Climbs 221
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 200m a.s.l
Faces S

The classic Baildon experience. Matt on Whillan’s Arete (VS 4c), kids from local estate © Jamie Moss

Crag features

Baildon Bank, loved and hated by generations of climbers in equal measure, is a 'hard' sandstone quarried crag with occasional capping blocks of non-quarried gritstone. A wry sense of humour is a must for climbers partaking of its many delights, and with good reason: sensational routes with divine and majestic sequences do have a notoriety for turning into worrying Elvis-leg bonazas and games of that favourite local pastime 'throw hand-holds from the crag' are all too often unwittingly commenced. Saharan top-outs which shower would-be eagles with sand and dust also tend to add food for thought. However, let us not be mistaken, Baildon Bank provides some of the finest climbs in the local area. There is an even spread of grades, with lower to middle grade routes like Hades (VS) and Epitaph (HS) - both 20m - smashing many of the '100 Classic Climbs in Yorkshire and the Peak District' routes out of the water. As for the Extremes, many are as good as you are likely to find anywhere in Yorkshire. Okay, Almscliffe might not give you the spray paint vandalism, broken bottles, little urchins from the local estate hanging around and so forth, but hey, the pubs are a lot closer to the crag! While the Roaches have that air of Whillans and Brown, so too does Baildon Bank have the imprint of legend Ian Clough, follow in his footsteps... if his holds are still attached that is.



South facing, Baildon Bank is one of the warmest of West Yorkshire crags, and tends to remain fairly sheltered from strong winds. Back in the day someone thought it was a good idea to paint the numbers of the routes on the crag, then many were subsequently repainted with different numbers, these can prove extremely confusing to Baildon Bank rookies - try to ignore them, they tend to bear no relation to anything useful regardless of which Yorkshire Gritstone guide you are using.

Approach notes

2 minutes from the road. Park on Green Lane 200m after Cliffe Ave branches off. Easy to trundle along the crag picking lines. Except the bottom Quarry, which is overgrown and mostly hidden in the trees above the Cricketer's Arms (BD17 7NE) and the infamous Box Quarry which was last visited by Percy Harrison Fawcett during his search for Eldorado in the 1920s, needless to say, he did not return.

