UKC

Climbs 390
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 350m a.s.l
Faces SW

Sunset soloing on the grit. Ali on Hovis (E1 5c) at Crookrise, Yorkshire. © Jamie Moss

Crag features

One of Yorkshire's premier crags. South facing, quick drying and composed of best quality grit. Fine routes and boulder problems across a wide grade range - so something for just about everyone. Recently aquired by BMC.

Approach notes

Park at Embsay Reservoir, SD 999544, then walk along the side of the reservoir to the access point onto Barden Moor. Cross the stile onto the moor and follow the path steeply uphill for a few hundred metres passing the Pathside and  Approach Boulders eventually following the wall up onto the moor. Keep on a short way a until a number of stiles (5 of them) are reached enabling the wall to be crossed to reach the rocks.  The first stile is above End Slab.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

Northern England

The book is a selected route and crag guide although it still manages to pack over 2350 routes between its covers, spread across 44 crags. The main focus is on routes of all grades from Moderate to E9, but the best bouldering is also described.
More info
Scoop buttress has recently had a clean and is well worth a visit.
petellis - 22/Mar/09
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Fairies Chest
2 Pixie Tits
-
f7B+ 12
3 Pixie Tits (standing start) f6C 28
4 Gnome's Nips f6C+ 2
5 Fairy Dust f8A+  
6 Bathycolpian Dreams f8A+ **  
7 Troll's Arete f7A+ 10
8 Problem 2, Hobgoblin Boulder f7A * 3
9 Dave's Wall f7B+ **  
10 Full of Sprites f7C *  
11 Pocket Rockets f7A * 1
  The Trig Point Boulders
  Boulder 1
14 Trig point boulder 1,problem 1
-
f7A * 1
15 The Flake SS *
-
V7 1
  Boulder 2
17 The Bulge f6B+ ** 4
18 Mantel f3+ 10
19 Break Traverse f6B * 1
20 Jam Tomorrow f6C * 1
21 Left Arete Sitter f5 3
22 Right Arete
-
f3+ 7
23 The Wall f3+ 5
24 The Wall (Arete) f6A+ 2
25 Slopey Breaks Right Arete f5 2
26 Slopey Breaks (Trig Point boulder 2) f5 3
27 The Slots f5+ * 1
28 The Jam * V6  
29 The Break * V6  
  Boulder 3
31 The Undercut f6C 1
32 Broken Crystal f6C 2
33 The Left Side f4 4
34 Second Run f5 1
35 The Middle f6B+ 6
36 Flake Slab f6A+ 2
  Boulder 4
38 The Wall f7A * 2
39 Neat Arete. f6A+ ** 1
40 Dino Might? f6C * 1
41 Glory Wall
-
f6A 2
42 Curving Arete
-
f5 * 7
43 The Flake f3 * 8
  Evasion Buttress
45 Avoidance S 4a 3
46 Evasion VS 5a 1
47 Aversion * E3 6b *  
  Green Buttress
49 Agag E2 5c 1
50 Wailing Wall * HVS 5a  
51 Agag Arete * E1 5b  
52 Greenland P * E3 6b  
53 Green Fingers * E2 5c  
54 Green Velvet * E2 5c *  
  Scoop Buttress
56 Karjala
-
f7A 67
57 Karjala Right f6B 2
58 The Scoop HS 4b 17
59 Mindless HVS 5a * 1
60 Mindbender E1 5b * 5
61 Scoop Wall
-
MVS 4a 11
  SADCOCS Boulder
63 The Left -Hand Rib f5+ 7
64 Hanging Flake f6B+ 6
65 Sadcocs Wall
-
f6C 41
66 Right Hand End f5+ * 22
67 Traverse Big Break On Sadcocks Wall f5+ 65
68 Sadcocs Low Traverse f6C 4
69 They Call Me Mr Tibbs *
-
V6 1
70 The Defiant One *
-
V8+  
71 Morokolli * V7  
  Slingsby's Pinnacle
73 Streaklet E3 6b 3
74 Rushlight S 4a 148
