UKC

Climbs 344
Rocktype Sandstone (soft)
Altitude 109m a.s.l
Faces S

On the girdle traverse, Bowles Rocks © John Stainforth

Crag features

Routes up to 10m, either for soloing or toproping. Many excellent routes including Pig's Nose, Larchant, Fandango, Digitalis, Hate, Funnel, The Thing. Owned by Bowles Outdoor Pursuits Centre - there is a charge of £5 for adults before 5pm, £4 after 5pm and £3 for children. All funds go to upkeep of the rocks, toilet facilities on site as well as providing outdoor activities for disadvantaged young people. It is less than one minute walk from the car park to the crag.

A carpet sample or mat is essential for cleaning your feet before you climb - this significantly reduces wear on the crag.

As with all sandstone crags, arrange a top-rope belay with a non-stretch sling and ensure the Karabiner hangs over the edge of the crag and that your moving rope does not come into contact with the rock.

Bowles is keen to do more for climbers and any feedback is welcome - email development@bowles.ac

Approach notes

From the A26 between Tunbridge Wells and Crowborough. The turnoff is about 1km (0.6mi) after Eridge station on the left if going towards Crowborough.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

Southern Sandstone Climbs

The Southern Sandstone Rockfax covers the climbing situated in the Southeast of England on the borders of Kent and East Sussex.The book covers the climbing and bouldering in the usual Rockfax style - big full-colour photo-topos, detailed maps and full text descriptions - all lavishly supported by some great action photography.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Southern sandstone bouldering (2012)
Southern Sandstone (2008)

