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UKClimbing Team

Climbs 278
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 300m a.s.l
Faces SW

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Peter 'pencil in another problem' phillips strikes again... © peterp

Crag features

Originally included in the North of England Guide (by Stew Wilson and Ron Kenyon) based on details in October 1964 Climber magazine - because YMC did not think it was worth including in the grit guide (back in prehistoric times)

Then in YMC grit guide and second edition of North of England guide and also in North East England selective guide. New NE England guide coming out sometime soon.

As a crag it was a bit small in stature but as a bouldering venue it is brilliant - as its recent prominence has shown. It was amazing who had climbed there even before the current publicity - even saw the great John Allen there one day.

Approach notes

Due to the new popularity of the crag important to follow access details and park responsibly. Road up valley is narrow but look for the parking and a few hundred yards walking (if necessary) shouldn't do any harm - and will help the access situation.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

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Guidebooks

Northern England

The book is a selected route and crag guide although it still manages to pack over 2350 routes between its covers, spread across 44 crags. The main focus is on routes of all grades from Moderate to E9, but the best bouldering is also described.
More info
Grades need updating to the new guide. Especially the rediculous trad graded boulder problems...
Smelly Fox - 13/Dec/14
Superb rock quality.
glaramara - 25/Oct/14
Link to useful topo http://www.yorkshiregrit.com/yg/topo/slipstones.pdf
Ian Broome - 11/Dec/11
Why are so many of the routes which are clearly boulder problems (e.g. lay-by, slanting flake etc.) still given route grades? It's not the 1980's. I understand for the borderline height ones, but not for 3m high... please could the crag mod sort this out
lukehodson - 06/Sep/10
good place but someone has broken slanted crack hs 4b and now its a little harder to do
insert - 19/Jun/08
outstanding crag, something for everyone, can be VERY windy at times. had a thoroughly enjoyable day there. a really good place to push your grade, but take a mat and some big mates!
rain dog... - 27/Sep/04
wide variety of excellent problems and routes for most ranges and nice setting what more dop you need.
jas wood - 30/Apr/04
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Buttress 1 - Far Left Buttress
2 Extremities E1 5c 80
3 Paul's Arete Left Side E2 6a * 31
4 Paul's Arete Right Hand f5 *** 186
5 Steve's Wall f5 ** 167
6 Heather Crack D 157
7 Heather Wall f4 25
8 Heather Wall Right Hand f2+ 38
9 Ian's Lob E3 6b ** 1
  Buttress 2 - Escalator Wall
11 Roofed Corner D 186
12 Little Arete f4 37
13 Little Corner D 152
14 Fingercrack corner VD * 48
15 Overhanging Crack VD 234
16 Undercut Double Crack HS 4b * 280
17 Ginger Badger HVS 5b 34
18 Not So Tight Chimney HVD * 218
19 Breakwind Arete HVS 5c 74
20 Space Truckin E1 5b * 87
21 Escalator HVS 5b ** 242
22 Diminuendo HVS 5c * 17
23 Mantelshelf Crack VD 273
24 Rouges Gallery VS 5a 7
25 Staircase M * 241
26 Mantelshelf Wall
-
VS 4c 128
27 Cold Wall
-
VS 4c 77
28 Hole in the Wall
-
HS 4b 109
  Buttress 3 - Beldin Block
30 Left Edge
-
f2+ d 112
31 Inside Left
-
S 4a 80
32 Old Corner
-
VD 180
33 Petch's Groove S 4a 218
34 Groove Eliminate
-
HS 4b 79
35 Twenty Foot Crack VD 305
36 North Wall
-
HVS 5b 53
37 Offspring HVS 5c 16
38 Tranmire Arete S 4a ** 405
39 Tranmire Crack VS 4c 144
40 Jenny Binks Wall VS 5a * 95
