Climbs 333
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 200m a.s.l
Faces S

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The classic Baildon experience. Matt on Whillan’s Arete (VS 4c), kids from local estate © Jamie Moss

Crag features

Baildon Bank, loved and hated by generations of climbers in equal measure, is a 'hard' sandstone quarried crag with occasional capping blocks of non-quarried gritstone. A wry sense of humour is a must for climbers partaking of its many delights, and with good reason: sensational routes with divine and majestic sequences do have a notoriety for turning into worrying Elvis-leg bonazas and games of that favourite local pastime 'throw hand-holds from the crag' are all too often unwittingly commenced. Saharan top-outs which shower would-be eagles with sand and dust also tend to add food for thought. However, let us not be mistaken, Baildon Bank provides some of the finest climbs in the local area. There is an even spread of grades, with lower to middle grade routes like Hades (VS) and Epitaph (HS) - both 20m - smashing many of the '100 Classic Climbs in Yorkshire and the Peak District' routes out of the water. As for the Extremes, many are as good as you are likely to find anywhere in Yorkshire. Okay, Almscliffe might not give you the spray paint vandalism, broken bottles, little urchins from the local estate hanging around and so forth, but hey, the pubs are a lot closer to the crag! While the Roaches have that air of Whillans and Brown, so too does Baildon Bank have the imprint of legend Ian Clough, follow in his footsteps... if his holds are still attached that is.



South facing, Baildon Bank is one of the warmest of West Yorkshire crags, and tends to remain fairly sheltered from strong winds. Back in the day someone thought it was a good idea to paint the numbers of the routes on the crag, then many were subsequently repainted with different numbers, these can prove extremely confusing to Baildon Bank rookies - try to ignore them, they tend to bear no relation to anything useful regardless of which Yorkshire Gritstone guide you are using.

Approach notes

2 minutes from the road. Park on Green Lane 200m after Cliffe Ave branches off. Easy to trundle along the crag picking lines. Except the bottom Quarry, which is overgrown and mostly hidden in the trees above the Cricketer's Arms (BD17 7NE) and the infamous Box Quarry which was last visited by Percy Harrison Fawcett during his search for Eldorado in the 1920s, needless to say, he did not return.

