UKC

Climbs 390
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 350m a.s.l
Faces SW

Sunset soloing on the grit. Ali on Hovis (E1 5c) at Crookrise, Yorkshire. © Jamie Moss

Crag features

One of Yorkshire's premier crags. South facing, quick drying and composed of best quality grit. Fine routes and boulder problems across a wide grade range - so something for just about everyone. Recently aquired by BMC.

Approach notes

Park at Embsay Reservoir, SD 999544, then walk along the side of the reservoir to the access point onto Barden Moor. Cross the stile onto the moor and follow the path steeply uphill for a few hundred metres passing the Pathside and  Approach Boulders eventually following the wall up onto the moor. Keep on a short way a until a number of stiles (5 of them) are reached enabling the wall to be crossed to reach the rocks.  The first stile is above End Slab.

Rockfax App

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Guidebooks

Northern England

The book is a selected route and crag guide although it still manages to pack over 2350 routes between its covers, spread across 44 crags. The main focus is on routes of all grades from Moderate to E9, but the best bouldering is also described.
More info
Scoop buttress has recently had a clean and is well worth a visit.
petellis - 22/Mar/09
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Fairies Chest
2 Dave's Wall f7B+ ** 1
3 Problem 2, Hobgoblin Boulder f7A * 3
4 The Groove E4 6b ** 2
5 Pixie Tits
-
f7B+ 13
6 Pixie Tits (standing start) f6C 29
7 Gnome's Nips f6C+ 2
8 Fairy Dust f8A+  
9 Bathycolpian Dreams f8A+ **  
10 Troll's Arete f7A+ 10
11 Full of Sprites f7C *  
12 Pocket Rockets f7A * 1
  The Trig Point Boulders
  Boulder 1
15 Trig point boulder 1,problem 1
-
f7A * 1
16 The Flake SS
-
V7 1
  Boulder 2
18 The Bulge f6B+ ** 4
19 The Jam V6  
20 The Break V6  
21 Mantel f3+ 10
22 Break Traverse f6B * 1
23 Jam Tomorrow f6C * 1
24 Left Arete Sitter f5 3
25 Right Arete
-
f3+ 7
26 The Wall f3+ 5
27 The Wall (Arete) f6A+ 2
28 Slopey Breaks Right Arete f5 2
29 Slopey Breaks (Trig Point boulder 2) f5 3
30 The Slots f5+ * 1
  Boulder 3
32 The Undercut f6C 1
33 Broken Crystal f6C 2
34 The Left Side f4 4
35 Second Run f5 1
36 The Middle f6B+ 6
37 Flake Slab f6A+ 2
  Boulder 4
39 The Wall f7A * 2
40 Neat Arete. f6A+ ** 1
41 Dino Might? f6C * 1
42 Glory Wall
-
f6A 2
43 Curving Arete
-
f5 * 7
44 The Flake f3 * 8
  Evasion Buttress
46 Aversion E3 6b *  
47 Avoidance S 4a 3
48 Evasion VS 5a 1
  Green Buttress
50 Wailing Wall HVS 5a  
51 Agag E2 5c 1
52 Agag Arete E1 5b  
53 Greenland P E3 6b  
54 Green Fingers E2 5c  
55 Green Velvet E2 5c *  
  Scoop Buttress
57 Karjala
-
f7A 67
58 Karjala Right f6B 2
59 The Scoop HS 4b 17
60 Mindless HVS 5a * 1
61 Mindbender E1 5b * 5
62 Scoop Wall
-
MVS 4a 11
  SADCOCS Boulder
64 The Left -Hand Rib f5+ 9
65 Hanging Flake f6B+ 6
66 Sadcocs Wall
-
f6C 42
67 Right Hand End f5+ * 23
68 Traverse Big Break On Sadcocks Wall f5+ 65
69 Sadcocs Low Traverse f6C 4
70 Morokolli V7  
71 They Call Me Mr Tibbs
-
V6 1
72 The Defiant One
-
V8+  
  Slingsby's Pinnacle
74 Streaklet E3 6b 3
