Climbs 121
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 274m a.s.l
Faces N

Anyone know what this is? © Carless

Crag features

Some fine rock with truly impressive climbs that follow strong features. Unfortunately it rises from a jungle/jumble of overgrown boulders. Once acquainted with the crag, the cognoscenti will know where to approach their chosen route by abseil. Persevere and you will be rewarded!

Access Advice

No access issues reported in recent years.

Visited today and did Comet Wall which needed no cleaning (start from the cave after scramble approach). Also Double Top which also needed no cleaning and is a classic brawl to top out (E1 5b probably). Went to finish up on Magnificat which was a bit grubbier but still climable (probably more like E1, its tough!) if you take the right route, unlike me.
Will Hunt - 16/May/14
Went for an explore today, and was pleasantly surprised. Given the poor reputation of the place, much of it looked fairly clean. North Buttress (which is probably where most people head for first) is by far the dirtiest, wettest, most vegetated of the main buttresses. I started at the far end. No 2 buttress looked particularly good (note, contrary to what the book says it is NOT directly below the mast, but a few hundred metres west (as per the sketch map). Roc's Nest Chimney on No 4 looked inviting, though appears to have nesting kestrels (or similar) at the moment. Hawk Slab (starred Severe on No 5) was invisible behind the vegetation, but the routes between Jezebel and Boundary Chimney all looked good and clean. I walked along the bottom of the crag, for its full length. From No 1 Buttress to the start of Long Wall, the going is mostly quite straightforward, though you have to watch out for big holes in places. From there to North Buttress Block was much less pleasant, but the final section to North Buttress is easy, with a well-worn path. I was on my own so just soloed 1.5 Diffs, but will definitely be back for more.
Simon Caldwell - 24/Jul/10
Very overgrown at the moment, making it difficult to find the top of routes, and to then probably climb them. Would give it a miss until Autumn ..... or spring!
Matt Bill Platypus - 28/Jul/08
Really only suitable for adventure botanists. The path below the crag is an adventure in itself. The crag could do with a clean-up and a lot more traffic but the north facing nature of it means that this is unlikely. Shame really, nice-looking climbs, lots of them and tall.
heidavey - 12/May/08
Sadly, this is not a good crag. Even the 3 star HVSs are sprouting heather all over the place, and seem to remain wet in places even after a long dry spell. The abseil descent necessary for many of the routes doesn't help either as you will probably find yourself committed to fighting your way back up something anyway. Insteading of heading here go to Eavestone, which is similar and nearby, but infinitely better.
jamiemoss - 12/Jun/06
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Number One Butress 
2The Verger
E1 5c **1
3Pulpit ChimneyVD 2
HVS 5a ***3
 Number Two Buttress 
6Letterbox Climb
D 2
HVS 5a *3
8The CreationE2 5c ***7
9BarleycornE3 5b  
10On the EdgeE6 6b *** 
11The Climb That Time ForgotE8 6c ** 
HS 4b *1
13AftermathE5 5c ***3
14Doomed OasisE6 6b **3
15Wild AbandonE5 6b **1
16Hook Route
E1 5b *4
 Number Three Buttress 
18Tree Cracks
S 3
19Buttress Route
VD *9
20ClodhopperHS 4c 1
VS 4c *4
22PendulumE1 5b *1
23Foreign BodiesE2 5c  
24StretcherE1 5b 1
 Number Four Buttress 
S 1
27Kandahar Groove
S 1
28Roc's Nest Chimney
HS **7
MVS 4b 1
 Number Five Buttress 
31Hawk Slab
S 2
E1 5b *1
VS 4c 1
E2 5c **1
HS 4b 2
S 4a 2
E2 5c *2
38Phillipa's Ridge
VS 4c 1
 Comet Buttress 
40North Wall Eliminate
HVS 5a **13
41MastermindE4 5c ***2
42The ScrykingE5 6a 1
43Comet WallHVS 5a *11
44The Comet's TrailE1 5b **2
45ScissorsD 2
 The Long Wall 
47Savage Sentence
E1 5b *1
48HaberdasheryE2 6a 2
49The Flintstone PinchE4 6a **2
50The Warriors of Hanuman
E5 6b *** 
51The SlotS 4a 1
HVS 5a **1
53Shelter Climb
D 2
 Needle's High Buttress 
55Ledge and Crack
D 1
 North Buttress Block 
57Double Top
HVS 5a 3
58SpeedwayVS 4c 1
 North Buttress 
60Thin Man's Delight
S 1
61Midsummer Night's Dream
HVS 5b *1
62Caveman's Corner
S 1
63North Buttress Crack
HS 2
64North Buttress OrdinaryS *1
65North Buttress Direct
HVS 5a 3
66Spring Fever
VS 4c 1
HVS 5b 1
E2 5c **1
 ***** Guisecliff Bouldering ***** 
 The Mop Top Bloc 
71Mop Top Pebbles leftf6A 4
72Mop Top Pebbles Rightf6B 3
73Mop Top Arete Leftf6A 13
74Mop Top Arete Rightf6A 15
75Kim Popf7B ** 
76Kim Pop Easyf6C **4
77Applesf6A+ 2
78Apples Rightf6B+ *2
 Yorke Prow 
80Obvious Toothf5+ 2
 Folly Prow 
82Bilberry Bypassf6C *1
 Diamond Crack 
84A Little Sparklef7A **24
 Being Sorted 

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