Climbs 306
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 200m a.s.l
Faces S

The classic Baildon experience. Matt on Whillan’s Arete (VS 4c), kids from local estate © Jamie Moss

Crag features

Baildon Bank, loved and hated by generations of climbers in equal measure, is a 'hard' sandstone quarried crag with occasional capping blocks of non-quarried gritstone. A wry sense of humour is a must for climbers partaking of its many delights, and with good reason: sensational routes with divine and majestic sequences do have a notoriety for turning into worrying Elvis-leg bonazas and games of that favourite local pastime 'throw hand-holds from the crag' are all too often unwittingly commenced. Saharan top-outs which shower would-be eagles with sand and dust also tend to add food for thought. However, let us not be mistaken, Baildon Bank provides some of the finest climbs in the local area. There is an even spread of grades, with lower to middle grade routes like Hades (VS) and Epitaph (HS) - both 20m - smashing many of the '100 Classic Climbs in Yorkshire and the Peak District' routes out of the water. As for the Extremes, many are as good as you are likely to find anywhere in Yorkshire. Okay, Almscliffe might not give you the spray paint vandalism, broken bottles, little urchins from the local estate hanging around and so forth, but hey, the pubs are a lot closer to the crag! While the Roaches have that air of Whillans and Brown, so too does Baildon Bank have the imprint of legend Ian Clough, follow in his footsteps... if his holds are still attached that is.



South facing, Baildon Bank is one of the warmest of West Yorkshire crags, and tends to remain fairly sheltered from strong winds. Back in the day someone thought it was a good idea to paint the numbers of the routes on the crag, then many were subsequently repainted with different numbers, these can prove extremely confusing to Baildon Bank rookies - try to ignore them, they tend to bear no relation to anything useful regardless of which Yorkshire Gritstone guide you are using.

Approach notes

2 minutes from the road. Park on Green Lane 200m after Cliffe Ave branches off. Easy to trundle along the crag picking lines. Except the bottom Quarry, which is overgrown and mostly hidden in the trees above the Cricketer's Arms (BD17 7NE) and the infamous Box Quarry which was last visited by Percy Harrison Fawcett during his search for Eldorado in the 1920s, needless to say, he did not return.

