Climbs 325
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 250m a.s.l
Faces N

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Tim on Cow Udder (E1 5a) at Ilkley, Yorkshire © Jamie Moss

Crag features

Notable for New Statesman (E8 7a) which takes the compelling arete, but if you're not feeling up to that there are plenty of routes to entertain. Wellington Crack (E4 5c) is fun too.

Bouldering

CD = Cameron Duff

TC = Total Climbing

Approach notes

Car Park 100m from the rocks. Bus and train to Ilkley approx. 3 km away - allow 40 min for the walk. Get off at Ben Rhydding for a shorter walk to the crag - 15 mins if you're a quick walker - up the obvious path through the small wood.

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Guidebooks

Northern England

The book is a selected route and crag guide although it still manages to pack over 2350 routes between its covers, spread across 44 crags. The main focus is on routes of all grades from Moderate to E9, but the best bouldering is also described.
More info
I love this place, its got it all. It is windy and cold and close to the car park and everything!
hop360 - 15/Jul/08
Been a few times, but today was great. Midweek, no crowds, warm weather, couple of other climbers, Walewska, Peg Crack, Blucher, Josephine Superdirect, Letterbox Crack all led. A great place for a quick fix of climbing.
Crofty - 24/Jun/08
Sorry what I meant to say,is it is the best crag in the world!.When you are bored with Ilkley you are bored with life!.
Huw - 05/Dec/05
Probably the best crag in the world.
Huw - 02/Nov/05
The bouldering on the back of the calf is very good in my opinion. Very enjoyable if you like climbing on crimps/ pinches/ undercuts on overhanging terrain. A bit of polish, but nothing compared to places like almscliffe... and the problems are mainly eliminates, so a guide is kinda useful. Lots of people walking around the place, but its nothing to cry about, most of them arent climbers and hence wont be top-roping anyway :). (Find something else to whine about :) )
Scott - 21/Aug/05
I'd rather have a few beginners on a crag than a whingeing twat with a made-up name like 'salamanda' !
matt - 24/Jun/05
Some excellent climbing spoiled by hordes of day trippers hence noise, and loads of top-roping beginner parties hence polish. The sight of hundreds of pairs of trainers scuppering helplessly across crucial small holds will make you cringe.
Salamanda - 25/Jul/04
Polished, but good climbing to be had
mick whiteoak - 31/May/04
If u want to get to grips with grit there are few better places than Ilkley. If ur doing ur first lead or E7 there is something there for u and one of the best walls of VS climbs anywhere. S Crack and Walewska are worth the trip alone - just hope u find somewhere to park when the weather is good
howard - 14/Mar/02
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  *** ROUTES ***
  Doris Buttress
3 Vital Spark
-
S 15
4 Sinister Cracks VD 140
5 Sinister Rib E3 5b * 72
6 Blackball E3 5c * 27
7 Doris S 3c ** 225
8 Bald Pate E1 5a * 28
9 Bald Pate Direct Start E2 5b ** 9
10 Doris Direct
-
E4 7a ** 1
11 Bald Pate Super Direct E6 6c *  
12 Deathwatch E7 6b * 33
13 Little Kaiser
-
HS 4b 18
14 Grand as Owt E3 6a 1
15 Where Blue Tits Dare
-
E4 6b  
