Climbs 328
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 250m a.s.l
Faces N

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Tim on Cow Udder (E1 5a) at Ilkley, Yorkshire © Jamie Moss

Crag features

Notable for New Statesman (E8 7a) which takes the compelling arete, but if you're not feeling up to that there are plenty of routes to entertain. Wellington Crack (E4 5c) is fun too.

Bouldering

CD = Cameron Duff

TC = Total Climbing

Approach notes

Car Park 100m from the rocks. Bus and train to Ilkley approx. 3 km away - allow 40 min for the walk. Get off at Ben Rhydding for a shorter walk to the crag - 15 mins if you're a quick walker - up the obvious path through the small wood.

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Guidebooks

Northern England

The book is a selected route and crag guide although it still manages to pack over 2350 routes between its covers, spread across 44 crags. The main focus is on routes of all grades from Moderate to E9, but the best bouldering is also described.
More info
I love this place, its got it all. It is windy and cold and close to the car park and everything!
hop360 - 15/Jul/08
Been a few times, but today was great. Midweek, no crowds, warm weather, couple of other climbers, Walewska, Peg Crack, Blucher, Josephine Superdirect, Letterbox Crack all led. A great place for a quick fix of climbing.
Crofty - 24/Jun/08
Sorry what I meant to say,is it is the best crag in the world!.When you are bored with Ilkley you are bored with life!.
Huw - 05/Dec/05
Probably the best crag in the world.
Huw - 02/Nov/05
The bouldering on the back of the calf is very good in my opinion. Very enjoyable if you like climbing on crimps/ pinches/ undercuts on overhanging terrain. A bit of polish, but nothing compared to places like almscliffe... and the problems are mainly eliminates, so a guide is kinda useful. Lots of people walking around the place, but its nothing to cry about, most of them arent climbers and hence wont be top-roping anyway :). (Find something else to whine about :) )
Scott - 21/Aug/05
I'd rather have a few beginners on a crag than a whingeing twat with a made-up name like 'salamanda' !
matt - 24/Jun/05
Some excellent climbing spoiled by hordes of day trippers hence noise, and loads of top-roping beginner parties hence polish. The sight of hundreds of pairs of trainers scuppering helplessly across crucial small holds will make you cringe.
Salamanda - 25/Jul/04
Polished, but good climbing to be had
mick whiteoak - 31/May/04
