Climbs 350
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 350m a.s.l
Faces SW

Sunset soloing on the grit. Ali on Hovis (E1 5c) at Crookrise, Yorkshire. © Jamie Moss

Crag features

One of Yorkshire's premier crags. South facing, quick drying and composed of best quality grit. Fine routes and boulder problems across a wide grade range - so something for just about everyone. Recently aquired by BMC.

Approach notes

Park at Embsay Reservoir, SD 999544, then walk along the side of the reservoir to the access point onto Barden Moor. Cross the stile onto the moor and follow the path steeply uphill for a few hundred metres passing the Pathside and  Approach Boulders eventually following the wall up onto the moor. Keep on a short way a until a number of stiles (5 of them) are reached enabling the wall to be crossed to reach the rocks.  The first stile is above End Slab.

Access Advice

Note of caution - the obvious large belay boulder at the top of Arsenic Slabs is loose.

Guidebooks

Northern England

The book is a selected route and crag guide although it still manages to pack over 2350 routes between its covers, spread across 44 crags. The main focus is on routes of all grades from Moderate to E9, but the best bouldering is also described.
More info
Scoop buttress has recently had a clean and is well worth a visit.
petellis - 22/Mar/09
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Fairies Chest 
2Pixie Tits
-
f7B+ 6
3Pixie Tits (standing start)f6C 24
4Gnome's Nipsf6C+ 2
5Troll's Aretef7A+ 7
6Problem 2, Hobgoblin Boulderf7A *3
 The Trig Point Boulders 
 Boulder 1 
9Trig point boulder 1,problem 1
-
f7A *1
 Boulder 2 
11The Bulgef6B+ **4
12Mantelf3+ 7
13Break Traversef6B *1
14Jam Tomorrowf6C *1
15Left Arete Sitterf5 2
16Right Arete
-
f3+ 7
17The Wallf3+ 5
18The Wall (Arete)f6A+ 2
19Slopey Breaks Right Aretef5 2
20Slopey Breaks (Trig Point boulder 2)f5 3
21The Slotsf5+ *1
 Boulder 3 
23The Undercutf6C 1
24Broken Crystalf6C 2
25The Left Sidef4 2
26Second Runf5 1
27The Middlef6B+ 2
28Flake Slabf6A+ 2
 Boulder 4 
30The Wallf7A *1
31Neat Arete.f6A+ **1
32Dino Might?f6C *1
33Glory Wall
-
f6A 2
34Curving Arete
-
f5 *6
35The Flakef3 *7
 Evasion Buttress 
37AvoidanceS 4a 3
38EvasionVS 5a 1
 Green Buttress 
40AgagE2 5c 1
 Scoop Buttress 
42Karjala
-
f7A 46
43Karjala Rightf6B 2
44The ScoopHS 4b 15
45MindlessHVS 5a *1
46MindbenderE1 5b *5
47Scoop Wall
-
MVS 4a 10
 SADCOCS Boulder 
49The Left -Hand Ribf5+ 3
50Hanging Flakef6B+ 2
51Sadcocs Wall
-
f6C 24
52Right Hand Endf5+ *19
53Traverse Big Break On Sadcocks Wallf5+ 49
54Sadcocs Low Traversef6C 2
 Slingsby's Pinnacle 
56StreakletE3 6b 3
57RushlightS 4a 135
58Rushlight (variant)MVS 4b 18
59CreaseVS 5a **135
