Climbs 268
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 300m a.s.l
Faces SW

Peter 'pencil in another problem' phillips strikes again... © peterp

Crag features

Originally included in the North of England Guide (by Stew Wilson and Ron Kenyon) based on details in October 1964 Climber magazine - because YMC did not think it was worth including in the grit guide (back in prehistoric times)

Then in YMC grit guide and second edition of North of England guide and also in North East England selective guide. New NE England guide coming out sometime soon.

As a crag it was a bit small in stature but as a bouldering venue it is brilliant - as its recent prominence has shown. It was amazing who had climbed there even before the current publicity - even saw the great John Allen there one day.

Approach notes

Due to the new popularity of the crag important to follow access details and park responsibly. Road up valley is narrow but look for the parking and a few hundred yards walking (if necessary) shouldn't do any harm - and will help the access situation.

Guidebooks

Northern England

The book is a selected route and crag guide although it still manages to pack over 2350 routes between its covers, spread across 44 crags. The main focus is on routes of all grades from Moderate to E9, but the best bouldering is also described.
More info
Grades need updating to the new guide. Especially the rediculous trad graded boulder problems...
Smelly Fox - 13/Dec/14
Superb rock quality.
glaramara - 25/Oct/14
Link to useful topo http://www.yorkshiregrit.com/yg/topo/slipstones.pdf
Ian Broome - 11/Dec/11
Why are so many of the routes which are clearly boulder problems (e.g. lay-by, slanting flake etc.) still given route grades? It's not the 1980's. I understand for the borderline height ones, but not for 3m high... please could the crag mod sort this out
lukehodson - 06/Sep/10
good place but someone has broken slanted crack hs 4b and now its a little harder to do
insert - 19/Jun/08
outstanding crag, something for everyone, can be VERY windy at times. had a thoroughly enjoyable day there. a really good place to push your grade, but take a mat and some big mates!
rain dog... - 27/Sep/04
wide variety of excellent problems and routes for most ranges and nice setting what more dop you need.
jas wood - 30/Apr/04
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Buttress 1 - Far Left Buttress
2 Extremities E1 5c 77
3 Paul's Arete Left Side E2 6a * 25
4 Paul's Arete Right Hand f5 *** 163
5 Steve's Wall f5 ** 137
6 Heather Crack D 139
7 Heather Wall f4 16
8 Heather Wall Right Hand f2+ 30
  Buttress 2 - Escalator Wall
10 Roofed Corner D 154
11 Little Arete f4 22
12 Little Corner D 128
13 Fingercrack corner VD * 30
14 Overhanging Crack VD 204
15 Undercut Double Crack HS 4b * 230
16 Ginger Badger HVS 5b 31
17 Not So Tight Chimney HVD * 181
18 Breakwind Arete HVS 5c 64
19 Space Truckin E1 5b * 79
20 Escalator HVS 5b ** 208
21 Diminuendo HVS 5c * 15
22 Mantelshelf Crack VD 232
23 Rouges Gallery VS 5a 6
24 Staircase M * 197
25 Mantelshelf Wall
-
VS 4c 107
26 Cold Wall
-
VS 4c 66
27 Hole in the Wall
-
HS 4b 89
  Buttress 3 - Beldin Block
29 Left Edge
-
f2+ d 93
30 Inside Left
-
S 4a 64
31 Old Corner
-
VD 157
32 Petch's Groove S 4a 192
33 Groove Eliminate
-
HS 4b 66
34 Twenty Foot Crack VD 271
35 North Wall
-
HVS 5b 53
36 Offspring HVS 5c 15
37 Tranmire Arete S 4a ** 362
38 Tranmire Crack VS 4c 127
39 Jenny Binks Wall VS 5a * 87
40 Twixt HVS 5a 13
41 Easy Pickings VS 4c ** 115
