Climbs 351
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 350m a.s.l
Faces SW

Sunset soloing on the grit. Ali on Hovis (E1 5c) at Crookrise, Yorkshire. © Jamie Moss

Crag features

One of Yorkshire's premier crags. South facing, quick drying and composed of best quality grit. Fine routes and boulder problems across a wide grade range - so something for just about everyone. Recently aquired by BMC.

Approach notes

Park at Embsay Reservoir, SD 999544, then walk along the side of the reservoir to the access point onto Barden Moor. Cross the stile onto the moor and follow the path steeply uphill for a few hundred metres passing the Pathside and  Approach Boulders eventually following the wall up onto the moor. Keep on a short way a until a number of stiles (5 of them) are reached enabling the wall to be crossed to reach the rocks.  The first stile is above End Slab.

Guidebooks

Northern England

The book is a selected route and crag guide although it still manages to pack over 2350 routes between its covers, spread across 44 crags. The main focus is on routes of all grades from Moderate to E9, but the best bouldering is also described.
More info
Scoop buttress has recently had a clean and is well worth a visit.
petellis - 22/Mar/09
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Fairies Chest
2 Pixie Tits
-
f7B+ 17
3 Pixie Tits (standing start) f6C 26
4 Gnome's Nips f6C+ 2
5 Troll's Arete f7A+ 8
6 Problem 2, Hobgoblin Boulder f7A * 3
  The Trig Point Boulders
  Boulder 1
9 Trig point boulder 1,problem 1
-
f7A * 1
  Boulder 2
11 The Bulge f6B+ ** 4
12 Mantel f3+ 7
13 Break Traverse f6B * 1
14 Jam Tomorrow f6C * 1
15 Left Arete Sitter f5 2
16 Right Arete
-
f3+ 7
17 The Wall f3+ 5
18 The Wall (Arete) f6A+ 2
19 Slopey Breaks Right Arete f5 2
20 Slopey Breaks (Trig Point boulder 2) f5 3
21 The Slots f5+ * 1
  Boulder 3
23 The Undercut f6C 1
24 Broken Crystal f6C 2
25 The Left Side f4 2
26 Second Run f5 1
27 The Middle f6B+ 2
28 Flake Slab f6A+ 2
  Boulder 4
30 The Wall f7A * 1
31 Neat Arete. f6A+ ** 1
32 Dino Might? f6C * 1
33 Glory Wall
-
f6A 2
34 Curving Arete
-
f5 * 6
35 The Flake f3 * 7
  Evasion Buttress
37 Avoidance S 4a 3
38 Evasion VS 5a 1
  Green Buttress
40 Agag E2 5c 1
  Scoop Buttress
42 Karjala
-
f7A 44
43 Karjala Right f6B 2
44 The Scoop HS 4b 15
45 Mindless HVS 5a * 1
46 Mindbender E1 5b * 5
47 Scoop Wall
-
MVS 4a 10
  SADCOCS Boulder
49 The Left -Hand Rib f5+ 3
50 Hanging Flake f6B+ 3
51 Sadcocs Wall
-
f6C 27
52 Right Hand End f5+ * 19
53 Traverse Big Break On Sadcocks Wall f5+ 57
54 Sadcocs Low Traverse f6C 3
  Slingsby's Pinnacle
56 Streaklet E3 6b 3
57 Rushlight S 4a 139
58 Rushlight (variant) MVS 4b 18
59 Crease VS 5a ** 140
60 Crease Direct - Route f6A+ ** 153
61 Crease Arete E2 6a 7
62 Crease Direct Start - Boulder Problem f6A 88
63 Crease Direct Slab f6B * 5
64 The Fly f7B+ ** 13