75 Rushlight S 4a 148
76 Rushlight (variant) MVS 4b 19
77 Crease VS 5a ** 153
78 Crease Direct - Route f6A+ ** 164
79 Crease Arete E2 6a 7
80 Crease Direct Start - Boulder Problem f6A 107
81 Crease Direct Slab f6B * 7
82 The Fly f7B+ ** 20
83 Fly ArĂȘte f7A ** 2
84 Chimney Buttress HS 4b * 51
85 Premium White
-
E1 5b * 3
86 Fear No Evil
-
E2 5c * 1
87 Slingsby's Chimney HVD 4a ** 94
88 Massive Attack E5 6b * 6
89 Small Brown E4 6b *** 29
90 Small Brown Direct E4 6a *** 2
91 Mighty White E4 6b ** 12
92 Wholemeal
-
E3 6a * 14
93 Hovis E1 5c ** 171
94 Hovis Direct f6B * 66
95 Hovis Super Direct f6C ** 47
96 Flake Wall HS 4b * 178
97 Flake Wall Direct Start
-
VS 4c 5
98 Mothers Milk
-
VS 9
99 Spellbinder HVS 5a * 105
100 Flake
-
S 108
101 Moonshadow
-
HVS 5b * 8
102 Slingsby's Girdle
-
HVS 5a ** 2
  Left Hand Edge Boulders
104 Ron's Crack 2 E3 6b * 53
105 Barry King Size f7A 145
106 Barry King Size SD f7A+ 47
107 Gibber Ramp f5+ 21
  Footprint Boulder
109 Footprint Arete Lefthand HVS 5a 8
110 Footprint Arete Righthand MVS 4b 13
111 Footprint Slab MVS 4b 8
  Matterhorn Boulder
113 Layback Crack VS 4c 1
  Happy Landings Boulder
115 Happy Landings f6B+ 10
116 The Flake f6B+ 9
117 Scoop f6C+ 10
118 The Rib f6B 7
119 Gritty Pockets f5+ 9
120 Uphill Struggle f7A * 5
121 The Arete f6A+  
  Ruffian Boulder
123 Crucifix f7A 10
124 Sole Fusion
-
f8A 6
125 The Ruffian
-
VS 4c 29
126 The Urchin
-
VS 4c 17
  Gentian Boulder
128 Jason's Roof
-
f7C+ *** 16
129 Sideliner
-
f8A 6
130 Gentian
-
S 9
131 Sunshine Slab Lefthand VS 4c 9
132 Thin Air HVS 5a * 15
133 Sunshine Slab Righthand MVS 4a 15
  Heather Wall
135 Left Hand Route
-
VS 15
136 Central Route MVS 4b 5
137 Right-Hand Route VS 4c 6
  Farewell slab
139 Stepping Out VD 2
140 Born Again D 3
141 High Step Climb D 5
142 Quashqui
-
HVS 5b * 1
143 Walkover E3 6a ** 15
144 A Lifetime's Dream E4 6b * 4
145 Walker's Farewell HVS 5b ** 102
146 Pen Sketches
-
E2 6a 4
Climb name Grade
147 Wonderloaf E2 5b * 13
148 Ice Fall
-
E2 5b * 2
149 Winter Traverse E1 5a * 5
150 Long Day
-
HVS 5a * 8
151 Leaf Crack and Slab
-
VS 4c * 19
152 Straight Crack HS 4a 10
  Slip 'n' Slide
154 Knuckle Crack
-
VS 4c * 26
155 Knuckleduster VS 4c 18
156 Green Crack
-
VS 4b 22
157 Duck 'n' Dive E5 6b * 2
158 Slip 'n' Slide E6 6a *** 29
159 Sit and slide f7B *  
160 Detachment Theory E8 6b/c *** 2
161 Sunstroke Direct HVS 5b * 6
162 Sunstroke
-
HVS 5a * 14
163 Crooked chimney
-
VD 16
164 Bull's Horns
-
VS 4c * 21
165 Bull's Eye
-
VS 4c * 4
166 Narrow Crack
-
MS 11
  Shelf Buttress
168 Chockstone Chimney VD 82
169 Buster Direct HVS 5b * 42
170 Buster S 4a ** 230
171 Open Chimney VD * 101
172 The Forager VS 4c * 87
173 The Shelf E2 5b *** 175
174 Elm Tree Wall
-
E3 6a * 9
175 Long Climb HS 4b *** 474
176 Lyndhurst E1 5b ** 50
177 Cat's Whiskers VS 4c * 176
  Central Slab
179 The Jolly Pleasant Scramble
-
M 53
180 Weirdo
-
f6A+  
181 Arsenic Slab S 4a ** 462
182 Arsenic Slab Direct f6A * 16
183 Old Lace HVS 5a ** 257
184 Old Lace Direct Start
-
HVS 5c 33
185 Old Lace Direct
-
f4+ 4
186 Arsenic Traverse
-
f6C+  
187 Winter Rain E2 5c 69
188 Diagonal Crack VD ** 615
