UKC

Climbs 321
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 250m a.s.l
Faces N

Tim on Cow Udder (E1 5a) at Ilkley, Yorkshire © Jamie Moss

Crag features

Notable for New Statesman (E8 7a) which takes the compelling arete, but if you're not feeling up to that there are plenty of routes to entertain. Wellington Crack (E4 5c) is fun too.

Bouldering

CD = Cameron Duff

TC = Total Climbing

Approach notes

Car Park 100m from the rocks. Bus and train to Ilkley approx. 3 km away - allow 40 min for the walk. Get off at Ben Rhydding for a shorter walk to the crag - 15 mins if you're a quick walker - up the obvious path through the small wood.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

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Guidebooks

Northern England

The book is a selected route and crag guide although it still manages to pack over 2350 routes between its covers, spread across 44 crags. The main focus is on routes of all grades from Moderate to E9, but the best bouldering is also described.
More info
I love this place, its got it all. It is windy and cold and close to the car park and everything!
hop360 - 15/Jul/08
Been a few times, but today was great. Midweek, no crowds, warm weather, couple of other climbers, Walewska, Peg Crack, Blucher, Josephine Superdirect, Letterbox Crack all led. A great place for a quick fix of climbing.
Crofty - 24/Jun/08
Sorry what I meant to say,is it is the best crag in the world!.When you are bored with Ilkley you are bored with life!.
Huw - 05/Dec/05
Probably the best crag in the world.
Huw - 02/Nov/05
The bouldering on the back of the calf is very good in my opinion. Very enjoyable if you like climbing on crimps/ pinches/ undercuts on overhanging terrain. A bit of polish, but nothing compared to places like almscliffe... and the problems are mainly eliminates, so a guide is kinda useful. Lots of people walking around the place, but its nothing to cry about, most of them arent climbers and hence wont be top-roping anyway :). (Find something else to whine about :) )
Scott - 21/Aug/05
I'd rather have a few beginners on a crag than a whingeing twat with a made-up name like 'salamanda' !
matt - 24/Jun/05
Some excellent climbing spoiled by hordes of day trippers hence noise, and loads of top-roping beginner parties hence polish. The sight of hundreds of pairs of trainers scuppering helplessly across crucial small holds will make you cringe.
Salamanda - 25/Jul/04
Polished, but good climbing to be had
mick whiteoak - 31/May/04
If u want to get to grips with grit there are few better places than Ilkley. If ur doing ur first lead or E7 there is something there for u and one of the best walls of VS climbs anywhere. S Crack and Walewska are worth the trip alone - just hope u find somewhere to park when the weather is good
howard - 14/Mar/02
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  *** ROUTES ***
  Doris Buttress
3 Vital Spark
-
S 15
4 Sinister Cracks VD 133
5 Sinister Rib E3 5b * 67
6 Blackball E3 5c * 26
7 Doris S 3c ** 218
8 Bald Pate E1 5a * 27
9 Bald Pate Direct Start E2 5b ** 8
10 Doris Direct
-
E4 7a ** 1
11 Bald Pate Super Direct E6 6c *  
12 Deathwatch E7 6b * 32
13 Little Kaiser
-
HS 4b 18
14 Grand as Owt E3 6a 1