60Crease Direct - Routef6A+ **142
61Crease AreteE2 6a 7
62Crease Direct Start - Boulder Problemf6A 88
63Crease Direct Slabf6B *5
64The Flyf7B+ **13
65Fly ArĂȘtef7A **2
66Chimney ButtressHS 4b *42
67Premium White
-
E1 5b *3
68Fear No Evil
-
E2 5c *1
69Slingsby's ChimneyHVD 4a **84
70Massive AttackE5 6b *2
71Small BrownE4 6b ***24
72Mighty WhiteE4 6b **11
73Wholemeal
-
E3 6a *13
74HovisE1 5c **159
75Hovis Directf6B *60
76Hovis Super Directf6C **42
77Flake WallHS 4b *150
78Flake Wall Direct Start
-
VS 4c 3
79Mothers Milk
-
VS 7
80SpellbinderHVS 5a *87
81Flake
-
S 99
82Moonshadow
-
HVS 5b *7
83Slingsby's Girdle
-
HVS 5a **2
 Left Hand Edge Boulders 
85Ron's Crack 2E3 6b *45
86Barry King Sizef7A 101
87Barry King Size SDf7A+ 32
88Gibber Rampf5+ 12
 Footprint Boulder 
90Footprint Arete LefthandHVS 5a 8
91Footprint Arete RighthandMVS 4b 12
92Footprint SlabMVS 4b 8
 Matterhorn Boulder 
94Layback CrackVS 4c 1
 Happy Landings Boulder 
96Happy Landingsf6B+ 9
97The Flakef6B+ 8
98Scoopf6C+ 10
99The Ribf6B 7
100Gritty Pocketsf5+ 9
101Uphill Strugglef7A *5
102The Aretef6A+  
 Ruffian Boulder 
104Crucifixf7A 8
105Sole Fusion
-
f8A 2
106The Ruffian
-
VS 4c 22
107The Urchin
-
VS 4c 15
 Gentian Boulder 
109Jason's Roof
-
f7C+ ***31
110Sideliner
-
f8A 3
111Gentian
-
S 8
112Sunshine Slab LefthandVS 4c 8
113Thin AirHVS 5a *13
114Sunshine Slab RighthandMVS 4a 13
 Heather Wall 
116Left Hand Route
-
VS 15
117Central RouteMVS 4b 4
118Right-Hand RouteVS 4c 3
 Farewell slab 
120Stepping OutVD 2
121Born AgainD 3
122High Step ClimbD 4
123Quashqui
-
HVS 5b *1
124WalkoverE3 6a **14
125A Lifetime's DreamE4 6b *4
126Walker's FarewellHVS 5b **92
127Pen Sketches
-
E2 6a 4
128WonderloafE2 5b *12
129Ice Fall
-
E2 5b *2
130Winter TraverseE1 5a *5
131Long Day
-
HVS 5a *7
132Leaf Crack and Slab
-
VS 4c *18
133Straight CrackHS 4a 10
 Slip 'n' Slide 
135Knuckle Crack
-
VS 4c *22
136KnuckledusterVS 4c 13
137Green Crack
-
VS 4b 19
138Duck 'n' DiveE5 6b *2
139Slip 'n' SlideE6 6a ***34
140Detachment TheoryE8 6b/c ***2
141Sunstroke DirectHVS 5b *6
142Sunstroke
-
HVS 5a *12
143Crooked chimney
-
VD 13
144Bull's Horns
-
VS 4c *18
145Bull's Eye
-
VS 4c *4
146Narrow Crack
-
MS 11
 Shelf Buttress 
148Chockstone ChimneyVD 65
149Buster DirectHVS 5b *40
150BusterS 4a **193
151Open ChimneyVD *81
152The ForagerVS 4c *69
153The ShelfE2 5b ***173
154Elm Tree Wall
-
E3 6a *8
155Long ClimbHS 4b ***410
156LyndhurstE1 5b **48
157Cat's WhiskersVS 4c *155
 Central Slab 
159The Jolly Pleasant Scramble
-
M 47
160Weirdo
-
f6A+  
161Arsenic SlabS 4a **409
162Arsenic Slab Directf6A *15
163Old LaceHVS 5a **237
164Old Lace Direct Start
-
HVS 5c 28
165Old Lace Direct
-
f4+ 4
166Arsenic Traverse
-
f6C+  
167Winter RainE2 5c 68
