UKC

Climbs 344
Rocktype Sandstone (soft)
Altitude 109m a.s.l
Faces S

On the girdle traverse, Bowles Rocks © John Stainforth

Crag features

Routes up to 10m, either for soloing or toproping. Many excellent routes including Pig's Nose, Larchant, Fandango, Digitalis, Hate, Funnel, The Thing. Owned by Bowles Outdoor Pursuits Centre - there is a charge of £5 for adults before 5pm, £4 after 5pm and £3 for children. All funds go to upkeep of the rocks, toilet facilities on site as well as providing outdoor activities for disadvantaged young people. It is less than one minute walk from the car park to the crag.

A carpet sample or mat is essential for cleaning your feet before you climb - this significantly reduces wear on the crag.

As with all sandstone crags, arrange a top-rope belay with a non-stretch sling and ensure the Karabiner hangs over the edge of the crag and that your moving rope does not come into contact with the rock.

Bowles is keen to do more for climbers and any feedback is welcome - email development@bowles.ac

Approach notes

From the A26 between Tunbridge Wells and Crowborough. The turnoff is about 1km (0.6mi) after Eridge station on the left if going towards Crowborough.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

Southern Sandstone Climbs

The Southern Sandstone Rockfax covers the climbing situated in the Southeast of England on the borders of Kent and East Sussex.The book covers the climbing and bouldering in the usual Rockfax style - big full-colour photo-topos, detailed maps and full text descriptions - all lavishly supported by some great action photography.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Southern sandstone bouldering (2012)
Southern Sandstone (2008)

