Climbs 285
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 250m a.s.l
Faces N

Tim on Cow Udder (E1 5a) at Ilkley, Yorkshire © Jamie Moss

Crag features

Notable for New Statesman (E8 7a) which takes the compelling arete, but if you're not feeling up to that there are plenty of routes to entertain. Wellington Crack (E4 5c) is fun too.

Bouldering

CD = Cameron Duff

TC = Total Climbing

Approach notes

Car Park 100m from the rocks. Bus and train to Ilkley approx. 3 km away - allow 40 min for the walk. Get off at Ben Rhydding for a shorter walk to the crag - 15 mins if you're a quick walker - up the obvious path through the small wood.

Guidebooks

Northern England

The book is a selected route and crag guide although it still manages to pack over 2350 routes between its covers, spread across 44 crags. The main focus is on routes of all grades from Moderate to E9, but the best bouldering is also described.
More info
I love this place, its got it all. It is windy and cold and close to the car park and everything!
hop360 - 15/Jul/08
Been a few times, but today was great. Midweek, no crowds, warm weather, couple of other climbers, Walewska, Peg Crack, Blucher, Josephine Superdirect, Letterbox Crack all led. A great place for a quick fix of climbing.
Crofty - 24/Jun/08
Sorry what I meant to say,is it is the best crag in the world!.When you are bored with Ilkley you are bored with life!.
Huw - 05/Dec/05
Probably the best crag in the world.
Huw - 02/Nov/05
The bouldering on the back of the calf is very good in my opinion. Very enjoyable if you like climbing on crimps/ pinches/ undercuts on overhanging terrain. A bit of polish, but nothing compared to places like almscliffe... and the problems are mainly eliminates, so a guide is kinda useful. Lots of people walking around the place, but its nothing to cry about, most of them arent climbers and hence wont be top-roping anyway :). (Find something else to whine about :) )
Scott - 21/Aug/05
I'd rather have a few beginners on a crag than a whingeing twat with a made-up name like 'salamanda' !
matt - 24/Jun/05
Some excellent climbing spoiled by hordes of day trippers hence noise, and loads of top-roping beginner parties hence polish. The sight of hundreds of pairs of trainers scuppering helplessly across crucial small holds will make you cringe.
Salamanda - 25/Jul/04
Polished, but good climbing to be had
mick whiteoak - 31/May/04
If u want to get to grips with grit there are few better places than Ilkley. If ur doing ur first lead or E7 there is something there for u and one of the best walls of VS climbs anywhere. S Crack and Walewska are worth the trip alone - just hope u find somewhere to park when the weather is good
howard - 14/Mar/02
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  *** ROUTES ***
  Doris Buttress
3 Vital Spark
-
S 14
4 Sinister Cracks VD 125
5 Sinister Rib E3 5b * 68
6 Blackball E3 5c * 26
7 Doris S 3c ** 212
8 Bald Pate E1 5a * 26
9 Doris Direct
-
E4 7a ** 1
