Climbs 306
Rocktype Sandstone (soft)
Altitude 109m a.s.l
Faces S

On the girdle traverse, Bowles Rocks © John Stainforth

Crag features

Routes up to 10m, either for soloing or toproping. Better routes include Fandango (5c), Digitalis (6a) and The Thing (6b). Owned by Bowles Outdoor Pursuits Centre - there is a small charge of £5 for adults before 5pm, £4 after 5pm and £3 for children. All funds go to upkeep of the rocks, toilet facilities on site as well as providing outdoor activities for disadvantaged young people. It is a one minute walk from the car park to the crag.

A carpet sample or mat is essential for cleaning your feet before you climb - this significantly reduces wear on the crag.

Bowles is keen to do more for climbers and any feedback is welcome - email

Approach notes

From the A26 between Tunbridge Wells and Crowborough. The turnoff is about 1km (0.6mi) after Eridge station on the left if going twds Crowborough.

Access Advice

Bowles is owned by the Bowles Rocks Trust and is run as a non-profit making charity. The Centre operates as an outdoor education centre providing instructional courses for groups and individuals. Bowles runs rock climbing courses for beginners, improvers and for indoor climbers moving outside. Bowles also operates 2 dry ski slopes which are open to the public.

Sandhill Lane,
Eridge Green,
Tunbridge Wells,
East Sussex,
TN3 9LW.
Tel. (01892) 665665
email: or visit

A scheme known as ‘Open Climbing’ operates, which means you can climb anywhere not required by the Centre’s instructional courses. It is occasionally necessary to close the rocks completely, but this is extremely rare. Bowles charges for climbing, the present rates being £4 a day, £3 after 5pm, £2 for children and £30 for a season ticket.

At weekends and some evenings someone will come round to collect payment. In office hours please pay in the office. Otherwise put your money in one of the boxes at the far end of the car park or in the office porch. There are vending machines for hot and cold drinks in the Cabin, the small building by the ski slope. Under-18 climbers are only allowed if supervised by a parent, a legal guardian, or a qualified instructor holding authorization from Bowles. Dogs must be kept on a lead, and any mess cleared up. There are a number of routes with cut holds dating back to the 1960s, and it is hoped that no more of these will appear. Most of the vandalized routes can be climbed on natural features only. The Centre discourages the use of chalk on easy routes and requests it is used sparingly on the harder ones. Contrary to the Sandstone Code of Practice, you may see abseiling in certain areas by groups under Bowles instruction where care is taken to protect the rock. The BMC and Bowles management ask climbers to refrain from this potentially damaging activity. There are belay-bolts above nearly all the climbs, and in a few cases these have wire extensions.

