Climbs 308
Rocktype Sandstone (soft)
Altitude 109m a.s.l
Faces S

On the girdle traverse, Bowles Rocks © John Stainforth

Crag features

Routes up to 10m, either for soloing or toproping. Many excellent routes including Pig's Nose, Larchant, Fandango, Digitalis, Hate, Funnel, The Thing. Owned by Bowles Outdoor Pursuits Centre - there is a charge of £5 for adults before 5pm, £4 after 5pm and £3 for children. All funds go to upkeep of the rocks, toilet facilities on site as well as providing outdoor activities for disadvantaged young people. It is less than one minute walk from the car park to the crag.

A carpet sample or mat is essential for cleaning your feet before you climb - this significantly reduces wear on the crag.

As with all sandstone crags, arrange a top-rope belay with a non-stretch sling and ensure the Karabiner hangs over the edge of the crag and that your moving rope does not come into contact with the rock.

Bowles is keen to do more for climbers and any feedback is welcome - email development@bowles.ac

Approach notes

From the A26 between Tunbridge Wells and Crowborough. The turnoff is about 1km (0.6mi) after Eridge station on the left if going towards Crowborough.

For teenage climbers, this in NOT a good crag! Over 18s only, unless you go with your parents. Other climbers over 18 don't count, apparently...
Spoursr - 27/Jan/15
What about the direct slab next to "manita". "white verdict" I think it's called, 6b.... I can't see it on your list! http://79.170.44.210/climbingvideos.co.uk/crags/SS/sand/bowles/photos/geezerdave.jpg
rotax123 - 01/Aug/12
SandC: therer isn't an easy way of doing this, as far as I can see, unless ther problems are given names. I'll dig into it a bit more and see if I can sort something out. Rob (Crag Moderator).
Rob Naylor - 17/Mar/12
any way of getting the boulder problems added to the lists for my logbook? They dont really have names which is the problem.
SandC - 17/Mar/12
On my last visit I was sad to see a group of three climbers savagely brushing Sandman (6a) THIS ENLARGES THE HOLDS and irreversibly damages the rock! Please respect the rock by cleaning it sparingly and as gently as possible. Please read the ten commandments of sandstone (on the BMC site) to protect this fragile rock
mr random - 26/Aug/07
easier to get to than Harrisons but not as varied.
Ben - 05/Oct/04
Ignore johny, he clearly has a damaged intelligence.
mike - 17/Jul/04
Seen so many northern and indoor wusses come down and fail. Ha, ha, ha. The rock requires a very special technique you only acquire on sandstone, hard or soft. This stuff is as soft as it gets and it eats twats for breakfast
JoHNY - 09/Feb/04
Become very eroded this year, a lot of hold breakages. Be careful! And don't climb on it when wet...
Sandman - 26/Dec/03
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Chalet Slab Area
2 Hibiscus
-
none 3b 9
3 Helter Skelter
-
none 5a 16
4 Chalet Slab Left
