 1
15 Broad Gully
-
I 599
16 Dorsal Arete II *** 1406
17 Dorsal Arete M * 2
18 Dorsal Arete Chimney Variation
-
IV 5 ** 42
19 Forked Gully Left Hand I/II 133
20 Forked Gully Right Hand
-
II/III 91
21 Seattle Grooves IV 5 2
22 Twisting Grooves IV 5 ** 68
23 Twisting Gully
-
III 4 *** 513
Climb name Grade
24 Twisting Gully Right-Hand
-
IV 5 *** 57
25 Double Intendre
-
V 6 1
26 Langsam Variant IV 4 ** 1
  South Buttress
28 Moonshine VI 7 ** 2
29 Moonshadow
-
IV 4 * 39
30 Twisted VII 7 *** 3
31 Chimney Route
-
VI 6 *** 62
32 Tilt
-
VS 4c *** 11
33 Tilt
-
VI 7 *** 61
34 Inclination
-
VII 7 *** 13
35 Unicorn
-
E1 5a *** 116
36 Unicorn VIII 8 *** 14
37 Shadhavar
-
E3 6a ***  
38 Shadhavar
-
VIII 9 1
39 Scansor
-
E2 5b ** 18
40 SC Gully
-
III *** 368
41 SC Gully Direct IV * 13
42 SC Gully Variant IV 4 * 11
43 Micro Rib IV 5 *  
  Central Buttress
45 East Face Route
-
V 7 * 3
46 East Face Direct Direct
-
VII 7 *** 10
Climb name Grade
47 Scrabble VIII 7 ** 5
48 Central Grooves
-
VS 4c * 24
49 Central Grooves VII 7 *** 56
50 Central Buttress
-
VII 7 *** 11
51 The Starting Blocks VII 8 *** 3
52 Satyr IX 9 ** 1
53 Ordinary Route (Central Buttress), AKA Raeburn's Route
-
IV 4 ** 422
54 NC Gully
-
I/II 350
  North Buttress
56 Evening Citizen
-
V 7 * 39
57 Para Andy
-
VI 7 * 8
58 Intruder
-
VI 7 * 35
59 Crest Route
-
V 6 ** 128
60 Tuberculosis VII 7 ** 1
61 Black Box IV 5 * 4
62 North Gully I/II 32
  Pinnacle Buttress
64 Pinnacle Buttress Groove II/III * 41
65 Pinnacle Gully I 25
66 Raeburn's Route (Pedestal Variation)
-
IV 5 *** 22
67 The Struggler V 7 ** 1

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