Climbs 215
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 200m a.s.l
Faces S

The classic Baildon experience. Matt on Whillan’s Arete (VS 4c), kids from local estate © Jamie Moss

Crag features

Baildon Bank, loved and hated by generations of climbers in equal measure, is a 'hard' sandstone quarried crag with occasional capping blocks of non-quarried gritstone. A wry sense of humour is a must for climbers partaking of its many delights, and with good reason: sensational routes with divine and majestic sequences do have a notoriety for turning into worrying Elvis-leg bonazas and games of that favourite local pastime 'throw hand-holds from the crag' are all too often unwittingly commenced. Saharan top-outs which shower would-be eagles with sand and dust also tend to add food for thought. However, let us not be mistaken, Baildon Bank provides some of the finest climbs in the local area. There is an even spread of grades, with lower to middle grade routes like Hades (VS) and Epitaph (HS) - both 20m - smashing many of the '100 Classic Climbs in Yorkshire and the Peak District' routes out of the water. As for the Extremes, many are as good as you are likely to find anywhere in Yorkshire. Okay, Almscliffe might not give you the spray paint vandalism, broken bottles, little urchins from the local estate hanging around and so forth, but hey, the pubs are a lot closer to the crag! While the Roaches have that air of Whillans and Brown, so too does Baildon Bank have the imprint of legend Ian Clough, follow in his footsteps... if his holds are still attached that is.

South facing, Baildon Bank is one of the warmest of West Yorkshire crags, and tends to remain fairly sheltered from strong winds. Back in the day someone thought it was a good idea to paint the numbers of the routes on the crag, then many were subsequently repainted with different numbers, these can prove extremely confusing to Baildon Bank rookies - try to ignore them, they tend to bear no relation to anything useful regardless of which Yorkshire Gritstone guide you are using.

Approach notes

2 minutes from the road. Park on Green Lane 200m after Cliffe Ave branches off. Easy to trundle along the crag picking lines. Except the bottom Quarry, which is overgrown and mostly hidden in the trees above the Cricketer's Arms (BD17 7NE) and the infamous Box Quarry which was last visited by Percy Harrison Fawcett during his search for Eldorado in the 1920s, needless to say, he did not return.

