Climbs 246
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 191m a.s.l
Faces all

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Amazonian gritstone? Me on The Alamo (E2 5b), Eavestone, North Yorkshire © Jamie Moss

Crag features

Fantastic setting, hidden gems are dotted around two small lakes jam-packed full of jumping trout. The climbing is in accordance with Yorkshire grading (sandbags abound) and gives some excellent problems within a truly esoteric wooded area. [Chris George 12/02]

For 3 years from 1989 to 1991 this was my favourite crag, I rarely went anywhere else. However its not one to visit at late autumn. April/May is the best time, although on a dry but windy winter's day you will find some sheltered climbing and bouldering on the Wall on Mirrored Water and Boathouse buttress areas. The Fort stays fairly clean and dry as well. [Dave Musgrove 12/02]

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Guidebooks

Visited to check out top rope potential with our (small) kids. Not super child friendly, but the routes looked good, reasonably clean and with evidence of fresh chalk. Definitely keen to return.
Sam W - 22/Aug/16
A significant re-cleaning effort has been undertaken over the last few weeks, particularly on The Eavestone, Wedge and Wall on Mirrored Water. Tin Pan Alley is also in pretty good condition at the moment and 2 new routes have been added. On the Eavestone itself all routes from Stonechat Ramp round the back to Eavestone Wall have been repeated and Crazy Paver in its clean condition thought to compare well with any other 3 star E2 in Yorkshire. Go get them done whilst still clean.
Dave Musgrove - 31/Mar/12
Echoing others' comments here, a brilliant set of buttresses, good quality routes across a range of grades, and, as we found out today, fantastically sheltered when gale-force winds make Almscliff/Brimham etc a bit baltic for comfortable climbing. I was expecting the greenness to be a lot worse than it actually was; we weren't turned back from any routes by their being too dirty or green.
PeteH - 28/Mar/10
In agreement with Fiend, we went there 3/05/07 and had a pleasant evening. Did Portcullis and Spinnaker, if the routes were cleaner they would warrant a lot more attention. I had also climbed there the previous weekend doing routes on Sunnyside Buttress, quite a clean little outcrop.
Crofty - 04/May/07
Would be the best crag in Yorkshire by some way if it was all clean and in condition - the underlying rock quality, variety, and lines are superb. Even as it is now, shrouded by trees and rhodies, and with many routes in need of cleaning, there is still some excellent climbing. The Fort area is in good condition, and the Eavestone and Wedge have some great climbs on. Well worth a visit and deserves a lot more attention.
Fiend - 28/Mar/07
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  *** The Upper Lake ***
  The Fort Buttress
3 Lady of the Lake E3 6a ** 3
4 Apache E1 5c * 1
5 Wet Landing S 4b 4
6 Geronimo! E3 6a * 1
7 Portcullis S 4a ** 172
8 King of the Wild Frontier E4 6a *** 5
9 Excalibur E2 5c * 2
10 Excalibur (Original finish) E1 5b * 3
11 The Alamo E2 5b *** 64
12 Oubliette E2 5b ** 32
13 OubliarĂȘte E3 6a * 2
14 After the Gold Rush E3 6a 2
15 Hallmark E3 5c * 11
16 Rearguard S 4a 6
17 Scalp HVS 5c 2
18 Scrap f4+  
19 Portal Rib
-
f5 1
20 Sangatte
