Climbs 424
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 350m a.s.l
Faces SW

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Sunset soloing on the grit. Ali on Hovis (E1 5c) at Crookrise, Yorkshire. © Jamie Moss

Crag features

One of Yorkshire's premier crags. South facing, quick drying and composed of best quality grit. Fine routes and boulder problems across a wide grade range - so something for just about everyone. Recently aquired by BMC.

Approach notes

Park at Embsay Reservoir, SD 999544, then walk along the side of the reservoir to the access point onto Barden Moor. Cross the stile onto the moor and follow the path steeply uphill for a few hundred metres passing the Pathside and  Approach Boulders eventually following the wall up onto the moor. Keep on a short way a until a number of stiles (5 of them) are reached enabling the wall to be crossed to reach the rocks.  The first stile is above End Slab.

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Guidebooks

Northern England

The book is a selected route and crag guide although it still manages to pack over 2350 routes between its covers, spread across 44 crags. The main focus is on routes of all grades from Moderate to E9, but the best bouldering is also described.
More info
Scoop buttress has recently had a clean and is well worth a visit.
petellis - 22/Mar/09
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Fairies Chest
2 Dave's Wall f7B+ ** 1
3 Full of Sprites f7C *  
4 Problem 2, Hobgoblin Boulder f7A * 3
5 Pocket Rockets f7A * 2
6 The Groove E4 6b ** 2
7 Troll's Arete f7A+ 10
8 Fairy Dust f8A+  
9 Bathycolpian Dreams f8A+ **  
10 Pixie Tits
-
f7B+ 14
11 Pixie Tits (standing start) f6C 33
12 Gnome's Nips f6C+ 2
13 The Erlking f5+  
14 The Green Goblin f5 *  
15 Goblin Edge f6A *  
16 The Gnome f6A+ *  
17 The Changeling f6B **  
18 The Elf f6A *  
19 Goblin's Fireplace f4+  
20 Misty Mountain Hop f6B  
21 Troll Roof f6A+  
22 Fairy Hole f5+ *  
23 Slippery Jack f7A  
24 Magic Mushroom f6A **  
25 The Imp f6B *  
  The Trig Point Boulders
  Boulder 1
28 Trig point boulder 1,problem 1
-
f7A * 1
29 The Flake SS
-
V7 1
  Boulder 2
31 The Bulge f6B+ ** 5
32 The Jam V6  
33 The Break V6  
34 Mantel f5+ 13
35 Break Traverse f6B * 1
36 Jam Tomorrow f6C * 1
37 Left Arete Sitter f5 3
38 Right Arete
-
f3+ 9
39 The Wall f3+ 5
40 The Wall (Arete) f6A+ 2
41 Slopey Breaks Right Arete f5 4
42 Slopey Breaks (Trig Point boulder 2) f5 3
43 The Slots f5+ * 1
  Boulder 3
45 The Undercut f6C 1
46 Broken Crystal f6C 3
47 Broken crystal SS f7A 1
48 The Left Side f4 6
49 Second Run f5 1
50 The Middle f6B+ 6
51 Flake Slab f6A+ 3
  Boulder 4
53 The Wall f7A * 2
54 Neat Arete. f6A+ ** 2
55 Dino Might? f6C * 1
56 Glory Wall
-
f6A 3
57 Curving Arete
-
f5 * 8
58 The Flake f3 * 9
