UKC

Climbs 244
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 191m a.s.l
Faces all

Amazonian gritstone? Me on The Alamo (E2 5b), Eavestone, North Yorkshire © Jamie Moss

Crag features

Fantastic setting, hidden gems are dotted around two small lakes jam-packed full of jumping trout. The climbing is in accordance with Yorkshire grading (sandbags abound) and gives some excellent problems within a truly esoteric wooded area. [Chris George 12/02]

or 3 years from 1989 to 1991 this was my favourite crag, I rarely went anywhere else. However its not one to visit at late autumn. April/May is the best time, although on a dry but windy winter's day you will find some sheltered climbing and bouldering on the Wall on Mirrored Water and Boathouse buttress areas. The Fort stays fairly clean and dry as well. [Dave Musgrove 12/02]

Visited to check out top rope potential with our (small) kids. Not super child friendly, but the routes looked good, reasonably clean and with evidence of fresh chalk. Definitely keen to return.
Sam W - 22/Aug/16
A significant re-cleaning effort has been undertaken over the last few weeks, particularly on The Eavestone, Wedge and Wall on Mirrored Water. Tin Pan Alley is also in pretty good condition at the moment and 2 new routes have been added. On the Eavestone itself all routes from Stonechat Ramp round the back to Eavestone Wall have been repeated and Crazy Paver in its clean condition thought to compare well with any other 3 star E2 in Yorkshire. Go get them done whilst still clean.
Dave Musgrove - 31/Mar/12
Echoing others' comments here, a brilliant set of buttresses, good quality routes across a range of grades, and, as we found out today, fantastically sheltered when gale-force winds make Almscliff/Brimham etc a bit baltic for comfortable climbing. I was expecting the greenness to be a lot worse than it actually was; we weren't turned back from any routes by their being too dirty or green.
PeteH - 28/Mar/10
In agreement with Fiend, we went there 3/05/07 and had a pleasant evening. Did Portcullis and Spinnaker, if the routes were cleaner they would warrant a lot more attention. I had also climbed there the previous weekend doing routes on Sunnyside Buttress, quite a clean little outcrop.
Crofty - 04/May/07
Would be the best crag in Yorkshire by some way if it was all clean and in condition - the underlying rock quality, variety, and lines are superb. Even as it is now, shrouded by trees and rhodies, and with many routes in need of cleaning, there is still some excellent climbing. The Fort area is in good condition, and the Eavestone and Wedge have some great climbs on. Well worth a visit and deserves a lot more attention.
Fiend - 28/Mar/07
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  *** The Upper Lake ***
  The Fort Buttress
3 Lady of the Lake E3 6a ** 3
4 Apache E1 5c * 1
5 Wet Landing S 4b 2
6 Geronimo! E3 6a * 1
7 Portcullis S 4a ** 154
8 King of the Wild Frontier E4 6a *** 5
9 Excalibur E2 5c * 2
10 Excalibur (Original finish) E1 5b * 3
11 The Alamo E2 5b *** 58
12 Oubliette E2 5b ** 24
13 OubliarĂȘte E3 6a * 2
14 After the Gold Rush E3 6a 2
15 Hallmark E3 5c * 8
16 Rearguard S 4a 4
17 Scalp HVS 5c 2
18 Scrap f4+  
19 Portal Rib
-
f5 1
20 Sangatte
-
f3 1
21 See the Light
-
f4+ 1