10 Bald Pate Super Direct E6 6c *  
11 Bald Pate Direct Start E2 5b ** 10
12 Deathwatch E7 6b * 29
13 Little Kaiser
-
HS 4b 17
14 Grand as Owt E3 6a 1
15 Where Blue Tits Dare
-
E4 6b  
16 Serendipity E2 5b * 18
17 Piton Wall HVS 5a ** 57
18 Transparent Wall HVS 5a ** 139
19 Sticky Fingers E2 5c * 36
20 Magic Pie
-
HS 4b 6
21 Desperate Dredd (Left Slab Variation) E3 5c  
22 Desperate Dredd E4 6a 7
  The Quarry
24 Highfield Corner HVS 5a 18
25 Nailbite VD * 385
26 Central Wall E1 5b 14
27 Central Rib
-
HVS 5a 6
28 Sand Chimney VD * 78
29 Wellington Chimney
-
D * 29
30 Demolition Derby HS 4a 12
31 Overhanging Blocks
-
HVS 5a 3
32 The Stomach Traverse
-
HS 4a 7
33 Wellington Crack E4 5c *** 168
34 Loaded E8 7a * 1
35 Snap Decision E7 6c ** 9
36 Shadowlands
-
MS 20
37 Jiggery Not Pokery HVS 5b 3
38 Curving Cracks VS 5a * 200
39 Gibbon's Wall HS 4c 60
40 High Street E3 5c ** 20
41 Curving Corner HVS 5b 20
42 Letter Box Crack HS 4b 81
43 Peg Wall f6B+ 39
44 Peg Crack HVS 5a * 296
45 Corner And Scoop
-
HS 4a 19
46 Quatre Bras E1 5b * 2
47 The Maid of Wakefield E4 6b * 1
48 Guillotine E6 * 28
49 Big Bud E6 6c 1
50 Unexpected Journey
-
E6 6b *  
51 Thompson's Crack VS 4c ** 14
52 Into The Great Wide Open E4 5c 3
53 Propeller Wall E4 5c 16
54 Turboprop E5 6b 2
55 Old Crack VS 4b * 375
56 S Crack VS 4c *** 947
57 Fairy Wall (S Crack Start) HVS 5a ** 14
58 Fairy Wall E2 5c 66
59 Fairy Steps HVD * 643
60 Fairy Steps (direct start)
-
MS * 138
61 V Chimney VS 5a 28
62 Cherry Valley Rib HVS 5a * 143
63 Josephine Super Direct VS 4b ** 431
64 Josephine Direct HS 4b * 179
65 Little John E1 5b 39
66 Short Circuit E2 5c * 91
67 Hipgnosis
-
E3 6b 1
68 Josephine HS 4b ** 469
69 The Girdle Traverse VS 4c ** 4
70 Napoleon VS 4c * 314
71 Blucher VS 4c * 369
72 Tufted Crack E1 5c ** 425
73 Waterloo
-
E2 6a 5
74 Walewska VS 4c *** 783
75 Walewska Variation
-
VS 5a ** 25
76 Josephine Traverse
-
HS 4b * 35
77 Warriors of the Wasteland
-
E6 6b 1
78 Not Tonight Josephine
-
E3 6a 3
79 Optimus Prime E5 6b 1
80 Botterill's Crack HVS 5a * 74
81 Flake Crack HS 4a * 418
82 Flake Crack Direct
-
E2 6a 22
83 Unknown HVD 6
  Central Area
85 Old Spice E2 5b * 49
86 Ladybird HVD * 137
87 Eastern Night
-
MS 22
88 Nightshade
-
HS 4b * 31
89 Dead Of Night
-
HVS 5a 5
90 Evening Wall
-
VS 4c * 31
91 Cold Chisel HS 4b 27
92 Chiseller S 4a * 317
93 Gaz S 4b 22
  The Cow
95 Cow Crack VD * 102
96 Cow Flap VS 5a 6
97 Cow Rib HVS 5a ** 23
98 A Climb S 4b *** 359
99 A Climb Alternative Finish
-
HVS 5b * 7
100 Ferdinand HS 4a ** 63
101 Ferdinand Hand Traverse
-
VS 4c 19
102 Voyage To The Outer Limits
-
E6 6b 1
103 Desperate Dan E6 6b ** 12
104 Cow Udder E1 5a * 133
105 Mad Dogs
-
E3 5c * 6
106 The Black and White Days
-
E5 6b *  
107 Gerty Berwick E9 7b ***  
108 The Lizard King E9 7a ** 1
109 The New Statesman E8 7a *** 7
110 Milky Way E6 6b *** 12
111 Mars Bar
-
E6 6c  
112 Galaxy
-
E6 6b * 1
113 Outspan
-
E6 6c  
114 The Marine Who Slept In E5 6a * 2
115 Fast Forward E6 6c ** 1
