Climbs 297
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 250m a.s.l
Faces N

Tim on Cow Udder (E1 5a) at Ilkley, Yorkshire © Jamie Moss

Crag features

Notable for New Statesman (E8 7a) which takes the compelling arete, but if you're not feeling up to that there are plenty of routes to entertain. Wellington Crack (E4 5c) is fun too.

Bouldering

CD = Cameron Duff

TC = Total Climbing

Approach notes

Car Park 100m from the rocks. Bus and train to Ilkley approx. 3 km away - allow 40 min for the walk. Get off at Ben Rhydding for a shorter walk to the crag - 15 mins if you're a quick walker - up the obvious path through the small wood.

Guidebooks

Northern England

The book is a selected route and crag guide although it still manages to pack over 2350 routes between its covers, spread across 44 crags. The main focus is on routes of all grades from Moderate to E9, but the best bouldering is also described.
More info
I love this place, its got it all. It is windy and cold and close to the car park and everything!
hop360 - 15/Jul/08
Been a few times, but today was great. Midweek, no crowds, warm weather, couple of other climbers, Walewska, Peg Crack, Blucher, Josephine Superdirect, Letterbox Crack all led. A great place for a quick fix of climbing.
Crofty - 24/Jun/08
Sorry what I meant to say,is it is the best crag in the world!.When you are bored with Ilkley you are bored with life!.
Huw - 05/Dec/05
Probably the best crag in the world.
Huw - 02/Nov/05
The bouldering on the back of the calf is very good in my opinion. Very enjoyable if you like climbing on crimps/ pinches/ undercuts on overhanging terrain. A bit of polish, but nothing compared to places like almscliffe... and the problems are mainly eliminates, so a guide is kinda useful. Lots of people walking around the place, but its nothing to cry about, most of them arent climbers and hence wont be top-roping anyway :). (Find something else to whine about :) )
Scott - 21/Aug/05
I'd rather have a few beginners on a crag than a whingeing twat with a made-up name like 'salamanda' !
matt - 24/Jun/05
Some excellent climbing spoiled by hordes of day trippers hence noise, and loads of top-roping beginner parties hence polish. The sight of hundreds of pairs of trainers scuppering helplessly across crucial small holds will make you cringe.
Salamanda - 25/Jul/04
Polished, but good climbing to be had
mick whiteoak - 31/May/04
If u want to get to grips with grit there are few better places than Ilkley. If ur doing ur first lead or E7 there is something there for u and one of the best walls of VS climbs anywhere. S Crack and Walewska are worth the trip alone - just hope u find somewhere to park when the weather is good
howard - 14/Mar/02
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  *** ROUTES ***
  Doris Buttress
3 Vital Spark
-
S 15
4 Sinister Cracks VD 129
5 Sinister Rib E3 5b * 70
6 Blackball E3 5c * 26
7 Doris S 3c ** 217
8 Bald Pate E1 5a * 26
9 Doris Direct
-
E4 7a ** 1
10 Bald Pate Super Direct E6 6c *  
11 Bald Pate Direct f7B  
12 Deathwatch E7 6b * 29