One of Yorkshire Grit's best kept secrets.
Ewan Russell - 29/Jan/10
The bank is situated half way up a hill on the way to Baildon moor. You get there by taking a left at the pub (sorry can't remember the name) before you get into Baildon proper on the main road, then parking on the road below the crag. There's then a five minute walk up to the rock. The paths not too clear but it's pretty much opposite a playground. The banks not made of the best grit and in places it's just dangerous; on the right hand end (as you look at the crag) there are some really nice routes though. Well worth a stop on the way to Shipley glen.
djberry - 17/Mar/08
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Left to Right as of 2014 Guide
  Lower Quarry/ Anne of Cleaves / Cricketer's Quarry
3 Enterprise E2 6a 1
4 Hemispheres HVS 5b 1
5 Bipod MVS 4b 1
6 Carnival Carousel HVS 5a 1
7 Hergest Ridge E4 5c 3
8 Blinkers E5 6b 2
9 Futurama VS 4c 3
10 Anne of Cleaves E3 5c ** 10
11 Lightning HVS 5b 1
12 Desperado
-
E3 6a ** 2
13 Triang
-
HVS 5a * 22
14 Mandy Fly Me E2 5b * 11
15 Viper
-
VS 4c * 13
16 Adder Finish E2 5c 1
17 V Route
-
S 1
18 Lost Gold HVS 5a 4
19 Cleanstone Wall
-
E1 5c * 5
20 Cleanstone Crack VD 1
21 Arkansas
-
S 2
22 Diff D 4
23 Chat S 1
24 Blockhead
-
VD 5
25 Descent Route M 5
  Satire Area
27 Satire
-
E2 5b *** 13
28 Cavern Route S 4a * 2
  Coronation Street Area
30 Waredusitgo VS 4c 1
31 Cracker
-
HS 4a 4
32 Camera Shake HVS 5b 2
33 Broken Off
-
VD 10
34 The Blob
-
D 3
35 Bygones
-
VD 10
36 South Wall HVS 5c 1
37 Mash
-
S 5
38 All Fall Down
-
S 4a 2
39 Coronation Street
-
S 4a * 26
40 Up and Over VS 4c 2
41 Monkey Puzzle
-
VS 4c 10
42 Monkey Puzzle Left Hand Finish
-
HS 4b 2
  Upper Quarry (Right of Steps)
44 Bee Sting HVS 5a 5
45 Localmotion E1 5b * 2
46 Banana Groove S 4
47 Quaint Rock Wall
-
S 4a 6
48 Hotch Crack
-
D 4
49 Potch Wall
-
VS 4b 2
50 Count Up
-
VD 14
51 Prairie Steps HVD 4a ** 154
52 Wombling Wall E4 6a *** 12
53 Swingover E3 5c *** 12
54 Rampart Arete E2 5c * 2
55 Back Crack Corner MVS 4b 5
56 Fingers E1 5c  
57 Green Wall S 1
58 Do Knot
-
HVS 5a 10
59 Ramp
-
HVS 5a 5
60 Stubby Legs
-
VS 4c 4
61 Pillar
-
MVS 4b 23
62 Curving Cracks
-
HVS 5b 12
63 Jericho Wall
-
VD 20
64 Jumper
-
HVS 4c 1
65 Pullover
-
VS 4c 8
66 Heave Too E3 6b * 1
67 Turd in the Hole
-
HS 4b 6
  Joanna Area
69 Jeanette
-
S 2
70 Last Day
-
HVS 5a 18
71 Poison
-
S 4a * 52
72 Annudarufe
-
VS 4c 17
73 Annudarufe (central start) VS 5a 4
74 Arufe
-
MVS 4c * 36
75 Joanna
-
VS 5a *** 198
76 HMS Amethyst
-
S 4a ** 208
77 Tonup S 4a 2
78 Jammy
-
S 12
79 Brighton Baby E1 5a * 2
80 Twilight E1 5b 1
  Conch Area
82 No Top VS 4c 2
83 Dan Dan the Fighting Man
-
VS 4c 3
84 Half Crack
-
MVS 4b 7
85 To A Reckless Flash E4 6a 8
86 The Great Adventure HVS 5a 2
87 Missout
-
E1 5a 47
88 Agnostic's Arete
-
HS 4b ** 125
89 Ruf VS 5a 33
90 Conch HS 4b ** 294
91 Doodle
-
VS 5a 49
92 Tan
-
VD 105
93 In Between VS 5a 5
94 And
-
S 4a 94
95 Black
-
VD 107
96 Born Free
-
HS 4b 29
  'Bramble Crack'/'Last Edge' Area
98 Crucifix HVS 4c 4
99 Steel Monkey E1 5b 2
100 S.M.I.L.E E5 6a * 2
101 Matey's Crack VS 4c 5
102 Sabre Crack
-
MVS 4b 2
103 Chipper E3 5b * 3
104 Cool Trickster E5 5c ** 3
105 Congressman Dilbeck E6 6c ** 3
106 The Fin HVS 5a 4
107 Bramble Crack
-
VS 4c ** 82
108 Last Edge E5 6b *** 2
109 Sensational Exposure
-
M ** 26
110 Adam's Apple
-
HS 4b 1
