Climbs 242
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 191m a.s.l
Faces all

Amazonian gritstone? Me on The Alamo (E2 5b), Eavestone, North Yorkshire © Jamie Moss

Crag features

Fantastic setting, hidden gems are dotted around two small lakes jam-packed full of jumping trout. The climbing is in accordance with Yorkshire grading (sandbags abound) and gives some excellent problems within a truly esoteric wooded area. [Chris George 12/02]

or 3 years from 1989 to 1991 this was my favourite crag, I rarely went anywhere else. However its not one to visit at late autumn. April/May is the best time, although on a dry but windy winter's day you will find some sheltered climbing and bouldering on the Wall on Mirrored Water and Boathouse buttress areas. The Fort stays fairly clean and dry as well. [Dave Musgrove 12/02]

Visited to check out top rope potential with our (small) kids. Not super child friendly, but the routes looked good, reasonably clean and with evidence of fresh chalk. Definitely keen to return.
Sam W - 22/Aug/16
A significant re-cleaning effort has been undertaken over the last few weeks, particularly on The Eavestone, Wedge and Wall on Mirrored Water. Tin Pan Alley is also in pretty good condition at the moment and 2 new routes have been added. On the Eavestone itself all routes from Stonechat Ramp round the back to Eavestone Wall have been repeated and Crazy Paver in its clean condition thought to compare well with any other 3 star E2 in Yorkshire. Go get them done whilst still clean.
Dave Musgrove - 31/Mar/12
Echoing others' comments here, a brilliant set of buttresses, good quality routes across a range of grades, and, as we found out today, fantastically sheltered when gale-force winds make Almscliff/Brimham etc a bit baltic for comfortable climbing. I was expecting the greenness to be a lot worse than it actually was; we weren't turned back from any routes by their being too dirty or green.
PeteH - 28/Mar/10
In agreement with Fiend, we went there 3/05/07 and had a pleasant evening. Did Portcullis and Spinnaker, if the routes were cleaner they would warrant a lot more attention. I had also climbed there the previous weekend doing routes on Sunnyside Buttress, quite a clean little outcrop.
Crofty - 04/May/07
Would be the best crag in Yorkshire by some way if it was all clean and in condition - the underlying rock quality, variety, and lines are superb. Even as it is now, shrouded by trees and rhodies, and with many routes in need of cleaning, there is still some excellent climbing. The Fort area is in good condition, and the Eavestone and Wedge have some great climbs on. Well worth a visit and deserves a lot more attention.
Fiend - 28/Mar/07
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  *** The Upper Lake ***
  The Fort Buttress
3 Lady of the Lake E3 6a ** 3
4 Apache E1 5c * 1
5 Wet Landing S 4b 2
6 Geronimo! E3 6a * 1
7 Portcullis S 4a ** 164
8 King of the Wild Frontier E4 6a *** 5
9 Excalibur E2 5c * 2
10 Excalibur (Original finish) E1 5b * 3
11 The Alamo E2 5b *** 58
12 Oubliette E2 5b ** 24
13 OubliarĂȘte E3 6a * 2
14 After the Gold Rush E3 6a 2
15 Hallmark E3 5c * 8
16 Rearguard S 4a 4
17 Scalp HVS 5c 2
18 Scrap f4+  
19 Portal Rib
-
f5 1
20 Sangatte
-
f3 1