Out of print:
For teenage climbers, this in NOT a good crag! Over 18s only, unless you go with your parents. Other climbers over 18 don't count, apparently...
Spoursr - 27/Jan/15
What about the direct slab next to "manita". "white verdict" I think it's called, 6b.... I can't see it on your list! http://79.170.44.210/climbingvideos.co.uk/crags/SS/sand/bowles/photos/geezerdave.jpg
rotax123 - 01/Aug/12
SandC: therer isn't an easy way of doing this, as far as I can see, unless ther problems are given names. I'll dig into it a bit more and see if I can sort something out. Rob (Crag Moderator).
Rob Naylor - 17/Mar/12
any way of getting the boulder problems added to the lists for my logbook? They dont really have names which is the problem.
SandC - 17/Mar/12
On my last visit I was sad to see a group of three climbers savagely brushing Sandman (6a) THIS ENLARGES THE HOLDS and irreversibly damages the rock! Please respect the rock by cleaning it sparingly and as gently as possible. Please read the ten commandments of sandstone (on the BMC site) to protect this fragile rock
mr random - 26/Aug/07
easier to get to than Harrisons but not as varied.
Ben - 05/Oct/04
Ignore johny, he clearly has a damaged intelligence.
mike - 17/Jul/04
Seen so many northern and indoor wusses come down and fail. Ha, ha, ha. The rock requires a very special technique you only acquire on sandstone, hard or soft. This stuff is as soft as it gets and it eats twats for breakfast
JoHNY - 09/Feb/04
Become very eroded this year, a lot of hold breakages. Be careful! And don't climb on it when wet...
Sandman - 26/Dec/03
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Ski Slope Boulders
2 Window Smasher f2+ * 2
3 Naughty Sporty f2 6
4 Spice f2 * 6
5 One in the Pink f2 3
6 Heidi f4+ 9
7 Referendum f4+ 5
8 British Bulldog f4+ * 8
9 Bull's Nose f4+ * 22
10 Toreador f4+ 2
11 Badger's Head f3+ * 25
12 Badgering the Badger f2 10
13 End of it All f2 2
14 Candyland f4 1
15 Redwood f3+ 2
  Chalet Slab Area
17 Hibiscus 5a 4c ** 9
18 Helter Skelter 6c 5c 23
19 Chalet Slab - Chimney f3 3
20 Chalet Slab Left 3c 3c ** 81
21 Chalet Slab Direct 6b 5c ** 36
22 Chalet Slab Direct - Variation none 4c * 37
23 Chalet Slab Right 4c 4c * 57
24 Mumbo Jumbo 6b 5b * 2
25 Mohrenkop 6b+ 5c ** 17
26 Two Step 6b 5b 6
27 Vito f2 2
28 Michael f2+ 1
29 Fredo - Left f2+ 1
30 Fredo - Right f2+ 1
31 Luca f2+ 1
32 Sonny f2 2
33 Salvatore f2 2
34 Emillio f2 3
35 Tom f2 2
36 Carlo f4+ 1
37 Enzo f2 2
  Umbilicus
39 Roman Nose 5a 4c * 20
40 Umbilicus 6c 6a ** 14
41 Fallen Angels 7a 6a ** 2
42 Jean Genie 6b+ 5c 1
43 Geoff's Route 7a 6b * 1
44 Geoffrey Moon Esquire 7a 6b  
45 Blue Moon 7a 6a * 3
46 991.8 Days 6c 6a 1
47 Court's Climb 4c 4c 14
  Scirocco Slab
49 Grotty Groove 3c 3c 36
50 Grotty Slab f2+ 1
51 Running Jump 4a 4a * 59
52 Scirocco Wall 4b 4b ** 6
53 Scirocco Slab 5a 4c ** 118
54 Netwall 4c 4c * 125
55 Knitwall f7B 11
56 Corner Layback 6a+ 5a ** 97
  Knucklebones
58 Aphrodite 6c 6a * 4
59 Zoom 7a 6b * 3
60 Santa's Claws 5a 4c * 82
61 Maybe when you're older f7B 16
62 Maybe When Eli’s Older f7C 1
63 Knucklebones 7a+ 6b * 1
64 Coast to Coast 7a 6b  
65 Chelsea Chimney 3a 3a 25
66 The Firm none 6a 1
67 Reclaimed none 5c 3
  Reclamation Slab
69 Reclamation Gully 3a 3a 83
70 Reclamation Slab Left 3c 3c * 172
71 Reclamation Slap 6b+ 5c * 59
72 Reclamation Slab Right 3a 3a ** 319
73 Reclamation Slab Right - Eliminate none 5b 15
74 Mental Balance 6c 6a * 5
75 Cenotaph Corner II 6a+ 5b 8
  Banana
77 High Traverse 5a 4c * 45
78 Slyme Cryme 6c+ 6a 3
79 Banana Hammock f6C ** 21