189 Central Slab Right Hand (YGB prob 3) f3 3
190 East of The River VS 5a 112
191 Octopus S 4a * 407
192 Octopus Direct VS 4c * 274
193 Octopuses Right Hand VS 4b 27
194 Leaning Tower Arete
-
f6C+ 3
195 Razor f7C *** 17
196 Perplexity
-
HVS 6a 3
197 Induction
-
D 33
198 Grovelhog
-
VD 19
199 Face, Arete and Wall Climb VD * 130
200 Gallowgate
-
f7B 2
201 War Cry
-
f7B+ 1
202 Running Battle
-
f7B 1
203 Indirect Little Crack
-
f6B+ 8
204 Crack Climb
-
VD 13
205 Easter Crack VD 17
206 Crookrise Crack
-
S 4a * 36
207 Trunk
-
f6A 3
208 Problem Buttress HS 4a 24
209 Marginal
-
f6A+ 3
210 Autumn
-
f6B 2
211 Hard Candy
-
f6C  
212 Pinch and Push
-
f6A  
  Craven Buttress
214 Smooth Arete
-
f6C 6
215 Craven Mantel
-
f5 14
216 Craven Slab
-
f5+ 8
217 Craven Right f5+ 3
218 Moulson's Climb S 4a 36
219 A Reach too Far E3 6a  
220 Longlurch E2 5c * 10
221 Long Lurch Variation SDS f7B+ 1
222 Griffith's Chimney HS 4b ** 45
223 Chimney Variation
-
VS 5a 9
224 Walker's Wall HVS 5a * 151
225 Walker's Wall (direct start) f5+ * 8
226 Walker's Wall Chimney Variant HVS 5a * 37
227 Craven Crack VS 4c * 242
228 Jug Wall
-
HS 4b 12
229 Frost Animals
-
HVS 5b 15
230 Frost Animals
-
f5+ 3
231 West Wall Climb HS 4b * 173
232 Malcolm's Route
-
VS 4c * 19
233 Sole Direct
-
E3 6c 2
234 Sole Direct
-
f7A  
235 The Sole HVS 5b *** 316
236 The Sole Start
-
f5+ 5
237 Family Matters HVS 5b ** 46
238 Mother's Little Helper E2 5c * 23
239 Sole of Discretion
-
f7B+  
240 Old Sole Traverse
-
f6C 2
241 Slab and Nose S 4b * 111
242 Slab and Nose Variations HVS 5a * 54
243 Slab and Nose Arete
-
f5 4
244 Craven Traverse
-
f6A+ 15
245 Full Craven Traverse
-
f6B+ 9
246 Throttle Stop
-
f7B+  
247 Gritstone Gecko
-
f6C+ 1
  Chockstone Crack
249 Kendo Nagasaki
-
f7B+  
250 Bilberry Crack
-
VS 4c * 82
251 Bilberry Eliminate
-
f6B+  
252 Chockstone Crack
-
D * 154
253 Friction Slab
-
MVS 4b 8
254 Hidden Wall
-
VS 4c 4
255 Bilberry Wall
-
VS 5a 7
256 Diet Pepsi f6B 92
257 Pepsi Max
-
f7A+ 4
258 Gently Does It
-
f6A 2
259 Ryan's Folly
-
D 33
  Ledge Buttress
261 Traverse and Crack VD * 155
262 Basic Training
-
S 24
263 Tiger Rag HS 4c * 121
264 Side Salad
-
VS 5a 1
265 Leaning Wall
-
VS 5a 6
266 Ledge Buttress VS 4c 12
267 Twin Cracks
-
VS 4c * 28
  End Slab
269 Dewhurst Mill
-
VS 4c * 11
270 Overhead Projection VS 4c 2
271 Safe From Harm
-
f7A+  
272 The Help f6B+ 4
273 Twilight
-
f6A  
274 Twilight Zone
-
f7A+  
275 Superlight
-
f7B+  
276 Anonymous Slab S 4a 1
277 Dirty Tackle
-
S 16
278 Trivial Pursuit
-
VD 29
279 Climb In Silence E2 6a ** 1
280 Route 3 S 4a * 124
281 Peep Show
-
f5  
282 Ultra
-
f6B+ 1
283 Right Return f7A+ 2
284 Route 4 HVS 5c * 78
285 Cold Call
-
f7B+ 1
286 Route 2.5 HVS 5a * 152
287 Route 2 VS 5a ** 545
288 Route 1 VD 251
289 Edge VS 5a * 428
290 A vicious Slice of Mango VS 4c 3
291 A Malicious Cut of Grapefruit HVS 5a 2
292 Facade S 4c 4
Climb name Grade
293 Cave Crack
-
VD 70
294 Midget Morsel
-
MS 31
295 Shelter Stone
-
HS 4b 28
  Kumbu Region
297 Fitou
-
E3 6b 2
298 Pitou
-
E4 6b  
299 Impossible Wall
-
f4 4
  Trojan Roof
301 Left Arete Rising f3 1
302 Siege Wall f4 1
303 War Horse f6A 1