21 See the Light
-
f4+ 1
22 French Connection
-
f4 1
23 Whistling in the Dark
-
HS 4b 5
24 The Keep
-
S 4a 4
25 Look Out Below VS 4c  
26 The Gatekeeper
-
E3 6b * 2
27 For Keepsake
-
HVS 5b * 3
28 Short Chimney VD * 1
  The Castle Walls
30 Castellan HVS 5b * 27
31 Battlement E3 6a ** 8
32 The Dirty Rascal E1 5c * 5
33 King of the Castle E2 5c * 24
34 Rampart HVS 5b * 7
35 Ditch
-
HVS 5c 2
36 Casement Crack VD 10
37 Dungeon S 4a 18
38 Stockade VS 4c 14
39 Merlon E1 6a * 14
40 Crenellation E1 5c * 39
41 Machicolation VS 4c 18
42 Arrow Slit HS 4b 27
43 Boiling Oil f5+ * 3
44 Moat-ivation f4 * 7
  The Drawbridge
46 Chainmail
-
VS 4b 1
47 Sea of Tranquility
-
HVS 5b 1
48 Dance On White Horses
-
E2 5c * 3
49 Ripples
-
HVS 5a * 4
50 Yellow Fever E5 6a ** 2
51 Watery Grave
-
E3 5c 1
52 Don't Pay the Ferryman HVS 5a 1
53 Low Tide HVS 5b 1
54 Mean High Water E3 6a ** 1
  *** The Lower Lake *** Northern Bank
  The Little Sails
57 The Plunge
-
S 4a 1
58 Sea Dog
-
VS 4c  
59 Upper Sail
-
VS 5a 2
60 Lower Sail
-
VS 5a  
61 Shiver Me Timbers
-
VS 5a  
62 Cannon Fodder
-
f5+ 1
63 Ready For Action
-
f5 1
64 Armada
-
f4 1
65 Finish the Bowls
-
f4+ 1
  Wall on Mirrored Water
67 Still Water
-
f3+ 11
68 Rough Water
-
f5+ * 5
69 Rough Water Eliminate f6A 2
70 Relections f6B * 4
71 Thin Ice
-
f5 ** 4
72 Troubled Water
-
f5+ * 3
73 Canada Dry
-
f6C  
74 Murky Water
-
f4+ 3
75 Over the Looking Glass
-
f6C **  
76 Yorkshire Water f6B 3
  Sunnyside Buttress
78 Sundown D * 65
79 Sundial S 4a * 58
80 Sunstroke VD * 65
81 Winter Sunshine MVS 4b 57
82 Sun-Up VS 4c ** 63
83 Sun Bird
-
HVS 5a * 37
84 Sun Bingo
-
S 4a 25
85 Sunday Sun f4 * 2
  The Gemstones
87 Bauble
-
f4+ 3
88 Little Gem
-
f6B *** 8
89 Too Much Too Young
-
f7A * 2
90 The Flaw
-
f5 * 6
91 Flawless
-
f5 1
92 Rough Cut
-
f5+ * 1
93 Little Sparkler
-
f6B ** 3
94 Left Gemstones Traverse f5+ 3
95 Pyrites
-
f4+ 2
96 Paw Wall f3 1
97 Claw Wall f6A 1
98 I Need a Tree f5 3
99 Rounded Green Arete f5+ 2
100 Oakey Kokey
-
f5 7
101 Oakey Kokey Sit f5+ 3
102 Beech Peach
-
f5+ 1
103 Grove Hell f6C 1
104 Right Gemstones Traverse f4+ 2
  Boathouse Bluff
106 Strange Attractor
-
E3 6a ** 4
107 Pebbledash
-
E4 6c * 1
108 Heave Ho
-
E2 5c 2
109 Pushing the Boat Out
-
E3 5c 1
110 Starboard Crack
-
S 4b 2
111 Digital Dilemma V8  
112 Boaty McBoat Face f7B+ ** 1
  The Crevasse Area
114 The Fabulous Number Two f7C 1
115 Digital Delirium f7C+ 1
116 Auroras Encore f8A 1
117 Sky Diamond f7C 1
118 Good Friday E3 5c * 2
119 Leaving the Bergschrund
-
HVS 5c * 5
120 Get a Grip f7A 11
121 Das Kleiner Sprung HVS 5c * 2
122 Glacier Apron
-
VS 5a * 8
123 Dew Drop f7A+ 2
124 Touching the Void
-
E2 6a ** 6
125 Diamond Lights f7C  
126 Tree Slots f5+ * 3
  The Serac
128 Dick Vierra f6C 1
129 Daddies Source f6C+  
130 Glissade
-
D 2
131 Ice Dance
-
HVS 5b  
132 Cracked Ice
-
HVS 5a  
133 Iced Diamond
-
E1 5b  
134 Cream
-
E2 6a ** 1
135 Hanging Serac
-
E1 5b * 3
136 The Traverse
-
f6C+ 3
  Mystery Buttress
138 Narrow Slab
-
VD 1
139 Mystery Man
-
VS 5a  
140 Central Chimney
-
VD  
141 Tiptoe
-
VD  
142 Checkmate
-
HS 4b  
143 Microchip
-
VS 4b 2
  *** The Lower lake *** Southern Bank
  Kloof Crag
146 African Skies
-
S 4a 1
147 Mhablatini
-
HVS 5c 2
148 Tonquani
-
VS 5b * 2
149 Umkomeni
-
MVS 4c * 1
