UKC

Climbs 251
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 300m a.s.l
Faces NW

Earl in an evening © Adam Ellwood

Crag features

Often overlooked, Earl Crag provides a wealth of mini classics and excellent bouldering. Cold, bleak and windy in the winter, it provides a shady spot on blistering summer days, and a light breeze will deter even the most persistent midges.
The edge is about 1km long and split into three main sections, with a wealth of bouldering at each end. Routes of worth are Earl Crack (VS), Erasor Slab (HVS), Fishladder (E1 5b) and Earl Buttress (E2 5c). Harder climbs include The Kipper (E4 6a) and the immaculate Desert Island Arete (E6 6c). If climbing away from the crowds is on the books, this is the Yorkshire crag for you. [Jon Dittman]

Approach notes

Parking for the crag is either under the pepperpot-shaped tower, or in a small car park about 0.5 km south of the pinnacle. Footpaths lead to the crag.
The crag is on private land, but climbing is tolerated. Dogs should be kept on a lead at all times and large groups should be discouraged. [Jon Dittman]

Guidebooks

Northern England

The book is a selected route and crag guide although it still manages to pack over 2350 routes between its covers, spread across 44 crags. The main focus is on routes of all grades from Moderate to E9, but the best bouldering is also described.
More info
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Full Tilt f7B *  
  Quarried Bay
3 Sicca E3 6b  
4 In Stitches
-
E4 6c  
5 Riddance E4 6a *  
6 The Underhand Man
-
E5 6c  
7 Desperate for Fame
-
E3 5c  
8 No Holes Barred
-
E2 5c  
9 No Holds Barred
-
E3 6a  
10 Thuggery
-
E2 5c  
11 Sobieski's Winged Hussars
-
E4 6a  
12 The Offwidth
-
E2 5b 2
  The Quarry Bouldering
14 After Dark f7C+  
15 In Stitches f7B  
  TC 1.1 First Boulder
17 Small Arete Left
-
f5+ 6
18 Small Arete Right
-
f5+ 3
  Scoops Boulder
20 Nose
-
f5+ 1
21 Scoops Left
-
f5+ 3
22 Scoops Right
-
f5+ 2
  TC 1.2 Hanging Wall - Tilted Block
24 Cirque du Freak
-
f8A+  
25 Hanging Wall
-
f7A 3
26 Allez Retour
-
f6B 3
  TC 1.3 Problem Wall - Bad Seed
28 Bad Seed
-
f6B  
29 Problem Wall
-
f6C 1
  Pitch At Will
31 Pitch at Will f5  
32 Frustration
-
f6B  
33 Dean's Arete
-
f7A  
34 Greg's Arete f7A  
  Mind Bomb Area
36 Old Timothy VS 4b 4
37 Zippergate
-
E2 5b  
38 Pitch at Will E1 5b * 5
39 Tick-Tock Man VS 4c 3
40 The Pendulum Traverse f5 1
41 The Baron of Boing
-
E8 6c  
42 Mind Bomb E7 6c *  
43 French Duke
-
E9 7a  
44 Early Riser E5 6a ** 22
45 All Day Breakfast
-
E2 5c  
46 Rowan Tree Corner D 8
47 Pee Pod VS 4c 2
48 Jump to the Beat E4 6b * 2
  Lower Tier
  TC 1.4 Eraser Slab
51 Smoked Mackerel f6C * 5
52 The Kipper Overhang f6B ** 11
53 Erasor Slab HVS 5b ** 166
54 Erasor Slab Right Hand Finish E3 6a 7
55 Erasor Slab Direct f6A+ 50
56 Eraser Slab Eliminate
-
HVS 5b 1
57 The Twister E3 6a 1
58 Final Departure
-
E6 6b 1
59 New Blade E7 6c *** 1
60 Run a Mock E2 5b  
61 Mantleshelf Slab HS 4b * 27
  Pedestal Wall
63 Pedestal Wall E3 6a 9
64 Pedestal Rib HVS 4c * 42
65 Pedestal Rib Direct f6A+ 23
66 Overhanging Wall HS 4b * 38
67 Overhanging Wall Direct Finish E4 6a 5
68 The Wong Way
-
E3 5c  
