Climbs 285
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 250m a.s.l
Faces N

Tim on Cow Udder (E1 5a) at Ilkley, Yorkshire © Jamie Moss

Crag features

Notable for New Statesman (E8 7a) which takes the compelling arete, but if you're not feeling up to that there are plenty of routes to entertain. Wellington Crack (E4 5c) is fun too.

Bouldering

CD = Cameron Duff

TC = Total Climbing

Approach notes

Car Park 100m from the rocks. Bus and train to Ilkley approx. 3 km away - allow 40 min for the walk. Get off at Ben Rhydding for a shorter walk to the crag - 15 mins if you're a quick walker - up the obvious path through the small wood.

Guidebooks

Northern England

The book is a selected route and crag guide although it still manages to pack over 2350 routes between its covers, spread across 44 crags. The main focus is on routes of all grades from Moderate to E9, but the best bouldering is also described.
More info
I love this place, its got it all. It is windy and cold and close to the car park and everything!
hop360 - 15/Jul/08
Been a few times, but today was great. Midweek, no crowds, warm weather, couple of other climbers, Walewska, Peg Crack, Blucher, Josephine Superdirect, Letterbox Crack all led. A great place for a quick fix of climbing.
Crofty - 24/Jun/08
Sorry what I meant to say,is it is the best crag in the world!.When you are bored with Ilkley you are bored with life!.
Huw - 05/Dec/05
Probably the best crag in the world.
Huw - 02/Nov/05
The bouldering on the back of the calf is very good in my opinion. Very enjoyable if you like climbing on crimps/ pinches/ undercuts on overhanging terrain. A bit of polish, but nothing compared to places like almscliffe... and the problems are mainly eliminates, so a guide is kinda useful. Lots of people walking around the place, but its nothing to cry about, most of them arent climbers and hence wont be top-roping anyway :). (Find something else to whine about :) )
Scott - 21/Aug/05
I'd rather have a few beginners on a crag than a whingeing twat with a made-up name like 'salamanda' !
matt - 24/Jun/05
Some excellent climbing spoiled by hordes of day trippers hence noise, and loads of top-roping beginner parties hence polish. The sight of hundreds of pairs of trainers scuppering helplessly across crucial small holds will make you cringe.
Salamanda - 25/Jul/04
Polished, but good climbing to be had
mick whiteoak - 31/May/04
If u want to get to grips with grit there are few better places than Ilkley. If ur doing ur first lead or E7 there is something there for u and one of the best walls of VS climbs anywhere. S Crack and Walewska are worth the trip alone - just hope u find somewhere to park when the weather is good
howard - 14/Mar/02
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 *** ROUTES *** 
