UKC

Climbs 272
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 300m a.s.l
Faces SW

Peter 'pencil in another problem' phillips strikes again... © peterp

Crag features

Originally included in the North of England Guide (by Stew Wilson and Ron Kenyon) based on details in October 1964 Climber magazine - because YMC did not think it was worth including in the grit guide (back in prehistoric times)

Then in YMC grit guide and second edition of North of England guide and also in North East England selective guide. New NE England guide coming out sometime soon.

As a crag it was a bit small in stature but as a bouldering venue it is brilliant - as its recent prominence has shown. It was amazing who had climbed there even before the current publicity - even saw the great John Allen there one day.

Approach notes

Due to the new popularity of the crag important to follow access details and park responsibly. Road up valley is narrow but look for the parking and a few hundred yards walking (if necessary) shouldn't do any harm - and will help the access situation.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

Northern England

The book is a selected route and crag guide although it still manages to pack over 2350 routes between its covers, spread across 44 crags. The main focus is on routes of all grades from Moderate to E9, but the best bouldering is also described.
More info
Grades need updating to the new guide. Especially the rediculous trad graded boulder problems...
Smelly Fox - 13/Dec/14
Superb rock quality.
glaramara - 25/Oct/14
Link to useful topo http://www.yorkshiregrit.com/yg/topo/slipstones.pdf
Ian Broome - 11/Dec/11
Why are so many of the routes which are clearly boulder problems (e.g. lay-by, slanting flake etc.) still given route grades? It's not the 1980's. I understand for the borderline height ones, but not for 3m high... please could the crag mod sort this out
lukehodson - 06/Sep/10
good place but someone has broken slanted crack hs 4b and now its a little harder to do
insert - 19/Jun/08
outstanding crag, something for everyone, can be VERY windy at times. had a thoroughly enjoyable day there. a really good place to push your grade, but take a mat and some big mates!
rain dog... - 27/Sep/04
wide variety of excellent problems and routes for most ranges and nice setting what more dop you need.
jas wood - 30/Apr/04
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Buttress 1 - Far Left Buttress
2 Extremities E1 5c 77
3 Paul's Arete Left Side E2 6a * 26
4 Paul's Arete Right Hand f5 *** 167
5 Steve's Wall f5 ** 147
6 Heather Crack D 145
7 Heather Wall f4 20
8 Heather Wall Right Hand f2+ 33
  Buttress 2 - Escalator Wall
10 Roofed Corner D 165
11 Little Arete f4 27
12 Little Corner D 133
13 Fingercrack corner VD * 33
14 Overhanging Crack VD 213
15 Undercut Double Crack HS 4b * 239
16 Ginger Badger HVS 5b 32
17 Not So Tight Chimney HVD * 188
18 Breakwind Arete HVS 5c 64
19 Space Truckin E1 5b * 78
20 Escalator HVS 5b ** 213
21 Diminuendo HVS 5c * 16
22 Mantelshelf Crack VD 243
23 Rouges Gallery VS 5a 6
24 Staircase M * 208
25 Mantelshelf Wall
-
VS 4c 110
26 Cold Wall
-
VS 4c 68
27 Hole in the Wall
-
HS 4b 94
  Buttress 3 - Beldin Block
29 Left Edge
-
f2+ d 98
30 Inside Left
-
S 4a 68
31 Old Corner
-
VD 163
32 Petch's Groove S 4a 198
33 Groove Eliminate
-
HS 4b 67
34 Twenty Foot Crack VD 278
35 North Wall
-
HVS 5b 53
36 Offspring HVS 5c 16
37 Tranmire Arete S 4a ** 366
38 Tranmire Crack VS 4c 130
39 Jenny Binks Wall VS 5a * 87
40 Twixt HVS 5a 14
41 Easy Pickings VS 4c ** 116
42 The Handrail HVS 5a 4
