Climbs 78
Rocktype Rhyolite
Altitude 1150m a.s.l
Faces N

Crag features

Glen Coe's most remote crag, with a fantastic mountaineering atmosphere. Relatively few climbers will be encountered here compared with busier cliffs in the Glen. Both summer and winter routes of quality exist here, with some good mid-grade winter routes often being in condition when lower cliffs are not so good.

The main features are as following:

Diamond Buttress and Church Door Buttress, split by Central Gully (an easy winter route), which is in turn split at the bottom by the rock tower of Collie's Pinnacle
Bishop's Buttress, capped by the West Summit of Bidean nam Bian.

Approach notes

Park just off the A82 in a small car park by Achnambeithhach. Walk a little way along the A82 towards Glencoe Village and climb over the road barrier and go through a gate at the other side of the bridge.

Follow the well constructed path upwards. Further up; head left across the coire to the bottom of the crags.  Around 2 hours 30 to the base on the crag.

Guidebooks

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Bidean nam Bian summit
-
summit 416
  North East Face
3 North-East Face II * 3
4 Gully to the left of Gateway Gully II * 1
5 Gateway Gully II * 1
6 Central Route I * 2
  Diamond Buttress
8 North Route II 4
9 North Route (summer) D 3
10 North Route (Icefall variation) III 1
11 North Route Direct III ** 14
12 Diamond Route
-
V 6 * 1
13 Diamond Diretissima HVS 4c *  
14 Direct Route (summer)
-
S  
15 Direct Route (winter)
-
V 6 ** 7
16 Winter Route
-
VI 6 *  
17 Diamond Edge
-
IV 5 * 1
18 Crazy Diamond III  
19 Choker III  
  Collie's Pinnacle
21 The Short Side
-
1  
22 North Chimney
-
D  
23 North Chimney IV 5  
24 Fever Pitch V 7  
25 West Face
-
VD  
26 West Face IV 6  
  Church Door Buttress
28 Central Gully (Left-Hand Start)
-
II ** 5
29 Koh-i-nor V 7 *  
30 Central Gully (Right-Hand Start)
-
I ** 40
31 Redemption
-
VI 6 *  
32 Un Poco Loco VII 7 *** 19
33 Crypt Route
-
VD *** 208
34 Right Route Direct III  
35 Crypt Route (winter)
-
V 6 *** 79
36 Flaked Out V 6 4
37 Flake Route VD ** 3
38 Flake Route (winter)
-
IV 6 ** 8
39 Flake Route Right Hand
-
V 7 6
40 Angles VIII 9  
41 West Face Route
-
S  
42 Dark Mass
-
VI 6 *  
43 Critical Mass VII 7  
44 Templer Knights VII 8 **  
45 West Chimney V 7 *** 82
46 Crusade VII 8 *** 1
47 Fundamentalists
-
E4 6a ***  
48 Lost Arrow
-
E3 6a ***  
49 Kingpin
-
E3 6a *** 12
50 The Lost Ark
-
E4 6a *** 3
51 The Holy Grail
-
E5 6b **  
52 Temple of Doom
-
E3 6a *** 2
53 Temple of Dumb E4 5c *  
54 The Last Crusade
-
E3 5c *  
55 The Gangway
-
II 4
56 Great Gully I 7
  Bishop's Buttress (West Summit)
58 Westie II 1
59 Anniversary Arete
-
E1 5b ** 1
60 The Crook
-
HVS 5a *  
61 Ambush
-
VI 7  
62 The Gallery
-
IV 5 * 1
63 Under the Weather VII 7  
64 The Fang
-
V 6 *  
65 Closer
-
IV 5 ** 1
66 St Peter's Well
-
VI 7 **  
67 Return of the Nedi
-
IV 5 * 1
68 Parthian Shot
-
V 7 *  
69 The Pash VI 6  
70 The Gash IV 4 24
71 Incision VI 7  
72 The Hash
-
III 3 3
73 Stramash IV 4  
74 Surely
-
II/III  
75 Hourglass Gully
-
I * 22
76 Hourglass Grove
-
III  
77 Dubiety
-
IV 5  
78 Minute Man
-
IV 5 * 1
79 Odyssey II/III * 1
80 Puppet on a String V 6 **  
81 Pirouette VI 7 **  
82 Tiger Feet IV 5 *  
83 Hoargasm VII 8 ** 2

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