65 Fly ArĂȘte f7A ** 2
66 Chimney Buttress HS 4b * 49
67 Premium White
-
E1 5b * 3
68 Fear No Evil
-
E2 5c * 1
69 Slingsby's Chimney HVD 4a ** 91
70 Massive Attack E5 6b * 2
71 Small Brown E4 6b *** 24
72 Mighty White E4 6b ** 12
73 Wholemeal
-
E3 6a * 14
74 Hovis E1 5c ** 167
75 Hovis Direct f6B * 60
76 Hovis Super Direct f6C ** 41
77 Flake Wall HS 4b * 158
78 Flake Wall Direct Start
-
VS 4c 3
79 Mothers Milk
-
VS 7
80 Spellbinder HVS 5a * 91
81 Flake
-
S 104
82 Moonshadow
-
HVS 5b * 7
83 Slingsby's Girdle
-
HVS 5a ** 2
  Left Hand Edge Boulders
85 Ron's Crack 2 E3 6b * 44
86 Barry King Size f7A 100
87 Barry King Size SD f7A+ 33
88 Gibber Ramp f5+ 14
  Footprint Boulder
90 Footprint Arete Lefthand HVS 5a 8
91 Footprint Arete Righthand MVS 4b 12
92 Footprint Slab MVS 4b 8
  Matterhorn Boulder
94 Layback Crack VS 4c 1
  Happy Landings Boulder
96 Happy Landings f6B+ 9
97 The Flake f6B+ 9
98 Scoop f6C+ 10
99 The Rib f6B 7
100 Gritty Pockets f5+ 9
101 Uphill Struggle f7A * 5
102 The Arete f6A+  
  Ruffian Boulder
104 Crucifix f7A 8
105 Sole Fusion
-
f8A 2
106 The Ruffian
-
VS 4c 23
107 The Urchin
-
VS 4c 15
  Gentian Boulder
109 Jason's Roof
-
f7C+ *** 12
110 Sideliner
-
f8A 3
111 Gentian
-
S 8
112 Sunshine Slab Lefthand VS 4c 8
113 Thin Air HVS 5a * 13
114 Sunshine Slab Righthand MVS 4a 13
  Heather Wall
116 Left Hand Route
-
VS 15
117 Central Route MVS 4b 4
118 Right-Hand Route VS 4c 4
  Farewell slab
120 Stepping Out VD 2
121 Born Again D 3
122 High Step Climb D 4
123 Quashqui
-
HVS 5b * 1
124 Walkover E3 6a ** 14
125 A Lifetime's Dream E4 6b * 4
126 Walker's Farewell HVS 5b ** 94
127 Pen Sketches
-
E2 6a 4
128 Wonderloaf E2 5b * 12
129 Ice Fall
-
E2 5b * 2
130 Winter Traverse E1 5a * 6
131 Long Day
-
HVS 5a * 6
132 Leaf Crack and Slab
-
VS 4c * 18
133 Straight Crack HS 4a 10
  Slip 'n' Slide
135 Knuckle Crack
-
VS 4c * 23
136 Knuckleduster VS 4c 14
137 Green Crack
-
VS 4b 20
138 Duck 'n' Dive E5 6b * 2
139 Slip 'n' Slide E6 6a *** 34
140 Detachment Theory E8 6b/c *** 2
141 Sunstroke Direct HVS 5b * 6
142 Sunstroke
-
HVS 5a * 13
143 Crooked chimney
-
VD 13
144 Bull's Horns
-
VS 4c * 18
145 Bull's Eye
-
VS 4c * 4
146 Narrow Crack
-
MS 11
  Shelf Buttress
148 Chockstone Chimney VD 72
149 Buster Direct HVS 5b * 40
150 Buster S 4a ** 203
151 Open Chimney VD * 86
152 The Forager VS 4c * 75
153 The Shelf E2 5b *** 180
154 Elm Tree Wall
-
E3 6a * 8
155 Long Climb HS 4b *** 430
156 Lyndhurst E1 5b ** 46
157 Cat's Whiskers VS 4c * 161
  Central Slab
159 The Jolly Pleasant Scramble
-
M 49
160 Weirdo
-
f6A+  
161 Arsenic Slab S 4a ** 428
162 Arsenic Slab Direct f6A * 16
163 Old Lace HVS 5a ** 243
164 Old Lace Direct Start
-
HVS 5c 29
165 Old Lace Direct
-
f4+ 4
166 Arsenic Traverse
-
f6C+  
167 Winter Rain E2 5c 68
168 Diagonal Crack VD ** 565
169 Central Slab Right Hand (YGB prob 3) f3 3