If u want to get to grips with grit there are few better places than Ilkley. If ur doing ur first lead or E7 there is something there for u and one of the best walls of VS climbs anywhere. S Crack and Walewska are worth the trip alone - just hope u find somewhere to park when the weather is good
howard - 14/Mar/02
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  *** ROUTES ***
  Doris Buttress
3 Vital Spark
-
S 15
4 Sinister Cracks VD 140
5 Sinister Rib E3 5b * 72
6 Blackball E3 5c * 27
7 Doris S 3c ** 226
8 Bald Pate E1 5a * 28
9 Bald Pate Direct Start E2 5b ** 10
10 Doris Direct
-
E4 7a ** 1
11 Bald Pate Super Direct E6 6c *  
12 Deathwatch E7 6b * 34
13 Little Kaiser
-
HS 4b 18
14 Grand as Owt E3 6a 1
15 Where Blue Tits Dare
-
E4 6b  
16 Serendipity E2 5b * 22
17 Piton Wall HVS 5a ** 66
18 Transparent Wall HVS 5a ** 151
19 Sticky Fingers E2 5c * 41
20 Magic Pie
-
HS 4b 8
21 Left of Dredd S 4a * 1
22 Desperate Dredd (Left Slab Variation) E3 5c  
23 Desperate Dredd E4 6a 10
  The Quarry
25 Highfield Corner HVS 5a 24
26 Nailbite VD * 435
27 Central Wall E1 5b 15
28 Central Rib
-
HVS 5a 7
29 Sand Chimney VD * 93
30 Wellington Chimney
-
D * 31
31 Demolition Derby HS 4a 15
32 Overhanging Blocks
-
HVS 5a 3
33 The Stomach Traverse
-
HS 4a 8
34 Wellington Crack E4 5c *** 133
35 Loaded E8 7a * 1
36 Snap Decision E7 6c ** 12
37 Shadowlands
-
MS 22
38 Jiggery Not Pokery HVS 5b 3
39 Curving Cracks VS 5a * 233
40 Gibbon's Wall HS 4c 63
41 High Street E3 5c ** 22
42 Curving Corner HVS 5b 24
43 Letter Box Crack HS 4b 95
44 Peg Wall f6B+ 41
45 Peg Crack HVS 5a * 335
46 Corner And Scoop
-
HS 4a 26
47 Quatre Bras E1 5b * 2
48 The Maid of Wakefield E4 6b * 1
49 Guillotine E6 * 32
50 Big Bud E6 6c 1
51 Unexpected Journey
-
E6 6b *  
52 Thompson's Crack VS 4c ** 15
53 Into The Great Wide Open E4 5c 3
54 Propeller Wall E4 5c 18
55 Turboprop E5 6b 2
56 Old Crack VS 4b * 467
57 S Crack VS 4c *** 1147
58 Fairy Wall (S Crack Start) HVS 5a ** 20
59 Fairy Wall E2 5c 68
60 Fairy Steps HVD * 733
61 Fairy Steps (direct start)
-
MS * 152
62 V Chimney VS 5a 33
63 Cherry Valley Rib HVS 5a * 174
64 Josephine Super Direct VS 4b ** 503
65 Josephine Direct HS 4b * 201
66 Little John E1 5b 37
67 Short Circuit E2 5c * 96
68 Hipgnosis
-
E3 6b 1
69 Josephine HS 4b ** 568
70 The Girdle Traverse VS 4c ** 7
71 Napoleon VS 4c * 387
72 Blucher VS 4c * 452
73 Tufted Crack E1 5c ** 474
74 Waterloo
-
E3 6a 7
75 Walewska VS 4c *** 939
76 Walewska Variation
-
VS 5a ** 29
77 Josephine Traverse
-
HS 4b * 40
78 Warriors of the Wasteland/ Optimus Prime
-
E6 6b 4
79 Not Tonight Josephine
-
E3 6a 3
80 Botterill's Crack HVS 5a * 85
81 Flake Crack HS 4a * 499
82 Flake Crack Direct
-
E2 6a 22
83 Unknown HVD 10
84 Blocky Crack Left Of Unknown D  
  Central Area