-
none 3b * 67
5 Chalet Slab Direct
-
none 5c * 32
6 Chalet Slab Right
-
none 5b 40
7 Two Step none 5b 4
8 Holly Tree Problem f3+ 4c 5
9 Heidi
-
none 5a 6
10 Unnamed Mantleshelf none 5a 5
11 British Bulldog none 4c 7
12 Bull's Nose
-
none 4c 18
13 Toreador none 5c 2
14 Badger's Head
-
none 4b 22
15 Unnamed none 2a 6
16 Chalet Slab Direct (traversing off) none 4b * 32
17 Mohrenkop
-
none 5c * 13
  Bowles Rocks - Umbilicus
19 Roman Nose none 4b 13
20 Umbilicus none 5c * 13
21 Fallen Angels none 6a 2
22 Geoff's Route none 6b 1
23 Geoffrey Moon Esquire f6A 6b  
24 Blue Moon none 6a 2
25 991.8 Days none 6a 1
26 Court's Climb none 4c 8
  Bowles Rocks - Sirocco Slab
28 Grotty Groove none 2a 29
29 Running Jump none 2b 52
30 Scirocco Slab none 4b * 91
31 Scirocco Variations none 5a 14
32 Netwall none 4a * 116
33 Knitwall f7B 15
34 Corner Layback none 4c 87
35 Maybe when you're older f7B 10
36 Aphrodite none 6a 3
37 Zoom none 6b 2
38 Santa's Claws none 4c 74
39 Knucklebones none 6b 1
40 Coast to Coast none 6b  
41 The Firm none 6a 1
42 Chelsea Chimney none 2a 19
  Bowles Rocks - Reclamation Slab
44 Reclaimed none 5c 3
45 Reclamation Gully none 1a 68
46 Reclamation Slab Left none 3b * 157
47 Reclamation Slap none 5c 53
48 Reclamation Slip none 5b 14
49 Reclamation Slab Right none 2b ** 272
50 Mental Balance none 6a 4
51 Cenotaph Corner II none 5b 8
52 High Traverse none 4c * 40
53 Slyme Cryme none 6a 2
54 Banana
-
none 6a ** 276
55 Banana Hammock f6C 6b 18
56 Right wing banana f6B 6
57 Proboscis none 6a 3
58 Drosophila none 5b ** 312
59 Urban Jock none 6a 2
60 Babylon none 4b * 56
  Bowles Rocks - Fandango Wall
62 Coathanger none 5c * 123
63 T.N.T. none 5c 19
64 Camel
-
f6B+ 6
65 Fandango Direct Start f6A 6a * 31
66 Fandango none 5c *** 159
67 Fandango Central none 6a 6
68 Fandango Right Hand none 6a *** 66
69 Fandango Right Hand Direct Start f7A 6c 5
70 Lucky Strike f7A ** 2
71 Fandango Right Hand Direct Sit Start f7C  
72 Pastry Direct f7B+ 6c 2
73 Pastry none 5c 10
74 Poff Pastry none 6b 2
75 Tobacco Road f6B 6a ** 62
76 Nicotine Alley f7A 6b 84
77 Sugarplum f6A 6a 7
78 Icarus none 6a 3
79 Skiffle
-
none 3a * 133
  Bowles Rocks - Kemp's Delight
81 Orr Traverse
-
none 5c * 42
82 Mick's Wall Arete none 6a 60
83 Mick's Wall none 5b 120
84 London Pride none 6c  
85 Kemp's Delight
-
none 4b * 223
86 Mick's Wall Variation none 6a 22
87 Pedestal to Grotto Chimney Traverse none 6a * 5
88 Grotto Chimney none 2b 43
  Bowles Rocks - Serenade Arete Area
90 Patella
-
none 6a * 52
91 Kinnard
-
none 6b ** 7
92 Nutella
-
none 6b * 3
93 Temptation
-
none 6b *** 64
94 Pedestal Problem f7B 6c 5
95 Digitalis none 6a *** 71
96 Serenade Arete
-
none 6a ** 93
97 Inspiration
-
none 5c ** 90
98 The Thing
-
none 6b * 20
99 The Fridge f6C+ 6b 6
100 Minimum Orr f5 11
101 Juanita
-
none 6a * 64
102 Sapper none 4c ** 341
103 Sapper (Inspiration alternative) none 5b ** 39
104 Sapper (overhang start) f5+ 5c 39
