Climbs 308
Rocktype Sandstone (soft)
Altitude 109m a.s.l
Faces S

On the girdle traverse, Bowles Rocks © John Stainforth

Crag features

Routes up to 10m, either for soloing or toproping. Many excellent routes including Pig's Nose, Larchant, Fandango, Digitalis, Hate, Funnel, The Thing. Owned by Bowles Outdoor Pursuits Centre - there is a charge of £5 for adults before 5pm, £4 after 5pm and £3 for children. All funds go to upkeep of the rocks, toilet facilities on site as well as providing outdoor activities for disadvantaged young people. It is less than one minute walk from the car park to the crag.

A carpet sample or mat is essential for cleaning your feet before you climb - this significantly reduces wear on the crag.

As with all sandstone crags, arrange a top-rope belay with a non-stretch sling and ensure the Karabiner hangs over the edge of the crag and that your moving rope does not come into contact with the rock.

Bowles is keen to do more for climbers and any feedback is welcome - email development@bowles.ac

Approach notes

From the A26 between Tunbridge Wells and Crowborough. The turnoff is about 1km (0.6mi) after Eridge station on the left if going towards Crowborough.

Access Advice

Bowles is owned by the Bowles Rocks Trust and is run as a non-profit making charity. The Centre operates as an outdoor education centre providing instructional courses for groups and individuals. Bowles runs rock climbing courses for beginners, improvers and for indoor climbers moving outside. Bowles also operates 2 dry ski slopes which are open to the public.

Contact: 
Bowles,
Sandhill Lane,
Eridge Green,
Tunbridge Wells,
East Sussex,
TN3 9LW.
Tel. (01892) 665665
email: admin@bowles.ac or visit www.bowles.ac.

A scheme known as ‘Open Climbing’ operates, which means you can climb anywhere not required by the Centre’s instructional courses. It is occasionally necessary to close the rocks completely, but this is extremely rare. Bowles charges for climbing, the present rates being £4 a day, £3 after 5pm, £2 for children and £30 for a season ticket.

At weekends and some evenings someone will come round to collect payment. In office hours please pay in the office. Otherwise put your money in one of the boxes at the far end of the car park or in the office porch. There are vending machines for hot and cold drinks in the Cabin, the small building by the ski slope. Under-18 climbers are only allowed if supervised by a parent, a legal guardian, or a qualified instructor holding authorization from Bowles. Dogs must be kept on a lead, and any mess cleared up. There are a number of routes with cut holds dating back to the 1960s, and it is hoped that no more of these will appear. Most of the vandalized routes can be climbed on natural features only. The Centre discourages the use of chalk on easy routes and requests it is used sparingly on the harder ones. Contrary to the Sandstone Code of Practice, you may see abseiling in certain areas by groups under Bowles instruction where care is taken to protect the rock. The BMC and Bowles management ask climbers to refrain from this potentially damaging activity. There are belay-bolts above nearly all the climbs, and in a few cases these have wire extensions.