Out of print:
For teenage climbers, this in NOT a good crag! Over 18s only, unless you go with your parents. Other climbers over 18 don't count, apparently...
Spoursr - 27/Jan/15
What about the direct slab next to "manita". "white verdict" I think it's called, 6b.... I can't see it on your list! http://79.170.44.210/climbingvideos.co.uk/crags/SS/sand/bowles/photos/geezerdave.jpg
rotax123 - 01/Aug/12
SandC: therer isn't an easy way of doing this, as far as I can see, unless ther problems are given names. I'll dig into it a bit more and see if I can sort something out. Rob (Crag Moderator).
Rob Naylor - 17/Mar/12
any way of getting the boulder problems added to the lists for my logbook? They dont really have names which is the problem.
SandC - 17/Mar/12
On my last visit I was sad to see a group of three climbers savagely brushing Sandman (6a) THIS ENLARGES THE HOLDS and irreversibly damages the rock! Please respect the rock by cleaning it sparingly and as gently as possible. Please read the ten commandments of sandstone (on the BMC site) to protect this fragile rock
mr random - 26/Aug/07
easier to get to than Harrisons but not as varied.
Ben - 05/Oct/04
Ignore johny, he clearly has a damaged intelligence.
mike - 17/Jul/04
Seen so many northern and indoor wusses come down and fail. Ha, ha, ha. The rock requires a very special technique you only acquire on sandstone, hard or soft. This stuff is as soft as it gets and it eats twats for breakfast
JoHNY - 09/Feb/04
Become very eroded this year, a lot of hold breakages. Be careful! And don't climb on it when wet...
Sandman - 26/Dec/03
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Ski Slope Boulders
2 Window Smasher f2+ *  
3 Naughty Sporty f2  
4 Spice f2 *  
5 One in the Pink f2  
6 Heidi f4+ 11
7 Referendum f4+ 5
8 British Bulldog f4+ * 7
9 Bull's Nose f4+ * 21
10 Toreador f4+ 2
11 Badger's Head f3+ * 24
12 Badgering the Badger f2 9
13 End of it All f2  
14 Candyland f4  
15 Redwood f3+  
  Chalet Slab Area
17 Hibiscus 5a 4c ** 9
18 Helter Skelter 6c 5c 20
19 Chalet Slab - Chimney f3  
20 Chalet Slab Left 3c 3c ** 71
21 Chalet Slab Direct 6b 5c ** 35
22 Chalet Slab Direct - Variation none 4c * 36
23 Chalet Slab Right 4c 4c * 49
24 Mumbo Jumbo 6b 5b *  
25 Mohrenkop 6b+ 5c ** 17
26 Two Step 6b 5b 6
27 Vito f2  
28 Michael f2+  
29 Fredo - Left f2+  
30 Fredo - Right f2+  
31 Luca f2+  
32 Sonny f2  
33 Salvatore f2  
34 Emillio f2  
35 Tom f2  
36 Carlo f4+  
37 Enzo f2  
  Umbilicus
39 Roman Nose 5a 4c * 17
40 Umbilicus 6c 6a ** 13
41 Fallen Angels 7a 6a ** 2
42 Jean Genie 6b+ 5c  
43 Geoff's Route 7a 6b * 1
44 Geoffrey Moon Esquire 7a 6b  
45 Blue Moon 7a 6a * 2
46 991.8 Days 6c 6a 1
47 Court's Climb 4c 4c 12
  Scirocco Slab
49 Grotty Groove 3c 3c 33
50 Grotty Slab f2+  
51 Running Jump 4a 4a * 56
52 Scirocco Wall 4b 4b **  
53 Scirocco Slab 5a 4c ** 108
54 Netwall 4c 4c * 120
55 Knitwall f7B 13
56 Corner Layback 6a+ 5a ** 91
  Knucklebones
58 Aphrodite 6c 6a * 3
59 Zoom 7a 6b * 3
60 Santa's Claws 5a 4c * 78
61 Maybe when you're older f7B 12
62 Knucklebones 7a+ 6b * 1
63 Coast to Coast 7a 6b  
64 Chelsea Chimney 3a 3a 23
65 The Firm none 6a 1
66 Reclaimed none 5c 3
  Reclamation Slab
68 Reclamation Gully 3a 3a 72
69 Reclamation Slab Left 3c 3c * 162
70 Reclamation Slap 6b+ 5c * 53
71 Reclamation Slab Right 3a 3a ** 282
72 Reclamation Slab Right - Eliminate none 5b 14
73 Mental Balance 6c 6a * 4
74 Cenotaph Corner II 6a+ 5b 8
  Banana
76 High Traverse 5a 4c * 41
77 Slyme Cryme 6c+ 6a 2
