Climbs 296
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 300m a.s.l
Faces NW

Earl in an evening © Adam Ellwood

Crag features

Often overlooked, Earl Crag provides a wealth of mini classics and excellent bouldering. Cold, bleak and windy in the winter, it provides a shady spot on blistering summer days, and a light breeze will deter even the most persistent midges.
The edge is about 1km long and split into three main sections, with a wealth of bouldering at each end. Routes of worth are Earl Crack (VS), Erasor Slab (HVS), Fishladder (E1 5b) and Earl Buttress (E2 5c). Harder climbs include The Kipper (E4 6a) and the immaculate Desert Island Arete (E6 6c). If climbing away from the crowds is on the books, this is the Yorkshire crag for you. [Jon Dittman]

Approach notes

Parking for the crag is either under the pepperpot-shaped tower, or in a small car park about 0.5 km south of the pinnacle. Footpaths lead to the crag.
The crag is on private land, but climbing is tolerated. Dogs should be kept on a lead at all times and large groups should be discouraged. [Jon Dittman]

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Guidebooks

Northern England

The book is a selected route and crag guide although it still manages to pack over 2350 routes between its covers, spread across 44 crags. The main focus is on routes of all grades from Moderate to E9, but the best bouldering is also described.
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Quarried Bay
2 After Dark f7C+  
3 In Stitches f7B  
4 Sicca
-
V6  
5 Riddance E4 6a * 1
6 The Underhand Man
-
E5 6c  
7 Desperate for Fame
-
E3 5c  
8 No Holes Barred
-
E2 5c  
9 No Holds Barred
-
E3 6a  
10 Thuggery
-
E2 5c  
11 Sootbags
-
V6  
12 Sobieski's Winged Hussars
-
E4 6a  
13 The Offwidth
-
E2 5b 2
  TC 1.1 First Boulder
15 Small Arete Left
-
f5+ 10
16 Small Arete Right
-
f5+ 7
  Scoops Boulder
18 Nose
-
f5+ 1
19 Scoops Left
-
f5+ 4
20 Scoops Right
-
f5+ 2
  TC 1.2 Hanging Wall - Tilted Block
22 Cirque du Freak
-
f8A+  
23 Hanging Wall
-
f7A 8
24 Hanging wall Sit start f7B 1
25 Allez Retour
-
f6B 3
  TC 1.3 Problem Wall - Bad Seed
27 Bad Seed
-
f6B 4
28 Problem Wall
-
f6C 2
  Pitch At Will
30 Pitch at Will f5  
31 Frustration
-
f6B  
32 Dean's Arete f7A  
  Mind Bomb Area
34 Full Tilt f7B *  
35 Old Timothy VS 4b 4
36 Zippergate
-
E2 5b  
37 Pitch at Will E1 5b * 5
38 Tick-Tock Man VS 4c 3
39 The Pendulum Traverse f5 1
40 The Baron of Boing
-
E8 6c  
41 Mind Bomb E7 6c *  
42 French Duke
-
E9 7a  
43 Early Riser E5 6a ** 24
44 All Day Breakfast
-
E2 5c  
45 Rowan Tree Corner D 8
46 Pee Pod VS 4c 2
47 Jump to the Beat E4 6b * 2
  Lower Tier