One of Yorkshire Grit's best kept secrets.
Ewan Russell - 29/Jan/10
The bank is situated half way up a hill on the way to Baildon moor. You get there by taking a left at the pub (sorry can't remember the name) before you get into Baildon proper on the main road, then parking on the road below the crag. There's then a five minute walk up to the rock. The paths not too clear but it's pretty much opposite a playground. The banks not made of the best grit and in places it's just dangerous; on the right hand end (as you look at the crag) there are some really nice routes though. Well worth a stop on the way to Shipley glen.
djberry - 17/Mar/08
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Left to Right as of 2014 Guide 
 Lower Quarry/ Anne of Cleaves / Cricketer's Quarry 
3EnterpriseE2 6a 1
4HemispheresHVS 5b 1
5BipodMVS 4b 1
6Carnival CarouselHVS 5a 1
7Hergest RidgeE4 5c 3
8BlinkersE5 6b 2
9FuturamaVS 4c 3
10Anne of CleavesE3 5c **10
11LightningHVS 5b 1
12Desperado
-
E3 6a **2
13Triang
-
HVS 5a *22
14Mandy Fly MeE2 5b *11
15Viper
-
VS 4c *13
16Adder FinishE2 5c 1
17V Route
-
S 1
18Lost GoldHVS 5a 4
19Cleanstone Wall
-
E1 5c *5
20Cleanstone CrackVD 1
21Arkansas
-
S 2
22DiffD 4
23ChatS 1
24Blockhead
-
VD 5
25Descent RouteM 5
 Satire Area 
27Satire
-
E2 5b ***16
28Cavern RouteS 4a *2
 Coronation Street Area 
30WaredusitgoVS 4c 1
31Cracker
-
HS 4a 4
32Camera ShakeHVS 5b 2
33Broken Off
-
VD 10
34The Blob
-
D 3
35Bygones
-
VD 10
36South WallHVS 5c 1
37Mash
-
S 5
38All Fall Down
-
S 4a 2
39Coronation Street
-
S 4a *25
40Up and OverVS 4c 2
41Monkey Puzzle
-
VS 4c 9
42Monkey Puzzle Left Hand Finish
-
HS 4b 2
 Upper Quarry (Right of Steps) 
44Bee StingHVS 5a 5
45Banana GrooveS 4
46Quaint Rock Wall
-
S 4a 6
47Hotch Crack
-
D 4
48Potch Wall
-
VS 4b 2
49Count Up
-
VD 14
50Prairie StepsHVD 4a **156
51Wombling WallE4 6a ***12
52SwingoverE3 5c ***16
53Rampart AreteE2 5c *2
54Back Crack CornerMVS 4b 5
55FingersE1 5c  
56Green WallS 1
57Do Knot
-
HVS 5a 8
58Ramp
-
HVS 5a 5
59Stubby Legs
-
VS 4c 4
60Pillar
-
MVS 4b 22
61Curving Cracks
-
HVS 5b 12
62Jericho Wall
-
VD 20
63Jumper
-
HVS 4c 1
64Pullover
-
VS 4c 5
65Heave TooE3 6b *1
66Turd in the Hole
-
HS 4b 4
 Joanna Area 
68Jeanette
-
S 2
69Last Day
-
HVS 5a 13
70Poison
-
S 4a *48
71Annudarufe
-
VS 4c 14
72Annudarufe (central start)VS 5a 3
73Arufe
-
MVS 4c *33
74Joanna
-
VS 5a ***190
75HMS Amethyst
-
S 4a **194
76TonupS 4a 1
77Jammy
-
S 11
78Brighton BabyE1 5a *2
 Conch Area 
80No TopVS 4c 2
81Dan Dan the Fighting Man
-
VS 4c 2
82Half Crack
-
MVS 4b 7
83To A Reckless FlashE4 6a 9
84Missout
-
E1 5a 46
85Agnostic's Arete
-
HS 4b **117
86RufVS 5a 31
87ConchHS 4b **284
88Doodle
-
VS 5a 48
89Tan
-
VD 104
90In BetweenVS 5a 5
91And
-
S 4a 94
92Black
-
VD 107
93Born Free
-
HS 4b 29
 'Bramble Crack'/'Last Edge' Area 
95CrucifixHVS 4c 4
96Steel MonkeyE1 5b 2
97S.M.I.L.EE5 6a *2
98Matey's CrackVS 4c 5
99Sabre Crack
-
MVS 4b 2
100ChipperE3 5b *3
101Cool TricksterE5 5c **3
102Congressman DilbeckE6 6c **3
103The FinHVS 5a 4
104Bramble Crack
-
VS 4c **86
105Last EdgeE5 6b ***2
106Sensational Exposure
-
M **25