168Diagonal CrackVD **527
169Central Slab Right Hand (YGB prob 3)f3 3
170East of The RiverVS 5a 99
171OctopusS 4a *354
172Octopus DirectVS 4c *242
173Octopuses Right HandVS 4b 11
174Leaning Tower Arete
-
f6C+ 3
175Razorf7C ***14
176Perplexity
-
HVS 6a 3
177Induction
-
D 32
178Grovelhog
-
VD 14
179Face, Arete and Wall ClimbVD *111
180Gallowgate
-
f7B 1
181War Cry
-
f7B+  
182Running Battle
-
f7B  
183Indirect Little Crack
-
f6B+ 8
184Crack Climb
-
VD 12
185Easter CrackVD 16
186Crookrise Crack
-
S 4a *35
187Trunk
-
f6A 3
188Problem ButtressHS 4a 23
189Marginal
-
f6A+ 3
190Autumn
-
f6B 2
191Hard Candy
-
f6C  
192Pinch and Push
-
f6A  
 Craven Buttress 
194Smooth Arete
-
f6C 5
195Craven Mantel
-
f5 9
196Craven Slab
-
f5+ 7
197Craven Rightf5+ 3
198Moulson's ClimbS 4a 31
199A Reach too FarE3 6a  
200LonglurchE2 5c *9
201Long Lurch Variation SDSf7B+ 1
202Griffith's ChimneyHS 4b **43
203Chimney Variation
-
VS 5a 7
204Walker's WallHVS 5a *140
205Walker's Wall (direct start)f5+ *7
206Walker's Wall Chimney VariantHVS 5a *36
207Craven CrackVS 4c *223
208Jug Wall
-
HS 4b 10
209Frost Animals
-
HVS 5b 13
210Frost Animals
-
f5+ 3
211West Wall ClimbHS 4b *152
212Malcolm's Route
-
VS 4c *17
213Sole Direct
-
E3 6c 2
214Sole Direct
-
f7A  
215The SoleHVS 5b ***300
216The Sole Start
-
f5+ 2
217Family MattersHVS 5b **42
218Mother's Little HelperE2 5c *22
219Sole of Discretion
-
f7B+  
220Old Sole Traverse
-
f6C 2
221Slab and NoseS 4b *99
222Slab and Nose VariationsHVS 5a *53
223Slab and Nose Arete
-
f5 3
224Craven Traverse
-
f6A+ 11
225Full Craven Traverse
-
f6B+ 7
226Throttle Stop
-
f7B+  
 Chockstone Crack 
228Kendo Nagasaki
-
f7B+  
229Bilberry Crack
-
VS 4c *68
230Bilberry Eliminate
-
f6B+  
231Chockstone Crack
-
D *132
232Friction Slab
-
MVS 4b 8
233Hidden Wall
-
VS 4c 4
234Bilberry Wall
-
VS 5a 7
235Diet Pepsif6B 64
236Pepsi Max
-
f7A+ 5
237Gently Does It
-
f6A 2
238Ryan's Folly
-
D 28
 Ledge Buttress 
240Traverse and CrackVD *133
241Basic Training
-
S 22
242Tiger RagHS 4c *106
243Side Salad
-
VS 5a 1
244Leaning Wall
-
VS 5a 5
245Ledge ButtressVS 4c 11
246Twin Cracks
-
VS 4c *27
 End Slab 
248Dewhurst Mill
-
VS 4c *10
249Overhead ProjectionVS 4c 2
250Safe From Harm
-
f7A+  
251The Helpf6B+ 3
252Twilight
-
f6A  
253Twilight Zone
-
f7A+  
254Superlight
-
f7B+  
255Dirty Tackle
-
S 16
256Trivial Pursuit
-
VD 27
257Route 3S 4a *109
258Peep Show
-
f5  
259Ultra
-
f6B+ 1
260Right Returnf7A+ 2
261Route 4HVS 5c *72
262Cold Call
-
f7B+ 1
263Route 2.5HVS 5a *141
264Route 2VS 5a **492
265Route 1VD 222
266EdgeVS 5a *381
267A vicious Slice of MangoVS 4c 2
268A Malicious Cut of GrapefruitHVS 5a 2
269FacadeS 4c 3
270Cave Crack
-
VD 63
271Midget Morsel
-
MS 29
272Shelter Stone
-
HS 4b 27
