UKC

Climbs 155
Rocktype Limestone

Faces N

The Prow © sim.monkey

Crag features

A series of short limestone walls offering routes of surprisingly good quality. The roof climbs are especially worthwhile for those climbing in the E grades, although the exits from many of the routes on Swallow Cliff are vegetated and the belay stakes may be hidden. Reconnaissance of the cliff top is advisable before an ascent.

For those operating at more modest grades The Point and the west buttress at Middle Hope are of interest, with generally adequate belays in the rock outcrops at the top of routes. In addition, the old stakes are still in place above the climbs around Elgar on Swallow Cliff, and a quick rummage through vegetation should locate them.

If climbing at The Point then sunny, windy weather is adviseable in order to dry out the mud. The West Buttress at Middlehope is more forgiving of marginal conditions and has enough friction on many routes to be climbed when wet.

Approach notes

Owned by The National Trust. Climbers are asked to comply with the Trust's standard code of conduct.

Situated on a north-facing coast 3 miles north of Weston-Super-Mare. Follow Satnav directions for BS22 9UD, then continue on a short distance to the end of the road. A car park is situated on the right which is entered through a gate, with another gate visible immediately infront of you as you enter. The Middle Hope area is accessed through this second gate. Walk through the gate and bear towards the hedge on your left where you'll soon see a path through that hedge heading north up the slope. This crosses an access track, and then continues as steps to a smaller gate and open grassland. Turn right at the gate, pass an old stone wall, then after a few hundred metres you'll see a shingle bay over to the left. The boulder problem "The Prow" is located at the far (eastern) end of this bay, with the West Buttress of Middle Hope just beyond, and the Main Cliff beyond that again.

For the Swallow Cliff to The Point sector, leave the car park through the gate you entered, then take the steps to the right up the hill to the top. Turn left and head west out to near the end of the peninsula. The base of the cliff for The Point climbs can be accessed here by an easy scramble down at various points on the right (north). By walking back along the base of the cliff to the east Swallow Cliff can be reached. The beach at the eastern end of Swallow Cliff provides an alternative exit and access point.

The climbs can be accessed for around 3 hours either side of low water, although this can vary significantly between spring and neap tides. On spring tides the water advances at an astonishing rate, so leave plenty of time to escape.

