Climbs 189
Rocktype Limestone

Faces N

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The Prow © sim.monkey

Crag features

A series of short limestone walls offering routes of surprisingly good quality. The roof climbs are especially worthwhile for those climbing in the E grades, although the exits from many of the routes on Swallow Cliff are vegetated and the belay stakes may be hidden. Reconnaissance of the cliff top is advisable before an ascent.

For those operating at more modest grades The Point and the west buttress at Middle Hope are of interest, with generally adequate belays in the rock outcrops at the top of routes. In addition, the old stakes are still in place above the climbs around Elgar on Swallow Cliff, and a quick rummage through vegetation should locate them.

If climbing at The Point then sunny, windy weather is adviseable in order to dry out the mud. The West Buttress at Middlehope is more forgiving of marginal conditions and has enough friction on many routes to be climbed when wet.

Approach notes

Owned by The National Trust. Climbers are asked to comply with the Trust's standard code of conduct.

Situated on a north-facing coast 3 miles north of Weston-Super-Mare. Follow Satnav directions for BS22 9UD, then continue on a short distance to the end of the road. A car park is situated on the right which is entered through a gate, with another gate visible immediately infront of you as you enter. The Middle Hope area is accessed through this second gate. Walk through the gate and bear towards the hedge on your left where you'll soon see a path through that hedge heading north up the slope. This crosses an access track, and then continues as steps to a smaller gate and open grassland. Turn right at the gate, pass an old stone wall, then after a few hundred metres you'll see a shingle bay over to the left. The boulder problem "The Prow" is located at the far (eastern) end of this bay, with the West Buttress of Middle Hope just beyond, and the Main Cliff beyond that again.

For the Swallow Cliff to The Point sector, leave the car park through the gate you entered, then take the steps to the right up the hill to the top. Turn left and head west out to near the end of the peninsula. The base of the cliff for The Point climbs can be accessed here by an easy scramble down at various points on the right (north). By walking back along the base of the cliff to the east Swallow Cliff can be reached. The beach at the eastern end of Swallow Cliff provides an alternative exit and access point.

The climbs can be accessed for around 3 hours either side of low water, although this can vary significantly between spring and neap tides. On spring tides the water advances at an astonishing rate, so leave plenty of time to escape.