16 Serendipity E2 5b * 22
17 Piton Wall HVS 5a ** 65
18 Transparent Wall HVS 5a ** 150
19 Sticky Fingers E2 5c * 40
20 Magic Pie
-
HS 4b 8
21 Left of Dredd S 4a * 1
22 Desperate Dredd (Left Slab Variation) E3 5c  
23 Desperate Dredd E4 6a 8
  The Quarry
25 Highfield Corner HVS 5a 24
26 Nailbite VD * 434
27 Central Wall E1 5b 15
28 Central Rib
-
HVS 5a 7
29 Sand Chimney VD * 93
30 Wellington Chimney
-
D * 31
31 Demolition Derby HS 4a 15
32 Overhanging Blocks
-
HVS 5a 3
33 The Stomach Traverse
-
HS 4a 8
34 Wellington Crack E4 5c *** 130
35 Loaded E8 7a * 1
36 Snap Decision E7 6c ** 12
37 Shadowlands
-
MS 22
38 Jiggery Not Pokery HVS 5b 3
39 Curving Cracks VS 5a * 232
40 Gibbon's Wall HS 4c 62
41 High Street E3 5c ** 22
42 Curving Corner HVS 5b 24
43 Letter Box Crack HS 4b 94
44 Peg Wall f6B+ 40
45 Peg Crack HVS 5a * 333
46 Corner And Scoop
-
HS 4a 26
47 Quatre Bras E1 5b * 2
48 The Maid of Wakefield E4 6b * 1
49 Guillotine E6 * 31
50 Big Bud E6 6c 1
51 Unexpected Journey
-
E6 6b *  
52 Thompson's Crack VS 4c ** 15
53 Into The Great Wide Open E4 5c 3
54 Propeller Wall E4 5c 18
55 Turboprop E5 6b 2
56 Old Crack VS 4b * 467
57 S Crack VS 4c *** 1136
58 Fairy Wall (S Crack Start) HVS 5a ** 18
59 Fairy Wall E2 5c 68
60 Fairy Steps HVD * 724
61 Fairy Steps (direct start)
-
MS * 153
62 V Chimney VS 5a 32
63 Cherry Valley Rib HVS 5a * 174
64 Josephine Super Direct VS 4b ** 498
65 Josephine Direct HS 4b * 199
66 Little John E1 5b 37
67 Short Circuit E2 5c * 96
68 Hipgnosis
-
E3 6b 1
69 Josephine HS 4b ** 562
70 The Girdle Traverse VS 4c ** 7
71 Napoleon VS 4c * 380
72 Blucher VS 4c * 446
73 Tufted Crack E1 5c ** 470
74 Waterloo
-
E2 6a 6
75 Walewska VS 4c *** 932
76 Walewska Variation
-
VS 5a ** 29
77 Josephine Traverse
-
HS 4b * 40
78 Warriors of the Wasteland/ Optimus Prime
-
E6 6b 4
79 Not Tonight Josephine
-
E3 6a 3
80 Botterill's Crack HVS 5a * 85
81 Flake Crack HS 4a * 498
82 Flake Crack Direct
-
E2 6a 22
83 Unknown HVD 10
  Central Area
85 Old Spice E2 5b * 50
86 Ladybird HVD * 153
87 Eastern Night
-
MS 22
88 Nightshade
-
HS 4b * 32
89 Dead Of Night
-
HVS 5a 5
90 Evening Wall
-
VS 4c * 33
91 Cold Chisel HS 4b 29
92 Chiseller S 4a * 372
93 Gaz S 4b 24
  The Cow
95 Cow Crack VD * 130
96 Cow Flap VS 5a 7
97 Cow Rib HVS 5a ** 37
98 A Climb S 4b *** 386
99 A Climb Alternative Finish
-
HVS 5b * 11
100 Ferdinand HS 4a ** 78
101 Ferdinand Hand Traverse
-
VS 4c 22
102 Voyage To The Outer Limits
-
E6 6b 1
103 Desperate Dan E6 6b ** 18
104 Cow Udder E1 5a * 138
105 Mad Dogs
-
E3 5c * 6
106 The Black and White Days
-
E5 6b *  
107 Gerty Berwick E9 7b ***  
108 The Lizard King E9 7a ** 1
109 The New Statesman E8 7a *** 8
110 Milky Way E6 6b *** 15
111 Mars Bar
-
E6 6c  
112 Galaxy
-
E6 6b * 1
113 Outspan
-
E6 6c  
114 The Marine Who Slept In E5 6a * 2
115 Fast Forward E6 6c ** 1
116 Hand Jive E2 5c * 3
117 The Sentinel
-
VD 24
  The Calf
119 The Early Starter f6B * 4
120 The Chipped Steps. M * 124
Climb name Grade
  Bowling Forre Boulders - (Western Buttresses)
122 In A Pickle
-
E6 6b 1
123 Captain B.O.'s Kiss Of Death
-
E3 6b  
124 Butch Crack
-
HVS 5b 1
125 Cassidy's Crawl
-
VS 5a * 2
126 Lost Boots
-
VS 4c * 61
127 Patience
-
HVS 5b * 33
128 Waiting Room
-
E2 6a 10
129 Little Hole
-
E2 6a 1
130 Big Hole E1 5c 19
131 Doing the Business
-