13 Little Kaiser
-
HS 4b 18
14 Grand as Owt E3 6a 1
15 Where Blue Tits Dare
-
E4 6b  
16 Serendipity E2 5b * 19
17 Piton Wall HVS 5a ** 65
18 Transparent Wall HVS 5a ** 153
19 Sticky Fingers E2 5c * 37
20 Magic Pie
-
HS 4b 7
21 Desperate Dredd (Left Slab Variation) E3 5c  
22 Desperate Dredd E4 6a 8
  The Quarry
24 Highfield Corner HVS 5a 20
25 Nailbite VD * 396
26 Central Wall E1 5b 14
27 Central Rib
-
HVS 5a 7
28 Sand Chimney VD * 89
29 Wellington Chimney
-
D * 34
30 Demolition Derby HS 4a 13
31 Overhanging Blocks
-
HVS 5a 3
32 The Stomach Traverse
-
HS 4a 8
33 Wellington Crack E4 5c *** 181
34 Loaded E8 7a * 1
35 Snap Decision E7 6c ** 15
36 Shadowlands
-
MS 20
37 Jiggery Not Pokery HVS 5b 3
38 Curving Cracks VS 5a * 203
39 Gibbon's Wall HS 4c 61
40 High Street E3 5c ** 22
41 Curving Corner HVS 5b 23
42 Letter Box Crack HS 4b 83
43 Peg Wall f6B+ 39
44 Peg Crack HVS 5a * 308
45 Corner And Scoop
-
HS 4a 19
46 Quatre Bras E1 5b * 2
47 The Maid of Wakefield E4 6b * 1
48 Guillotine E6 * 32
49 Big Bud E6 6c 1
50 Unexpected Journey
-
E6 6b *  
51 Thompson's Crack VS 4c ** 15
52 Into The Great Wide Open E4 5c 3
53 Propeller Wall E4 5c 17
54 Turboprop E5 6b 2
55 Old Crack VS 4b * 387
56 S Crack VS 4c *** 980
57 Fairy Wall (S Crack Start) HVS 5a ** 19
58 Fairy Wall E2 5c 68
59 Fairy Steps HVD * 656
60 Fairy Steps (direct start)
-
MS * 141
61 V Chimney VS 5a 30
62 Cherry Valley Rib HVS 5a * 149
63 Josephine Super Direct VS 4b ** 443
64 Josephine Direct HS 4b * 181
65 Little John E1 5b 40
66 Short Circuit E2 5c * 92
67 Hipgnosis
-
E3 6b 1
68 Josephine HS 4b ** 482
69 The Girdle Traverse VS 4c ** 6
70 Napoleon VS 4c * 320
71 Blucher VS 4c * 379
72 Tufted Crack E1 5c ** 440
73 Waterloo
-
E2 6a 5
74 Walewska VS 4c *** 811
75 Walewska Variation
-
VS 5a ** 27
76 Josephine Traverse
-
HS 4b * 38
77 Warriors of the Wasteland
-
E6 6b 2
78 Not Tonight Josephine
-
E3 6a 3
79 Optimus Prime E5 6b 1
80 Botterill's Crack HVS 5a * 79
81 Flake Crack HS 4a * 432
82 Flake Crack Direct
-
E2 6a 23
83 Unknown HVD 7
  Central Area
85 Old Spice E2 5b * 49
86 Ladybird HVD * 143
87 Eastern Night
-
MS 22
88 Nightshade
-
HS 4b * 31
89 Dead Of Night
-
HVS 5a 5
90 Evening Wall
-
VS 4c * 31
91 Cold Chisel HS 4b 27
92 Chiseller S 4a * 327
93 Gaz S 4b 23
  The Cow
95 Cow Crack VD * 112
96 Cow Flap VS 5a 7
97 Cow Rib HVS 5a ** 24
98 A Climb S 4b *** 371
99 A Climb Alternative Finish
-
HVS 5b * 7
100 Ferdinand HS 4a ** 73
101 Ferdinand Hand Traverse
-
VS 4c 19
102 Voyage To The Outer Limits
-
E6 6b 1
103 Desperate Dan E6 6b ** 13
104 Cow Udder E1 5a * 134
105 Mad Dogs
-
E3 5c * 6
106 The Black and White Days
-
E5 6b *  
107 Gerty Berwick E9 7b ***  
108 The Lizard King E9 7a ** 1
109 The New Statesman E8 7a *** 26
110 Milky Way E6 6b *** 28
111 Mars Bar
-
E6 6c  
112 Galaxy
-
E6 6b * 1
113 Outspan
-
E6 6c  
114 The Marine Who Slept In E5 6a * 2
115 Fast Forward E6 6c ** 1
116 Hand Jive E2 5c * 3
117 The Sentinel
-
VD 23
  The Calf
119 The Early Starter f6B * 4
120 The Chipped Steps. M * 108
  Bowling Forre Boulders - (Western Buttresses)