Went down to Swallow Cliff on the 14th July. Belay stakes and possible topouts completely buried in vegation! Also there's a pair of Red Kites nesting close to the first cave.
Steve nevers - 17/Jul/13
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  MIDDLE HOPE (MAIN CLIFF)
2 Tiananmen Square Massacre VS 4b 2
3 Peace Protest
-
E4 5c  
4 Never to Go Back
-
HVS 5a  
5 Pedestal Overhang
-
E3 6a  
6 Lip Slip
-
E1 5b  
  MIDDLE HOPE (WEST BUTTRESS)
8 Traverse of the Sea Slaters f4 6
9 Amandla Wetu D 11
10 Happy as a Sandboy M 13
11 Clodhopper VD 4
12 Another Pointless Ramble? M 6
13 My Twisted World HS 4b 6
14 Sub-marine Stubble E4 6b  
15 Moronic Bottle Thrower VS 4c 4
16 Madiba HS 4b 14
17 Nelson D 13
18 Rolihlahla D 10
19 Freedom Fighter D 12
20 Long Walk to Freedom D 14
21 Terrorist VD 16
22 Diff Cliff D 9
23 Kate Sea Moss D 14
24 Spoons in the Mousse S 30
25 Heart of Gold HS 4b 10
26 Hard to Hold D 11
27 Fork in the Road D 21
28 Hubris S 8
29 To the Man in Room 34... HS 4c 16
30 A Nightmare Before Christmas HS 4b 18
31 Grey Sky S 4a 22
32 Sandweto VS 4b 16
33 Sandweto (right hand) VS 4c 8
34 Poor Man's Pembroke VD 26
35 Bonus Notches VD 2
36 Al Iberto M 16
37 Mysterious Barricades D 10
38 A Wayward Cloud HVS 5b 11
39 Tempting or not tempting HVS 5b 6
40 Ice Cream Van Slam VS 5a 3
41 Sand Point Doggers M 5
42 Catch me if you can S 4a 4
43 Zen none 4c 2
  MIDDLE HOPE (BOULDERING)
45 Not Another Lip Traverse! f6B+ ** 3
46 Frostbite f7A * 1
47 Pocket Rocket f7A **  
48 Zero Degrees f7C+ *  
49 The Prow f7C *** 25
50 The Barrel f7C * 2
  SWALLOW CLIFF (EAST)
52 Underdogs
-
E3 6a  
53 Memento
-
E1 5c  
54 Souvenir
-
VS 4c * 4
55 Drop a Clanger
-
E2 5b  
56 The Soup Dragon Warbles
-
E3 5c  
Climb name Grade
57 Broad Reach
-
VS 4b  
58 Mister Fuzzy-wuz
-
E1 5b  
59 Two dogs too many D * 1
60 Rugrat
-
E4 6a 1
61 Sockthing
-
E1 5a  
62 Seven Bridges
-
E1 5a  
63 Weston Approaches
-
HVS 5b 1
64 Jutland
-
E2 6a 1
65 Buoy Racer
-
E1 5b  
66 Jocular Banter
-
E2 6a  
67 Gay Repartee
-
E2 6a  
68 Mass Debate
-
E2 5c  
69 Leaning Difficulties
-
E2 5c  
70 Severn Bore
-
E3 5c  
71 Second Severn Crossing
-
E2 5c  
72 Psycho 2
-
E4 6c *  
73 Sands of Time
-
E3 6a  
74 Too Big to Swallow
-
E3 6a  
75 Then Chew on This
-
E4 6a  
76 The Incalculable Cleft
-
E4 6b  
77 I've Cleaned That
-
E2 6a  
78 S'all Yours
-
E2 5c  
79 Flute Elope
-
S * 2
80 Pipe Music
-
S * 4
81 Suggestive
-
E1 5c  
82 Ain't No Sunshine
-
HS 4b  
  SWALLOW CLIFF (PEBBLE GULLY EAST WALL)
84 Elgar
-
VS 5a * 7
85 Helga
-
S 4c 4
86 Sterling Sea Moss
-
HVS 5c 2
87 Pomp
-
HVS 5b 1
88 Circumstance
-
E3 6a ** 1
89 Where Coral Lies
-
E6 6a 1
  SWALLOW CLIFF (PEBBLE GULLY WEST WALL ONWARDS TO FIVE RIBS)
91 Motorboat to Mars: The Re-release XS 6a ***  
92 Rasp
-
E1 5b 1
93 A Traction
-
E5 6b 1
94 Stomp
-
E1 5c 1
95 It's Over E4 5c 1
96 Trench Town E1 6a  
  Five Ribs
98 Gerstmann Rib Syndrome HS 4b 2
99 Narrow Rib S 4a 2
100 Rib Swap VS 4c 2
101 Perfect Timing VS 5a 2
102 Lord of the Fries VD 1
103 Coq au Van D 2
104 Van Deeman S 4a 2
  SWALLOW CLIFF, WEST
106 Saint Crispian M 8
107 Bob's your uncle VD 4
108 Ann Ban Croft VD 2
109 Misses Robinson D 3
110 This One Time VD 7
111 My Tea Cleft VD 5
112 Stifler's Mom VD 6
Climb name Grade
113 Band Camp HVD 4
114 Stifler's Gran VD 7
115 Camp Freddy VD 3
116 Doggerel D 5
117 Dogger Bank D 1
118 Mein Hund D 2
  Apex Zawn
120 The Mysterious Case of the Dogger in the Carpark HS 4b 5
121 Limpet Wall HS 4b 2
122 Sea Moss Garden HS 4b 4
123 Moss Tank S 4a 3
  THE POINT
125 The Belayer Wore Wellies
-
HS 4c 3
126 Quick Tug
-
HS 4b 3
127 Slow Tug HS 4c 2
128 Tug Less VD 2
129 Obi Wan M 3
130 Gin Gan S 4a 2
131 Skyfall
-
E1 5b * 4
132 Onsighting Olivia
-
E1 5b * 4
133 Occupy Sand Point HS 4b 2
134 Pillar Larva D 2
135 Micro Roofs HS 4b 2
136 Not another boulder problem HS 4b 1
137 Janitor of Lunacy D 2
138 Central Eliminate HVD 2
139 Conceived in the Sixties
-
VD 3
140 Qatar Pillar D 5
141 The Needle M 4
142 His Burden Is Light VD 3
143 The Shrimp D 4
144 Twiggy
-
S 4a 5
145 Tobruk VD 5
146 Tommy HS 4a 3
147 Mossy Crack HS 4b 2
148 Solitary Pocket S 3
149 Immediate Exposure HS 4b 1
150 Tokoloshe HS 4b 4
151 Tokamak VS 4c 5
152 Tok H S 2
153 Toto
-
D 3
154 Touroid S 3
155 Tourbillon D 5
156 Tourtoyz M 4
157 Points End Rock Climb HS 4b 2
158 Points End Eliminate VS 4c 2
159 Points End Slab HS 4b 1
160 Points End Crack M 4
161 Scurvy Linear D 5
162 Pre-Human Ideas S 4a 2
163 Points End Boulder VS 4c 2
164 Barnacle grip M 7
  Bouldering (other than Middle Hope)
166 Tuff Outcrop Arete Sit Start V5 6b * 3

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