 Doris Buttress 
3Vital Spark
-
S 14
4Sinister CracksVD 125
5Sinister RibE3 5b *60
6BlackballE3 5c *26
7DorisS 3c **204
8Bald PateE1 5a *26
9Doris Direct
-
E4 7a **1
10Bald Pate Super DirectE6 6c * 
11Bald Pate Direct StartE2 5b **7
12DeathwatchE7 6b *29
13Little Kaiser
-
HS 4b 17
14Grand as OwtE3 6a 1
15Where Blue Tits Dare
-
E4 6b  
16SerendipityE2 5b *18
17Piton WallHVS 5a **57
18Transparent WallHVS 5a **138
19Sticky FingersE2 5c *36
20Magic Pie
-
HS 4b 6
21Desperate Dredd (Left Slab Variation)E3 5c  
22Desperate DreddE4 6a 7
 The Quarry 
24Highfield CornerHVS 5a 18
25NailbiteVD *381
26Central WallE1 5b 14
27Central Rib
-
HVS 5a 6
28Sand ChimneyVD *77
29Wellington Chimney
-
D *28
30Demolition DerbyHS 4a 10
31Overhanging Blocks
-
HVS 5a 3
32The Stomach Traverse
-
HS 4a 7
33Wellington CrackE4 5c ***88
34LoadedE8 7a *1
35Snap DecisionE7 6c **9
36Shadowlands
-
MS 20
37Jiggery Not PokeryHVS 5b 3
38Curving CracksVS 5a *194
39Gibbon's WallHS 4c 60
40High StreetE3 5c **20
41Curving CornerHVS 5b 20
42Letter Box CrackHS 4b 80
43Peg Wallf6B+ 39
44Peg CrackHVS 5a *294
45Corner And Scoop
-
HS 4a 19
46Quatre BrasE1 5b *2
47The Maid of WakefieldE4 6b *1
48GuillotineE6 *28
49Big BudE6 6c 1
50Unexpected Journey
-
E6 6b * 
51Thompson's CrackVS 4c **14
52Into The Great Wide OpenE4 5c 3
53Propeller WallE4 5c 16
54TurbopropE5 6b 2
55Old CrackVS 4b *374
56S CrackVS 4c ***912
57Fairy Wall (S Crack Start)HVS 5a **13
58Fairy WallE2 5c 65
59Fairy StepsHVD *639
60Fairy Steps (direct start)
-
MS *133
61V ChimneyVS 5a 27
62Cherry Valley RibHVS 5a *142
63Josephine Super DirectVS 4b **428
64Josephine DirectHS 4b *176
65Little JohnE1 5b 35
66Short CircuitE2 5c *86
67Hipgnosis
-
E3 6b 1
68JosephineHS 4b **461
69The Girdle TraverseVS 4c **4
70NapoleonVS 4c *311
71BlucherVS 4c *361
72Tufted CrackE1 5c **422
73Waterloo
-
E2 6a 5
74WalewskaVS 4c ***772
75Walewska Variation
-
VS 5a **22
76Josephine Traverse
-
HS 4b *35
77Warriors of the Wasteland
-
E6 6b 1
78Not Tonight Josephine
-
E3 6a 3
79Optimus PrimeE5 6b 1
80Botterill's CrackHVS 5a *74
81Flake CrackHS 4a *412
82Flake Crack Direct
-
E2 6a 22
83UnknownHVD 6
 Central Area 
85Old SpiceE2 5b *49
86LadybirdHVD *137
87Eastern Night
-
MS 22
88Nightshade
-
HS 4b *31
89Dead Of Night
-
HVS 5a 5
90Evening Wall
-
VS 4c *31
91Cold ChiselHS 4b 27
92ChisellerS 4a *305
93GazS 4b 22
 The Cow 
95Cow CrackVD *102
96Cow FlapVS 5a 6
97Cow RibHVS 5a **23
98A ClimbS 4b ***351
99A Climb Alternative Finish
-
HVS 5b *7
100FerdinandHS 4a **63
101Ferdinand Hand Traverse
-
VS 4c 19
102Voyage To The Outer Limits
-
E6 6b 1
103Desperate DanE6 6b **12
104Cow UdderE1 5a *123
105Mad Dogs
-
E3 5c *6
106The Black and White Days
-
E5 6b * 
107Gerty BerwickE9 7b *** 
108The Lizard KingE9 7a **1
109The New StatesmanE8 7a ***7
110Milky WayE6 6b ***11