170 East of The River VS 5a 100
171 Octopus S 4a * 376
172 Octopus Direct VS 4c * 250
173 Octopuses Right Hand VS 4b 17
174 Leaning Tower Arete
-
f6C+ 3
175 Razor f7C *** 12
176 Perplexity
-
HVS 6a 3
177 Induction
-
D 33
178 Grovelhog
-
VD 14
179 Face, Arete and Wall Climb VD * 122
180 Gallowgate
-
f7B 2
181 War Cry
-
f7B+ 1
182 Running Battle
-
f7B  
183 Indirect Little Crack
-
f6B+ 8
184 Crack Climb
-
VD 12
185 Easter Crack VD 16
186 Crookrise Crack
-
S 4a * 35
187 Trunk
-
f6A 3
188 Problem Buttress HS 4a 23
189 Marginal
-
f6A+ 3
190 Autumn
-
f6B 2
191 Hard Candy
-
f6C  
192 Pinch and Push
-
f6A  
  Craven Buttress
194 Smooth Arete
-
f6C 6
195 Craven Mantel
-
f5 11
196 Craven Slab
-
f5+ 8
197 Craven Right f5+ 3
198 Moulson's Climb S 4a 31
199 A Reach too Far E3 6a  
200 Longlurch E2 5c * 10
201 Long Lurch Variation SDS f7B+ 1
202 Griffith's Chimney HS 4b ** 47
203 Chimney Variation
-
VS 5a 7
204 Walker's Wall HVS 5a * 144
205 Walker's Wall (direct start) f5+ * 7
206 Walker's Wall Chimney Variant HVS 5a * 36
207 Craven Crack VS 4c * 230
208 Jug Wall
-
HS 4b 10
209 Frost Animals
-
HVS 5b 13
210 Frost Animals
-
f5+ 3
211 West Wall Climb HS 4b * 159
212 Malcolm's Route
-
VS 4c * 18
213 Sole Direct
-
E3 6c 2
214 Sole Direct
-
f7A  
215 The Sole HVS 5b *** 315
216 The Sole Start
-
f5+ 2
217 Family Matters HVS 5b ** 44
218 Mother's Little Helper E2 5c * 22
219 Sole of Discretion
-
f7B+  
220 Old Sole Traverse
-
f6C 2
221 Slab and Nose S 4b * 103
222 Slab and Nose Variations HVS 5a * 53
223 Slab and Nose Arete
-
f5 3
224 Craven Traverse
-
f6A+ 14
225 Full Craven Traverse
-
f6B+ 7
226 Throttle Stop
-
f7B+  
227 Gritstone Gecko *
-
f6C+ 1
  Chockstone Crack
229 Kendo Nagasaki
-
f7B+  
230 Bilberry Crack
-
VS 4c * 73
231 Bilberry Eliminate
-
f6B+  
232 Chockstone Crack
-
D * 138
233 Friction Slab
-
MVS 4b 8
234 Hidden Wall
-
VS 4c 4
235 Bilberry Wall
-
VS 5a 7
236 Diet Pepsi f6B 73
237 Pepsi Max
-
f7A+ 2
238 Gently Does It
-
f6A 2
239 Ryan's Folly
-
D 30
  Ledge Buttress
241 Traverse and Crack VD * 140
242 Basic Training
-
S 22
243 Tiger Rag HS 4c * 109
244 Side Salad
-
VS 5a 1
245 Leaning Wall
-
VS 5a 5
246 Ledge Buttress VS 4c 11
247 Twin Cracks
-
VS 4c * 26
  End Slab
249 Dewhurst Mill
-
VS 4c * 10
250 Overhead Projection VS 4c 2
251 Safe From Harm
-
f7A+  
252 The Help f6B+ 4
253 Twilight
-
f6A  
254 Twilight Zone
-
f7A+  
255 Superlight
-
f7B+  
256 Dirty Tackle
-
S 16
257 Trivial Pursuit
-
VD 27
258 Route 3 S 4a * 112
259 Peep Show
-
f5  
260 Ultra
-
f6B+ 1
261 Right Return f7A+ 2
262 Route 4 HVS 5c * 72
263 Cold Call
-
f7B+ 1
264 Route 2.5 HVS 5a * 143
265 Route 2 VS 5a ** 508
266 Route 1 VD 234
267 Edge VS 5a * 404
268 A vicious Slice of Mango VS 4c 2
269 A Malicious Cut of Grapefruit HVS 5a 2
270 Facade S 4c 3
271 Cave Crack
-
VD 65
272 Midget Morsel
-
MS 29
273 Shelter Stone
-
HS 4b 27
  Kumbu Region
275 Fitou
-