105 One Nighter none 6c 2
106 Burlap none 5b ** 251
107 Burlap Eliminate none 6a 18
108 Yoyo
-
none 4a ** 360
109 White Verdict/The Ly'in none 6b 41
110 Meager's Right Hand none 5c 98
  Salamander Slab Area
112 Sing Sing none 3a 146
113 Manita none 5c 45
114 Jackie none 5b * 140
115 Jackie Alternative Finish none 6a 8
116 Murph's Mount
-
none 5a * 61
117 Nero none 5c 26
118 Salamander Slab none 5c * 33
119 The Twilight Zone none 6b  
120 Cheese Sandwich none 6a  
121 Peter's Perseverance none 5a ** 31
122 Pegasus
-
none 5a *** 21
123 Perspiration none 5c * 89
  Carbide Finger Area (The Overhang)
125 Boiling Point none 6b 1
126 Them monkey thing Left f7A+ * 1
127 Them Monkey Things none 6c 3
128 Carbide Finger
-
none 6c ** 10
129 Cardboard Box none 6b * 30
130 Bubble Wrap none 6a  
131 Thieving Gypsies none 6a 7
132 Swastika none 5b * 28
133 Nightmare none 6a * 13
134 Recurring Nightmare none 6b  
135 The Big Stretch none 5c 7
  Carbide Finger - Range Wall
137 Abracadabra none 5b 119
138 Conjuror none 6a 43
139 Kara f6B 6a 11
140 Ricochet
-
none 4b ** 222
141 Kalashnikov none 5b 15
142 Four-by-Two none 5a * 215
143 Four-By-Two Direct Start none 6a 7
144 Pull Through none 5b * 240
145 Pull Through Direct Start none 6a 17
146 Lee Enfield none 5c * 160
147 Target none 5c ** 96
148 Target Direct f6A+ 6a ** 13
149 Cave Wall none 5b 4
150 Cave Crack none 5a * 111
  Bowles Rocks - Pig's Nose Area
152 Cave Crack Nose Finish none 5c 6
153 E.S. Cadet Nose none 5b * 237
154 ES Cadet Nose Sit Start f6B 6a 16
155 E.S. Cadet Nose Direct none 5c 10
156 Skallagrigg none 6c 2
157 Devaluation none 5b *** 467
158 Devaluation Traverse f7A * 4
159 Sandman none 6b ** 79
160 Charlie's Chimney
-
none 3a * 73
161 Devour f6B+ 1
162 Love none 6a * 23
163 Hate none 6a *** 197
164 Upside Downies none 6b 7
165 Pig's Ear none 5c *** 351
166 Watson-Watt none 6b 3
167 T.T. none 5b ** 243
168 Pig's Nose none 5a *** 682
169 Koffler none 6a * 71
170 Gully Wall none 5a 33
171 Birch Crack none 1b 93
172 Chris none 5c 60
173 Kennard's Climb none 4a * 129
174 Rib none 5c 87
175 Problem 34 - Banana start f4+ 4
176 Dib
-
none 4a * 130
  Bowles - Cadet
178 Corbett's Nose none 4a ** 7
179 Corbett Slab none 4a * 138
180 Pedant's Slab none 4c 23
181 The Scouter none 3a 45
182 Nelson's Column none 5a * 172
183 Dival's Diversion none 5b * 238
184 Funnel
-
none 4a ** 282
185 Coolcaringer none 5b 21
186 UN none 5c * 118
187 Chelsea Traverse none 4a 16
188 Wells's Reach none 3a ** 99
189 The Wrecker none 6c * 1
190 One of Our Buzzards is Missing none 6b * 3
191 Harden Gully
-
none 2a * 76
  Bowles Rocks - Larchant Wall
193 A Process of Elimination f6B * 4
194 Sylvie's Slab
-
none 4b * 204
195 Six Foot
-
none 4c * 246
196 Larchant
-
none 5a * 339
197 Hennessy Heights
-
none 5b * 286
198 August Variation none 5c 68
199 October
-
none 4c * 197
  Bowles Rocks - Finale
201 Fragile Wall
-
none 4a ** 194
202 Fragile Arete
-
none 5a * 136