Went down to Swallow Cliff on the 14th July. Belay stakes and possible topouts completely buried in vegation! Also there's a pair of Red Kites nesting close to the first cave.
Steve nevers - 17/Jul/13
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  MIDDLE HOPE (MAIN CLIFF)
2 Tiananmen Square Massacre VS 4b 2
3 Peace Protest
-
E4 5c  
4 Never to Go Back
-
HVS 5a  
5 Pedestal Overhang
-
E3 6a  
6 Lip Slip
-
E1 5b  
  MIDDLE HOPE (WEST BUTTRESS)
8 Traverse of the Sea Slaters f4 7
9 Amandla Wetu D 13
10 Happy as a Sandboy M 15
11 Clodhopper VD 5
12 Another Pointless Ramble? M 7
13 My Twisted World HS 4b 7
14 Sub-marine Stubble E4 6b 2
15 Moronic Bottle Thrower VS 4c 5
16 Madiba HS 4b 19
17 Nelson D 18
18 Rolihlahla D 13
19 Surprise Reunion D 2
20 Freedom Fighter D 18
21 Long Walk to Freedom D 20
22 Terrorist VD 24
23 Diff Cliff D 18
24 Kate Sea Moss D 24
25 Diff Cliff Slab D 9
26 Spoons in the Mousse S 38
27 Heart of Gold HS 4b 11
28 Hard to Hold D 23
29 Fork in the Road D 28
30 Hubris S 11
31 To the Man in Room 34... HS 4c 17
32 A Nightmare Before Christmas HS 4b 21
33 Grey Sky S 4a 32
34 Sandweto VS 4b 22
35 Sandweto (right hand) VS 4c 11
36 Poor Man's Pembroke VD 36
37 Bonus Notches VD 4
38 Al Iberto M 28
39 Mysterious Barricades D 18
40 A Wayward Cloud HVS 5b 16
41 Tempting or not tempting HVS 5b 12
42 Ice Cream Van Slam VS 5a 4
43 Sand Point Doggers M 10
44 Catch me if you can S 4a 9
45 Zen none 4c 2
46 The Prowess f6A 3
47 The Worp f4 3
48 Jacks Little Problem f6A+ 2
49 Marks little Problem f5 3
  MIDDLE HOPE (BOULDERING, IN NO PARTICULAR ORDER)
51 Not Another Lip Traverse! f6B+ ** 3
52 Frostbite f7A * 1
53 Pocket Rocket f7A **  
54 Zero Degrees f7C+ *  
55 Zero Degrees Sit Start
-
f7C+ ** 1
56 The Prow f7C *** 27
57 The Barrel f7C * 2
  SWALLOW CLIFF (EAST)
59 Litany Against Fear f7A+ *** 1
60 Arrakis f7C 1
61 Arrakis Direct f7C *** 1
62 Underdogs
-
E3 6a 1
63 Memento
-
E1 5c 1
64 Souvenir
-
VS 4c * 6
65 Keepsake Crack HS 4b * 2
66 A Cherry on the Top HVS 5a * 1
67 Drop a Clanger
-
E2 5b  
Climb name Grade
68 The Soup Dragon Warbles
-
E3 5c 1
69 Broad Reach
-
VS 4b  
70 Mister Fuzzy-wuz
-
E1 5b  
71 Two dogs too many D 3
72 Rugrat
-
E4 6a 1
73 Sockthing
-
E1 5a 2
74 Seven Bridges
-
E1 5a 2
75 Weston Approaches
-
HVS 5b 1
76 Jutland
-
E2 6a 1
77 Buoy Racer
-
E1 5b  
78 Jocular Banter
-
E2 6a  
79 Gay Repartee
-
E2 6a  
80 Mass Debate
-
E2 5c  
81 Leaning Difficulties
-
E2 5c  
82 Severn Bore
-
E3 5c  
83 Second Severn Crossing
-
E2 5c  
84 Psycho 2
-
E4 6c * 4
85 Sands of Time
-
E3 6a  
86 Too Big to Swallow
-
E3 6a 1
87 Then Chew on This
-
E4 6a 1
88 The Incalculable Cleft
-
E4 6b 2
89 The Incalculable Cleft (Redux) E5 6b * 1
90 Ben’s Route E5 6a * 1
91 I've Cleaned That
-
E2 6a 1
92 S'all Yours
-
E2 5c 1
93 Flute Elope
-
S * 3
94 Pipe Music
-
S * 7
95 Suggestive
-
E1 5c  
96 Ain't No Sunshine
-
HS 4b 2
  SWALLOW CLIFF (PEBBLE GULLY EAST WALL)
98 Elgar
-
VS 5a * 9
99 Helga
-
S 4c 5
100 Sterling Sea Moss
-
HVS 5c 3
101 Pomp
-
HVS 5b 5
102 Circumstance
-
E3 6a ** 2
103 Where Coral Lies
-
E6 6a 1
104 Press F to Pay Respects E1 5c 2
  SWALLOW CLIFF (PEBBLE GULLY WEST WALL ONWARDS TO FIVE RIBS)
106 Motorboat to Mars: The Re-release XS 6a ***  
107 Rasp
-
E1 5b 3
108 A Traction
-
E5 6b 1
109 Stomp
-
E1 5c 2
110 In Limestone Bed with Madonna MS 1
111 Beautiful Scars S 4a * 1
112 Like a 60 year old virgin HVD 2
113 Unapologetic Bitch D 1
114 Madonna and child VD 1
115 Madonna at 60 VD 2
116 The Side Wall Cometh * HS 4c 1
117 Romp * HS 4b 1
  Five Ribs
119 So Barry Clarke VD 3
120 In bed with a barnacle HVD 3
121 Gerstmann Rib Syndrome HS 4b 5
122 Madonna's Love Cave HS 4a * 1
123 Narrow Rib S 4a 2
124 I'm Addicted HD 1
125 Rib Swap VS 4c 2
126 Perfect Timing VS 5a 2
127 Into the Groove S 4a * 1
128 Lord of the Fries VD 1
129 Coq au Van D 5
130 Van Deeman S 4a 2
131 It's Over E4 5c 1
132 Exit through the Gift Shop HVS 4c * 2
  SWALLOW CLIFF, WEST
134 Saint Crispian M 10
Climb name Grade
135 Bob's your uncle VD 5
136 Ann Ban Croft VD 3
137 Misses Robinson D 4
138 This One Time VD 10
139 My Tea Cleft VD 6
140 Stifler's Mom VD 8
141 Band Camp HVD 5
142 Stifler's Gran VD 8
143 Trench Town E1 6a  
144 Camp Freddy VD 4
145 Doggerel D 6
146 Dogger Bank D 2
147 Mein Hund D 2
  Apex Zawn
149 Shiva's Pigeons HD * 5
150 The Mysterious Case of the Dogger in the Carpark HS 4b 5
151 Limpet Wall HS 4b 2
152 Sea Moss Garden HS 4b 6
153 Moss Tank S 4a 3
154 Kate on a hot limestone roof MS 1
155 Kate's Craic S 4a * 1
  THE POINT
157 The Belayer Wore Wellies
-
HS 4c 3
158 Quick Tug
-
HS 4b 3
159 Slow Tug HS 4c 2
160 Tug Less VD 3
161 Obi Wan M 5
162 Gin Gan S 4a 2
163 Skyfall
-
E1 5b * 5
164 Onsighting Olivia
-
E1 5b * 4
165 Occupy Sand Point HS 4b 4
166 Pillar Larva D 4
167 Micro Roofs HS 4b 3
168 Not another boulder problem HS 4b 1
169 Janitor of Lunacy D 5
170 Central Eliminate HVD 6
171 Conceived in the Sixties
-
VD 6
172 Qatar Pillar D 9
173 The Needle M 6
174 His Burden Is Light VD 7
175 The Shrimp D 8
176 Twiggy
-
S 4a 10
177 Tobruk VD 12
178 Tommy HS 4a 6
179 Mossy Crack HS 4b 2
180 Solitary Pocket S 5
181 Immediate Exposure HS 4b 1
182 Tokoloshe HS 4b 6
183 Tokamak VS 4c 10
184 Tok H S 3
185 Toto
-
D 6
186 Touroid S 7
187 Tourbillon D 7
188 Tourtoyz M 7
189 Points End Rock Climb HS 4b 7
190 Points End Eliminate VS 4c 2
191 Points End Slab HS 4b 5
192 Points End Crack M 11
193 Scurvy Linear D 10
194 Pre-Human Ideas S 4a 7
195 Points End Boulder VS 4c 5
196 Barnacle grip M 11
197 Tourettes D 3
198 Crack to the Right of Points End Rock Climb * S 4b 1
  Bouldering (other than Middle Hope)
200 Tuff Outcrop Arete Sit Start V5 6b * 3
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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