111 Flake Crack
-
HS 4b 5
112 Dirty Shepherds in Bratford HS 4b 1
113 Cavern
-
VD 4
114 Yellow Way S 9
115 Layaway
-
VS 4c 13
  Box Quarry (Abandon all hope)
117 Cold Bum
-
S 1
118 Flake Corner HVS 5b 1
119 Ulley Right
-
VS 4c 1
120 Saw Off E2 5c 1
121 Spider
-
HVS 5a 3
122 Syrett's Crack E2 5c 1
  Left to Right main crag Continued
  Scar Buttress
125 Whillan's Arete
-
HVS 5a ** 68
126 Pea Pod
-
HS 4b 39
127 Adamski
-
MVS 4b 8
128 Layback Crack
-
VD 64
129 Promenade
-
M 37
130 Red Wall HVS 5c 1
131 Rocking Chimney
-
HVD 4a 18
132 Twin Cracks
-
S 4b 34
133 Paddy's Route
-
VS 4b 105
134 Gesticulation E4 6b 3
135 Fizzicle Fizzle E3 5c * 1
136 Scar Wall
-
E5 6b * 19
137 Scar E2 5b *** 209
138 The Flakes
-
E3 5c * 31
139 Intrepid E6 6a ** 11
140 Moria
-
E2 5c ** 88
141 Slit HVS 5b 5
142 Leeway HVS 5b 6
143 Big Curver
-
HVS 5b * 52
  Rip Buttress
145 Petrol Powered Garden Tools E1 5b * 5
146 Rip
-
HS 4a 115
  Epitaph / Hades Area to Right Hand End
148 Chimney
-
D 5
149 Pinnacle Flake
-
S 9
150 Ram
-
E1 5b * 36
151 Going for Oneness
-
E1 5b 4
152 Future Times
-
E1 5b 26
153 Epitaph
-
HS 4a ** 280
154 Epitaph Direct
-
VS 4b ** 162
155 Olley E3 5c 1
156 Hades
-
VS 4c *** 267
157 Anthrax E7 6b * 2
158 Quietus E4 6b * 1
159 Toss off
-
HVS 5a 17
160 Nude Groove
-
HVS 5a * 44
161 Pearly Gates
-
HS 4a 79
162 Pearly Gates (alternative finish) E1 5b 7
163 La Cathedralle (DANGER WARNING) VS 4c 5
164 Gold Rings VS 4c 6
165 Grot
-
S 5
166 Karen S 4
167 Karen Right Hand HVS 5a 2
  Bouldering
169 Blade Runner f7A *** 5
170 Armageddon
-
f7A+ ** 6
171 Who Are We Without Moon
-
f7A+ ** 8
172 Zena f7A+ 3
173 The Green Wing
-
f7B ** 12
174 The Mantle f6C ** 6
175 The Singing Postman f6C *  
176 Chips Original V0- 1
177 Epitaph Layaways V0- 5
178 Hades Start V0- 5
179 Huffin' and puffin' f7B **  
180 Problem 5 - Hades roof area V5 2
181 Armagedon reach around V5 6
182 Problem 14 - Hades roof area V0+ 2
183 Problem 8: Hades Roof Area V5 * 5
184 Hades Traverse Low V5 * 2
185 Lay away: boulder start V3 ** 6
186 Lay Away RH V4 * 4
187 Problem 16 - Hades roof area V3 2
188 Warm Up
-
f4 * 8
189 Slopey Traverse V5 2
190 Pod V0+ 1
191 Pod Arete V2 1
192 Pod Reach V4 1
193 Hand Crack f4 * 2
194 Slab and Roof f4 2
195 Block Wall f6B * 5
196 Block Wall Traverse f5+ ** 3
197 Central Route f5 ** 5
198 Rising Moon f6B 1
199 Pocket Jugs f5 * 10
200 Crispy Wall
-
f5+ 2
201 Crimp Wall
-
f5 2
202 Pocket
-
f5 2
203 Fresh Prince of Bail Aire f6B ** 1
204 Fresh Traverse f4 1
205 Flesh f6A+ * 1
206 Slopers f6C ** 5
207 Nude Groove start f6B+ * 3
208 Quaint Groove f6C *** 2
209 Halle Baildon f6C+ *** 2
210 Left Arete (Rhombic Block) f6A 2
211 Jug Problem f5 * 3
212 Wombling Edge f6B 2
213 Womble Pocket f5+ 2
214 Wave Arete f6C * 2
215 Grit Arete
-
f5 ** 1
216 the Oik
-
f6A+ ** 2
217 Heave One f6A 1
218 Bitter
-
f6B * 1
219 Refuse to Mambo
-
f7A **  
220 Underhere V5 1
221 Pocket Rock
-
V3 2
222 Jason's Traverse
-
V6 1
223 Left Edge f3 1
224 Right Edge f4 3
225 Low Right Edge f4+ 3
226 Pinch 32 V12 3
227 Fat Larry White
-
f7C * 2
228 Pinch 32 Stand f8A ** 3
229 Block Arete f6A+ 1
230 Suggy's Wall f7A ** 1
231 The Baildon Stem f6B * 1
232 Adi's Wall f7A * 1
  New Routes / Not Checked / Sorted
234 T'Empire Strikes Back E2 5c *  
235 Throw Another Sheep on the Fire
-
E7 6b *  
236 No Surrender
-
E8 7a **  

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