UKC

Climbs 275
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 300m a.s.l
Faces SW

Peter 'pencil in another problem' phillips strikes again... © peterp

Crag features

Originally included in the North of England Guide (by Stew Wilson and Ron Kenyon) based on details in October 1964 Climber magazine - because YMC did not think it was worth including in the grit guide (back in prehistoric times)

Then in YMC grit guide and second edition of North of England guide and also in North East England selective guide. New NE England guide coming out sometime soon.

As a crag it was a bit small in stature but as a bouldering venue it is brilliant - as its recent prominence has shown. It was amazing who had climbed there even before the current publicity - even saw the great John Allen there one day.

Approach notes

Due to the new popularity of the crag important to follow access details and park responsibly. Road up valley is narrow but look for the parking and a few hundred yards walking (if necessary) shouldn't do any harm - and will help the access situation.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

Northern England

The book is a selected route and crag guide although it still manages to pack over 2350 routes between its covers, spread across 44 crags. The main focus is on routes of all grades from Moderate to E9, but the best bouldering is also described.
More info
Grades need updating to the new guide. Especially the rediculous trad graded boulder problems...
Smelly Fox - 13/Dec/14
Superb rock quality.
glaramara - 25/Oct/14
Link to useful topo http://www.yorkshiregrit.com/yg/topo/slipstones.pdf
Ian Broome - 11/Dec/11
Why are so many of the routes which are clearly boulder problems (e.g. lay-by, slanting flake etc.) still given route grades? It's not the 1980's. I understand for the borderline height ones, but not for 3m high... please could the crag mod sort this out
lukehodson - 06/Sep/10
good place but someone has broken slanted crack hs 4b and now its a little harder to do
insert - 19/Jun/08
outstanding crag, something for everyone, can be VERY windy at times. had a thoroughly enjoyable day there. a really good place to push your grade, but take a mat and some big mates!
rain dog... - 27/Sep/04
wide variety of excellent problems and routes for most ranges and nice setting what more dop you need.
jas wood - 30/Apr/04
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Buttress 1 - Far Left Buttress
2 Extremities E1 5c 78
3 Paul's Arete Left Side E2 6a * 27
4 Paul's Arete Right Hand f5 *** 172
5 Steve's Wall f5 ** 151
6 Heather Crack D 149
7 Heather Wall f4 21
8 Heather Wall Right Hand f2+ 34
  Buttress 2 - Escalator Wall
10 Roofed Corner D 176
11 Little Arete f4 33
12 Little Corner D 141
13 Fingercrack corner VD * 42
14 Overhanging Crack VD 219
15 Undercut Double Crack HS 4b * 257
16 Ginger Badger HVS 5b 33
17 Not So Tight Chimney HVD * 204
18 Breakwind Arete HVS 5c 66
19 Space Truckin E1 5b * 81
20 Escalator HVS 5b ** 222
21 Diminuendo HVS 5c * 16
22 Mantelshelf Crack VD 259
23 Rouges Gallery VS 5a 7
24 Staircase M * 223
25 Mantelshelf Wall
-
VS 4c 118
26 Cold Wall
-
VS 4c 75
27 Hole in the Wall
-
HS 4b 102
  Buttress 3 - Beldin Block
29 Left Edge
-
f2+ d 107
30 Inside Left
-
S 4a 75
31 Old Corner
-
VD 175
32 Petch's Groove S 4a 209
33 Groove Eliminate
-
HS 4b 73
34 Twenty Foot Crack VD 290
35 North Wall
-
HVS 5b 53
36 Offspring HVS 5c 16
37 Tranmire Arete S 4a ** 387
38 Tranmire Crack VS 4c 137
39 Jenny Binks Wall VS 5a * 92
40 Twixt HVS 5a 17
41 Easy Pickings VS 4c ** 127
42 The Handrail HVS 5a 6
43 West face eliminate E2 6a 8