  Evasion Buttress
60 Aversion E3 6b *  
61 Avoidance S 4a 3
62 Evasion VS 5a 1
  Green Buttress
64 Wailing Wall HVS 5a  
65 Agag E2 5c 1
66 Agag Arete E1 5b  
67 Greenland P E3 6b  
68 Green Fingers E2 5c  
69 Green Velvet E2 5c *  
  Scoop Buttress
71 Karjala
-
f7A 78
72 Karjala Right f6B 2
73 The Scoop HS 4b 18
74 Mindless HVS 5a * 1
75 Mindbender E1 5b * 7
76 Scoop Wall
-
MVS 4a 11
  SADCOCS Boulder
78 The Left -Hand Rib f5+ 12
79 Hanging Flake f6B+ 7
80 Sadcocs Wall
-
f6C 49
81 Middleish f4+ 2
82 Right Hand End f5+ * 25
83 Traverse Big Break On Sadcocks Wall f5+ 66
84 Sadcocs Low Traverse f6C 6
85 Morokolli V7  
86 They Call Me Mr Tibbs
-
V6 1
87 The Defiant One
-
V8+  
  Slingsby's Pinnacle
89 Streaklet E3 6b 6
90 Rushlight S 4a 165
91 Rushlight (variant) MVS 4b 21
92 Crease VS 5a ** 161
93 Crease Direct f6A+ ** 184
94 Crease Arete E2 6a 12
95 Crease Direct Start - Boulder Problem f6A 115
96 Crease Direct Slab f6B * 10
97 The Fly f7B+ ** 25
98 Fly Arête f7A ** 2
99 Chimney Buttress HS 4b * 55
100 Premium White
-
E1 5b * 3
101 Fear No Evil
-
E2 5c * 1
102 Slingsby's Chimney HVD 4a ** 96
103 Massive Attack E5 6b * 8
104 Small Brown E4 6b *** 33
105 Small Brown Direct E4 6a *** 4
106 Mighty White E4 6b ** 13
107 Wholemeal
-
E3 6a * 19
108 Hovis E1 5c ** 191
109 Hovis Direct f6B * 70
110 Hovis Super Direct f6C ** 51
111 Flake Wall HS 4b * 197
112 Flake Wall Direct Start
-
VS 4c 7
113 Mothers Milk
-
VS 11
114 Spellbinder HVS 5a * 111
115 Flake
-
S 118
116 Moonshadow
-
HVS 5b * 9
117 Slingsby's Girdle
-
HVS 5a ** 2
118 Breaking Out *
-
E2 5c 1
  Left Hand Edge Boulders
120 Ron's Crack 2 E3 6b * 66
121 Barry King Size f7A 175
122 Barry King Size SD f7A+ 57
123 Gibber Ramp f5+ 29
124 Toke f5+ * 1
  Sidetracked Boulder
126 Sidetracked f7A+ ** 3
127 Shallow f6C 1
  Cave Boulder
129 Cave Int’ut Slab f7B *  
  Footprint Boulder
131 Footprint Arete Lefthand HVS 5a 8
132 Footprint Arete Righthand MVS 4b 14
133 Footprint Slab MVS 4b 8
  Matterhorn Boulder
135 Layback Crack VS 4c 1
  Happy Landings Boulder
137 Happy Landings f6B+ 11
138 The Flake f6B+ 9
139 Scoop f6C+ 10
140 The Rib f6B 7
141 Gritty Pockets f5+ 9
142 Uphill Struggle f7A * 6
143 The Arete f6A+  
  Ruffian Boulder
145 Crucifix f7A 12
146 Sole Fusion
-
f8A 6
147 The Ruffian
-
VS 4c 31
148 The Urchin
-
VS 4c 17
149 Fagin
-
V7 1
150 The Ruffian Traverse
-
V7  
  Gentian Boulder
152 Jason's Roof f8A *** 25
153 Sideliner f8A ** 8
154 Gentian
-
S 9
155 Sunshine Slab Lefthand VS 4c 9
156 Thin Air HVS 5a * 17
157 Sunshine Slab Righthand MVS 4a 17
158 Jason's Roof Dan's Extension
-
V12  
  Sunrise Boulder
160 Tow the Line f3+ * 1
Climb name Grade
161 Attachment Theory f6C+ ** 2
162 Mercury Rising f6C+ ** 2
163 Sunrise Slab f4+ * 2
164 Captain Crook f3+ * 1
  Heather Wall