For teenage climbers, this in NOT a good crag! Over 18s only, unless you go with your parents. Other climbers over 18 don't count, apparently...
Spoursr - 27/Jan/15
What about the direct slab next to "manita". "white verdict" I think it's called, 6b.... I can't see it on your list! http://79.170.44.210/climbingvideos.co.uk/crags/SS/sand/bowles/photos/geezerdave.jpg
rotax123 - 01/Aug/12
SandC: therer isn't an easy way of doing this, as far as I can see, unless ther problems are given names. I'll dig into it a bit more and see if I can sort something out. Rob (Crag Moderator).
Rob Naylor - 17/Mar/12
any way of getting the boulder problems added to the lists for my logbook? They dont really have names which is the problem.
SandC - 17/Mar/12
On my last visit I was sad to see a group of three climbers savagely brushing Sandman (6a) THIS ENLARGES THE HOLDS and irreversibly damages the rock! Please respect the rock by cleaning it sparingly and as gently as possible. Please read the ten commandments of sandstone (on the BMC site) to protect this fragile rock
mr random - 26/Aug/07
easier to get to than Harrisons but not as varied.
Ben - 05/Oct/04
Ignore johny, he clearly has a damaged intelligence.
mike - 17/Jul/04
Seen so many northern and indoor wusses come down and fail. Ha, ha, ha. The rock requires a very special technique you only acquire on sandstone, hard or soft. This stuff is as soft as it gets and it eats twats for breakfast
JoHNY - 09/Feb/04
Become very eroded this year, a lot of hold breakages. Be careful! And don't climb on it when wet...
Sandman - 26/Dec/03
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Chalet Slab Area 
2Hibiscus
-
none 3b 9
3Helter Skelter
-
none 5a 16
4Chalet Slab Left
-
none 3b *69
5Chalet Slab Direct
-
none 5c *33
6Chalet Slab Right
-
none 5b 41
7Two Stepnone 5b 4
8Holly Tree Problemf3+ 5
9Heidi
-
none 5a 6
10Unnamed Mantleshelfnone 5a 5
11British Bulldognone 4c 7
12Bull's Nose
-
none 4c 18
13Toreadornone 5c 2
14Badger's Head
-
none 4b 22
15Unnamednone 2a 6
16Chalet Slab Direct (traversing off)none 4b *34
17Mohrenkop
-
none 5c *13
 Bowles Rocks - Umbilicus 
19Roman Nosenone 4b 13
20Umbilicusnone 5c *13
21Fallen Angelsnone 6a 1
22Geoff's Routenone 6b 1
23Geoffrey Moon Esquiref6A  
24Blue Moonnone 6a 2
25991.8 Daysnone 6a 1
26Court's Climbnone 4c 8
 Bowles Rocks - Sirocco Slab 
28Grotty Groovenone 2a 29
29Running Jumpnone 2b 50
30Scirocco Slabnone 4b *90
31Scirocco Variationsnone 5a 14
32Netwallnone 4a *115
33Knitwallf7B 16
34Corner Laybacknone 4c 85
35Maybe when you're olderf7B 9
36Aphroditenone 6a 3
37Zoomnone 6b 2
38Santa's Clawsnone 4c 73
39Knucklebonesnone 6b 1
40Coast to Coastnone 6b  
41The Firmnone 6a 1
42Chelsea Chimneynone 2a 19
 Bowles Rocks - Reclamation Slab 
44Reclaimednone 5c 3
45Reclamation Gullynone 1a 68
46Reclamation Slab Leftnone 3b *156
47Reclamation Slapnone 5c 51
48Reclamation Slipnone 5b 12
49Reclamation Slab Rightnone 2b **262
50Mental Balancenone 6a 4
51Cenotaph Corner IInone 5b 8
52High Traversenone 4c *40
53Slyme Crymenone 6a 2
54Banana
-
none 6a **259
55Banana Hammockf6C 19
56Right wing bananaf6B 5
57Proboscisnone 6a 3
58Drosophilanone 5b **298
59Urban Jocknone 6a 2
60Babylonnone 4b *52
