Climbs 40
Rocktype Gneiss
Altitude 788m a.s.l
Faces SE

On Garbh Bheinn after climbing the Great Ridge © Mike Pescod

Crag features

The south wall forms the upper part of the south flank of the Garbh Bheinn Great Ridge. Butterknife is the route most come to climb but there are lots of other good climbs that make the arduous approach worthwhile. Kelpie certainly seems a route to aspire to, with rave reviews from all ascensionists and there are plenty of routes at a more amenable grade to enjoy.

Approach notes

From the road follow a path by the burn to the bealach south of the summit. Turn down right to gain the left end of the wall and cross easy slabs to reach the lower level.


Needs updated. While Sgian Dubh is given Vdiff in the Garry Latte Guide there is no way that this is the case. The Clasp is E1 in both SMC and Garry latter while given HVS on here. Definitely more E1 than HVS!
arose - 27/Jul/15
Needs an update. 67 routes on a wide variety of crags in the OLD Glencoe Guide!
Andy Say - 13/Oct/12
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1The Great RidgeD **109
2The Great Ridge Direct
S *86
3The Great Ridge (winter)
III ***3
4The Great GullyVD  
 Lower Tier 
6BrackE3 5c * 
7The GrallochE2 5b ***2
VS 4c **35
9Razor Slash
S *2
10LeviathanE3 6a * 
11The Golden Lance
E2 5c *4
12ButterknifeHS 4b ***141
13Butterknife Direct FinishVS 4c ***2
HVS 5a * 
HVS 5a ** 
VS 4b **8
 Upper Tier 
18The Peeler
HVS 5b *8
19Sgian Dubh
S **40
20Sgian Dubh (winter)V 6 **2
HVS 5a * 
22MenghiniE1 ***18
E4 6b *2
E5 6b ** 
25The Epeeist
E5 6b *** 
26KelpieE6 6b *** 
E3 5c * 
E3 6a  
29The Pincer
E2 5b ***24
30The Contender
E3 5c **2
31White Hope
E5 6a ***3
32The Clasp
E1 5a *4
HVS 5a ***44
HVS 5a **7

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