80 Banana 6c 6a *** 277
81 Proboscis 6c+ 6a 4
82 Drosophila 6a+ 5b *** 335
83 Urban Jock 7a 6b * 3
84 Babylon 5a 4c 63
  Fandango Wall
86 T.N.T. 6b 5c * 21
87 Coathanger 6b+ 5c *** 131
88 Camel f6B+ ** 12
89 Station to Station 7a+ 6b *  
90 Fandango 6c+ 6a *** 152
91 Fandango BP - Sit Start f6A+ ** 28
92 Fandango Central 7a+ 6a * 6
93 Fandango Right Hand 6c+ 6a *** 69
94 Sonic Blue f7B+ ** 15
95 Phasis f7C ** 13
96 Face me f8A * 1
97 Twisted Vegas f7B ** 3
98 Nicotine Alley f7A *** 95
99 Tobacco Road f6B+ *** 81
100 Tobacco Road Extension f6B+ *** 12
101 Poff Pastry 7a+ 6b * 2
102 Pastry 6c 5c ** 13
103 Skiffle 4a 4a * 151
104 Sugarplum f6A ** 7
105 Icarus 6c+ 6a * 4
  Kemp's Delight
107 Orr Traverse 6b 5c ** 46
108 Mick's Wall Arete 6c+ 6a ** 64
109 Mick's Wall 6b 5b ** 125
110 London Pride 7b+ 6c *  
111 Kemp's Delight 5a 4c ** 244
112 Mick's Wall Variation 6c+ 6a * 22
Climb name Grade
113 Grotto Chimney 4c 4c 55
  Serenade Arete Area
115 Patella 7a 6a ** 61
116 Kinnard 7a+ 6b * 7
117 Nutella 7b 6b * 3
118 Inclination to Sin f6A+ 8
119 Resistance f5+ 19
120 Minimum Orr f5 * 17
121 Maximum Orr f6A+ ** 12
122 Temptation 7a 6b *** 59
123 Digitalis 6c+ 6a *** 80
124 Serenade Arete 6c+ 6a *** 96
125 Inspiration 6b+ 5c *** 102
126 The Thing 7b 6b * 23
127 Jabba f4+ 4
128 The Fridge f6C+ 5
129 Juanita 6c 6a * 71
130 One Nighter 7c 6c * 3
131 Sapper 5b 5a *** 372
132 Burlap 6a+ 5b *** 263
133 Burlap Eliminate 6c 6a * 25
134 Yoyo 4c 4c ** 409
135 Yo Yo - Variation 6b ** 26
136 White Verdict 7a+ 6b * 42
137 The Ly'in 7a 6b * 4
138 Meager's Right Hand 6b 5c * 106
  Salamander Slab
140 Sing Sing 3c 3c * 165
141 Manita 6b+ 5c ** 47
142 Jackie 6a+ 5b ** 147
143 Jackie Direct f4+ 3
144 Jackie Alternative Finish f4+ 9
145 Murph's Mount 6a+ 5a * 67
146 Nero 6b+ 5c ** 27
147 Hellbender f6A * 1
148 Flatwoods f6A+ *  
149 Salamander Slab 6b+ 5c ** 36
150 The Twilight Zone f6B  
151 Perspiration Direct 6c 5c *** 1
152 Perspiration 6c 5c *** 95
153 Peter's Perseverance 6a 5a ** 35
154 Pegasus
-
none 5a *** 26
155 Hidrosis f6A ** 1
156 Boiling Point 7a+ 6b * 2
157 Them Monkey Things 7c+ 6c * 3
158 Carbide Finger 7c 6c *** 11
159 Cardboard Box 7a+ 6b ** 34
160 Thieving Gypsies 6c+ 6a * 7
161 Swastika 6b 5b ** 33
162 Bubble Wrap 7a+ 6b *  
163 Nightmare 6c+ 6a ** 14
164 Recurring Nightmare 7b+ 6b  
  Range Wall
166 Abracadabra 6b 5b *** 126
167 Conjuror 6c+ 6a 45
168 Kara f6A 21
169 Ricochet 5b 5a ** 241
170 Four-by-Two 5c 5a ** 249
171 Pull Through 6a 5b ** 269
172 Pull Through - Direct Start none 6a 17
173 Lee Enfield 6a+ 5b ** 177
174 Target Direct f6B 15
175 Target 6c 5c ** 104
176 The Big Stretch 6c+ 5c 7
177 Cave Crack 5a 4c ** 123
178 Cave Crack - Cave Wall Variation none 5b 10
179 Cave Crack - Variation Finish none 5c 6
  Pig's Nose Area
181 E.S. Cadet Nose 6a+ 5b ** 269
182 ES Cadet Nose Sit Start f6B 6a 18
183 Skallagrigg 7b+ 6c 2
184 Devaluation 6a+ 5b *** 512
185 Sandman 7a+ 6b ** 84
186 Stoneman 7b 6b  
187 Devour f6B+ ** 6
188 Charlie's Chimney 4a 4a * 92
189 Love 7a 6a * 26
190 Hate 6c+ 6a *** 216
191 Upside Downies 7a 6b * 10
192 Pig's Ear 6b+ 5c *** 367
193 Watson-Watt (Eliminate) none 6b 4
194 T.T. 6a+ 5b ** 260
195 Pig's Nose 5c 5a *** 749
196 Koffler 6c 6a ** 74
197 Gully Wall 6a+ 5a * 41
  Funnel
199 Birch Crack 3c 3c * 114
200 Chris 6b 5c * 64
201 Kennard's Climb 4a 4a 150
202 Rib 6b 5c 90
203 Love Without Resistance f6B ** 1
204 Dib 4a 4a 141
205 The Scouter none 3a 54
206 The Scouter Direct 4c 4c * 8
207 Corbett Slab 4c 4c ** 185
208 Nelson's Column 5b 5a * 189
209 Dival's Diversion 6a 5b * 255