75 Rushlight (variant) MVS 4b 19
76 Crease VS 5a ** 152
77 Crease Direct - Route f6A+ ** 162
78 Crease Arete E2 6a 7
79 Crease Direct Start - Boulder Problem f6A 105
80 Crease Direct Slab f6B * 7
81 The Fly f7B+ ** 20
82 Fly ArĂȘte f7A ** 2
83 Chimney Buttress HS 4b * 51
84 Premium White
-
E1 5b * 3
85 Fear No Evil
-
E2 5c * 1
86 Slingsby's Chimney HVD 4a ** 94
87 Massive Attack E5 6b * 6
88 Small Brown E4 6b *** 28
89 Small Brown Direct E4 6a *** 2
90 Mighty White E4 6b ** 12
91 Wholemeal
-
E3 6a * 14
92 Hovis E1 5c ** 169
93 Hovis Direct f6B * 65
94 Hovis Super Direct f6C ** 47
95 Flake Wall HS 4b * 174
96 Flake Wall Direct Start
-
VS 4c 5
97 Mothers Milk
-
VS 8
98 Spellbinder HVS 5a * 103
99 Flake
-
S 108
100 Moonshadow
-
HVS 5b * 8
101 Slingsby's Girdle
-
HVS 5a ** 2
  Left Hand Edge Boulders
103 Ron's Crack 2 E3 6b * 53
104 Barry King Size f7A 141
105 Barry King Size SD f7A+ 47
106 Gibber Ramp f5+ 20
  Footprint Boulder
108 Footprint Arete Lefthand HVS 5a 8
109 Footprint Arete Righthand MVS 4b 12
110 Footprint Slab MVS 4b 8
  Matterhorn Boulder
112 Layback Crack VS 4c 1
  Happy Landings Boulder
114 Happy Landings f6B+ 10
115 The Flake f6B+ 9
116 Scoop f6C+ 10
117 The Rib f6B 7
118 Gritty Pockets f5+ 9
119 Uphill Struggle f7A * 5
120 The Arete f6A+  
  Ruffian Boulder
122 Crucifix f7A 10
123 Sole Fusion
-
f8A 5
124 The Ruffian
-
VS 4c 27
125 The Urchin
-
VS 4c 16
  Gentian Boulder
127 Jason's Roof
-
f7C+ *** 16
128 Sideliner
-
f8A 6
129 Gentian
-
S 9
130 Sunshine Slab Lefthand VS 4c 9
131 Thin Air HVS 5a * 14
132 Sunshine Slab Righthand MVS 4a 14
  Heather Wall
134 Left Hand Route
-
VS 15
135 Central Route MVS 4b 5
136 Right-Hand Route VS 4c 5
  Farewell slab
138 Stepping Out VD 2
139 Born Again D 3
140 High Step Climb D 5
141 Quashqui
-
HVS 5b * 1
142 Walkover E3 6a ** 15
143 A Lifetime's Dream E4 6b * 4
144 Walker's Farewell HVS 5b ** 101
145 Pen Sketches
-
E2 6a 4
146 Wonderloaf E2 5b * 13
Climb name Grade
147 Ice Fall
-
E2 5b * 2
148 Winter Traverse E1 5a * 5
149 Long Day
-
HVS 5a * 8
150 Leaf Crack and Slab
-
VS 4c * 19
151 Straight Crack HS 4a 10
  Slip 'n' Slide
153 Knuckle Crack
-
VS 4c * 26
154 Knuckleduster VS 4c 17
155 Green Crack
-
VS 4b 22
156 Duck 'n' Dive E5 6b * 2
157 Slip 'n' Slide E6 6a *** 29
158 Sit and slide f7B *  
159 Detachment Theory E8 6b/c *** 2
160 Sunstroke Direct HVS 5b * 6
161 Sunstroke
-
HVS 5a * 14
162 Crooked chimney
-
VD 16
163 Bull's Horns
-
VS 4c * 21
164 Bull's Eye
-
VS 4c * 4
165 Narrow Crack
-
MS 11
  Shelf Buttress
167 Chockstone Chimney VD 82
168 Buster Direct HVS 5b * 42
169 Buster S 4a ** 230
170 Open Chimney VD * 101
171 The Forager VS 4c * 87
172 The Shelf E2 5b *** 175
173 Elm Tree Wall
-
E3 6a * 9
174 Long Climb HS 4b *** 473
175 Lyndhurst E1 5b ** 50
176 Cat's Whiskers VS 4c * 176
  Central Slab
178 The Jolly Pleasant Scramble
-
M 53
179 Weirdo
-
f6A+  
180 Arsenic Slab S 4a ** 461
181 Arsenic Slab Direct f6A * 16
182 Old Lace HVS 5a ** 257
183 Old Lace Direct Start
-
HVS 5c 32
184 Old Lace Direct
-
f4+ 4
185 Arsenic Traverse
-
f6C+  
186 Winter Rain E2 5c 69
187 Diagonal Crack VD ** 614
188 Central Slab Right Hand (YGB prob 3) f3 3
