Climbs 100
Rocktype Grit (quarried)
Altitude 260m a.s.l
Faces SW

Jason Pickles leads the classic Fork Lightening Crack, E2 5c, Heptonstall Quarry. © Alastair Lee

Crag features

I have climbed a low traverse of the whole quarry from right to left called Technical Dancer Font 7A+ V7. A video of it is on Youtube under Heptonstall bouldering. John Wilson.

Approach notes

You can also get to the rocks from walking through the woods from bank foot - emerge from behind the houses at the bottom of the hill. Just follow the windy path up and it runs below the right hand outcrop on the main quarry.

Guidebooks

Northern England

The book is a selected route and crag guide although it still manages to pack over 2350 routes between its covers, spread across 44 crags. The main focus is on routes of all grades from Moderate to E9, but the best bouldering is also described.
More info
More Guidebooks:

Out of print:
Would it be worth putting some information regarding the crag on it's Crag Features section on the homepage? Right now it's just someone promoting their youtube video.
Steve Perry - 29/Aug/16
Sorry to post this on here, but thought it was best to warn people. Had my bag taken at the outcrop this evening. Gear appeared in the woods, obviously just wanted to money and bank card. Watch out and stay alert.
HannahGo - 17/Jun/16
A lovely spot on a summer's evening.
Becks87 - 28/Jun/15
An good spot with enjoyable climbs, its regularly climbed unlike many of the smaller quarrys in the area making the rock itself relatively clean.
agolay - 20/Sep/10
The directions in the Yorkshire Grit guide are a bit confusing - don't take the narrow 'walled path' next to the entrance to the social club car park, as this adds an extra 15 mins walkin! The crag is actually only a few mins from the car park - take the wider 'walled lane' opposite the car park, then turn left through the new housing estate to bring you to stone steps leading down to the crag.
Nick Smith - UKC - 04/Jun/06
hi,Its a worthwhile crag with good bouldering.
Geraldine Taylor - 07/Feb/03
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Nameless
-
VD * 24
2 Lumber Vertebrae VS 4c ** 48
3 Short Back and Sides
-
E2 5c * 3
4 Curving Crack VS 4c * 283
5 Main Line
-
VS 146
6 Vertical Speed E7 6c * 3
7 Hard Line E5 6b * 11
8 Thin Red Line E1 5b *** 294
9 Demerara E4 6a * 47
10 Brown Sugar E2 5c * 68
11 Pulpit Route HVS 5a ** 83
12 The Blue Bus
-
E6 6b *  
13 A Step in the Light Green E6 6b ** 18
14 Orange Crush E6 6b * 6
15 Cream E4 6a * 10
16 Sunstroke Slab
-
HS 4b * 46
17 Trepidation VS 4c * 89
18 Fairy Steps Direct VS 4c ** 206
19 Fairy Steps HS 4b *** 332
20 Forked Lightning Crack E2 5c *** 205
21 Bull's Crack HVS 5a *** 353
22 Senility HVS 5b * 237
23 Heatwave
-
E2 5b ** 9
24 Triplex Direct
-
E1 5b * 29
25 Out on a Limb
-
E3 5c ** 3
26 Trespasser
-
E2 5c * 1
27 The Left Arete
-
HS 4b * 42
28 Dog with Two tails
-
HVS 5a * 30
29 Pocket Wall
-
VS 4b * 86
30 The Knight Bus E4 5c ** 1
31 Interlude HS 4a 22
32 The Mitre
-
S 59
33 Mille Feuille
-
MVS 4c 83
34 The Chimney
-
VD 58
35 Kassi
-
MVS 4b 17
36 Scorpion
-
S 16
37 Grindleys Grunt HVS 5b 42
38 Sentinel Crack
-
HVD 50
39 sentinel wall HVS 41
40 peepod
-
D 43
41 Nutian Jamb
-
HVD 18
42 Afro With a Chin Strap
-
HVS 5c 8
43 Miss Rags-Tantric Mistress Of Mazland
-
E4 6b 14
44 Haboob
-
HS 20
45 The Corner
-
HVD 39
46 anti cyclone E5 6b * 1
47 Badge Climb
-
VD 43
48 Main Buttress
-
HD 36
49 Scarab
-
S 32
50 Descent Chimney
-
M 27
51 Coat of Arms Chimney
-
D 20
52 demerera
-
E4 6a ** 3
53 Windsong VS 4c 5
54 Hesperus S 3
55 Sue
-
VS 4c 5
56 Main Buttress Arete HVD 3
57 Boo Boo's Roof E2 6b * 2
58 Columbus
-
VS * 6
59 Technical Dancer V7 6c ** 4
60 Stranger In The Woods
-
HVS 5a * 10
61 Pulpit Route Direct
-
E1 5c 3
62 ScarFace V6 6b 3
63 Monkey Puzzle HVS 5a 13
64 Fraternity S 3
65 Midnight Lightning
-
E5 6b * 2
66 Badlands E4 6b * 2
67 Poundstretcher E3 5c 2
68 Dogged Arete E1 5b ** 7
69 Pramface V4 6b * 4
70 Scarface Sit Start V5 * 2
71 Scarface Extention V6 * 3
72 Heather Wall VS 4c 5
73 Scar Chips V6 * 3
74 Spamface V6 6b * 3
75 Spamface Extention V6 6b * 2
76 Scar Chips Extention V7 * 2
77 Scared Lip V7 * 1
78 Strange Brew E2 5c 1
79 Grindleys Senile Bul VS 4c/5a 2
80 The Fork n Sheet Finish E2 5c 3
81 Back 2 Thoracic Park HVS 5b 3
82 I meet men on the internet VS 5b 3
83 Shadowline E6 6b ** 1
84 Agent Orange E6 6a ** 2
85 NVQ 2 * VD 4
86 Holdless * E4 6a * 2
87 Just Jump E4 6b 1
88 No Safely or Surprise E5 6b * 1
89 Big Ben E3 5c  
90 Strangers in the night (Heptonstall)
-
HVS 1
91 Heppy Traverse f7A 5
92 Serenity heptonstall
-
HVS  
93 Lefty
-
f5+ 2
94 Middle Ground
-
f5+ 3
95 The Benefits of a Blinkered Mind VS 5a 1
96 Anticyclone * E4 6b * 3
97 I Chose not to Choose Life * E1 6a *  
98 Choose Life * E1 5b  
99 The real scarface * f7A 1
100 Skullduggery * E3 6a ** 2
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Ozi