210 Funnel 4a 4a ** 313
211 Coolcaringer 6a+ 5b * 26
212 UN 6b+ 5c *** 133
213 Chelsea Traverse none 4a 20
214 Wells's Reach 3a 3a 116
215 The Wrecker 7b+ 6c * 2
216 One of Our Buzzards is Missing 7a+ 6b 4
217 Harden Gully 3a 3a 90
  Larchant Wall
219 Sylvie's Slab 5a 4c 237
220 Six Foot 5a 4c * 282
221 Larchant 6a+ 5a ** 398
222 Hennessy Heights 6b 5b *** 325
223 August Variation 6b+ 5c * 78
224 October 5a 4c * 220
Climb name Grade
225 Fragile Arete 5c 5a * 156
226 A Process of Elimination f6B *** 15
227 Basilisk 4b 4b 2
228 Acromantula 4a 4a 2
229 Centaurs 6a+ 5b 2
230 Firenze 6b+ 5c 2
231 Pop's Slab 5a 4c * 4
232 Pop's Chimney 5a 4c * 49
  Finale
234 Fragile Wall 4a 4a * 216
235 Escalator 6a 5a * 73
236 Elevator 6a 5a * 35
237 Renison Gully 4b 4b * 79
238 Finale 7a+ 6a *** 27
239 Alka 5a 4c ** 218
240 Morpheus 6c+ 6a 8
241 Seltzer 6b 5b ** 155
242 Encore 6b+ 5c * 27
243 Zugabe 7a 6b * 6
244 Otra! 6b 5c * 3
  Beginners' Buttress
246 November 3a 3a * 93
247 Baby Boulder 4c 4c * 53
248 G Force 6b 5c * 2
249 Easy Gully 2a 2a 87
250 Ballerina 4b 4b * 98
251 Red Peg 3a 3a * 126
252 Claire 3c 3c * 100
253 Barham Boulder 4b 4b * 61
254 Rad's Cliff 5c 5a * 46
255 Rad's Cliff Direct 5c 5a * 2
  Nealon's Buttress
257 Bovril - Left-Hand 6a+ 5a 3
258 Bovril 5a 4c * 108
259 Wally 5a 4c * 85
260 Oliver's Twist 6b 5c ** 52
261 Nealon's 4c 4c ** 155
262 A Lady in Mink 6c+ 6a 16
263 A Lady in Mink - Variation none 4c 1
  Hargreaves Buttress
265 Whimper 3a 3a * 1
266 Hillary 2a 2a 1
267 AS Peck 3a 3a 4
268 Bonington f5+  
269 Hargreaves 3a 3a 5
270 Mercator's Projection 4a 4a ** 15
271 Simpson 2a 2a 1
272 Steck 2c 2c 2
273 Healy f2+ 5
274 Ben f4+ 8
275 Wilson f2 6
276 Heath f2 5
277 Tullis f2+ * 2
278 Lino f4 1
  Woodland Buttress
280 Pat's Progress 4a 4a 13
281 Dubonnet 4b 4b 12
282 Williams Layback 3a 3a 17
283 Free Willy 3a 3a * 13
284 Index 4b 4b 14
285 Index Direct f6A ** 3
286 Gore Brothers f5 3
  Traverses
288 Girdle Traverse
-
none 6b ** 6
289 Lawson Traverse none 4a * 20
290 The Lawson Extension none 5b 8
  Southern Sandstone Bouldering Guide Problems
292 003 SSB (Bowles) f3 2
293 023 SSB (Bowles) f6B+ 4
294 031 SSB (Bowles) f4+ 1
295 034 SSB (Bowles) f4+ ** 5
296 035 SSB (Bowles) f4+ 3
297 036 SSB (Bowles) f5+ ** 2
298 040 SSB (Bowles) f6C ** 4
299 041 SSB (Bowles) f7A+ * 4
300 042 SSB (Bowles) f6B 41
301 047 SSB (Bowles) V4+ 2
302 056 SSB (Bowles) f6B 1
303 059 SSB (Bowles) f3 * 4
304 060 SSB (Bowles) V0 12
305 061 SSB (Bowles)
-
f4 5
306 062 SSB (Bowles) f6A+ 9
307 063 SSB (Bowles) f6B 3
308 064 SSB (Bowles) f4 9
309 065 SSB (Bowles) V0+ 8
310 066 SSB (Bowles) V0- 7
311 068 SSB (Bowles) f6C 2
312 073 SSB (Bowles) V4+ 2
313 077 SSB (Bowles) f6B+ ** 7
314 078 SSB (Bowles) f6A 1
315 079 SSB (Bowles) f6A 2
316 086 SSB (Bowles) f6C+ * 4
317 086 SSB (Bowles) - Variantion f5+ 7
318 107 SSB (Bowles) f6A 16
319 108 SSB (Bowles) f6A 5
320 109 SSB (Bowles) f6A+ 5
321 110 SSB (Bowles) f6B+ 1
322 112 SSB (Bowles) f5+ 7
323 113 SSB (Bowles) f3 1
324 114 SSB (Bowles) f5 2
325 117 SSB (Bowles) f4+ 1
326 118 SSB (Bowles) f4 1
327 121 SSB (Bowles) f6C 3
  Personal Variations
329 PV - Lucky Strike f7A ** 3
330 PV - Chalet Slab Far Left To Chimney none 3a 6
331 PV - Sapper (Inspiration alternative) none 5b ** 43
332 PV - Sapper (overhang start) f5+ 39
333 PA - Joyride f7C+ 1
334 PV - Them monkey thing Left f7A+ * 2
335 PV - The Lady in Mink's Left Glove none 6b 2
336 Kalashnikov none 5b *** 2
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderators Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteers emmaharrington and daimon