Climbs 201
Rocktype Limestone

Faces N

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The Prow © sim.monkey

Crag features

A series of short limestone walls offering routes of surprisingly good quality. The roof climbs are especially worthwhile for those climbing in the E grades, although the exits from many of the routes on Swallow Cliff are vegetated and the belay stakes may be hidden. Reconnaissance of the cliff top is advisable before an ascent.

For those operating at more modest grades The Point and the west buttress at Middle Hope are of interest, with generally adequate belays in the rock outcrops at the top of routes. In addition, the old stakes are still in place above the climbs around Elgar on Swallow Cliff, and a quick rummage through vegetation should locate them.

If climbing at The Point then sunny, windy weather is adviseable in order to dry out the mud. The West Buttress at Middlehope is more forgiving of marginal conditions and has enough friction on many routes to be climbed when wet.

Approach notes

Owned by The National Trust. Climbers are asked to comply with the Trust's standard code of conduct.

Situated on a north-facing coast 3 miles north of Weston-Super-Mare. Follow Satnav directions for BS22 9UD, then continue on a short distance to the end of the road. A car park is situated on the right which is entered through a gate, with another gate visible immediately infront of you as you enter. The Middle Hope area is accessed through this second gate. Walk through the gate and bear towards the hedge on your left where you'll soon see a path through that hedge heading north up the slope. This crosses an access track, and then continues as steps to a smaller gate and open grassland. Turn right at the gate, pass an old stone wall, then after a few hundred metres you'll see a shingle bay over to the left. The boulder problem "The Prow" is located at the far (eastern) end of this bay, with the West Buttress of Middle Hope just beyond, and the Main Cliff beyond that again.

For the Swallow Cliff to The Point sector, leave the car park through the gate you entered, then take the steps to the right up the hill to the top. Turn left and head west out to near the end of the peninsula. The base of the cliff for The Point climbs can be accessed here by an easy scramble down at various points on the right (north). By walking back along the base of the cliff to the east Swallow Cliff can be reached. The beach at the eastern end of Swallow Cliff provides an alternative exit and access point.

The climbs can be accessed for around 3 hours either side of low water, although this can vary significantly between spring and neap tides. On spring tides the water advances at an astonishing rate, so leave plenty of time to escape.