86 Old Spice E2 5b * 50
87 Ladybird HVD * 154
88 Eastern Night
-
MS 22
89 Nightshade
-
HS 4b * 32
90 Dead Of Night
-
HVS 5a 5
91 Evening Wall
-
VS 4c * 33
92 Cold Chisel HS 4b 29
93 Chiseller S 4a * 373
94 Gaz S 4b 24
  The Cow
96 Cow Crack VD * 131
97 Cow Flap VS 5a 7
98 Cow Rib HVS 5a ** 37
99 A Climb S 4b *** 389
100 A Climb Alternative Finish
-
HVS 5b * 11
101 Ferdinand HS 4a ** 78
102 Ferdinand Hand Traverse
-
VS 4c 22
103 Voyage To The Outer Limits
-
E6 6b 1
104 Desperate Dan E6 6b ** 25
105 Cow Udder E1 5a * 140
106 Mad Dogs
-
E3 5c * 6
107 The Black and White Days
-
E5 6b *  
108 Gerty Berwick E9 7b ***  
109 The Lizard King E9 7a ** 1
110 The New Statesman E8 7a *** 8
111 Milky Way E6 6b *** 16
112 Mars Bar
-
E6 6c  
113 Galaxy
-
E6 6b * 1
114 Outspan
-
E6 6c  
115 The Marine Who Slept In E5 6a * 2
116 Fast Forward E6 6c ** 1
117 Hand Jive E2 5c * 3
118 The Sentinel
-
VD 24
  The Calf
120 The Early Starter f6B * 4
121 The Chipped Steps. M * 126
Climb name Grade
  Bowling Forre Boulders - (Western Buttresses)
123 In A Pickle
-
E6 6b 1
124 Captain B.O.'s Kiss Of Death
-
E3 6b  
125 Butch Crack
-
HVS 5b 1
126 Cassidy's Crawl
-
VS 5a * 2
127 Lost Boots
-
VS 4c * 62
128 Patience
-
HVS 5b * 33
129 Waiting Room
-
E2 6a 10
130 Little Hole
-
E2 6a 1
131 Big Hole E1 5c 19
132 Doing the Business
-
E3 6b *  
133 Green Chimney
-
HVS 5a 4
134 First Arete
-
E3 6b 9
135 Three Mantels S 7
136 Second Arete
-
VD 18
  Far Western Buttress
138 Olicana Crack
-
VS 5b 8
139 Romans Rib
-
E5 6c  
140 Carrie
-
E3 6a  
  Forgotten Buttress
142 Forgotten Buttress
-
S 4a 10
143 Double Crack
-
VD 12
144 Mantelshelf Arete
-
S 4a * 9
  *** BOULDERING ***
  CD Area 1 - Two Little Fins
147 CD 1 - Problem 1 V0 5a 2
148 CD 1 - Problem 4 V0 5a 1
149 CD 1 - Problem 7 VB 4b 2
  CD Area 2 - TC Area 1 - Bald Pate
151 CD 2 - Problem 5 V2 5c 2
152 Bald Pate Direct f7B 1
153 Magnetic Man Vibe f7C+  
  CD Area 3 - Square Face
155 CD 3 - Problem 3 V3 6a 3
156 CD 3 - Problem 4 V0 5b 5
157 CD 3 - Problem 5 V3 6a 2
158 CD 3 - Problem 6 V0- 5a 5
159 CD 3 - Problem 7 VB 4a 4
160 Nailbite
-
VB 7
161 CD 3 - Problem 9 V0 5b 3
162 CD 3 - Problem 10 V0- 5a 2
163 CD 3 - Problem 11 VB 4c 2
164 Square face traverse f5 1
165 CD 3 Problem 1 f6B 1
166 CD 3 Problem 2 f5 1
  Square Face Eliminates
168 Problem 1 - Square Face Eliminates
-
V1 5b 9
169 Problem 5 - Square Face Eliminates
-
V1 5c 7
170 Square Face Dyno f5+ 3
171 Undercuts f6B+ 3
172 All In f5+ 3
  CD Area 4 - Letterbox Crack
174 Peg Wall Eliminate V6 6b 1
  CD Area 5 - TC Area 9 b - Short Circuit
176 Ground Crew f4+ 1
177 Other Ranks f5+ 2
178 Other Ranks Eliminate I f6A * 2