44 Low Level Traverse f6B+ 6b ** 7
45 Beldin Direct HVS 5b * 22
46 Beldin Variation E1 5b * 19
47 Beldin HVS 5b *** 70
48 Original Route HVS 5a *** 134
49 gollinglith E2 5c * 74
50 Tachyon E2 5c ** 10
51 Zoom HVS 5c *** 126
52 Atomic E3 6b * 45
53 Atomic Right-Hand E3 6b * 1
54 Barnley Crack S 4a * 179
55 Barnley Wall HS 4b * 140
56 Ulfers Crack VD * 138
  Buttress 4 - Wise Crack
58 Forever Onward E1 5b 24
59 Timeless Divide f6A 25
60 Variation Start E2 6c 2
61 Timeless Divide Start f6A+ 6a 30
62 Timeless Divide - Right Hand f6C 6c ** 26
63 Agrete f5+ 30
64 Agra Direct f5+ * 33
65 Agra HVS 5b *** 125
66 Agra Right Hand HVS 5b 8
67 Agra Variation (Whimps Finish) VS 4b 22
68 Narrow Margin E2 6a 1
69 Wisecrack E1 6a *** 57
70 Wisecrack Direct Start f6C * 39
71 Wisecrack Superdirect f7B 18
72 Alan's Arete VS 4c 39
73 Mark Turner's Rockover
-
VS 5a 17
74 Shine On VD 198
75 Hendo's 4c Rockover V1 4c 2
76 Mantel On S 4b 186
77 Groove On
-
f3 155
  Buttress 5 - Bait
79 Wall Climb
-
D 120
80 Block Arete HS 4b * 93
81 Beta Blocker E1 5b * 16
82 Impregnable E2 6a ** 23
83 Get Nervous E2 5c 2
84 Chockstone Overhang HS 4b 37
  Buttress 6 - Squawks
86 Self Suicide f7B+ * 22
87 Squawk's Arete HVS 5b * 19
88 Undercut Flake Variations HS 4b * 53
89 Undercut Flake HS 4b ** 254
90 Tilt VS 5a 13
91 Flakeout Arete HVS 5a * 19
92 Dark Cleft VD 43
93 Face to Face
-
VS 4b 7
  Buttress 7 - Sevens & Eights
95 Forever Young E2 6a ** 4
96 Seven Up - Variation Start
-
E3 6a 11
97 Seven Up E2 5c ** 42
98 Direct Variations E3 6a * 1
99 Direct Finish (to Seven Up) E3 6a 3
100 Fuser S 4a 126
101 Tony's Torment HVS 6a 22
102 Ian's Irritation f6B+ 2
Climb name Grade
103 Wedge Down Crack HS 4b 71
  Buttress 8 - Sevens & Eights
105 Thingumy In Thirsk E3 6a 9
106 Dennis In Darlo E1 5c ** 84
107 Barren Waste E2 5c 16
108 Easy Groove D 123
109 Edge Route M 123
  Buttress 9 - Inconsequential Wall
111 Inconsequential Traverse none 5c 7
112 Little Arete
-
VD 55
113 Roofed Chimney
-
M 51
114 Awkward Finish
-
D 54
115 Staircase Mantel
-
D 45
  Buttress 10 - Sowden
117 Low Level Traverse HVS 5b 4
118 Chris Cross E1 5c 3
119 Left Arete
-
VD 68
120 Frank's Wall
-
D 33
121 Scratch and Go
-
VD 37
122 Right Arete
-
VD 82
123 Problem Wall HVS 5b * 11
124 Left Wall VD * 92
125 Sowden left hand E1 5b * 19
126 Sowden HVS 5a ** 107
127 Sinbad E3 6b * 10
128 Space plucks E3 6a * 12
129 Forthright E2 5c * 9
130 Dixon's Dilemma VS 4c 21
131 Witton Wall S 4b 44
  Buttress 11 - Lean Buttress
133 Half Way Chockstone D 73
134 Central Bay Route VD 81
135 Psyche HVS 5c 6
136 Leany Meany E1 5c * 22
137 Ripper Traverse f4 3
138 Killer E4 6b 11
139 Ripper E1 6a *** 115
140 Ripper Right Hand E3 6c 1
141 Cyclops E2 5c *  
142 Cyclone f8A+ **  
143 Unforgiven E1 5c * 1
144 Emergency hat HS 5a/b 5
145 The Fox HS 5b 4
  Buttress 12 - Marr's
147 Picnic Wall D 100
148 Cummin's Route f5 72
149 Christopher Robin VS 4b * 147
150 Right Wall f5 66
151 Marr's Route VS 5a ** 98
152 Da's Route VS 5a 33
153 Moderator M 103
154 Pa's Route S 4b 133
155 Gully Wall
-
S 4b 52
156 Little Gully
-
M 57
  Buttress 13 - Left Twin
158 Friday The Thirteenth f6A 33
159 sunday 20th f6B+ * 68
160 Slipway f6B 10
  Buttress 13 - Right Twin
162 Siamese Bridge D 76
163 Right Hand Twin f5+ ** 167
164 Leaning Wall f6C * 84
165 Strictly Personal f6A+ * 44
166 Brush Up f5 4
  Buttress 14 - The Deck
168 Pothole Chimney D 37
169 Jack's Young Lad f3+ 1
170 Jack the Lad HS 4b 85
171 String Vest HVS 6a 17
172 Withering Heights HVS 5c * 18
173 Aces High Left Hand
-
VS 4c 11
174 Aces High VS 4c ** 195
175 Aces High Right Hand
-
S 4b 16
176 Trumps VS 4c * 81