Went down to Swallow Cliff on the 14th July. Belay stakes and possible topouts completely buried in vegation! Also there's a pair of Red Kites nesting close to the first cave.
Steve nevers - 17/Jul/13
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  MIDDLE HOPE (MAIN CLIFF)
2 Missing Left Crack HS 4a 2
3 Tiananmen Square Massacre VS 4b 3
4 Peace Protest
-
E4 5c  
5 Never to Go Back
-
HVS 5a  
6 Pedestal Overhang
-
E3 6a  
7 Lip Slip
-
E1 5b  
  MIDDLE HOPE (WEST BUTTRESS)
9 Traverse of the Sea Slaters f4 7
10 Amandla Wetu D 16
11 Happy as a Sandboy M 17
12 Clodhopper VD 7
13 Another Pointless Ramble? M 9
14 My Twisted World HS 4b 8
15 Sub-marine Stubble E4 6b 2
16 Moronic Bottle Thrower VS 4c 6
17 Madiba HS 4b 20
18 Nelson D 21
19 Rolihlahla D 16
20 Surprise Reunion D 5
21 Freedom Fighter D 21
22 Long Walk to Freedom D 25
23 Terrorist VD 28
24 Diff Cliff D 21
25 Kate Sea Moss D 28
26 Diff Cliff Slab D 15
27 Spoons in the Mousse S 42
28 Heart of Gold HS 4b 12
29 Hard to Hold D 27
30 Fork in the Road D 31
31 Hubris S 12
32 To the Man in Room 34... HS 4c 18
33 A Nightmare Before Christmas HS 4b 22
34 Grey Sky S 4a 36
35 Sandweto VS 4b 25
36 Sandweto (right hand) VS 4c 12
37 Poor Man's Pembroke VD 41
38 Bonus Notches VD 6
39 Al Iberto M 32
40 Mysterious Barricades D 21
41 A Wayward Cloud HVS 5b 18
42 Tempting or not tempting HVS 5b 14
43 Ice Cream Van Slam VS 5a 5
44 Sand Point Doggers M 11
45 Catch me if you can S 4a 11
46 Zen none 4c 4
47 The Prowess f6A 3
48 The Worp f4 4
49 Jacks Little Problem f6A+ 2
50 Marks little Problem f5 4
  MIDDLE HOPE (BOULDERING, IN NO PARTICULAR ORDER)
52 Not Another Lip Traverse! f6B+ ** 3
53 Frostbite f7A * 1
54 Pocket Rocket f7A **  
55 Zero Degrees f7C+ *  
56 Zero Degrees Sit Start
-
f7C+ ** 1
57 The Prow f7C *** 29
58 The Barrel f7C * 2
  SWALLOW CLIFF (EAST)
60 Litany Against Fear f7A+ *** 1
61 Arrakis f7C 1
62 Arrakis Direct f7C *** 1
63 Underdogs
-
E3 6a 1
64 Memento
-
E1 5c 1
65 Souvenir
-
VS 4c * 6
66 Keepsake Crack HS 4b * 3
67 A Cherry on the Top HVS 5a * 1
68 Drop a Clanger
-
E2 5b  
69 The Soup Dragon Warbles
-
E3 5c 1
70 Broad Reach
-
VS 4b  
71 Mister Fuzzy-wuz
-
E1 5b  
Climb name Grade
72 Two dogs too many VD 4
73 Of Sound Mind S 4a 1
74 Rugrat
-
E4 6a 1
75 Sockthing
-
E1 5a 2
76 Seven Bridges
-
E1 5a 2
77 Weston Approaches
-
HVS 5b 1
78 Jutland
-
E2 6a 1
79 Buoy Racer
-
E1 5b  
80 Jocular Banter
-
E2 6a  
81 Gay Repartee
-
E2 6a  
82 Mass Debate
-
E2 5c  
83 Leaning Difficulties
-
E2 5c  
84 Severn Bore
-
E3 5c  
85 Second Severn Crossing
-
E2 5c  
86 Psycho 2
-
E4 6c * 4
87 Sands of Time
-
E3 6a  
88 Too Big to Swallow
-
E3 6a 1
89 Then Chew on This
-
E4 6a 1
90 The Incalculable Cleft
-
E4 6b 2
91 The Incalculable Cleft (Redux) E5 6b * 1
92 Ben’s Route E5 6a * 1
93 I've Cleaned That
-
E2 6a 1
94 S'all Yours
-
E2 5c 1
95 Flute Elope
-
S * 4
96 Pipe Music
-
S * 8
97 Suggestive
-
E1 5c 1
98 Ain't No Sunshine
-
HS 4b 3
99 The Vestibule
-
VD * 1
  SWALLOW CLIFF (PEBBLE GULLY EAST WALL)
