Climbs 403
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 350m a.s.l
Faces SW

Sunset soloing on the grit. Ali on Hovis (E1 5c) at Crookrise, Yorkshire. © Jamie Moss

Crag features

One of Yorkshire's premier crags. South facing, quick drying and composed of best quality grit. Fine routes and boulder problems across a wide grade range - so something for just about everyone. Recently aquired by BMC.

Approach notes

Park at Embsay Reservoir, SD 999544, then walk along the side of the reservoir to the access point onto Barden Moor. Cross the stile onto the moor and follow the path steeply uphill for a few hundred metres passing the Pathside and  Approach Boulders eventually following the wall up onto the moor. Keep on a short way a until a number of stiles (5 of them) are reached enabling the wall to be crossed to reach the rocks.  The first stile is above End Slab.

Rockfax App

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Guidebooks

Northern England

The book is a selected route and crag guide although it still manages to pack over 2350 routes between its covers, spread across 44 crags. The main focus is on routes of all grades from Moderate to E9, but the best bouldering is also described.
More info
Scoop buttress has recently had a clean and is well worth a visit.
petellis - 22/Mar/09
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Fairies Chest
2 Dave's Wall f7B+ ** 1
3 Problem 2, Hobgoblin Boulder f7A * 3
4 The Groove E4 6b ** 2
5 Pixie Tits
-
f7B+ 14
6 Pixie Tits (standing start) f6C 30
7 Gnome's Nips f6C+ 2
8 Fairy Dust f8A+  
9 Bathycolpian Dreams f8A+ **  
10 Troll's Arete f7A+ 10
11 Full of Sprites f7C *  
12 Pocket Rockets f7A * 1
  The Trig Point Boulders
  Boulder 1
15 Trig point boulder 1,problem 1
-
f7A * 1
16 The Flake SS
-
V7 1
  Boulder 2
18 The Bulge f6B+ ** 5
19 The Jam V6  
20 The Break V6  
21 Mantel f5+ 12
22 Break Traverse f6B * 1
23 Jam Tomorrow f6C * 1
24 Left Arete Sitter f5 3
25 Right Arete
-
f3+ 9
26 The Wall f3+ 5
27 The Wall (Arete) f6A+ 2
28 Slopey Breaks Right Arete f5 3
29 Slopey Breaks (Trig Point boulder 2) f5 3
30 The Slots f5+ * 1
  Boulder 3
32 The Undercut f6C 1
33 Broken Crystal f6C 3
34 Broken crystal SS f7A 1
35 The Left Side f4 5
36 Second Run f5 1
37 The Middle f6B+ 6
38 Flake Slab f6A+ 2
  Boulder 4
40 The Wall f7A * 2
41 Neat Arete. f6A+ ** 2
42 Dino Might? f6C * 1
43 Glory Wall
-
f6A 3
44 Curving Arete
-
f5 * 8
45 The Flake f3 * 9
  Evasion Buttress
47 Aversion E3 6b *  
48 Avoidance S 4a 3
49 Evasion VS 5a 1
  Green Buttress
51 Wailing Wall HVS 5a  
52 Agag E2 5c 1