-
f3 1
21 See the Light
-
f4+ 1
22 French Connection
-
f4 1
23 Whistling in the Dark
-
HS 4b 5
24 The Keep
-
S 4a 4
25 Look Out Below VS 4c  
26 The Gatekeeper
-
E3 6b * 2
27 For Keepsake
-
HVS 5b * 3
28 Short Chimney VD * 1
  The Castle Walls
30 Castellan HVS 5b * 32
31 Battlement E3 6a ** 12
32 The Dirty Rascal E1 5c * 5
33 King of the Castle E2 5c * 26
34 Rampart HVS 5b * 7
35 Ditch
-
HVS 5c 2
36 Casement Crack VD 13
37 Dungeon S 4a 20
38 Stockade VS 4c 16
39 Merlon E1 6a * 15
40 Crenellation E1 5c * 42
41 Machicolation VS 4c 20
42 Arrow Slit HS 4b 30
43 Boiling Oil f5+ * 3
44 Moat-ivation f4 * 7
  The Drawbridge
46 Chainmail
-
VS 4b 1
47 Sea of Tranquility
-
HVS 5b 1
48 Dance On White Horses
-
E2 5c * 3
49 Ripples
-
HVS 5a * 4
50 Yellow Fever E5 6a ** 2
51 Watery Grave
-
E3 5c 1
52 Don't Pay the Ferryman HVS 5a 1
53 Low Tide HVS 5b 1
54 Mean High Water E3 6a ** 1
  *** The Lower Lake *** Northern Bank
  The Little Sails
57 The Plunge
-
S 4a 1
58 Sea Dog
-
VS 4c  
59 Upper Sail
-
VS 5a 2
60 Lower Sail
-
VS 5a  
61 Shiver Me Timbers
-
VS 5a  
62 Cannon Fodder
-
f5+ 1
63 Ready For Action
-
f5 1
64 Armada
-
f4 1
65 Finish the Bowls
-
f4+ 1
  Wall on Mirrored Water
67 Still Water
-
f3+ 11
68 Rough Water
-
f5+ * 5
69 Rough Water Eliminate f6A 2
70 Relections f6B * 4
71 Thin Ice
-
f5 ** 4
72 Troubled Water
-
f5+ * 3
73 Canada Dry
-
f6C  
74 Murky Water
-
f4+ 3
75 Over the Looking Glass
-
f6C **  
76 Yorkshire Water f6B 3
  Sunnyside Buttress
78 Sundown D * 69
79 Sundial S 4a * 62
80 Sunstroke VD * 69
81 Winter Sunshine MVS 4b 60
82 Sun-Up VS 4c ** 66
83 Sun Bird
-
HVS 5a * 40
84 Sun Bingo
-
S 4a 26
85 Sunday Sun f4 * 2
  The Gemstones
87 Bauble
-
f4+ 3
88 Little Gem
-
f6B *** 8
89 Too Much Too Young
-
f7A * 2
90 The Flaw
-
f5 * 6
91 Flawless
-
f5 1
Climb name Grade
92 Rough Cut
-
f5+ * 1
93 Little Sparkler
-
f6B ** 3
94 Left Gemstones Traverse f5+ 3
95 Pyrites
-
f4+ 2
96 Paw Wall f3 1
97 Claw Wall f6A 1
98 I Need a Tree f5 3
99 Rounded Green Arete f5+ 2
100 Oakey Kokey
-
f5 7
101 Oakey Kokey Sit f5+ 3
102 Beech Peach
-
f5+ 1
103 Grove Hell f6C 1
104 Right Gemstones Traverse f4+ 2
  Boathouse Bluff
106 Rough Patch f7B ** 2
107 Strange Attractor
-
E3 6a ** 6
108 Pebbledash
-
E4 6c * 1
109 Heave Ho
-
E2 5c 2
110 Pushing the Boat Out
-
E3 5c 1
111 Starboard Crack
-
S 4b 2
112 Digital Dilemma V8 1
113 Boaty McBoat Face f7B+ ** 1
  The Crevasse Area
115 The Fabulous Number Two f7C 1
116 Digital Delirium f7C+ 1
117 Auroras Encore f8A 1
118 Sky Diamond f7C 1
119 Good Friday E3 5c * 2
120 Leaving the Bergschrund
-
HVS 5c * 6
121 Get a Grip f7A 15
122 Das Kleiner Sprung HVS 5c * 4
123 Glacier Apron
-
VS 5a * 10
124 Dew Drop f7A+ 3
125 Touching the Void
-
E2 6a ** 8
126 Diamond Lights f7C 1
127 Tree Slots f5+ * 4
128 Up to the Tree * f2+ 1
129 Right of the Arete * f3 * 1
  The Serac
131 Dick Vierra f6C 2
132 Daddies Source f6C+ 1
133 Glissade
-
D 2
134 Ice Dance
-
HVS 5b  
135 Cracked Ice
-
HVS 5a  
136 Skating on thin ice f7A+ 2
137 Iced Diamond
-
E1 5b  
138 Cream
-
E2 6a ** 1
139 Hanging Serac
-
E1 5b * 3
140 The Traverse
-
f6C+ 4
  Mystery Buttress
142 Narrow Slab
-
VD 1
143 Mystery Man
-
VS 5a  
144 Central Chimney
-
VD  
145 Tiptoe
-
VD  
146 Checkmate
-
HS 4b  
147 Microchip
-
VS 4b 2
  *** The Lower lake *** Southern Bank
  Kloof Crag
150 African Skies
-
S 4a 1
151 Mhablatini
-
HVS 5c 2
152 Tonquani
-