15 Where Blue Tits Dare
-
E4 6b  
16 Serendipity E2 5b * 21
17 Piton Wall HVS 5a ** 62
18 Transparent Wall HVS 5a ** 146
19 Sticky Fingers E2 5c * 39
20 Magic Pie
-
HS 4b 7
21 Left of Dredd S 4a * 1
22 Desperate Dredd (Left Slab Variation) E3 5c  
23 Desperate Dredd E4 6a 8
  The Quarry
25 Highfield Corner HVS 5a 22
26 Nailbite VD * 410
27 Central Wall E1 5b 15
28 Central Rib
-
HVS 5a 7
29 Sand Chimney VD * 87
30 Wellington Chimney
-
D * 30
31 Demolition Derby HS 4a 14
32 Overhanging Blocks
-
HVS 5a 3
33 The Stomach Traverse
-
HS 4a 8
34 Wellington Crack E4 5c *** 107
35 Loaded E8 7a * 1
36 Snap Decision E7 6c ** 12
37 Shadowlands
-
MS 22
38 Jiggery Not Pokery HVS 5b 3
39 Curving Cracks VS 5a * 211
40 Gibbon's Wall HS 4c 61
41 High Street E3 5c ** 21
42 Curving Corner HVS 5b 23
43 Letter Box Crack HS 4b 87
44 Peg Wall f6B+ 39
45 Peg Crack HVS 5a * 314
46 Corner And Scoop
-
HS 4a 23
47 Quatre Bras E1 5b * 2
48 The Maid of Wakefield E4 6b * 1
49 Guillotine E6 * 29
50 Big Bud E6 6c 1
51 Unexpected Journey
-
E6 6b *  
52 Thompson's Crack VS 4c ** 14
53 Into The Great Wide Open E4 5c 3
54 Propeller Wall E4 5c 17
55 Turboprop E5 6b 2
56 Old Crack VS 4b * 421
57 S Crack VS 4c *** 1019
58 Fairy Wall (S Crack Start) HVS 5a ** 17
59 Fairy Wall E2 5c 67
60 Fairy Steps HVD * 692
61 Fairy Steps (direct start)
-
MS * 143
62 V Chimney VS 5a 30
63 Cherry Valley Rib HVS 5a * 157
64 Josephine Super Direct VS 4b ** 459
65 Josephine Direct HS 4b * 187
66 Little John E1 5b 36
67 Short Circuit E2 5c * 91
68 Hipgnosis
-
E3 6b 1
69 Josephine HS 4b ** 502
70 The Girdle Traverse VS 4c ** 6
71 Napoleon VS 4c * 345
72 Blucher VS 4c * 405
73 Tufted Crack E1 5c ** 424
74 Waterloo
-
E2 6a 5
75 Walewska VS 4c *** 845
76 Walewska Variation
-
VS 5a ** 28
77 Josephine Traverse
-
HS 4b * 39
78 Warriors of the Wasteland
-
E6 6b 2
79 Not Tonight Josephine
-
E3 6a 3
80 Optimus Prime E5 6b 1
81 Botterill's Crack HVS 5a * 76
82 Flake Crack HS 4a * 456
83 Flake Crack Direct
-
E2 6a 21
84 Unknown HVD 7
  Central Area
86 Old Spice E2 5b * 49
87 Ladybird HVD * 146
88 Eastern Night
-
MS 22
89 Nightshade
-
HS 4b * 32
90 Dead Of Night
-
HVS 5a 5
91 Evening Wall
-
VS 4c * 31
92 Cold Chisel HS 4b 28
93 Chiseller S 4a * 342
94 Gaz S 4b 23
  The Cow
96 Cow Crack VD * 116
97 Cow Flap VS 5a 7
98 Cow Rib HVS 5a ** 30
99 A Climb S 4b *** 356
100 A Climb Alternative Finish
-
HVS 5b * 10
101 Ferdinand HS 4a ** 73
102 Ferdinand Hand Traverse
-
VS 4c 22
103 Voyage To The Outer Limits
-
E6 6b 1
104 Desperate Dan E6 6b ** 17
105 Cow Udder E1 5a * 132
106 Mad Dogs
-
E3 5c * 6
107 The Black and White Days
-
E5 6b *  
108 Gerty Berwick E9 7b ***  
109 The Lizard King E9 7a ** 1
110 The New Statesman E8 7a *** 8
111 Milky Way E6 6b *** 14
112 Mars Bar
-
E6 6c  
113 Galaxy
-
E6 6b * 1
114 Outspan
-
E6 6c  
115 The Marine Who Slept In E5 6a * 2
116 Fast Forward E6 6c ** 1
117 Hand Jive E2 5c * 3
118 The Sentinel
-
VD 24
  The Calf
120 The Early Starter f6B * 4
Climb name Grade
121 The Chipped Steps. M * 113
  Bowling Forre Boulders - (Western Buttresses)
123 In A Pickle
-
E6 6b 1
124 Captain B.O.'s Kiss Of Death
-
E3 6b  
125 Butch Crack
-
HVS 5b 1
126 Cassidy's Crawl
-
VS 5a * 2
127 Lost Boots
-
VS 4c * 54
128 Patience
-
HVS 5b * 29
129 Waiting Room
-
E2 6a 7
