Climbs 121
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 274m a.s.l
Faces N

Anyone know what this is? © Carless

Crag features

Some fine rock with truly impressive climbs that follow strong features. Unfortunately it rises from a jungle/jumble of overgrown boulders. Once acquainted with the crag, the cognoscenti will know where to approach their chosen route by abseil. Persevere and you will be rewarded!

Access Advice

No access issues reported in recent years.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Please avoid Buttresses 3-5 during the above dates as peregrines are nesting at the crag.

Visited today and did Comet Wall which needed no cleaning (start from the cave after scramble approach). Also Double Top which also needed no cleaning and is a classic brawl to top out (E1 5b probably). Went to finish up on Magnificat which was a bit grubbier but still climable (probably more like E1, its tough!) if you take the right route, unlike me.
Will Hunt - 16/May/14
Went for an explore today, and was pleasantly surprised. Given the poor reputation of the place, much of it looked fairly clean. North Buttress (which is probably where most people head for first) is by far the dirtiest, wettest, most vegetated of the main buttresses. I started at the far end. No 2 buttress looked particularly good (note, contrary to what the book says it is NOT directly below the mast, but a few hundred metres west (as per the sketch map). Roc's Nest Chimney on No 4 looked inviting, though appears to have nesting kestrels (or similar) at the moment. Hawk Slab (starred Severe on No 5) was invisible behind the vegetation, but the routes between Jezebel and Boundary Chimney all looked good and clean. I walked along the bottom of the crag, for its full length. From No 1 Buttress to the start of Long Wall, the going is mostly quite straightforward, though you have to watch out for big holes in places. From there to North Buttress Block was much less pleasant, but the final section to North Buttress is easy, with a well-worn path. I was on my own so just soloed 1.5 Diffs, but will definitely be back for more.
Simon Caldwell - 24/Jul/10
Very overgrown at the moment, making it difficult to find the top of routes, and to then probably climb them. Would give it a miss until Autumn ..... or spring!
Matt Bill Platypus - 28/Jul/08
Really only suitable for adventure botanists. The path below the crag is an adventure in itself. The crag could do with a clean-up and a lot more traffic but the north facing nature of it means that this is unlikely. Shame really, nice-looking climbs, lots of them and tall.
heidavey - 12/May/08
Sadly, this is not a good crag. Even the 3 star HVSs are sprouting heather all over the place, and seem to remain wet in places even after a long dry spell. The abseil descent necessary for many of the routes doesn't help either as you will probably find yourself committed to fighting your way back up something anyway. Insteading of heading here go to Eavestone, which is similar and nearby, but infinitely better.
jamiemoss - 12/Jun/06
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Number One Butress
2 The Verger
-
E1 5c ** 1
3 Pulpit Chimney VD 2
4 Magnificat
-
HVS 5a *** 3
  Number Two Buttress
6 Letterbox Climb
-
D 2
7 Microcrack
-
HVS 5a * 3
8 The Creation E2 5c *** 7
9 Barleycorn E3 5b  
10 On the Edge E6 6b ***  
11 The Climb That Time Forgot E8 6c **  
12 Illusion
-
HS 4b * 1
13 Aftermath E5 5c *** 3
14 Doomed Oasis E6 6b ** 3
15 Wild Abandon E5 6b ** 1
16 Hook Route
-
E1 5b * 4
  Number Three Buttress
18 Tree Cracks
-
S 3
19 Buttress Route
-
VD * 9
20 Clodhopper HS 4c 1
21 Footpatter
-
VS 4c * 4
22 Pendulum E1 5b * 1
23 Foreign Bodies E2 5c  
24 Stretcher E1 5b 1
  Number Four Buttress
26 Nippem
-
S 1
27 Kandahar Groove
-
S 1
28 Roc's Nest Chimney
-
HS ** 7
29 Dhobi
-
MVS 4b 1
  Number Five Buttress
31 Hawk Slab
-
S 2
32 Aggripa
-
E1 5b * 1
33 Daniel
-
VS 4c 1
34 Tombstone
-
E2 5c ** 1
35 Jezebel
-
HS 4b 2
36 By-pass
-
S 4a 2
37 Autobahn
-
E2 5c * 2
38 Phillipa's Ridge
-
VS 4c 1
  Comet Buttress
40 North Wall Eliminate
-
HVS 5a ** 13
41 Mastermind E4 5c *** 2
42 The Scryking E5 6a 1
43 Comet Wall HVS 5a * 11
44 The Comet's Trail E1 5b ** 2
45 Scissors D 2
  The Long Wall
47 Savage Sentence
-
E1 5b * 1
48 Haberdashery E2 6a 2
49 The Flintstone Pinch E4 6a ** 2
50 The Warriors of Hanuman
-
E5 6b ***  
51 The Slot S 4a 1
52 Winklepicker
-
HVS 5a ** 1
53 Shelter Climb
-
D 2
  Needle's High Buttress
55 Ledge and Crack
-
D 1
  North Buttress Block
57 Double Top
-
HVS 5a 3
58 Speedway VS 4c 1
  North Buttress
60 Thin Man's Delight
-
S 1
61 Midsummer Night's Dream
-
HVS 5b * 1
62 Caveman's Corner
-
S 1
63 North Buttress Crack
-
HS 2
64 North Buttress Ordinary S * 1
65 North Buttress Direct
-
HVS 5a 3
66 Spring Fever
-
VS 4c 1
67 Nobutjust
-
HVS 5b 1
68 Shindig
-
E2 5c ** 1
  ***** Guisecliff Bouldering *****
  The Mop Top Bloc
71 Mop Top Pebbles left f6A 4
72 Mop Top Pebbles Right f6B 3
73 Mop Top Arete Left f6A 13
74 Mop Top Arete Right f6A 15
75 Kim Pop f7B **  
76 Kim Pop Easy f6C ** 4
77 Apples f6A+ 2
78 Apples Right f6B+ * 2
  Yorke Prow
80 Obvious Tooth f5+ 2
  Folly Prow
82 Bilberry Bypass f6C * 1
  Diamond Crack
84 Golden Axe f7A+ 1
85 A Little Sparkle f7A ** 24
  Quarry
87 Jaws f7C 2
  Being Sorted

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