53 Agag Arete E1 5b  
54 Greenland P E3 6b  
55 Green Fingers E2 5c  
56 Green Velvet E2 5c *  
  Scoop Buttress
58 Karjala
-
f7A 69
59 Karjala Right f6B 2
60 The Scoop HS 4b 17
61 Mindless HVS 5a * 1
62 Mindbender E1 5b * 7
63 Scoop Wall
-
MVS 4a 11
  SADCOCS Boulder
65 The Left -Hand Rib f5+ 11
66 Hanging Flake f6B+ 7
67 Sadcocs Wall
-
f6C 43
68 Middleish f4+ 2
69 Right Hand End f5+ * 24
70 Traverse Big Break On Sadcocks Wall f5+ 66
71 Sadcocs Low Traverse f6C 5
72 Morokolli V7  
73 They Call Me Mr Tibbs
-
V6 1
74 The Defiant One
-
V8+  
  Slingsby's Pinnacle
76 Streaklet E3 6b 4
77 Rushlight S 4a 150
78 Rushlight (variant) MVS 4b 19
79 Crease VS 5a ** 154
80 Crease Direct - Route f6A+ ** 167
81 Crease Arete E2 6a 8
82 Crease Direct Start - Boulder Problem f6A 109
83 Crease Direct Slab f6B * 7
84 The Fly f7B+ ** 20
85 Fly ArĂȘte f7A ** 2
86 Chimney Buttress HS 4b * 51
87 Premium White
-
E1 5b * 3
88 Fear No Evil
-
E2 5c * 1
89 Slingsby's Chimney HVD 4a ** 95
90 Massive Attack E5 6b * 7
91 Small Brown E4 6b *** 32
92 Small Brown Direct E4 6a *** 3
93 Mighty White E4 6b ** 13
94 Wholemeal
-
E3 6a * 15
95 Hovis E1 5c ** 174
96 Hovis Direct f6B * 66
97 Hovis Super Direct f6C ** 48
98 Flake Wall HS 4b * 179
99 Flake Wall Direct Start
-
VS 4c 5
100 Mothers Milk
-
VS 9
101 Spellbinder HVS 5a * 106
102 Flake
-
S 110
103 Moonshadow
-
HVS 5b * 8
104 Slingsby's Girdle
-
HVS 5a ** 2
  Left Hand Edge Boulders
106 Ron's Crack 2 E3 6b * 57
107 Barry King Size f7A 154
108 Barry King Size SD f7A+ 51
109 Gibber Ramp f5+ 21
  Footprint Boulder
111 Footprint Arete Lefthand HVS 5a 8
112 Footprint Arete Righthand MVS 4b 14
113 Footprint Slab MVS 4b 8
  Matterhorn Boulder
115 Layback Crack VS 4c 1
  Happy Landings Boulder
117 Happy Landings f6B+ 10
118 The Flake f6B+ 9
119 Scoop f6C+ 10
120 The Rib f6B 7
121 Gritty Pockets f5+ 9
122 Uphill Struggle f7A * 5
123 The Arete f6A+  
  Ruffian Boulder
125 Crucifix f7A 12
126 Sole Fusion
-
f8A 6
127 The Ruffian
-
VS 4c 29
128 The Urchin
-
VS 4c 17
129 Fagin
-
V7  
130 The Ruffian Traverse
-
V7  
  Gentian Boulder
132 Jason's Roof f8A *** 19
133 Sideliner f8A ** 7
134 Gentian
-
S 9
135 Sunshine Slab Lefthand VS 4c 9
136 Thin Air HVS 5a * 16
137 Sunshine Slab Righthand MVS 4a 16
138 Jason's Roof Dan's Extension
-
V12  
  Sunrise Boulder
140 Tow the Line f3+ * 1
141 Attachment Theory f6C+ ** 1
142 Mercury Rising f6C+ ** 1
143 Sunrise Slab f4+ * 1
144 Captain Crook f3+ * 1
  Heather Wall
146 Left Hand Route
-
VS 15
147 Central Route MVS 4b 5
148 Right-Hand Route VS 4c 6
  Farewell slab
150 Stepping Out VD 2
151 Born Again D 3