107Adam's Apple
-
HS 4b 1
108Flake Crack
-
HS 4b 4
109Cavern
-
VD 4
110Yellow WayS 9
111Layaway
-
VS 4c 13
 Box Quarry (Abandon all hope) 
113Cold Bum
-
S 1
114Flake CornerHVS 5b 1
115Ulley Right
-
VS 4c 1
116Saw OffE2 5c 1
117Spider
-
HVS 5a 3
118Syrett's CrackE2 5c 1
 Left to Right main crag Continued 
 Scar Buttress 
121Whillan's Arete
-
HVS 5a **72
122Pea Pod
-
HS 4b 36
123Adamski
-
MVS 4b 8
124Layback Crack
-
VD 63
125Promenade
-
M 36
126Red WallHVS 5c 1
127Rocking Chimney
-
HVD 4a 18
128Twin Cracks
-
S 4b 34
129Paddy's Route
-
VS 4b 99
130GesticulationE4 6b 3
131Fizzicle FizzleE3 5c *1
132Scar Wall
-
E5 6b *19
133ScarE2 5b ***207
134The Flakes
-
E3 5c *32
135IntrepidE6 6a **15
136Moria
-
E2 5c **86
137SlitHVS 5b 5
138LeewayHVS 5b 6
139Big Curver
-
HVS 5b *57
 Rip Buttress 
141Rip
-
HS 4a 113
 Epitaph / Hades Area to Right Hand End 
143Chimney
-
D 5
144Pinnacle Flake
-
S 9
145Ram
-
E1 5b *38
146Going for Oneness
-
E1 5b 4
147Future Times
-
E1 5b 26
148Epitaph
-
HS 4a **265
149Epitaph Direct
-
VS 4b **166
150OlleyE3 5c 1
151Hades
-
VS 4c ***260
152AnthraxE7 6b *2
153QuietusE4 6b *1
154Toss off
-
HVS 5a 19
155Nude Groove
-
HVS 5a *45
156Pearly Gates
-
HS 4a 77
157Pearly Gates (alternative finish)E1 5b 7
158La Cathedralle (DANGER WARNING)VS 4c 5
159Gold RingsVS 4c 6
160Grot
-
S 5
161KarenS 4
162Karen Right HandHVS 5a 2
 Bouldering 
164Blade Runnerf7A ***5
165Armageddon
-
f7A+ **5
166Who Are We Without Moon
-
f7A+ **7
167Zenaf7A+ 3
168The Green Wing
-
f7B **11
169The Mantlef6C **5
170The Singing Postmanf6C * 
171Chips OriginalV0- 1
172Epitaph LayawaysV0- 5
173Hades StartV0- 5
174Huffin' and puffin'f7B ** 
175Problem 5 - Hades roof areaV5 2
176Armagedon reach aroundV5 5
177Problem 14 - Hades roof areaV0+ 2
178Problem 8: Hades Roof AreaV5 *5
179Hades Traverse LowV5 *2
180Lay away: boulder startV3 **6
181Lay Away RHV4 *4
182Problem 16 - Hades roof areaV3 2
183Warm Up
-
f4 *8
184Slopey TraverseV5 2
185PodV0+ 1
186Pod AreteV2 1
187Pod ReachV4 1
188Hand Crackf4 *2
189Slab and Rooff4 2
190Block Wallf6B *4
191Block Wall Traversef5+ **3
192Central Routef5 **5
193Right Edgef4 *3
194Rising Moonf6B 1
195Pocket Jugsf5 *10
196Crispy Wall
-
f5+ 2
197Crimp Wall
-
f5 2
198Pocket
-
f5 2
199Fresh Prince of Bail Airef6B **1
200Fresh Traversef4 1
201Fleshf6A+ *1
202Slopersf6C **4
203Nude Groove startf6B+ *3
204Quaint Groovef6C ***2
205Halle Baildonf6C+ ***1
206Left Arete (Rhombic Block)f6A 2
207Jug Problemf5 *2
208Wombling Edgef6B 2
209Womble Pocketf5+ 2
210Wave Aretef6C *2
211Grit Arete
-
f5 **1
212the Oik
-
f6A+ **2
213Heave Onef6A 1
214Bitter
-
f6B *1
215Refuse to Mambo
-
f7A ** 
216UnderhereV5 1
217Pocket Rock
-
V3 2
218Jason's Traverse
-
V6 1
219Pinch 32V12 2
220Fat Larry White
-
f7C *2
221Pinch 32 Standf8A **3
 New Routes / Not Checked / Sorted 
223The Great AdventureHVS 5a 2
224Petrol Powered Garden Tools [Rip Direct?]E1 5b *5
225Low Right EdgeMVS 4c 2
226T'Empire strikes backE2 5c * 
227LocalmotionE2 5b  
228Throw Another Sheep on the Fire
-
E7 6b * 
229No Surrender
-
E8 7a ** 
230Block Aretef6A+ 1

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