43 West face eliminate E2 6a 7
44 Low Level Traverse f6B+ 6b ** 7
45 Beldin Direct HVS 5b * 22
46 Beldin Variation E1 5b * 17
47 Beldin HVS 5b *** 67
48 Original Route HVS 5a *** 124
49 gollinglith E2 5c * 71
50 Tachyon E2 5c ** 10
51 Zoom HVS 5c *** 118
52 Atomic E3 6b * 43
53 Atomic Right-Hand E3 6b * 1
54 Barnley Crack S 4a * 164
55 Barnley Wall HS 4b * 129
56 Ulfers Crack VD * 126
  Buttress 4 - Wise Crack
58 Forever Onward E1 5b 21
59 Timeless Divide f6A 24
60 Timeless Divide Start f6A+ 6a 30
61 Timeless Divide - Right Hand f6C 6c ** 26
62 Agrete f5+ 29
63 Agra Direct f5+ * 32
64 Agra HVS 5b *** 118
65 Agra Right Hand HVS 5b 8
66 Agra Variation (Whimps Finish) VS 4b 22
67 Narrow Margin E2 6a 1
68 Wisecrack E1 6a *** 50
69 Wisecrack Direct Start f6C * 36
70 Wisecrack Superdirect f7B 18
71 Alan's Arete VS 4c 38
72 Mark Turner's Rockover
-
VS 5a 17
73 Shine On VD 193
74 Hendo's 4c Rockover V1 4c 2
75 Mantel On S 4b 179
76 Groove On
-
f3 149
  Buttress 5 - Bait
78 Wall Climb
-
D 114
79 Block Arete HS 4b * 89
80 Beta Blocker E1 5b * 16
81 Impregnable E2 6a ** 22
82 Get Nervous E2 5c 2
83 Chockstone Overhang HS 4b 36
  Buttress 6 - Squawks
85 Self Suicide f7B+ * 22
86 Squawk's Arete HVS 5b * 18
87 Undercut Flake Variations HS 4b * 47
88 Undercut Flake HS 4b ** 238
89 Tilt VS 5a 11
90 Flakeout Arete HVS 5a * 19
91 Dark Cleft VD 42
92 Face to Face
-
VS 4b 7
  Buttress 7 - Sevens & Eights
94 Forever Young E2 6a ** 4
95 Seven Up - Variation Start
-
E3 6a 11
96 Seven Up E2 5c ** 40
97 Direct Variations E3 6a *  
98 Direct Finish (to Seven Up) E3 6a 3
99 Fuser S 4a 119
100 Tony's Torment HVS 6a 22
101 Ian's Irritation f6B+ 2
Climb name Grade
102 Wedge Down Crack HS 4b 65
  Buttress 8 - Sevens & Eights
104 Thingumy In Thirsk E3 6a 9
105 Dennis In Darlo E1 5c ** 80
106 Barren Waste E2 5c 16
107 Easy Groove D 119
108 Edge Route M 119
  Buttress 9 - Inconsequential Wall
110 Inconsequential Traverse none 5c 7
111 Little Arete
-
VD 55
112 Roofed Chimney
-
M 51
113 Awkward Finish
-
D 53
114 Staircase Mantel
-
D 45
  Buttress 10 - Sowden
116 Low Level Traverse HVS 5b 4
117 Chris Cross E1 5c 3
118 Left Arete
-
VD 64
119 Frank's Wall
-
D 30
120 Scratch and Go
-
VD 32
121 Right Arete
-
VD 78
122 Problem Wall HVS 5b * 10
123 Left Wall VD * 88
124 Sowden left hand E1 5b * 18
125 Sowden HVS 5a ** 100
126 Sinbad E3 6b * 10
127 Space plucks E3 6a * 11
128 Forthright E2 5c * 9
129 Dixon's Dilemma VS 4c 19
130 Witton Wall S 4b 42
  Buttress 11 - Lean Buttress
132 Half Way Chockstone D 70
133 Central Bay Route VD 79
134 Psyche HVS 5c 5
135 Leany Meany E1 5c * 22
136 Ripper Traverse f4 3
137 Killer E4 6b 9
138 Ripper E1 6a *** 107
139 Ripper Right Hand E3 6c 1
140 Cyclops E2 5c *  
141 Unforgiven E1 5c * 1
142 Emergency hat HS 5a/b 5
143 The Fox HS 5b 4
144 Cyclone * f8A+ **  
  Buttress 12 - Marr's
146 Picnic Wall D 95
147 Cummin's Route f5 68
148 Christopher Robin VS 4b * 141
149 Right Wall f5 61
150 Marr's Route VS 5a ** 96
151 Da's Route VS 5a 32
152 Moderator M 99
153 Pa's Route S 4b 127
154 Gully Wall
-
S 4b 49
155 Little Gully
-
M 54
  Buttress 13 - Left Twin
157 Friday The Thirteenth f6A 32
158 sunday 20th f6B+ * 68
159 Slipway f6B 10
  Buttress 13 - Right Twin
161 Siamese Bridge D 74
162 Right Hand Twin f5+ ** 167
163 Leaning Wall f6C * 83
164 Strictly Personal f6A+ * 44
165 Brush Up f5 4
  Buttress 14 - The Deck
167 Pothole Chimney D 33
168 Jack's Young Lad f3+ 1
169 Jack the Lad HS 4b 83
170 String Vest HVS 6a 17
171 Withering Heights HVS 5c * 18
172 Aces High Left Hand
-
VS 4c 11
173 Aces High VS 4c ** 190
174 Aces High Right Hand
-
S 4b 16