150 Sekorora
-
HS 4b 1
  The Jib Sail
152 Robbed at Dunn Point f7C 1
153 Wildcat
-
VS 4b 1
154 Spinnaker S 4a *** 112
155 Bowsprit
-
VS 5a * 2
156 Atlantic Voyager
-
E2 5c 1
157 Jigger Me Fingers
-
E3 5c  
158 Master Bates Left-Hand
-
E3 6a  
159 Master Bates Right-Hand
-
E3 6a  
160 Up She Rises
-
E4 6b  
161 Yardarm
-
VD 7
162 Jib Sail
-
D 12
  The Galleon Tower
  Upper Tier
165 Captain Pugwash
-
HVD 1
166 Spanish Main E1 5b 1
167 Galleon Tower
-
HVS 5a 1
168 Treasure Island E2 5b ** 5
169 Jolly Roger
-
VS 4b 3
170 Long John Sliver
-
VS 5a 1
171 Banana Boat
-
HVS 5b 1
172 The Pirates Ear
-
E1 5b * 2
173 Brave New World
-
VS 4c * 1
174 Savage
-
f6A * 1
175 Director
-
f4+ 1
  Lower Tier
177 Swashbuckler
-
HVS 5a 1
178 Roses of Picardy
-
E4 5c  
179 Trapeze
-
HVS 5a * 2
180 Keelhaul
-
HVS 5b 1
181 Gangplank
-
S 4a  
182 Bilgewater
-
VD 1
  South Bank Bloc
184 Black Hand Jack f7A *** 6
185 Arc f6A * 2
186 Black Pool Rock f6C * 2
187 Black Ops f6A+ 1
188 Blackfish f5 1
189 Learn to Fly f6B ** 1
  The Cabin in the Woods Bloc
191 The Innocents f6B ** 4
192 The Haunting f6C *** 3
193 The Sixth Sense f6A ** 5
194 Texas Chainsaw Moussaka f6B+ *** 3
195 The Grudge f4+ 5
196 The Spiral Staircase f6C+ ** 2
197 The People Under the Stairs f5+ ** 3
198 Final Destination f6B+ *** 1
199 Put a Donk on it f6A+ ** 2
200 The Hills Have Eyes f6B+ 2
201 Killer on the Campus f6B 2
202 The Mist f3 2
203 The Blair Witch Project f7A *** 1
  The Eavestone
205 Under The Eaves E2 5b 7
206 The Garden of Eden
-
HS 4b 8
207 Evenso HVS 5a * 16
208 Eavesdropper HVS 5a ** 48
209 Lib Dem Arete E3 5c * 2
210 Crazy Paver E2 5c ** 12
211 The Madcap Laughs E4 6c *** 1
212 Eavestone Wall E3 6b *** 13
213 Eavestone Crack E4 6a *** 9
214 Genesis E5 6b *** 2
215 Life Begins At Forty E6 6c ***  
216 Stonechat Ramp
-
E3 5b 2
217 Stonechat
-
E1 5c * 9
218 Stonerag
-
S 4a 9
219 Forbidden Fruit
-
VS 4c 4
220 Eavestone Eliminate
-
E1 5c 8
  The Wedge
222 Wedge Iron
-
HVS 5a 1
223 Gorilla
-
VS 4c 1
224 The Thin End HVS 5a * 9
225 Fat Chance E3 5c * 31
226 Wedgwood HVS 5a ** 47
227 The Taper HS 4b * 39
228 The Heel S 4c * 50
229 Bunkered E2 6a * 5
230 Rib Tickler
-
f5 1
231 Treebeard
-
f6A 1
232 Wellington Crack II
-
S 4b 1
233 Secret Obsession
-
HVS 5a 1
234 Purely Esoteric
-
VS 5a 1
235 The Fissure Barley
-
HS 4b 2
  The Prow
237 Hurricane
-
E1 5b 1
238 Prowler
-
HVS 5b * 1
239 Prow Crack
-
S 4b 1
240 Swinging Free
-
E2 5b *** 4
241 Spitfire
-
VS 5a 1
242 The Root to Success
-
E2 5c  
  Alley-Palley Wall
244 Chiminalley
-
S 4a 1
245 Officer Dibble
-
E1 5c 1
246 Alleycat
-
HVS 5b 1
247 Allycracker
-
HVS 5b * 5
248 Going Catatonic
-
E1 5c * 3
249 Backalley
-
S 4b 3
250 The Ginnel
-
HS 4b 1
251 Top Cat
-
HVS 5a 1
252 Alligator
-
E4 6b * 1
253 Crocodile
-
E5 6b ** 2
  Tin Pan Alley
255 Jumping Jack
-
HVS 5b 1
256 Dragonfly
-
HVS 5a 3
257 Ride the Magic Dragon
-
HVS 5b 2
258 Duck-billed Platinum Blonde f6C **  
259 Puff
-
E1 5b 1
260 Dragonslayer
-
E5 6a *** 5
261 Vermithrax f7A * 1
262 The Meaning of Life
-
E2 5c ** 3
263 Here There Be Dragons
-
E3 5b ** 4
264 Tin
-
VS 4c  
265 Pan
-
VS 5a 1
266 Pendragon E2 6a * 1
267 Don't Worry, I'm a Nurse
-
E4 6a * 2
268 Roots of all Evil E1 5b * 2
  Not Checked

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