 Kumbu Region 
274Fitou
-
E3 6b 2
275Pitou
-
E4 6b  
276Impossible Wall
-
f4 2
 Trojan Roof 
278Left Arete Risingf3 1
279Siege Wallf4 1
280War Horsef6A 1
281Trojan Roof
-
f8A  
 Big Nose 
283Big Nose P1f4 2
284Big Nose P2f5 4
285Big Nose P3f3 5
286Big Nose P4f5 2
287Big Nose P5f4 4
288Big Nose P6f3 5
 The Everest Boulder 
290High Plains Drifter
-
f7A  
291Ron's Crack If6C 9
292Palm Gem
-
f6C+ 11
293Sultan of Bling
-
f6B+ 1
294Grooved Arete (AKA Left Arete)
-
f6A 4
295Left Edgef6A 2
296Undercutf6B ** 
297Right Centref6C 1
298Right Aretef4+ 6
299Fly By Wire
-
f7B+  
300Renegade Piper
-
f7B+  
301Rampant Bilberryf6C+ 1
 Khumbu Cont. 
303Grotty Slab Sitterf5 1
304Easy Groovef3 1
305Nice Slabby Arete Sitterf6A 1
306Easy Scoop Sitterf5 1
307Jug Handlesf4+ 1
 Pitter Pat 
309The Rose Bowlf5 6
310Bowl Aretef4 9
311Pitter Patterf3 9
312Pitter Patter P2f5 5
313Pitter Patter P3f4 6
314Twistedf7A+ 1
315Moon Landingf5 *3
 Buckley Boulder 
 Sugar Spun 
318Sugar Sugar
-
f3 3
319Sugar Groove
-
f5 3
 Meat Cleaver 
 Cracked Slab 
322Cracked Slab
-
f5+ 1
323Runnel
-
f4 1
324Jugs
-
f5 1
325Soft Option
-
f6B  
 Pine Boulder 
327Steady Arete
-
f4 1
328Pine Arete
-
f6C+  
329Gordini
-
f7B+  
330Pine Groove
-
f6B+  
331Senna
-
f6C  
332Wharfe Traverse
-
f6C+  
 Woodside Buttress 
334Wallflower
-
VS 4b  
335Seres
-
VS 5a 1
336Woodside Buttress
-
VS 4b *13
337Woodside wall
-
S 12
338Grassy Gully
-
M 20
339Fern Crack
-
VD *27
340Fat Man's Agony
-
VD 9
341Embsay Buttress
-
HVS 9
 The Moorside Boulders 
 Snap 
344Left Wallf2 18
345Left Arete - Snap Boulderf2 21
346Central Wallf2 25
347Centre Rightf2 23
348The Right Aretef3+ 25
349Snap
-
f5 9
 Starsky 
351Solid Aretef4 13
352Fine Wall
-
f5+ 1
353Bold Aretef5 4
354Starsky Arete
-
f7A+ 1
 Low Block 
356Pocket Popf6B *2
 Dragon 
358Dragon Wall
-
f7C+  
359Magnum
-
f7C  
360Martin's Arete
-
f7A+ 1
361Truffle Wallf6B  
 Pathside Boulders 
363Pathside P1
-
f3 7
364Pathside P2
-
f3 11
365Pathside P3
-
f4 9
366Pathside P4
-
f4 9
367Pathside P5
-
f4 8
368Pathside P6
-
f3 7
369Pathside P7
-
f4 9
370Pathside P8
-
f3 8
371Pathside P9
-
f4 5
372Pathside P10
-
f3 5
373Pathside P11
-
f4 5
374Pathside P12
-
f3+ 5
 Approach Boulders 
376Nice Slab 1f3 12
377Nice Arete 1f3 12
378Nice Slab 2f4 11
379Nice Arete 2f4 11
380Nice Arete 3f4 5
381Nice Arete 4f3 11
382Nice Slab 3f4 11
383Nice Arete 5f3 11
 PENDING 
385Trench Foot
-
f6C+ 2
386Controlf6B 2
387Stone Roadf6A 8
388Softly Spokenf4+ 5
389Little Easy f3 5
390Short Lived f3 4
391Master Blaster
-
f7C  
392Finger Blaster
-
f6C  
393Splash Wall
-
f4+  
394Slab and Nose Wall
-
f5+  
395Footloose
-
f5+ 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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