Climbs 310
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 300m a.s.l
Faces NW

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Earl in an evening © Adam Ellwood

Crag features

Often overlooked, Earl Crag provides a wealth of mini classics and excellent bouldering. Cold, bleak and windy in the winter, it provides a shady spot on blistering summer days, and a light breeze will deter even the most persistent midges.
The edge is about 1km long and split into three main sections, with a wealth of bouldering at each end. Routes of worth are Earl Crack (VS), Erasor Slab (HVS), Fishladder (E1 5b) and Earl Buttress (E2 5c). Harder climbs include The Kipper (E4 6a) and the immaculate Desert Island Arete (E6 6c). If climbing away from the crowds is on the books, this is the Yorkshire crag for you. [Jon Dittman]

Approach notes

Parking for the crag is either under the pepperpot-shaped tower, or in a small car park about 0.5 km south of the pinnacle. Footpaths lead to the crag.
The crag is on private land, but climbing is tolerated. Dogs should be kept on a lead at all times and large groups should be discouraged. [Jon Dittman]

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Guidebooks

Northern England

The book is a selected route and crag guide although it still manages to pack over 2350 routes between its covers, spread across 44 crags. The main focus is on routes of all grades from Moderate to E9, but the best bouldering is also described.
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Quarried Bay
2 After Dark f7C+  
3 In Stitches f7B  
4 Sicca
-
V6  
5 Riddance E4 6a * 1
6 The Underhand Man
-
E5 6c  
7 Desperate for Fame
-
E3 5c  
8 No Holes Barred
-
E2 5c  
9 No Holds Barred
-
E3 6a  
10 Thuggery
-
E2 5c  
11 Sootbags
-
V6  
12 Sobieski's Winged Hussars
-
E4 6a  
13 The Offwidth
-
E2 5b 2
  TC 1.1 First Boulder
15 Small Arete Left
-
f5+ 12
16 Small Arete Right
-
f5+ 9
  Scoops Boulder
18 Nose
-
f5+ 1
19 Scoops Left
-
f5+ 5
20 Scoops Right
-
f5+ 5
  TC 1.2 Hanging Wall - Tilted Block
22 Cirque du Freak
-
f8A+  
23 Hanging Wall
-
f7A 9
24 Hanging wall Sit start f7B 2
25 Allez Retour
-
f6B 3
  TC 1.3 Problem Wall - Bad Seed
27 Bad Seed
-
f6B 4
28 Problem Wall
-
f6C 2
  Pitch At Will
30 Pitch at Will f5 1
31 Frustration
-
f6B  
32 Dean's Arete f7A  
  Mind Bomb Area
34 Full Tilt f7B *  
35 Old Timothy VS 4b 4
36 Zippergate
-
E2 5b  
37 Pitch at Will E1 5b * 5
38 Tick-Tock Man VS 4c 3
39 The Pendulum Traverse f5 2
40 The Baron of Boing
-
E8 6c 1
41 Mind Bomb E7 6c * 1
42 French Duke
-
E9 7a  
43 Early Riser E5 6a ** 25
44 All Day Breakfast
-
E2 5c  
45 Rowan Tree Corner D 8
46 Pee Pod VS 4c 2
47 Jump to the Beat E4 6b * 2
  Lower Tier
49 Slab Corner Combination S 4a 1
