Climbs 249
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 300m a.s.l
Faces NW

Earl in an evening © Adam Ellwood

Crag features

Often overlooked, Earl Crag provides a wealth of mini classics and excellent bouldering. Cold, bleak and windy in the winter, it provides a shady spot on blistering summer days, and a light breeze will deter even the most persistent midges.
The edge is about 1km long and split into three main sections, with a wealth of bouldering at each end. Routes of worth are Earl Crack (VS), Erasor Slab (HVS), Fishladder (E1 5b) and Earl Buttress (E2 5c). Harder climbs include The Kipper (E4 6a) and the immaculate Desert Island Arete (E6 6c). If climbing away from the crowds is on the books, this is the Yorkshire crag for you. [Jon Dittman]

Approach notes

Parking for the crag is either under the pepperpot-shaped tower, or in a small car park about 0.5 km south of the pinnacle. Footpaths lead to the crag.
The crag is on private land, but climbing is tolerated. Dogs should be kept on a lead at all times and large groups should be discouraged. [Jon Dittman]

Guidebooks

Northern England

The book is a selected route and crag guide although it still manages to pack over 2350 routes between its covers, spread across 44 crags. The main focus is on routes of all grades from Moderate to E9, but the best bouldering is also described.
More info
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Full Tilt f7B *  
  Quarried Bay
3 Sicca E3 6b  
4 In Stitches
-
E4 6c  
5 Riddance E4 6a *  
6 The Underhand Man
-
E5 6c  
7 Desperate for Fame
-
E3 5c  
8 No Holes Barred
-
E2 5c  
9 No Holds Barred
-
E3 6a  
10 Thuggery
-
E2 5c  
11 Sobieski's Winged Hussars
-
E4 6a  
12 The Offwidth
-
E2 5b 2
  The Quarry Bouldering
14 After Dark f7C+  
15 In Stitches f7B  
  TC 1.1 First Boulder
17 Small Arete Left
-
f5+ 4
18 Small Arete Right
-
f5+ 2
  Scoops Boulder
20 Nose
-
f5+ 1
21 Scoops Left
-
f5+ 2
22 Scoops Right
-
f5+ 1
  TC 1.2 Hanging Wall - Tilted Block
24 Cirque du Freak
-
f8A+  
25 Hanging Wall
-
f7A  
26 Allez Retour
-
f6B 3
  TC 1.3 Problem Wall - Bad Seed
28 Bad Seed
-
f6B  
29 Problem Wall
-
f6C 1
  Pitch At Will
31 Pitch at Will f5  
32 Frustration
-
f6B  
33 Dean's Arete
-
f7A  
34 Greg's Arete f7A  
  Mind Bomb Area
36 Old Timothy VS 4b 4
37 Zippergate
-
E2 5b  
38 Pitch at Will E1 5b * 5
39 Tick-Tock Man VS 4c 3
40 The Pendulum Traverse f5 1
41 The Baron of Boing
-
E8 6c  
42 Mind Bomb E7 6c *  
43 French Duke
-
E9 7a  
44 Early Riser E5 6a ** 22
45 All Day Breakfast
-
E2 5c  
46 Rowan Tree Corner D 8
47 Pee Pod VS 4c 2
48 Jump to the Beat E4 6b * 2
  Lower Tier
  TC 1.4 Eraser Slab
51 Smoked Mackerel f6C * 5
52 The Kipper Overhang f6B ** 11
53 Erasor Slab HVS 5b ** 174
54 Erasor Slab Right Hand Finish E3 6a 7
55 Erasor Slab Direct f6A+ 49
56 Eraser Slab Eliminate
-
HVS 5b 1
57 The Twister E3 6a 1
58 Final Departure
-
E6 6b 1
59 New Blade E7 6c *** 1
60 Run a Mock E2 5b  
61 Mantleshelf Slab HS 4b * 27
  Pedestal Wall
63 Pedestal Wall E3 6a 9
64 Pedestal Rib HVS 4c * 39
65 Pedestal Rib Direct f6A+ 22
66 Overhanging Wall HS 4b * 38
67 Overhanging Wall Direct Finish E4 6a 5