179 Other Ranks Eliminate II f6A * 1
180 S Crack to Fairy Steps Traverse V2 5c 12
181 S Crack Slap f6C+ 7
182 Little John Direct f6C * 19
183 Short Circuit f6A 56
184 Low Traverse
-
V7 1
  CD Area 6 - TC Area 9b - Earwig Rib
186 Spider Wall f6A 59
187 Earwig Rib f6B * 49
188 Earwig Rib SD
-
f7A+ * 10
189 CD area 6 Problem 7 f4 2
190 CD area 6 problem 8 f4 1
191 Earwig area traverse. CD area 6 P 12 f6B+ 3
  CD Area 7 - TC Area 2 & 3c - The Cindy Crawford Workout
  Warm Up Slab
194 Introductory Slab f2 * 4
  First Slab
196 First Slab
-
f4+ 4
197 Second Slab
-
f4+ 6
  Mars Bar
199 Slab Layback
-
f4+ 3
200 CD 7 - Problem 12 f6B 6b 1
201 Biter f6C 1
202 King Size Mars Bar f5 1
  Fat Sloper
204 Top Slab f4+ 1
205 Slab Traverse f6A 1
206 Fat Sloper f6B  
  Black Porsche
208 Block Arete
-
V8+  
209 Block Centre
-
V8+ 1
210 Corner Slab f2+ 2
  Tall Thin Slab
212 CD 7 - Problem 15 f4+ 13
213 Slab Direct f6C 7
214 Flake Indirect f6B 4
215 Gully Wall f6B+ * 10
216 Hanging Arete f6A+ 3
217 Slab direct eliminate f7A+ 2
  Mantel
219 Mantel f6A+ 3
220 Low Block Left f5 1
221 Low Block Traverse f6B+  
222 Low Block Right f6A 1
  CD Area 8 - Tc Area 3 a & b - Baby Spice
224 CD 8 - Problem 1 f4 3
225 Old Spice f5 2
226 Baby Spice f7A+ * 20
227 Ron's Traverse f7A * 26
228 CD 8 - Problem 13 VB 4a 10
229 Dusky f4 7
  CD Area 9 - Left Side of The Cow
231 CD 9 - Problem 8 VB 5b 1
232 CD 9 - Problem 9 V3 6a * 1
233 Slopers f5+ 1
234 CD 9 - Problem 13 V2 6a 1
235 Bah'tat Traverse f6C 2
  CD Area 10 - TC Area 4 - The Calf
237 Yorkshire Grit - Problem 4 - The Calf V8 6c * 3
238 Bonnington's Book Problem f5 ** 24
239 Car Park Traverse V6 1
240 Calf Slopers
-
V6 1
241 Car Park Crack f5+ ** 57
242 Car Park Wall f7A+ 3
243 Super Set Traverse V10  
Climb name Grade
244 Super Set f7C+ * 11
245 The Hiest f7A+  
246 Facet Wall f6C * 14
247 The Easy Way V1 5c ** 12
248 Calf Arete
-
f2 4
249 Under the Stairs f5 17
250 CD 10 - Problem 19 V7 6c 4
251 The Ring f5+ * 30
252 The Ring Eliminate f6A 6
253 Ringpiece f7C ** 77
254 Late Fever f7B+ 1
255 CD 10 - Problem 22
-
V0 5a 2
256 Pebble Groove f5 *** 54
257 Pebble Dash f8A *** 1
  The Back of The Calf (TC Area 4b)
259 Calf Dyno f5 ** 123
260 Three More Reps f7B+ * 3
261 The Mid-Height Traverse f7B+ *** 5
262 Greasy Leopard
-
f8A+  
263 Piccachu Challenge
-
f7C+ * 1
264 Almost Pleasant
-
f6C+ ** 31
265 TC Area 4b Problem 5 f7B 8
266 Bernie The Bolt f7C ** 5
267 The Pinch V8 ** 5
268 Al's Problem V9 6c  
269 Back of the Calf - Problem 15
-
V6 * 2
270 Back of the Calf - Problem 16
-
V5 6b * 8
271 Back of The Calf - Problem 17
-
V6 6b 6
272 Back of the Calf - Problem 18 f7C ** 1
273 Back of the Calf - Problem 19 V6 6b 2