E3 6b 2
276 Pitou
-
E4 6b  
277 Impossible Wall
-
f4 2
  Trojan Roof
279 Left Arete Rising f3 1
280 Siege Wall f4 1
281 War Horse f6A 1
282 Trojan Roof
-
f8A  
  Big Nose
284 Big Nose P1 f4 2
285 Big Nose P2 f5 4
286 Big Nose P3 f3 5
287 Big Nose P4 f5 2
288 Big Nose P5 f4 4
289 Big Nose P6 f3 5
  The Everest Boulder
291 High Plains Drifter
-
f7A 2
292 Ron's Crack I f6C 14
293 Palm Gem
-
f6C+ 12
294 Sultan of Bling
-
f6B+ 1
295 Grooved Arete (AKA Left Arete)
-
f6A 4
296 Left Edge f6A 2
297 Undercut f6B **  
298 Right Centre f6C 2
299 Right Arete f4+ 7
300 Fly By Wire
-
f7B+  
301 Renegade Piper
-
f7B+  
302 Rampant Bilberry f6C+ 1
  Khumbu Cont.
304 Grotty Slab Sitter f5 1
305 Easy Groove f3 1
306 Nice Slabby Arete Sitter f6A 1
307 Easy Scoop Sitter f5 1
308 Jug Handles f4+ 1
  Pitter Pat
310 The Rose Bowl f5 7
311 Bowl Arete f4 10
312 Pitter Patter f3 10
313 Pitter Patter P2 f5 5
314 Pitter Patter P3 f4 6
315 Twisted f7A+ 1
316 Moon Landing f5 * 4
  Buckley Boulder
  Sugar Spun
319 Sugar Sugar
-
f3 3
320 Sugar Groove
-
f5 3
  Meat Cleaver
  Cracked Slab
323 Cracked Slab
-
f5+ 1
324 Runnel
-
f4 1
325 Jugs
-
f5 1
326 Soft Option
-
f6B  
  Pine Boulder
328 Steady Arete
-
f4 1
329 Pine Arete
-
f6C+  
330 Gordini
-
f7B+  
331 Pine Groove
-
f6B+  
332 Senna
-
f6C  
333 Wharfe Traverse
-
f6C+  
  Woodside Buttress
335 Wallflower
-
VS 4b  
336 Seres
-
VS 5a 1
337 Woodside Buttress
-
VS 4b * 13
338 Woodside wall
-
S 12
339 Grassy Gully
-
M 20
340 Fern Crack
-
VD * 27
341 Fat Man's Agony
-
VD 9
342 Embsay Buttress
-
HVS 9
  The Moorside Boulders
  Snap
345 Left Wall f2 19
346 Left Arete - Snap Boulder f2 27
347 Central Wall f2 31
348 Centre Right f2 28
349 The Right Arete f3+ 31
350 Snap
-
f5 9
  Starsky
352 Solid Arete f4 15
353 Fine Wall
-
f5+ 2
354 Bold Arete f5 4
355 Starsky Arete
-
f7A+ 2
  Low Block
357 Pocket Pop f6B * 2
358 Pinch Pop *
-
V7 1
  Dragon
360 Dragon Wall
-
f7C+  
361 Magnum
-
f7C  
362 Martin's Arete
-
f7A+ 2
363 Truffle Wall f6B  
  Pathside Boulders
365 Pathside P1
-
f3 7
366 Pathside P2
-
f3 11
367 Pathside P3
-
f4 9
368 Pathside P4
-
f4 9
369 Pathside P5
-
f4 8
370 Pathside P6
-
f3 7
371 Pathside P7
-
f4 9
372 Pathside P8
-
f3 8
373 Pathside P9
-
f4 5
374 Pathside P10
-
f3 5
375 Pathside P11
-
f4 5
376 Pathside P12
-
f3+ 5
  Approach Boulders
378 Nice Slab 1 f3 18
379 Nice Arete 1 f3 18
380 Nice Slab 2 f4 17
381 Nice Arete 2 f4 17
382 Nice Arete 3 f4 6
383 Nice Arete 4 f3 17
384 Nice Slab 3 f4 17
385 Nice Arete 5 f3 17
  PENDING
387 Trench Foot
-
f6C+ 3
388 Control f6B 2
389 Stone Road f6A 9
390 Softly Spoken f4+ 5
391 Little Easy f3 5
392 Short Lived f3 4
393 Master Blaster
-
f7C  
394 Finger Blaster
-
f6C  
395 Splash Wall
-
f4+  
396 Slab and Nose Wall
-
f5+  
397 Footloose
-
f5+ 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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