69 Awkward Crack S 4b 68
70 Cave Traverse HVS 5a * 11
71 Cave Direct VS 5a 3
72 Cave Wall VS 4b 11
73 Vrecka's Arete
-
HVS 5c  
74 Deep Chimney D 16
75 Little Greeny E2 5c * 11
76 Twin Cracks VD 8
77 Right Hand Crack VD 15
78 Left Hand Crack VD 9
79 Duke of Earl E4 6b 2
  TC 1.5 Green Bits
  The Indicator Area
82 Flake Crack VS 5a * 41
83 Indicator crack S 4a 63
84 Digitale f6C 1
85 Lower Indicator MVS 4b 22
86 Cosmic Baby E1 5b 2
87 Time To Go HVS 5a 23
88 Flight of the Bumble Bee
-
E4 6a  
89 Slab Corner VD * 113
90 Slab Corner YMC Version S 4a * 8
91 Tiggerific D 7
92 Block and Chimney VD 12
  Upper Tier
94 Hatchet Crack E3 5c  
95 The Scent of a Woman E4 5c  
96 Fishladder E1 5b * 27
97 The Kipper E4 6b ** 5
98 Edge of Darkness E5 6c *  
99 Problem Rib f5 ** 30
100 White Wall E2 6b 11
Climb name Grade
101 Grey Wall HS 5a * 51
  TC 1.6 The Prow
  *** Sloping Beauty Bouldering ***
  TC 2.1 Edge of Darkness
105 Jerry's Got a Problem f7A 2
106 Rubber Arete (White Wall) f6B 8
107 Rubber Wall (Grey Wall) f4 3
  TC 2.2 Hand Full
109 Hand Full Arete f6A 10
110 Spicy f6A * 5
  TC 2.3 Sloping Beauty
112 Hanging Groove f6C ** 38
113 Vanishing Point f8A  
114 Sloping Beauty f7B+ ** 50
115 Sutty's Dyno f7B  
  TC 2.4 Undercut Arete
117 Undercut Arete f6B 3
  TC 2.5 Trick Arete
119 Highball Wall
-
f4+ ** 12
120 Trick Arete f6B+ ** 80
121 Crimpy Wall f5 47
  TC 2.6 Low Rider - Drop Down Traverse
123 Drop-down Traverse
-
f6C ** 13
124 Drop Down Traverse Late Start Early Finish f5+ 28
125 Low Rider - Problem 3 f6B 22
126 Pop Up Arete f6B 37
  TC 2.7 Cool Hand
128 Cool Hand Wall f5 17
129 Cool Hand f6A+ 13
130 The Groove f5 12
  TC 2.8 Low Slab
132 Centre Court f6A+ 5
133 Right of Centre f4+ 6
134 Tiny Arete f6B 1
  Boundary Wall
136 The Ribber E3 6a 1
137 Green Rib f6A+ * 6
138 Green Rib Right-hand f6C * 4
139 Butterfly Crack VS 4c 6
140 Butterfly Wall E2 6b 1
141 Shothole Ridge VS 4c * 23
142 Long Shot E1 5c 1
143 Mantel Maniac E3 6b  
144 Blade HVS 5b 3
145 Little Demon MS 16
146 Paintstripper Gritter
-
E4 6b  
147 A Stretcher Case E1 5c 1
148 Cave Crack MS 5
149 Necessary Evil
-
E5 6c  
150 YAB Chimney VD 3
151 Walkabout
-
HVS 5b  
  TC 3.1 Simple Arete
153 Simple Arete (Left Arete) f5 5
154 Simple Slab (Right Wall)
-
f6B  
155 The Ribber
-
f6C 1
  TC 3.2 Butterfly Wall
157 Slim Shady f8A * 2
158 Butterfly Wall (Bloc)
-
f7A * 8
159 Superfly f7B+ * 16
  Little Buttress
161 Trifle HVS 5b 1
162 The Book of Unanswered Questions
-
E2 6a  
163 Dirty Wall
-
HVS 5a  
164 Little Buttress D 7
165 Moonlight Saunter HVS 5b 2
  Main Buttress
167 Distant Early Warning E6 6c *  
168 Abstract Attittude E5 6b *  
169 Desert Island Arete E6 6c *** 2
170 Washed Up
-
E6 6b  
171 The Last Blasphemy
-
E7 6c  
172 Dougie Lampkin E6 6c **  
173 Viscount's Route HVS 5a ** 42
174 Valentine's Frog E1 5b 1
175 Viscount's Wall Variations
-
E2 6a  
176 Perch Wall HVS 5b ** 9
177 Flight E1 5b 1
178 Sanderson's Sorrow
-
E4 6b  
179 The Earl of Funk
-
E6 6c  
180 Matilda's Meander
-
E1 5c  
181 Liz's Wall E3 6b 1
182 Earl Crack VS 4c *** 144
183 Earl Buttress E2 5c *** 85
184 Captain Gap E2 6a  
185 Main Buttress Girdle VS 4c  
186 Evasion E1 5b * 2
187 Stall E3 6a * 3