49 Slab Corner Combination S 4a 1
  TC 1.4 Eraser Slab
51 Smoked Mackerel f6C * 7
52 The Kipper Overhang f6B ** 13
53 Erasor Slab HVS 5b ** 181
54 Erasor Slab Right Hand Finish E3 6a 8
55 Erasor Slab Direct f6A+ 51
56 Eraser Slab Eliminate
-
HVS 5b 2
57 The Twister E3 6a 1
58 Final Departure
-
E6 6b 1
59 New Blade E7 6c *** 1
60 Three Degrees of Desperation
-
V10  
61 Run a Mock E2 5b  
62 Mantleshelf Slab HS 4b * 29
  Pedestal Wall
64 The Creaser V5  
65 Pedestal Wall E3 6a 9
66 Soot's Dyno V8  
67 Pedestal Rib HVS 4c * 40
68 Pedestal Arete
-
E1 5b 1
69 Pedestal Rib Direct f6A+ 22
70 Overhanging Wall HS 4b * 40
71 Overhanging Wall Direct Finish E4 6a 5
72 The Wong Way
-
E3 5c  
73 Awkward Crack S 4b 72
74 Cave Traverse HVS 5a * 11
75 Cave Direct VS 5a 3
76 Chalking The Forearm
-
V5  
77 Cave Wall VS 4b 12
78 Vrecka's Arete
-
HVS 5c  
79 Deep Chimney D 20
80 Little Greeny E2 5c * 11
81 Twin Cracks VD 9
82 Right Hand Crack VD 15
83 Left Hand Crack VD 11
84 Duke of Earl E4 6b 2
  The Indicator Area
86 Flake Crack VS 5a * 46
87 Digitale f6C 4
88 Lower Indicator MVS 4b 22
89 Indicator crack S 4a 67
90 Cosmic Baby E1 5b 2
91 Time To Go HVS 5a 23
92 Out of Time
-
V4  
93 Tiggerific D 10
94 Slab Corner VD * 119
95 Slab Corner YMC Version S 4a * 10
96 Short and Sweet
-
V4  
97 Block and Chimney VD 13
  Upper Tier
99 Hatchet Crack E3 5c  
100 The Scent of a Woman E4 5c  
101 Fishladder E1 5b * 26
102 The Kipper E4 6b ** 5
103 Edge of Darkness E5 6c *  
104 Problem Rib f5 ** 34
105 Jerry's Got a Problem f7A 2
106 White Wall E2 6b 12
107 Rubber Arete (White Wall) f6B 9
108 Grey Wall HS 5a * 51
109 Rubber Wall (Grey Wall) f4 3
  TC 2.2 Hand Full
111 Hand Full Arete f6A 10
112 Spicy f6A * 5
113 Spicy Wall
-
V2  
Climb name Grade
  TC 2.3 Sloping Beauty
115 Slap and Sloper
-
V3  
116 Crimp and Go
-
V4  
117 Crimp and Go SS
-
V7  
118 Hanging Groove f6C ** 47
119 Vanishing Point f8A  
120 Sloping Beauty f7B+ ** 62
121 Sutty's Dyno f7B  
122 Awkward Crack
-
V1 1
123 Wierdness
-
V3  
124 Just Exercise
-
V3  
125 Undercut Arete f6B 4
  TC 2.5 Trick Arete
127 Flight of the Bumble Bee
-
E4 6a  
128 Highball Wall
-
f4+ ** 16
129 Trick Arete f6B+ ** 100
130 Crimpy Wall f5 63
131 Funky Fun f4+ 3
  TC 2.6 Low Rider - Drop Down Traverse
133 Problem (d) Yorkshire Grit Vol2 f5+ 34
134 Problem (c) Yorkshire Grit Vol2
-
V3  
135 Pop Up Arete f6B 46
136 Problem (e) Yorkshire Grit Vol2 f6B 30
137 Drop-down Traverse
-
f6C ** 14
138 Problem (f) Yorkshire Grit Vol2
-
V3  
  TC 2.7 Cool Hand
140 Earl's Head f5 22
141 Cool Hand f6A+ 21
142 The Groove f5 15
  TC 2.8 Low Slab
144 Centre Court f6A+ 7
145 Right of Centre f4+ 7