130 Little Hole
-
E2 6a  
131 Big Hole E1 5c 18
132 Doing the Business
-
E3 6b *  
133 Green Chimney
-
HVS 5a 3
134 First Arete
-
E3 6b 9
135 Three Mantels S 6
136 Second Arete
-
VD 17
  Far Western Buttress
138 Olicana Crack
-
VS 5b 7
139 Romans Rib
-
E5 6c  
140 Carrie
-
E3 6a  
  Forgotten Buttress
142 Forgotten Buttress
-
S 4a 10
143 Double Crack
-
VD 12
144 Mantelshelf Arete
-
S 4a * 9
  *** BOULDERING ***
  CD Area 1 - Two Little Fins
147 CD 1 - Problem 1 V0 5a 2
148 CD 1 - Problem 4 V0 5a 1
149 CD 1 - Problem 7 VB 4b 2
  CD Area 2 - TC Area 1 - Bald Pate
151 CD 2 - Problem 5 V2 5c 1
152 Bald Pate Direct f7B 1
153 Magnetic Man Vibe f7C+  
  CD Area 3 - Square Face
155 CD 3 - Problem 3 V3 6a 1
156 CD 3 - Problem 4 V0 5b 4
157 CD 3 - Problem 5 V3 6a 1
158 CD 3 - Problem 6 V0- 5a 4
159 CD 3 - Problem 7 VB 4a 3
160 Nailbite
-
VB 6
161 CD 3 - Problem 9 V0 5b 2
162 CD 3 - Problem 10 V0- 5a 1
163 CD 3 - Problem 11 VB 4c 1
  Square Face Eliminates
165 Problem 1 - Square Face Eliminates
-
V1 5b 7
166 Problem 5 - Square Face Eliminates
-
V1 5c 6
  CD Area 4 - Letterbox Crack
168 Peg Wall Eliminate V6 6b 1
  CD Area 5 - TC Area 9 b - Short Circuit
170 Ground Crew f4+ 1
171 Other Ranks f5+ 1
172 Other Ranks Eliminate I f6A * 1
173 Other Ranks Eliminate II f6A * 1
174 S Crack to Fairy Steps Traverse V2 5c 9
175 S Crack Slap f6C+ 5
176 Little John Direct f6C * 15
177 Short Circuit f6A 51
178 Low Traverse
-
V7 1
  CD Area 6 - TC Area 9b - Earwig Rib
180 Spider Wall f6A 55
181 Earwig Rib f6B * 45
182 Earwig Rib SD
-
f7A+ * 10
183 CD area 6 Problem 7 f4 1
184 CD area 6 problem 8 f4 1
185 Earwig area traverse. CD area 6 P 12 f6B+ 2
  CD Area 7 - TC Area 2 & 3c - The Cindy Crawford Workout
  Warm Up Slab
188 Introductory Slab f2 * 3
  First Slab
190 First Slab
-
f4+ 2
191 Second Slab
-
f4+ 5
  Mars Bar
193 Slab Layback
-
f4+ 3
194 CD 7 - Problem 12 f6B 6b 1
195 Biter f6C 1
196 King Size Mars Bar f5 1
  Fat Sloper
198 Top Slab f4+ 1
199 Slab Traverse f6A 1
200 Fat Sloper f6B  
  Black Porsche
202 Block Arete
-
V8+  
203 Block Centre
-
V8+ 1
204 Corner Slab f2+ 2
  Tall Thin Slab
206 CD 7 - Problem 15 f4+ 12
207 Slab Direct f6C 6
208 Flake Indirect f6B 4
209 Gully Wall f6B+ * 9
210 Hanging Arete f6A+ 2
211 Slab direct eliminate f7A+ 1
  Mantel
213 Mantel f6A+ 1
214 Low Block Left f5  
215 Low Block Traverse f6B+  
216 Low Block Right f6A  
  CD Area 8 - Tc Area 3 a & b - Baby Spice
218 CD 8 - Problem 1 f4 3
219 Old Spice f5 2
220 Baby Spice f7A+ * 16
221 Ron's Traverse f7A * 24
222 CD 8 - Problem 13 VB 4a 10
223 Dusky f4 6
  CD Area 9 - Left Side of The Cow
225 CD 9 - Problem 8 VB 5b 1
226 CD 9 - Problem 9 V3 6a * 1
227 Slopers f5+ 1
228 CD 9 - Problem 13 V2 6a 1
229 Bah'tat Traverse f6C 1
  CD Area 10 - TC Area 4 - The Calf
231 Yorkshire Grit - Problem 4 - The Calf V8 6c * 3
232 Bonnington's Book Problem f5 ** 21
233 Car Park Traverse V6  
234 Calf Slopers
-
V6 1
235 Car Park Crack f5+ ** 53
236 Car Park Wall f7A+ 3
237 Super Set Traverse V10  
238 Super Set f7C+ * 8
239 The Hiest f7A+  
240 Facet Wall f6C * 12
Climb name Grade
241 The Easy Way V1 5c ** 12
242 Calf Arete
-
f2 4
243 Under the Stairs f5 16
244 CD 10 - Problem 19 V7 6c 4
245 The Ring f5+ * 26
246 The Ring Eliminate f6A 5
247 Ringpiece f7C ** 66