78 Banana Hammock f6C ** 21
79 Banana 6c 6a *** 268
80 Proboscis 6c+ 6a 3
81 Drosophila 6a+ 5b *** 313
82 Urban Jock 7a 6b * 2
83 Babylon 5a 4c 59
  Fandango Wall
85 T.N.T. 6b 5c * 19
86 Coathanger 6b+ 5c *** 123
87 Camel f6B+ ** 8
88 Station to Station 7a+ 6b *  
89 Fandango 6c+ 6a *** 146
90 Fandango Central 7a+ 6a * 5
91 Fandango Right Hand 6c+ 6a *** 67
92 Sonic Blue f7B+ ** 14
93 Phasis f7C ** 11
94 Face me f8A * 1
95 Twisted Vegas f7B ** 2
96 Nicotine Alley f7A *** 79
97 Tobacco Road f6B+ *** 65
98 Tobacco Road Extension f6B+ *** 7
99 Poff Pastry 7a+ 6b * 2
100 Pastry 6c 5c ** 12
101 Skiffle 4a 4a * 142
102 Sugarplum f6A ** 7
103 Icarus 6c+ 6a * 3
  Kemp's Delight
105 Orr Traverse 6b 5c ** 43
106 Mick's Wall Arete 6c+ 6a ** 58
107 Mick's Wall 6b 5b ** 121
108 London Pride 7b+ 6c *  
109 Kemp's Delight 5a 4c ** 228
110 Mick's Wall Variation 6c+ 6a * 22
111 Grotto Chimney 4c 4c 49
Climb name Grade
  Serenade Arete Area
113 Patella 7a 6a ** 56
114 Kinnard 7a+ 6b * 7
115 Nutella 7b 6b * 3
116 Inclination to Sin f6A+ 6
117 Resistance f5+ 14
118 Minimum Orr f5 * 12
119 Maximum Orr f6A+ ** 8
120 Temptation 7a 6b *** 56
121 Digitalis 6c+ 6a *** 71
122 Serenade Arete 6c+ 6a *** 86
123 Inspiration 6b+ 5c *** 94
124 The Thing 7b 6b * 20
125 Jabba f4+ 1
126 The Fridge f6C+ 5
127 Juanita 6c 6a * 65
128 One Nighter 7c 6c * 2
129 Sapper 5b 5a *** 341
130 Burlap 6a+ 5b *** 248
131 Burlap Eliminate 6c 6a * 18
132 Yoyo 4c 4c ** 373
133 Yo Yo - Variation 6b ** 23
134 White Verdict 7a+ 6b * 40
135 The Ly'in 7a 6b * 1
136 Meager's Right Hand 6b 5c * 100
  Salamander Slab
138 Sing Sing 3c 3c * 152
139 Manita 6b+ 5c ** 45
140 Jackie 6a+ 5b ** 143
141 Jackie Direct f4+  
142 Jackie Alternative Finish f4+ 9
143 Murph's Mount 6a+ 5a * 64
144 Nero 6b+ 5c ** 26
145 Hellbender f6A *  
146 Flatwoods f6A+ *  
147 Salamander Slab 6b+ 5c ** 36
148 The Twilight Zone f6B  
149 Perspiration Direct 6c 5c ***  
150 Perspiration 6c 5c *** 92
151 Peter's Perseverance 6a 5a ** 34
152 Pegasus
-
none 5a *** 24
153 Hidrosis f6A **  
154 Boiling Point 7a+ 6b * 1
155 Them Monkey Things 7c+ 6c * 3
156 Carbide Finger 7c 6c *** 11
157 Cardboard Box 7a+ 6b ** 31
158 Thieving Gypsies 6c+ 6a * 7
159 Swastika 6b 5b ** 32
160 Bubble Wrap 7a+ 6b *  
161 Nightmare 6c+ 6a ** 13
162 Recurring Nightmare 7b+ 6b  
  Range Wall
164 Abracadabra 6b 5b *** 122
165 Conjuror 6c+ 6a 43
166 Kara f6A 20
167 Ricochet 5b 5a ** 227
168 Four-by-Two 5c 5a ** 233
169 Pull Through 6a 5b ** 249
170 Pull Through - Direct Start none 6a 17
171 Lee Enfield 6a+ 5b ** 166
172 Target Direct f6B 13
173 Target 6c 5c ** 99
174 The Big Stretch 6c+ 5c 7
175 Cave Crack 5a 4c ** 115
176 Cave Crack - Cave Wall Variation none 5b 8
177 Cave Crack - Variation Finish none 5c 6
  Pig's Nose Area
179 E.S. Cadet Nose 6a+ 5b ** 252
180 ES Cadet Nose Sit Start f6B 6a 16
181 Skallagrigg 7b+ 6c 2
182 Devaluation 6a+ 5b *** 470
183 Sandman 7a+ 6b ** 79
184 Stoneman 7b 6b  
185 Devour f6B+ ** 5
186 Charlie's Chimney 4a 4a * 81
187 Love 7a 6a * 25
188 Hate 6c+ 6a *** 200
189 Upside Downies 7a 6b * 7
190 Pig's Ear 6b+ 5c *** 350
191 Watson-Watt (Eliminate) none 6b 3
192 T.T. 6a+ 5b ** 246
193 Pig's Nose 5c 5a *** 696
194 Koffler 6c 6a ** 68
195 Gully Wall 6a+ 5a * 37
  Funnel
197 Birch Crack 3c 3c * 99
198 Chris 6b 5c * 60
199 Kennard's Climb 4a 4a 141
200 Rib 6b 5c 87
201 Love Without Resistance f6B **  
202 Dib 4a 4a 135
203 The Scouter none 3a 52
204 The Scouter Direct 4c 4c *  
205 Corbett Slab 4c 4c ** 176