VS 5b * 2
153 Umkomeni
-
MVS 4c * 1
154 Sekorora
-
HS 4b 1
  The Jib Sail
156 Robbed at Dunn Point f7C 2
157 Wildcat
-
VS 4b 1
158 Spinnaker S 4a *** 104
159 Bowsprit
-
VS 5a * 2
160 Atlantic Voyager
-
E2 5c 1
161 Jigger Me Fingers
-
E3 5c  
162 Master Bates Left-Hand
-
E3 6a  
163 Master Bates Right-Hand
-
E3 6a  
164 Up She Rises
-
E4 6b  
165 Yardarm
-
VD 7
166 Jib Sail
-
D 15
  The Galleon Tower
  Upper Tier
169 Captain Pugwash
-
HVD 1
170 Spanish Main E1 5b 1
171 Galleon Tower
-
HVS 5a 1
172 Treasure Island E2 5b ** 5
173 Jolly Roger
-
VS 4b 3
174 Long John Sliver
-
VS 5a 1
175 Banana Boat
-
HVS 5b 1
176 The Pirates Ear
-
E1 5b * 2
177 Brave New World
-
VS 4c * 1
178 Savage
-
f6A * 1
179 Director
-
f4+ 1
  Lower Tier
181 Swashbuckler
-
HVS 5a 1
182 Roses of Picardy
-
E4 5c  
Climb name Grade
183 Trapeze
-
HVS 5a * 2
184 Keelhaul
-
HVS 5b 1
185 Gangplank
-
S 4a  
186 Bilgewater
-
VD 1
  South Bank Bloc
188 Black Hand Jack f7A *** 8
189 Arc f6A * 3
190 Black Pool Rock f6C * 2
191 Black Ops f6A+ 1
192 Blackfish f5 1
193 Learn to Fly f6B ** 1
  The Cabin in the Woods Bloc
195 The Innocents f6B ** 4
196 The Haunting f6C *** 3
197 The Sixth Sense f6A ** 5
198 Texas Chainsaw Moussaka f6B+ *** 3
199 The Grudge f4+ 5
200 The Spiral Staircase f6C+ ** 2
201 The People Under the Stairs f5+ ** 3
202 Final Destination f6B+ *** 2
203 Put a Donk on it f6A+ ** 2
204 The Hills Have Eyes f6B+ 2
205 Killer on the Campus f6B 2
206 The Mist f3 2
207 The Blair Witch Project f7A *** 1
  The Eavestone
209 Under The Eaves E2 5b 7
210 The Garden of Eden
-
HS 4b 8
211 Evenso HVS 5a * 17
212 Eavesdropper HVS 5a ** 48
213 Lib Dem Arete E3 5c * 2
214 Crazy Paver E2 5c ** 12
215 The Madcap Laughs E4 6c *** 1
216 Eavestone Wall E3 6b *** 13
217 Eavestone Crack E4 6a *** 9
218 Genesis E5 6b *** 2
219 Life Begins At Forty E6 6c ***  
220 Stonechat Ramp
-
E3 5b 2
221 Stonechat
-
E1 5c * 10
222 Stonerag
-
S 4a 10
223 Forbidden Fruit
-
VS 4c 4
224 Eavestone Eliminate
-
E1 5c 8
  The Wedge
226 Wedge Iron
-
HVS 5a 1
227 Gorilla
-
VS 4c 1
228 The Thin End HVS 5a * 9
229 Fat Chance E3 5c * 33
230 Wedgwood HVS 5a ** 49
231 The Taper HS 4b * 41
232 The Heel S 4c * 48
233 Bunkered E2 6a * 5
234 Rib Tickler
-
f5 1
235 Treebeard
-
f6A 1
236 Wellington Crack II
-
S 4b 1
237 Secret Obsession
-
HVS 5a 1
238 Purely Esoteric
-
VS 5a 1
239 The Fissure Barley
-
HS 4b 2
  The Prow
241 Hurricane
-
E1 5b 1
242 Prowler
-
HVS 5b * 1
243 Prow Crack
-
S 4b 1
244 Swinging Free
-
E2 5b *** 4
245 Spitfire
-
VS 5a 1
246 The Root to Success
-
E2 5c  
  Alley-Palley Wall
248 Chiminalley
-
S 4a 1
249 Officer Dibble
-
E1 5c 1
250 Alleycat
-
HVS 5b 1
251 Allycracker
-
HVS 5b * 5
252 Going Catatonic
-
E1 5c * 3
253 Backalley
-
S 4b 3
254 The Ginnel
-
HS 4b 1
255 Top Cat
-
HVS 5a 1
256 Alligator
-
E4 6b * 1
257 Crocodile
-
E5 6b ** 2
  Tin Pan Alley
259 Jumping Jack
-
HVS 5b 1
260 Dragonfly
-
HVS 5a 3
261 Ride the Magic Dragon
-
HVS 5b 2
262 Duck-billed Platinum Blonde f6C **  
263 Puff
-
E1 5b 1
264 Dragonslayer
-
E5 6a *** 5
265 Vermithrax f7A * 1
266 The Meaning of Life
-
E2 5c ** 5
267 Here There Be Dragons
-
E3 5b ** 4
268 Tin
-
VS 4c  
269 Pan
-
VS 5a 1
270 Pendragon E2 6a * 4
271 Don't Worry, I'm a Nurse
-
E4 6a * 3
272 Roots of all Evil E1 5b * 2
  Not Checked
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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