42 The Handrail HVS 5a 4
43 West face eliminate E2 6a 7
44 Low Level Traverse f6B+ 6b ** 6
45 Beldin Direct HVS 5b * 21
46 Beldin Variation E1 5b * 15
47 Beldin HVS 5b *** 66
48 Original Route HVS 5a *** 122
49 gollinglith E2 5c * 69
50 Tachyon E2 5c ** 10
51 Zoom HVS 5c *** 122
52 Atomic E3 6b * 49
53 Atomic Right-Hand E3 6b * 1
54 Barnley Crack S 4a * 161
55 Barnley Wall HS 4b * 124
56 Ulfers Crack VD * 123
  Buttress 4 - Wise Crack
58 Forever Onward E1 5b 21
59 Timeless Divide f6A 24
60 Timeless Divide Start f6A+ 6a 30
61 Timeless Divide - Right Hand f6C 6c ** 26
62 Agrete f5+ 28
63 Agra Direct f5+ * 31
64 Agra HVS 5b *** 120
65 Agra Right Hand HVS 5b 8
66 Agra Variation (Whimps Finish) VS 4b 21
67 Narrow Margin E2 6a 1
68 Wisecrack E1 6a *** 45
69 Wisecrack Direct Start f6C * 33
70 Wisecrack Superdirect f7B 19
71 Alan's Arete VS 4c 37
72 Mark Turner's Rockover
-
VS 5a 17
73 Shine On VD 185
74 Hendo's 4c Rockover V1 4c 2
75 Mantel On S 4b 169
76 Groove On
-
f3 141
  Buttress 5 - Bait
78 Wall Climb
-
D 108
79 Block Arete HS 4b * 84
80 Beta Blocker E1 5b * 16
81 Impregnable E2 6a ** 22
82 Get Nervous E2 5c 2
83 Chockstone Overhang HS 4b 36
  Buttress 6 - Squawks
85 Self Suicide f7B+ * 19
86 Squawk's Arete HVS 5b * 18
87 Undercut Flake Variations HS 4b * 45
88 Undercut Flake HS 4b ** 229
89 Tilt VS 5a 9
90 Flakeout Arete HVS 5a * 19
91 Dark Cleft VD 42
92 Face to Face
-
VS 4b 7
  Buttress 7 - Sevens & Eights
94 Forever Young E2 6a ** 4
95 Seven Up - Variation Start
-
E3 6a 11
96 Seven Up E2 5c ** 39
97 Direct Variations E3 6a *  
98 Direct Finish (to Seven Up) E3 6a 3
99 Fuser S 4a 112
100 Tony's Torment HVS 6a 20
101 Ian's Irritation f6B+ 2
102 Wedge Down Crack HS 4b 63
  Buttress 8 - Sevens & Eights
104 Thingumy In Thirsk E3 6a 9
105 Dennis In Darlo E1 5c ** 77
106 Barren Waste E2 5c 16
107 Easy Groove D 115
108 Edge Route M 116
  Buttress 9 - Inconsequential Wall
110 Inconsequential Traverse none 5c 7
111 Little Arete
-
VD 52
112 Roofed Chimney
-
M 49
113 Awkward Finish
-
D 51
114 Staircase Mantel
-
D 43
  Buttress 10 - Sowden
116 Low Level Traverse HVS 5b 4
117 Chris Cross E1 5c 3
118 Left Arete
-
VD 62
119 Frank's Wall
-
D 28
120 Scratch and Go
-
VD 30
121 Right Arete
-
VD 74
122 Problem Wall HVS 5b * 9
123 Left Wall VD * 84
124 Sowden left hand E1 5b * 18
125 Sowden HVS 5a ** 97
126 Sinbad E3 6b * 9
127 Space plucks E3 6a * 10
128 Forthright E2 5c * 8
129 Dixon's Dilemma VS 4c 16
130 Witton Wall S 4b 40
  Buttress 11 - Lean Buttress
132 Half Way Chockstone D 67
133 Central Bay Route VD 77
134 Psyche HVS 5c 4
135 Leany Meany E1 5c * 20
136 Ripper Traverse f4 3
137 Killer E4 6b 9
138 Ripper E1 6a *** 112
139 Ripper Right Hand E3 6c 1
140 Cyclops E2 5c *  
141 Unforgiven E1 5c * 1
142 Emergency hat HS 5a/b 5
143 The Fox HS 5b 4
  Buttress 12 - Marr's
145 Picnic Wall D 91
146 Cummin's Route f5 62
147 Christopher Robin VS 4b * 137
148 Right Wall f5 56
149 Marr's Route VS 5a ** 98
150 Da's Route VS 5a 29
151 Moderator M 94
152 Pa's Route S 4b 119
153 Gully Wall
-
S 4b 45
154 Little Gully
-
M 52
  Buttress 13 - Left Twin
156 Friday The Thirteenth f6A 31
157 sunday 20th f6B+ * 63
158 Slipway f6B 10
  Buttress 13 - Right Twin
160 Siamese Bridge D 70
161 Right Hand Twin f5+ ** 160
162 Leaning Wall f6C * 80
163 Strictly Personal f6A+ * 41
164 Brush Up f5 4
  Buttress 14 - The Deck
166 Pothole Chimney D 31
167 Jack's Young Lad f3+ 1
168 Jack the Lad HS 4b 75
169 String Vest HVS 6a 16
170 Withering Heights HVS 5c * 17
171 Aces High Left Hand
-
VS 4c 11