111Mars Bar
-
E6 6c  
112Galaxy
-
E6 6b *1
113Outspan
-
E6 6c  
114The Marine Who Slept InE5 6a *2
115Fast ForwardE6 6c **1
116Hand JiveE2 5c *3
117The Sentinel
-
VD 23
 The Calf 
119The Early Starterf6B *4
120The Chipped Steps.M *101
 Bowling Forre Boulders - (Western Buttresses) 
122In A Pickle
-
E6 6b 1
123Captain B.O.'s Kiss Of Death
-
E3 6b  
124Butch Crack
-
HVS 5b 1
125Cassidy's Crawl
-
VS 5a *1
126Lost Boots
-
VS 4c *49
127Patience
-
HVS 5b *27
128Waiting Room
-
E2 6a 7
129Little Hole
-
E2 6a  
130Big HoleE1 5c 15
131Doing the Business
-
E3 6b * 
132Green Chimney
-
HVS 5a 3
133First Arete
-
E3 6b 9
134Three MantelsS 6
135Second Arete
-
VD 17
 Far Western Buttress 
137Olicana Crack
-
VS 5b 5
138Romans Rib
-
E5 6c  
139Carrie
-
E3 6a  
 Forgotten Buttress 
141Forgotten Buttress
-
S 4a 10
142Double Crack
-
VD 12
143Mantelshelf Arete
-
S 4a *9
 *** BOULDERING *** 
 CD Area 1 - Two Little Fins 
146CD 1 - Problem 1V0 2
147CD 1 - Problem 4V0 1
148CD 1 - Problem 7VB 2
 CD Area 2 - TC Area 1 - Bald Pate 
150CD 2 - Problem 5V2 1
 CD Area 3 - Square Face 
152CD 3 - Problem 3V3 1
153CD 3 - Problem 4V0 4
154CD 3 - Problem 5V3 1
155CD 3 - Problem 6V0- 4
156CD 3 - Problem 7VB 3
157Nailbite
-
VB 6
158CD 3 - Problem 9V0 2
159CD 3 - Problem 10V0- 1
160CD 3 - Problem 11VB 1
 Square Face Eliminates 
162Problem 1 - Square Face Eliminates
-
V1 5
163Problem 5 - Square Face Eliminates
-
V1 4
 CD Area 4 - Letterbox Crack 
165Peg Wall EliminateV6 1
 CD Area 5 - TC Area 9 b - Short Circuit 
167Ground Crewf4+ 1
168Other Ranksf5+ 1
169Other Ranks Eliminate If6A *1
170Other Ranks Eliminate IIf6A *1
171S Crack to Fairy Steps TraverseV2 9
172S Crack Slapf6C+ 5
173Little John Directf6C *15
174Short Circuitf6A 46
 CD Area 6 - TC Area 9b - Earwig Rib 
176Spider Wallf6A 52
177Earwig Ribf6B *42
178Earwig Rib SD
-
f7A+ *7
 CD Area 7 - TC Area 2 & 3c - The Cindy Crawford Workout 
 Warm Up Slab 
181Introductory Slabf2 *2
 First Slab 
183First Slab
-
f4+ 1
184Second Slab
-
f4+ 2
 Mars Bar 
186Slab Layback
-
f4+ 3
187CD 7 - Problem 12f6B 1
188Biterf6C 1
189King Size Mars Barf5 1
 Fat Sloper 
191Top Slabf4+ 1
192Slab Traversef6A 1
193Fat Sloperf6B  
 Black Porsche 
195Corner Slabf2+ 1
 Tall Thin Slab 
197CD 7 - Problem 15f4+ 10
198Slab Directf6C 5
199Flake Indirectf6B 4
200Gully Wallf6B+ *8
201Hanging Aretef6A+ 1
 Mantel 
203Mantelf6A+  
204Low Block Leftf5  
205Low Block Traversef6B+  
206Low Block Rightf6A  
 CD Area 8 - Tc Area 3 a & b - Baby Spice 
208CD 8 - Problem 1f4 1
209Old Spicef5  
210Baby Spicef7A+ *15
211Ron's Traversef7A *21
212CD 8 - Problem 13VB 9
213Duskyf4 4
 CD Area 9 - Left Side of The Cow 
215CD 9 - Problem 8VB 1
216CD 9 - Problem 9V3 *1
217Slopersf5+ 1
218CD 9 - Problem 13V2 1
219Bah'tat Traversef6C 1
 CD Area 10 - TC Area 4 - The Calf 