116 Hand Jive E2 5c * 3
117 The Sentinel
-
VD 23
  The Calf
119 The Early Starter f6B * 4
120 The Chipped Steps. M * 105
  Bowling Forre Boulders - (Western Buttresses)
122 In A Pickle
-
E6 6b 1
123 Captain B.O.'s Kiss Of Death
-
E3 6b  
124 Butch Crack
-
HVS 5b 1
125 Cassidy's Crawl
-
VS 5a * 1
126 Lost Boots
-
VS 4c * 50
127 Patience
-
HVS 5b * 27
128 Waiting Room
-
E2 6a 7
129 Little Hole
-
E2 6a  
130 Big Hole E1 5c 16
131 Doing the Business
-
E3 6b *  
132 Green Chimney
-
HVS 5a 3
133 First Arete
-
E3 6b 9
134 Three Mantels S 6
135 Second Arete
-
VD 17
  Far Western Buttress
137 Olicana Crack
-
VS 5b 5
138 Romans Rib
-
E5 6c  
139 Carrie
-
E3 6a  
  Forgotten Buttress
141 Forgotten Buttress
-
S 4a 10
142 Double Crack
-
VD 12
143 Mantelshelf Arete
-
S 4a * 9
  *** BOULDERING ***
  CD Area 1 - Two Little Fins
146 CD 1 - Problem 1 V0 5a 2
147 CD 1 - Problem 4 V0 5a 1
148 CD 1 - Problem 7 VB 4b 2
  CD Area 2 - TC Area 1 - Bald Pate
150 CD 2 - Problem 5 V2 5c 1
  CD Area 3 - Square Face
152 CD 3 - Problem 3 V3 6a 1
153 CD 3 - Problem 4 V0 5b 4
154 CD 3 - Problem 5 V3 6a 1
155 CD 3 - Problem 6 V0- 5a 4
156 CD 3 - Problem 7 VB 4a 3
157 Nailbite
-
VB 6
158 CD 3 - Problem 9 V0 5b 2
159 CD 3 - Problem 10 V0- 5a 1
160 CD 3 - Problem 11 VB 4c 1
  Square Face Eliminates
162 Problem 1 - Square Face Eliminates
-
V1 5b 5
163 Problem 5 - Square Face Eliminates
-
V1 5c 4
  CD Area 4 - Letterbox Crack
165 Peg Wall Eliminate V6 6b 1
  CD Area 5 - TC Area 9 b - Short Circuit
167 Ground Crew f4+ 1
168 Other Ranks f5+ 1
169 Other Ranks Eliminate I f6A * 1
170 Other Ranks Eliminate II f6A * 1
171 S Crack to Fairy Steps Traverse V2 5c 9
172 S Crack Slap f6C+ 5
173 Little John Direct f6C * 15
174 Short Circuit f6A 46
  CD Area 6 - TC Area 9b - Earwig Rib
176 Spider Wall f6A 52
177 Earwig Rib f6B * 42
178 Earwig Rib SD
-
f7A+ * 7
  CD Area 7 - TC Area 2 & 3c - The Cindy Crawford Workout
  Warm Up Slab
181 Introductory Slab f2 * 2
  First Slab
183 First Slab
-
f4+ 1
184 Second Slab
-
f4+ 2
  Mars Bar
186 Slab Layback
-
f4+ 3
187 CD 7 - Problem 12 f6B 6b 1
188 Biter f6C 1
189 King Size Mars Bar f5 1
  Fat Sloper
191 Top Slab f4+ 1
192 Slab Traverse f6A 1
193 Fat Sloper f6B  
  Black Porsche
195 Corner Slab f2+ 1
  Tall Thin Slab
197 CD 7 - Problem 15 f4+ 10
198 Slab Direct f6C 5
199 Flake Indirect f6B 4
200 Gully Wall f6B+ * 8
201 Hanging Arete f6A+ 1
  Mantel
203 Mantel f6A+  
204 Low Block Left f5  
205 Low Block Traverse f6B+  
206 Low Block Right f6A  
  CD Area 8 - Tc Area 3 a & b - Baby Spice
208 CD 8 - Problem 1 f4 2
209 Old Spice f5 2
210 Baby Spice f7A+ * 15
211 Ron's Traverse f7A * 21
212 CD 8 - Problem 13 VB 4a 9
213 Dusky f4 5
  CD Area 9 - Left Side of The Cow
215 CD 9 - Problem 8 VB 5b 1
216 CD 9 - Problem 9 V3 6a * 1
217 Slopers f5+ 1
218 CD 9 - Problem 13 V2 6a 1
219 Bah'tat Traverse f6C 1
  CD Area 10 - TC Area 4 - The Calf
221 Yorkshire Grit - Problem 4 - The Calf V8 6c * 3
222 Bonnington's Book Problem f5 ** 20
223 Car Park Crack f5+ ** 50