For teenage climbers, this in NOT a good crag! Over 18s only, unless you go with your parents. Other climbers over 18 don't count, apparently...
Spoursr - 27/Jan/15
What about the direct slab next to "manita". "white verdict" I think it's called, 6b.... I can't see it on your list!
rotax123 - 01/Aug/12
SandC: therer isn't an easy way of doing this, as far as I can see, unless ther problems are given names. I'll dig into it a bit more and see if I can sort something out. Rob (Crag Moderator).
Rob Naylor - 17/Mar/12
any way of getting the boulder problems added to the lists for my logbook? They dont really have names which is the problem.
SandC - 17/Mar/12
On my last visit I was sad to see a group of three climbers savagely brushing Sandman (6a) THIS ENLARGES THE HOLDS and irreversibly damages the rock! Please respect the rock by cleaning it sparingly and as gently as possible. Please read the ten commandments of sandstone (on the BMC site) to protect this fragile rock
mr random - 26/Aug/07
easier to get to than Harrisons but not as varied.
Ben - 05/Oct/04
Ignore johny, he clearly has a damaged intelligence.
mike - 17/Jul/04
Seen so many northern and indoor wusses come down and fail. Ha, ha, ha. The rock requires a very special technique you only acquire on sandstone, hard or soft. This stuff is as soft as it gets and it eats twats for breakfast
JoHNY - 09/Feb/04
Become very eroded this year, a lot of hold breakages. Be careful! And don't climb on it when wet...
Sandman - 26/Dec/03
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Chalet Slab Area 
2Holly Tree Problemf3+ 5
none 5a 6
4Unnamed Mantleshelfnone 5a 5
5British Bulldognone 4c 6
6Bull's Nose
none 4c 17
7Toreadornone 5c 2
8Badger's Head
none 4b 22
9Unnamednone 2a 6
none 3b 9
11Helter Skelter
none 5a 16
12Chalet Slab Left
none 3b *69
13Chalet Slab Direct
none 5c *33
14Chalet Slab Direct (traversing off)none 4b *33
15Chalet Slab Right
none 5b 41
none 5c *13
17Two Stepnone 5b 4
 Netwall Area (Amphitheatre Left) 
19Roman Nosenone 4b 13
20Umbilicusnone 5c *13
21Fallen Angelsnone 6a 1
22Geoff's Routenone 6b 1
23Geoffrey Moon Esquiref6A  
24Blue Moonnone 6a 2
25991.8 Daysnone 6a 1
26Court's Climbnone 4c 8
27Grotty Groovenone 2a 27
28Running Jumpnone 2b 48
29Scirocco Slabnone 4b *89
30Scirocco Variationsnone 5a 14
31Netwallnone 4a *112
32Knitwallnone 4a 13
33Corner Laybacknone 4c 84
34Maybe when you're olderf7B 8
35Aphroditenone 6a 1
36Zoomnone 6b 2
37Santa's Clawsnone 4c 72
38Knucklebonesnone 6b 1
39Coast to Coastnone 6b  
40The Firmnone 6a 1
41Chelsea Chimneynone 2a 19
 Reclamation Slab/Banana Area 
43Reclaimednone 5c 3
44Reclamation Gullynone 1a 65
45Reclamation Slab Leftnone 3b *154
46Reclamation Slapnone 5c 49
47Reclamation Slipnone 5b 12
48Reclamation Slab Rightnone 2b **257
49Mental Balancenone 6a 4
50Cenotaph Corner IInone 5b 8
51High Traversenone 4c *37
52Slyme Crymenone 6a 2
none 6a **258
54Banana Hammockf6C 17
55Right wing bananaf6B 4
56Proboscisnone 6a 2
57Drosophilanone 5b **286
58Urban Jocknone 6a 2
59Babylonnone 4b *52
60T.N.T.none 5c 17
62Coathangernone 5c *104
63Fandango Direct Startf6A *25
64Fandangonone 5c ***148
65Fandango Centralnone 6a 6
66Fandango Right Handnone 6a ***71