166 Left Hand Route
-
VS 15
167 Central Route MVS 4b 8
168 Right-Hand Route VS 4c 8
  Farewell slab
170 Stepping Out VD 3
171 Born Again D 4
172 High Step Climb D 7
173 Quashqui
-
HVS 5b * 1
174 Walkover E3 6a ** 15
175 A Lifetime's Dream E4 6b * 4
176 Walker's Farewell HVS 5b ** 104
177 Pen Sketches
-
E2 6a 4
178 Wonderloaf E2 5b * 13
179 Ice Fall
-
E2 5b * 2
180 Winter Traverse E1 5a * 5
181 Long Day
-
HVS 5a * 10
182 Leaf Crack and Slab
-
VS 4c * 21
183 Straight Crack HS 4a 10
  Slip 'n' Slide
185 Knuckle Crack
-
VS 4c * 26
186 Knuckleduster VS 4c 18
187 Green Crack
-
VS 4b 22
188 Duck 'n' Dive E5 6b * 4
189 Slip 'n' Slide E6 6a *** 39
190 Sit and slide f7B *  
191 Detachment Theory E8 6b/c *** 3
192 Sunstroke Direct HVS 5b * 6
193 Sunstroke
-
HVS 5a * 14
194 Crooked chimney
-
VD 16
195 Bull's Horns
-
VS 4c * 24
196 Bull's Eye
-
VS 4c * 4
197 Narrow Crack
-
MS 11
  Shelf Buttress
199 Chockstone Chimney VD 88
200 Buster Direct HVS 5b * 44
201 Buster S 4a ** 253
202 Open Chimney VD * 108
203 The Forager VS 4c * 91
204 The Shelf E2 5b *** 185
205 Elm Tree Wall
-
E3 6a * 10
206 Long Climb HS 4b *** 504
207 Lyndhurst E1 5b ** 54
208 Cat's Whiskers VS 4c * 189
  Central Slab
210 The Jolly Pleasant Scramble
-
M 60
211 Weirdo
-
f6A+  
212 Arsenic Slab S 4a ** 497
213 Arsenic Slab Direct f6A * 17
214 Old Lace HVS 5a ** 274
215 Old Lace Direct Start
-
HVS 5c 37
216 Old Lace Direct
-
f4+ 4
217 Arsenic Traverse
-
f6C+  
218 Winter Rain E2 5c 74
219 Diagonal Crack VD ** 665
220 Central Slab Right Hand (YGB prob 3) f3 4
221 East of The River VS 5a 119
222 Octopus S 4a * 428
223 Octopus Direct VS 4c * 297
224 Octopuses Right Hand VS 4b 29
225 Leaning Tower Arete
-
f6C+ 3
226 Razor f7C *** 18
227 Perplexity
-
HVS 6a 3
228 Induction
-
D 33
229 Grovelhog
-
VD 20
230 Face, Arete and Wall Climb VD * 136
231 Gallowgate
-
f7B 2
232 War Cry
-
f7B+ 1
233 Running Battle
-
f7B 2
234 Indirect Little Crack
-
f6B+ 9
235 Crack Climb
-
VD 14
236 Easter Crack VD 18
237 Crookrise Crack
-
S 4a * 37
238 Trunk
-
f6A 3
239 Problem Buttress HS 4a 27
240 Marginal
-
f6A+ 3
241 Autumn
-
f6B 2
242 Hard Candy
-
f6C  
243 Pinch and Push
-
f6A  
244 Grovelhog Traverse * HD 1
  Craven Buttress
246 Smooth Arete
-
f6C 6
247 Craven Mantel
-
f5 15
248 Craven Slab
-
f5+ 10
249 Craven Right f5+ 3
250 Moulson's Climb S 4a 40
251 A Reach too Far E3 6a  
252 Longlurch E2 5c * 11
253 Long Lurch Variation SDS f7B+ 1
254 Griffith's Chimney HS 4b ** 50
255 Chimney Variation
-
VS 5a 9
256 Walker's Wall HVS 5a * 155
257 Walker's Wall (direct start) f5+ * 9
258 Walker's Wall Chimney Variant HVS 5a * 37
259 Craven Crack VS 4c * 252
260 Jug Wall
-
HS 4b 12
261 Frost Animals
-
HVS 5b 15
262 Frost Animals
-
f5+ 3
263 West Wall Climb HS 4b * 180
264 Malcolm's Route
-
VS 4c * 20
265 Sole Direct