122 In A Pickle
-
E6 6b 1
123 Captain B.O.'s Kiss Of Death
-
E3 6b  
124 Butch Crack
-
HVS 5b 1
125 Cassidy's Crawl
-
VS 5a * 2
126 Lost Boots
-
VS 4c * 51
127 Patience
-
HVS 5b * 28
128 Waiting Room
-
E2 6a 7
129 Little Hole
-
E2 6a  
130 Big Hole E1 5c 18
131 Doing the Business
-
E3 6b *  
132 Green Chimney
-
HVS 5a 3
133 First Arete
-
E3 6b 9
134 Three Mantels S 6
135 Second Arete
-
VD 17
  Far Western Buttress
137 Olicana Crack
-
VS 5b 5
138 Romans Rib
-
E5 6c  
139 Carrie
-
E3 6a  
  Forgotten Buttress
141 Forgotten Buttress
-
S 4a 10
142 Double Crack
-
VD 12
143 Mantelshelf Arete
-
S 4a * 9
  *** BOULDERING ***
  CD Area 1 - Two Little Fins
146 CD 1 - Problem 1 V0 5a 2
147 CD 1 - Problem 4 V0 5a 1
148 CD 1 - Problem 7 VB 4b 2
  CD Area 2 - TC Area 1 - Bald Pate
150 CD 2 - Problem 5 V2 5c 1
151 Bald Pate Direct Start E2 5b ** 10
152 Magnetic Man Vibe f7C+  
  CD Area 3 - Square Face
154 CD 3 - Problem 3 V3 6a 1
155 CD 3 - Problem 4 V0 5b 4
156 CD 3 - Problem 5 V3 6a 1
157 CD 3 - Problem 6 V0- 5a 4
158 CD 3 - Problem 7 VB 4a 3
159 Nailbite
-
VB 6
160 CD 3 - Problem 9 V0 5b 2
161 CD 3 - Problem 10 V0- 5a 1
162 CD 3 - Problem 11 VB 4c 1
  Square Face Eliminates
164 Problem 1 - Square Face Eliminates
-
V1 5b 7
165 Problem 5 - Square Face Eliminates
-
V1 5c 6
  CD Area 4 - Letterbox Crack
167 Peg Wall Eliminate V6 6b 1
  CD Area 5 - TC Area 9 b - Short Circuit
169 Ground Crew f4+ 1
170 Other Ranks f5+ 1
171 Other Ranks Eliminate I f6A * 1
172 Other Ranks Eliminate II f6A * 1
173 S Crack to Fairy Steps Traverse V2 5c 9
174 S Crack Slap f6C+ 5
175 Little John Direct f6C * 15
176 Short Circuit f6A 50
  CD Area 6 - TC Area 9b - Earwig Rib
178 Spider Wall f6A 55
179 Earwig Rib f6B * 45
180 Earwig Rib SD
-
f7A+ * 9
181 CD area 6 Problem 7 f4 1
182 CD area 6 problem 8 f4 1
183 Earwig area traverse. CD area 6 P 12 f6B+ 2
  CD Area 7 - TC Area 2 & 3c - The Cindy Crawford Workout
  Warm Up Slab
186 Introductory Slab f2 * 2
  First Slab
188 First Slab
-
f4+ 1
189 Second Slab
-
f4+ 3
  Mars Bar
191 Slab Layback
-
f4+ 3
192 CD 7 - Problem 12 f6B 6b 1
193 Biter f6C 1
194 King Size Mars Bar f5 1
  Fat Sloper
196 Top Slab f4+ 1
197 Slab Traverse f6A 1
198 Fat Sloper f6B  
  Black Porsche
200 Corner Slab f2+ 2
  Tall Thin Slab
202 CD 7 - Problem 15 f4+ 10
203 Slab Direct f6C 5
204 Flake Indirect f6B 4
205 Gully Wall f6B+ * 8
206 Hanging Arete f6A+ 1
  Mantel
208 Mantel f6A+  
209 Low Block Left f5  
210 Low Block Traverse f6B+  
211 Low Block Right f6A  
  CD Area 8 - Tc Area 3 a & b - Baby Spice
213 CD 8 - Problem 1 f4 2
214 Old Spice f5 2
215 Baby Spice f7A+ * 15
216 Ron's Traverse f7A * 23
217 CD 8 - Problem 13 VB 4a 9
218 Dusky f4 5
  CD Area 9 - Left Side of The Cow
220 CD 9 - Problem 8 VB 5b 1
221 CD 9 - Problem 9 V3 6a * 1
222 Slopers f5+ 1
223 CD 9 - Problem 13 V2 6a 1
224 Bah'tat Traverse f6C 1
  CD Area 10 - TC Area 4 - The Calf
226 Yorkshire Grit - Problem 4 - The Calf V8 6c * 3
227 Bonnington's Book Problem f5 ** 20
228 Car Park Crack f5+ ** 50
229 Car Park Wall Eliminate f7A+ 2
230 Super Set f7C+ * 7