The quarry is pretty overgrown right now (apart from the approach to Triang/etc) but we've today beaten a path to and cleaned Viper and Scoop, both great routes. Go try them whilst they're clean-ish!
ebf - 23/Sep/17
One of Yorkshire Grit's best kept secrets.
Ewan Russell - 29/Jan/10
The bank is situated half way up a hill on the way to Baildon moor. You get there by taking a left at the pub (sorry can't remember the name) before you get into Baildon proper on the main road, then parking on the road below the crag. There's then a five minute walk up to the rock. The paths not too clear but it's pretty much opposite a playground. The banks not made of the best grit and in places it's just dangerous; on the right hand end (as you look at the crag) there are some really nice routes though. Well worth a stop on the way to Shipley glen.
djberry - 17/Mar/08
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Left to Right as of 2014 Guide
  Lower Quarry/ Anne of Cleaves / Cricketer's Quarry
3 Enterprise E2 6a 2
4 Hemispheres HVS 5b 1
5 Bipod MVS 4b 1
6 Carnival Carousel HVS 5a 1
7 Hergest Ridge E4 5c 4
8 Blinkers E5 6b 2
9 Futurama VS 4c 4
10 Anne of Cleaves E3 5c ** 11
11 Lightning HVS 5b 1
12 Desperado
-
E3 6a ** 2
13 Triang
-
HVS 5a * 24
14 Mandy Fly Me E2 5b * 11
15 Scoop E3 5c * 2
16 Viper
-
VS 4c * 14
17 Adder Finish E2 5c 1
18 V Route
-
S 1
19 Lost Gold HVS 5a 4
20 Cleanstone Wall
-
E1 5c * 6
21 Cleanstone Crack VD 1
22 Arkansas
-
S 2
23 Diff D 5
24 Chat S 1
25 Blockhead
-
VD 5
26 Descent Route M 5
27 Yob Society
-
HVS 5a  
28 J.R. Special
-
E6 6c *  
29 Patsy Stone
-
E3 6a  
30 Playtex
-
E5 6a  
31 Cripple's Revenge
-
E6 6c  
32 Insomnia Beckons
-
E6 6b *  
33 Barred for Life
-
E4 6a **  
34 Gentle Persuasion
-
E4 6a  
35 Live and Let Pie
-
E6 6b **  
36 Scythe Man
-
E5 6a  
37 Cobra Groove
-
E6 6c *  
38 Anniversary Arete
-
E4 6a  
39 Iain's Swansong
-
E6 6b *  
40 Fly Groove
-
E2 5c  
41 Coming Corner
-
HS 4b  
42 Green Border
-
VS 4c  
  Satire Area
44 Satire
-
E2 5b *** 16
45 Cavern Route S 4a * 2
46 Podge's Wall
-
E3 5c **  
47 Slipup
-
E3 6a *  
  Coronation Street Area
49 Waredusitgo VS 4c 1
50 Cracker
-
HS 4a 4
51 Camera Shake HVS 5b 2
52 Broken Off
-
VD 10
53 The Blob
-
D 3
54 Bygones
-
VD 10
55 South Wall HVS 5c 1
56 Mash
-
S 5
57 All Fall Down
-
S 4a 2
58 Coronation Street
-
S 4a * 26
59 Up and Over VS 4c 2
60 Monkey Puzzle
-
VS 4c 9
61 Monkey Puzzle Left Hand Finish
-
HS 4b 2
62 Knut
-
VS 4c  
63 Corner none  
64 Balless Jess
-
MVS 4b  
65 Africa
-
E1 5b  
  Zone 3
67 Halstead Road S 4a 2
  Upper Quarry (Right of Steps)
69 Bee Sting HVS 5a 6
70 Localmotion E1 5b * 3
71 Banana Groove S 4
72 Quaint Rock Wall
-
S 4a 6
73 Hotch Crack
-
D 4
74 Potch Wall
-
VS 4b 2
75 Count Up
-
VD 16
76 Prairie Steps HVD 4a ** 168
77 Wombling Wall E4 6a *** 12
78 Swingover E3 5c *** 14
79 Rampart Arete E2 5c * 2
80 Back Crack Corner MVS 4b 5
81 Fingers E1 5c  
82 Green Wall S 1
83 Do Knot
-
HVS 5a 12
84 Ramp
-
HVS 5a 6
85 Stubby Legs
-
VS 4c 4
86 Pillar
-
MVS 4b 27
87 Curving Cracks
-
HVS 5b 13
88 Jericho Wall
-
VD 22
89 Jumper
-
HVS 4c 2