 Bowles Rocks - Fandango Wall 
62Coathangernone 5c *115
63T.N.T.none 5c 17
64Camel
-
f6B+ 5
65Fandango Direct Startf6A *27
66Fandangonone 5c ***150
67Fandango Centralnone 6a 6
68Fandango Right Handnone 6a ***71
69Fandango Right Hand Direct Startf7A 5
70Lucky Strikef7A **1
71Fandango Right Hand Direct Sit Startf7C  
72Pastry Directf7B+ 2
73Pastrynone 5c 10
74Poff Pastrynone 6b 2
75Tobacco Roadf6B **60
76Nicotine Alleyf7A 77
77Sugarplumf6A 7
78Icarusnone 6a 2
79Skiffle
-
none 3a *133
 Bowles Rocks - Kemp's Delight 
81Orr Traverse
-
none 5c *41
82Mick's Wall Aretenone 6a 58
83Mick's Wallnone 5b 117
84London Pridenone 6c  
85Kemp's Delight
-
none 4b *212
86Mick's Wall Variationnone 6a 20
87Pedestal to Grotto Chimney Traversenone 6a *5
88Grotto Chimneynone 2b 44
 Bowles Rocks - Serenade Arete Area 
90Patella
-
none 6a *52
91Kinnard
-
none 6b **6
92Nutella
-
none 6b *3
93Temptation
-
none 6b ***63
94Pedestal Problemf7B 5
95Digitalisnone 6a ***84
96Serenade Arete
-
none 6a **90
97Inspiration
-
none 5c **92
98The Thing
-
none 6b *20
99The Fridgef6C+ 6
100Minimum Orrf5 11
101Juanita
-
none 6a *64
102Sappernone 4c **329
103Sapper (Inspiration alternative)none 5b **38
104Sapper (overhang start)f5+ 38
105One Nighternone 6c 2
106Burlapnone 5b **239
107Burlap Eliminatenone 6a 19
108Yoyo
-
none 4a **352
109White Verdict/The Ly'innone 6b 41
110Meager's Right Handnone 5c 95
 Salamander Slab Area 
112Sing Singnone 3a 145
113Manitanone 5c 44
114Jackienone 5b *135
115Jackie Alternative Finishnone 6a 8
116Murph's Mount
-
none 5a *58
117Neronone 5c 25
118Salamander Slabnone 5c *32
119The Twilight Zonenone 6b  
120Cheese Sandwichnone 6a  
121Peter's Perseverancenone 5a **27
122Pegasus
-
none 5a ***22
123Perspirationnone 5c *86
 Carbide Finger Area (The Overhang) 
125Boiling Pointnone 6b 1
126Them monkey thing Leftf7A+ *1
127Them Monkey Thingsnone 6c 3
128Carbide Finger
-
none 6c **15
129Cardboard Boxnone 6b *35
130Bubble Wrapnone 6a  
131Thieving Gypsiesnone 6a 7
132Swastikanone 5b *29
133Nightmarenone 6a *12
134Recurring Nightmarenone 6b  
135The Big Stretchnone 5c 7
 Carbide Finger - Range Wall 
137Abracadabranone 5b 114
138Conjurornone 6a 42
139Karaf6B 9
140Ricochet
-
none 4b **215
141Kalashnikovnone 5b 15
142Four-by-Twonone 5a *208
143Four-By-Two Direct Startnone 6a 7
144Pull Throughnone 5b *238
145Pull Through Direct Startnone 6a 17
146Lee Enfieldnone 5c *158
147Targetnone 5c **90
148Target Directf6A+ **12
149Cave Wallnone 5b 2
150Cave Cracknone 5a *105
 Bowles Rocks - Pig's Nose Area 
152Cave Crack Nose Finishnone 5c 5
153E.S. Cadet Nosenone 5b *228
154ES Cadet Nose Sit Startf6B 17
155E.S. Cadet Nose Directnone 5c 10
156Skallagriggnone 6c 2
157Devaluationnone 5b ***449
158Devaluation Traversef7A *3
159Sandmannone 6b **83
160Charlie's Chimney
-
none 3a *70
161Devourf6B+ 1
162Lovenone 6a *27
163Hatenone 6a ***207
164Upside Downiesnone 6b 7
165Pig's Earnone 5c ***340
166Watson-Wattnone 6b 3
167T.T.none 5b **230
168Pig's Nosenone 5a ***652
169Kofflernone 6a *63
170Gully Wallnone 5a 33
171Birch Cracknone 1b 92
172Chrisnone 5c 60
173Kennard's Climbnone 4a *124
174Ribnone 5c 86
175Problem 34 - Banana startf4+ 3
176Dib
-
none 4a *126
 Bowles - Cadet 
178Corbett's Nosenone 4a **4