67Fandango Right Hand Direct Startf7A 5
68Lucky Strikef7A **1
69Fandango Right Hand Direct Sit Startf7C  
70Pastry Directf7B+ 2
71Pastrynone 5c 10
72Poff Pastrynone 6b 2
73Tobacco Roadf6B **57
74Nicotine Alleyf7A 74
75Sugarplumf6A 7
76Icarusnone 6a 1
none 3a *132
78Orr Traverse
none 5c *39
79Mick's Wall Aretenone 6a 57
80Mick's Wallnone 5b 117
81London Pridenone 6c  
82Kemp's Delight
none 4b *204
83Mick's Wall Variationnone 6a 16
84Grotto Chimneynone 2b 44
 Temptation Area (Amphitheatre Right) 
86Pedestal to Grotto Chimney Traversenone 6a *5
none 6a *52
none 6b **6
none 6b *3
none 6b ***43
91Pedestal Problemf7B 5
92Digitalisnone 6a ***84
93Serenade Arete
none 6a **84
none 5c **92
95The Thing
none 6b *20
96The Fridgef6C+ 3
none 6a *64
98Sappernone 4c **322
99Sapper (Inspiration alternative)none 5b **36
100Sapper (overhang start)f5+ 38
101One Nighternone 6c 2
102Burlapnone 5b **238
103Burlap Eliminatenone 6a 17
none 4a **346
105White Verdict/The Ly'innone 6b 38
106Meager's Right Handnone 5c 93
107Sing Singnone 3a 144
 Salamander Slab Area 
109Manitanone 5c 41
110Jackienone 5b *133
111Jackie Alternative Finishnone 6a 8
112Murph's Mount
none 5a *58
113Neronone 5c 25
114Salamander Slabnone 5c *32
115The Twilight Zonenone 6b  
116Cheese Sandwichnone 6a  
117Peter's Perseverancenone 5a **27
none 5a ***22
119Perspirationnone 5c *86
120Boiling Pointnone 6b 1
121Them Monkey Thingsnone 6c 3
 Carbide Finger Area (The Overhang) 
123Carbide Finger
none 6c **15
124Cardboard Boxnone 6b *29
125Bubble Wrapnone 6a  
126Thieving Gypsiesnone 6a 7
127Swastikanone 5b *29
128Nightmarenone 6a *12
129Recurring Nightmarenone 6b  
130Abracadabranone 5a 113
 Range Wall 
132Conjurornone 6a 32
133Karaf6B 7
none 4b **212
135Kalashnikovnone 5b 15
136Four-by-Twonone 5a *204
137Four-By-Two Direct Startnone 6a 7
138Pull Throughnone 5b *233
139Pull Through Direct Startnone 6a 16
140Lee Enfieldnone 5c *158
141Targetnone 5c **83
142Target Directf6A+ **12
 Devaluation Buttress 
144The Big Stretchnone 5c 7
145Cave Cracknone 5a *102
146Cave Wallnone 5b 1
147Cave Crack Nose Finishnone 5c 5
148E.S. Cadet Nosenone 5b *223
149ES Cadet Nose Sit Startf6B 15
150E.S. Cadet Nose Directnone 5c 10
151Skallagriggnone 6c 2
152Devaluationnone 5b ***446
153Devaluation Traversef7A *3
154Sandmannone 6b **80
155Charlie's Chimney
none 3a *69
 Pig's Nose Area 
157Lovenone 6a *27
158Hatenone 6a ***204
159Upside Downiesnone 6b 7
160Pig's Earnone 5c ***335
161Watson-Wattnone 6b 3
162T.T.none 5b **227
163Pig's Nosenone 5a ***645
164Kofflernone 6a *60
165Gully Wallnone 5a 31
166Birch Cracknone 1b 91
 Funnel Area 
168Chrisnone 5c 58
169Kennard's Climbnone 4a *123
170Ribnone 5c 83
171Problem 34 - Banana startf4+ 3
none 4a *126
173Corbett's Nosenone 4a **3
174Corbett Slabnone 4a *123
175Pedant's Slabnone 4c 22
176The Scouternone 3a 45
177Nelson's Columnnone 5a *159
178Dival's Diversionnone 5b *229
none 4a **272
180Coolcaringernone 5b 13
181UNnone 5c *112
182Chelsea Traversenone 4a 16
183Wells's Reachnone 3a **94
184The Wreckernone 6c * 
185One of Our Buzzards is Missingnone 6b *3
186Harden Gully
none 2a *73
 Fragile Wall Area 
188A Process of Eliminationf6B *2
189Sylvie's Slab
none 4b *195
190Six Foot
none 4c *236
none 5a *323
192Hennessy Heights