68 The Wong Way
-
E3 5c  
69 Awkward Crack S 4b 68
70 Cave Traverse HVS 5a * 11
71 Cave Direct VS 5a 3
72 Cave Wall VS 4b 11
73 Vrecka's Arete
-
HVS 5c  
74 Deep Chimney D 16
75 Little Greeny E2 5c * 11
76 Twin Cracks VD 6
77 Right Hand Crack VD 15
78 Left Hand Crack VD 9
79 Duke of Earl E4 6b 2
  TC 1.5 Green Bits
  The Indicator Area
82 Flake Crack VS 5a * 39
83 Indicator crack S 4a 62
84 Digitale f6C 1
85 Lower Indicator MVS 4b 22
86 Cosmic Baby E1 5b 2
87 Time To Go HVS 5a 23
88 Flight of the Bumble Bee
-
E4 6a  
89 Slab Corner VD * 115
90 Slab Corner YMC Version S 4a * 8
91 Tiggerific D 7
92 Block and Chimney VD 12
  Upper Tier
94 Hatchet Crack E3 5c  
95 The Scent of a Woman E4 5c  
96 Fishladder E1 5b * 25
97 The Kipper E4 6b ** 5
98 Edge of Darkness E5 6c *  
99 Problem Rib f5 ** 30
100 White Wall E2 6b 11
101 Grey Wall HS 5a * 51
  TC 1.6 The Prow
  *** Sloping Beauty Bouldering ***
  TC 2.1 Edge of Darkness
105 Jerry's Got a Problem f7A 2
106 Rubber Arete (White Wall) f6B 8
107 Rubber Wall (Grey Wall) f4 3
  TC 2.2 Hand Full
109 Hand Full Arete f6A 9
110 Spicy f6A * 5
  TC 2.3 Sloping Beauty
112 Hanging Groove f6C ** 34
113 Vanishing Point f8A  
114 Sloping Beauty f7B+ ** 43
115 Sutty's Dyno f7B  
  TC 2.4 Undercut Arete
117 Undercut Arete f6B 3
  TC 2.5 Trick Arete
119 Highball Wall
-
f4+ ** 12
120 Trick Arete f6B+ ** 72
121 Crimpy Wall f5 42
  TC 2.6 Low Rider - Drop Down Traverse
123 Drop-down Traverse
-
f6C ** 11
124 Drop Down Traverse Late Start Early Finish f5+ 25
125 Low Rider - Problem 3 f6B 20
126 Pop Up Arete f6B 33
  TC 2.7 Cool Hand
128 Cool Hand Wall f5 15
129 Cool Hand f6A+ 11
130 The Groove f5 11
  TC 2.8 Low Slab
132 Centre Court f6A+ 4
133 Right of Centre f4+ 6
  Boundary Wall
135 The Ribber E3 6a 1
136 Green Rib f6A+ * 6
137 Green Rib Right-hand f6C * 4
138 Butterfly Crack VS 4c 6
139 Butterfly Wall E2 6b 1
140 Shothole Ridge VS 4c * 22
141 Long Shot E1 5c 1
142 Mantel Maniac E3 6b  
143 Blade HVS 5b 3
144 Little Demon MS 16
145 Paintstripper Gritter
-
E4 6b  
146 A Stretcher Case E1 5c 1
147 Cave Crack MS 5
148 Necessary Evil
-
E5 6c  
149 YAB Chimney VD 3
150 Walkabout
-
HVS 5b  
  TC 3.1 Simple Arete
152 Simple Arete (Left Arete) f5 5
153 Simple Slab (Right Wall)
-
f6B  
154 The Ribber
-
f6C 1
  TC 3.2 Butterfly Wall
156 Slim Shady f8A * 2
157 Butterfly Wall (Bloc)
-
f7A * 8
158 Superfly f7B+ * 15
  Little Buttress
160 Trifle HVS 5b 1
161 The Book of Unanswered Questions
-
E2 6a  
162 Dirty Wall
-
HVS 5a  
163 Little Buttress D 7
164 Moonlight Saunter HVS 5b 2
  Main Buttress
166 Distant Early Warning E6 6c *  
167 Abstract Attittude E5 6b *  
168 Desert Island Arete E6 6c *** 2
169 Washed Up
-
E6 6b  
170 The Last Blasphemy
-
E7 6c  
171 Dougie Lampkin E6 6c **  
172 Viscount's Route HVS 5a ** 39
173 Valentine's Frog E1 5b 1
174 Viscount's Wall Variations
-
E2 6a  
175 Perch Wall HVS 5b ** 9
176 Flight E1 5b 1
177 Sanderson's Sorrow
-
E4 6b  
178 The Earl of Funk
-
E6 6c  
179 Matilda's Meander
-
E1 5c  
180 Liz's Wall E3 6b 1
181 Earl Crack VS 4c *** 143
182 Earl Buttress E2 5c *** 84
183 Captain Gap E2 6a  
184 Main Buttress Girdle VS 4c  
185 Evasion E1 5b * 2