152 High Step Climb D 5
Climb name Grade
153 Quashqui
-
HVS 5b * 1
154 Walkover E3 6a ** 15
155 A Lifetime's Dream E4 6b * 4
156 Walker's Farewell HVS 5b ** 102
157 Pen Sketches
-
E2 6a 4
158 Wonderloaf E2 5b * 13
159 Ice Fall
-
E2 5b * 2
160 Winter Traverse E1 5a * 5
161 Long Day
-
HVS 5a * 8
162 Leaf Crack and Slab
-
VS 4c * 19
163 Straight Crack HS 4a 10
  Slip 'n' Slide
165 Knuckle Crack
-
VS 4c * 26
166 Knuckleduster VS 4c 18
167 Green Crack
-
VS 4b 22
168 Duck 'n' Dive E5 6b * 2
169 Slip 'n' Slide E6 6a *** 32
170 Sit and slide f7B *  
171 Detachment Theory E8 6b/c *** 2
172 Sunstroke Direct HVS 5b * 6
173 Sunstroke
-
HVS 5a * 14
174 Crooked chimney
-
VD 16
175 Bull's Horns
-
VS 4c * 22
176 Bull's Eye
-
VS 4c * 4
177 Narrow Crack
-
MS 11
  Shelf Buttress
179 Chockstone Chimney VD 82
180 Buster Direct HVS 5b * 42
181 Buster S 4a ** 234
182 Open Chimney VD * 103
183 The Forager VS 4c * 87
184 The Shelf E2 5b *** 176
185 Elm Tree Wall
-
E3 6a * 9
186 Long Climb HS 4b *** 476
187 Lyndhurst E1 5b ** 50
188 Cat's Whiskers VS 4c * 178
  Central Slab
190 The Jolly Pleasant Scramble
-
M 53
191 Weirdo
-
f6A+  
192 Arsenic Slab S 4a ** 463
193 Arsenic Slab Direct f6A * 16
194 Old Lace HVS 5a ** 259
195 Old Lace Direct Start
-
HVS 5c 33
196 Old Lace Direct
-
f4+ 4
197 Arsenic Traverse
-
f6C+  
198 Winter Rain E2 5c 69
199 Diagonal Crack VD ** 621
200 Central Slab Right Hand (YGB prob 3) f3 3
201 East of The River VS 5a 112
202 Octopus S 4a * 407
203 Octopus Direct VS 4c * 276
204 Octopuses Right Hand VS 4b 27
205 Leaning Tower Arete
-
f6C+ 3
206 Razor f7C *** 17
207 Perplexity
-
HVS 6a 3
208 Induction
-
D 33
209 Grovelhog
-
VD 19
210 Face, Arete and Wall Climb VD * 130
211 Gallowgate
-
f7B 2
212 War Cry
-
f7B+ 1
213 Running Battle
-
f7B 1
214 Indirect Little Crack
-
f6B+ 8
215 Crack Climb
-
VD 14
216 Easter Crack VD 18
217 Crookrise Crack
-
S 4a * 37
218 Trunk
-
f6A 3
219 Problem Buttress HS 4a 25
220 Marginal
-
f6A+ 3
221 Autumn
-
f6B 2
222 Hard Candy
-
f6C  
223 Pinch and Push
-
f6A  
  Craven Buttress
225 Smooth Arete
-
f6C 6
226 Craven Mantel
-
f5 15
227 Craven Slab
-
f5+ 10
228 Craven Right f5+ 3
229 Moulson's Climb S 4a 37
230 A Reach too Far E3 6a  
231 Longlurch E2 5c * 10
232 Long Lurch Variation SDS f7B+ 1
233 Griffith's Chimney HS 4b ** 45
234 Chimney Variation
-
VS 5a 9
235 Walker's Wall HVS 5a * 153
236 Walker's Wall (direct start) f5+ * 9
237 Walker's Wall Chimney Variant HVS 5a * 37
238 Craven Crack VS 4c * 242
239 Jug Wall
-
HS 4b 12
240 Frost Animals
-
HVS 5b 15
241 Frost Animals
-
f5+ 3
242 West Wall Climb HS 4b * 174
243 Malcolm's Route
