Climbs 40
Rocktype Gneiss
Altitude 788m a.s.l
Faces SE

On Garbh Bheinn after climbing the Great Ridge © Mike Pescod

Crag features

The south wall forms the upper part of the south flank of the Garbh Bheinn Great Ridge. Butterknife is the route most come to climb but there are lots of other good climbs that make the arduous approach worthwhile. Kelpie certainly seems a route to aspire to, with rave reviews from all ascensionists and there are plenty of routes at a more amenable grade to enjoy.

Approach notes

From the road follow a path by the burn to the bealach south of the summit. Turn down right to gain the left end of the wall and cross easy slabs to reach the lower level.

Guidebooks

Needs updated. While Sgian Dubh is given Vdiff in the Garry Latte Guide there is no way that this is the case. The Clasp is E1 in both SMC and Garry latter while given HVS on here. Definitely more E1 than HVS!
arose - 27/Jul/15
Needs an update. 67 routes on a wide variety of crags in the OLD Glencoe Guide!
Andy Say - 13/Oct/12
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 The Great Ridge D ** 116
2 The Great Ridge Direct
-
S * 71
3 The Great Ridge (winter)
-
III *** 3
4 The Great Gully VD  
  Lower Tier
6 Brack E3 5c *  
7 The Gralloch E2 5b *** 3
8 Scimitar
-
VS 4c ** 35
9 Razor Slash
-
S * 2
10 Leviathan E3 6a *  
11 The Golden Lance
-
E2 5c * 4
12 Butterknife HS 4b *** 144
13 Butterknife Direct Finish VS 4c *** 2
14 Bodkin
-
HVS 5a *  
15 Poniard
-
HVS 5a **  
16 Mournblade
-
VS 4b ** 8
  Upper Tier
18 The Peeler
-
HVS 5b * 9
19 Sgian Dubh
-
S ** 46
20 Sgian Dubh (winter) V 6 ** 2
21 Sala
-
HVS 5a *  
22 Menghini E1 *** 15
23 Cutlass
-
E4 6b * 2
24 Sabre
-
E5 6b **  
25 The Epeeist
-
E5 6b ***  
26 Kelpie E6 6b ***  
27 Tru-Cut
-
E3 5c *  
28 Chela
-
E3 6a  
29 The Pincer
-
E2 5b *** 31
30 The Contender
-
E3 5c ** 2
31 White Hope
-
E5 6a *** 3
32 The Clasp
-
E1 5a * 4
33 Excalibur
-
HVS 5a *** 32
34 Guenevere
-
HVS 5a ** 7

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