146 Low Slab Arete
-
V4+  
147 Problem (a) Yorkshire Grit Vol2
-
V4+  
148 Tiny Arete f6B 2
  Butterfly Buttress
150 Left Arete f5 6
151 Right Wall
-
f6B 1
152 Right Arete
-
VB 1
153 Right Arete Left Hand
-
V3  
154 The Ribber E3 6a 1
155 The Ribber
-
f6C 1
156 Green Rib f6A+ * 8
157 Green Rib Right-hand f6C * 4
158 Slim Shady f8A * 2
159 Butterfly Crack VS 4c 6
160 Butterfly Wall E2 6b 1
161 Butterfly Wall (Bloc)
-
f7A * 8
162 Superfly f7B+ * 17
163 Superbug
-
V8+  
164 Shothole Ridge VS 4c * 24
165 Long Shot E1 5c 1
166 The Palmer
-
V3 1
167 Mantel Maniac E3 6b 1
168 Blade HVS 5b 4
169 Blade Left Hand
-
V1  
  Cave Crack
171 Little Demon MS 17
172 Paintstripper Gritter
-
E4 6b  
173 A Stretcher Case E1 5c 1
174 Cave Crack MS 5
175 Konrad Bartelski f6B  
176 The Way Home (Roger's Arete) f6B  
177 Long Way Home f6B  
178 The Undercut
-
V4  
179 Mow Wall f5+ 1
180 Necessary Evil
-
E5 6c  
181 YAB Chimney VD 3
182 Walkabout
-
HVS 5b  
  Little Buttress
184 Trifle HVS 5b 1
185 The Book of Unanswered Questions
-
E2 6a 1
186 Dirty Wall
-
HVS 5a  
187 Little Buttress D 7
188 Moonlight Saunter HVS 5b 2
  Main Buttress
190 Distant Early Warning E6 6c *  
191 Abstract Attittude E5 6b *  
192 Desert Island Arete E6 6c *** 3
193 Washed Up
-
E6 6b  
194 The Last Blasphemy
-
E7 6c  
195 Dougie Lampkin E6 6c **  
196 Viscount's Route HVS 5a ** 40
197 Valentine's Frog E1 5b 1
198 Viscount's Wall Variations
-
E2 6a  
199 Perch Wall HVS 5b ** 12
200 Flight E1 5b 1
201 Sanderson's Sorrow
-
E4 6b  
202 The Earl of Funk
-
E6 6c  
203 Matilda's Meander
-
E1 5c  
204 Liz's Wall E3 6b 1
205 Earl Crack VS 4c *** 136
206 Earl Buttress E2 5c *** 85
207 Captain Gap E2 6a  
208 Main Buttress Girdle VS 4c  
209 Evasion E1 5b * 2
210 Stall E3 6a * 3
211 Trite Rib E3 5c ** 6
212 Trite Rib Direct V6  
213 Alien's Stole My Bolt Kit E5 6b  
214 Chockstone Crack S 4a 9
215 The Widge Tingle
-
E2 5c  
  TC 3.4 Desert Island Arete
217 Desert Island Arete Sit Start (bloc)
-
f7B *** 44
218 Desert Island Arete (Bloc) f7A+ *** 56
219 Dave's Start f7B 4
220 Andy's Problem f7B 8
  Prow Buttress
222 Prow Chimney D 40
223 Prow Buttress HVD 3c * 121
224 Look Who's Stalking
-
E1 5c 2
225 Jock Jones VS 4c * 48
226 Tiger Wall VS 4c *** 227
Climb name Grade
227 Tiger Traverse 1 VS 4c * 44
228 Tiger Traverse 2 HVS 5a ** 21
229 The Prowler HVS 5a 5
230 Clean Kill
-
E1 5b 2
231 The Extinguisher D 23
232 Bring Your Own Bombs HVS 5b 3
233 Mousehole Slab VS 4b * 91
234 Rat Juggling E1 5a 34
235 Sharp Arete E1 6a * 27
236 Sweet Apples E4 6b * 1
237 Sour Grapes E3 6a ** 42
238 Boundary Wall HVS 5b 11
239 The Bolder Problem
-
E1 6a  
240 Wall Chimney D 3