-
VS 4c * 19
244 Sole Direct
-
E3 6c 2
245 Sole Direct
-
f7A  
246 The Sole HVS 5b *** 319
247 The Sole Start
-
f5+ 8
248 Family Matters HVS 5b ** 47
249 Mother's Little Helper E2 5c * 24
250 Sole of Discretion
-
f7B+  
251 Old Sole Traverse
-
f6C 2
252 Slab and Nose S 4b * 114
253 Slab and Nose Variations HVS 5a * 55
254 Slab and Nose Arete
-
f5 4
255 Craven Traverse
-
f6A+ 17
256 Full Craven Traverse
-
f6B+ 9
257 Throttle Stop
-
f7B+  
258 Gritstone Gecko
-
f6C+ 1
  Chockstone Crack
260 Kendo Nagasaki
-
f7B+  
261 Bilberry Crack
-
VS 4c * 83
262 Bilberry Eliminate
-
f6B+  
263 Chockstone Crack
-
D * 157
264 Friction Slab
-
MVS 4b 8
265 Hidden Wall
-
VS 4c 4
266 Bilberry Wall
-
VS 5a 7
267 Diet Pepsi f6B 93
268 Pepsi Max
-
f7A+ 4
269 Gently Does It
-
f6A 2
270 Ryan's Folly
-
D 33
  Ledge Buttress
272 Traverse and Crack VD * 157
273 Basic Training
-
S 24
274 Tiger Rag HS 4c * 121
275 Side Salad
-
VS 5a 1
276 Leaning Wall
-
VS 5a 6
277 Ledge Buttress VS 4c 12
278 Twin Cracks
-
VS 4c * 28
  End Slab
280 Dewhurst Mill
-
VS 4c * 11
281 Overhead Projection VS 4c 2
282 Safe From Harm
-
f7A+  
283 Twilight
-
f6A  
284 Twilight Zone
-
f7A+  
285 Superlight
-
f7B+  
286 Anonymous Slab S 4a 1
287 Dirty Tackle
-
S 16
288 Trivial Pursuit
-
VD 29
289 Climb In Silence E2 6a ** 1
290 Route 3 S 4a * 126
291 Peep Show
-
f5 1
292 Ultra
-
f6B+ 2
293 Right Return f7A+ 2
294 Control f6B 2
295 Route 4 HVS 5c * 78
296 Cold Call f7B+ 1
297 Stone Road f6A 13
298 Route 2.5 HVS 5a * 152
299 The Help f6B+ 5
300 Route 2 VS 5a ** 552
301 Route 1 VD 251
302 Softly Spoken f4+ 7
303 Little Easy f3 9
304 Edge VS 5a * 429
Climb name Grade
305 Short Lived f3 5
306 End Slab Traverse f6B  
307 Master Blaster f7C  
308 Finger Blaster f6C  
309 A vicious Slice of Mango VS 4c 3
310 A Malicious Cut of Grapefruit HVS 5a 2
311 Facade S 4c 5
  Cave Crack
313 Cave Crack
-
VD 71
314 Midget Morsel
-
MS 31
315 Shelter Stone
-
HS 4b 29
  Kumbu Region
  Trench Foot Wall
318 Trench Foot f6C+ 5
  Pitou Wall
320 Fitou
-
E3 6b 2
321 Pitou
-
E4 6b  
322 Impossible Wall
-
f4 4
  Trading Places Boulder
324 A Corner of the World f6A * 1
325 Trading Places f6A+ * 1
  Trojan Roof
327 Left Arete Rising f3 1
328 Siege Wall f4 1
329 War Horse f6A 1
330 Trojan Roof
-
f8A  
  Big Nose
332 Big Nose P1 f4 2
333 Big Nose P2 f5 4
334 Big Nose P3 f3 5
335 Big Nose P4 f5 2
336 Big Nose P5 f4 4
337 Big Nose P6 f3 5
  The Everest Boulder
339 High Plains Drifter
-
f7A 2
340 Ron's Crack I f6C 16
341 Palm Gem
-
f6C+ 14
342 Sultan of Bling
-
f6B+ 1
343 Grooved Arete (AKA Left Arete)
-
f6A 5
344 Left Edge f6A 2