90 Pullover
-
VS 4c 9
91 Heave Too E3 6b * 1
92 Turd in the Hole
-
HS 4b 9
93 Chimney Route
-
S  
94 Armageddon (Outahere)
-
E6 6c ***  
95 Smear Fear
-
E5 6a  
  Joanna Area
97 Jeanette
-
S 2
98 Last Day
-
HVS 5a 18
99 Poison
-
S 4a * 53
100 Annudarufe
-
VS 4c 18
101 Annudarufe (central start) VS 5a 5
102 Arufe
-
MVS 4c * 40
103 Joanna
-
VS 5a *** 219
104 HMS Amethyst
-
S 4a ** 223
105 Tonup S 4a 2
106 Jammy
-
S 14
107 Brighton Baby E1 5a * 2
108 Twilight E1 5b 1
Climb name Grade
109 Rawhide
-
E5 6b  
110 Best Forgotten
-
MVS 4b  
  Conch Area
112 No Top VS 4c 2
113 Dan Dan the Fighting Man
-
VS 4c 5
114 Half Crack
-
MVS 4b 8
115 To A Reckless Flash E4 6a 9
116 The Great Adventure HVS 5a 2
117 Missout
-
E1 5a 51
118 Agnostic's Arete
-
HS 4b ** 145
119 Ruf VS 5a 37
120 Conch HS 4b ** 321
121 Doodle
-
VS 5a 50
122 Tan
-
VD 115
123 In Between VS 5a 9
124 And
-
S 4a 99
125 Black
-
VD 112
126 Born Free
-
HS 4b 33
127 Ego
-
VD 5b  
128 Agoa
-
VS 5a  
  'Bramble Crack'/'Last Edge' Area
130 Crucifix HVS 4c 4
131 Steel Monkey E1 5b 2
132 S.M.I.L.E E5 6a * 2
133 Matey's Crack VS 4c 5
134 Sabre Crack
-
MVS 4b 2
135 Chipper E3 5b * 4
136 Cool Trickster E5 5c ** 3
137 Congressman Dilbeck E6 6c ** 3
138 The Fin HVS 5a 5
139 Bramble Crack
-
VS 4c ** 88
140 Last Edge E5 6b *** 2
141 Sensational Exposure
-
M ** 28
142 Adam's Apple
-
HS 4b 1
143 Flake Crack
-
HS 4b 5
144 Dirty Shepherds in Bratford HS 4b 1
145 Cavern
-
VD 4
146 Yellow Way S 9
147 Layaway
-
VS 4c 13
148 Agame
-
E5 6b  
149 Path for an Evil Soul
-
E6 6b  
150 Surface Tension
-
E6 6b *  
151 Zola Budd
-
E6 6c **  
152 Eternal Peace
-
E4 6a  
  Box Quarry (Abandon all hope)
154 Timex
-
A1  
155 Overtime Wall
-
HVS 5b  
156 Cold Bum
-
S 1
157 Flake Corner HVS 5b 1
158 Ulley Right
-
VS 4c 1
159 Saw Off E2 5c 1
160 Spider
-
HVS 5a 3
161 Syrett's Crack E2 5c 1
162 Tiles
-
S  
163 Hirst Wale
-
VS 5a  
164 Hawthorn
-
HVS 5a  
165 Cleo
-
E4 6b  
166 Ulley Left
-
HVS 5b  
167 Cream Legs
-
VS 4b  
168 Drop Out
-
VS 4c  
169 Green Arete
-
E4 5c  
170 Flake Wall
-
E1 5b  
171 Sometime
-
VS 4c  
172 Hidden Corner
-
S  
173 Wet Wall
-
HVS 5b  
174 Time
-
HVS 5a  
175 The Arch
-
HVS 5a  
176 Depegomania
-
HVS 5a  
177 Push Off
-
VS 4c  
178 Iain's Bolt Route
-
A1  
179 The Boxer
-
E3 5c  
  Left to Right main crag Continued
  Scar Buttress
182 Whillan's Arete
-
HVS 5a ** 79
183 Pea Pod
-
HS 4b 40
184 Adamski
-
MVS 4b 8
185 Layback Crack
-
VD 66
186 Promenade
-
M 45
187 Red Wall HVS 5c 1
188 Rocking Chimney
-
HVD 4a 18
189 Twin Cracks
-
S 4b 35
190 Paddy's Route
-
VS 4b 115
191 Gesticulation E4 6b 3
192 Fizzicle Fizzle E3 5c * 1
193 Scar Wall
-
E5 6b * 23
194 Scar E2 5b *** 228
195 The Flakes
-
E3 5c * 35
196 Intrepid E6 6a ** 14
197 Moria
-
E2 5c ** 95
198 Slit HVS 5b 5
199 Leeway HVS 5b 6
200 Big Curver
-
HVS 5b * 57
201 No Pegs Please We're British
-
E1 5b  
202 Scar Arete
-
E6 6c **  
203 Solomon's Diedre
-
HVS 5a  
204 Throw Another Sheep on the Fire
-
E7 6b *  
  Rip Buttress
206 Petrol Powered Garden Tools E1 5b * 5
207 Rip
-
HS 4a 125
208 Van Winkle
-
E6 6b  
209 Bronx
-
E6 6c  
210 Theakstone Man