22 French Connection
-
f4 1
23 Whistling in the Dark
-
HS 4b 5
24 The Keep
-
S 4a 4
25 Look Out Below VS 4c  
26 The Gatekeeper
-
E3 6b * 2
27 For Keepsake
-
HVS 5b * 3
28 Short Chimney VD * 1
  The Castle Walls
30 Castellan HVS 5b * 27
31 Battlement E3 6a ** 8
32 The Dirty Rascal E1 5c * 5
33 King of the Castle E2 5c * 24
34 Rampart HVS 5b * 7
35 Ditch
-
HVS 5c 2
36 Casement Crack VD 10
37 Dungeon S 4a 18
38 Stockade VS 4c 14
39 Merlon E1 6a * 14
40 Crenellation E1 5c * 39
41 Machicolation VS 4c 18
42 Arrow Slit HS 4b 27
43 Boiling Oil f5+ * 3
44 Moat-ivation f4 * 7
  The Drawbridge
46 Chainmail
-
VS 4b 1
47 Sea of Tranquility
-
HVS 5b 1
48 Dance On White Horses
-
E2 5c * 3
49 Ripples
-
HVS 5a * 4
50 Yellow Fever E5 6a ** 2
51 Watery Grave
-
E3 5c 1
52 Don't Pay the Ferryman HVS 5a 1
53 Low Tide HVS 5b 1
54 Mean High Water E3 6a ** 1
  *** The Lower Lake *** Northern Bank
  The Little Sails
57 The Plunge
-
S 4a 1
58 Sea Dog
-
VS 4c  
59 Upper Sail
-
VS 5a 2
60 Lower Sail
-
VS 5a  
61 Shiver Me Timbers
-
VS 5a  
62 Cannon Fodder
-
f5+ 1
63 Ready For Action
-
f5 1
64 Armada
-
f4 1
65 Finish the Bowls
-
f4+ 1
  Wall on Mirrored Water
67 Still Water
-
f3+ 11
68 Rough Water
-
f5+ * 5
69 Rough Water Eliminate f6A 2
70 Relections f6B * 4
71 Thin Ice
-
f5 ** 4
72 Troubled Water
-
f5+ * 3
73 Canada Dry
-
f6C  
74 Murky Water
-
f4+ 3
75 Over the Looking Glass
-
f6C **  
76 Yorkshire Water f6B 3
  Sunnyside Buttress
78 Sundown D * 66
79 Sundial S 4a * 59
80 Sunstroke VD * 66
81 Winter Sunshine MVS 4b 58
82 Sun-Up VS 4c ** 64
83 Sun Bird
-
HVS 5a * 38
84 Sun Bingo
-
S 4a 25
85 Sunday Sun f4 * 2
  The Gemstones
87 Bauble
-
f4+ 3
88 Little Gem
-
f6B *** 8
89 Too Much Too Young
-
f7A * 2
90 The Flaw
-
f5 * 6
91 Flawless
-
f5 1
Climb name Grade
92 Rough Cut
-
f5+ * 1
93 Little Sparkler
-
f6B ** 3
94 Left Gemstones Traverse f5+ 3
95 Pyrites
-
f4+ 2
96 Paw Wall f3 1
97 Claw Wall f6A 1
98 I Need a Tree f5 3
99 Rounded Green Arete f5+ 2
100 Oakey Kokey
-
f5 7
101 Oakey Kokey Sit f5+ 3
102 Beech Peach
-
f5+ 1
103 Grove Hell f6C 1
104 Right Gemstones Traverse f4+ 2
  Boathouse Bluff
106 Rough Patch f7B ** 2
107 Strange Attractor
-
E3 6a ** 4
108 Pebbledash
-
E4 6c * 1
109 Heave Ho
-
E2 5c 2
110 Pushing the Boat Out
-
E3 5c 1
111 Starboard Crack
-
S 4b 2
112 Digital Dilemma V8  
113 Boaty McBoat Face f7B+ ** 1
  The Crevasse Area
115 The Fabulous Number Two f7C 1
116 Digital Delirium f7C+ 1
117 Auroras Encore f8A 1
118 Sky Diamond f7C 1
119 Good Friday E3 5c * 2
120 Leaving the Bergschrund
-
HVS 5c * 5
121 Get a Grip f7A 12
122 Das Kleiner Sprung HVS 5c * 3
123 Glacier Apron
-
VS 5a * 9
124 Dew Drop f7A+ 3
125 Touching the Void
-
E2 6a ** 7
126 Diamond Lights f7C 1
127 Tree Slots f5+ * 3
  The Serac
129 Dick Vierra f6C 2
130 Daddies Source f6C+ 1
131 Glissade
-
D 2
132 Ice Dance
-
HVS 5b  
133 Cracked Ice
-
HVS 5a  
134 Skating on thin ice f7A+ 1
135 Iced Diamond
-
E1 5b  
136 Cream
-
E2 6a ** 1
137 Hanging Serac
-
E1 5b * 3
138 The Traverse
-
f6C+ 3
  Mystery Buttress
140 Narrow Slab
-
VD 1
141 Mystery Man
-
VS 5a  
142 Central Chimney
-
VD  
143 Tiptoe
-
VD  
144 Checkmate
-
HS 4b  
145 Microchip
-
VS 4b 2
  *** The Lower lake *** Southern Bank
  Kloof Crag
148 African Skies
-
S 4a 1
149 Mhablatini
-
HVS 5c 2
150 Tonquani
-
VS 5b * 2
151 Umkomeni
-