248 Late Fever f7B+ 1
249 CD 10 - Problem 22
-
V0 5a 2
250 Pebble Groove f5 *** 52
251 Pebble Dash f8A ***  
  The Back of The Calf (TC Area 4b)
253 Calf Dyno f5 ** 112
254 Three More Reps f7B+ * 3
255 The Mid-Height Traverse f7B+ *** 4
256 Greasy Leopard
-
f8A+  
257 Piccachu Challenge
-
f7C+ * 1
258 Almost Pleasant
-
f6C+ ** 28
259 TC Area 4b Problem 5 f7B 8
260 Bernie The Bolt f7C ** 5
261 The Pinch V8 ** 4
262 Al's Problem V9 6c  
263 Back of the Calf - Problem 15
-
V6 * 2
264 Back of the Calf - Problem 16
-
V5 6b * 6
265 Back of The Calf - Problem 17
-
V6 6b 5
266 Back of the Calf - Problem 18 f7C ** 1
267 Back of the Calf - Problem 19 V6 6b 2
268 Back of the Calf - Problem 26 V8 1
269 Cindy Crawford f7B+ *** 5
270 Classic Calf V8 3
271 Gnome f6B * 29
  CD Area 11 - The Sentinel
273 Alan B'stard f7A+ 2
274 CD 11 - Problem 2 V0- 4a 1
275 CD 11 - Problem 8 V3 6a 1
276 CD 11 - Problem 9 V0 5a 1
277 CD 11 - Problem 10 V0 5a+ 1
278 CD 11 - Problem 11 V0 5a+ 1
279 CD 11 - Problem 12 VB 5a 1
280 CD 11 - Problem 13 VB 4c 1
  CD Area 12 - TC Area 5 - Ian's Roof (Bowling Forre Boulders)
282 J.B f7B  
283 Bouling Forre Arete SDS
-
f7C  
284 Forre Roof V5  
285 Ian's Roof f7B+  
286 Nice and Fricious V7  
287 CD 12 - Problem 1 VB 4a 1
288 CD 12 - Problem 3 V2 5c 1
289 CD 12 - Problem 4 VB 5a 1
290 CD 12 - Problem 5 VB 5a 1
291 CD 12 - Problem 6 VB 4a 1
292 CD 12 - Problem 8 VB 4b 1
293 CD 12 - Problem 15 V4 6a+ 1
294 CD 12 - Problem 18 V0 5b 1
295 CD 12 - Problem 20 VB 4b 1
  Yorkshire Grit Boulder
297 CD 12 - Problem 21 V1 5b 2
298 Robin
-
f6C 1
299 Arn f6A+ 1
300 Chef Recommends f7A * 3
301 CD 12 - Problem 23 V2 5c 2
302 CD 12 - Problem 24 V1 5b+ 2
  CD Area 13 - TC Area 6 - Lost Boots
304 CD 13 - Problem 1 VB 4b 8
305 CD 13 - Problem 2 VB 4a 6
306 CD 13 - Problem 3 VB 4b 6
307 CD 13 - Problem 4 VB 4b 8
308 Losing Patience - CD 13 - Problem 9 f6C * 6
309 Lost Boys
-
f6C+ 3
310 Little Hole V6 1
311 Big hole f5+ 4
312 Eliminate Traverse f7B 1
313 Patience f5 11
314 CD 13 - Problem 12
-
V0 5a+ 6
315 CD 13 - Problem 13 V4 6b 6
316 First Things First f7A+ *** 9
317 First Arete
-
f7A+ * 16
318 I Am Curious Yellow
-
f7C+ *** 6
319 I Am Curious Yellow Right-Hand
-
V12  
  CD Area 14 - Under Lost Boots
321 Slab Left Wall f4+ 1
322 Slab Nose
-
f4+ 10
323 Slab Trav f6B+ 9
324 Slab Centre f5+ 7
325 Slab Right
-
f4 13
326 CD 14 - Problem 5
-
VB 4a 4
327 CD 14 - Problem 5a V1 5a/b 3
328 Gully Traverse f6A+ * 10
329 Bee Gully f5  
330 Cee Gully f6A  
  CD Area 15 - TC Area 7 - Olicana Buttress
332 Squeeky Pop V9  
333 Olicana Arete f7A 38
334 Octavia Minor V5 1
335 Agricola
-
f6C 3
336 R.E.
-
f7C 1
337 The Easy Crew
-
f5 5
338 Spartacus
-
f6C * 10
339 Constantine
-
f6C 4
340 Maximus Aurelius V5+ 1
341 The Brute f7B+ 1
342 Boudicca f7A+ 14
343 Ming f7B+ 1
344 Dunromin V5+ 1
345 Chariots of Fire f6C 7
346 Chariots Of Fire Eliminate f7B+ * 6
  Forgotten Buttress
348 Triceratops f4 * 3
  Unconfirmed Climbs
350 Little Cow
-
VD 1
351 Tramline MVS 4b 1
  Routes Added from Rockfax Book
353 Double Top Side f5 1
354 Double Top Side Eliminate f5+ 1
355 Double Top f5 1
356 Double Top Arete f5+ * 1
357 Easy Fin f4+ 1
358 Parkour Boys f6A * 1
359 CD 4 sitter f4+ * 1

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