221Yorkshire Grit - Problem 4 - The CalfV8 *3
222Bonnington's Book Problemf5 **20
223Car Park Crackf5+ **50
224Car Park Wall Eliminatef7A+ 2
225Super Setf7C+ *7
226The Hiestf7A+  
227Facet Wallf6C *10
228The Easy WayV1 **11
229Calf Arete
-
f2 4
230Under the Stairsf5 16
231CD 10 - Problem 19V7 2
232The Ringf5+ *24
233The Ring Eliminatef6A 5
234Ringpiecef7C **54
235Late Feverf7B+  
236CD 10 - Problem 22
-
V0 2
237Pebble Groovef5 ***51
238Pebble Dashf8A *** 
 The Back of The Calf (TC Area 4b) 
240Calf Dynof5 **105
241Three More Repsf7B+ *3
242The Mid-Height Traversef7B+ ***4
243Piccachu Challenge
-
f7C+ *1
244Almost Pleasant
-
f6C+ **25
245TC Area 4b Problem 5f7B 3
246Bernie The Boltf7C **4
247The PinchV8 **1
248Al's ProblemV9  
249Back of the Calf - Problem 15
-
V6 *1
250Back of the Calf - Problem 16
-
V5 *4
251Back of The Calf - Problem 17
-
V6 3
252Back of the Calf - Problem 18f7C **1
253Back of the Calf - Problem 19V6 2
254Back of the Calf - Problem 26V8 1
255Cindy Crawfordf7B+ ***3
256Gnomef6B *27
 CD Area 11 - The Sentinel 
258Alan B'stardf7A+ 1
259CD 11 - Problem 2V0- 1
260CD 11 - Problem 8V3 1
261CD 11 - Problem 9V0 1
262CD 11 - Problem 10V0 1
263CD 11 - Problem 11V0 1
264CD 11 - Problem 12VB 1
265CD 11 - Problem 13VB 1
 CD Area 12 - TC Area 5 - Ian's Roof (Bowling Forre Boulders) 
267Ian's Rooff7B+  
268CD 12 - Problem 1VB 1
269CD 12 - Problem 3V2 1
270CD 12 - Problem 4VB 1
271CD 12 - Problem 5VB 1
272CD 12 - Problem 6VB 1
273CD 12 - Problem 8VB 1
274CD 12 - Problem 15V4 1
275CD 12 - Problem 18V0 1
276CD 12 - Problem 20VB 1
 Yorkshire Grit Boulder 
278CD 12 - Problem 21V1 2
279Robin
-
f6C 1
280Arnf6A+ 1
281Chef Recommendsf7A *2
282CD 12 - Problem 23V2 2
283CD 12 - Problem 24V1 2
 CD Area 13 - TC Area 6 - Lost Boots 
285CD 13 - Problem 1VB 6
286CD 13 - Problem 2VB 5
287CD 13 - Problem 3VB 4
288CD 13 - Problem 4VB 6
289Losing Patience - CD 13 - Problem 9f6C *6
290Lost Boys
-
f6C+ 3
291Eliminate Traversef7B 1
292Patiencef5 10
293CD 13 - Problem 12
-
V0 5
294CD 13 - Problem 13V4 6
295First Things Firstf7A+ ***7
296First Arete
-
f7A+ *10
297I Am Curious Yellow
-
f7C+ ***4
 CD Area 14 - Under Lost Boots 
299Slab Left Wallf4+ 1
300Slab Nose
-
f4+ 6
301Slab Travf6B+ 6
302Slab Centref5+ 3
303Slab Right
-
f4 9
304CD 14 - Problem 5
-
VB 4
305CD 14 - Problem 5aV1 3
306Gully Traversef6A+ *7
307Bee Gullyf5  
308Cee Gullyf6A  
 CD Area 15 - TC Area 7 - Olicana Buttress 
310Olicana Aretef7A 34
311Agricola
-
f6C 3
312The Easy Crew
-
f5 5
313Spartacus
-
f6C *7
314Constantine
-
f6C 2
315Boudiccaf7A+ 11
316Chariots of Firef6C 4
317Chariots Of Fire Eliminatef7B+ *4
 Forgotten Buttress 
319Triceratopsf4 *3
 Unconfirmed Climbs 
321Little Cow
-
VD 1
322TramlineMVS 4b 1
 Routes Added from Rockfax Book 

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