177 Trumps Right Hand HS 4b 78
  Buttress 15 - Ellingstring Buttress
179 Heather Wall
-
D 116
180 Itchy and Scratchy VD 137
181 Pinnacle Chimney D 177
182 Having a Nice Lay Down f6A+ 1
183 Two Startled Sheep VS 5b 42
184 Yaud Wall VS 5a 152
185 Y'Auld Bugger VS 5b * 2
186 Ellingstring VS 4c ** 229
187 Diagonal VS 4c * 215
188 Gymnast VS 5c 34
189 Fiddlesticks VS 5b 44
190 Girgle VD 32
  Buttress 16 - Stainthorpe's Wall
192 Sweet Sixteen VD 56
193 Fearby VS 4b 106
194 Alan's Wall HVS 5a ** 74
195 Stainthorpe's Wall E1 5b * 127
196 Stainthorps Variation Start E1 5c * 52
197 Only Sixteen f6A+ 33
198 Fascionationby E2 5c 19
  Buttress 17 - Happy Daze
200 Jug Handle Pull Up VD 158
201 Wall Centre VS 4c * 158
202 Happy Daze VS 4c 116
203 Double Mantleshelf VD 198
204 Out on Bail HVS 5c 41
Climb name Grade
205 Right Edge HVS 5c * 81
  Buttress 18 - Worthless Buttress
207 Easy Mantleshelf
-
D 33
208 Right ArĂȘte VD 26
  Buttress 19 - Lay By
210 Rock Over f4 66
211 Hand Traverse D * 101
212 Lullaby Arete f7C+ **  
213 Lay-By Arete f7B+ *** 47
214 Lay-by Arete Direct f7C *** 1
215 Lay-by f6A+ *** 221
216 Little Baldy f6C+ * 10
217 Rock On Left-hand f6A+ * 77
218 Rock On f5+ * 107
219 Rock Off f5 50
220 All Off f4+ 62
  Buttress 20 - Overhanging Arete
222 Ten Foot Moderate M 138
223 Ten Foot Arete f4 68
224 Twenty Something f4 165
225 Overhanging Arete f6A * 223
226 Reason and Rowan f6A+ 16
227 Flaky Wall f5 272
228 Flakey Wall Traverse V5 ** 37
229 Left Wall HVD 107
230 Two Chockstones D 124
231 Right Overhang D 65
  Lower Tier - Tea Party Slabs
233 Welcome Wall f3+ 336
234 A welcome Traverse f6A ** 1
235 Stereo Android f4 283
236 Stereo Android Eliminate f6A 5c 27
237 Stereo Right Hand S 171
238 Tommy's Dilemma VD 472
239 Gypsy Wham VD 418
240 Tea Party Slab f4+ 345
241 Question of Balance f5+ * 357
242 Right Edge (II) f5 314
  The Son - Middle Tier - (Steptoe & Son)
244 Son of a Bitch HVS 5c 3
245 Criminal case f4+ 1
246 Super Furry Animal f8A+  
247 Sidewinder f7A 9
248 Exocet f8A 2
249 Stipule f7C 5
250 Stipule (with jug on arete) f7A+ 21
251 Curving Crack VS 4c 103
252 Curving Crack Arete f5 106
253 Curving Crack Arete Sit Down Start f6A 155
  Steptoe - Middle Tier - (Steptoe & Son)
255 Bert Wells f5+ 67
256 Centre Left f5+ 115
257 Steptoe f6A+ ** 123
258 Tiptoe f5 ** 456
259 Tiptoe right-hand VS 5b * 15
260 Bridge Chimney
-
D 40
261 No Cheek, Dr Livingstone VS 4b 12
262 Shorty's Dilemma
-
V3 20
  The Left Cheek - The Upper Tier
264 Stomach Traverse none amusin * 39
265 Bratt Pack
-
VS 4c 38
266 Play a long
-
HVS 5b 17
267 Wild Thing
-
VS 4b 36
268 Cunning Stunts
-
V3 5c 8
  The Right Cheek - Upper Tier
270 Micro Wall f6C 1
271 Micro Corner f7A ** 86
272 Micro Coronary f7B+ ** 1
273 Problem Arete
-
VS 4c 107
274 Slab and Mantelshelf
-
M 41
275 Left Arete (II) D 111
276 Tea's Maid f3 9
277 Goblin's Ear
-
VD 150
278 Goblins There f4+ 9
  Buttress 22 - All the Twos
280 3.3 Metre Slab HS 4b 110
281 Ten Foot Slab D 128
282 Davies Arete V1 * 32
283 Davies Ramp f6B 69
284 Simple Sally f7A+ * 45
285 Holeshot f7C * 3
286 Small Dyno V3 * 7
287 Anniemutt f7C+ *  
288 Cypher f8B *** 1
289 All the Two's f6B+ * 1
290 Chockstone Pull Up D 128
  Sulky Little Boys
292 Dry Slap f6B+ **  
293 Supple Wall f7A+ *** 56
294 Sulky little boys left hand V4 **  
295 Sulky Little Boys f7A+ *** 103
296 Sulky Little Boys Direct V8 *** 13
297 Slanting Flake -LH f5+ * 256
298 Slanting Flake f3+ ** 510
299 Everything Counts V9 6c 1
  Boulder Britain Boulder
301 Ramp f2 7
302 Flakes f3 6
303 Arete f2 8
304 Slab f3 7
  Unconfirmed

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