50 Flakes sit start f7C *** 1
  TC 1.4 Eraser Slab
52 Smoked Mackerel f6C * 7
53 The Kipper Overhang f6B ** 13
54 Erasor Slab HVS 5b ** 192
55 Erasor Slab Right Hand Finish E3 6a 8
56 Erasor Slab Direct f6A+ 52
57 Eraser Slab Eliminate
-
HVS 5b 2
58 The Twister E3 6a 1
59 Final Departure
-
E6 6b 1
60 New Blade E7 6c *** 1
61 Three Degrees of Desperation
-
V10  
62 Run a Mock E2 5b  
63 Mantleshelf Slab HS 4b * 31
  Pedestal Wall
65 The Creaser V5  
66 Pedestal Wall E3 6a 10
67 Soot's Dyno V8  
68 Pedestal Rib HVS 4c * 42
69 Pedestal Arete
-
E1 5b 1
70 Pedestal Rib Direct f6A+ 22
71 Overhanging Wall HS 4b * 40
72 Overhanging Wall Direct Finish E4 6a 5
73 The Wong Way
-
E3 5c  
74 Awkward Crack S 4b 74
75 Cave Traverse HVS 5a * 11
76 Cave Direct VS 5a 3
77 Chalking The Forearm
-
V5  
78 Cave Wall VS 4b 12
79 Vrecka's Arete
-
HVS 5c  
80 Deep Chimney D 20
81 Little Greeny E2 5c * 11
82 Twin Cracks VD 11
83 Right Hand Crack VD 16
84 Left Hand Crack VD 11
85 Duke of Earl E4 6b 4
  The Indicator Area
87 Flake Crack VS 5a * 49
88 Digitale f6C 5
89 Lower Indicator MVS 4b 22
90 Indicator crack S 4a 71
91 Cosmic Baby E1 5b 2
92 Time To Go HVS 5a 23
93 Out of Time
-
V4 1
94 Tiggerific D 16
95 Slab Corner VD * 126
96 Slab Corner YMC Version S 4a * 13
97 Short and Sweet
-
V4  
98 Block and Chimney VD 13
99 Lower Indicator (to ledge) f3+ * 1
100 Short and Sweet (stand)
-
f5+ 1
101 Sweeter f5 1
  Upper Tier
103 Hatchet Crack E3 5c  
104 The Scent of a Woman E4 5c  
105 Fishladder E1 5b * 28
106 The Kipper E4 6b ** 7
107 Edge of Darkness E5 6c * 1
108 Problem Rib f5 ** 37
109 Jerry's Got a Problem f7A 2
110 White Wall E2 6b 13
111 Rubber Arete (White Wall) f6B 9
112 Grey Wall HS 5a * 53
113 Rubber Wall (Grey Wall) f4 3
  TC 2.2 Hand Full
115 Hand Full Arete f6A 12
116 Spicy f6A * 5
117 Spicy Wall
-
V2 1
Climb name Grade
  TC 2.3 Sloping Beauty
119 Slap and Sloper
-
V3 1
120 Crimp and Go
-
V4  
121 Crimp and Go SS
-
V7  
122 Hanging Groove f6C ** 48
123 Vanishing Point f8A  
124 Sloping Beauty f7B+ ** 66
125 Sutty's Dyno f7B  
126 Awkward Crack
-
V1 1
127 Wierdness
-
V3  
128 Just Exercise
-
V3 1
129 Undercut Arete f6B 4
  TC 2.5 Trick Arete
131 Flight of the Bumble Bee
-
E4 6a  
132 Highball Wall
-
f4+ ** 19
133 Trick Arete f6B+ ** 107
134 Crimpy Wall f5 71
135 Funky Fun f4+ 5
  TC 2.6 Low Rider - Drop Down Traverse
137 Problem (d) Yorkshire Grit Vol2 f5+ 39
138 Problem (c) Yorkshire Grit Vol2
-
V3 9
139 Pop Up Arete f6B 54
140 Problem (e) Yorkshire Grit Vol2 f6B 35
141 Drop-down Traverse
-
f6C ** 16
142 Problem (f) Yorkshire Grit Vol2
-
V3  
  TC 2.7 Cool Hand
144 Earl's Head f5 25
145 Cool Hand f6A+ 25
146 The Groove f5 20
  TC 2.8 Low Slab
148 Centre Court f6A+ 7
149 Right of Centre f4+ 7
150 Low Slab Arete
-
V4+  