E3 6b *  
132 Green Chimney
-
HVS 5a 4
133 First Arete
-
E3 6b 9
134 Three Mantels S 7
135 Second Arete
-
VD 17
  Far Western Buttress
137 Olicana Crack
-
VS 5b 8
138 Romans Rib
-
E5 6c  
139 Carrie
-
E3 6a  
  Forgotten Buttress
141 Forgotten Buttress
-
S 4a 10
142 Double Crack
-
VD 12
143 Mantelshelf Arete
-
S 4a * 9
  *** BOULDERING ***
  CD Area 1 - Two Little Fins
146 CD 1 - Problem 1 V0 5a 2
147 CD 1 - Problem 4 V0 5a 1
148 CD 1 - Problem 7 VB 4b 2
  CD Area 2 - TC Area 1 - Bald Pate
150 CD 2 - Problem 5 V2 5c 2
151 Bald Pate Direct f7B 1
152 Magnetic Man Vibe f7C+  
  CD Area 3 - Square Face
154 CD 3 - Problem 3 V3 6a 2
155 CD 3 - Problem 4 V0 5b 4
156 CD 3 - Problem 5 V3 6a 1
157 CD 3 - Problem 6 V0- 5a 4
158 CD 3 - Problem 7 VB 4a 3
159 Nailbite
-
VB 6
160 CD 3 - Problem 9 V0 5b 2
161 CD 3 - Problem 10 V0- 5a 1
162 CD 3 - Problem 11 VB 4c 1
163 Square face traverse f5 1
  Square Face Eliminates
165 Problem 1 - Square Face Eliminates
-
V1 5b 8
166 Problem 5 - Square Face Eliminates
-
V1 5c 7
167 Square Face Dyno f5+ 2
168 Undercuts f6B+ 3
169 All In f5+ 2
  CD Area 4 - Letterbox Crack
171 Peg Wall Eliminate V6 6b 1
  CD Area 5 - TC Area 9 b - Short Circuit
173 Ground Crew f4+ 1
174 Other Ranks f5+ 2
175 Other Ranks Eliminate I f6A * 2
176 Other Ranks Eliminate II f6A * 1
177 S Crack to Fairy Steps Traverse V2 5c 11
178 S Crack Slap f6C+ 7
179 Little John Direct f6C * 19
180 Short Circuit f6A 56
181 Low Traverse
-
V7 1
  CD Area 6 - TC Area 9b - Earwig Rib
183 Spider Wall f6A 59
184 Earwig Rib f6B * 49
185 Earwig Rib SD
-
f7A+ * 10
186 CD area 6 Problem 7 f4 2
187 CD area 6 problem 8 f4 1
188 Earwig area traverse. CD area 6 P 12 f6B+ 3
  CD Area 7 - TC Area 2 & 3c - The Cindy Crawford Workout
  Warm Up Slab
191 Introductory Slab f2 * 3
  First Slab
193 First Slab
-
f4+ 3
194 Second Slab
-
f4+ 6
  Mars Bar
196 Slab Layback
-
f4+ 3
197 CD 7 - Problem 12 f6B 6b 1
198 Biter f6C 1
199 King Size Mars Bar f5 1
  Fat Sloper
201 Top Slab f4+ 1
202 Slab Traverse f6A 1
203 Fat Sloper f6B  
  Black Porsche
205 Block Arete
-
V8+  
206 Block Centre
-
V8+ 1
207 Corner Slab f2+ 2
  Tall Thin Slab
209 CD 7 - Problem 15 f4+ 13
210 Slab Direct f6C 7
211 Flake Indirect f6B 4
212 Gully Wall f6B+ * 10
213 Hanging Arete f6A+ 3
214 Slab direct eliminate f7A+ 2
  Mantel
216 Mantel f6A+ 1
217 Low Block Left f5 1
218 Low Block Traverse f6B+  
219 Low Block Right f6A 1
  CD Area 8 - Tc Area 3 a & b - Baby Spice
221 CD 8 - Problem 1 f4 3
222 Old Spice f5 2
223 Baby Spice f7A+ * 20
224 Ron's Traverse f7A * 26
225 CD 8 - Problem 13 VB 4a 10
226 Dusky f4 7
  CD Area 9 - Left Side of The Cow
228 CD 9 - Problem 8 VB 5b 1
229 CD 9 - Problem 9 V3 6a * 1
230 Slopers f5+ 1
231 CD 9 - Problem 13 V2 6a 1
232 Bah'tat Traverse f6C 2
  CD Area 10 - TC Area 4 - The Calf
234 Yorkshire Grit - Problem 4 - The Calf V8 6c * 3
235 Bonnington's Book Problem f5 ** 24
236 Car Park Traverse V6 1
237 Calf Slopers
-
V6 1
238 Car Park Crack f5+ ** 57
239 Car Park Wall f7A+ 3
240 Super Set Traverse V10  
241 Super Set f7C+ * 11
Climb name Grade
242 The Hiest f7A+  
243 Facet Wall f6C * 14
244 The Easy Way V1 5c ** 12
245 Calf Arete
-
f2 4
246 Under the Stairs f5 17
247 CD 10 - Problem 19 V7 6c 4
248 The Ring f5+ * 30
249 The Ring Eliminate f6A 6
250 Ringpiece f7C ** 70