-
E3 6c 2
266 Sole Direct
-
f7A  
267 The Sole HVS 5b *** 338
268 The Sole Start
-
f5+ 9
269 Family Matters HVS 5b ** 51
270 Mother's Little Helper E2 5c * 28
271 Sole of Discretion
-
f7B+  
272 Old Sole Traverse
-
f6C 2
273 Slab and Nose S 4b * 122
274 Slab and Nose Variations HVS 5a * 58
275 Slab and Nose Arete
-
f5 7
276 Craven Traverse
-
f6A+ 21
277 Full Craven Traverse
-
f6B+ 9
278 Throttle Stop
-
f7B+  
279 Gritstone Gecko
-
f6C+ 1
  Chockstone Crack
281 Kendo Nagasaki
-
f7B+  
282 Bilberry Crack
-
VS 4c * 91
283 Bilberry Eliminate
-
f6B+  
284 Chockstone Crack
-
D * 164
285 Friction Slab
-
MVS 4b 9
286 Hidden Wall
-
VS 4c 4
287 Bilberry Wall
-
VS 5a 8
288 Diet Pepsi f6B 104
289 Pepsi Max
-
f7A+ 5
290 Gently Does It
-
f6A 2
291 Ryan's Folly
-
D 33
292 Diet Pepsi Sit Start * f6B+ 2
  Ledge Buttress
294 Traverse and Crack VD * 171
295 Basic Training
-
S 24
296 Tiger Rag HS 4c * 127
297 Side Salad
-
VS 5a 2
298 Leaning Wall
-
VS 5a 6
299 Ledge Buttress VS 4c 12
300 Twin Cracks
-
VS 4c * 29
  End Slab
302 Dewhurst Mill
-
VS 4c * 11
303 Overhead Projection VS 4c 2
304 Safe From Harm
-
f7A+  
305 Twilight
-
f6A  
306 Twilight Zone
-
f7A+  
307 Superlight
-
f7B+  
308 Anonymous Slab S 4a 1
309 Dirty Tackle
-
S 18
310 Trivial Pursuit
-
VD 29
311 Climb In Silence E2 6a ** 1
312 Route 3 S 4a * 137
313 Peep Show
-
f5 1
314 Ultra
-
f6B+ 3
315 Right Return f7A+ 2
316 Control f6B 3
317 Route 4 HVS 5c * 82
318 Cold Call f7B+ 1
319 Stone Road f6A 19
320 Route 2.5 HVS 5a * 158
Climb name Grade
321 The Help f6B+ 6
322 Route 2 VS 5a ** 573
323 Route 1 VD 257
324 Softly Spoken f4+ 8
325 Little Easy f3 10
326 Edge VS 5a * 449
327 Short Lived f3 5
328 End Slab Traverse f6B  
329 Master Blaster f7C  
330 Finger Blaster f6C  
331 A vicious Slice of Mango VS 4c 3
332 A Malicious Cut of Grapefruit HVS 5a 2
333 Facade S 4c 5
  Cave Crack
335 Cave Crack
-
VD 74
336 Midget Morsel
-
MS 32
337 Shelter Stone
-
HS 4b 30
  Kumbu Region
  Trench Foot Wall
340 Trench Foot f6C+ 5
  Pitou Wall
342 Fitou
-
E3 6b 2
343 Pitou
-
E4 6b  
344 Impossible Wall
-
f4 4
  Trading Places Boulder
346 A Corner of the World f6A * 1
347 Trading Places f6A+ * 1
  Trojan Roof
349 Left Arete Rising f3 1
350 Siege Wall f4 1
351 War Horse f6A 1
352 Trojan Roof
-
f8A  
  Big Nose
354 Big Nose P1 f4 2
355 Big Nose P2 f5 4
356 Big Nose P3 f3 5
357 Big Nose P4 f5 2
358 Big Nose P5 f4 4
359 Big Nose P6 f3 5
  The Everest Boulder
361 High Plains Drifter
-
f7A 2
362 Ron's Crack I f6C 17
363 Palm Gem
-
f6C+ 17
364 Sultan of Bling
-
f6B+ 1
365 Grooved Arete (AKA Left Arete)
-
f6A 5
366 Left Edge f6A 2
367 Undercut f6B ** 1
368 Right Centre f6C 3
369 Right Arete f4+ 8
370 Fly By Wire
-
f7B+  
371 Renegade Piper
-
f7B+  
372 Rampant Bilberry f6C+ 1
373 Ron Crack 1 SS *
-
V6  
  Khumbu Cont.