101 Motorboat to Mars: The Re-release XS 6a ***  
102 Olga Da Polga S 4a 3
103 Elgar
-
VS 5a * 9
104 Helga
-
S 4c 5
105 Sterling Sea Moss
-
HVS 5c 3
106 Pomp
-
HVS 5b 6
107 Circumstance
-
E3 6a ** 2
108 Where Coral Lies
-
E6 6a 1
109 Press F to Pay Respects E1 5c 2
  SWALLOW CLIFF (PEBBLE GULLY WEST WALL ONWARDS TO FIVE RIBS)
111 Rasp
-
E1 5b 3
112 A Traction
-
E5 6b 1
113 Stomp
-
E1 5c 2
114 In Limestone Bed with Madonna MS 2
115 Beautiful Scars S 4a * 2
116 Romp HS 4b 1
117 Like a 60 year old virgin HVD 4
118 Unapologetic Bitch D 2
119 Madonna and child VD 4
120 Madonna at 60 VD 3
121 The Side Wall Cometh HS 4c 2
122 Coming Up HVS 5b 1
123 So Be It HS 4b 2
124 My Lovely Autumn with Sandy
-
HS 4b 2
  Five Ribs
126 So Barry Clarke VD 4
127 In bed with a barnacle HVD 4
128 Gerstmann Rib Syndrome HS 4b 7
129 Strumpets Rule S 4a 2
130 Madonna's Love Cave HS 4a * 3
131 Narrow Rib S 4a 4
132 I'm Addicted HD 3
133 Rib Swap VS 4c 4
134 Perfect Timing VS 5a 3
135 Into the Groove S 4a * 4
136 Lord of the Fries VD 3
137 Bhangra on the Beach HS 4a 2
138 Coq au Van D 5
139 Van Deeman S 4a 4
140 It's Over E4 5c 1
141 Exit through the Gift Shop HVS 4c * 2
Climb name Grade
  SWALLOW CLIFF, WEST
143 Saint Crispian M 10
144 Bob's your uncle VD 5
145 Ann Ban Croft VD 3
146 Misses Robinson D 4
147 This One Time VD 10
148 My Tea Cleft VD 6
149 Stifler's Mom VD 8
150 Band Camp HVD 5
151 Stifler's Gran VD 8
152 Trench Town E1 6a 1
153 Camp Freddy VD 4
154 Doggerel D 6
155 Dogger Bank D 2
156 Mein Hund D 3
  Apex Zawn
158 Shiva's Pigeons HD * 7
159 Kate's Craic S 4a * 1
160 The Mysterious Case of the Dogger in the Carpark HS 4b 7
161 Limpet Wall HS 4b 4
162 Sea Moss Garden HS 4b 8
163 Moss Tank S 4a 5
164 Kate on a hot limestone roof MS 3
165 Dose 1
-
VD 2
166 A distinct possibility
-
S 2
  THE POINT
168 Skip Advert HS 4c 2
169 And The Belayer Wore Wellies
-
HS 4c 5
170 Quick Tug
-
HS 4b 5
171 Slow Tug HS 4c 4
172 Tug Less VD 5
173 Obi Wan M 6
174 Gin Gan S 4a 4
175 Skyfall
-
E1 5b * 5
176 Onsighting Olivia
-
E1 5b * 4
177 Occupy Sand Point HS 4b 6
178 Pillar Larva D 5
179 Micro Roofs HS 4b 3
180 Not another boulder problem HS 4b 2
181 Janitor of Lunacy D 5
182 Central Eliminate HVD 6
183 Conceived in the Sixties
-
VD 6
184 Qatar Pillar D 9
185 The Needle M 9
186 His Burden Is Light VD 7
187 The Shrimp D 9
188 Twiggy
-
S 4a 11
189 Tobruk VD 12
190 Tommy HS 4a 7
191 Mossy Crack HS 4b 3
192 Solitary Pocket S 6
193 Immediate Exposure HS 4b 2
194 Tokoloshe HS 4b 7
195 Tokamak VS 4c 11
196 Tok H S 4
197 Toto
-
D 6
198 Touroid S 7
199 Tourbillon D 10
200 Tourtoyz M 8
201 Points End Rock Climb HS 4b 9
202 Points End Eliminate VS 4c 3
203 Points End Slab HS 4b 7
204 Points End Crack M 12
205 Scurvy Linear D 12
206 Pre-Human Ideas S 4a 7
207 Points End Boulder VS 4c 6
208 Barnacle grip M 11
209 Tourettes D 3
210 Crack to the Right of Points End Rock Climb S 4b 2
  Bouldering (other than Middle Hope)
212 Tuff Outcrop Arete Sit Start V5 6b * 3

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