189 East of The River VS 5a 112
190 Octopus S 4a * 406
191 Octopus Direct VS 4c * 274
192 Octopuses Right Hand VS 4b 27
193 Leaning Tower Arete
-
f6C+ 3
194 Razor f7C *** 16
195 Perplexity
-
HVS 6a 3
196 Induction
-
D 33
197 Grovelhog
-
VD 19
198 Face, Arete and Wall Climb VD * 130
199 Gallowgate
-
f7B 2
200 War Cry
-
f7B+ 1
201 Running Battle
-
f7B 1
202 Indirect Little Crack
-
f6B+ 8
203 Crack Climb
-
VD 13
204 Easter Crack VD 17
205 Crookrise Crack
-
S 4a * 36
206 Trunk
-
f6A 3
207 Problem Buttress HS 4a 24
208 Marginal
-
f6A+ 3
209 Autumn
-
f6B 2
210 Hard Candy
-
f6C  
211 Pinch and Push
-
f6A  
  Craven Buttress
213 Smooth Arete
-
f6C 6
214 Craven Mantel
-
f5 14
215 Craven Slab
-
f5+ 8
216 Craven Right f5+ 3
217 Moulson's Climb S 4a 36
218 A Reach too Far E3 6a  
219 Longlurch E2 5c * 10
220 Long Lurch Variation SDS f7B+ 1
221 Griffith's Chimney HS 4b ** 45
222 Chimney Variation
-
VS 5a 9
223 Walker's Wall HVS 5a * 149
224 Walker's Wall (direct start) f5+ * 8
225 Walker's Wall Chimney Variant HVS 5a * 37
226 Craven Crack VS 4c * 242
227 Jug Wall
-
HS 4b 12
228 Frost Animals
-
HVS 5b 15
229 Frost Animals
-
f5+ 3
230 West Wall Climb HS 4b * 173
231 Malcolm's Route
-
VS 4c * 19
232 Sole Direct
-
E3 6c 2
233 Sole Direct
-
f7A  
234 The Sole HVS 5b *** 316
235 The Sole Start
-
f5+ 5
236 Family Matters HVS 5b ** 46
237 Mother's Little Helper E2 5c * 23
238 Sole of Discretion
-
f7B+  
239 Old Sole Traverse
-
f6C 2
240 Slab and Nose S 4b * 111
241 Slab and Nose Variations HVS 5a * 54
242 Slab and Nose Arete
-
f5 4
243 Craven Traverse
-
f6A+ 15
244 Full Craven Traverse
-
f6B+ 9
245 Throttle Stop
-
f7B+  
246 Gritstone Gecko
-
f6C+ 1
  Chockstone Crack
248 Kendo Nagasaki
-
f7B+  
249 Bilberry Crack
-
VS 4c * 81
250 Bilberry Eliminate
-
f6B+  
251 Chockstone Crack
-
D * 154
252 Friction Slab
-
MVS 4b 8
253 Hidden Wall
-
VS 4c 4
254 Bilberry Wall
-
VS 5a 7
255 Diet Pepsi f6B 91
256 Pepsi Max
-
f7A+ 4
257 Gently Does It
-
f6A 2
258 Ryan's Folly
-
D 33
  Ledge Buttress
260 Traverse and Crack VD * 154
261 Basic Training
-
S 24
262 Tiger Rag HS 4c * 121
263 Side Salad
-
VS 5a 1
264 Leaning Wall
-
VS 5a 5
265 Ledge Buttress VS 4c 11
266 Twin Cracks
-
VS 4c * 28
  End Slab
268 Dewhurst Mill
-
VS 4c * 11
269 Overhead Projection VS 4c 2
270 Safe From Harm
-
f7A+  
271 The Help f6B+ 4
272 Twilight
-
f6A  
273 Twilight Zone
-
f7A+  
274 Superlight
-
f7B+  
275 Anonymous Slab S 4a 1
276 Dirty Tackle
-
S 16
277 Trivial Pursuit
-
VD 29
278 Climb In Silence E2 6a ** 1
279 Route 3 S 4a * 124
280 Peep Show
-
f5  
281 Ultra
-
f6B+ 1
282 Right Return f7A+ 2
283 Route 4 HVS 5c * 77
284 Cold Call
-
f7B+ 1
285 Route 2.5 HVS 5a * 150
286 Route 2 VS 5a ** 542
287 Route 1 VD 251
288 Edge VS 5a * 426
289 A vicious Slice of Mango VS 4c 3
290 A Malicious Cut of Grapefruit HVS 5a 2
291 Facade S 4c 4
292 Cave Crack
-
VD 69
Climb name Grade
293 Midget Morsel
-
MS 31
294 Shelter Stone
-
HS 4b 27
  Kumbu Region
296 Fitou
-
E3 6b 2
297 Pitou
-
E4 6b  
298 Impossible Wall
-
f4 4
  Trojan Roof
300 Left Arete Rising f3 1
301 Siege Wall f4 1
302 War Horse f6A 1
303 Trojan Roof
-
f8A  
  Big Nose
305 Big Nose P1 f4 2