241 Hand Traverse VD 4
242 Cut Throat E2 6b * 3
243 Ledge Climb HS 4a 5
244 Slab Solo VD 2
245 Solo Slab VD 18
  TC 3.5 Rat Au Van
247 Rat Au Vin f6A+ ** 50
  TC 3.6 Sour Grapes
249 Sour Grapes Traverse f6B * 8
  TC 3.7 Grape Nut
251 My Left Nut f7B+ 4
252 Grape Nut (With Bloc) f7B+ ** 72
253 Grape Nut (No block) f7B *** 33
254 Krafty f7C+ *  
255 Power Drop f6B ** 13
256 Nut job f6C * 1
  TC 3.8 Handy Andy's
258 Problem 8 f4+ 36
259 Eliminate Slab
-
f6A 21
260 Slab Wall
-
f4 46
261 Iggy's Groove
-
f5+ 53
262 Dyno Wall (Standing)
-
f5+ 39
263 Dyno Wall Sit Start f6C * 10
264 Handy Andy's (Leach's Wall) f7A+ ** 66
265 Handy Andy's Direct f7C+ ** 4
266 PaTina Turner V13  
267 Warm Up Arete f5 ** 79
268 Andy Brown's Wall f7B 48
  Tc 4.1 The Flakes
270 Dink Wall f6C+ ** 7
271 The Gimp f7A * 14
272 The Flakes
-
f7B ** 37
273 Lager Lager Lager (Dave's Groove) f7C *** 22
274 Lager Lager Lager (Dave's groove) sit start f7C+ *** 1
275 Twelve Bore f8A+  
  TC 4.2 The John Dunne Slap
277 Ron's Slab f6C ** 7
278 Ron's Arete
-
f6C ** 28
279 The John Dunne Slap f6B 6b * 114
  TC 4.3 Down Under
281 Blunt Arete f6A * 4
  Tc 4.4 Australia Roof
283 Australia Roof f6B ** 52
284 Australia Roof Arete f6C+ ** 13
285 Rippled Wall to Right
-
f5+ 6
  TC 5.1 Pinnacle Wall
287 Pinnacle Wall (The Nose) f4 8
288 Pinnacle Groove f4+ 14
289 Crimpy Traverse
-
V6 1
290 The Grooved Arete f6C * 1
291 Back In Black f7B  
292 Highway to Hell
-
V6 1
293 Thunderstruck f5+ 1
  TC 5.2 The Pinnacle
295 Pinnacle Slab f5 4
296 Dig Your Own Grave f6B+ * 1
  TC 5.3 Underworld
298 Ape Index
-
V8  
299 Underworld f7C+ *** 8
300 Underworld Sans Block
-
f7C+ 1
301 Underpants f7B+ ** 20
  TC 5.4 Close Range - Bridge Boulder
303 Rib Tickler
-
f4 24
304 Barn Door Arete
-
f4+ 14
305 Barn Door Arete SDS
-
f6A 10
306 Boulder 24, P2
-
VB 3c 9
307 Easy Groove f6B * 24
308 Weight Gain f6B+ 5
309 Feel the Burn
-
f7C+ **  
310 Close Range
-
f7C+ 1
  Urban Rabbit
312 Hammer Drop f7A 5
313 Pump up the Poodle
-
V5 1
314 Urban Rabbit
-
V4+  
  Solitary Block
316 Pocket Edge
-
f5+ 6
317 Front Face
-
f5 8
318 Flakey Wall f4 5
  TC 5.5 Hanging Arete
320 Hanging Arete f6B+ 18
321 Hanging Arete SS
-
V8 1
322 The Scoop (Boulder 26, P4)
-
f4+ 20
  TC 6.1 Big Block
324 Phantom f6A 10
325 Ghost f5 11
326 Boulder 29 P8 (Earl Crag)
-
V4 6a 5
  TC 6.2 Isolated Pinnacle
328 Pinnacle Rib f6A 4
329 Pinnacle Edge f6C  
330 Colt 45 f7C *** 2
  Unsorted Climbs
332 Funky Fun Face Out f6A+ * 1
333 The Groove Sit f5+ 1
334 Pocket Right f4 1
335 Slab No. 5 f4 1
336 Diddymen f5+ 1
337 Second Diddy f5+ 1
338 Lofty Flakes VS 4c 1

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