The quarry is pretty overgrown right now (apart from the approach to Triang/etc) but we've today beaten a path to and cleaned Viper and Scoop, both great routes. Go try them whilst they're clean-ish!
ebf - 23/Sep/17
One of Yorkshire Grit's best kept secrets.
Ewan Russell - 29/Jan/10
The bank is situated half way up a hill on the way to Baildon moor. You get there by taking a left at the pub (sorry can't remember the name) before you get into Baildon proper on the main road, then parking on the road below the crag. There's then a five minute walk up to the rock. The paths not too clear but it's pretty much opposite a playground. The banks not made of the best grit and in places it's just dangerous; on the right hand end (as you look at the crag) there are some really nice routes though. Well worth a stop on the way to Shipley glen.
djberry - 17/Mar/08
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Left to Right as of 2014 Guide
  Lower Quarry/ Anne of Cleaves / Cricketer's Quarry
3 Enterprise E2 6a 2
4 Hemispheres HVS 5b 1
5 Bipod MVS 4b 1
6 Carnival Carousel HVS 5a 1
7 Hergest Ridge E4 5c 4
8 Blinkers E5 6b 2
9 Futurama VS 4c 4
10 Anne of Cleaves E3 5c ** 11
11 Lightning HVS 5b 1
12 Desperado
-
E3 6a ** 2
13 Triang
-
HVS 5a * 24
14 Mandy Fly Me E2 5b * 11
15 Scoop E3 5c * 2
16 Viper
-
VS 4c * 14
17 Adder Finish E2 5c 1
18 V Route
-
S 1
19 Lost Gold HVS 5a 4
20 Cleanstone Wall
-
E1 5c * 7
21 Cleanstone Crack VD 1
22 Arkansas
-
S 2
23 Diff D 5
24 Chat S 1
25 Blockhead
-
VD 5
26 Descent Route M 5
27 Yob Society
-
HVS 5a  
28 J.R. Special
-
E6 6c *  
29 Patsy Stone
-
E3 6a  
30 Playtex
-
E5 6a  
31 Cripple's Revenge
-
E6 6c  
32 Insomnia Beckons
-
E6 6b *  
33 Barred for Life
-
E4 6a **  
34 Gentle Persuasion
-
E4 6a  
35 Live and Let Pie
-
E6 6b **  
36 Scythe Man
-
E5 6a  
37 Cobra Groove
-
E6 6c *  
38 Anniversary Arete
-
E4 6a  
39 Iain's Swansong
-
E6 6b *  
40 Fly Groove
-
E2 5c  
41 Coming Corner
-
HS 4b  
42 Green Border
-
VS 4c  
  Satire Area
44 Satire
-
E2 5b *** 18
45 Cavern Route S 4a * 2
46 Podge's Wall
-
E3 5c **  
47 Slipup
-
E3 6a *  
  Coronation Street Area
49 Waredusitgo VS 4c 1
50 Cracker
-
HS 4a 4
51 Camera Shake HVS 5b 2
52 Broken Off
-
VD 10
53 The Blob
-
D 3
54 Bygones
-
VD 10
55 South Wall HVS 5c 1
56 Mash
-
S 5
57 All Fall Down
-
S 4a 2
58 Coronation Street
-
S 4a * 27
59 Up and Over VS 4c 2
60 Monkey Puzzle
-
VS 4c 9
61 Monkey Puzzle Left Hand Finish
-
HS 4b 2
62 Knut
-
VS 4c  
63 Corner none 1
64 Balless Jess
-
MVS 4b  
65 Africa
-
E1 5b 1
66 No Colours
-
f4 1
  Zone 3
68 Halstead Road S 4a 2
  Upper Quarry (Right of Steps)
70 Bee Sting HVS 5a 6
71 Localmotion E1 5b * 3
72 Banana Groove S 5
73 Quaint Rock Wall
-
S 4a 6
74 Hotch Crack
-
D 4
75 Potch Wall
-
VS 4b 2
76 Count Up
-
VD 17
77 Prairie Steps HVD 4a ** 181
78 Wombling Wall E4 6a *** 14
79 Swingover E3 5c *** 14
80 Rampart Arete E2 5c * 2
81 Back Crack Corner MVS 4b 5
82 Fingers E1 5c  
83 Green Wall S 1
84 Do Knot
-
HVS 5a 12
85 Ramp
-
HVS 5a 6
86 Stubby Legs
-
VS 4c 4
87 Pillar
-
MVS 4b 31
88 Curving Cracks
-
HVS 5b 13
89 Jericho Wall
-
VD 22
90 Jumper
-
HVS 4c 2
91 Pullover
-
VS 4c 11
92 Heave Too E3 6b * 1
93 Turd in the Hole
-
HS 4b 10
94 Chimney Route
-
S  
95 Armageddon (Outahere)
-
E6 6c ***  
96 Smear Fear
-
E5 6a  
  Joanna Area
98 Jeanette
-
S 2