306 Big Nose P2 f5 4
307 Big Nose P3 f3 5
308 Big Nose P4 f5 2
309 Big Nose P5 f4 4
310 Big Nose P6 f3 5
  The Everest Boulder
312 High Plains Drifter
-
f7A 2
313 Ron's Crack I f6C 16
314 Palm Gem
-
f6C+ 14
315 Sultan of Bling
-
f6B+ 1
316 Grooved Arete (AKA Left Arete)
-
f6A 4
317 Left Edge f6A 2
318 Undercut f6B **  
319 Right Centre f6C 2
320 Right Arete f4+ 7
321 Fly By Wire
-
f7B+  
322 Renegade Piper
-
f7B+  
323 Rampant Bilberry f6C+ 1
  Khumbu Cont.
325 Grotty Slab Sitter f5 1
326 Easy Groove f3 1
327 Nice Slabby Arete Sitter f6A 1
328 Easy Scoop Sitter f5 1
329 Jug Handles f4+ 1
  Pitter Pat
331 The Rose Bowl f5 7
332 Bowl Arete f4 10
333 Pitter Patter f3 10
334 Pitter Patter P2 f5 5
335 Pitter Patter P3 f4 6
336 Twisted f7A+ 1
337 Moon Landing f5 * 4
  Buckley Boulder
339 Mono Pin *
-
V7  
340 Sugar Spun *
-
V7  
341 Lilac Wine *
-
V8+  
342 Last Goodbye *
-
V9  
  Sugar Spun
344 Sugar Sugar
-
f3 3
345 Sugar Groove
-
f5 3
  Meat Cleaver
347 Meat Cleaver *
-
V7  
348 Dream Weaver *
-
V6  
  Cracked Slab
350 Cracked Slab
-
f5+ 1
351 Runnel
-
f4 1
352 Jugs
-
f5 1
353 Soft Option
-
f6B  
  Pine Boulder
355 Steady Arete
-
f4 1
356 Pine Arete
-
f6C+  
357 Gordini
-
f7B+  
358 Pine Groove
-
f6B+  
359 Senna
-
f6C  
360 Wharfe Traverse
-
f6C+  
  Woodside Buttress
362 Wallflower
-
VS 4b  
363 Seres
-
VS 5a 1
364 Woodside Buttress
-
VS 4b * 13
365 Woodside wall
-
S 12
366 Grassy Gully
-
M 20
367 Fern Crack
-
VD * 27
368 Fat Man's Agony
-
VD 9
369 Embsay Buttress
-
HVS 9
370 The Hunted * V6  
371 The Unforgiven *
-
V7  
372 Mucho Khumbu *
-
V8+  
373 Deviation *
-
V8+  
374 Bullwork *
-
V6  
375 Snapper *
-
V6  
376 Pine Arete *
-
V7  
377 Gordini *
-
V8+  
378 Pine Groove *
-
V8  
379 Senna *
-
V8  
  The Moorside Boulders
  Snap
382 Left Wall f2 21
383 Left Arete - Snap Boulder f2 29
384 Central Wall f2 36
385 Centre Right f2 30
386 The Right Arete f3+ 33
387 Snap
-
f5 11
  Starsky
389 Solid Arete f4 20
390 Fine Wall
-
f5+ 3
391 Bold Arete f5 4
392 Starsky Arete
-
f7A+ 5
  Low Block
394 Pocket Pop f6B * 6
395 Pinch Pop
-
V7 1
  Dragon
397 Dragon Wall
-
f7C+  
398 Magnum
-
f7C  
399 Martin's Arete
-
f7A+ 2
400 Truffle Wall f6B  
  Pathside Boulders
402 Pathside P1
-
f3 7
403 Pathside P2
-
f3 11
404 Pathside P3
-
f4 9
405 Pathside P4
-
f4 9
406 Pathside P5
-
f4 8
407 Pathside P6
-
f3 7
408 Pathside P7
-
f4 9
409 Pathside P8
-
f3 8
410 Pathside P9
-
f4 5
411 Pathside P10
-
f3 5
412 Pathside P11
-
f4 5
413 Pathside P12
-
f3+ 5
  Approach Boulders
415 Nice Slab 1 f3 35
416 Nice Arete 1 f3 35
417 Nice Slab 2 f4 34
418 Nice Arete 2 f4 34
419 Nice Arete 3 f4 14
420 Nice Arete 4 f3 34
421 Nice Slab 3 f4 32
422 Nice Arete 5 f3 31
  PENDING
424 Trench Foot
-
f6C+ 5
425 Control f6B 2
426 Stone Road f6A 13
427 Softly Spoken f4+ 7
428 Little Easy f3 9
429 Short Lived f3 5
430 Master Blaster
-
f7C  
431 Finger Blaster
-
f6C  
432 Splash Wall
-
f4+  
433 Slab and Nose Wall
-
f5+  
434 Footloose
-
f5+ 1
435 The Groove E4 6b ** 2
436 Carlsson Arete *
-
V7  
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderators Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteers GPN and Paul Clarke