-
HS 4a  
211 No Surrender
-
E8 7a **  
212 Dave's Crack
-
VS 4a  
  Epitaph / Hades Area to Right Hand End
214 Chimney
-
D 5
215 Pinnacle Flake
-
S 9
216 Ram
-
E1 5b * 41
Climb name Grade
217 Going for Oneness
-
E1 5b 6
218 Future Times
-
E1 5b 29
219 Epitaph
-
HS 4a ** 302
220 Epitaph Direct
-
VS 4b ** 178
221 Olley E3 5c 1
222 Hades
-
VS 4c *** 291
223 Anthrax E7 6b * 1
224 Quietus E4 6b * 2
225 Toss off
-
HVS 5a 19
226 Nude Groove
-
HVS 5a * 46
227 Pearly Gates
-
HS 4a 81
228 Pearly Gates (alternative finish) E1 5b 7
229 La Cathedralle (DANGER WARNING) VS 4c 5
230 Gold Rings VS 4c 7
231 Grot
-
S 5
232 Karen S 4
233 Karen Right Hand HVS 5a 2
234 Feel the Buzz
-
E1 6a  
235 Bamboozle Bottom
-
VS 4c  
236 Geeta Nob Out
-
VS 4b  
237 The Sunday Lunch Mob
-
E5 6c  
238 Stretcher
-
E2 5c  
239 Stretch
-
E1 5b  
240 Stretched
-
E1 5b  
  Bouldering (vaguely alphabetical)
242 Adi's Wall f7A * 5
243 Armageddon
-
f7A+ ** 7
244 Armagedon reach around V5 8
245 Armistice
-
V9 1
246 The Baildon Stem f6B * 3
247 Birkett's Traverse
-
V8 1
248 Bitter
-
f6B * 2
249 Blade Runner f7A *** 8
250 Block Wall f6B * 6
251 Block Wall Traverse f5+ ** 3
252 Block Arete f6A+ 3
253 Central Route f5 ** 7
254 Chips Original V0- 1
255 Crimp Wall
-
f5 3
256 Crispy Wall
-
f5+ 2
257 Epitaph Layaways V0- 5
258 Fat Larry White
-
f7C * 3
259 Flesh f6A+ * 1
260 Fresh Prince of Bail Aire f6B ** 1
261 Fresh Traverse f4 1
262 Green Day f6A * 1
263 The Green Wing
-
f7B ** 16
264 Grit Arete
-
f5 ** 3
265 Hades Start V0- 5
266 Hades Traverse Low V5 * 2
267 Halle Baildon f6C+ *** 3
268 Hand Crack f4 * 4
269 Heave One f6A 1
270 Huffin' and puffin' f7B **  
271 Jason's Reverse
-
V6 1
272 Jason's Traverse
-
V6 2
273 JD's Problem
-
V9 1
274 Jug Problem f5 * 4
275 Lay away: boulder start V3 ** 6
276 Lay Away RH V4 * 4
277 Left Arete (Rhombic Block) f6A 4
278 Left Edge f3 1
279 Low Right Edge f4+ 3
280 The Mantle f6C ** 9
281 Nude Groove start f6B+ * 5
282 the Oik
-
f6A+ ** 3
283 Pinch 32 V12 3
284 Pinch 32 Stand f8A ** 5
285 Pocket
-
f5 4
286 Pocket Jugs f5 * 11
287 Pocket Rock
-
V3 3
288 Pod V0+ 1
289 Pod Arete V2 1
290 Pod Reach V4 1
291 Problem 16 - Hades roof area V3 2
292 Problem 8: Hades Roof Area V5 * 5
293 Problem 5 - Hades roof area V5 2
294 Problem 14 - Hades roof area V0+ 2
295 Quaint Groove f6C *** 5
296 Refuse to Mambo
-
f7A ** 3
297 Renaissance
-
V8+ 1
298 Right Edge f4 3
299 Rising Moon f6B 1
300 The Singing Postman f6C *  
301 Slab and Roof f4 3
302 Slopey Traverse V5 2
303 Slopers f6C ** 14
304 Snap, Crackle and Pop
-
V8 1
305 Steve's Wall V7 1
306 Suggy's Wall f7A ** 3
307 Suggy's Wall Direct V6 1
308 Sutty's Start V6 1
309 Sutty's Traverse V7 1
310 Sutty's Wall V8 1
311 Underhere V5 2
312 Van Winkle Direct Start
-
V8+ 1
313 Xmas Tree Wall
-
f5+ 1
314 Warm Up
-
f4 * 11
315 Wave Arete f6C * 2
316 Who Are We Without Moon
-
f7A+ ** 12
317 Who are We Without Moon SS
-
f7B 3
318 Womble Pocket f5+ 2
319 Wombling Edge f6B 2
320 Zena f7A+ 3
  New Routes / Not Checked / Sorted
322 T'Empire Strikes Back E2 5c *  

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