203 Fragile Arms f6A 6a 9
204 Escalator none 5a 64
205 Elevator none 5a 29
206 Pop's Chimney none 4b 35
207 Renison Gully none 3a 66
208 Lawson Traverse none 4a * 16
209 The Lawson Extension none 5b 8
210 Finale none 6a 23
211 Alka none 4c * 202
212 Morpheus none 6a 6
213 Seltzer none 5b * 147
214 Encore none 5c 26
215 Zugabe none 6b 6
216 ¬°Otra! none 5c 3
217 November none 1b 80
218 Baby Boulder none 4b 46
219 Easy Gully none 1a 70
220 Ballerina none 3c 87
221 Red Peg none 2a 113
222 Claire none 3a 93
223 Barham Boulder none 4a 54
224 Rad's Cliff none 5a 43
225 Muddy Gully none 1a 10
  Bowles Rocks - Nelson's Buttress
227 Bovril none 4b 87
228 Wally none 4b 65
229 Wally Right Hand none 5a 13
230 Oliver's Twist none 5c 30
231 Nealon's none 4c ** 133
232 Winston none 4c 1
233 The Lady in Mink's Left Glove none 6b 3
234 A Lady in Mink none 6a 15
235 Mercator's Projection none 3a 6
236 Healy none 3a 3
237 Benn none 5a 6
238 Wilson none 2b 4
239 Heath none 2a 4
240 Pat's Progress none 4a 8
241 Dubonnet none 4b 7
242 Williams Layback none 2a 11
243 Free Willy none 3a 8
244 Index none 4b 9
245 Index Direct none 5b 3
  Girdle Traverse
247 Girdle Traverse
-
none 6b ** 6
  Unknown or insufficient information
249 Unrepentant
-
V2 5c ** 2
250 Spock Does the Bump at the Space Disco none 5c ** 22
251 Thin Flake f7A ** 2
252 Cardboard Box Start f6C ** 7
253 Kennard Climb
-
4a 4
254 Left Hand Eliminate f7A+ * 2
255 Left Hand Eliminate 2 f7A * 2
256 Tobacco Road Extension f6B+ * 7
257 Thin Flake Sit Start
-
f7A+ * 1
258 Chalet Slab Right (easier finish) none 4c 3
259 Conway's Crack
-
4c 2
260 Chalet Slab Far Left To Chimney none 3a 1
261 Hot Cross Bun M 1b ** 7
262 Marmite
-
f3 4a ** 4
263 Pete's Bowle's Eliminate f7B 1
264 Sonic Blue f7B 7
265 Phasis f7C *** 8
266 Gore Brothers f5 1
  Southern Sandstone Bouldering Guide Problems
268 3 f3 2
269 SS Bouldering Problem 41
-
f6C * 1
270 Problem 42 f6B 10
271 Problem 43 f6A+ 22
272 Problem 57 f6A+ 5
273 Route 60 V0 4 10
274 Problem 61 SSB
-
f4 4
275 Problem 63 f6B 3
276 The Weed Road f7A * 1
277 Problem 64 f4 8
278 Problem 65 V0+ 6
279 Route 66 V0- 4+ 7
280 Problem 58 SSB f5+ 13
281 Problem 86 SSB f6C+ * 4
282 Route 86 no dyno 5+ variant f5+ 6
283 Problem 107 f6A 12
284 Problem 112 f5+ 7
285 Problem 121 Ssb f6C 3
286 Problem 114 f5 2
287 Face me f8A * 1
288 Problem 68 f6C 2
289 67 Ssb * f4+ * 1
290 59 Ssb * f3 * 2
291 62 SSB * f6A+ 6
292 55 SSB * f6A+ 1
293 36 SSB * f5+ ** 1
294 35 SSB * f4+ 3
295 34 SSB - Banana * f4+ ** 1
296 31 SSB * f4+ 1
297 113 SSB * f3 1
298 117 SSB * f4+ 1
299 118 SSB * f4 1
300 Problem 78 * f6A 1
301 23 SSB * f6B+ 2
302 Problem 108 (SSB) * f6A 2
303 Problem 109 (SSB) * f6A+ 2
304 Problem 110 (SSB) * f6B+ 1
305 Problem 79 ssb * f6A 1
306 Problem 65 ssb * f5  
307 Problem 56 ssb * f6B 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderators Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteers Graham Ad and daimon