186 Stall E3 6a * 3
187 Trite Rib E3 5c ** 5
188 Alien's Stole My Bolt Kit E5 6b  
189 Chockstone Crack S 4a 8
190 The Widge Tingle
-
E2 5c  
  TC 3.3 Konrad Bartelski
192 Konrad Bartelski f6B  
193 The Way Home (Roger's Arete) f6B  
194 Long Way Home f6B  
195 Mow Wall f5+ 1
  TC 3.4 Desert Island Arete
197 Desert Island Arete Sit Start (bloc)
-
f7B *** 31
198 Desert Island Arete (Bloc) f7A+ *** 43
199 Dave's Start f7B 2
200 Andy's Problem f7B  
  Prow Buttress
202 Prow Chimney D 35
203 Prow Buttress HVD 3c * 115
204 Look Who's Stalking
-
E1 5c 2
205 Jock Jones VS 4c * 48
206 Tiger Wall VS 4c *** 231
207 Tiger Traverse 1 VS 4c * 41
208 Tiger Traverse 2 HVS 5a ** 18
209 The Prowler HVS 5a 5
210 Clean Kill
-
E1 5b 2
211 The Extinguisher D 21
212 Bring Your Own Bombs HVS 5b 3
213 Mousehole Slab VS 4b * 86
214 Rat Juggling E1 5a 36
215 Sharp Arete E1 6a * 24
216 Sweet Apples E4 6b * 1
217 Sour Grapes E3 6a ** 41
218 Boundary Wall HVS 5b 8
219 The Bolder Problem
-
E1 6a  
220 Wall Chimney D 3
221 Hand Traverse VD 4
222 Cut Throat E2 6b * 3
223 Ledge Climb HS 4a 5
224 Slab Solo VD 2
225 Solo Slab VD 18
  TC 3.5 Rat Au Van
227 Rat Au Vin f6A+ ** 46
  TC 3.6 Sour Grapes
229 Sour Grapes Traverse f6B * 7
  TC 3.7 Grape Nut
231 Grape Nut (Bloc) f7B+ ** 62
232 Grape Nut (No block) f7B *** 17
233 Krafty f7C+ *  
234 Power Drop f6B ** 11
  TC 3.8 Handy Andy's
236 Problem 8 f4+ 20
237 Eliminate Slab
-
f6A 18
238 Slab Wall
-
f4 28
239 Iggy's Groove
-
f5+ 35
240 Dyno Wall (Standing)
-
f5+ 28
241 Dyno Wall Sit Start f6C * 2
242 Handy Andy's (Leach's Wall) f7A+ ** 50
243 Handy Andy's Direct f7C+ ** 4
244 Warm Up Arete f5 ** 55
245 Andy Brown's Wall f7B 38
  Tc 4.1 The Flakes
247 Dink Wall f6C+ ** 4
248 The Gimp f7A * 10
249 The Flakes
-
f7B ** 26
250 Lager Lager Lager (Dave's Groove) f7C *** 14
251 Lager Lager Lager (Dave's groove) sit start f7C+ *** 1
252 Twelve Bore f8A+  
  TC 4.2 The John Dunne Slap
254 Ron's Slab f6C ** 5
255 Ron's Arete
-
f6C ** 24
256 The John Dunne Slap f6B 6b * 104
  TC 4.3 Down Under
258 Blunt Arete f6A * 3
  Tc 4.4 Australia Roof
260 Australia Roof f6B ** 46
261 Australia Roof Arete f6C+ ** 12
262 Rippled Wall to Right
-
f5+ 5
  TC 5.1 Pinnacle Wall
264 Pinnacle Wall (The Nose) f4 4
265 Pinnacle Groove f4+ 9
266 The Grooved Arete f6C * 1
267 Back In Black f7B  
268 Thunderstruck f5+ 1
  TC 5.2 The Pinnacle
270 Pinnacle Slab f5 4
271 Dig Your Own Grave f6B+ * 1
  TC 5.3 Underworld
273 Underworld f7C+ *** 5
274 Underworld Sans Block
-
f7C+ 1
275 Underpants f7B+ ** 16
  TC 5.4 Close Range - Bridge Boulder
277 Rib Tickler
-
f4 13
278 Barn Door Arete
-
f4+ 6
279 Barn Door Arete SDS
-
f6A 6
280 Boulder 24, P2
-
VB 3c 8
281 Easy Groove f6B * 17
282 Weight Gain f6B+ 3
283 Feel the Burn
-
f7C+ **  
  Solitary Block
285 Pocket Edge
-
f5+ 1
286 Front Face
-
f5 4
  TC 5.5 Hanging Arete
288 Hanging Arete f6B+ 13
289 The Scoop (Boulder 26, P4)
-
f4+ 12
  TC 6.1 Big Block
291 Phantom f6A 7
292 Ghost f5 9
293 Boulder 29 P8 (Earl Crag)
-
V4 6a 5
  TC 6.2 Isolated Pinnacle
295 Pinnacle Rib f6A 3
296 Pinnacle Edge f6C  
297 Colt 45 f7C *** 1
  Unsorted Climbs

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