375 Grotty Slab Sitter f5 1
376 Easy Groove f3 1
377 Nice Slabby Arete Sitter f6A 1
378 Easy Scoop Sitter f5 1
379 Jug Handles f4+ 1
  Pitter Pat
381 The Rose Bowl f5 7
382 Bowl Arete f4 11
383 Pitter Patter f3 11
384 Pitter Patter P2 f5 5
385 Pitter Patter P3 f4 6
386 Twisted f7A+ 2
387 Moon Landing f5 * 4
  Buckley Boulder
389 Lilac Wine
-
V8+ 1
390 Last Goodbye
-
V9  
391 Mono Pin
-
V7 1
392 Sugar Spun
-
V7 1
  Sugar Spun
394 Sugar Sugar
-
f3 3
395 Sugar Groove
-
f5 3
  Meat Cleaver
397 Meat Cleaver
-
V7  
398 Dream Weaver
-
V6 2
  Cracked Slab
400 Cracked Slab
-
f5+ 1
401 Runnel
-
f4 1
402 Jugs
-
f5 1
403 Soft Option
-
f6B  
  Pine Boulder
405 Steady Arete
-
f4 1
406 Carlsson Arete
-
V7  
407 Pine Arete
-
f6C+  
408 Gordini
-
f7B+  
409 Pine Groove
-
f6B+  
410 Senna
-
f6C  
411 Wharfe Traverse
-
f6C+  
  Woodside Buttress
413 Wallflower
-
VS 4b  
414 Seres
-
VS 5a 1
415 Woodside Buttress
-
VS 4b * 14
416 Woodside wall
-
S 12
417 Grassy Gully
-
M 20
418 Fern Crack
-
VD * 27
419 Fat Man's Agony
-
VD 9
420 Embsay Buttress
-
HVS 9
  Unforgiven Boulder
  Snap Boulder
423 The Hunted V6  
424 The Unforgiven
-
V7  
425 Mucho Khumbu
-
V8+  
426 Deviation
-
V8+  
427 Bullwork V6 **  
428 Snapper
-
V6  
  Pine Boulder
430 Pine Arete
-
V7  
431 Gordini
-
V8+  
432 Pine Groove
-
V8 ***  
433 Senna
-
V8  
  The Moorside Boulders
435 Left Wall f2 22
436 Left Arete - Snap Boulder f2 30
437 Central Wall f2 37
438 Centre Right f2 31
439 The Right Arete f3+ 34
440 Snap
-
f5 11
  Starsky
442 Solid Arete f4 22
443 Fine Wall
-
f5+ 4
444 Bold Arete f5 5
445 Starsky Arete f7A * 8
  Low Block
447 Nose Slopers f6A 1
448 Pocket Pop f6A+ * 9
449 Pinch Pop
-
V7 1
  Dragon
451 Dragon Wall
-
f7C+  
452 Magnum
-
f7C  
453 Martin's Arete
-
f7A+ 4
454 Truffle Wall f6B 1
  Pathside Boulders
456 Pathside P1
-
f3 8
457 Pathside P2
-
f3 12
458 Pathside P3
-
f4 10
459 Pathside P4
-
f4 10
460 Pathside P5
-
f4 9
461 Pathside P6
-
f3 8
462 Pathside P7
-
f4 10
463 Pathside P8
-
f3 10
464 Pathside P9
-
f4 6
465 Pathside P10
-
f3 6
466 Pathside P11
-
f4 6
467 Pathside P12
-
f3+ 6
  Approach Boulders
469 Nice Slab 1 f3 38
470 Nice Arete 1 f3 36
471 Nice Slab 2 f4 36
472 Nice Arete 2 f4 35
473 Nice Arete 3 f4 15
474 Nice Arete 4 f3 35
475 Nice Slab 3 f4 33
476 Nice Arete 5 f3 32
  PENDING with no idea of location
478 Splash Wall
-
f4+  
479 Slab and Nose Wall
-
f5+  
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderators Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteers GPN and Paul Clarke