MVS 4c * 1
152 Sekorora
-
HS 4b 1
  The Jib Sail
154 Robbed at Dunn Point f7C 2
155 Wildcat
-
VS 4b 1
156 Spinnaker S 4a *** 92
157 Bowsprit
-
VS 5a * 2
158 Atlantic Voyager
-
E2 5c 1
159 Jigger Me Fingers
-
E3 5c  
160 Master Bates Left-Hand
-
E3 6a  
161 Master Bates Right-Hand
-
E3 6a  
162 Up She Rises
-
E4 6b  
163 Yardarm
-
VD 7
164 Jib Sail
-
D 12
  The Galleon Tower
  Upper Tier
167 Captain Pugwash
-
HVD 1
168 Spanish Main E1 5b 1
169 Galleon Tower
-
HVS 5a 1
170 Treasure Island E2 5b ** 5
171 Jolly Roger
-
VS 4b 3
172 Long John Sliver
-
VS 5a 1
173 Banana Boat
-
HVS 5b 1
174 The Pirates Ear
-
E1 5b * 2
175 Brave New World
-
VS 4c * 1
176 Savage
-
f6A * 1
177 Director
-
f4+ 1
  Lower Tier
179 Swashbuckler
-
HVS 5a 1
180 Roses of Picardy
-
E4 5c  
181 Trapeze
-
HVS 5a * 2
182 Keelhaul
-
HVS 5b 1
Climb name Grade
183 Gangplank
-
S 4a  
184 Bilgewater
-
VD 1
  South Bank Bloc
186 Black Hand Jack f7A *** 7
187 Arc f6A * 3
188 Black Pool Rock f6C * 2
189 Black Ops f6A+ 1
190 Blackfish f5 1
191 Learn to Fly f6B ** 1
  The Cabin in the Woods Bloc
193 The Innocents f6B ** 4
194 The Haunting f6C *** 3
195 The Sixth Sense f6A ** 5
196 Texas Chainsaw Moussaka f6B+ *** 3
197 The Grudge f4+ 5
198 The Spiral Staircase f6C+ ** 2
199 The People Under the Stairs f5+ ** 3
200 Final Destination f6B+ *** 1
201 Put a Donk on it f6A+ ** 2
202 The Hills Have Eyes f6B+ 2
203 Killer on the Campus f6B 2
204 The Mist f3 2
205 The Blair Witch Project f7A *** 1
  The Eavestone
207 Under The Eaves E2 5b 7
208 The Garden of Eden
-
HS 4b 8
209 Evenso HVS 5a * 16
210 Eavesdropper HVS 5a ** 48
211 Lib Dem Arete E3 5c * 2
212 Crazy Paver E2 5c ** 12
213 The Madcap Laughs E4 6c *** 1
214 Eavestone Wall E3 6b *** 13
215 Eavestone Crack E4 6a *** 9
216 Genesis E5 6b *** 2
217 Life Begins At Forty E6 6c ***  
218 Stonechat Ramp
-
E3 5b 2
219 Stonechat
-
E1 5c * 9
220 Stonerag
-
S 4a 9
221 Forbidden Fruit
-
VS 4c 4
222 Eavestone Eliminate
-
E1 5c 8
  The Wedge
224 Wedge Iron
-
HVS 5a 1
225 Gorilla
-
VS 4c 1
226 The Thin End HVS 5a * 9
227 Fat Chance E3 5c * 31
228 Wedgwood HVS 5a ** 47
229 The Taper HS 4b * 40
230 The Heel S 4c * 47
231 Bunkered E2 6a * 5
232 Rib Tickler
-
f5 1
233 Treebeard
-
f6A 1
234 Wellington Crack II
-
S 4b 1
235 Secret Obsession
-
HVS 5a 1
236 Purely Esoteric
-
VS 5a 1
237 The Fissure Barley
-
HS 4b 2
  The Prow
239 Hurricane
-
E1 5b 1
240 Prowler
-
HVS 5b * 1
241 Prow Crack
-
S 4b 1
242 Swinging Free
-
E2 5b *** 4
243 Spitfire
-
VS 5a 1
244 The Root to Success
-
E2 5c  
  Alley-Palley Wall
246 Chiminalley
-
S 4a 1
247 Officer Dibble
-
E1 5c 1
248 Alleycat
-
HVS 5b 1
249 Allycracker
-
HVS 5b * 5
250 Going Catatonic
-
E1 5c * 3
251 Backalley
-
S 4b 3
252 The Ginnel
-
HS 4b 1
253 Top Cat
-
HVS 5a 1
254 Alligator
-
E4 6b * 1
255 Crocodile
-
E5 6b ** 2
  Tin Pan Alley
257 Jumping Jack
-
HVS 5b 1
258 Dragonfly
-
HVS 5a 3
259 Ride the Magic Dragon
-
HVS 5b 2
260 Duck-billed Platinum Blonde f6C **  
261 Puff
-
E1 5b 1
262 Dragonslayer
-
E5 6a *** 5
263 Vermithrax f7A * 1
264 The Meaning of Life
-
E2 5c ** 5
265 Here There Be Dragons
-
E3 5b ** 4
266 Tin
-
VS 4c  
267 Pan
-
VS 5a 1
268 Pendragon E2 6a * 4
269 Don't Worry, I'm a Nurse
-
E4 6a * 2
270 Roots of all Evil E1 5b * 2
  Not Checked

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