99 Last Day
-
HVS 5a 18
100 Poison
-
S 4a * 54
101 Annudarufe
-
VS 4c 19
102 Annudarufe (central start) VS 5a 5
103 Arufe
-
MVS 4c * 40
104 Joanna
-
VS 5a *** 242
105 HMS Amethyst
-
S 4a ** 242
106 Tonup S 4a 3
107 Jammy
-
S 17
108 Brighton Baby E1 5a * 2
109 Twilight E1 5b 1
110 Rawhide
-
E5 6b  
111 Best Forgotten
-
MVS 4b  
  Conch Area
113 No Top VS 4c 2
114 Dan Dan the Fighting Man
-
VS 4c 5
115 Half Crack
-
MVS 4b 8
116 To A Reckless Flash E4 6a 10
117 The Great Adventure HVS 5a 2
Climb name Grade
118 Missout
-
E1 5a 53
119 Agnostic's Arete
-
HS 4b ** 166
120 Ruf VS 5a 38
121 Conch HS 4b ** 346
122 Doodle
-
VS 5a 52
123 Tan
-
VD 118
124 In Between VS 5a 12
125 And
-
S 4a 104
126 Black
-
VD 115
127 Born Free
-
HS 4b 35
128 Ego
-
VD 5b  
129 Agoa
-
VS 5a  
  'Bramble Crack'/'Last Edge' Area
131 Crucifix HVS 4c 4
132 Steel Monkey E1 5b 2
133 S.M.I.L.E E5 6a * 2
134 Matey's Crack VS 4c 5
135 Sabre Crack
-
MVS 4b 2
136 Chipper E3 5b * 5
137 Cool Trickster E5 5c ** 3
138 Congressman Dilbeck E6 6c ** 3
139 The Fin HVS 5a 5
140 Bramble Crack
-
VS 4c ** 95
141 Last Edge E5 6b *** 2
142 Sensational Exposure
-
M ** 29
143 Adam's Apple
-
HS 4b 1
144 Flake Crack
-
HS 4b 5
145 Dirty Shepherds in Bratford HS 4b 1
146 Cavern
-
VD 4
147 Yellow Way S 9
148 Layaway
-
VS 4c 13
149 Agame
-
E5 6b  
150 Path for an Evil Soul
-
E6 6b  
151 Surface Tension
-
E6 6b *  
152 Zola Budd
-
E6 6c **  
153 Eternal Peace
-
E4 6a  
  Box Quarry (Abandon all hope)
155 Timex
-
A1  
156 Overtime Wall
-
HVS 5b  
157 Cold Bum
-
S 1
158 Flake Corner HVS 5b 1
159 Ulley Right
-
VS 4c 1
160 Saw Off E2 5c 1
161 Spider
-
HVS 5a 3
162 Syrett's Crack E2 5c 2
163 Tiles
-
S  
164 Hirst Wale
-
VS 5a  
165 Hawthorn
-
HVS 5a  
166 Cleo
-
E4 6b  
167 Ulley Left
-
HVS 5b  
168 Cream Legs
-
VS 4b  
169 Drop Out
-
VS 4c  
170 Green Arete
-
E4 5c  
171 Flake Wall
-
E1 5b  
172 Sometime
-
VS 4c  
173 Hidden Corner
-
S  
174 Wet Wall
-
HVS 5b  
175 Time
-
HVS 5a  
176 The Arch
-
HVS 5a  
177 Depegomania
-
HVS 5a  
178 Push Off
-
VS 4c  
179 Iain's Bolt Route
-
A1  
180 The Boxer
-
E3 5c  
  Left to Right main crag Continued
  Scar Buttress
183 Whillan's Arete
-
HVS 5a ** 84
184 Pea Pod
-
HS 4b 42
185 Adamski
-
MVS 4b 9
186 Layback Crack
-
VD 69
187 Promenade
-
M 47
188 Red Wall HVS 5c 1
189 Rocking Chimney
-
HVD 4a 19
190 Twin Cracks
-
S 4b 37
191 Paddy's Route
-
VS 4b 125
192 Gesticulation E4 6b 4
193 Fizzicle Fizzle E3 5c * 1
194 Scar Wall
-
E5 6b * 26
195 Scar E2 5b *** 245
196 The Flakes
-
E3 5c * 36
197 Intrepid E6 6a ** 18
198 Moria
-
E2 5c ** 104
199 Slit HVS 5b 6
200 Leeway HVS 5b 6
201 Big Curver
-
HVS 5b * 61
202 No Pegs Please We're British
-
E1 5b  
203 Scar Arete
-
E6 6c **  
204 Solomon's Diedre
-
HVS 5a  
205 Throw Another Sheep on the Fire
-
E7 6b *  
  Rip Buttress
207 Petrol Powered Garden Tools E1 5b * 6
208 Rip
-
HS 4a 135
209 Van Winkle
-
E6 6b  
210 Bronx
-
E6 6c  
211 Theakstone Man
-
HS 4a  
212 No Surrender
-
E8 7a **  
213 Dave's Crack
-
VS 4a  
  Epitaph / Hades Area to Right Hand End
215 Chimney
-
D 5
216 Pinnacle Flake
-
S 9
217 Ram
-
E1 5b * 42
218 Going for Oneness
-
E1 5b 6
219 Future Times
-
E1 5b 30
220 Epitaph
-
HS 4a ** 321
221 Epitaph Direct
-
VS 4b ** 193
222 Olley E3 5c 1
223 Hades
-
VS 4c *** 308
224 Anthrax E7 6b * 1
225 Quietus E4 6b * 2
226 Toss off
-