188 Trite Rib E3 5c ** 5
189 Alien's Stole My Bolt Kit E5 6b  
190 Chockstone Crack S 4a 8
191 The Widge Tingle
-
E2 5c  
  TC 3.3 Konrad Bartelski
193 Konrad Bartelski f6B  
194 The Way Home (Roger's Arete) f6B  
195 Long Way Home f6B  
196 Mow Wall f5+ 1
  TC 3.4 Desert Island Arete
198 Desert Island Arete Sit Start (bloc)
-
f7B *** 35
199 Desert Island Arete (Bloc) f7A+ *** 45
200 Dave's Start f7B 4
Climb name Grade
201 Andy's Problem f7B 3
  Prow Buttress
203 Prow Chimney D 35
204 Prow Buttress HVD 3c * 113
205 Look Who's Stalking
-
E1 5c 2
206 Jock Jones VS 4c * 47
207 Tiger Wall VS 4c *** 232
208 Tiger Traverse 1 VS 4c * 39
209 Tiger Traverse 2 HVS 5a ** 18
210 The Prowler HVS 5a 5
211 Clean Kill
-
E1 5b 2
212 The Extinguisher D 21
213 Bring Your Own Bombs HVS 5b 3
214 Mousehole Slab VS 4b * 86
215 Rat Juggling E1 5a 33
216 Sharp Arete E1 6a * 24
217 Sweet Apples E4 6b * 1
218 Sour Grapes E3 6a ** 42
219 Boundary Wall HVS 5b 9
220 The Bolder Problem
-
E1 6a  
221 Wall Chimney D 3
222 Hand Traverse VD 4
223 Cut Throat E2 6b * 3
224 Ledge Climb HS 4a 5
225 Slab Solo VD 2
226 Solo Slab VD 18
  TC 3.5 Rat Au Van
228 Rat Au Vin f6A+ ** 46
  TC 3.6 Sour Grapes
230 Sour Grapes Traverse f6B * 7
  TC 3.7 Grape Nut
232 Grape Nut (With Bloc) f7B+ ** 65
233 Grape Nut (No block) f7B *** 23
234 Krafty f7C+ *  
235 Power Drop f6B ** 11
  TC 3.8 Handy Andy's
237 Problem 8 f4+ 26
238 Eliminate Slab
-
f6A 18
239 Slab Wall
-
f4 35
240 Iggy's Groove
-
f5+ 42
241 Dyno Wall (Standing)
-
f5+ 33
242 Dyno Wall Sit Start f6C * 7
243 Handy Andy's (Leach's Wall) f7A+ ** 59
244 Handy Andy's Direct f7C+ ** 4
245 Warm Up Arete f5 ** 62
246 Andy Brown's Wall f7B 42
  Tc 4.1 The Flakes
248 Dink Wall f6C+ ** 5
249 The Gimp f7A * 11
250 The Flakes
-
f7B ** 28
251 Lager Lager Lager (Dave's Groove) f7C *** 15
252 Lager Lager Lager (Dave's groove) sit start f7C+ *** 1
253 Twelve Bore f8A+  
  TC 4.2 The John Dunne Slap
255 Ron's Slab f6C ** 6
256 Ron's Arete
-
f6C ** 25
257 The John Dunne Slap f6B 6b * 100
  TC 4.3 Down Under
259 Blunt Arete f6A * 3
  Tc 4.4 Australia Roof
261 Australia Roof f6B ** 47
262 Australia Roof Arete f6C+ ** 12
263 Rippled Wall to Right
-
f5+ 5
  TC 5.1 Pinnacle Wall
265 Pinnacle Wall (The Nose) f4 6
266 Pinnacle Groove f4+ 12
267 The Grooved Arete f6C * 1
268 Back In Black f7B  
269 Thunderstruck f5+ 1
  TC 5.2 The Pinnacle
271 Pinnacle Slab f5 4
272 Dig Your Own Grave f6B+ * 1
  TC 5.3 Underworld
274 Underworld f7C+ *** 6
275 Underworld Sans Block
-
f7C+ 1
276 Underpants f7B+ ** 19
  TC 5.4 Close Range - Bridge Boulder
278 Rib Tickler
-
f4 18
279 Barn Door Arete
-
f4+ 9
280 Barn Door Arete SDS
-
f6A 8
281 Boulder 24, P2
-
VB 3c 8
282 Easy Groove f6B * 21
283 Weight Gain f6B+ 3
284 Feel the Burn
-
f7C+ **  
  Solitary Block
286 Pocket Edge
-
f5+ 1
287 Front Face
-
f5 5
288 Flakey Wall f4 1
  TC 5.5 Hanging Arete
290 Hanging Arete f6B+ 16
291 The Scoop (Boulder 26, P4)
-
f4+ 15
  TC 6.1 Big Block
293 Phantom f6A 7
294 Ghost f5 9
295 Boulder 29 P8 (Earl Crag)
-
V4 6a 5
  TC 6.2 Isolated Pinnacle
297 Pinnacle Rib f6A 3
298 Pinnacle Edge f6C  
299 Colt 45 f7C *** 2
  Unsorted Climbs

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