304 Trojan Roof
-
f8A  
  Big Nose
306 Big Nose P1 f4 2
307 Big Nose P2 f5 4
308 Big Nose P3 f3 5
309 Big Nose P4 f5 2
310 Big Nose P5 f4 4
311 Big Nose P6 f3 5
  The Everest Boulder
313 High Plains Drifter
-
f7A 2
314 Ron's Crack I f6C 16
315 Palm Gem
-
f6C+ 14
316 Sultan of Bling
-
f6B+ 1
317 Grooved Arete (AKA Left Arete)
-
f6A 4
318 Left Edge f6A 2
319 Undercut f6B **  
320 Right Centre f6C 2
321 Right Arete f4+ 7
322 Fly By Wire
-
f7B+  
323 Renegade Piper
-
f7B+  
324 Rampant Bilberry f6C+ 1
  Khumbu Cont.
326 Grotty Slab Sitter f5 1
327 Easy Groove f3 1
328 Nice Slabby Arete Sitter f6A 1
329 Easy Scoop Sitter f5 1
330 Jug Handles f4+ 1
  Pitter Pat
332 The Rose Bowl f5 7
333 Bowl Arete f4 10
334 Pitter Patter f3 10
335 Pitter Patter P2 f5 5
336 Pitter Patter P3 f4 6
337 Twisted f7A+ 1
338 Moon Landing f5 * 4
  Buckley Boulder
340 Lilac Wine
-
V8+  
341 Last Goodbye
-
V9  
342 Mono Pin
-
V7  
343 Sugar Spun
-
V7  
  Sugar Spun
345 Sugar Sugar
-
f3 3
346 Sugar Groove
-
f5 3
  Meat Cleaver
348 Meat Cleaver
-
V7  
349 Dream Weaver
-
V6  
  Cracked Slab
351 Cracked Slab
-
f5+ 1
352 Runnel
-
f4 1
353 Jugs
-
f5 1
354 Soft Option
-
f6B  
  Pine Boulder
356 Steady Arete
-
f4 1
357 Carlsson Arete
-
V7  
358 Pine Arete
-
f6C+  
359 Gordini
-
f7B+  
360 Pine Groove
-
f6B+  
361 Senna
-
f6C  
362 Wharfe Traverse
-
f6C+  
  Woodside Buttress
364 Wallflower
-
VS 4b  
365 Seres
-
VS 5a 1
366 Woodside Buttress
-
VS 4b * 13
367 Woodside wall
-
S 12
368 Grassy Gully
-
M 20
369 Fern Crack
-
VD * 27
370 Fat Man's Agony
-
VD 9
371 Embsay Buttress
-
HVS 9
  Unforgiven Boulder
  Snap Boulder
374 The Hunted V6  
375 The Unforgiven
-
V7  
376 Mucho Khumbu
-
V8+  
377 Deviation
-
V8+  
378 Bullwork V6 **  
379 Snapper
-
V6  
  Pine Boulder
381 Pine Arete
-
V7  
382 Gordini
-
V8+  
383 Pine Groove
-
V8 ***  
384 Senna
-
V8  
  The Moorside Boulders
386 Left Wall f2 21
387 Left Arete - Snap Boulder f2 29
388 Central Wall f2 36
389 Centre Right f2 30
390 The Right Arete f3+ 33
391 Snap
-
f5 11
  Starsky
393 Solid Arete f4 20
394 Fine Wall
-
f5+ 3
395 Bold Arete f5 5
396 Starsky Arete
-
f7A+ 5
  Low Block
398 Pocket Pop f6B * 7
399 Pinch Pop
-
V7 1
  Dragon
401 Dragon Wall
-
f7C+  
402 Magnum
-
f7C  
403 Martin's Arete
-
f7A+ 2
404 Truffle Wall f6B  
  Pathside Boulders
406 Pathside P1
-
f3 7
407 Pathside P2
-
f3 11
408 Pathside P3
-
f4 9
409 Pathside P4
-
f4 9
410 Pathside P5
-
f4 8
411 Pathside P6
-
f3 7
412 Pathside P7
-
f4 9
413 Pathside P8
-
f3 8
414 Pathside P9
-
f4 5
415 Pathside P10
-
f3 5
416 Pathside P11
-
f4 5
417 Pathside P12
-
f3+ 5
  Approach Boulders
419 Nice Slab 1 f3 35
420 Nice Arete 1 f3 35
421 Nice Slab 2 f4 34
422 Nice Arete 2 f4 34
423 Nice Arete 3 f4 14
424 Nice Arete 4 f3 34
425 Nice Slab 3 f4 32
426 Nice Arete 5 f3 31
  PENDING with no idea of location
428 Trench Foot
-
f6C+ 5
429 Control f6B 2
430 Stone Road f6A 13
431 Softly Spoken f4+ 7
432 Little Easy f3 9
433 Short Lived f3 5
434 Master Blaster
-
f7C  
435 Finger Blaster
-
f6C  
436 Splash Wall
-
f4+  
437 Slab and Nose Wall
-
f5+  
438 Footloose
-
f5+ 1

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