251 Late Fever f7B+ 1
252 CD 10 - Problem 22
-
V0 5a 2
253 Pebble Groove f5 *** 53
254 Pebble Dash f8A *** 1
  The Back of The Calf (TC Area 4b)
256 Calf Dyno f5 ** 120
257 Three More Reps f7B+ * 3
258 The Mid-Height Traverse f7B+ *** 5
259 Greasy Leopard
-
f8A+  
260 Piccachu Challenge
-
f7C+ * 1
261 Almost Pleasant
-
f6C+ ** 31
262 TC Area 4b Problem 5 f7B 8
263 Bernie The Bolt f7C ** 5
264 The Pinch V8 ** 5
265 Al's Problem V9 6c  
266 Back of the Calf - Problem 15
-
V6 * 2
267 Back of the Calf - Problem 16
-
V5 6b * 6
268 Back of The Calf - Problem 17
-
V6 6b 5
269 Back of the Calf - Problem 18 f7C ** 1
270 Back of the Calf - Problem 19 V6 6b 2
271 Back of the Calf - Problem 26 V8 1
272 Cindy Crawford f7B+ *** 6
273 Classic Calf V8 9
274 Gnome f6B * 32
  CD Area 11 - The Sentinel
276 Alan B'stard f7A+ 2
277 CD 11 - Problem 2 V0- 4a 1
278 CD 11 - Problem 8 V3 6a 1
279 CD 11 - Problem 9 V0 5a 1
280 CD 11 - Problem 10 V0 5a+ 1
281 CD 11 - Problem 11 V0 5a+ 1
282 CD 11 - Problem 12 VB 5a 1
283 CD 11 - Problem 13 VB 4c 1
  CD Area 12 - TC Area 5 - Ian's Roof (Bowling Forre Boulders)
285 J.B f7B  
286 Bouling Forre Arete SDS
-
f7C 1
287 Forre Roof V5  
288 Ian's Roof f7B+  
289 Nice and Fricious V7  
290 CD 12 - Problem 1 VB 4a 1
291 CD 12 - Problem 3 V2 5c 1
292 CD 12 - Problem 4 VB 5a 1
293 CD 12 - Problem 5 VB 5a 1
294 CD 12 - Problem 6 VB 4a 1
295 CD 12 - Problem 8 VB 4b 1
296 CD 12 - Problem 15 V4 6a+ 1
297 CD 12 - Problem 18 V0 5b 1
298 CD 12 - Problem 20 VB 4b 1
  Yorkshire Grit Boulder
300 CD 12 - Problem 21 V1 5b 2
301 Robin
-
f6C 1
302 Arn f6A+ 1
303 Chef Recommends f7A * 3
304 CD 12 - Problem 23 V2 5c 2
305 CD 12 - Problem 24 V1 5b+ 2
  CD Area 13 - TC Area 6 - Lost Boots
307 CD 13 - Problem 1 VB 4b 9
308 CD 13 - Problem 2 VB 4a 7
309 CD 13 - Problem 3 VB 4b 7
310 CD 13 - Problem 4 VB 4b 9
311 Losing Patience - CD 13 - Problem 9 f6C * 7
312 Lost Boys
-
f6C+ 3
313 Little Hole V6 2
314 Big hole f5+ 5
315 Eliminate Traverse f7B 1
316 Patience f5 14
317 CD 13 - Problem 12
-
V0 5a+ 6
318 CD 13 - Problem 13 V4 6b 6
319 First Things First f7A+ *** 9
320 First Arete
-
f7A+ * 19
321 I Am Curious Yellow
-
f7C+ *** 6
322 I Am Curious Yellow Right-Hand
-
V12  
323 I Am Curious Yellow SS
-
V11  
  CD Area 14 - Under Lost Boots
325 Slab Left Wall f4+ 2
326 Slab Nose
-
f4+ 13
327 Slab Trav f6B+ 12
328 Slab Centre f5+ 8
329 Slab Right
-
f4 16
330 CD 14 - Problem 5
-
VB 4a 4
331 CD 14 - Problem 5a V1 5a/b 4
332 Gully Traverse f6A+ * 14
333 Bee Gully f5  
334 Cee Gully f6A  
  CD Area 15 - TC Area 7 - Olicana Buttress
336 Squeeky Pop V9  
337 Olicana Arete f7A 43
338 Octavia Minor V5 1
339 Agricola
-
f6C 4
340 R.E.
-
f7C 1
341 The Easy Crew
-
f5 6
342 Spartacus
-
f6C * 12
343 Constantine
-
f6C 5
344 Maximus Aurelius V5+ 1
345 The Brute f7B+ 1
346 Boudicca f7A+ 14
347 Ming f7B+ 1
348 Dunromin V5+ 1
349 Chariots of Fire f6C 7
350 Chariots Of Fire Eliminate f7B+ * 6
  Forgotten Buttress
352 Triceratops f4 * 3
  Unconfirmed Climbs
354 Little Cow
-
VD 1
355 Tramline MVS 4b 1
  Routes Added from Rockfax Book
357 Double Top Side f5 1
358 Double Top Side Eliminate f5+ 1
359 Double Top f5 1
360 Double Top Arete f5+ * 1
361 Easy Fin f4+ 1
362 Parkour Boys f6A * 1
363 CD 4 sitter f4+ * 1

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