HVS 5a 19
227 Nude Groove
-
HVS 5a * 48
228 Pearly Gates
-
HS 4a 82
229 Pearly Gates (alternative finish) E1 5b 7
230 La Cathedralle (DANGER WARNING) VS 4c 5
231 Gold Rings VS 4c 7
232 Grot
-
S 5
233 Karen S 4
234 Karen Right Hand HVS 5a 2
Climb name Grade
235 Feel the Buzz
-
E1 6a  
236 Bamboozle Bottom
-
VS 4c  
237 Geeta Nob Out
-
VS 4b  
238 The Sunday Lunch Mob
-
E5 6c  
239 Stretcher
-
E2 5c  
240 Stretch
-
E1 5b  
241 Stretched
-
E1 5b  
  Bouldering (vaguely alphabetical incl. Unknown Stones routes)
243 A&E f6C 1
244 Adi's Wall f7A * 5
245 Apocalypse Meow
-
f6A 4
246 Armageddon
-
f7A+ ** 10
247 Armistice
-
V9 2
248 The Baildon Stem f6B * 5
249 Big Bill’s Mantel f6B 1
250 Birkett's Traverse
-
V8 1
251 Bitter
-
f6B * 2
252 Blade Runner f7A *** 8
253 Block Wall f6B * 7
254 Block Wall Traverse f5+ ** 3
255 Block Arete f6A+ 4
256 Central Route f5 ** 7
257 Chips Original V0- 1
258 Cowboys f6A 1
259 Crimp Wall
-
f5 5
260 Crimpy traverse f6A+ 1
261 Crispy Wall
-
f5+ 3
262 The Deadliest Catch V8  
263 Don the beard f5+ 1
264 Double Team V6 2
265 Dr Statham f6A 1
266 Easy grove f3 2
267 Epitaph Layaways V0- 6
268 Fat Larry White
-
f7C * 3
269 Flesh f6A+ * 1
270 The French Way V6 1
271 Fresh Prince of Bail Aire f6B ** 1
272 Fresh Traverse f4 1
273 Green Day f6A * 1
274 The Green Wing
-
f7B ** 19
275 Grit Arete
-
f5 ** 3
276 Hades Start V0- 5
277 Hades Traverse Low V5 * 2
278 Halle Baildon f6C+ *** 4
279 Hand Crack f4 * 4
280 Heave One f6A 1
281 Hoodie f4 2
282 Huffin' and puffin' f7B **  
283 Insurgency V6  
284 Jason's Reverse
-
V6 1
285 Jason's Traverse
-
V6 2
286 JD's Problem
-
V9 2
287 Jug Problem f5 * 6
288 Lay away: boulder start V3 ** 6
289 Lay Away RH V4 * 5
290 Left Arete (Rhombic Block) f6A 5
291 Left Edge f3 1
292 Lost Chippy
-
f4+ 1
293 Low Right Edge f4+ 3
294 The Mantle f6C ** 10
295 Nasty Little Lonely V6 1
296 Nude Groove start f6B+ * 5
297 the Oik
-
f6A+ ** 3
298 Paint It Black
-
f5+ 1
299 Pinch 32 V12 5
300 Pinch 32 Stand f8A ** 8
301 Pocket
-
f5 5
302 Pocket Jugs f5 * 12
303 Pocket Rock
-
V3 4
304 Pod V0+ 3
305 Pod Arete V2 2
306 Pod Reach V4 3
307 Problem 16 - Hades roof area V3 3
308 Problem 8: Hades Roof Area V5 * 5
309 Problem 5 - Hades roof area V5 2
310 Problem 14 - Hades roof area V0+ 2
311 Pullover f5 1
312 Quaint Groove f6C *** 5
313 Refuse to Mambo
-
f7A ** 3
314 Renaissance
-
V8+ 1
315 Right Edge f4 3
316 Rising Moon f6B 1
317 Rollin' Rollin' Rollin' f6B 2
318 Rowdy f6C+ 1
319 Scar buttress passage left f4+ 2
320 Ska f6A 2
321 The Shot V6  
322 The Singing Postman f6C *  
323 Slab and Roof f4 3
324 Slopey Traverse V5 3
325 Slopers f6C ** 15
326 Snap, Crackle and Pop
-
V8 1
327 Soixante neuf f4 1
328 Steve's Wall V7 1
329 Suggy's Wall f7A ** 3
330 Suggy's Wall Direct V6 1
331 Sutty's Start V6 1
332 Sutty's Traverse V7 1
333 Sutty's Wall V8 1
334 Underhere V5 14
335 Van Winkle Direct Start
-
V8+ 1
336 Vest f4 2
337 Xmas Tree Wall
-
f5+ 1
338 Warm Up
-
f4 * 13
339 Wave Arete f6C * 2
340 Who Are We Without Moon
-
f7A+ ** 19
341 Who are We Without Moon SS
-
f7B 4
342 Womble Pocket f5+ 2
343 Wombling Edge f6B 2
344 Ying and yang f5+ 1
345 Zena f7A+ 3
  New Routes / Not Checked / Sorted
347 T'Empire Strikes Back E2 5c *  
348 Pariah HVS 5a 1
349 Pariah Eliminate E3 5c 1

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