151 Problem (a) Yorkshire Grit Vol2
-
V4+  
152 Tiny Arete f6B 2
  Butterfly Buttress
154 Left Arete f5 7
155 Right Wall
-
f6B 1
156 Right Arete
-
VB 1
157 Right Arete Left Hand
-
V3  
158 The Ribber E3 6a 1
159 The Ribber
-
f6C 1
160 Green Rib f6A+ * 8
161 Green Rib Right-hand f6C * 4
162 Slim Shady f8A * 2
163 Butterfly Crack VS 4c 6
164 Butterfly Wall E2 6b 1
165 Butterfly Wall (Bloc)
-
f7A * 8
166 Superfly f7B+ * 18
167 Superbug
-
V8+  
168 Shothole Ridge VS 4c * 26
169 Long Shot E1 5c 1
170 The Palmer
-
V3 1
171 Mantel Maniac E3 6b 1
172 Blade HVS 5b 4
173 Blade Left Hand
-
V1  
  Cave Crack
175 Little Demon MS 18
176 Paintstripper Gritter
-
E4 6b  
177 A Stretcher Case E1 5c 1
178 Cave Crack MS 5
179 Konrad Bartelski f6B  
180 The Way Home (Roger's Arete) f6B  
181 Long Way Home f6B  
182 The Undercut
-
V4  
183 Mow Wall f5+ 1
184 Necessary Evil
-
E5 6c  
185 YAB Chimney VD 4
186 Walkabout
-
HVS 5b  
  Little Buttress
188 Trifle HVS 5b 1
189 The Book of Unanswered Questions
-
E2 6a 1
190 Dirty Wall
-
HVS 5a  
191 Little Buttress D 8
192 Moonlight Saunter HVS 5b 2
  Main Buttress
194 Distant Early Warning E6 6c *  
195 Abstract Attittude E5 6b *  
196 Desert Island Arete E6 6c *** 3
197 Washed Up
-
E6 6b  
198 The Last Blasphemy
-
E7 6c  
199 Dougie Lampkin E6 6c **  
200 Viscount's Route HVS 5a ** 40
201 Valentine's Frog E1 5b 1
202 Viscount's Wall Variations
-
E2 6a  
203 Perch Wall HVS 5b ** 12
204 Flight E1 5b 1
205 Sanderson's Sorrow
-
E4 6b  
206 The Earl of Funk
-
E6 6c  
207 Matilda's Meander
-
E1 5c  
208 Liz's Wall E3 6b 1
209 Earl Crack VS 4c *** 152
210 Earl Buttress E2 5c *** 92
211 Captain Gap E2 6a  
212 Main Buttress Girdle VS 4c  
213 Evasion E1 5b * 2
214 Stall E3 6a * 3
215 Trite Rib E3 5c ** 6
216 Trite Rib Direct V6  
217 Alien's Stole My Bolt Kit E5 6b  
218 Chockstone Crack S 4a 10
219 The Widge Tingle
-
E2 5c  
  TC 3.4 Desert Island Arete
221 Desert Island Arete Sit Start (bloc)
-
f7B *** 45
222 Desert Island Arete (Bloc) f7A+ *** 59
223 Dave's Start f7B 5
224 Andy's Problem f7B 11
  Prow Buttress
226 Prow Chimney D 44
227 Prow Buttress HVD 3c * 132
228 Look Who's Stalking
-
E1 5c 2
229 Jock Jones VS 4c * 51
230 Tiger Wall VS 4c *** 246
231 Tiger Traverse 1 VS 4c * 53
232 Tiger Traverse 2 HVS 5a ** 24
233 The Prowler HVS 5a 7
234 Clean Kill
-
E1 5b 2
235 The Extinguisher D 26
Climb name Grade
236 Bring Your Own Bombs HVS 5b 3
237 Mousehole Slab VS 4b * 98
238 Rat Juggling E1 5a 34
239 Sharp Arete E1 6a * 27
240 Sweet Apples E4 6b * 1
241 Sour Grapes E3 6a ** 44
242 Boundary Wall HVS 5b 11
243 The Bolder Problem
-
E1 6a  
244 Wall Chimney D 3
245 Hand Traverse VD 5
246 Cut Throat E2 6b * 4
247 Ledge Climb HS 4a 6
248 Slab Solo VD 2
249 Solo Slab VD 19
  TC 3.5 Rat Au Van