206 Nelson's Column 5b 5a * 176
207 Dival's Diversion 6a 5b * 242
208 Funnel 4a 4a ** 291
209 Coolcaringer 6a+ 5b * 21
210 UN 6b+ 5c *** 121
211 Chelsea Traverse none 4a 20
212 Wells's Reach 3a 3a 110
213 The Wrecker 7b+ 6c * 2
214 One of Our Buzzards is Missing 7a+ 6b 3
215 Harden Gully 3a 3a 81
  Larchant Wall
217 Sylvie's Slab 5a 4c 215
218 Six Foot 5a 4c * 256
219 Larchant 6a+ 5a ** 358
220 Hennessy Heights 6b 5b *** 299
221 August Variation 6b+ 5c * 72
222 October 5a 4c * 202
Climb name Grade
223 Fragile Arete 5c 5a * 143
224 A Process of Elimination f6B *** 14
225 Basilisk 4b 4b  
226 Acromantula 4a 4a  
227 Centaurs 6a+ 5b  
228 Firenze 6b+ 5c  
229 Pop's Slab 5a 4c *  
230 Pop's Chimney 5a 4c * 42
  Finale
232 Fragile Wall 4a 4a * 202
233 Escalator 6a 5a * 69
234 Elevator 6a 5a * 33
235 Renison Gully 4b 4b * 71
236 Finale 7a+ 6a *** 25
237 Alka 5a 4c ** 207
238 Morpheus 6c+ 6a 7
239 Seltzer 6b 5b ** 150
240 Encore 6b+ 5c * 26
241 Zugabe 7a 6b * 6
242 Otra! 6b 5c * 3
  Beginners' Buttress
244 November 3a 3a * 84
245 Baby Boulder 4c 4c * 48
246 G Force 6b 5c *  
247 Easy Gully 2a 2a 81
248 Ballerina 4b 4b * 92
249 Red Peg 3a 3a * 117
250 Claire 3c 3c * 97
251 Barham Boulder 4b 4b * 60
252 Rad's Cliff 5c 5a * 45
253 Rad's Cliff Direct 5c 5a *  
  Nealon's Buttress
255 Bovril - Left-Hand 6a+ 5a  
256 Bovril 5a 4c * 100
257 Wally 5a 4c * 72
258 Oliver's Twist 6b 5c ** 48
259 Nealon's 4c 4c ** 140
260 A Lady in Mink 6c+ 6a 15
261 A Lady in Mink - Variation none 4c 1
  Hargreaves Buttress
263 Whimper 3a 3a *  
264 Hillary 2a 2a  
265 AS Peck 3a 3a  
266 Hargreaves 3a 3a  
267 Mercator's Projection 4a 4a ** 10
268 Simpson 2a 2a  
269 Steck 2c 2c  
270 Healy f2+ 3
271 Ben f4+ 6
272 Wilson f2 4
273 Heath f2 4
274 Tullis f2+ *  
275 Lino f4  
  Woodland Buttress
277 Pat's Progress 4a 4a 12
278 Dubonnet 4b 4b 11
279 Williams Layback 3a 3a 15
280 Free Willy 3a 3a * 12
281 Index 4b 4b 13
282 Index Direct f6A ** 3
283 Gore Brothers f5 1
  Traverses
285 Girdle Traverse
-
none 6b ** 6
286 Lawson Traverse none 4a * 20
287 The Lawson Extension none 5b 8
  Southern Sandstone Bouldering Guide Problems
289 003 SSB (Bowles) f3 2
290 023 SSB (Bowles) f6B+ 3
291 031 SSB (Bowles) f4+ 1
292 034 SSB (Bowles) f4+ ** 5
293 035 SSB (Bowles) f4+ 3
294 036 SSB (Bowles) f5+ ** 1
295 040 SSB (Bowles) f6C ** 3
296 041 SSB (Bowles) f7A+ * 4
297 042 SSB (Bowles) f6B 40
298 043 SSB (Bowles) f6A+ 22
299 047 SSB (Bowles) V4+ 1
300 056 SSB (Bowles) f6B 1
301 059 SSB (Bowles) f3 * 3
302 060 SSB (Bowles) V0 11
303 061 SSB (Bowles)
-
f4 4
304 062 SSB (Bowles) f6A+ 8
305 063 SSB (Bowles) f6B 3
306 064 SSB (Bowles) f4 8
307 065 SSB (Bowles) V0+ 7
308 066 SSB (Bowles) V0- 7
309 068 SSB (Bowles) f6C 2
310 073 SSB (Bowles) V4+ 1
311 077 SSB (Bowles) f6B+ ** 7
312 078 SSB (Bowles) f6A 1
313 079 SSB (Bowles) f6A 2
314 086 SSB (Bowles) f6C+ * 4
315 086 SSB (Bowles) - Variantion f5+ 7
316 107 SSB (Bowles) f6A 15
317 108 SSB (Bowles) f6A 4
318 109 SSB (Bowles) f6A+ 4
319 110 SSB (Bowles) f6B+ 1
320 112 SSB (Bowles) f5+ 7
321 113 SSB (Bowles) f3 1
322 114 SSB (Bowles) f5 2
323 117 SSB (Bowles) f4+ 1
324 118 SSB (Bowles) f4 1
325 121 SSB (Bowles) f6C 3
  Personal Variations
327 PV - Lucky Strike f7A ** 3
328 PV - Chalet Slab Far Left To Chimney none 3a 6
329 PV - Sapper (Inspiration alternative) none 5b ** 41
330 PV - Sapper (overhang start) f5+ 39
331 PV - Them monkey thing Left f7A+ * 2
332 PV - The Lady in Mink's Left Glove none 6b 2

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