41 Twixt HVS 5a 19
42 Easy Pickings VS 4c ** 145
43 The Handrail HVS 5a 6
44 West face eliminate E2 6a 8
45 Low Level Traverse f6B+ 6b ** 7
46 Beldin Direct HVS 5b * 25
47 Beldin Variation E1 5b * 24
48 Beldin HVS 5b *** 78
49 Original Route HVS 5a *** 154
50 gollinglith E2 5c * 85
51 Tachyon E2 5c ** 11
52 Zoom HVS 5c *** 140
53 Atomic E3 6b * 53
54 Atomic Right-Hand E3 6b * 1
55 Barnley Crack S 4a * 191
56 Barnley Wall HS 4b * 152
57 Ulfers Crack VD * 147
  Buttress 4 - Wise Crack
59 Forever Onward E1 5b 25
60 Timeless Divide f6A 27
61 Variation Start E2 6c 5
62 Timeless Divide Start f6A+ 6a 31
63 Timeless Divide - Right Hand f6C 6c ** 32
64 Agrete f5+ 34
65 Agra Direct f5+ * 35
66 Agra HVS 5b *** 140
67 Agra Right Hand HVS 5b 8
68 Agra Variation (Whimps Finish) VS 4b 25
69 Narrow Margin E2 6a 1
70 Wisecrack E1 6a *** 69
71 Wisecrack Direct Start f6C * 44
72 Wisecrack Superdirect f7B 20
73 Alan's Arete VS 4c 44
74 Mark Turner's Rockover
-
VS 5a 17
75 Shine On VD 214
76 Hendo's 4c Rockover V1 4c 2
77 Mantel On S 4b 196
78 Groove On
-
f3 163
  Buttress 5 - Bait
80 Wall Climb
-
D 124
81 Block Arete HS 4b * 98
82 Beta Blocker E1 5b * 18
83 Impregnable E2 6a ** 25
84 Get Nervous E2 5c 2
85 Chockstone Overhang HS 4b 37
  Buttress 6 - Squawks
87 Self Suicide f7B+ * 28
88 Squawk's Arete HVS 5b * 20
89 Undercut Flake Variations HS 4b * 62
90 Undercut Flake HS 4b ** 281
91 Tilt VS 5a 13
92 Flakeout Arete HVS 5a * 20
93 Dark Cleft VD 48
94 Face to Face
-
VS 4b 7
  Buttress 7 - Sevens & Eights
96 Forever Young E2 6a ** 5
97 Seven Up - Variation Start
-
E3 6a 15
98 Seven Up E2 5c ** 47
99 Direct Variations E3 6a * 1
100 Direct Finish (to Seven Up) E3 6a 3
101 Fuser S 4a 134
102 Tony's Torment HVS 6a 27
103 Ian's Irritation f6B+ 2
Climb name Grade
104 Wedge Down Crack HS 4b 71
  Buttress 8 - Sevens & Eights
106 Thingumy In Thirsk E3 6a 14
107 Dennis In Darlo E1 5c ** 99
108 Barren Waste E2 5c 19
109 Little Willy E1 5c 1
110 Easy Groove D 130
111 Edge Route M 133
  Buttress 9 - Inconsequential Wall
113 Inconsequential Traverse none 5c 7
114 Little Arete
-
VD 55
115 Roofed Chimney
-
M 52
116 Awkward Finish
-
D 54
117 Staircase Mantel
-
D 45
  Buttress 10 - Sowden
119 Low Level Traverse HVS 5b 4
120 Chris Cross E1 5c 3
121 Left Arete
-
VD 70
122 Frank's Wall
-
D 33
123 Scratch and Go
-
VD 37
124 Right Arete
-
VD 85
125 Problem Wall HVS 5b * 11
126 Left Wall VD * 95
127 Sowden left hand E1 5b * 22
128 Sowden HVS 5a ** 120
129 Sinbad E3 6b * 15
130 Space plucks E3 6a * 17
131 Forthright E2 5c * 11
132 Dixon's Dilemma VS 4c 21
133 Witton Wall S 4b 46
  Buttress 11 - Lean Buttress
135 Half Way Chockstone D 79
136 Central Bay Route VD 85
137 Psyche HVS 5c 6
138 Leany Meany E1 5c * 25
139 Ripper Traverse f4 3
140 Killer E4 6b 17
141 Ripper E1 6a *** 127
142 Ripper Right Hand E3 6c 1
143 Cyclops E2 5c *  
144 Cyclone f8A+ **  
145 Unforgiven E1 5c * 1
146 Emergency hat HS 5a/b 5
147 The Fox HS 5b 4
  Buttress 12 - Marr's
149 Picnic Wall D 102
150 Cummin's Route f5 75
151 Christopher Robin VS 4b * 154
152 Right Wall f5 74
153 Marr's Route VS 5a ** 103
154 Da's Route VS 5a 35
155 Moderator M 106
156 Pa's Route S 4b 142
157 Gully Wall
-
S 4b 53
158 Little Gully
-
M 57
  Buttress 13 - Left Twin
160 Friday The Thirteenth f6A 35
161 sunday 20th f6B+ * 83
162 Slipway f6B 13
  Buttress 13 - Right Twin
164 Siamese Bridge D 82
165 Right Hand Twin f5+ ** 177
166 Leaning Wall f6C * 96
167 Strictly Personal f6A+ * 50
168 Brush Up f5 4
  Buttress 14 - The Deck
170 Pothole Chimney D 37
171 Jack's Young Lad f3+ 1
172 Jack the Lad HS 4b 88
173 String Vest HVS 6a 18
174 Withering Heights HVS 5c * 21
175 Aces High Left Hand
-
VS 4c 12
176 Aces High VS 4c ** 217