224 Car Park Wall Eliminate f7A+ 2
225 Super Set f7C+ * 7
226 The Hiest f7A+  
227 Facet Wall f6C * 11
228 The Easy Way V1 5c ** 11
229 Calf Arete
-
f2 4
230 Under the Stairs f5 16
231 CD 10 - Problem 19 V7 6c 3
232 The Ring f5+ * 25
233 The Ring Eliminate f6A 5
234 Ringpiece f7C ** 55
235 Late Fever f7B+  
236 CD 10 - Problem 22
-
V0 5a 2
237 Pebble Groove f5 *** 51
238 Pebble Dash f8A ***  
  The Back of The Calf (TC Area 4b)
240 Calf Dyno f5 ** 105
241 Three More Reps f7B+ * 3
242 The Mid-Height Traverse f7B+ *** 4
243 Piccachu Challenge
-
f7C+ * 1
244 Almost Pleasant
-
f6C+ ** 25
245 TC Area 4b Problem 5 f7B 4
246 Bernie The Bolt f7C ** 5
247 The Pinch V8 ** 1
248 Al's Problem V9 6c  
249 Back of the Calf - Problem 15
-
V6 * 1
250 Back of the Calf - Problem 16
-
V5 6b * 4
251 Back of The Calf - Problem 17
-
V6 6b 3
252 Back of the Calf - Problem 18 f7C ** 1
253 Back of the Calf - Problem 19 V6 6b 2
254 Back of the Calf - Problem 26 V8 1
255 Cindy Crawford f7B+ *** 9
256 Gnome f6B * 27
  CD Area 11 - The Sentinel
258 Alan B'stard f7A+ 1
259 CD 11 - Problem 2 V0- 4a 1
260 CD 11 - Problem 8 V3 6a 1
261 CD 11 - Problem 9 V0 5a 1
262 CD 11 - Problem 10 V0 5a+ 1
263 CD 11 - Problem 11 V0 5a+ 1
264 CD 11 - Problem 12 VB 5a 1
265 CD 11 - Problem 13 VB 4c 1
  CD Area 12 - TC Area 5 - Ian's Roof (Bowling Forre Boulders)
267 Ian's Roof f7B+  
268 CD 12 - Problem 1 VB 4a 1
269 CD 12 - Problem 3 V2 5c 1
270 CD 12 - Problem 4 VB 5a 1
271 CD 12 - Problem 5 VB 5a 1
272 CD 12 - Problem 6 VB 4a 1
273 CD 12 - Problem 8 VB 4b 1
274 CD 12 - Problem 15 V4 6a+ 1
275 CD 12 - Problem 18 V0 5b 1
276 CD 12 - Problem 20 VB 4b 1
  Yorkshire Grit Boulder
278 CD 12 - Problem 21 V1 5b 2
279 Robin
-
f6C 1
280 Arn f6A+ 1
281 Chef Recommends f7A * 2
282 CD 12 - Problem 23 V2 5c 2
283 CD 12 - Problem 24 V1 5b+ 2
  CD Area 13 - TC Area 6 - Lost Boots
285 CD 13 - Problem 1 VB 4b 6
286 CD 13 - Problem 2 VB 4a 5
287 CD 13 - Problem 3 VB 4b 4
288 CD 13 - Problem 4 VB 4b 6
289 Losing Patience - CD 13 - Problem 9 f6C * 6
290 Lost Boys
-
f6C+ 3
291 Eliminate Traverse f7B 1
292 Patience f5 10
293 CD 13 - Problem 12
-
V0 5a+ 5
294 CD 13 - Problem 13 V4 6b 6
295 First Things First f7A+ *** 7
296 First Arete
-
f7A+ * 11
297 I Am Curious Yellow
-
f7C+ *** 4
  CD Area 14 - Under Lost Boots
299 Slab Left Wall f4+ 1
300 Slab Nose
-
f4+ 7
301 Slab Trav f6B+ 7
302 Slab Centre f5+ 4
303 Slab Right
-
f4 10
304 CD 14 - Problem 5
-
VB 4a 4
305 CD 14 - Problem 5a V1 5a/b 3
306 Gully Traverse f6A+ * 8
307 Bee Gully f5  
308 Cee Gully f6A  
  CD Area 15 - TC Area 7 - Olicana Buttress
310 Olicana Arete f7A 34
311 Agricola
-
f6C 3
312 The Easy Crew
-
f5 5
313 Spartacus
-
f6C * 7
314 Constantine
-
f6C 2
315 Boudicca f7A+ 11
316 Chariots of Fire f6C 6
317 Chariots Of Fire Eliminate f7B+ * 4
  Forgotten Buttress
319 Triceratops f4 * 3
  Unconfirmed Climbs
321 Little Cow
-
VD 1
322 Tramline MVS 4b 1
  Routes Added from Rockfax Book

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