172 Aces High VS 4c ** 185
173 Aces High Right Hand
-
S 4b 16
174 Trumps VS 4c * 78
175 Trumps Right Hand HS 4b 69
  Buttress 15 - Ellingstring Buttress
177 Heather Wall
-
D 103
178 Itchy and Scratchy VD 123
179 Pinnacle Chimney D 162
180 Two Startled Sheep VS 5b 37
181 Yaud Wall VS 5a 142
182 Ellingstring VS 4c ** 213
183 Diagonal VS 4c * 200
184 Gymnast VS 5c 29
185 Fiddlesticks VS 5b 39
186 Girgle VD 32
  Buttress 16 - Stainthorpe's Wall
188 Sweet Sixteen VD 48
189 Fearby VS 4b 95
190 Alan's Wall HVS 5a ** 66
191 Stainthorpe's Wall E1 5b * 113
192 Stainthorps Variation Start E1 5c * 48
193 Only Sixteen f6A+ 27
194 Fascionationby E2 5c 16
  Buttress 17 - Happy Daze
196 Jug Handle Pull Up VD 151
197 Wall Centre VS 4c * 146
198 Happy Daze VS 4c 107
199 Double Mantleshelf VD 188
200 Out on Bail HVS 5c 38
201 Right Edge HVS 5c * 77
  Buttress 18 - Worthless Buttress
203 Easy Mantleshelf
-
D 30
204 Right ArĂȘte VD 20
  Buttress 19 - Lay By
206 Rock Over f4 59
207 Hand Traverse D * 94
208 Lay-By Arete f7B+ *** 54
209 Lay-by Arete Direct f7C *** 1
210 Lay-by f6A+ *** 192
211 Little Baldy f6C+ * 10
212 Rock On Left-hand f6A+ * 71
213 Rock On f5+ * 96
214 Rock Off f5 43
215 All Off f4+ 55
  Buttress 20 - Overhanging Arete
217 Ten Foot Moderate M 127
218 Ten Foot Arete f4 53
219 Twenty Something f4 145
220 Overhanging Arete f6A * 191
221 Reason and Rowan f6A+ 9
222 Flaky Wall f5 234
223 Flakey Wall Traverse V5 ** 34
224 Left Wall HVD 88
225 Two Chockstones D 114
226 Right Overhang D 57
  Lower Tier - Tea Party Slabs
228 Welcome Wall f3+ 310
229 Stereo Android f4 250
230 Stereo Android Eliminate f6A 5c 24
231 Stereo Right Hand S 157
232 Tommy's Dilemma VD 434
233 Gypsy Wham VD 382
234 Tea Party Slab f4+ 318
235 Question of Balance f5+ * 324
236 Right Edge (II) f5 278
  The Son - Middle Tier - (Steptoe & Son)
238 Son of a Bitch HVS 5c 3
239 Criminal case f4+ 1
240 Super Furry Animal f8A+  
241 Sidewinder f7A 8
242 Exocet f8A  
243 Stipule f7C 5
244 Stipule (with jug on arete) f7A+ 19
245 Curving Crack VS 4c 94
246 Curving Crack Arete f5 97
247 Curving Crack Arete Sit Down Start f6A 133
  Steptoe - Middle Tier - (Steptoe & Son)
249 Bert Wells f5+ 61
250 Centre Left f5+ 107
251 Steptoe f6A+ ** 113
252 Tiptoe f5 ** 415
253 Tiptoe right-hand VS 5b * 15
254 Bridge Chimney
-
D 37
255 No Cheek, Dr Livingstone VS 4b 12
256 Shorty's Dilemma
-
V3 16
  The Left Cheek - The Upper Tier
258 Stomach Traverse none amusin * 37
259 Bratt Pack
-
VS 4c 36
260 Play a long
-
HVS 5b 15
261 Wild Thing
-
VS 4b 34
262 Cunning Stunts
-
V3 5c 8
  The Right Cheek - Upper Tier
264 Micro Corner f7A ** 78
265 Micro Coronary f7B+ **  
266 Problem Arete
-
VS 4c 95
267 Slab and Mantelshelf
-
M 40
268 Left Arete (II) D 93
269 Tea's Maid f3 7
270 Goblin's Ear
-
VD 133
271 Goblins There f4+ 6
  Buttress 22 - All the Twos
273 3.3 Metre Slab HS 4b 97
274 Ten Foot Slab D 117
275 Davies Arete V1 * 30
276 Davies Ramp f6B 64
277 Simple Sally f7A+ * 45
278 Holeshot f7C * 1
279 Small Dyno V3 * 7
280 Anniemutt f7C+ *  
281 Cypher f8B *** 1
282 All the Two's f6B+ * 1
283 Chockstone Pull Up D 115
  Sulky Little Boys
285 Dry Slap f6B+ **  
286 Supple Wall f7A+ *** 53
287 Sulky little boys left hand V4 **  
288 Sulky Little Boys f7A+ *** 91
289 Sulky Little Boys Direct V8 *** 9
290 Slanting Flake -LH f5+ * 231
291 Slanting Flake f3+ ** 475
292 Everything Counts V9 6c 1
  Boulder Britain Boulder
294 Ramp f2 6
295 Flakes f3 5
296 Arete f2 7
297 Slab f3 6
  Unconfirmed

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