231 The Hiest f7A+  
232 Facet Wall f6C * 13
233 The Easy Way V1 5c ** 12
234 Calf Arete
-
f2 4
235 Under the Stairs f5 16
236 CD 10 - Problem 19 V7 6c 3
237 The Ring f5+ * 26
238 The Ring Eliminate f6A 5
239 Ringpiece f7C ** 75
240 Late Fever f7B+  
241 CD 10 - Problem 22
-
V0 5a 2
242 Pebble Groove f5 *** 56
243 Pebble Dash f8A ***  
  The Back of The Calf (TC Area 4b)
245 Calf Dyno f5 ** 108
246 Three More Reps f7B+ * 3
247 The Mid-Height Traverse f7B+ *** 4
248 Greasy Leopard
-
f8A+  
249 Piccachu Challenge
-
f7C+ * 1
250 Almost Pleasant
-
f6C+ ** 28
251 TC Area 4b Problem 5 f7B 8
252 Bernie The Bolt f7C ** 5
253 The Pinch V8 ** 4
254 Al's Problem V9 6c  
255 Back of the Calf - Problem 15
-
V6 * 2
256 Back of the Calf - Problem 16
-
V5 6b * 6
257 Back of The Calf - Problem 17
-
V6 6b 5
258 Back of the Calf - Problem 18 f7C ** 1
259 Back of the Calf - Problem 19 V6 6b 2
260 Back of the Calf - Problem 26 V8 1
261 Cindy Crawford f7B+ *** 9
262 Gnome f6B * 28
  CD Area 11 - The Sentinel
264 Alan B'stard f7A+ 1
265 CD 11 - Problem 2 V0- 4a 1
266 CD 11 - Problem 8 V3 6a 1
267 CD 11 - Problem 9 V0 5a 1
268 CD 11 - Problem 10 V0 5a+ 1
269 CD 11 - Problem 11 V0 5a+ 1
270 CD 11 - Problem 12 VB 5a 1
271 CD 11 - Problem 13 VB 4c 1
  CD Area 12 - TC Area 5 - Ian's Roof (Bowling Forre Boulders)
273 J.B f7B  
274 Bouling Forre Arete SDS
-
f7C  
275 Ian's Roof f7B+  
276 CD 12 - Problem 1 VB 4a 1
277 CD 12 - Problem 3 V2 5c 1
278 CD 12 - Problem 4 VB 5a 1
279 CD 12 - Problem 5 VB 5a 1
280 CD 12 - Problem 6 VB 4a 1
281 CD 12 - Problem 8 VB 4b 1
282 CD 12 - Problem 15 V4 6a+ 1
283 CD 12 - Problem 18 V0 5b 1
284 CD 12 - Problem 20 VB 4b 1
  Yorkshire Grit Boulder
286 CD 12 - Problem 21 V1 5b 2
287 Robin
-
f6C 1
288 Arn f6A+ 1
289 Chef Recommends f7A * 2
290 CD 12 - Problem 23 V2 5c 2
291 CD 12 - Problem 24 V1 5b+ 2
  CD Area 13 - TC Area 6 - Lost Boots
293 CD 13 - Problem 1 VB 4b 6
294 CD 13 - Problem 2 VB 4a 5
295 CD 13 - Problem 3 VB 4b 4
296 CD 13 - Problem 4 VB 4b 6
297 Losing Patience - CD 13 - Problem 9 f6C * 6
298 Lost Boys
-
f6C+ 3
299 Big hole f5+ 1
300 Eliminate Traverse f7B 1
301 Patience f5 11
302 CD 13 - Problem 12
-
V0 5a+ 6
303 CD 13 - Problem 13 V4 6b 6
304 First Things First f7A+ *** 7
305 First Arete
-
f7A+ * 11
306 I Am Curious Yellow
-
f7C+ *** 4
  CD Area 14 - Under Lost Boots
308 Slab Left Wall f4+ 1
309 Slab Nose
-
f4+ 7
310 Slab Trav f6B+ 7
311 Slab Centre f5+ 4
312 Slab Right
-
f4 10
313 CD 14 - Problem 5
-
VB 4a 4
314 CD 14 - Problem 5a V1 5a/b 3
315 Gully Traverse f6A+ * 8
316 Bee Gully f5  
317 Cee Gully f6A  
  CD Area 15 - TC Area 7 - Olicana Buttress
319 Olicana Arete f7A 35
320 Agricola
-
f6C 3
321 R.E.
-
f7C  
322 The Easy Crew
-
f5 5
323 Spartacus
-
f6C * 8
324 Constantine
-
f6C 3
325 The Brute f7B+  
326 Boudicca f7A+ 13
327 Ming f7B+  
328 Chariots of Fire f6C 7
329 Chariots Of Fire Eliminate f7B+ * 5
  Forgotten Buttress
331 Triceratops f4 * 3
  Unconfirmed Climbs
333 Little Cow
-
VD 1
334 Tramline MVS 4b 1
  Routes Added from Rockfax Book

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