251 Rat Au Vin f6A+ ** 53
252 Ratus norvegicus f6A 3
  TC 3.6 Sour Grapes
254 Sour Grapes Traverse f6B * 8
  TC 3.7 Grape Nut
256 My Left Nut f7B+ 5
257 Grape Nut (With Bloc) f7B+ ** 74
258 Grape Nut (No block) f7B *** 35
259 Krafty f7C+ * 1
260 Power Drop f6B ** 15
261 Nut job f6C * 1
  TC 3.8 Handy Andy's
263 Problem 8 f4+ 40
264 Eliminate Slab
-
f6A 22
265 Slab Wall
-
f4 53
266 Iggy's Groove
-
f5+ 56
267 Dyno Wall (Standing)
-
f5+ 46
268 Dyno Wall Sit Start f6C * 12
269 Handy Andy's (Leach's Wall) f7A+ ** 68
270 Handy Andy's Direct f7C+ ** 4
271 PaTina Turner V13  
272 Warm Up Arete f5 ** 82
273 Andy Brown's Wall f7B 52
274 Perfect Pinch f7C ** 2
  Tc 4.1 The Flakes
276 Dink Wall f6C+ ** 10
277 The Gimp f7A * 14
278 The Flakes
-
f7B ** 42
279 Lager Lager Lager (Dave's Groove) f7C *** 24
280 Lager Lager Lager (Dave's groove) sit start f7C+ *** 1
281 Twelve Bore f8A+  
  TC 4.2 The John Dunne Slap
283 Ron's Slab f6C ** 9
284 Ron's Arete
-
f6C ** 28
285 The John Dunne Slap f6B 6b * 126
  TC 4.3 Down Under
287 Blunt Arete f6A * 4
  Tc 4.4 Australia Roof
289 Australia Roof f6B ** 61
290 Australia Roof Arete f6C+ ** 13
291 Rippled Wall to Right
-
f5+ 7
292 The Outback f7B ** 1
293 The Outback Sit f7B+  
  TC 5.1 Pinnacle Wall
295 Pinnacle Wall (The Nose) f4 8
296 Pinnacle Groove f4+ 15
297 Crimpy Traverse
-
V6 2
298 The Grooved Arete f6C * 1
299 Back In Black f7B  
300 Highway to Hell
-
V6 1
301 Thunderstruck f5+ 2
  TC 5.2 The Pinnacle
303 Pinnacle Slab f5 4
304 Dig Your Own Grave f6B+ * 1
  TC 5.3 Underworld
306 Ape Index
-
V8  
307 Underworld f7C+ *** 10
308 Underworld Sans Block
-
f7C+ 1
309 Underpants f7B+ ** 20
  TC 5.4 Close Range - Bridge Boulder
311 Rib Tickler
-
f4 29
312 Barn Door Arete
-
f4+ 23
313 Barn Door Arete SDS
-
f6A 18
314 Boulder 24, P2
-
VB 3c 9
315 Easy Groove f6B * 29
316 Weight Gain f6B+ 5
317 Feel the Burn
-
f7C+ **  
318 Close Range
-
f7C+ 1
  Urban Rabbit
320 Hammer Drop f7A 5
321 Pump up the Poodle
-
V5 1
322 Urban Rabbit
-
V4+  
  Solitary Block
324 Pocket Edge
-
f5+ 13
325 Front Face
-
f5 12
326 Flakey Wall f4 11
327 Right edge f6A 5
  TC 5.5 Hanging Arete
329 Hanging Arete f6B+ 18
330 Hanging Arete SS
-
V8 1
331 The Scoop (Boulder 26, P4)
-
f4+ 22
332 Thin Crest f5+ * 1
333 Featured Arete f5 1
  TC 6.1 Big Block
335 Phantom f6A 11
336 Ghost f5 12
337 Boulder 29 P8 (Earl Crag)
-
V4 6a 6
  TC 6.2 Isolated Pinnacle
339 Pinnacle Rib f6A 4
340 Pinnacle Edge f6C  
341 Colt 45 f7C *** 8
  Unsorted Climbs
343 Funky Fun Face Out f6A+ * 1
344 The Groove Sit f5+ 1
345 Pocket Right f4 1
346 Slab No. 5 f4 1
347 Diddymen f5+ 1
348 Second Diddy f5+ 1
349 Lofty Flakes VS 4c 1
350 Hornli
-
f6A+ 2
351 Zmutte
-
f6B  
352 North face f6C  

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