345 Undercut f6B **  
346 Right Centre f6C 2
347 Right Arete f4+ 8
348 Fly By Wire
-
f7B+  
349 Renegade Piper
-
f7B+  
350 Rampant Bilberry f6C+ 1
  Khumbu Cont.
352 Grotty Slab Sitter f5 1
353 Easy Groove f3 1
354 Nice Slabby Arete Sitter f6A 1
355 Easy Scoop Sitter f5 1
356 Jug Handles f4+ 1
  Pitter Pat
358 The Rose Bowl f5 7
359 Bowl Arete f4 10
360 Pitter Patter f3 10
361 Pitter Patter P2 f5 5
362 Pitter Patter P3 f4 6
363 Twisted f7A+ 1
364 Moon Landing f5 * 4
  Buckley Boulder
366 Lilac Wine
-
V8+  
367 Last Goodbye
-
V9  
368 Mono Pin
-
V7  
369 Sugar Spun
-
V7  
  Sugar Spun
371 Sugar Sugar
-
f3 3
372 Sugar Groove
-
f5 3
  Meat Cleaver
374 Meat Cleaver
-
V7  
375 Dream Weaver
-
V6 1
  Cracked Slab
377 Cracked Slab
-
f5+ 1
378 Runnel
-
f4 1
379 Jugs
-
f5 1
380 Soft Option
-
f6B  
  Pine Boulder
382 Steady Arete
-
f4 1
383 Carlsson Arete
-
V7  
384 Pine Arete
-
f6C+  
385 Gordini
-
f7B+  
386 Pine Groove
-
f6B+  
387 Senna
-
f6C  
388 Wharfe Traverse
-
f6C+  
  Woodside Buttress
390 Wallflower
-
VS 4b  
391 Seres
-
VS 5a 1
392 Woodside Buttress
-
VS 4b * 13
393 Woodside wall
-
S 12
394 Grassy Gully
-
M 20
395 Fern Crack
-
VD * 27
396 Fat Man's Agony
-
VD 9
397 Embsay Buttress
-
HVS 9
  Unforgiven Boulder
  Snap Boulder
400 The Hunted V6  
401 The Unforgiven
-
V7  
402 Mucho Khumbu
-
V8+  
403 Deviation
-
V8+  
404 Bullwork V6 **  
405 Snapper
-
V6  
  Pine Boulder
407 Pine Arete
-
V7  
408 Gordini
-
V8+  
409 Pine Groove
-
V8 ***  
410 Senna
-
V8  
  The Moorside Boulders
412 Left Wall f2 21
413 Left Arete - Snap Boulder f2 29
414 Central Wall f2 36
415 Centre Right f2 30
416 The Right Arete f3+ 33
417 Snap
-
f5 11
  Starsky
419 Solid Arete f4 20
420 Fine Wall
-
f5+ 4
421 Bold Arete f5 5
422 Starsky Arete f7A * 7
  Low Block
424 Nose Slopers f6A 1
425 Pocket Pop f6A+ * 9
426 Pinch Pop
-
V7 1
  Dragon
428 Dragon Wall
-
f7C+  
429 Magnum
-
f7C  
430 Martin's Arete
-
f7A+ 2
431 Truffle Wall f6B  
  Pathside Boulders
433 Pathside P1
-
f3 7
434 Pathside P2
-
f3 11
435 Pathside P3
-
f4 9
436 Pathside P4
-
f4 9
437 Pathside P5
-
f4 8
438 Pathside P6
-
f3 7
439 Pathside P7
-
f4 9
440 Pathside P8
-
f3 8
441 Pathside P9
-
f4 5
442 Pathside P10
-
f3 5
443 Pathside P11
-
f4 5
444 Pathside P12
-
f3+ 5
  Approach Boulders
446 Nice Slab 1 f3 35
447 Nice Arete 1 f3 35
448 Nice Slab 2 f4 34
449 Nice Arete 2 f4 34
450 Nice Arete 3 f4 14
451 Nice Arete 4 f3 34
452 Nice Slab 3 f4 32
453 Nice Arete 5 f3 31
  PENDING with no idea of location
455 Splash Wall
-
f4+  
456 Slab and Nose Wall
-
f5+  

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