274 Back of the Calf - Problem 26 V8 1
275 Cindy Crawford f7B+ *** 6
276 Classic Calf V8 10
277 Gnome f6B * 34
  CD Area 11 - The Sentinel
279 Alan B'stard f7A+ 2
280 CD 11 - Problem 2 V0- 4a 1
281 CD 11 - Problem 8 V3 6a 1
282 CD 11 - Problem 9 V0 5a 1
283 CD 11 - Problem 10 V0 5a+ 1
284 CD 11 - Problem 11 V0 5a+ 1
285 CD 11 - Problem 12 VB 5a 1
286 CD 11 - Problem 13 VB 4c 1
  CD Area 12 - TC Area 5 - Ian's Roof (Bowling Forre Boulders)
288 J.B f7B  
289 Bouling Forre Arete SDS
-
f7C 1
290 Forre Roof V5  
291 Ian's Roof f7B+  
292 Nice and Fricious V7 1
293 CD 12 - Problem 1 VB 4a 1
294 CD 12 - Problem 3 V2 5c 1
295 CD 12 - Problem 4 VB 5a 1
296 CD 12 - Problem 5 VB 5a 1
297 CD 12 - Problem 6 VB 4a 1
298 CD 12 - Problem 8 VB 4b 1
299 CD 12 - Problem 15 V4 6a+ 1
300 CD 12 - Problem 18 V0 5b 1
301 CD 12 - Problem 20 VB 4b 1
  Yorkshire Grit Boulder
303 CD 12 - Problem 21 V1 5b 2
304 Robin
-
f6C 1
305 Arn f6A+ 1
306 Chef Recommends f7A * 3
307 CD 12 - Problem 23 V2 5c 2
308 CD 12 - Problem 24 V1 5b+ 2
  CD Area 13 - TC Area 6 - Lost Boots
310 CD 13 - Problem 1 VB 4b 9
311 CD 13 - Problem 2 VB 4a 7
312 CD 13 - Problem 3 VB 4b 7
313 CD 13 - Problem 4 VB 4b 9
314 Losing Patience - CD 13 - Problem 9 f6C * 10
315 Lost Boys
-
f6C+ 3
316 Little Hole V6 2
317 Big hole f5+ 5
318 Eliminate Traverse f7B 1
319 Patience f5 15
320 CD 13 - Problem 12
-
V0 5a+ 6
321 CD 13 - Problem 13 V4 6b 7
322 First Things First f7A+ *** 9
323 First Arete
-
f7A+ * 22
324 I Am Curious Yellow
-
f7C+ *** 6
325 I Am Curious Yellow Right-Hand
-
V12  
326 I Am Curious Yellow SS
-
V11  
  CD Area 14 - Under Lost Boots
328 Slab Left Wall f4+ 2
329 Slab Nose
-
f4+ 15
330 Slab Trav f6B+ 14
331 Slab Centre f5+ 10
332 Slab Right
-
f4 18
333 CD 14 - Problem 5
-
VB 4a 4
334 CD 14 - Problem 5a V1 5a/b 4
335 Gully Traverse f6A+ * 14
336 Bee Gully f5  
337 Cee Gully f6A  
  CD Area 15 - TC Area 7 - Olicana Buttress
339 Squeeky Pop V9  
340 Olicana Arete f7A 48
341 Octavia Minor V5 1
342 Agricola
-
f6C 4
343 R.E.
-
f7C 2
344 The Easy Crew
-
f5 6
345 Spartacus
-
f6C * 13
346 Constantine
-
f6C 5
347 Maximus Aurelius V5+ 1
348 The Brute f7B+ 1
349 Boudicca f7A+ 15
350 Ming f7B+ 1
351 Dunromin V5+ 1
352 Chariots of Fire f6C 7
353 Chariots Of Fire Eliminate f7B+ * 6
  Forgotten Buttress
355 Triceratops f4 * 3
  Unconfirmed Climbs
357 Little Cow
-
VD 1
358 Tramline MVS 4b 1
  Routes Added from Rockfax Book
360 Double Top Side f5 1
361 Double Top Side Eliminate f5+ 1
362 Double Top f5 1
363 Double Top Arete f5+ * 1
364 Easy Fin f4+ 1
365 Parkour Boys f6A * 1
366 CD 4 sitter f4+ * 1

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