179Corbett Slabnone 4a *132
180Pedant's Slabnone 4c 22
181The Scouternone 3a 45
182Nelson's Columnnone 5a *164
183Dival's Diversionnone 5b *232
184Funnel
-
none 4a **277
185Coolcaringernone 5b 18
186UNnone 5c *114
187Chelsea Traversenone 4a 16
188Wells's Reachnone 3a **97
189The Wreckernone 6c *1
190One of Our Buzzards is Missingnone 6b *3
191Harden Gully
-
none 2a *76
 Bowles Rocks - Larchant Wall 
193A Process of Eliminationf6B *3
194Sylvie's Slab
-
none 4b *201
195Six Foot
-
none 4c *243
196Larchant
-
none 5a *330
197Hennessy Heights
-
none 5b *281
198August Variationnone 5c 66
199October
-
none 4c *192
 Bowles Rocks - Finale 
201Fragile Wall
-
none 4a **190
202Fragile Arete
-
none 5a *129
203Fragile Armsf6A 10
204Escalatornone 5a 63
205Elevatornone 5a 27
206Pop's Chimneynone 4b 34
207Renison Gullynone 3a 66
208Lawson Traversenone 4a *16
209The Lawson Extensionnone 5b 7
210Finalenone 6a 23
211Alkanone 4c *196
212Morpheusnone 6a 5
213Seltzernone 5b *137
214Encorenone 5c 25
215Zugabenone 6b 7
216¬°Otra!none 5c 3
217Novembernone 1b 81
218Baby Bouldernone 4b 45
219Easy Gullynone 1a 72
220Ballerinanone 3c 88
221Red Pegnone 2a 115
222Clairenone 3a 92
223Barham Bouldernone 4a 56
224Rad's Cliffnone 5a 42
225Muddy Gullynone 1a 10
 Bowles Rocks - Nelson's Buttress 
227Bovrilnone 4b 89
228Wallynone 4b 67
229Wally Right Handnone 5a 13
230Oliver's Twistnone 5c 30
231Nealon'snone 4c **134
232Winstonnone 4c 1
233The Lady in Mink's Left Glovenone 6b 2
234A Lady in Minknone 6a 15
235Mercator's Projectionnone 3a 6
236Healynone 3a 3
237Bennnone 5a 7
238Wilsonnone 2b 4
239Heathnone 2a 4
240Pat's Progressnone 4a 8
241Dubonnetnone 4b 7
242Williams Laybacknone 2a 11
243Free Willynone 3a 8
244Indexnone 4b 9
245Index Directnone 5b 3
 Girdle Traverse 
247Girdle Traverse
-
none 6b **6
 Unknown or insufficient information 
249Unrepentant
-
V2 **1
250Spock Does the Bump at the Space Disconone 5c **21
251Thin Flakef7A **1
252Cardboard Box Startf6C **5
253Kennard Climb
-
4a 4
254Left Hand Eliminatef7A+ *2
255Left Hand Eliminate 2f7A *2
256Tobacco Road Extensionf6B+ *7
257Thin Flake Sit Start
-
f7A+ *1
258Chalet Slab Right (easier finish)none 4c 3
259Conway's Crack
-
4c 2
260Chalet Slab Far Left To Chimneynone 3a 1
261Hot Cross BunM 1b **8
262Marmite
-
f3 **4
263Pete's Bowle's Eliminatef7B 1
264Sonic Bluef7B 9
265Phasisf7C ***9
266Gore Brothersf5 1
 Southern Sandstone Bouldering Guide Problems 
2683f3 2
269SS Bouldering Problem 41
-
f6C *1
270Problem 42f6B 10
271Problem 43f6A+ 19
272Problem 57f6A+ 5
273Route 60V0 8
274Problem 61 SSB
-
f4 4
275Problem 63f6B 3
276The Weed Roadf7A *1
277Problem 64f4 7
278Problem 65V0+ 6
279Route 66V0- 6
280Problem 58 SSBf5+ 12
281Problem 86 SSBf6C+ *4
282Route 86 no dyno 5+ variantf5+ 6
283Problem 107f6A 10
284Problem 112f5+ 6
285Problem 121 Ssbf6C 3
286Problem 114f5 2
287Face mef8A *1
288Problem 68f6C 2
28967 Ssb *f4+ *1
29059 Ssb *f3 *1
29162 SSB *f6A+ 1
29255 SSB *f6A+ 1
29336 SSB *f5+ **1
29435 SSB *f4+ 1
29534 SSB - Banana *f4+ **1
29631 SSB *f4+ 1
297113 SSB *f3 1
298117 SSB *f4+ 1
299118 SSB *f4 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderators Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteers Graham Ad and daimon