177 Aces High Right Hand
-
S 4b 17
178 Trumps VS 4c * 88
179 Trumps Right Hand HS 4b 81
  Buttress 15 - Ellingstring Buttress
181 Heather Wall
-
D 123
182 Itchy and Scratchy VD 147
183 Pinnacle Chimney D 191
184 Having a Nice Lay Down f6A+ 1
185 Two Startled Sheep VS 5b 43
186 Yaud Wall VS 5a 158
187 Y'Auld Bugger VS 5b * 2
188 Ellingstring VS 4c ** 257
189 Diagonal VS 4c * 239
190 Gymnast VS 5c 35
191 Fiddlesticks VS 5b 44
192 Girgle VD 33
  Buttress 16 - Stainthorpe's Wall
194 Sweet Sixteen VD 57
195 Fearby VS 4b 110
196 Alan's Wall HVS 5a ** 79
197 Stainthorpe's Wall E1 5b * 136
198 Stainthorps Variation Start E1 5c * 56
199 Only Sixteen f6A+ 35
200 Fascionationby E2 5c 22
  Buttress 17 - Happy Daze
202 Jug Handle Pull Up VD 170
203 Wall Centre VS 4c * 175
204 Happy Daze VS 4c 128
205 Double Mantleshelf VD 212
206 Out on Bail HVS 5c 45
Climb name Grade
207 Right Edge HVS 5c * 86
  Buttress 18 - Worthless Buttress
209 Easy Mantleshelf
-
D 34
210 Right ArĂȘte VD 27
  Buttress 19 - Lay By
212 Rock Over f4 70
213 Hand Traverse D * 107
214 Lullaby Arete f7C+ **  
215 Lay-By Arete f7B+ *** 64
216 Lay-by Arete Direct f7C *** 5
217 Lay-by f6A+ *** 237
218 Little Baldy f6C+ * 14
219 Rock On Left-hand f6A+ * 84
220 Rock On f5+ * 113
221 Rock Off f5 53
222 All Off f4+ 65
  Buttress 20 - Overhanging Arete
224 Ten Foot Moderate M 151
225 Ten Foot Arete f4 78
226 Twenty Something f4 183
227 Overhanging Arete f6A * 249
228 Reason and Rowan f6A+ 20
229 Flaky Wall f5 293
230 Flakey Wall Traverse V5 ** 44
231 Left Wall HVD 118
232 Two Chockstones D 132
233 Right Overhang D 68
  Lower Tier - Tea Party Slabs
235 Welcome Wall f3+ 374
236 A welcome Traverse f6A ** 4
237 Stereo Android f4 315
238 Stereo Android Eliminate f6A 5c 31
239 Stereo Right Hand S 182
240 Tommy's Dilemma VD * 516
241 Gypsy Wham VD 455
242 Tea Party Slab f4+ 383
243 Question of Balance f5+ * 394
244 Right Edge (II) f5 342
  The Son - Middle Tier - (Steptoe & Son)
246 Son of a Bitch HVS 5c 3
247 Criminal case f4+ 1
248 Super Furry Animal f8A+  
249 Sidewinder f7A 9
250 Exocet f8A 2
251 Stipule f7C 6
252 Stipule (with jug on arete) f7A+ 33
253 Curving Crack VS 4c 108
254 Curving Crack Arete f5 119
255 Curving Crack Arete Sit Down Start f6A 186
  Steptoe - Middle Tier - (Steptoe & Son)
257 Bert Wells f5+ 74
258 Centre Left f5+ 130
259 Steptoe f6A+ ** 140
260 Tiptoe f5 ** 502
261 Tiptoe right-hand VS 5b * 18
262 Bridge Chimney
-
D 41
263 No Cheek, Dr Livingstone VS 4b 12
264 Shorty's Dilemma
-
V3 22
  The Left Cheek - The Upper Tier
266 Stomach Traverse none amusin * 39
267 Bratt Pack
-
VS 4c 39
268 Play a long
-
HVS 5b 18
269 Wild Thing
-
VS 4b 38
270 Cunning Stunts
-
V3 5c 8
  The Right Cheek - Upper Tier
272 Micro Wall f6C 2
273 Micro Corner f7A ** 118
274 Micro Coronary f7B+ ** 1
275 Problem Arete VS 4c 121
276 Slab and Mantelshelf
-
M 42
277 Left Arete (II) D 126
278 Tea's Maid f3 10
279 Goblin's Ear
-
VD 169
280 Goblins There f4+ 13
  Buttress 22 - All the Twos
282 3.3 Metre Slab HS 4b 123
283 Ten Foot Slab D 145
284 Davies Arete V1 * 36
285 Davies Ramp f6B 77
286 Simple Sally f7A+ * 54
287 Holeshot f7C * 5
288 Small Dyno V3 * 7
289 Anniemutt f7C+ *  
290 Cypher f8B *** 2
291 All the Two's f6B+ * 1
292 Chockstone Pull Up D 147
  Sulky Little Boys
294 Dry Slap f6B+ **  
295 Supple Wall f7A+ *** 60
296 Sulky little boys left hand V4 **  
297 Sulky Little Boys f7A+ *** 123
298 Sulky Little Boys Direct V8 *** 20
299 Sulky Little Boys (sit start) f7B+ 3
300 Slanting Flake -LH f5+ * 299
301 Slanting Flake f3+ ** 570
302 Everything Counts V9 6c 1
  Boulder Britain Boulder
304 Ramp f2 8
305 Flakes f3 7
306 Arete f2 9
307 Slab f3 8
  Unconfirmed

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