none 5b *265
193August Variationnone 5c 57
none 4c *189
195Fragile Wall
none 4a **187
196Fragile Arete
none 5a *122
197Fragile Armsf6A 10
198Escalatornone 5a 62
199Elevatornone 5a 26
200Pop's Chimneynone 4b 34
201Renison Gullynone 3a 65
202Lawson Traversenone 4a *16
203The Lawson Extensionnone 5b 7
 Clark's Cap 
205Finalenone 6a 22
206Alkanone 4c *194
207Morpheusnone 6a 5
208Seltzernone 5b *137
209Encorenone 5c 25
210Zugabenone 6b 3
211¡Otra!none 5c 3
 Easy Gully Area 
213Novembernone 1b 76
214Baby Bouldernone 4b 44
215Easy Gullynone 1a 70
216Ballerinanone 3c 80
217Red Pegnone 2a 107
218Clairenone 3a 86
219Barham Bouldernone 4a 56
220Rad's Cliffnone 5a 42
221Muddy Gullynone 1a 10
222Bovrilnone 4b 76
223Wallynone 4b 61
224Wally Right Handnone 5a 12
225Oliver's Twistnone 5c 30
226Nealon'snone 4c **133
227Winstonnone 4c 1
228The Lady in Mink's Left Glovenone 6b 2
229A Lady in Minknone 6a 15
230Mercator's Projectionnone 3a 6
231Healynone 3a 3
232Bennnone 5a 5
233Wilsonnone 2b 4
234Heathnone 2a 4
 Bowles Buttress 
236Pat's Progressnone 4a 8
237Dubonnetnone 4b 7
238Williams Laybacknone 2a 11
239Free Willynone 3a 7
240Indexnone 4b 8
241Index Directnone 5b 3
 Girdle Traverse 
243Girdle Traverse
none 6b **6
 Unknown or insufficient information 
V2 **1
246Spock Does the Bump at the Space Disconone 5c **21
247Thin Flakef7A **1
248Cardboard Box Startf6C **5
249Kennard Climb
4a 3
250Left Hand Eliminatef7A+ *2
251Left Hand Eliminate 2f7A *2
252Tobacco Road Extensionf6B+ *6
253Thin Flake Sit Start
f7A+ *1
254Chalet Slab Right (easier finish)none 4c 2
255Conway's Crack
4c 2
256Chalet Slab Far Left To Chimneynone 3a 1
257Hot Cross BunM 1b **5
f3 **3
259Them monkey thing Leftf7A+ *1
260Pete's Bowle's Eliminatef7B 1
261Sonic Bluef7B 7
262Phasisf7C ***5
 Southern Sandstone Bouldering Guide Problems 
2643f3 2
265Problem 21 SSBf7B *1
266Problem 23 SSB
f6B+ 2
267Problem 31f4+ 2
268Problem 36 Drosophila startf5 7
269Problem 39 - Coathanger startf6A 7
270SS Bouldering Problem 41
f6C *1
271Problem 42f6B 6
272Problem 43f6A+ 18
273Problem 47f6B+ *5
274Problem 51 SSBf6B+ 1
275Problem 57f6A+ 2
276Route 59V0- 9
277Route 60V0 7
278Problem 61 SSB
f4 4
279Problem 62f6A+ 10
280Problem 63f6B 2
281The Weed Roadf7A *1
282Problem 32 SSBf6C+ **1
283Problem 54 SSB
f5 3
284Route 64f4 7
285Route 65V0+ 5
286Route 66V0- 5
287Problem 67 SSB
f4+ 6
288Problem 69 SSBf6A 3
289Route 70V0- 3
290Problem 92 SSB
f4+ 1
291Problem 93 SSB
f3+ 1
292Problem 53 SSB
f5 2
293Problem 58 SSBf5+ 7
294Route79V3 9
295Route 80f6A 2
296SS Boulder Problem 85f6A+ 3
297Problem 86 SSBf6C+ *3
298Route 86 no dyno 5+ variantf5+ 5
299SS Boulder Problem 87f6B 1
300Problem 88 SSBf6A 1
301Problem 94 SSB
f4 1
302Problem 95 SSB
f3+ 1
303Problem 96 SSB
f3 1
304Problem 97 SSB
f4 3
305Problem 98 SSB
f4+ 3
306Problem 99 SSBf6A *1
307Problem 102 SSB
f5 2
308Problem 103 SSB
f5 2
309Problem 104 SSB
f4+ 2
310Problem 105f5 5
311Problem 106f5+ 6
312Problem 107f6A 9
313Problem 108f6A 8
314Problem 109 SSB
f6A+ 2
315Problem 112f5+ 5
316Problem 116 SSB
f4+ 2
317Route 117V0 4
318Route 118V0- 3
319Problem 121 Ssbf6C 2
320Problem 122 SSBf5+ 7
321Problem 111f6A+ 1
322Problem 114f5 1
323Problem 120f5 1

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