175 Trumps VS 4c * 79
176 Trumps Right Hand HS 4b 75
  Buttress 15 - Ellingstring Buttress
178 Heather Wall
-
D 110
179 Itchy and Scratchy VD 129
180 Pinnacle Chimney D 169
181 Two Startled Sheep VS 5b 38
182 Yaud Wall VS 5a 148
183 Ellingstring VS 4c ** 219
184 Diagonal VS 4c * 204
185 Gymnast VS 5c 33
186 Fiddlesticks VS 5b 43
187 Girgle VD 32
  Buttress 16 - Stainthorpe's Wall
189 Sweet Sixteen VD 53
190 Fearby VS 4b 103
191 Alan's Wall HVS 5a ** 71
192 Stainthorpe's Wall E1 5b * 120
193 Stainthorps Variation Start E1 5c * 51
194 Only Sixteen f6A+ 31
195 Fascionationby E2 5c 19
  Buttress 17 - Happy Daze
197 Jug Handle Pull Up VD 157
198 Wall Centre VS 4c * 157
199 Happy Daze VS 4c 114
200 Double Mantleshelf VD 197
201 Out on Bail HVS 5c 40
202 Right Edge HVS 5c * 79
Climb name Grade
  Buttress 18 - Worthless Buttress
204 Easy Mantleshelf
-
D 32
205 Right ArĂȘte VD 25
  Buttress 19 - Lay By
207 Rock Over f4 64
208 Hand Traverse D * 99
209 Lay-By Arete f7B+ *** 45
210 Lay-by Arete Direct f7C *** 1
211 Lay-by f6A+ *** 214
212 Little Baldy f6C+ * 10
213 Rock On Left-hand f6A+ * 76
214 Rock On f5+ * 105
215 Rock Off f5 48
216 All Off f4+ 60
217 Lullaby Arete * f7C+ **  
  Buttress 20 - Overhanging Arete
219 Ten Foot Moderate M 136
220 Ten Foot Arete f4 63
221 Twenty Something f4 160
222 Overhanging Arete f6A * 213
223 Reason and Rowan f6A+ 16
224 Flaky Wall f5 264
225 Flakey Wall Traverse V5 ** 37
226 Left Wall HVD 98
227 Two Chockstones D 121
228 Right Overhang D 63
  Lower Tier - Tea Party Slabs
230 Welcome Wall f3+ 324
231 Stereo Android f4 272
232 Stereo Android Eliminate f6A 5c 26
233 Stereo Right Hand S 164
234 Tommy's Dilemma VD 454
235 Gypsy Wham VD 402
236 Tea Party Slab f4+ 334
237 Question of Balance f5+ * 341
238 Right Edge (II) f5 298
  The Son - Middle Tier - (Steptoe & Son)
240 Son of a Bitch HVS 5c 3
241 Criminal case f4+ 1
242 Super Furry Animal f8A+  
243 Sidewinder f7A 9
244 Exocet f8A 2
245 Stipule f7C 5
246 Stipule (with jug on arete) f7A+ 21
247 Curving Crack VS 4c 101
248 Curving Crack Arete f5 103
249 Curving Crack Arete Sit Down Start f6A 147
  Steptoe - Middle Tier - (Steptoe & Son)
251 Bert Wells f5+ 66
252 Centre Left f5+ 112
253 Steptoe f6A+ ** 120
254 Tiptoe f5 ** 440
255 Tiptoe right-hand VS 5b * 15
256 Bridge Chimney
-
D 39
257 No Cheek, Dr Livingstone VS 4b 12
258 Shorty's Dilemma
-
V3 18
259 Micro Wall * f6C 1
  The Left Cheek - The Upper Tier
261 Stomach Traverse none amusin * 39
262 Bratt Pack
-
VS 4c 38
263 Play a long
-
HVS 5b 17
264 Wild Thing
-
VS 4b 36
265 Cunning Stunts
-
V3 5c 8
  The Right Cheek - Upper Tier
267 Micro Corner f7A ** 83
268 Micro Coronary f7B+ ** 1
269 Problem Arete
-
VS 4c 102
270 Slab and Mantelshelf
-
M 40
271 Left Arete (II) D 103
272 Tea's Maid f3 8
273 Goblin's Ear
-
VD 143
274 Goblins There f4+ 7
  Buttress 22 - All the Twos
276 3.3 Metre Slab HS 4b 104
277 Ten Foot Slab D 123
278 Davies Arete V1 * 30
279 Davies Ramp f6B 68
280 Simple Sally f7A+ * 45
281 Holeshot f7C * 3
282 Small Dyno V3 * 7
283 Anniemutt f7C+ *  
284 Cypher f8B *** 1
285 All the Two's f6B+ * 1
286 Chockstone Pull Up D 124
  Sulky Little Boys
288 Dry Slap f6B+ **  
289 Supple Wall f7A+ *** 56
290 Sulky little boys left hand V4 **  
291 Sulky Little Boys f7A+ *** 101
292 Sulky Little Boys Direct V8 *** 13
293 Slanting Flake -LH f5+ * 248
294 Slanting Flake f3+ ** 496
295 Everything Counts V9 6c 1
  Boulder Britain Boulder
297 Ramp f2 7
298 Flakes f3 6
299 Arete f2 8
300 Slab f3 7
  Unconfirmed
302 A welcome Traverse * f6A ** 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Climbster